Discover New Zealand’s North Island: Hobbiton, the Coromandel, & Auckland
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Our three-week New Zealand odyssey is entering its final, golden chapter.
After geysers, glowworms, and volcanoes, we trade steam and sulfur for hobbits, hot sand, and good wine.
From the rolling green hills of Hobbiton to the wild beauty of the Coromandel Peninsula, this last stretch of our journey feels like New Zealand is giving us a fond farewell tour — part fantasy film set, part seaside dreamscape.
Our last days exploring New Zealand’s North Island is a series of perfect contrasts: whimsical Hobbit holes and sweeping coastal cliffs; sultry hot pools and breezy beach walks; a glass of prosecco on a vineyard terrace and a pint of ale in the Green Dragon. Finally, we land in Auckland — the City of Sails — for a birthday celebration on Waiheke Island, a few sheepish adventures up north, and a last look at this country that has utterly stolen our hearts.
Here’s a map of everywhere we visited in our last few days in marvelous New Zealand:
Happy Hobbiton
Is the movie set for Hobbiton an over-priced tourist trap? Kind of.
Is it worth visiting? Absolutely!
The roads leading across lovely rolling countryside to Hobbiton are empty on the first wet morning of our trip as we drive an hour from Rotorua to Hobbiton.
We anticipate no crowds and lots of time for people-free photos. Five minutes after turning off the empty main road onto an empty side road, we drive into a parking lot teeming with tour busses and cars.
Where did they all come from? It’s like they are breeding like, well, hobbits.
Make sure you book your tickets well in advance of your visit:
Touring Hobbiton
We are assigned our giant green Hobbiton bus for the 11 am tour. The bus winds up a steep road that runs across property belonging to the Alexander family. The property is one of twelve properties scouted for Hobbiton.
Considering the cash cow that the movie set has become, I should imagine the family is very pleased to own the chosen property. Apparently, after Lord of the Rings, the set was left to grow weedy and neglected. However, after the set was revived for the shooting of The Hobbit movies, the site’s potential as a tourist destination was realized.
I am prepared to be underwhelmed and am very pleasantly surprised. Once we clamber off the bus, our friendly guide takes us on an hour-long walk around the set that ends up at the Green Dragon, where we are given a pint of ale or cider.
The big attraction is the incredible attention to detail and the beauty of the set. It’s impossible not to snap pictures continuously. We are lucky that the site is not too crowded and so we are able to get lots of shots without people. It it is all just so darn cute.
It’s impossible not to smile as we wander the small pathways that wind around the set, revealing new and frankly adorable vistas at every turn.
In the gift shop after our “free” glass of ale in the Green Dragon, Julia lays out some serious dollars on souvenirs before we climb back into the car for the drive up to the Coromandel Peninsula.
The Glorious Coromandel
I’d heard the under-visited Coromandel Peninsula was a must-see, and it doesn’t disappoint. We’d debated between the Coromandel and the Bay of Islands, but skipping the extra driving turns out to be a wise choice.
Our three nights — one in Whitianga and two in Pauanui — give us a chance to slow down and simply enjoy the views. Sightseeing consists of spectacular drives, a few good tramps in the forest, amazing beaches, and a fair bit of just hanging out.
Our drive north from Hobbiton to Whitianga on the east coast of the Coromandel takes us up and over two mountain ranges with a good supply of New Zealand’s typically twisty roads and one-lane bridges. I am getting pretty good at the driving and take the curves like a pro (but a slow pro).
We arrive at Whitiagana around 4 pm and check into the Beachside Resort Motel Whitianga across from a wide beach, then set off again almost immediately for Hot Water Beach–reputed to be one of the top ten beaches in the world.
Hot Water Beach
Hot Water Beach is best visited two hours either side of low tide. I check the conveniently supplied tide tables at the hotel reception and realize that if we don’t go this afternoon, we won’t see Hot Water Beach at all.
Low tide is 6:30 pm. The next day, it’s very early in the morning and even later in the evening. Although tired after a long day of Hobbiting and driving, we pull on bathing suits and set off back the way we have just driven.
A 30-minute drive south brings us to the turnoff for Hot Water Beach. Armed with the spade we got from reception back at the hotel, we join the throngs of bathers at a small area of sand exposed by low tide.
Many pools are already dug and many already vacated. The pools fill with hot water from the geothermal activity bubbling away just under the sand. In places, the sand is too hot to walk on.
We settle into a pool and dig into the sand to release more hot water. Occasionally, yelps of pain cut the evening air as people nearby tap into more heat than they want. Just a few yards away, the Pacific Ocean pounds into the beach as the sun sets.
Yeah, it’s pretty cool.
Cathedral Cove
The next morning, we set off along the same road south, this time to Cathedral Cove, which is not far from Hot Water Beach.
Cathedral Cove is accessible only on foot or by water taxi. We opt for the water taxi which whisks us in ten minutes from the beach next to the car park to one of the most beautiful beaches on the Coromandel.
We loll about in the sun for several hours and enjoy swimming in crystal clear waters from a smooth sand beach (no beach shoes required here!). Here are just a few of the stunning pictures I took.
Tours in the Area
Here are some tours from GetYourGuide that include both Hot Water Beach and Cathedral Cove:
Onward to Pauanai
From Cathedral Cove, we drive down the Pauanui to a lovely suite at the Grand Mercure Puka Park Resort billed as a tree hut.
We do feel a bit Tarzan-like standing on the balcony and looking into the top branches of the surrounding forest.
The beach, however, is spectacular and deserted. We snap a lot of pictures.
Tairua
On our second full day on the Coromandel, we drive over to Tairua, a charming little town across the estuary from Pauanui.
I buy a lovely ring for me and a necklace for my mother at a little art gallery and chat with the lady about art. We then drive as far as we can up Mount Paku and walk the steep track to the top.
We are told later that by climbing Mt. Paku we are sure to return to the area. Well, I wouldn’t say no to that. Mt. Paku is a volcano that rises high above Tairua with spectacular 360-degree views from the top (and a fair number of hungry mosquitoes).
Auckland & Waiheke: Birthday Bliss in the City of Sails
We bid farewell to the Coromandel and encounter traffic and freeways for the first time in weeks.
Auckland feels huge after the serenity of the countryside, but the Sky City Grand Hotel quickly wins us over with its harbor views and plush comfort.
My Perfect Birthday
In New Zealand, I get two birthdays. On March 18th, friends from Australia post their Happy Birthdays on Facebook and then on March 19th, my friends and family up north post. I like stretching out my birthday over two hemispheres.
Julia has organized a special trip for my birthday and finally reveals what it is. At 4 pm, we take a 35-minute ferry ride to Waiheke Island (Auckland’s answer to Bowen Island but with vineyards) and enjoy a Twilight Wine Tour and Dinner. The whole evening is perfection. Waiheke Island is stunning with ocean vistas from every hilltop.
Wine Tour on Waiheke Island
We are the only people on the tour so our cheerful driver takes us on a few unscheduled loops around the island before we end up at the Batch Winery.
Here we sample four wines–starting with a lovely Prosecco and ending with a Cabernet. Since Julia does not really like wine, I am obliged to also sample her wines.
We are then served a two-course meal that is one of the best meals we’ve had in New Zealand. As we eat, the sun starts to set over the Pacific Ocean. Magic!
If you’re in Auckland, I highly recommend booking a wine tour on Waiheke Island. Here’s an option with GetYourGuide:
Wenderholm Park & Sheepworld
On our last full day in New Zealand, we drive north to explore Wenderholm Park, a fairytale landscape of tangled trees.
Our next stop is the little town of Matakana. Today is market day and the little village center is thronged with stalls selling mostly food. We grab lunch from various stalls and wander around. Matakana definitely puts the “ch” in charming. I buy a jar of wonderful peanut butter only to have it confiscated at security the next day as we board the plane for home. Sigh.
Finally, we give in to curiosity and visit Sheepworld, north of Auckland — a delightfully quirky and surprisingly informative attraction.
The 90-minute sheep show is run by a very entertaining and sheep-sharp man. We learn about the two breed of sheepdogs used in New Zealand–the “looker” and the “barker” and then file out to the paddock to watch three dogs (two barkers and a looker) herd a flock of sheep.
The guide talks a lot about how the dogs–all of which are puppies–are trained. I’ve never seen sheepdogs at work and I must say they are very impressive.
We are then directed back into the barn to watch the sheep shearing. The guide talks a lot about the work of the sheep shearer-brutally difficult and requiring tremendous skill. I am fascinated. Who knew sheep could be so interesting?
Finally, we are given bottles to feed some of the lambs. Major cute attack.
Auckland Aquarium and the Journey Home
On our final morning, we take the “shark bus” to the Auckland Aquarium. It’s pricey and claustrophobic, although the penguins are undeniably charming. We head back to town for a last lunch before the final drive to the airport.
After having driven over 2000 kilometers without nary a scratch in three weeks, I’m relieved to hand over the keys at the airport and then to hit the shops for one last sweep of souvenirs.
Conclusion: A Farewell to the Land of Magic and Mellow Moments
The takeaway from my three weeks in New Zealand as expressed in these six blog posts is my hope that people will consider a trip to this most interesting and easy-to-manage countries.
New Zealand pretty much has it all: amazing scenery, spectacular beaches, plenty of adventure activities, thousands of kilometers for tramping, compelling culture cheerfully presented, friendly people, empty roads, and good food and accommodation options.
New Zealand also feels very safe. It is comforting to tramp through forests and not worry about being killed by snakes, crocs, bears, spiders, etc., or people for that matter. Never once, even in downtown Auckland at night, did we feel in any danger.
Kia ora, New Zealand — and thank you for the memories, the majesty, and the marvelous journey.
More New Zealand
Here are all the posts I wrote to document my three-week driving trip around New Zealand. Check out my tips and recommendations for exploring this magical country.
- 10 Awesome Things to Do in Queenstown, New Zealand
- Driving the West Coast of New Zealand’s South Island
- Abel Tasman National Park: Best Luxury Adventure
- Best of Wellington in One Day: Culture & Charm
- What to See in New Zealand’s Steamy North Island
- Discover New Zealand’s North Island: Hobbiton, the Coromandel, & Auckland
Have you visited New Zealand? Share your suggestions for other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.
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