My Best Advice for Joyous Solo Travel

Do you enjoy solo travel? I love traveling on my own and have done so ever since my first solo trip when I drove from Vancouver to New York across the United States in my twenties.

I even camped along the way, although nowadays I don’t think I’d be quite that adventurous!

While I also enjoy traveling with my husband, daughter, and friends, there’s something about solo travel that feeds my love of independent travel.

Picture of a woman wheeling a yellow suitcase over a cobbled street meant to represent a city in Europe. The text above the picture is "My Best Advice for Joyous Solo Travel".

When you travel alone, you get to go where you want to go when you want to go there. You can spend all day rushing from site to site or take the afternoon off for a nap. And after a long day of sightseeing, you can dine at restaurants that serve food your usual travel companions may not enjoy.

If you’re thinking of embarking on your first solo travel adventure, or if you’re already a seasoned independent and solo traveler, check out these solo travel tips and have a joyous solo traveling experience.

Top Solo Travel Tips a Glance

Plan Ahead for Solo Travel

When you’re traveling solo, you don’t want to risk getting into difficult situations, such as not having a place to stay or not having a backup plan.

What if your train is canceled? 

That happened to me twice during one recent trip to the UK. The first time, I just had to wait a few  hours. But the second time required me to get a hotel for the night. I had to be open to zigging when I should have been zagging! I also had to suck up the extra cost.

Sometimes, a budget is only a guideline. You never want to be in a position where you have to put saving money ahead of safety and convenience.

Have a Detailed Travel Itinerary

So, get all your ducks in a row ahead of your trip. Have a detailed itinerary stored on your phone and on paper that includes hotel addresses, places to visit, opening times, schedules, etc.

While you don’t need to over-plan, you do want to have a good sense of where you’re going and when you’re doing things.

The peace of mind will add to your enjoyment of solo travel.

Always Know Where You’re Going

Hurrah for Google maps! It’s thanks to them and SmartPhones that you can tackle a new city with confidence, and know at all times where you are geographically.

I still shudder when I remember a time in Holland back in the 1990s when I went for a walk without a map, got lost, and couldn’t find anyone who spoke English to direct me. I found my way back to the hotel–eventually–but it was a bit touch and go.

Before you go anywhere on your own, program in your route on your SmartPhone. Also make sure you have a few taxi and ride share apps installed for quick access.

And don’t go out with a phone that’s running out of battery unless you’re carrying a reliable backup battery. I speak from painful experience…!

Also take photos of your hotel that include the street number, your parking space if you’re driving, and any other landmarks you might need. When you’re traveling solo, you only have yourself to rely on so make sure you’re prepared!

Find Ways to Make Dining Alone Fun

Let’s face it, dining alone can feel a bit awkward. But it doesn’t have to. When you’re traveling solo, look for ways to enjoy dining solo.

My preference is for restaurants that are not too busy. I like a quiet atmosphere in which I can concentrate on reading or writing, and I always bring along a notebook and pen so I can jot down deep thoughts.

I also like to appreciate my surroundings and chat with servers when they are not too busy. If I’m the only solo diner in a sea of boisterous tables, I feel out of place.

If a restaurant looks too crowded for comfort, consider going elsewhere. But always, always, check restaurant reviews and pay close attention to reviews written by solo travelers.

If you’re traveling in Europe, check out my post on Happy Budget Dining.

As a solo traveler, you may be shown to a table by the kitchen or another undesirable location more often than when you’re traveling with a companion. Don’t be shy! Ask to be moved if you don’t like the table you’re offered.

Usually, you’ll be accommodated and if you’re not, well then, move on. As my granny used to say, they won’t see you again.

Engaging with Others

Enhance your experience by engaging with the servers, who are often friendly and happy to ask you where you’re from. These days, at least in Europe, most servers speak English.

Recently, at a hotel in Bristol, I got to chatting with three young servers who were all students at the university. One wanted to be a writer, so we had a great old talk when she wasn’t busy serving other customers, and she was also interested to hear about my novels.

Dining solo can lead to great interactions both with servers and sometimes fellow diners. Push yourself out of your comfort zone now and again and strike up a conversation with your neighbor.

Choose Take-out Dinners

If you can’t find a well-rated restaurant that’s quiet, then it’s take-out to the rescue! I’ve had some of my best meals sitting comfortably in my hotel room.

On a solo trip to Kauai, I had take-out pretty much every night because the restaurants were very crowded. Also, by getting take-out just before sunset, I avoided having to drive my rental car home along very dark roads.

Travel Light when Traveling Solo

When you’re traveling on your own, having easy-to-manage luggage makes for a more pleasant experience. You won’t need to ask for help getting a small carry-on and backpack on and off trains. You’ll also be able to store them easily.

Also, not all trains have sufficient storage space for large bags, unless you travel first class (see next point!).

Here are some stylish options for carry-on bags you can buy online:

Yellow hard-sided suitcase with wheels and sized for carry on.
Lime green hard-sided suitcase with wheels and sized for carry on.
Soft-sided red suitcase with wheels and sized for carry on.

Upgrade to First Class on Trains

Traveling first class if your train journey is longer than three hours is well worth the extra expense. You get more comfort and more privacy. Most first-class carriages have single-seat rows, whereas most second-class carriages have only double-seat rows.

You might end up seated next to someone whom you may not want to interact with, and those second-class seats are not roomy!

Often, the difference in price between first and second class is not as high as you might expect, particularly if you book in advance. Use Trainline to find the best deals.

Stock Up on Audiobooks

Since you want to travel light, don’t weigh yourself down with reading material. While eBooks are a great option while traveling, consider listening to audiobooks instead. Rather than focusing on a screen, you can watch the world go by while staying aware of your surroundings, which makes for a safer journey.

Take along two or three sets of earphones, at least one of which doesn’t need charging. When you’re riding or waiting for transit, standing in line at a museum, or just wanting to tune out the busy world around you, pop in your earphones and enjoy a few chapters of an audiobook.

I recommend listening to books set in the region you’re traveling through.

While riding a bus from Delphi to Athens on a recent trip to Greece, I listened to Glorious Exploits by Ferdia Lennon, which is about Greek theater in the ancient world. Seeing a landscape go by that was very similar to what was described really brought the novel to life.

Intrigued? Check out my interview with Ferdia Lennon about Glorious Exploits on The Art In Fiction Podcast.

Audiobook Suggestions

Here are some options for great audiobooks to enjoy while traveling in Italy, France, and Spain.

Cover of The Towers of Tuscany by Carol M. Cram (also known as the Artsy Traveler). A medieval painting of a woman in a blue head covering appears above the skyline of San Gimignano in Tuscany.
Book cover of The Paris Hours by Alex George. Against a green background, a staircase winds up. A woman dressed in 1920s attire is walking down the staircase.
Book cover of The Return by Victoria Hislop. A young woman is in the foregraound. She has a red rose behind her ear. Behind her and blurred is the figure of a man dressed in 1930s attire walking towards her.

Take Walking and Small Group Tours 

You are quite likely to meet other solo travelers when you take a walking or a small group tour. And if you’d rather not engage, you can enjoy simply listening to the tour guide as opposed to worrying that your companion is getting bored or tired.

If you get bored or tired, well, that’s okay because you only have yourself to please!

Walking Tours

A great place to find walking tours led by enthusiastic locals is GuruWalk. Many of the guides specialize in specific interests. In Bath, the guide was enthusiastic about architecture, while in Athens, the guide loved sharing his extensive knowledge of ancient history.

Here are some GuruWalks to check out in Paris.

You can also sign up for guided tours in museums. Led by curators and usually free, these tours are almost always very informative and provide a more in-depth understanding of the exhibits than you may get on your own.

Guided Day Tours

I typically don’t rent a car when I’m traveling solo. Even with GPS, navigating can be a challenge, especially in Europe and the UK where the traffic, not to mention parking, is frequently horrendous.

The easiest and safest way to see the local countryside is to take small group day tours.

You can read about my tour of the Cotswolds and the two day tours I took to explore Yorkshire during a solo trip to England.

Choose tours that don’t involve long commutes to get to the destination. For example, instead of taking a tour of the Cotswolds that embarks from London, spend a night or two in Oxford, Bath or Stratford-upon-Avon and then pick up a tour from there.

You’ll spend most of your day joyriding around the Cotswolds rather than spending two hours each way on the motorway.

If you’re looking to meet new people while traveling, a day tour may be just the ticket.

Multi-Day Tours

You may also wish to take the occasional multi-day tour when you’re traveling solo. Recently, I took a four-day tour around Southwest England with Rabbie’s Tours. Only four other people were on the 16-seat bus so there was lots of room to stretch out!

While these tours can be a bit exhausting, they can also be a great way to meet people if you’re so inclined. You also cover a lot of ground efficiently and see hidden corners you might miss if traveling by train.

To find good tours, check GetYourGuide and Tiqets.com. Here are a few options in Germany, France, and Italy from GetYourGuide.

Powered by GetYourGuide

Enjoy Solitary Museum-Going

While sharing a museum visit with a companion is great, you can have just as much fun on your own. You can linger for as long as you want in front of an exhibit or walk quickly through galleries that don’t interest you.

You also have the time and space to indulge your imagination to the full.

On a recent visit to London’s National Gallery, I swooned in solitary joy before my favorite masterpieces. It was glorious!

I also enjoy listening to audio guides—an inherently anti-social pursuit. When you’re traveling with someone who doesn’t enjoy audio guides, you may decide to forgo getting one yourself.

When you travel alone, you can do what you want!

Choose a Double Room When Solo Traveling

You may be disappointed if you opt for a single room instead of a double room, particularly in small B & Bs and budget hotels where single rooms are often little more than closets.

The savings in cost between a single room and a double room may not be worth the often significant reduction in space.

Book a double room and enjoy more space and a larger bed.

A Note About Single Supplements

If you’re taking a guided tour, you may be required to pay a single supplement, especially if the tour includes accommodation. To avoid this extra cost, look for tours that do not include accommodation and instead, allow you to make your own arrangements.

While large group bus tours will typically not allow this, some small group tour companies will. For example, with Rabbie’s Tours, I was not charged a single supplement.

I booked my own accommodations and then told the company the names of the hotels so the driver could drop me off every evening and pick me up the next morning. I avoided paying a single supplement and was able to choose double rooms in the places I stayed. Win-win.

Take Taxis and Rideshares

Don’t stint on transportation when you’re traveling solo. If taking a bus or subway is an easy and safe option, then go for it. But if not, choose taxis or rideshares, or better yet, private transfers. You get door-to-door service and avoid long walks through underground tunnels or hanging out in potentially dodgy areas waiting for a bus.

I’m booking private transfers through companies such as Welcome Pickups more frequently than I used to. I get picked up at my location and the driver often doubles as a tour guide. Private transfers are more expensive than trains and even taxis, but for peace of mind and comfort, they can’t be beat.

Keep Your Valuables Close

The current fashion for cross-body bags is good news for solo travelers. While they may not be chic, they are extremely practical.

Over the years, I’ve carried many different kinds of bags while traveling, and my small cross-body bag is my favorite. It fits my passport, phone, sunglasses, and a small wallet containing a bank card, two Visa cards, my driver’s license, and my travel insurance card. I always safety-pin the wallet to the lining of the bag so it can never fall out.

Once, while wearing my cross-body bag, I went into a purse store in Paris in search of something a little nicer to carry while dining out.

The salesperson raised her eyebrows at my scuffed bag and intoned “Ce n’est pas chic.”

Right she was, but there’s a time for being chic and a time for being safe. When you’re traveling solo, the practical cross-body bag is your best choice.

Here are some good cross-body bag options.

A white t-shirt with a black cross-body bag over one shoulder and across the chest. To the right are four cross-body bags in four colors: black, dark grey, light grey, and pink.
Close-up of a pale purple cross-body bag.

Valuables on the Beach

What do you do when you’re alone in a foreign country and your travels take you to the beach? Obviously, leaving your valuables on your towel, even if cunningly covered with a T-shirt, is not wise.

Instead, bring along a waterproof pouch designed to snugly fit a phone, car keys, your ID, and a small wallet. You can then be 100% sure your valuables are safe while you enjoy bobbing in solitary splendor.

two waterproof pouches. The pouch on the left contains a watch and a SmartPhone. The pouch on the right contains a passport, cash, and credit cards.

Connect with Others—Or Not

I confess that I’m wary of strangers when traveling solo. While I’m always super friendly with service people in restaurants and hotels, I don’t engage much with others, particularly if they strike me as overly friendly.

If you’re worried you may get lonely, join a walking or small group tour and chat with the other participants. This level of interaction may be enough to keep you from feeling isolated on the road.

When I was younger, I easily met fellow travelers at youth hostels, but now when I stay in hotels, opportunities for making new friends are limited. That suits me fine. But if it doesn’t suit you, then find ways to step out of your shell to meet people.

Sign up for a cooking class and learn to make the local food (I love cooking classes!). Or maybe find a meetup group of people who share your interests (crocheters in Catalonia, perhaps, or ex-pat writers in Warsaw).

Thanks to the Internet, there are no end of opportunities for finding like-minded people. Just make sure any meetings take place in public places with plenty of people around.

I believe that one of the keys to success as a solo traveler is to embrace the solitude, to enjoy your own company, and to always look for ways in which to deepen your solo experience through appreciation of the sites, the landscapes, and the passing parade of humanity.

Put Safety First when Traveling Solo

The best tip for any solo traveler is to prioritize safety above all else. You never want to compromise your safety to save money. A twenty-minute walk to your hotel through dark streets in an unfamiliar town may be free, but it may also be dangerous.

If you can take a taxi, then do so. If you can’t, walk quickly and look purposeful. As mentioned above, plot your route before you set out so you’re not staring at a phone screen rather than paying attention to your surroundings.

You never want to look like a wide-eyed tourist who doesn’t know where she’s going.

And let’s face it, the proliferation of smartphones makes solo travel much less solitary than it once was.

You can be walking along a beach in Brighton and have a conversation with your significant other who is 10,000 miles away on another continent, or you can post your activities on social media and in moments have plenty of people to chat with, albeit digitally.

Safety Check

Avoid posting in ‘real time’ when you’re traveling or eating/staying at a particular restaurant, bar or hotel. You can share your experiences with friends and family privately, but save public social media posts for when you’re back home or have moved on to a new travel destination.

When I drove from Vancouver to New York across the United States in the 1980s, I spoke to my family once a week from a pay phone, read from my stash of paperback books, and did a lot of solitary staring at the landscape.

While it’s apples and oranges to compare then with now, the one constant is that solo traveling can lead you to many joyous experiences when you plan well and stay open to seeing and learning new things.

Conclusion

Traveling solo makes you self-reliant and gives you confidence. I like keeping my wits sharp as I make my way on and off trains, check into hotels, find the right meeting area for a tour, stay safe on the road, keep myself well fed and watered, and interact with people safely.

Are you planning your next solo adventure–or your first? What’s your best advice for traveling on your own? Share your tips for solo travel and thoughts in the Comments below.

Carol Cram in front of a statue of King Arthur at Tintagel in Cornwall, England.

Get the Best Out of Southwest England on a Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

Consider taking a Rabbie’s small group tour of Southwest England to discover one of England’s most beautiful (and visited) regions.

When I travel on my own, I often take small group tours so I can efficiently explore local sites. Usually, I opt for day tours (see my posts about tours in the Cotswolds and Yorkshire).

But on a recent, longer trip to the UK, I chose a four-day, three-night small group tour of Devon and Cornwall with Rabbie’s Tours.

Graphic swith the text "Rabbie's Small Group Tour Southern England" over a picture of Durdle Door on the south coast of England in Dorset.

Based in Edinburgh, Scotland, Rabbie’s operates dozens of tours throughout the United Kingdom and Europe. Their reviews are excellent and the prices reasonable. I figured I couldn’t lose—and I was right. In this post, I present a day-by-day account of what I experienced on my four-day, three-night Rabbie’s small group tour, starting in Bristol.

Spoiler Alert: I cheerfully recommend a Rabbie’s small group tour, particularly if your time is limited.

Map of Southwest England: Locations Visited

The map of Southwest England below shows the locations I visited. I stayed in Falmouth (#5) for two nights and Exeter (#23) for one night. Click a number to read more about the location.

Setting Off on a Rabbie’s Small Group Tour of Southwest England

Bright and early at 8:00 am on September 1, I’m out front of the Doubletree Hilton Hotel in Bristol (#22 on the map), where I meet the first two people I’ll be touring with, a couple from Virginia in the US.

They tell me this will be their fourth Rabbie’s small group tour. This bodes well since they have only positive things to say about the tours they’ve taken to Wales and Scotland.

We board and soon stake out our personal space for the next four days. With the entire 16-seat van at our disposal, we each have our own row. It’s delightful to spread out across two seats with another across the aisle rather than having to share the admittedly narrow seats with a stranger for four days.

Matt, a guide with Rabbie’s Tours, in front of his van for the multi-day Southwest England tour
Matt, our guide and driver

Day 1: Somerset to Cornwall on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour of Southwest England

We pull away from the hotel and head out of Bristol. I settle into my seat and listen to Matt when he’s talking and then think when he’s not.

Notebook open and pen at the ready, I alternate between jotting down notes about what we’re seeing and planning two new novels.

Matt reviews our itinerary for the day. We’ll travel west from Bristol along the north coast of Somerset, across Exmoor in Devon and then angle southwest to Falmouth on the south coast of Cornwall—our home base for two of the three nights.

He uses arrow stickies to show our route on the large map of southern England pinned above the front window.

Map of England showing the Southwest Rabbie’s Tour
Map with stickies showing our route on days 3 and 4 of the Rabbie’s Small Group Tour of Southwest England

Over the next four days, I’ll enjoy studying the map not only to follow our route but also to remember many of the places I visited when I lived in England back in the 1970s.

First Stop on the Rabbie’s Small Group Tour: Dunster in Somerset

Dunster (#1) is the home of the impressive Dunster Castle that we can only admire from afar. Since on Day 1 we must cover 225 miles, with a long stop at Tintagel, we only have time for a quick stop to wander Dunster’s sweet main street and grab a quick coffee.

Main street in the town of Dunster on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Charming town of Dunster in Somerset

Lined with gift shops and restaurants, the street is as quaint as one would expect a Somerset village street to be. Most stores are closed since it’s still early, which is just as well. I need to carefully monitor my shopping if only because I’m traveling with a small carry-on and don’t have a spare centimeter for extra stuff.

On the Road to Lynmouth on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

After Dunster, we travel on from Somerset into Devon. Along the way, we scale the 25% grade road (that’s really steep) that leads up from Porlock on the coast into Exmoor National Park and down the other side to the seaside town of Lynmouth (#2).

The views at the top are probably magnificent, but we need to take Matt’s word for it. The mist has rolled in, and the view is soft and gray with hints of heather and gorse.

It’s still beautiful in an atmospheric kind of way, and we do spot several wild horses.

Misty view of Exmoor on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Misty Exmoor
Wild Horses on Exmoor on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Wild Exmoor horses

Lunch in Lynmouth

We stop for an hour in Lynmouth, which is just long enough for me to walk from the car park to the harbor, get a takeout lunch of fish and chips, do a spot of window shopping, and pop into the Memorial Hall that documents two seminal events in Lynmouth’s history.

I eat my ridiculously large serving of fish and chips on the pier overlooking the placid sea. The weather continues to be gray and dull, but the air is warm, and the streets of Lynmouth are still full of holidaymakers.

Lynmouth Harbour on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Lynmouth Harbour

Flood of 1952

After lunch, I check out the Memorial Hall where I learn about the devastating flood of 1952 when over nine inches of rain fell in a very short time, resulting in a landslide that buried half the town and killed 34 people in the wider area, 28 of them in Lynmouth. The excellent exhibit in the Memorial Hall includes several blown-up photographs that show the devastation, a well put together and sobering memorial.

Flood Damage in Lynmouth Harbour on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Flood damage in Lynmouth

Rescue of the Forrest Hall

Lynmouth is also famous for a daring rescue undertaken in 1899 by local townspeople. When a ship called the Forrest Hall foundered off Porlock Weir—the town we’d just driven through on our way to Lynmouth—the seas were so rough that local fishermen couldn’t even attempt a rescue.

Rather than allow the people to perish, the intrepid fisherman of Lynmouth hauled a lifeboat called the Louisa up and over the extremely steep road we’d just traversed. The Memorial Hall includes a display of photographs about the rescue and its re-creation on the 100th anniversary in 1999.

On our way out of town, Matt plays us a song written to commemorate the rescue. The jaunty tune gets stuck in my head for hours.

Visit to Tintagel on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

A lot of driving takes us across Devon and into Cornwall, finally ending at Tintagel (#3), the highlight destination of the day. The main attraction here is Tintagel Castle, a windswept ruin perched atop a craggy island on the rugged Cornish coast.

Was it the home of King Arthur? No. But that doesn’t stop the makers of souvenirs from exploiting Arthur at every turn.

Tourist shops line Tintagel’s main street leading to the long walkway to the castle. It’s colorful and tacky and crowded, although Matt tells us it’s quiet compared to what it’s like on Bank Holiday weekends.

Crossing the Bridge to Tintagel Castle

We start the trek down a very steep hill to the entrance to the castle. The word “castle” is used loosely. Folks expecgting to see a castle at Tintagel Castle (#4) will be disappointed. What you will see is an extremely dramatic setting, a very cool bridge linking the mainland to the island, and a smattering of crumbling stone walls—some quite large, most not.

Come prepared to walk and climb. A visit to Tintagel Castle requires a lot of walking, much of it over quite rough ground and up and down steep steps.

Getting to the island is almost as fun as climbing around it. A new bridge spans the gap between the mainland and the island. An open space of about four inches in the middle of the bridge allows for expansion and contraction during the often-ferocious weather that sweeps in from the Atlantic. The bridge to the ruins is sometimes closed and access cut off.

Tintagel Bridge on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Tintagel Bridge

Exploring Tintagel Ruins

As I wander around the ruins, I try to imagine what the castle looked like back in the day. I can’t really picture it, but I do feel a sense of kinship with the early inhabitants. The view of the rugged Cornish coastline stretching to the east and west will not have changed. And if Arthur had hung out here, he’d have looked up at the same massive expanse of sky and felt the same fresh wind.

View from Tintagel Island on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
View from Tintagel Island

The large site swarms with people but doesn’t feel crowded. The castle has been rebuilt several times over the centuries because the walls keep crumbling in the elements.  Hardly surprising. Bonus points for trying to build in such an inhospitable location, but in the end, nature wins.

I take a LOT of pictures.

Back to Tintagel

After exploring the island, I descend an extremely precipitous set of stairs to the bridge. I have a choice. I can either walk back up a very steep hill, which is the way I came, or I can continue down to a road and catch a Land Rover back up to the car park.

The one-way trip costs ₤2.50—a bargain, particularly because all the up-and-down climbing has inflamed my arthritic knee. To be honest, it’s screaming.

Steps down from Tintagel Castle on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Tintagel Steps

Old Post Office in Tintagel

Back in Tintagel, I discover the fabulous old post office—a National Trust property that draws me like a magnet. The ancient building dates from the 14th century. I gleefully explore the rooms, with their massive wooden beams, uneven floors, and white plaster walls.

I’m a sucker for old houses, particularly one this old. I know it’s been restored and likely doesn’t look like it did back in the day, but my imagination goes into overdrive, nonetheless.

The thick walls and tiny windows would keep in the heat but at the cost of light. It must have been very gloomy, particularly at night with light provided by only a few guttering candles.

Tintagel Post Office on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Old Post Office in Tintagel

In the beautiful English garden behind the old post office, I chat with one of the National Trust guides about history and my novels. She’s lovely!

The Tintagel Old Post Office is open every day, with visiting hours from 10:30 to 17:30.

Rum in Tintagel

Before boarding the bus, I stop in at a place that sells local gin and rum. The shopkeeper is very accommodating. He describes the impressive range of rum-flavored spirits. I buy a small bottle of cinnamon flavored rum which I take a tipple of later in my room. It’s delicious; I wish I’d bought more!

Rum and gin shop in Tintagel on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
The Rum and Gin Shop in Tintagel

Dinner in Falmouth

The first and second nights of the tour are spent in the Cornish town of Falmouth (#5) on the south coast. I’ve chosen the Lerryn Hotel—a large guest house overlooking the sea. My room is spacious and comfortable and the breakfast on both mornings is very tasty. I opt for smoked salmon and scrambled eggs on day 1 and porridge with cream and honey on day 2.

After getting settled, I walk down the hill to the harbor in search of a restaurant. I pass the Maritime Museum (#6)—a modern  building that looks very intriguing and advertises an exhibition about pirates which, alas, I will miss. On both of our nights in Falmouth, we arrive back long after the museum has closed and leave both mornings before it opens.

Maritime Museum in Falmouth on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Maritime Museum in Falmouth
A General Note About Guided Tours

One drawback of a guided tour is that you’re at the mercy of someone else’s schedule. If the itinerary doesn’t include something you want to see, then you’re out of luck. You must decide if the convenience of a tour is worth the lack of flexibility. Because I’m traveling on my own and don’t want to drive, taking a tour makes sense. Hopefully one day I’ll return and do a driving holiday. There is a LOT to see in this part of the world.

Dinner at The Hub in Falmouth is excellent: a dressed crab salad with lovely fresh bread and salad, and a large glass of Pino Grigio.

After dinner, I meet up with the American couple who are dining close by and walk back to the hotel. They are staying around the corner, and I’m grateful for the company in the darkness.

A note about accommodation on a Rabbie’s tour. You can choose the level of accommodation you want, and they will book appropriate places, or you can book them yourself. I can recommend both The Lerryn in Falmouth and Leonardo Hotel Exeter, which is a cookie-cutter chain hotel, but very comfortable with excellent food.

Day 2: All Day in Cornwall on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour of Southwest England

The next morning dawns soft and mizzly, with the sky and the sea meeting in a single sheet of gray. But the air is fresh and the seagulls loud, and I’m excited to explore this scenic corner of Cornwall. Matt has promised us a full day of sightseeing with short drives.

Visit to Porthleven on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

Our first stop is the seaside town of Porthleven (#7) which is apparently a mecca for foodies. Matt tells us about a terrible storm many years ago during which the sea surged into the sheltered harbor and swept a police car right off the pier, killing both police officers inside.

I snap a photo of the warning sign that greets us at the start of the pier.

Warning sign on Porthleven pier on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Warning sign on Porthleven Pier

The pier is open and empty in the rain. It’s a spectacular setting even in the gray and the wet.

We stop at a coffee roastery to sample some locally roasted coffee. The roastery is a happening place with lots of employees bustling around the facility visible through large windows in the café area.

Minack Theatre on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

At 11:30, we have a reservation to view Minack Theatre (#8). This place is a revelation. I’d never heard of it and so was delighted to discover a multi-level series of turf-covered benches stretching from the edge of a clif sea up a steep hill.

Minack Theatre is the creation of the indomitable Rowena Cade after she saw an open-air production of A Midsummer Night’s Dream in the 1920s. She offered her cliffside garden for staging performances and almost 100 years later people are still coming to this dramatic setting to enjoy live theater.

View of Minack Theatre on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Minack Theater

I go into the exhibition center to watch a film about the origins of the theatre and am particularly interested in the interviews with various performers about the challenges of performing in a theater open to the elements—wind, rain, cold, sun.

Occasionally, the weather is so bad that the theatre has to be closed and the performances cancelled.

One of the highlights of the site is the plethora of exotic succulents in all sorts of twisty shapes. I can’t stop snapping pictures!

If I ever travel again to Cornwall—preferably under my own steam—I’ll definitely book tickets for a performance at Minack Theatre. Talk about an Artsy Traveler experience!

Land’s End

A short drive takes us from Minack Theatre to Land’s End (#9). The last time I visited Land’s End was in 1974 when, at age18, I traveled with two friends all around Britain. Somewhere in a box is a picture of the three of us at the Land’s End signpost.

I remember the place as windswept and pretty much empty apart from maybe an ice cream truck.

View of Land’s End on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Land’s End

That’s all changed now. A theme park franchise has taken over the area and made it horrendously commercial. Fortunately, no amount of tackiness can detract from the stunning view of rocks and ocean that awaits you once you’ve threaded the gauntlet of souvenir stores and fast-food joints along with a bunch of weird, out-of-context attractions.

Now, you’ll pay ₤10.99 to have your picture taken next to a signpost on which an attendant affixes letters designating your home town and its distance from Land’s End.

Needless to say, I decline.

Tin Mines of Botallack

This stretch of Cornish coastline is known as the Tin Coast and was home to numerous tin mines, the vestiges of which are still visible. The Tin Coast has been the site of mining for over 2,000 years, with the industry peaking during the Industrial Revolution when the demand for tin was high.

At Botallack (#10), we stop to view the ruins of several mines and walk out to the cliff. The word bleak comes to mind, perhaps because it’s gray and rainy, but more so because I can’t help thinking how horrific life must have been for the miners.

View of ruined tin mine at Botallack on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Ruins of a tin mine at Botallack

Many of the mines extend hundreds of meters out to sea and hundreds of meters below the seabed. I shudder to think of how claustrophobic the conditions must have been and how many of the workers died.

St. Ives on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

The major destination for Day 2 is the seaside town of St. Ives (#11). One of its many claims to fame is its association with several prominent 20th century artists, including Barbara Hepworth.

Tate St. Ives

Matt drops us right in front of the Tate St. Ives. I hadn’t realized there was a Tate here, so imagine my delight! I make it my first stop. The beautiful building houses ten galleries filled mostly with post-war abstract art along with a special exhibition of the very colorful work of Beatriz Milhazes.

I arrive in Gallery 1 in time to hear a short talk by one of the curators about Robert Lanyon, an artist I had never heard of. Unlike most of the artists who flocked to St. Ives throughout the 20th century,

Robert Lanyon was born in St. Ives. He was also a foremost proponent of post-war abstract art. The curator tells us that St. Ives was attractive to artists such as Barbara Hepworth and others because of the beauty of its light and the landscape.

He emphasizes three words: abstraction, light, and landscape.

Commentary on Porthleven by Peter Lanyon

The curator presents a lively commentary of a work called Porthleven by Peter Lanyon. The large, powerful work was Lanyon’s contribution as one of sixty artists chosen to represent Britain at the Festival of Britain in 1951. I’d heard about the Festival at the Museum of English Rural Life a few days earlier. Funny how you can go a lifetime never hearing about something and then suddenly hear about it twice in three days.

The piece is a multi-layered depiction of Porthleven, where we’d visited that morning. The curator’s explanation really brought the painting to life. Apparently, David Bowie was a big collector of Lanyon’s work. He said his work may not be the most beautiful in his collection, but they were the pieces he looked at the most.

Porthleven by Peter Lanyon at the Tate St. Ives on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest
Porthleven by Peter Lanyon

Touring the Tate St. Ives

After the short talk, I tour the various galleries and get pleasantly lost in a reverie of art appreciation. Here are three of my favorite pieces.

Waterfall by Arshile Gorky at the Tate St. Ives
Waterfall by Arshile Gorky

L’Étang de Trivaux by Henri Matisse at the Tate St. Ives
L’Étang de Trivaux by Henri Matisse

Nives II by Victor Vasarely at the Tate St. Ives
Nives II by Victor Vasarely

Commentary on Lost Mine by Peter Lanyon

I finish my swing through the galleries in time to catch a second talk about Peter Lanyon by the same curator. Thankfully, there is seating for this talk. My knee is tender after yesterday’s hike around Tintagel and I sink gratefully onto a bench to listen.

The curator describes a piece called Lost Mine that depicts a tin mining disaster. Since I’d only just visited the remains of the tin mines at Botallack, viewing the painting felt particularly relevant.

The curator describes what I’d suspected when viewing the tin mines—the dreadful conditions the miners endured to extract tin and copper from under the sea. Some of the shafts went 400 meters into the seabed and then a mile out to sea. When there was a flood—an inundation as it was called—there was no way out. Deaths were alarmingly common in an age when safety standards were unknown.

Lanyon’s visual depiction of a mining disaster is visceral and immediate. The curator’s description of the various elements make sense of the painting and reveal Lanyon’s skill.

Lost Mine by Peter Lanyon at the Tate St. Ives

Lost Mine by Peter Lanyon

Exploring St. Ives

After touring the Tate, I mosey into the main center of St. Ives, a pleasing warren of narrow streets and alleys. The main street is lined with shops—gifts and food and art. But unlike some of the places I’ve visited so far in Cornwall, most of the shops feature locally made art and gift items rather than imported tat.

At the end of the street, I discover that St. Ives is a peninsula, with the ocean on one side where the Tate is and a beautiful harbor on the other. Surfers ride the waves on the ocean side, and boats bob serenely on the harbor side.

It really is picture perfect. No wonder the place is mobbed. It would be wonderful to come here off-season—rent a house overlooking the water and write. I wouldn’t be the first author to have done so! As a child, Virginia Woolf lived here in Talland House, which is the title of a novel inspired by Woolf by author Maggie Humm. I interviewed Maggie about Talland House and its connection to St. Ives for The Art In Fiction Podcast.

I see signs to Barbara Hepworth’s studio and garden, but I decide I don’t have time for a visit. At least I have even more incentive to return to St. Ives.

Back to Falmouth

After St. Ives, we head back to Falmouth. It’s been a long day and I’m happy to pick up a takeaway dinner to eat in my room. Before darkness falls, I stroll along the sea front to admire the view and listen to the constant cawing of the seagulls. Falmouth seems like a very pleasant town and I’m sorry there’s not more time to explore it.

Day 3: Cornwall to Devon on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour of Southwest England

The sun decides to come out as we leave Falmouth and the Cornish coast and drive inland across the sunlit patchwork of green that is central Cornwall. Huge clouds fill the big sky, and everyone is in good spirits.

Our small group is easy to deal with, which I’m sure is a relief for Matt, and makes for a tranquil tour for me. Everyone returns to the bus on time, and no one has any complaints.

Jamaica Inn on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

The first stop of the day is the Jamaica Inn (#12), made famous by Daphne du Maurier. When she and a friend were lost in the fog, their horses led them to the inn. As a result, du Maurier wrote her famous novel Jamaica Inn. Several films and a TV series have been filmed here.

I’m looking forward to touring the museum, but, alas, I can’t find it in the warren of rooms all serving food. Basically, Jamaica Inn is a restaurant and gift shop attracting coach tours. I do, however, buy a novel by Daphne du Maurier because I’ve never actually read any of her work.

Traversing Bodmin Moor

In the sunlight, the gorse and heather and cows and towering clouds in a wide sky above Bodmin Moor (#13) captivate my imagination. We’re on our way across the moor to the tiny town of Minions where there is an ancient stone circle. But first, a quick stop to get acquainted with some lovely Cornish hairy cows.

Hairy cow on Bodmin Moor
A hairy cow on Bodmin Moor

Matt skillfully drives us along narrow roads with densely packed hedgerows on either side. He tells us that the foliage masks stone walls just waiting to dent passing cars.

We stop in a sylvan dell to view an ancient bridge, called a carriage bridge, that includes outdents to allow vehicles to pass. Matt leads us in a quick game of Pooh Sticks. Mine emerges from under the bridge in third place.

I love this stop! There are no visitors or ice cream trucks in sight; it’s just the six of us in a forest with the smell of vegetation on the brink of decay—the smell of summer ending.

The Minions

We drive on into Dartmoor en route to the tiny town of Minions (#14). Apparently, the town sign is often pinched thanks to the popularity of the Minions movies. Our destination is the Hurler Stones—an ancient stone circle set atop the windy moor.

I do love a good stone circle and this one is impressive.

Carol at a stone circle on Dartmoor
One of the stones in the Hurlers Stone Circle

The stone circle is named The Hurlers because in olden times, a group of men dared to play hurling on the Sabbath. To punish them, the devil rose from hell and turned them to stone.

The true origins of the stone circles (there are three of them) is not known, but they are definitely very old.

As we walk up to the stones, we need to watch every step to avoid many still-steaming contributions by horses, sheep, and cows.

Lunch Stop in Tavistock on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

We stop for lunch stop in Tavistock (#15), a pleasant little town. I have just enough time to grab a quick lunch—a chicken, bacon, and leek Cornish pasty (excellent) — and check out the indoor market that mostly features antiques.

The American woman on the tour is into antiquing. I run into her outside and tell her she must go in and take a look. With ten minutes to spare before the bus leaves, she manages to make two purchases—an antique lace doll’s dress and an antique doll also dressed in handmade lace. I’m impressed by her power shopping!

Tavistock on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
A street in Tavistock

Cream Tea

On our way to Haytor on Dartmoor—one of the day’s highlights—we stop at a café to enjoy a proper Devon cream tea. Although I’m full from my pasty at lunch, I can’t pass up the opportunity to slather jam and clotted cream on a freshly baked scone!

Devon cream tea on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Cream tea

Visit To Haytor on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

Dartmoor is littered with tors—granite outcroppings that rise above the moor. The most famous, and one of the largest, is Haytor (#16). We are lucky that the weather is glorious for our ascent from the parking lot past grazing wild horses to the base of Haytor.

It is possible to climb to the very top of the grainite tor, but I content myself with enjoying the 360-degree views from the base. It’s pretty dang magnificent.

Here’s a 360-degree video taken from the base of Haytor.

And here are just a few of the many photos I snapped while enjoying Haytor—one of the highlights of the entire Southwest Tour.

Day 4: Devon to Dorset on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour of Southwest England

It’s the final day of our four-day tour of the Southwest. Our mission today is to check out the Dorset coast and then Stonehenge before returning to Bristol.

Lyme Regis on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

Our first stop is Lyme Regis (#17), known as the pearl of Dorset. Matt drops us at the bottom of the steep main street. I have just an hour and must make a choice. Either I go left to explore the museum or right to walk along the shingled beach to the Cobb, made famous in Jane Austen’s Persuasion. Years ago, I visited the Cobb and so I choose left.

Lyme Regis Museum

The Lyme Regis Museum (#18) is packed full of interesting artifacts and fossils, in keeping with Lyme Regis’s reputation as fossil central. Several displays document the life of the indomitable Mary Anning. Born in 1799, Mary became known internationally for her discoveries of Jurassic marine fossil beds at Lyme Regis. Her findings contributed to changes in scientific thinking about prehistoric life and the history of Earth. Go Mary!

She’s been the subject of novels and films, including Remarkable Creatures by author Tracy Chevalier.

Display of fossils in the Lyme Regis Museum
Fossils at the Lyme Regis Museum

Strolling Lyme Regis

After leaving the museum, I stroll a little way along the beach towards the Cobb. Despite the shops and the crowds, the main street leading down to the water still feels ancient. It’s easy to imagine Anne Elliott from Persuasion strolling along the beachfront.

Lyme Regis on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
View of Lyme Regis

Hiking Down to Durdle Door on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

Another hour on the road takes us to Durdle Door (#19) in Dorset. Last night, Matt asked each of us to supply him with the titles of three or four of our favorite songs. During the drive, he plays all our songs. It’s an eclectic mix including some smooth and jazzy Brazilian music, When I’m 64 by The Beatles, a track by Taylor Swift, various country and rock cuts, and my own contributions—Carole King, Simon & Garfunkel, and Rod Stewart.

At Durdle Door, I’m faced with a very steep walk down and back. My poor knee is not happy, but I ignore the pain and set off. Unfortunately, Durdle Door is not visible from the car park so in order to get some photos and enjoy the stunning views, I need to walk.

View near Durdle Door on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
View of the beach at Durdle Door

Durdle Door on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
View of Durdle Door

Carol Cram in front of Durdle Door on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Carol at Durdle Door

Lulworth on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

The little village of Lulworth (#20) is an easy downhill walk from Durdle Door. We drive there, park, and walk down the single street to the cove. There really isn’t a whole lot to do except walk down to the cove, look at the cove, buy lunch, eat it on the beach while looing the cove, walk back from the cove, and then buy a fridge magnet depicting Durdle Door.

Lulworth Cove on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
View of Lulworth Cove

Stonehenge on Rabbie’s Small Group Tour

Our final stop of the day—and of the four-day tour—is Stonehenge (#21), where we will be five of the one million visitors who check out this massive stone circle every year. I’ve visited Stonehenge a few times over the years and seen quite the evolution.

Back in the 1970s, I was able to walk right up to the stones, touch them and pose on them. Such free access was curtailed in the 1990s because of damage being caused to the stones. When I visited in 2001, I bought my tickets at a pokey kiosk next to the parking lot, walked a fair distance to the stones, walked around the stones, walked back, and that was about it. I don’t even think there was a gift shop.

Well, welcome to 2024! The visitor experience has been transformed into a slickly managed sequence of carefully orchestrated activities. After getting tickets (Matt takes care of this for us), we are fitted with paper bracelets that include a QR Code. I scan the code and download the audio guide, which provides a worthwhile commentary of the Stonehenge Experience.

Shuttling to Stonehenge

I board a shuttle bus for the five-minute ride to the stone circle and begin the circumnavigation to view it from every angle. Although I’ve seen Stonehenge before, I still find it impressive. Who built it? Why? How?

Carol Cram in front of Stonehenge on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Carol at Stonehenge

I snap plenty of pictures. Even though the site is full of visitors, it doesn’t feel overwhelming, perhaps because the stone circle itself is empty. It’s easy to get atmospheric shots that evoke the ancient past without including other visitors.

View of Stonehenge on a Rabbie’s tour of southwest England
Stonehenge

After getting my Stonehenge fix to last me another decade or two, I take the shuttle bus back to the stylish Visitor Centre. The small exhibition is high-tech and interesting and includes re-creations of the types of houses that the people who built Stonehenge may have lived in.

And finally, I enter the giftshop—the largest I’ve seen on this trip, and that’s saying something! It’s remarkable how many Stonehenge-themed items are on display, from sweatshirts to water bottles to socks and a lot, lot more. I resist buying yet another fridge magnet.

Onwards Back to Bristol

We’re back on the bus for the last time. The trip west to Bristol (#22) takes longer than expected thanks to traffic but I don’t mind. I’m enjoying looking out the window and thinking about the past four days.

For me, the highlights of the tour were the opportunities to walk in the countryside at sites such as Tintagel, Haytor, and Durdle Door, and visits to museums like the Tate St. Ives and the Lyme Regis Museum. I could have skipped Lulworth, Land’s End, and Jamaica Inn in favor of more opportunities to be in the countryside. However, a guided tour must make choices and people do need to be fed and have access to toilets.

Conclusion

Thank you to Rabbie’s Tours for a memorable four days. I recommend the tour for travelers who don’t want to drive and want to pack in as many sites as possible in a short period without sacrificing some memorable experiences. Kudos to our guide, Matt, for his patience and good humor.

Have you taken a Rabbie’s Tour? Share your comments and suggestions in the comments below.

Carol Cram on the beach looking joyous

Top Ten Ways to Joyously Experience Traveling in Europe

In the aftermath of the pandemic, everyone and their cousin who wants to travel and can travel is heading for Europe. Recently, Italy was named the number one tourist destination in the world, with France close behind. Many destinations are full to bursting with visitors, which means sold-out accommodations, packed beaches, and museums filled to the rafters.

Some communities, such as Barcelona and Malaga in Spain, and Santorini in Greece, have even launched campaigns to limit the number of tourists permitted to invade their hometowns at any one time.

Pinterest graphic with the text top ten ways to joyously experience traveling in Europe over a photograph of a signpost with european countries pointing in different directions such as france, germany, italy, etc.

Introduction

I’ve experienced my share of crowds all flocking to experience the same iconic sites—the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, the Uffizi in Florence, the Colosseum in Rome, the Eiffel Tower in Paris. Thousands surge into spaces meant for hundreds, each holding aloft a smartphone to capture the moment.

The joys of travel—discovering new places, meeting new people, learning new things, enjoying great art—quickly dwindle in the face of relentless crowds, inflated prices, and grumpy locals.

Interacting with Locals

When you travel to a new place, consider looking for opportunities to interact with locals instead of lining up for the big-ticket sites. Sample local food, check out off-the-beaten path museums and galleries, meet local artists and artisans, go to local concerts, ride public transit, and wander around back streets where local people live.

You can do all these things in even the most heavily-touristed destinations if you’re willing to zig away from the crowds rather than zag towards them. Doing so may require you to skip the most famous—and crowded—sites. But the rewards more than make up for any lingering feelings of FOMO (Fear of Missing Out).

Here are my top ten ways to joyously enjoy your European travels.

1.    Check Restaurant Reviews

Chances are you’re traveling with a smartphone. Use it to find restaurants that fellow travelers and especially locals have rated highly. Ever since I started checking reviews and purposely choosing restaurants instead of wandering the streets in hopes of finding a place, I’ve enjoyed numerous awesome dining experiences.

In fact, I can safely say that almost every highly rated restaurant I’ve eaten at in Europe in the last few years was a winner.

A Parisian café is a great place to people watch while enjoying a trip to Europe

Search Criteria

I search for restaurants that have at least a 4.5-star average review and then read what people say about the quality of the food and the service. If most of the best reviews are in the local language, that’s a plus because it means the restaurant is well frequented by locals.

Make Reservations

Once I’ve made my choice, I visit the restaurant’s website and call to reserve a table or use the online booking system if it’s available. I’ve found in recent years that reservations are essential in many popular places. Without one, you may well be wandering for quite some time before finding a well-reviewed restaurant with available tables.

Note that during busy periods, you may have better luck choosing a reservation time when the restaurant opens (usually 7 or 8 pm, depending on the location). Europeans tend to eat dinner later than North Americans. If you make a reservation for 7 pm, you may well have the restaurant to yourself.

A good rule of thumb in any big European city is to steer clear of restaurants that are full of tour groups reading multi-lingual plasticated menus in high-rent locations such as the Piazza Navona in Rome.

Walk a few blocks away from the busy areas to quiet side streets and you’ll find favorite local restaurants with superb food.

Ask a Local for Recommendations

Another good strategy is to ask your hotel to recommend a local restaurant and then make a reservation for you. Every time we’ve gone to a restaurant recommended by our hotel, we’ve had a great meal.

For a giggle, check out what happened to me when I did not follow my own advice in Bella Roma Rip-off, one of the pieces in Pastel & Pen: Two Ways of Seeing, a collaboration of my writing with Gregg Simpson’s artwork. Gregg is an artist and my husband and usual travel companion.

2.    Seek Out Lesser-Known Museums

Your sightseeing time is precious. Instead of spending it waiting in long lines, seek out museums and other sites that may be less well known but are just as interesting (sometimes more so) and considerably less crowded. These days, you’ll stand in line to tour the big sites even if you book ahead. On a recent trip to Pompeii, I lined up for forty minutes to get my skip-the-line ticket that I’d purchased online days earlier, and then lined up for another twenty minutes in the skip-the-line line to get into Pompeii.

Instead of sweating in the queue outside the Louvre in Paris, visit the lovely Rodin Museum.

In Amsterdam, skip the Van Gogh Museum (or go very early in the day) and visit the charming and informative Rembrandt Huis.

In Rome, forget the Vatican Museum and head instead to the marvelous Etruscan Museum that houses an incredible collection of treasures. Both times I’ve visited, the museum was virtually empty, which is in no way a reflection on the quality of the displays. The museum just happens to be so far off the beaten track of Rome’s iconic sites that few tourists find it.

The Etruscan Museum in Rome is almost never crowded, a great bet for travelers looking to avoid crowds
The Etruscan Museum is one of Rome’s most interesting museums

Lesser-Known Museums to Visit

Here are posts about some of my favorite lesser-known and fabulous museums:

3.    Go to Art Openings

If you’ve checked out other posts on Artsy Traveler, you’ll know that a lot of my European travel centers around my husband’s art exhibitions. Most exhibitions include an opening (a vernissage in France; an inaugurazione in Italy). These events often include food and wine, and a short talk by the artist and the curator. They are also free to anyone who wants to drop in.

We’ve frequently met fellow travelers at Gregg’s openings, in addition to local art lovers, and have attended the openings of exhibitions by other artists—some we knew, some we didn’t. We always have a memorable time!

Art openings in Europe are usually free and open to everyone
Art openings at private galleries in Europe are usually free and open to everyone

Finding Art Openings

To find art openings, check online listings. Also, stroll areas that have a lot of art galleries, such as the Left Bank and Marais districts in Paris. You’ll have the most luck finding an opening in the early evening on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays.

If you pass an art gallery hosting an opening, don’t be shy! Walk in and say hello, check out some artwork, and maybe even have a glass of wine and an appetizer. You’re bound to meet a few locals who speak English, or you can practice your language skills.

4.    Attend Local Concerts and Events

One of my favorite things to do when traveling in Europe is going to classical music concerts. Sometimes, I book tickets ahead of time to see a particular concert, but at other times, I look for posters and flyers.

On a recent trip to Siena, I picked up a flyer in our hotel advertising an intimate concert with a singer and pianist held in a local church. It was magical!

While in Rome, we saw a poster advertising concerts at the stylish Auditorium Parco della Musica well off the tourist beat north of the city. We bought tickets, and enjoyed two fantastic concerts with other music lovers, the vast majority of whom were locals.

Classical music concert venue in Europe
Classical music concerts are top quality and reasonably priced

Tourist Concerts

I find that attending concerts in Europe really enhances my appreciation of the local culture. Even if the concert is advertised for tourists—such as a flamenco performance in Seville—it’s going to be good.

Trust me on this. We’ve enjoyed fado in Lisbon, flamenco in Spain, medieval music in southern France, opera in Paris, folk music in Bacharach on the Rhine, Vivaldi in Venice, Stravinsky in Berlin, Chopin in Leipzig, Shostakovich in Hamburg…I could go on and on.

And best of all, prices for classical music concerts in some of the world’s best concert venues are shockingly reasonable compared to what we pay to attend a concert in Canada.

Fado performers in Porto, Portugal
Local performances are generally authentic and well worth the price

5.    Ride Public Transit

Few travel experiences bring you closer to locals than riding busses, trains, and metros. These days, you can pay for most transit options with a tap of your credit card. I love hopping on a bus and following my progress on Google Maps, so I know exactly where to get off.

I also enjoy people-watching on public transit. On very crowded busses and metros, just be sure to keep a good grip on your valuables. While violent crime in Europe is rare, pickpockets do flourish in crowded cities.

A bus in Europe, a great way to travel local
Take a city bus in Europe and enjoy great people watching

A Cautionary Tale

A word of caution about bus travel. If you happen to have a paper ticket, ALWAYS remember to validate it when you get on the bus. I learned this lesson the hard way. On a recent stay in Turin, I got on the bus, paper ticket in hand, and noticed that no one else was validating their tickets at the machine. I wrongly presumed that validation wasn’t required. Maybe it was a special holiday?

Ten minutes later, an inspector got on the bus and started checking tickets. Everyone on the bus held up their smartphones. As tourists, we had only the paper tickets we’d purchased from the local tobacconist. When the inspector came to Gregg and me and tried to scan our tickets—nada. My protestations of being a dumb tourist fell on deaf ears. That mistake cost us 40 euros—each.

So, just because no one else is validating their ticket doesn’t mean you shouldn’t validate your ticket!

6.    Shop for Food in Local Markets

Shopping for snacks, lunches and the occasional dinner in your hotel room or apartment not only lets you experience life as a temporary local, but it also saves you money. In general, food prices are lower in Europe (although starting to rise). The quality of the fresh produce is also far superior to what is found in the average North American grocery store.

I love prowling the aisles of a European supermarket and ordering pre-made food at the in-store delis. I’ve typically found the staff to be friendly and tolerant of my attempts to at least say hello, good-bye and thank you in their language.

Outdoor Markets

Be on the lookout for open-air markets where you’ll find a dizzying array of foods along with clothing and knick-knacks. Some cities also have large indoor markets, such as the Mercado de Triana in Seville.

An outdoor market in Europe is a great place to find good, fresh food while avoiding tourist crowds
Interact with locals while browsing outdoor markets in Europe

7.    Take a Cooking Class

When you take a cooking class in Europe, you’ll meet travelers from around the world and learn from a local chef. I’m a firm fan of cooking classes and take one every chance I get.

On a recent trip to Rome, I learned how to make gelato and pizza with lovely Marco: Pizza, Gelato, Suppli–Oh My! A Fantastic Cooking Class in Rome

A cooking class in Europe is a great way to learn new skills and avoid crowds
Take a cooking class and learn new skills

In a tapas class I took in Madrid, I met fellow travelers from Australia, Holland, the UK, France, and Korea.

8.    Go on a Walking Tour

I’ve also become a big fan of walking tours, particularly specialty tours that cater to a specific interest. In Rome, I went on a walking tour of the old Jewish ghetto. In London, I explored the back alleys and colorful history of the Covent Garden theater district. In Stratford-upon-Avon, I joined three other people for a small walking tour with a guide pretending to be William Shakespeare.

Walking tours usually take you behind the scenes and to places where regular bus tours can’t go. The guides are often locals who are very enthusiastic about their subject and love showing off hidden gems.

A great source for walking tours is GuruWalk. All the tours listed are pay-what-you-can and run by locals. Here are some of the free walks available from GuruWalk in Paris.

9.    Skip the Iconic Sites

Yes, this recommendation is blasphemy but heeding it could make the difference between reveling in a relaxing and memorable European vacation and enduring one that leaves you hot, bothered, and blistered. When you’re planning what you want to see, consider not visiting super popular sites such as the Colosseum in Rome, the ruins in Pompeii, and the Eiffel Tower in Paris. Instead, choose smaller, lesser-known museums and sites, and leave more time for wandering.

By all means, stroll past the Colosseum and view the Eiffel Tower from one of the bridges. Snap some photos and drink in the view. Then, veer off into a shady side street and enjoy an hour or tour wandering around a quiet neighborhood, sitting in a park, and enjoying a drink at an outdoor café surrounded by locals.

Carol Cram in front of the Colosseum in Rome
See the Colosseum from the outside only

Travel isn’t all about ticking off the big sites. Instead, think of travel as your opportunity to surround yourself with a kaleidoscope of interesting sights, sounds, and smells.

Slow down and savor the displays in a small museum, make time for a concert or an art opening, be on the lookout for a local festival, and just be.

10. Walk Away from the Crowds

Even in Venice, one of Europe’s busiest tourist cities, you can find solitude. Leave the busy piazzas and thoroughfares and within seconds, you’ll be wandering down narrow alleyways and crossing tiny bridges spanning sleepy canals that look like they haven’t been disturbed for centuries.

Even in crowded Venice, you can easily find quiet corners

A peaceful canal in Venice (both)
A peaceful canal in Venice (both)

I skirt the main tourist drags in busy towns by going left or right down the first narrow street I see. I may get a bit lost, but I’ll also find glorious solitude and the chance to commune with the past.

Siena’s Campo bustles with tourists but walk a few meters down a side street and you’re alone and surrounded by buildings that haven’t changed much in 700 years. And at night, you’ll even have the Campo all to yourself.

Carol Cram in the Campo in Siena at night
Have the Campo in Siena to yourself at night

Such opportunities for quiet encounters with history make European travel endlessly appealing.

Some of My Favorite Uncrowded European Sites

Conclusion

What are your tips for avoiding crowds in Europe? Share your thoughts and experiences in the comments below.