The Ardèche Gorge in France: Best One Day Stay
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The Ardèche Gorge in France is famous for its rugged cliffs, its tranquil river dotted with sets of gentle rapids perfect for kayaking, and its world-renowned prehistoric caves.
The natural beauty of the Ardèche gorge attracts visitors from all over the world.
If you love the outdoors, you’ll find plenty to do at the Ardèche Gorge—hiking, cycling, kayaking, and rappelling are just the beginning.
Even if you’re not into adventure sports, you can enjoy highlights such as the iconic Pont d’Arc rock formation and the spectacular Grotte Chauvet 2 (reservations essential).
In this post, I focus on how to spend a relaxing day in the Ardèche gorge that combines some sightseeing, a visit to the Grotte Chauvet 2, and time for swimming and sunbathing.
Getting to the Ardèche Gorge in France
Getting to the Ardèche gorge is relatively easy, as it is located about an hour west of the main motorway that whisks visitors from Paris to the south of France.
We started in Dijon, which according to Google Maps is about a four-hour drive from our destination—the Prehistoric Lodge near Vallon d’Arc. But since it was August and all of France (plus a good proportion of the Netherlands judging from the many NL plates we spotted) was on the move south, traffic on the Autoroute du Soleil slowed to a crawl.
Places to Stay
Here are some other places to stay in the Ardèche region. If you’re traveling in the summer, I advise finding a place that either has a swimming pool or easy access to a river or lake.
Staying at the Prehistoric Lodge near the Ardèche Gorge
After some wrong turns courtesy of a rogue GPS that directed us to a gated pathway, we finally pulled up to the Prehistoric Lodge just past 6 pm, only an hour before the reception closed.
We entered the gate code, drove through, and were immediately captivated by both the stunning view of the Ardèche gorge and the friendly attendant who greeteds us. After we parked, she loaded our suitcases into a golf cart and tootled down the dirt road to our “tent” for the next two nights.
Rustic? Check.
Comfortable? Check.
Hot? Double check.
Our tent reminded me of safari lodges I’ve seen in travel magazines. It’s outfitted with a sturdy wooden frame, a camp bed for our bags, a wooden bathtub, a surprisingly comfortable double bed, and even a flush toilet (tucked behind a less-than-private wooden screen).
There’s no air conditioning, but a fan did its best to move the hot August air.
Swimming in the Ardèche River
The best thing about Prehistoric Lodge is its unbeatable location right on the river.
After settling in, we pulled bathing suits over our sweaty, road-weary bodies and headed into the water.
Heaven!
I waded right in and was over my head within seconds. The current was mild so no worries about being swept into the rapids burbling away about fifty meters downstream.
Dinner at the Lodge
After our swim, we dried off just in time for dinner at 7:30 pm on the terrace of the Prehistoric Lodge overlooking the Ardèche gorge.
The food is excellent and beautifully presented: burrata and tomatoes followed by chicken curry for Gregg, while I enjoyed tempura prawns with salad and beef carpaccio smothered in thin slabs of fresh parmesan. We declined dessert but could easily have been tempted.
Our first night passed reasonably well despite the heat. With daytime highs of 38 degrees, the tent didn’t cool until around 4:30 am—just in time for me to pull a light blanket over myself.
Full Day in the Ardèche Gorge
Breakfast
With only one full day in the Ardèche, we decided to keep things relaxed. Breakfast on the terrace—coffee, orange juice, and a giant croissant—fueled us for our morning outing.
See Pont d’Arc Early or Late
We drove a few kiloemters further up the gorge to the famous Pont d’Arc, a natural rock arch carved by the Ardèche River. Arriving just before 10 am turned out to be a smart move; the parking lot still had 69 spaces.
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The arch was impressive even in morning shadow, and the tiny beach beneath it was already crowded with families staking out spots for the day.
We drove to another lookout farther up the gorge to admire the classic sunlit view of the arch. Interpretive plaques explain how, for centuries, Pont d’Arc was the only river crossing, until Louis XIII ordered part of it destroyed to block enemy troops.
By the time we passed back by the main lot, the “Complet” sign was lit. If you don’t come early, park in Vallon d’Arc and take the shuttle bus instead.
Shuttle Bus from Vallon d’Arc
If you plan to visit the arch after mid-morning, I suggest parking in Vallon d’Arc and taking the handy shuttle bus. You can also rent an e-bike, although it wouldn’t be my first choice.
While the road is smooth, it is also narrow with a rock face on one side and a sheer drop on the other. And there is a lot of vehicular traffic, including large busses. More than a few times, I watched cyclists being passed with centimeters to spare. Made me shudder!
Ardèche Foefw Tours and Activities
Here are a few from GetYourGuide you could check out if you have the time and inclination.
Relaxing on the Ardèche River
Back “home” at Prehistoric Lodge, I changed into my bathing suit and settled under a tent erected on the riverside plage. Nearby was a truck selling snacks and drinks. The river itself was clogged with colorful kayaks heading downstream from Vallon d’Arc to the arch. It looks like a tranquil way to see the river.
Across the river people are rappelling from a cave at the top of the cliff to the riverbank.
Afternoon at Grotte Chauvet 2 near the Ardèche Gorge
To share its treasures, France built Chauvet 2, an exact replica down to the contours of the walls, mineral deposits, and every brushstroke, making it a must-see for anyone visiting the Ardèche gorge.
Afternoon at Grotte Chauvet 2
I go out of my way to visit caves containing art done by our distant forebears. On Artsy Traveler, you’ll find lots of information about my visit to the Caves of Lascaux, the grandaddy of cave art sites. I’ve also visited Altamira in northern Spain to view a replica of the Altamira Cave near Santillana del Mar.
The Grotte Chauvet 2 is just as important to visit, and of the three, is the hands down winner when it comes to how it organizes its visitors.
We booked tickets months in advance—absolutely essential!—for the 7 pm slot, but we arrive around 4:30 to explore. The drive up winds through dramatic gorges, and the site itself is modern, spacious, and well organized.
History of the Cave
The original Chauvet Cave was discovered in December 1994 by three local spelunkers—Jean-Marie Chauvet, Éliette Brunel, and Christian Hillaire. Inside, archaeologists uncovered a breathtaking collection of cave paintings dating back 36,000 years, making them the oldest known figurative art in the world.
If you’re an art lover, the cave art at Grotte Chauvet 2 nearby is a fascinating link to the region’s prehistoric past.
Over 1,000 images have been identified—horses, lions, rhinos, bears, and owls—rendered with surprising sophistication. The artists used shading, perspective, and movement in ways that feel astonishingly modern.
Because of the tragic lessons of Lascaux, where carbon dioxide, mold, and algae from tourism irreparably damaged the art, Chauvet was sealed immediately after its discovery. Scientists may only enter under strict conditions.
Exploring Chauvet 2
Before entering the cave, we explored the Aurignacien Gallery, which is a museum dedicated to life in the Paleolithic within the context of the Ardèche gorge.
Life-sized models of lions, mammoths, cave bears, and woolly rhinos stalk through the space, giving you an idea of the animals depicted inside the cave—and the world our ancestors inhabited.
Inside the cave replica itself, photography is forbidden, but the experience is unforgettable. Our English-language headsets automatically synced with our location, so we could wander the chambers at our own pace without missing a word of commentary.
The highlights?
- A breathtaking panel of horses, with four animals in motion, their manes flying.
- A striking pride of lions, the only known cave depiction of predators in action.
- Huge sweeping scenes of mammoths and rhinos that seem to move across the walls.
- Haunting handprints—direct connections to individuals who lived 36 millennia ago.
Here are some images from the cave included in the book I purchased in the very extensive gift shop. You can buy images from the cave on everything from tea towels to fridge magnets, and get stuffed versions of many of the animals.
As you explore, keep an eye out for local wildlife; the Ardèche Gorge is home to diverse species.
Touring Grotte Chauvet 2 is a remarkable experience not to be missed.
Practical Information for Visiting Grotte Chauvet 2
- Location: Grotte Chauvet 2 is about 15 minutes by car from Vallon d’Arc.
- Opening hours: Daily, but hours vary by season—typically 9 am–7 pm in summer.
- Tickets: €18 per adult, €9.50 for children 10–17 (under 10 free). Family passes are available. Advance booking online is essential, especially in summer. Hint: If you arrive early, check to see if you can change the time of your cave tour. We arrived at 4:30 for a 7 pm slot and were given the 5:30 pm slot which suited us perfectly.
- Other facilities: A café for snacks and light meals, gift shop, picnic areas, and the excellent museum. Plan 3–4 hours to fully enjoy everything.
Wrapping Up
On our way back to Prehistoric Lodge after our cave tour, we stop at a pizzeria just outside Vallon d’Arc and enjoyed an excellent pizza and two cold beers.
It’s dusk by the time we return, and the river is quiet. There’s time for one last swim before the sun disappears. We sink gratefully into the cool water, then spend time chatting with a young couple from the Netherlands.
If You Go: Ardèche Essentials
- Best Time to Visit: Spring (May–June) and early fall (September) for pleasant temperatures and fewer crowds. July–August is lively but very hot and crowded.
- Where to Stay: Prehistoric Lodge (rustic luxury tents right on the river, 5 minutes from Pont d’Arc). Book early in summer.
- Getting There: Vallon d’Arc is about 2.5 hours from Lyon, 3.5 hours from Marseille, and 4 hours from Dijon. You’ll need a car to explore.
- What to Pack: Swimsuit, water shoes for river swimming, light layers for hot days and cool nights, sunhat, refillable water bottle, and sturdy shoes if you plan to hike.
- Don’t Miss:
- Morning or late-afternoon visit to Pont d’Arc before parking fills.
- A lazy swim or kayak trip on the Ardèche River.
- Afternoon tour at Grotte Chauvet 2 (book months in advance).
- Tickets & Costs:
- Grotte Chauvet 2: €18 adults, €9.50 kids 10–17, under 10 free. Reserve online.
- Pont d’Arc: Parking €10/day in summer; shuttle bus from Vallon d’Arc if lots are full.
Conclusion
If you have just two nights and a day in the Ardèche, combine river swims and views of Pont d’Arc with an afternoon and early evening at Chauvet 2. It’s the perfect blend of natural wonder, outdoor adventure, and deep cultural history.
Have you visited the Ardèche region? What are your recommendations for other artsy travelers? Please share them in the Comments below.
Here are some more Artsy Traveler posts about natural wonders I’ve enjoyed visiting in Europe:
- 17 Must-See Places to Visit in France You Should Know About
- Explore Seven of the Best Prehistory Sites in Europe
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