Driving the West Coast of New Zealand's South Island

Driving the West Coast of New Zealand’s South Island

Australasia, Destinations, New Zealand Artsy Traveler

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A road trip through glaciers, gold towns, and coastal magic

Introduction: One of the World’s Great Drives

The long drive from Queenstown along the West Coast of New Zealand’s South Island to Picton to catch the ferry across Cook Strait to Wellington must rank among the planet’s most scenic.

You’ll marvel at out-of-this-world lakes and peaks, explore gold rush towns like Hokitika and Nelson, and experience the swoon-worthy beauty of Abel Tasman National Park.

Driving is absolutely the best way to see this wild region of New Zealand.

During a three-week road trip around New Zealand, I spent five days driving from Queenstown north to coastal Nelson, and onward to Picton. Here’s how it unfolded — and what I recommend if you’re planning your own South Island adventure.

Highlights of New Zealand’s South Island

Experience fantastic scenery: Wanaka, Hokitika Gorge, Punakaiki, Abel Tasman National Park
Stay in fabulous resorts: Alpine Resort Wanaka THC, Grand Monaco Arden Nelson
Take a cruise on Lake Wanaka
Experience a helicopter tour over glaciers
Treat yourself to a wine tour in Nelson

Queenstown to Wanaka: A Perfect Warm-Up Drive

Driving time: 1.5 hours (but allow longer for photo stops!)

The drive to Wanaka from Queenstown is truly spectacular. Traffic will probably be light as you wind through remote mountain passes, each turn revealing yet another postcard perfect view.

In Wanaka, I stayed at the Alpine Resort Wanaka THC in a spacious one-bedroom apartment right on the lake. The property is a short stroll along the shoreline to the lovely town of Wanaka, where you’ll find plenty of good restaurants.

View of the lake at Wanaka in New Zealand with a solitary tree in the foreground and mountains in the background--a stop on the scenic drive along New Zealand'

Wanaka feels calmer than Queenstown with more locals and fewer thrill seekers, yet with the same staggering scenery and great access to hiking and cycling tracks.

Tip: Stay two nights here. Hike Roy’s Peak, take a lake cruise, or visit the quirky Puzzling World attraction.

Here are some options for things to do in Wanaka from GetYourGuide:

Staying in Wanaka

Here are some more great options for hotels in Wanaka:

Alpine View Lodge: Serene garden and terrace, family rooms available
Lakeside Apartments: Gorgeous place with apartments overlooking Lake Wanaka and Mount Aspiring National Park.

Wanaka to Hokitika: The Long Wild Drive

Distance: 419 km | Realistic time: 8–9 hours

The longest driving day of our trip is from Wanaka north along New Zealand’s wild west coast to the beach town of Hokitika—a distance of about 419 kilometers.

Google maps estimates the driving time at five hours, but the people at Google maps have probably never driven the actual road. The reality is more like nine hours.

The drive is well worth the effort. The road curves through rainforests, over one-lane bridges, and along stretches of windswept beach. You’ll want to pull over constantly just to breathe it all in.

Tip: Fill your tank in Wanaka — petrol stations are few and far between on this stretch.

Stop: The Hokitika Gorge

A short detour off the main road leads to the Blue Pools Track — a gentle 3 km return walk through native forest to a suspension bridge. Look down to see water the color of blue jay wings swirling at the base of masses of jumbled rocks.

I highly recommend doing the walk, but be warned that you may attract several unwanted guests. By the time I returned to the car, my ankles were running with blood from sandfly bites. Nasty buggers.

Tip: Slather exposed skin liberally with repellent!

The West Coast Glaciers: Franz Josef & Fox

The West Coast is home to two of the most accessible glaciers in the world — Franz Josef Glacier (Kā Roimata o Hine Hukatere) and Fox Glacier (Te Moeka o Tuawe). Both descend from the Southern Alps into lush temperate rainforest, a phenomenon found almost nowhere else on earth.

I decide not to stop to explore the glaciers which require significant hiking time that I don’t have in my packed itinerary. Also, the clouds have rolled in to obscure the glaciers, and as a west coast gal with plenty of trips to the Canadian Rockies under my belt, I’ve seen my fair share of glaciers over the years.

But if the weather cooperates and your itinerary is flexible, I suggest stopping for the night and exploring a glacier or two.

Explore options:

Guided heli-hikes (the best way to actually walk on the glacier)
Scenic flights for bird’s-eye views
Short glacier walks to viewpoints

Here’s some tours through GetYourGuide:

Hokitika: Gold, Jade & Glow Worms

Arriving in Hokitika, I head straight for one of its famous jade workshops. Hokitika was founded in the 1860s during the West Coast gold rush, when fortune-seekers from around the world crowded its muddy streets. Today it’s quieter, but still brimming with creative energy.

After much deliberation, I buy a pikorua (jade twist pendant), a traditional Māori design symbolizing connection and life’s winding path.

The historic town center, with its heritage buildings, quirky cafés, jade shops, and art galleries, is worth a wander. Finish your evening by watching a breathtaking sunset over the Tasman Sea.

Don’t Miss: The Glow Worm Dell

After dark, I suggest you walk about a kilometer to the Glow Worm Dell, a free attraction just outside town.

I arrive to the edge of a pitch dark forest to find several cars parked nearby and an interpretative sign advising visitors that glow worms are ahead and to enjoy them in silence.

Handrails are provided for you to grope along as you walk up a small track in total darkness. If ever there was a good location for a serial killer, this would be it.

Fortunately, within about five minutes, you’ll enter glow worm fairyland. Spread out all around and above you are points of light from glow worms suspended from the trees.

Stay awhile to drink in the glow worm vibe. It really is like flying through Neverland.

Tip: Keep quiet to let everyone enjoy the moment — and bring a small flashlight for the walk back to town.

Staying in Hokitika

Unfortunately, I can’t recommend the hotel I stayed in Hokatika (no hot water for my morning shower!), but fortunately, there are many good options. Here are two I wish I’d stayed in:

Rimu Lodge: A few kilometers outside the town, this place looks fabulous!
Hokitika Fire Station Boutique Accommodation: This highly-rated place looks very cool! I always love an aparthotel.

Driving the Wild West Coast: Hokitika to Nelson

Distance: 380 km | Realistic time: 8–9 hours

The road between Hokitika and Nelson is narrow and winding and jaw-droppingly gorgeous.

You’ll hug cliff edges, snake through rainforests, and occasionally need to slow to a crawl to cross one-lane bridges (very common in New Zealand!). I get quite proficient at inching around sharp curves and making use of pull outs to let cars behind me pass.

Fortunately, the road is just about as empty as all the other roads I’ve encountered so far on New Zealand’s South Island.

Take time to stop to snap photos and inhale the sea air. Here’s the rental car I drove from Queenstown to Picton. Oh, and the view.

Driving Tips:

Keep left! It sounds obvious, but many international drivers forget on quiet roads.
Pull over to let faster cars pass — locals will thank you.
Plan shorter driving days; distances can be deceiving.
Carry snacks and water, and don’t rely on constant phone service.

Punakaiki (Pancake Rocks)

Heading north, make sure you stop at Punakaiki, famous for its “Pancake Rocks” — limestone cliffs eroded into thin, stacked layers that resemble giant piles of flapjacks.

When the tide is right, the ocean surges through blowholes, sending up plumes of spray. Even on calm days, the sea views alone are worth the visit.

Arrive early to beat the crowds. The track winding around and through the rocks leads to stupendous views both of the stacked rocks and out to the Tasman Sea.

I’ve always been a sucker for cool rock formations and the formations at Punakaiki are as good as anything I’ve ever seen. The sea is relatively calm so the famous blow holes are quiet, but I still get many wonderful shots.

Nelson: Sunshine, History & the One Ring

After driving through several mountain passes, you’ll finally reach Nelson, one of New Zealand’s oldest cities and sunniest spots. Founded in 1841, it quickly became a hub for shipping and early settlers. Today, it’s known for its arts scene, beaches, and nearby wine country.

I recommend staying at the Grand Monaco Arden Nelson, a gorgeous hotel about 10 kilometers west of Nelson. The hotel is set up to look like a ye olde English town in the Cotswolds. The apartment we’re given includes a large living room and kitchen with a separate bedroom. There is also laundry.

After dropping our bags, my daughter Julia and I take a taxi into Nelson’s compact center. I’ve done more than enough driving for awhile!

Julia, a devoted Lord of the Rings fan, has her heart set on going to the shop run by the jeweler who created the original ring for Lord of the Rings films.

The jewelry on display is fantastic. I pick up one of the rings (not THE One Ring) and ask the price. The attendant tells me it costs $2,500. I put it down again, quickly.

The One Rings on display all cost $1000 and up. Fortunately, Julia has done her homework and knows that replica One Rings retailing for around $100 are available. She asks the attendant.

“Oh, you want those ones. We keep them in the back.”

“Okay, can I see them?”

With a resigned air, he fetches a tray of “cheap” One Rings from the back and looks long-suffering while Julia makes her selection. While not solid gold, the One Ring that she purchases is gold-plated and comes in a lovely souvenir box. She threads it through the chain around her neck and leaves the shop a happy woman. Well, why not?

Exploring Nelson

Nelson’s downtown is charming and walkable, filled with art galleries, gardens, and heritage buildings.

Wander up to the Nelson Cathedral and stroll through the lush gardens beside it, then browse local outdoor shops (closing promptly at 5:30 — New Zealand time is early!).

The next day we embark on a three day, two night hike and kayak tour of Abel Tasman National Park with Wilsons. That incredible experience gets its own post: Abel Tasman National Park: Experience a Multi-Day Kayak/Hike Adventure.

Staying in Nelson

In addition to the Grand Monaco Arden Nelson, which I highly recommend, here are some other accommodation options in Nelson:

Nelson to Picton: Wine Country and Coastal Views

After the Abel Tasman adventure, we rest up in Nelson before driving to Picton, where we’ll catch the ferry to Wellington.

The guide on the Abel Tasman adventure advised me to take the super-scenic Queen Charlotte Drive to Picton. I take one look at the corkscrew curves on the map and opt for the longer, gentler inland route. Even this “boring” road winds through vineyards and mountain vistas that are still breathtaking by any standard.

Tip: The region around Blenheim and Picton is the heart of Marlborough wine country, home to some of the world’s best Sauvignon Blancs, including many of the wines I’ve been sampling on this trip (after the driving day is over, of course). I am hooked on New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs and have made it my mission to sample as many varieties as I can during the course of the trip. It’s a responsibility I take very seriously.

Here’s a wine tour you can take from Nelson with GetYourGuide:

Crossing to the North Island – Rental Car Swap

When you rent a car in New Zealand, you can’t take it on the ferry between the North and South Islands. I have no idea why, but fortunately, the process goes very smoothly.

I park our trusty Toyota rental car, walk up to the Budget counter adjacent to the ferry terminal, drop the keys, walk across to the terminal and drop our bags, and then stroll into pretty little Picton for a bite to eat before the ferry arrives.

When the huge ferry slides into dock, join the throngs of foot passengers, and if your budget allows, make your way to the Premium Lounge where there are plenty of comfy seats by the window along with free soft drinks and okay food, and a cash bar.

The journey takes three and a half hours. Most of the time, you’ll probably be staring out the window at the stunning view of Marlborough Sounds.

New Zealand really is a ridiculously beautiful country!

Final Thoughts: The Magic of the West Coast

From the glacier valleys to the jade shops, from glow worms to golden beaches, the wild west coast of New Zealand’s South Island isn’t just a route. It’s an adventure that I highly recommend.

Practical Travel Tips

Best time to go: November–April (warmer, drier months)
Car rental: Book early; pickup in Queenstown, drop in Picton
Sandflies: Bring heavy-duty insect repellent — trust me
Weather: Expect rain — it’s what makes the rainforest lush
Apps to download: Google Maps, CamperMate (for fuel & facilities)

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