How to See the Art of Pompeii at the National Archaeological Museum in Naples

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Naples-bound? Then put the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli aka the National Archaeological Museum of Naples high on your list of must-sees.

I’ve visited Pompeii twice before my most recent trip, and both times, I never managed to visit the Naples National Archaeological Museum. I came close when visiting with my family back in the nineties. We took a taxi from our hotel to the museum on our way to Pompeii only to find it closed.

In those pre-Google days, I’d neglected to read the guide book.

A detailed mosaic depicting various birds, plants, and animals, overlaid with the text, “Art of Pompeii at the National Archaeological Museum in Naples.” The bottom section features the website "artsytraveler.com."

So on my latest trip I was determined to finally see the museum because it houses the vast majority of the art excavated from ancient Pompeii and Herculaneum and is considered one of the best archeological museums in the world.

In this post, I share what I consider the top things to see in this incredible museum.



The National Archaeological Museum of Naples (MANN) is the best place to see the art of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Its top highlights include the Alexander Mosaic, the Farnese sculptures, the Secret Cabinet, vibrant Roman frescoes, fascinating everyday objects that bring the life of the people of Pompeii and Herculaneum to life, and exquisite mosaics from the House of the Faun and other elite villas. It’s a must-visit for anyone who wants to go beyond the ruins to see the towns the way they looked before Vesuvius exploded and buried them for centuries.


Museum & Naples at a Glance

  • Take a guided tour of the museum
  • Museum highlights:
    • The sculpture collection, particularly Hercules at Rest
    • Collection of everyday objects is a poignant reminder of the people who lived and died in Pompeii
    • The “Zootopia” mosaic with its bevy of wild animals
    • Portrait of the poet Sappho
  • Great apartment to stay in Naples: Palazzorefici
  • Recommended tour of Naples that includes Pompeii. 

See the National Archaeological Museum of Naples First!

Now that I’ve toured the National Archaeological Museum, I can without hesitation recommend that you go there first and then tour the ruins of Pompeii and/or Herculaneum. Both cities were buried in the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 CE, with excavations starting at far back as the 16th century.

As you’ll discover, Pompeii and Herculaneum are pretty much all ruins (quel surprise!) with the vast majority of the finest frescoes, mosaics, and statues long ago removed to the National Archaeological Museum in Naples.

You’ll see and learn so much more about ancient Pompeii and Herculaneum at the museum than you will at the archeological sites.

Also, to be honest, wandering around Pompeii in the heat (I visited in late April and it was 30 degrees) with thousands of other visitors is not as comfortable an experience as strolling through the thoughtfully air-conditioned National Archaeological Museum of Naples.

Consider a guided tour of the museum to make sure you don’t miss any of the many highlights:

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Overview of the National Archaeological Museum in Naples

In this post, I’ll share some of my favorite parts of the National Archaeological Museum in Naples (MANN) with the proviso that the museum is chock-a-block with amazing objects from antiquity.

I’ve rarely seen such a beautifully appointed museum where just about every item in it is worth a stop and a good long look.

You can easily visit the National Archaeological Museum in about two to three hours, depending on your energy level. You’ll also find a good cafe where you can take a break for refueling after touring a floor or two.

I did, and it made all the difference to my enjoyment of the museum. This is a big museum; pace yourself!

The exterior of the National Archaeological Museum of Naples, a grand pink building with arched windows, statues, and palm trees lining the street under a clear blue sky.
Exterior of the National Archaeological Museum of Naples

Getting Tickets

When I toured MANN in late April, the crowds were light (unlike the next day in Pompeii!) and I waited only a few minutes at the entrance to buy tickets.

In busier times of the year, you may want to skip the ticket line by buying your tickets online from the museum’s website or through resellers such as Get Your Guide.

Plan of Attack

The museum is organized according to type of art, so you’ll find rooms full of artifacts from Pompeii, including sculptures, mosaics, everyday objects, frescoes, and coins.

I saw most of what was on display in the sculpture, mosaic, everyday objects, and fresco areas. The quality of the work is awe-inspiring.

I suggest starting with the sculptures on the ground floor and then going to the top floor and working your way down. Doing so minimizes stair climbs (there’s an elevator to whisk you to the second floor) and conserves energy.


Ground Floor – Monumental Sculpture and the Farnese Collection

Begin your visit among the museum’s most imposing masterpieces. The ground floor houses the legendary Farnese sculptures, a collection of Roman-era copies of Greek originals that set the tone for the grandeur of MANN.

Here you’ll find colossal works like the Farnese Hercules and the Farnese Bull, displayed in airy halls that allow their dramatic scale to shine.

Sculptures

Wowza! They are stunning. I didn’t expect to see so many really large sculptures that looked like they were chiseled yesterday when in fact they are almost 2000 years old.

Here’s a selection of my favorites.

Hercules at Rest

Even big guys like Hercules can use some time off now and again. This massive sculpture of old Herc shows him leaning on his club. The sculpture is a Roman copy from the end of the 2nd/beginning of the 3rd Century CE of a Greek statue from the second half of the 4th century BCE.

The subject of Hercules at rest is a very popular one. It shows him exhausted and pensive after having undertaken yet another labor for his cousin Eurytheus.

While the top half of Hercules sags with fatigue, his legs and feet still look dynamic, as if he was ready to spring into action (yet again) at any moment. His exaggerated musculature and weary pose epitomize the heroic ideal in Roman art.

The sheer size of the statue took my breath away–and it’s just one of many dozens of sculptures in MANN.

A massive marble statue of Hercules standing, leaning on his club draped with a lion’s skin. The muscular figure is displayed in a grand hall with museum visitors in the background.

Hercules is part of the Farnese Collection, which was one of the first collections of artistic items from Greco-Roman antiquity.

It was started by  Cardinal Alessandro Farnese (he later became Pope Paul III) back in the 16th century when collecting antiquities started being all the rage.

Farnese Bull

The largest surviving ancient sculpture group, the Farnese Bull captures the myth of Dirce, dramatically carved with twisting bodies and swirling drapery. Its sheer scale and technical ambition make it a showpiece of the museum’s classical collection.

Farnese Bull MAN Napoli Inv6002 n07
Naples National Archaeological Museum, CC BY 2.5 , via Wikimedia Commons

Dog Sculptures

Large sculptures dominate the sculpture collection, but they are by no means the only sculptures worth admiring at MANN.

Here are three incredibly charming sculptures of Roman pooches. They look like they could come to life at any minute and run toward you, tails wagging.

A marble sculpture of a dog sitting and scratching itself with its hind leg, carved with detailed musculature and a lifelike posture.
Two marble statues of dogs seated on stone bases, both with their heads tilted upwards, possibly barking or howling. The detailed carvings highlight the dogs’ muscular forms and expressive faces.
A marble statue of a dog lying down on a stone base, its body relaxed and head slightly raised. The sculpture captures the animal’s muscular build and detailed features.

Athena

Athena is the Goddess of Wisdom, along with warfare and handicrafts. The next time you pick up a knitting project, call on Athena for some extra guidance!

This sculpture (bigger than can possibly be portrayed in a photo) really shows off Athena’s robes in all their pleated glory.

A marble statue of the goddess Athena in full armor, holding out a shield-like cloth decorated with a gorgon’s face. The statue stands tall in a museum setting with visitors in the background.

Bust of a Woman

I don’t know who this is but I love her hair!

She looks a bit careworn, perhaps from having to cope with all those corkscrew locks every day. I also loved the black stone, which is an interesting break from the predominantly cream-colored marble that was used to create most of the other sculptures in MANN.

It’s hard to believe this sculpture dates back two millennia. Like most of the sculptures in MANN, the bust is in near perfect shape.

A bronze bust of a woman’s head with intricate spiral-patterned hair. The sculpture rests on a pedestal, showing lifelike facial features and detailed craftsmanship.

Petite Figure

This small statuette of a child is one of several equally adorable pieces. You can understand how the artists who are descended from the ones who sculpted these pieces came up with cupids!

The pieces look incredibly lifelike.

A marble sculpture of a young boy seated, holding a cornucopia filled with fruits. The sculpture captures intricate details of the boy’s curly hair and gentle expression.


Second Floor – Daily Life & Frescoes

The second floor brings you close to the vibrant visual culture of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Everyday objects and frescoes reveal how ancient Romans decorated their homes, dined, groomed, worshipped, and lived. Highlights include the extensive rooms of wall paintings, along with jewelry, silverwork, and domestic tools that reconstruct life before 79 CE.

Everyday Objects

After checking out the sculptures, take the elevator directly to the second floor to tour the collection of everyday objects salvaged from Pompeii and Herculaneum and

For me, a highlight of the MANN collection is the vast array of household and everyday objects that were salvaged from Pompeii during excavations that began in the late 18th century. Many of the objects were remarkably preserved, including pots, glassware, small statues of household gods, combs, jewelry, and cooking utensils.

The ancient Roman versions of pretty much everything humans need to cook, clean, and live in houses is on display.

It turns out that Romans aren’t all that different from us when it comes to the stuff they had in their houses. Take away our electronics and indoor plumbing, and we’re left with similar objects to those used by the average Pompeii resident: wine bottles, cooking pots, jewelry, cups, combs, chairs, and the like.

Here are some particularly fine examples of the household objects salvaged from the ruins of both Herculaneum and Pompeii.

Terracotta Frog

Is this little guy not the sweetest thing? It’s a statuette of a frog made from lead-glazed terracotta. I’m not sure what he was used for, but he sure caught my eye.

And he was just one of many, many such objects artfully displayed in room after well-lit room at MANN.

A terracotta sculpture of a frog with a wide mouth, seated on a base. The texture and details of the frog’s body are finely crafted.

Deep Wine Cup

Look at the handiwork on this lead-glazed terracotta wine cup! It’s decorated with vegetable motifs and doves. Imagine drinking your wine out of that.

A brown ceramic wine cup with two handles shaped like animal heads. The surface is decorated with floral patterns and intricate detailing.

Cosmetic Jar

Ladies in Pompeii wore cosmetics just like women do today. But with plastic rather lacking in those days, they stored their cosmetics in glass containers such as the one shown below.

Again, it looks brand new! The jar is described as free-blown glass from the 1st century CE.

A cylindrical blue glass container with a fitted lid, labeled with the number "3." The container’s surface has minor scratches and signs of age.

Blue Glass Pitcher

And last but not least, I have to include this perfect example of a free-blown glass pitcher. Look at the color! There were also many, many more examples of pitchers blown in darker tones as well as clear glass.

I still can’t get over how they survived the blast, but I guess the ash buried things so thoroughly that they were preserved during the 1800 odd years they lay undisturbed. Remarkable!

A deep blue ancient glass vase with a curved handle and narrow spout, displayed against a white background. The surface shows subtle signs of wear.

Portraits

MANN includes several portraits of Romans in its collection. One of the most famous is the portrait of the baker Therentius Neo and his wife. Don’t they look contemporary?

Walking along the streets of Naples after visiting MANN brought us face to face with several of their descendants!

Terentius Neo and his wife - a Roman portrait at MANN

Here is another very famous portrait, this one of the poet Sappho, or at least that’s how it’s billed. The truth is that we don’t know if the portrait is actually of Sappho. It’s rather a “typological” representation of a young woman holding a stylus and a wax tablet, two things the real poet Sappho would likely have had.

Anyway, it’s nice to think the portrait really is of Sappho which is probably why the image is everywhere in the gift shop, including on the fridge magnet I bought.

A fresco depicting a woman, believed to be the poet Sappho, holding a stylus to her lips and a wax tablet in her other hand. She has curly hair and wears gold earrings, set against a cracked circular frame.

Could This be My Next Character?

And finally, I came across this lovely mosaic portrait of a young woman. According to the description, the mosaic dates to the Julian-Claudian era (27 BCE to 68 CE) in Pompeii. She’s likely pretty high born (check out the necklace).

I love how she looks directly out at the viewer. If I do decide to write a novel set in ancient Rome (and I am toying with some ideas), then this mosaic could be the image of my main character!

An ancient mosaic portrait of a young woman with dark hair tied back, wearing pearl earrings and a necklace. Her gaze is serious, and the background is composed of brown mosaic tiles

Pompeii Frescoes Galleries

Frescoes and paintings galore! You won’t believe how many paintings and frescoes you’ll find at MANN. This is because the Romans lavishly painted the inside walls of their villas and added painted embellishments just about anywhere there was a blank wall.

That so many of these paintings survived the eruption of Vesuvius is truly astonishing.

The Romans were unbelievably good painters. They’d mastered perspective and realism 1500 years before the Renaissance. So many of the paintings in MANN look like they could have been painted in the past few hundred years, particularly the gorgeous still lifes.

Here’s my best picks at MANN.

Isis & Snakes

Snakes are quite a recurring theme in the paintings in MANN. I’m not sure why that is; perhaps sea serpents were bigger and more threatening back in the day.

For whatever reason, you’ll see snakes depicted in mosaics and frescoes, and included as details on pots, urns, and other objects.

This fresco, which had once graced the wall of a villa in Pompeii, shows Isis hauling the boat with the body of Osiris along the Nile accompanied by snakes lurking below the surface. Cheerful.

An ancient fresco showing two busts of figures flanking a scene of a boat on water with a shrine and a bird. Beneath them are two large, coiled snakes and a small temple-like structure.

Still Lifes

I couldn’t believe the quality and quantity of still life paintings at MANN. The realism truly is incredible. I have a soft spot for still lifes. See my post about the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam where some of my fave still lifes are exhibited.

I never knew that the ancient Romans were so adept at creating them. Here are two still lifes–one of dead birds and mushrooms, and the other of a bunny with onions.

A fresco depicting dead birds hanging on a wooden rod above a collection of mushrooms. The muted colors and detailed rendering capture a sense of realism.
A fresco still life depicting a dead rabbit lying on a wooden surface alongside figs and pomegranates. The painting shows detailed textures of the fur and fruits.

First Floor – Mosaics, Masterpieces, and the Secret Cabinet

The first floor is devoted to some of the museum’s most beautiful and unforgettable works. The celebrated Alexander Mosaic and the dazzling Pompeii mosaic galleries showcase intricate craftsmanship and elite taste. Nearby, the Secret Cabinet presents a curated collection of Roman erotic art that was once hidden from public viewing and is now one of the museum’s most fascinating highlights.

Mosaics

The people of Pompeii and Herculaneum sure liked their mosaics. The floors of many houses, particularly those belonging to rich people (of which there were quite a few in Pompeii), were decorated with mosaics.

The mosaics in MANN give just a taste of just how opulent the homes must have been. The intricacy of the designs really is breathtaking.

Zootopia Mosaic

Here is a series of three mosaics, displayed in horizontal format, but shown here in three parts to better check out the imagery. Each of these mosaics includes a bevy of wild animals, from hippos to snakes to ducks to crocodiles. What a tour de force!

An elaborate mosaic showing a hippopotamus with an open mouth, ducks, and a crocodile in a marsh setting. The scene is filled with reeds and blooming flowers.
A detailed mosaic featuring ducks, snakes, and a boar set among water plants and flowers. The snakes are shown coiling and slithering in the water.
A vibrant mosaic depicting ducks swimming in water, surrounded by lotus flowers and plants. The ducks are shown in various poses with intricate feather details.

Dog Mosaic

The Romans definitely liked dogs! Here’s another depiction of a dog, this time in mosaic form. This image is very popular; it’s on various products sold in the gift shop, including bags, fridge magnets, and mouse pads.

I did buy a fridge magnet at the MANN gift shop, but of Sappho (see above) not the dog!

A Roman mosaic featuring a black dog on a leash, shown mid-stride with its mouth open, against a background of small white tiles. The leash is highlighted in red.

Sea Creatures

Can you imagine the imagination that concocted this delectable cornucopia of sea creatures? Wow! I particularly like the giant octopus in the middle. The mosaic also reminds me of the kinds of displays you’d see in 19th century natural history museums.

A detailed mosaic depicting various sea creatures, including fish, an octopus, a lobster, and eels, all set against a dark background. The intricate artwork highlights the diversity of marine life.

Secret Cabinet (Gabinetto Segreto)

Don’t miss the Secret Cabinet if you’re inclined to view the museum’s extensive collection of erotic and sexually-themed objects and paintings salvaged from Pompeii and Herculaneum.

The room was finally re-opened in 2000 with a display that organizes objects according to their, ah, function and material. 

It’s a bit of an eye-opener, but definitely interesting and proving there is nothing new under the sun!


Alexander Mosaic

This spectacular floor mosaic—made of over a million tiny tesserae—shows Alexander the Great charging at King Darius. Its energy, shading, and drama reveal the sophistication of Hellenistic art and the extraordinary taste of Pompeii’s elite.

Alexander the Great mosaic

Practical Information for Visiting MANN

Location

The museum is located at Piazza Museo 19 in Naples, which is just north of the historic center and is easily reached by Metro Line 1 (Museo stop) or Line 2 (Cavour stop). Take a taxi if you can, if only to experience driving in Naples traffic without having to drive yourself. It’s wild!

Opening Hours

Open daily except Tuesdays, when the museum is closed. Hours are generally 9:00–19:30, with last entry about an hour before closing. Check the official site before you go, as special exhibitions may affect schedules.

Tickets

You can buy tickets at the entrance, but advance booking is recommended on weekends, holidays, and high season (April–October). Combination tickets that include temporary exhibitions may also be available.

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Best Time to Visit

Arrive right at opening for the quietest experience. The crowds tend to gather mid-morning in the Farnese galleries and again in the fresco and mosaic rooms.

Bag Storage & Security

Check large bags and backpacks at the free cloakroom. Standard security screening is required at the entrance.

Photography

Photography is generally allowed without flash. Some temporary exhibitions may have restrictions.

Accessibility

Elevators connect all major floors, and most galleries are fully accessible. If you have mobility concerns, ask staff for the recommended accessible route, as the museum’s layout can feel labyrinthine.

Facilities

There is a small café and bookshop on the ground floor. Restrooms are available on multiple levels, although not always near the main galleries.


Naples Archeological Museum FAQs

Here are some of the questions I’ve been asked about visiting the Naples Archeological Museum.

What are the must-see highlights at the Naples Archaeological Museum?

The top highlights include the Alexander Mosaic, Farnese Hercules, Farnese Bull, Pompeii frescoes, mosaics from elite villas, the Secret Cabinet, and the poignant everyday objects used by the people of Pompeii and Herculaneum.

Is the best Pompeii art in Naples or at Pompeii itself?

Most of the finest art—including mosaics, frescoes, and luxury objects—was moved to Naples for protection. The ruins show the context; Naples shows the masterpieces. On a hot day, the museum is a far superior experience to the often over-crowded and sun-blasted ruins.

How long do I need to see the Naples Archaeological Museum?

Plan 1 hour for essentials and 2–3 hours for a full highlights visit. The museum is large and best enjoyed at a relaxed pace. Take breaks in the museum cafe.

Do I need to book tickets in advance?

Booking ahead is recommended during high season and weekends, although day-of tickets are often available.

Is the Secret Cabinet open to all visitors?

Yes. The formerly restricted cabinet is now open to all adults. It’s small but packed with an eye-popping selection of Roman erotic art and objects from Pompeii and Herculaneum.

Can I see everything from the Villa of the Mysteries here?

No, the frescoes remain in Pompeii, but related stylistic examples and other major frescoes from elite villas are displayed at MANN. While the Villa of the Mysteries is interesting to visit, you’ll get a better fresco experience and see a lot more variety at MANN.


Tour Options in the Naples Area

Here are some Get Your Guide and Tiqets.com tickets and tours you may wish to consider while in the Naples area. I frequently purchase tours and tickets from Get Your Guide and Tiqets.com and have yet to be disappointed. The tours they include on their website are, in my experience, reasonably priced and interesting.

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Walking Tours of Naples

If you enjoy walking tours, then you can’t go wrong with GuruWalks. Check out their tours in Naples.


Where to Stay in Naples

Here are the two places I’ve stayed in Naples:

The Hotel Paradiso is located on Posillipo Hill and has a commanding view across the Bay of Naples to Mount Vesuvius. Relax on the terrace and enjoy! The hotel is comfortable and reasonably priced.

The Palazzorefici is a stylish apartment deep in the heart of Naples on a tiny side street. It’s close to a main street where you can easily get taxis to where you want to go in Naples.


Conclusion

In this post, I’ve just scratched the surface of the collection at the National Archaeological Museum of Naples. I recommend you make time in your itinerary to visit, preferably as I said earlier, before you visit Pompeii.

In fact, if I had to choose between visiting Pompeii and visiting the museum, I’d choose the museum. Yes, I know that the ruins are way more famous, and they are pretty impressive. However, they truly are mobbed with visitors.

And they are BIG! If you can, visit very early in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid the heat. Alternatively, visit at a time of year when temperatures are less ferocious. There is virtually no shade anywhere.

Have you visited the National Archaeological Museum in Naples? What were some of your favorite objects? Share in the comments below.

Here are some more posts to give you a taste of Italy or check Visiting Italy to see the full list of posts about Italy.

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3 comments

  1. Kathy Hayes

    We toured Pompeii with our son and his wife. We never got to the museum and I have huge regrets!!! Is there a nice coffee table type book that provides photos of what is in the Archaeological Museum?

    Reply

    1. carolcram

      I found this book on Amazon, but it’s only in Italian: https://amzn.to/3B0obdr That’s too bad you missed the museum; it’s really not that well known, but I think it’s one of the best archeological museum I’ve ever visited, and more interesting than the Pompeii ruins, especially when it’s hot and crowded! Maybe on your next trip you’ll get to visit. Naples is a lot of fun!

      Reply

  2. Steve

    Your website information is very useful. Thank you.

    Reply

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