If you’re a fan of English Romantic poets, then you must make a pilgrimage to the Keats-Shelley House in Rome.
This lovely little literary museum is nestled right next to the world famous Spanish Steps in Rome. Thousands of visitors mill around the piazza in front of the steps, climb the steps, and take pictures of the steps.
Yes, the steps really are very attractive–lots of flowers and a striking two-tower church at the top.
But in the end, the steps are, well, steps. If you go to the Spanish Steps, take a quick pic and then veer right to visit the Keats-Shelley House. You’re in for a first-rate Artsy Traveler experience.
Keats-Shelley House At A Glance
Best For: Literature lovers, poetry enthusiasts, niche cultural travelers
Time Needed: 45–60 minutes
Location: Piazza di Spagna, directly beside the Spanish Steps
Why Go: Authentic period rooms, moving memorials to Keats, rare manuscripts, and a contemplative escape from Rome’s crowds
Opening Times: Monday–Saturday: 10:00–13:00 & 14:00–18:00; Closed Sundays and public holidays
Cost: General admission: €8–€10 (varies by exhibition); Reduced tickets available for students and seniors
Literary Leanings
If you’ve been reading the Artsy Traveler blog for awhile, you probably know that I write mostly arts-inspired historical novels. My first three historical novels feature a painter (The Towers of Tuscany), a composer (A Woman of Note), and an actress (The Muse of Fire). My latest novel, The Choir, revolves around a choir.
So, as a novelist, I’m a lover of literature, and what could be more literary than two of the greatest Romantic poets?
Also, back in the day when I went to university in England, I took my degree in English Literature. As a result, I studied a lot of poetry, particularly by Shelley.
So to enter rooms where Keats and Shelley hung out really is a pilgrimage.
Touring the Keats-Shelley House
The Keats-Shelley House is extremely easy to find thanks to its location next to the Spanish Steps. You’ll also see the banner hanging outside.
The Keats-Shelley House is open from 10 to 1 and 2 to 6, and includes a special rate for seniors.
The ticket person got on my good side by telling us we didn’t qualify for the senior’s rate because it’s only for people over 65. Awww. That was kind of her.
But needless to say, I corrected her and got the reduced rate.
You enter the museum and climb to the first floor where you’ll find the tiny gift shop (more on that later) and the ticket taker.
After paying the entrance fee, turn right to tour a series of beautiful rooms containing a great many treasures and curiosities associated with the lives and works of several of the Romantic poets and their associates.
You’ll see letters written by Keats, Shelley, Bryon, Mary Shelley, Wordsworth, and other luminaries from the time. The evenness of their penmanship puts most modern folks to shame!
Also on display are drawings, snippets of poetry, paintings, and other memorabilia. The explanations are clear and informative.
Why The Poets Loved Italy
Back in the 18th and 19th centuries, with a decade or two off during the beginning of the 19th century for the Napoleonic Wars, Italy was a mecca for poets and writers from northern climes, including the Romantic poets from England, and Goethe from Germany.
These writers loved Italy’s warm weather, easy-going life, and the inspiration to be found in so many centuries of history. What attracted them to Italy back then isn’t so very different from what attracts me to Italy today.
It’s a very special country with so much to offer. No wonder I keep coming back year after year!
Rooms in the Keats-Shelley House
The rooms in the Keats-Shelley House include a library of more than 8,000 volumes. It’s considered one of the finest libraries of Romantic literature in the world.
Thoughtfully presented displays provide you with a lot to read as you prowl around the rooms. You could spend a great deal of time here!
The tour through the rooms ends at the tiny bedroom where John Keats died on February 23, 1821 at the age of just 25. It’s astonishing how he was able to compose so much sublime poetry in so few years. The museum includes plenty of information in English and Italian about Keats, his life, his tragic death, and of course his poetry.
Was it a vision, or a waking dream? Fled is that music:—Do I wake or sleep?
From Ode to a Nightingale
Here is the bed on which Keats died.
Byron’s Bicentenary
At first, I was mystified by the several banners related to Byron on display in the main library. After all, it’s the Keats-Shelley House. The very friendly and knowledgeable attendant told us that the House is celebrating the Bicentenary of Byron’s death in 1824.
His poetry is figured prominently on red banners. I haven’t read Byron for many years, so it was a real treat to reacquaint myself with some of his poetry.
We had a great chat with the attendant about the poets, Mary Shelley and her mum Mary Wollstonecraft, and the arts in general.
I mentioned that I’d interviewed Samantha Silva, author of Love and Fury about Mary Wollstonecraft on The Art In Fiction Podcast. Since the attendant was obviously interested in the era, I figured she may want to read the novel (highly recommended, by the way). She was delighted to learn about it and promised to look up the podcast.
I also told her about my novels and gave her one of my bookmarks because, well, marketing.
The Terrace at the Keats-Shelley House
A highlight of a visit to the Keats-Shelley House is walking out on to the sweet little terrace overlooking the Spanish Steps. Imagine Keats and the gang sitting out there on a warm May afternoon sipping tea and talking poetry!
It’s pretty cool to think that the view Keats saw wasn’t all that dissimilar to the view we see today.
The house included drawings of the Piazza Spagna and the steps in the early 19th century, and indeed, not much has changed if you look above the ground floor shops.
The Gift Shop
After thoroughly enjoying touring the rooms, we exited via the gift shop. I couldn’t resist buying myself a cloth bag with a Grecian Urn on it, homage to Keats’s Ode to a Grecian Urn.
I also studied the collection of fridge magnets. We’ve taken to buying them most places we visit. Back home, our fridge door is getting pretty full up, but there’s always room for one more, or in this case, three.
I couldn’t decide which magnet to buy–Keats, Shelley, or Bryon–and so I bought all three.
Here they are–Keats on the left, Shelley in the middle, and Byron on the right. These guys were all in the twenties and early thirties when they were hanging out together, and all three died young.
They’re a bit like the rock stars of their time–living with unbridled passion and energy that burned out quickly, but wow, what a legacy they each left in their wake!
Keats-Shelley House FAQs
Here are some questions I’ve been asked about visiting the Keats-Shelley House in Rome:
Is the Keats-Shelley House worth visiting?
Yes, especially if you enjoy literature, history, or quiet, meaningful museums. The house offers a moving glimpse into Keats’s final days and showcases rare artifacts from Keats, Shelley, Byron, and other Romantic poets.
How long does it take to visit the Keats-Shelley House?
Most visitors spend 45–60 minutes exploring the rooms, reading the displays, and browsing the library and exhibitions.
Where is the Keats-Shelley House located?
It is directly at the base of the Spanish Steps in Piazza di Spagna. You’ll find the entrance door immediately to the right of the Steps.
What is the significance of the Keats-Shelley House?
The museum preserves the room where John Keats died in 1821 and houses one of the world’s finest collections devoted to the English Romantic poets.
Is the museum suitable for kids?
Yes, but it’s a quiet, contemplative space. Teens studying literature usually enjoy it most.
What else can you combine with this visit?
The Spanish Steps, Piazza di Spagna, Babington’s Tea Rooms, the Propaganda Fide complex, the Trinità dei Monti, and Via Condotti.
Conclusion
Have you visited the Keats-Shelley House in Rome? What did you think Share your impressions in the comments below for other Artsy Travelers.
Artsy Tours in Rome
I couldn’t find any literary-themed tours in Rome on GetYourGuide, so here’s a selection of tours related to music and also a tour of locations mentioned in Dan Brown’s Da Vinci Code series.
Note that I include tours listed on the GetYourGuide website because I’ve taken and enjoyed many of their tours.
You’ve arrived in Rome! Maybe you’ve been lucky enough to have your taxi whisk you past the Colosseum on your way to your accommodations.
There it is! It’s huge! OMG!We’re in the Eternal City!This is SO cool!
Yes, the Colosseum is amazing, and visiting it is one of the great travel experiences of a lifetime, but only if you do it right.
You don’t want to be one of those first-time visitors who shows up without a timed-entry ticket or joins an overcrowded tour that rushes you past the very things you came to see.
Before you visit one of Rome’s most iconic destinations, check out these Colosseum mistakes to avoid and learn some smart, practical tips for how to visit the Colosseum without wasting time, money, or energy.
Think of this post as your personal list of Colosseum dos and don’ts, including essential Colosseum skip-the-line tips, advice on the best tickets, and what to expect once you’re inside.
Also enjoy my first-person account of a Colosseum tour that did not go so well. Learn from my mistakes!
Quick Facts – How to Visit the Colosseum (Without the Usual Mistakes)
Best time to visit: First entry of the morning or after 4 pm
Best entrance: Stern Gate for guided tours; main entrance for standard tickets
Visit duration: 2–3 hours for all three sites
Common mistakes to avoid: Arriving without a timed ticket, starting at the Forum first, booking a mid-day tour, not bringing ID for tickets, not understanding what each ticket includes
Top Mistakes People Make (And What to Do Instead)
Mistake #1: Arriving without a timed-entry ticket What to do instead: Book ASAP — especially April–October.
Mistake #2: Visiting mid-day What to do instead: Go early morning or late afternoon.
Mistake #3: Thinking a standard ticket includes the Arena or Underground What to do instead: Choose your ticket carefully based on interest.
Mistake #4: Entering the Forum first What to do instead: See the Colosseum first while your energy is high.
Mistake #5: Booking a mediocre tour What to do instead: Pay more for small-group or private tours.
Since my first visit to Rome a few decades ago, I’ve popped into the Colosseum four times. Three of those visits were great.
The most recent one was a nightmare.
The Colosseum itself hasn’t changed much apart from some restoration work over the decades. It’s still a massive ruin that, while impressive, bears little similarity to the magnificent original built over two thousand years ago.
Earthquakes, looting, and the general wear and tear of two millennia, not to mention the shuffling feet of millions and millions of visitors, have taken their toll.
What has changed for visitors in recent years is just how incredibly crowded the Colosseum has become. The Colosseum ranks as the number one tourist attraction in Rome. Even St. Peter’s and the Vatican aren’t that crowded (although they are pretty much overrun).
I have no way of knowing for sure, but I got the feeling during my most recent visit to the Colosseum that many people are ticking it off their must-see list, whether they are enjoying it or not.
What a shame! Rome is so much more fabulous than the Colosseum.
The Colosseum is amazing, for sure. But is it worth your time to go inside when you can snap a photo like the one below with zero effort?
Should You Visit Rome and Not Go to the Colosseum?
Gasp! Should you do it? If you want to enjoy this marvelous city and you’re visiting between April and October, then, quite frankly, you may want to skip visiting the Colosseum.
In this post, I’ll describe my latest visit. You can then decide for yourself if it’s worth several hours of your precious sightseeing time.
Or, would you be better off skipping the crowds and heading for some of the city’s quieter and infinitely more lovely sights such as the cosy Keats-Shelley House near the Spanish Steps?
Signing Up for a Colosseum Tour: Smart Idea or ?
As a savvy traveler (or at least so I like to think!), I know that the early visitor beats the crowds. The two-hour guided tour of the Colosseum I sign up for starts at 8 am and guarantees first entry into the site.
I imagine wandering through deserted passageways, the morning sun slanting pleasingly across the ancient ruins. The only sounds are the murmurs of the guide, a few tweeting birds, and perhaps the whispers of long-gone gladiators wafting up from the cells beneath the arena.
I mean, who starts sightseeing so early in the morning? For sure, I’ll have the place to myself along with a handful of other intrepid travelers willing to sign up for an early morning tour.
My Experience with a Colosseum Tour in May
Here’s how my “first entry” tour of the Colosseum panned out. Your experience may be different (and I hope it is!).
Finding the Tour
Promptly at 7:50 am, I arrive at the meeting point across the street from one of the entrances to the Colosseum and the Roman Forum. A small crowd of at least fifty people all proffering cell phones is my clue that I’m in the right place.
I wait patiently for the beleaguered guide to check my phone, declare me valid, and press a small white sticker onto my chest. It’s now about 8:10 am, so obviously the tour doesn’t actually start at 8 am.
While waiting, I snap a photo of the Roman Forum across the street. It looks splendid in the early morning sun of one of the first really warm days I’ve experienced in Rome in early May.
Waiting to Enter the Colosseum
Several minutes later, we are ushered across the road to the entrance gate and told that the ticket takers open at 8:30 and that we will be first! (said with enthusiasm, like it is a rare treat and not what we’ve signed up for).
Ticket takers? I’d neglected to read the fine print of the tour. The cost of the tour I purchased does not include the cost of entry into the archaeological site which includes the Forum and Palatine Hill in addition to the Colosseum.
A word of warning: Check what’s included in your tour and choose a tour that includes the entry cost so the guide already has your tickets.
Lesson learned, I prepare to wait in line until the ticket booths open at 8:30–another fifteen minutes. Fortunately, I’m near the front of the line and the guide has assured us that we’ll be first into the Colosseum.
Isn’t that worth waiting a few extra minutes for?
Remember the tweeting birds, the silence of the ancient stones, the gladiator ghosts reminiscing about gladiator fights, the glorious isolation!
Buying a Ticket to the Colosseum
At precisely 8:40 am, the ticket takers open the two wickets and the first people in line eagerly step forward to buy their tickets. Yahoo! The line will surely go quickly and I’ll be inside the Colosseum communing with history and getting tons of inspiration for my next novel in no time flat.
8:50 am: The first people in line are still at the ticket booth.
9:00 am: The first people in line are still at the ticket booth. Oh wait! One of the groups has left and another couple has stepped forward. But at the other booth, the same four people are still talking with the attendant. What can they be talking about? What’s the holdup? Are they sharing recipes? Have they found a long-lost cousin? What gives?
The guide comes by and tells us to have our passports out and ready to show the ticket takers. What? I don’t have my passport with me although fortunately I do have my driver’s license. I ask the guide if that will do. Yes. Phew.
Important: Take along a copy of your passport when you visit sites and take tours in Rome.
Another five minutes goes by and the first group of four finally leaves the booth. They are looking weary but relieved. I want to ask them what went down, but of course I don’t dare risk losing my place in line.
The next group steps forward. I take to counting to gauge how long they stay at the booth. Sixty seconds, another sixty, another sixty…five minutes and they’re done. Another ten minutes goes by during which time a few more groups get to the booth and then several minutes later step away, tickets in hand.
The per wait time is marginally decreasing.
Progress is being made.
My Turn Getting Tickets for the Colosseum
Finally, it’s my turn. I’m about to find out why it takes almost five minutes to process each person in a line that is now stretching back to the road and a considerable way along it. Did all these people book a group tour that required them to buy tickets?
I find out later that yes, they are all group tour people. The “regular” people who just want a ticket to the Colosseum without a tour buy their tickets at another booth. I’ll soon discover that many, many hundreds of them get inside the Colosseum long before we arrive.
So much for us being first!
Anyway, I’m at the booth.
“One for the Colosseum, per favore.”
“One?”
“Si.”
The attendant shakes her head as if to say what kind of a loser visits the Colosseum all by themselves first thing in the morning? I don’t share that my husband has elected to do the smart thing and spend a leisurely morning enjoying cappuccino and a walk about the chic ‘hood we’re staying in up near the Piazza del Popolo.
Instead, I push my driver’s license under the glass barrier and she places it in front of her keyboard. Then, with two stiff fingers, she laboriously starts to type. No wonder this whole process is taking forever! She has to physically enter the ID for every single person in line and she can’t touch type.
Oh dear.
After about two minutes (possibly a record), she hands me back my driver’s license, I pay with my credit card, and then I go stand with my fellow line waiters for the tour to begin.
It’s now 9:30 am, and remember, I arrived at 7:50 for the first entry tour. Sigh.
Starting the Tour of the Colosseum–Almost
Promptly at 9:45 am, only 1 hour and 45 minutes past the tour start time, our guide leads those of us who have Colosseum tickets marked 9:15 am to another loooooong line.
This is the line for all the Skip-the-Line group tours. As I said, it’s long.
Security Line at the Colosseum
We wait for another twenty minutes while the guide explains why progress that morning has been unusually slow. I’m at least heartened to find out that the current process is not normal. Apparently, there was a security incident (bomb scare?) a few days earlier, and since May 1 (it’s May 3rd), new procedures using a new security firm are being instituted.
Unfortunately, thorough testing is lacking so chaos reigns as the Colosseum ticket takers are obliged to enter everyone’s ID information into the computer and new security personnel are stationed at the entrances to the actual Colosseum to again check IDs and tickets.
Entering the Colosseum
We finally reach the front of the Skip-the-Line group tour line and enter the outer perimeter of the Colosseum.
It’s big. Really big—much bigger than it looks from the road with massive columns that soar way up into the blue Roman sky. Inside, the arches are truly impressive. Roman engineering is a marvel.
The guide starts her spiel while leading us to yet another line. She tells us that construction of the Colosseum began between 70 and 72 CE during the reign of the Emperor Vespasian. Before then, the area had been a lake on the grounds of Nero’s Domus Aurea (golden house).
Nero was not popular, to say the least, and so the decision to replace his private lake with a public amphitheater hosting thousands of locals was a great way to erase him from recent history.
The next line moves a little quicker. The security people check IDs and then we line up for the security screening. As usual, people walk through the scanner with their pockets bulging with Euros so back they must go while everyone waits. Sigh.
Not Everyone Loves Rome
The guide takes a break from her history lesson and cheerfully asks two people in the group where they are from. They reply that they are from Austria and that never again will they come to Rome because it is horrible and dirty.
I am offended on behalf of both myself and the guide who smiles gamely but I can see is a trifle nonplussed. I mean, rude much? Apparently, the Austrians booked into a hotel that is less than stellar and that has colored their whole opinion of one of my favorite cities in the world.
I want to tell them that the place we’re staying in is absolutely wonderful. It’s clean, spacious and in an excellent location. Here’s the link to our serviced apartment called Viam 6B. It truly is one of the best places we’ve stayed in Rome, ever.
Perhaps the Austrians decided to cheap out. Rome is a fabulous place to visit, but accommodations are not budget friendly. Mind you, that’s true about just about every destination in Europe in recent years. The days of Europe on $5 a day (or even $100 or $200 a day) belong to the middle of the last century.
The guide decides not to ask the rest of the group about their experience. The mood is already a bit iffy considering we’ve all stood in lines for more than two hours for our first-into-the-Colosseum tour and haven’t actually started touring the Colosseum.
We are in it, but only just.
The next line moves a little quicker. The security people check IDs and then we line up for the security screening. As usual, people walk through the scanner with their pockets bulging with coins so back they must go while everyone waits. Sigh.
Climbing to the Top of the Colosseum
And then, finally, we’re in and the tour officially begins. The guide talks to us for quite a while about the history of the Colosseum and then invites us to trudge up three flights of very steep steps to look out over the arena.
We emerge into a surging Sargasso Sea of visitors all packed cheek by jowl along the railing much like the spectators must have done during the Colosseum’s heyday.
Everyone’s snapping selfies (something that wasn’t done during the days of the Roman empire) and I suppose communing with their inner gladiator.
We walk and walk and walk some more around the perimeter to a slightly less crowded stretch of railing, and get our one minute of time to snap pics of the ancient amphitheater. Of course I take a selfie.
Yes, it’s an impressive place for sure. In its day, up to 70,000 screaming Romans watched gladiatorial combat, executions, triumphal celebrations, and other spectacles. Today, approximately 16,000 people visit the Colosseum every single day.
So although the place feels very crowded to me, it is positively empty compared to what it would have been back when the arena floor was covered in sand to better absorb the blood.
The guide talks about how wild beasts were starved for days before being let loose to gnaw on convicts, Christian martyrs, and anyone else the Emperor didn’t like. It’s the odd interesting fact such as this that you get from a guided tour.
Is A Guided Tour of the Rome Colosseum Worth the Wait?
Should you opt for a guided tour of Rome’s most famous monument, check it out on your own, or forget about it and do something that doesn’t involve rubbing shoulders (literally) with thousands of strangers?
You may have guessed my opinion, which is Door #3. The entire tour/ordeal lasted about three hours, with the smallest number of minutes devoted to the tour and the largest to waiting for the tour.
Now, to be fair, the extra security measures ate up a goodly chunk of that three hours. I don’t know if these measures will become the norm going forward, in which case be prepared for waits, or if it’s temporary. You’ll have to check that out before you book.
I don’t blame the tour guide for all the waiting. She was doing her best in difficult circumstances and to her credit remained cheerful and upbeat throughout. I gave her a 5 Euro tip which appeared to surprise her, but hey, I figure she’d earned it.
Most people either didn’t tip or gave her 5 euros for their entire party which I thought was a bit cheap of them. Tips are not required, but I think it’s a good idea to give the guide a little extra considering they probably don’t get paid all that much, and it’s a challenging job at the best of times.
Touring the Colosseum On Your Own
What about the second option—see the Colosseum on your own? I think it may be marginally the better option because you don’t need to arrive at a location two hours ahead of when you get in. Instead, you buy your skip-the-line ticket in advance and then go straight to the ticket line.
Once you’re inside the Colosseum, there’s really not a whole lot to see after you’ve walked as far as you’re allowed around the top tier and taken numerous pictures of the arena below. If your ticket includes an audioguide, you can stand and listen for awhile, but all in all, a independent visit to the Colosseum is maybe 30 minutes (not counting waiting in line to get in).
When To Visit the Colosseum
I think the moral of the story is that whatever way you slice it, sites like the Colosseum are really, really popular. You can try to beat the crowds, but I don’t think in any universe you’ll get around waiting in long lines.
My advice? Either visit the Colosseum during the off-season (November to March) when crowds are thinner, or forget about it and go see some of the city’s other awesome sites.
Tours of the Colosseum
If you do opt for a tour, then GetYourGuide has plenty of tours to choose from. I’ve mentioned several at the beginning of this post.
I suggest choosing a tour that includes a ticket to the Colosseum and the Forum so you won’t need to line up to buy your ticket separately.
Also, you may be better off booking a tour in the late afternoon or opt for one of the evening tours instead of the morning.
Touring the Colosseum FAQs
Is a guided Colosseum tour worth it?
If you like tours than yes, especially during busy seasons. You might skip long lines and you will learn the stories behind the ruins and navigate the site more efficiently. But read my experience and decide for yourself if a tour is for you.
How long does it take to visit the Colosseum?
Plan for 2–3 hours to visit the Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Palatine Hill. As mentioned above, the Colosseum itself doesn’t take long to check out unless you’re doing a tour of the underground and arena floor.
Do I need to bring ID for my Colosseum ticket?
Yes—tickets are often name-specific and security may request ID. Bring a copy of your passport.
What is the difference between the Arena Floor and Underground tour?
Arena Floor = access to the reconstructed stage. Underground = staging corridors, elevators, hypogeum (most historical depth). Both are cool and usually require a tour. Here’s an option with GetYourGuide.
What’s the best time of day to visit the Colosseum?
I didn’t have much luck arriving early, so I suggest late afternoon when the crowds thin and lighting is beautiful.
Are Colosseum tickets refundable?
Most are not—double check when booking and avoid third-party sellers without reviews.
Other Sites in Rome
Rome is chock-a-block full of amazing things to see and do. Here are some of my favorite sites in Rome. You’ll note that I don’t include big ticket items like the Vatican Museum, St. Peter’s, the Pantheon, and the Trevi Fountain, all of which are over-run with visitors.
These are just a sampling. There are also a ton of fabulous churches, some with Roman foundations. A really cool thing to do is take a photography tour of Rome’s churches with Rome Photo Fun Tours. Check out my post to read about my experience (highly recommended).
My Favorite Activity in Rome
For me, my favorite Rome activity is walking around the various neighborhoods and avoiding the bottleneck areas around the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, St. Peter’s Square, and especially the Trevi Fountain.
If you want to experience any of those places crowd-free, either swing by late at night or go for a very early morning stroll.
Here’s a shot taken on our way home after a scrumptious dinner in a restaurant on an atmospheric side street just steps from where we stayed at Viam 6B, which was not far from the Spanish Steps.
Accommodation Options in Rome
I’ve visited Rome numerous times and have always found excellent accommodations, generally in serviced apartments.
Here are four of my favorites from my two most recent trips to Rome:
Sant’Angelo Apartments in the Jewish Ghetto area of Rome, very close to a lot of Roman ruins in addition to the Capitoline Museum and the Piazza Venezia, site of the Victor Emmanuel monument. The apartment was very atmospheric and in an excellent location for exploring ancient Rome.
Viam 6B, located between the Spanish Steps and the Piazza Popolo is in a very upscale and chi-chi part of Rome with lots of designer stores. The apartment at Viam 6B, was very modern and comfortable and included a beautiful outdoor terrace. It was also staffed which is nice for getting directions and ordering taxis.
Torre Capranica is located right smack in the middle of old Rome, steps from the Pantheon and the Piazza Navona. Each of the stylish apartments is contained within a medieval tower. Our apartment on the third floor had a great view of the piazza below. This place is awesome!
Monti Apartments is located in the wonderful Monti neighborhood not far from the Colosseum. This place is spacious, well-equipped, and has an elevator. Its central location is perfect for touring all over Rome.
More Tour Options for Rome
Touring major sites such as the Colosseum and Vatican in Rome can get tiring. Why not take a break and opt for a more relaxing experience, such as this food tour of the lively Trastevere District (one of my favorite areas of Rome).
If you enjoy walking tours, I can recommend the tours offered by GuruWalks. Here are a few of the tours available in Rome.
Conclusion
Have you visited the Colosseum in Rome recently and not found it crowded? Do you have any tips for how to have an enjoyable visit? Please share in the comments below.
Posts About Rome
To see all my posts about Italy, check out the Visiting Italy page. Here are some more posts about Rome, one of my very favorite cities in the world. I’ve visited eight times, and I’m not done yet!
Fancy taking a cooking class while you’re visiting Rome?
I highly recommend the experience. I’m a huge fan of taking cooking classes when I travel around interesting locales that have unique cuisines.
So far, I’ve taken a market class and a French sauces class (sweet and savory) in Paris, a tapas class in Madrid, and a pasta & tiramasu class in Rome.
In this post, I share my experience taking a Pizza, Gelato, and Suppli-Making class in Rome.
Choosing a Class in Rome
Most cooking classes available in Rome are variations on the pasta/tiramasu class I took on an earlier trip to Rome. Fortunately, after a bit of searching on GetYourGuide, I discovered a pizza and gelato-making class.
Perfect! I signed up on Tuesday for the class on Friday.
EnjoyCooking.com with Crown Tours
I’d taken the pasta/tiramisu class with InRome Cooking, which I highly recommend. But this time, I decided to go with EnjoyCooking.com for the sake of variety and having a new company to write about on Artsy Traveler.
EnjoyCooking.com partners with Crown Tours to offer cooking classes in a lovely, brick-arched space next door to their tour office and across the street from the Colosseum.
The day before the class, I got a WhatsApp call from the company. The family that had signed up to take the class at the same time as me had canceled, leaving me on my own.
Did I want to postpone the class to the evening slot? I could not because in the evening, we had the opening of my husband Gregg Simpson’s art exhibition at Il Leone Galleria in Rome. I was assured that they were happy to still offer the class at the 10 am time slot even if I was on my own.
Lucky me!
Arrival at EnjoyCooking.com
I arrived on Friday morning and was ushered into the cooking space. There was room for eight people in a class so it was much more intimate than the class I took at InRome Cooking which hosted twelve people.
To my delight, there was one other woman in the class. Over the course of the next three hours, we bonded and had an awesome time.
Chef Marco!
But the biggest surprise was meeting the chef. In walked Marco–the same chef who had taught the pasta/tiramisu class at InRome Cooking.
I couldn’t believe it! I told him I’d taken his class and showed him the blog post. He was so excited!
Back again with Chef Marco, this time at EnjoyCooking.com
So that was a great way to kick off the morning.
Over the next three hours, Chef Marco led my new friend and me in a lively, hands on and informative class. I’m always amazed at how much I learn about cooking technique in these classes.
Gelato Making
We started with gelato. I discovered to my relief that the ice cream maker I’d purchased several years earlier could be dragged out, dusted off, and used to make gelato. Who knew?
We heated several pints of fresh milk in a pot over an electric hot plate. Marco informed us that the milk should be as fresh as possible–so fresh that it would spoil after three days.
Of course, getting milk that fresh is pretty much impossible in North America unless you live on a farm, which I don’t. But the next best thing is high quality organic milk.
We heated the milk and whisked in sugar followed by ten egg yolks and grated lemon zest to make limone gelato. The lemons had come from the Amalfi coast and smelled divine.
After mixing the gelato, we poured it into the commercial gelato maker that would produce perfect gelato within thirty minutes.
What an impressive looking machine!
Marco informed us that we would also make raspberry sorbetto to go along with the limone gelato. Sorbetto is even faster and easier to make than gelato.
We mixed water with raspberries and once the gelato was made, we poured it into the gelato-maker (after the limone gelato was done, of course).
Here’s a video of the raspberry gelato being extruded from the gelato maker–an exceedingly beautiful and satisfying sight.
Suppli Making
I had never heard of suppli–a Roman street food that is widely available all over the city.
Marco showed us how to take rice cooked in tomatoes and form it around fresh cubes of mozzarella cheese, then bread and deep fry it. The result was a log-shaped rectangle that when still hot and pulled apart stretched the warm mozzarella cheese.
It was yummy but a bit rich for me at only 11 am!
But when in Rome!
Pizza Making
The main event of the cooking class was making pizza the proper way–like they make piazza in Napoli where Marco was from.
I learned that the pizza dough should be rested for two hours after mixing and then rested in the refrigerator for up to three days.
That was something new to me. I’d always let my piazza dough rise for about an hour, if that, and then cooked it. Apparently, doing so results in dough that is still fermenting when it enters your tummy. Not good!
Mixing the Pizza Dough
We mixed the dough and kneaded it for about six minutes–a very satisfying process. The dough was light and very elastic.
It was then put away to rest and presumably used for a class the next day. Marco then produced dough that had already been rested and risen for a day, and we proceeded to learn how to shape the dough into a pizza.
Handling the soft, pliant dough was such a pleasure. We didn’t learn how to throw it in the air, but we did learn a few tricks I can apply back home.
Baking the Pizza
Another tip I learned was to slather on the tomato sauce first, bake the pizza for about six minutes in a home oven (much less in a high temperature commercial oven) and then add the toppings and cook for another three to four minutes.
Who knew? I also learned that certain toppings such as prosciutto should not be cooked, but added after the pizza came out of the oven.
For best results, I was told that I should get myself a pizza stone so that’s going on my Christmas list for next year!
Topping the Pizza
After baking the pizza with the sauce, we were offered a wide array of toppings to dress our pizza. My companion chose mozzarella cheese and fresh sausage.
I chose anchovies, mushrooms, olives, and of course mozzarella cheese. Here we are making our pizzas in front of the scrumptious assortment of toppings.
Finishing the Pizzas
The pizzas went back in the oven and voila! Within minutes they were being served to us.
The first bites were wonderful–the crust slightly charred and very puffed up (the sign of a good pizza) and the toppings fresh. I managed to get through three pieces before having to give up.
Marco thoughtfully put the remainder in a pizza box for me to carry home to Gregg.
After pizza, we were served the gelato we’d made earlier. OMG!
The limone gelato, in particular, was truly to die for. I don’t think I’ve ever tasted a fresher and more delightful-tasking gelato. It puts the run-of-the-mill gelatos found in gelato stores to shame. As Marco said, it’s all about using the freshest ingredients.
The class ended with me receiving my certificate and posing for a picture with Marco. I was thoroughly satisfied with my second Rome cooking experience in EnjoyCooking.com and Crown Tours.
A smile was on my face as I threaded my way through the crowds of tourists streaming past the Colosseum and Forum on my way back to our comfy little apartment in the Jewish Ghetto.
Thank you, EnjoyCooking.com and Marco for an excellent experience.
EnjoyCooking.com Class
Here’s a link to the cooking class I took through Crown Tours. As I’ve mentioned often on Artsy Traveler, I’m a very big fan of GetYourGuide.
The walnut tree is the reason the Church of Santa Maria del Popolo was built.
Every Roman citizen knew about the tree and the large number of black crows–an unnatural number–that clung to its branches every day. And it was common knowledge that the tree had everything to do with the Emperor Nero.
In the Renaissance, people wondered why the crows always flocked to that particular tree. It was unnerving, especially to the merchants and officials who used the Flaminia roadway which led north out of Rome. They had to pass right by the tree because the city’s walled gate was next to it.
They were convinced that the shiny, black, rustling tree caused bad luck. Mishaps on their various journeys only confirmed this. They became so fearful of the evil that inhabited the area that they finally demanded the Church fathers do something about it.
Every Roman citizen knew about the tree and the large number of black crows–an unnatural number–that clung to its branches every day. And it was common knowledge that the tree had everything to do with the Emperor Nero.
In the Renaissance, people wondered why the crows always flocked to that particular tree. It was unnerving, especially to the merchants and officials who used the Flaminia roadway which led north out of Rome. They had to pass right by the tree because the city’s walled gate was next to it. They were convinced that the shiny, black, rustling tree caused bad luck. Mishaps on their various journeys only confirmed this. They became so fearful of the evil that inhabited the area that they finally demanded the Church fathers do something about it.
Origins of Santa Maria del Popolo
There are many reasons why the churches in Rome were built and many reasons for their chosen locations. The church of Santa Maria del Popolo is located on the site of the walnut tree that grew over the very spot where the despised Nero’s body had been unceremoniously buried some 1500 years earlier. Nero obviously now haunted the place; people had seen him there. Only a church built on that spot would calm the populace. And it needed to be made important. If the Pope recognized the church, it would become a Basilica.
The order eventually came down from Pope Paschal II. The situation had become a social scandal, and this was his official solution. Important artists must be commissioned to decorate its side chapels and ceiling. The artistic works created for it would need to spring from such important themes that even God would notice it.
For the project, the Church recruited renowned artists Caravaggio, Raphael, and Bernini, who all enjoyed fame during their lifetimes. (Well, Caravaggio was definitely known, but not necessarily for his art.) If you’re unfamiliar with these gentlemen artists of the 16th century, I must tell you that they are very famous in the art world. Legendary, even.
What’s Special about Santa Maria del Popolo
In situ is Latin for “in place” and is the term given for paintings, mosaics, frescoes, and sculptures that are still in the exact spot for which they were commissioned, for where they were designed to be. It is always special when one views something in situ, especially a major work.
And that is why I love Santa Maria del Popolo. It lays claim to two Caravaggio paintings, sculptures by Bernini, and a mosaic ceiling designed by Raphael. These creations have remained undisturbed in their precise positions. They could have easily been moved to some world-class museum or other, to bolster their daily visitation numbers and be celebrated at members-only cocktail events that the press would cover with uneducated glee. But something even more amazing happened: the works stayed where they were and as a result are almost unknown.
Location of Santa Maria del Popolo on the Piazza del Popolo
Located a bit out of the way at the north end of Piazza del Popolo, Santa Maria del Popolo sits quietly, without banners or signs. One would never know that it displays mind-boggling, priceless art. The masterpieces are not featured in any special way. You must actually go looking for them.
In the Chigi Chapel, you’ll find products of the genius of both Raphael and Bernini. Raphael obviously based his mosaic ceiling on the most important theme he could think of, The Creation of the World. It is so incredible that even as you are staring at it, your eyes tell you that it’s a painting, not a mosaic.
Raphael, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
Statues by Bernini
All the amazing statues in this chapel are by Bernini. If you’re not familiar with Bernini, you’ll want to check out more of his beautiful statues, mostly notably those in the Borghese Gallery in the lovely Borghese Gardens in Rome.
In the Cherasi chapel, you’ll find the two astounding canvas paintings by Caravaggio positioned directly opposite one another—the sensual Conversion on the Way to Damascus and the gut-wrenching Crucifixion of Saint Peter.
Conversion on the Way to Damascus, Caravaggio, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
The theme of Peter (as in the apostle Peter of Vatican fame) being crucified upside down in Rome as the Bible describes is not a theme that many artists favor. Perhaps that’s because it is simply too horrific. Caravaggio was not afraid of much, it appears, and clearly threw caution to the wind.
Crucifixion of Saint Peter, Caravaggio, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Visiting Santa Maria del Popolo
You’ll be surprised at the lack of visitors inside the Basilica; you may well be the only one. The reason is simply that most people don’t know about the place or what makes it special, even after being featured in Dan Brown’s Angels and Demons.
The Church of Santa Maria del Popolo is located at 12 Piazza del Popolo, next to the north stone gate and is free to enter. It’s open daily with sporadic hours; check their website for the days of your visit: rome.net/santa-maria-del-popolo. Avoid visiting on a Sunday during Holy Mass because you won’t be allowed to freely wander. Phone: Intl. calling: (011) 39-06-631-0836 / Local calling: 06-631-0836
Happy travels,
Andie Easton
Read about Andie Easton and her wonderful series of books!
Three full days in Rome doesn’t come close to doing justice to the Eternal City, but it’s better than one day.
After all, Rome wasn’t built in a day so don’t try to see all of it in a day. You’ll exhaust yourself and come away feeling ripped off.
Rome deserves time. It’s a city that overwhelms, but in the best possible way. Around every corner lies another ancient ruin, Baroque fountain, or tempting trattoria.
If it’s your first time in the Eternal City and you have just three days, this post will help you make every moment count.
It includes tips for visiting the top sites: the Colosseum and Roman Forum, St. Peter’s, and the Vatincan, but also leaves time for sipping espresso in a sunny piazza, and exploring some off-the-beaten path gems.
I’ll show you how to organize your time so you see Rome’s essential sights without feeling rushed—complete with skip-the-line tours, transport passes, and tips on where to stay, eat, and soak up that unmistakable Roman magic.
I’ve visited Rome many times, and consider it one of my favorite European cities. On every visit, I find something new to enjoy.
Quick Facts – 3 Days in Rome
Best time to visit: April-May and mid-September to October for lighter crowds and pleasant weather
Ideal number of days: 3 full days to cover the highlights at a relaxed pace
Must-book tours/passes: skip-the-line Colosseum & Roman Forum, Vatican Museum & Sistine Chapel, city sightseeing bus or metro day pass.
Best neighbourhoods to stay: Monti (close to Colosseum), Trastevere (evening/night charm), near Spanish Steps / Piazza del Popolo (central and elegant).
Daily walking estimate: ~5-8 km each day (comfortable shoes essential).
Where to Stay in Rome for 3 Days
Here are the three areas I recommend you stay in while visiting Rome:
Monti – right by the Colosseum & Forum and well served by buses and taxis; book an apartment and settle in as a temporary local.
Piazza Navona – a bit crowded, but right in the center of the action. Check out Torre Capranica for a great stay in a 14th century renovated tower.
Spanish Steps / Piazza del Popolo area – more elegant, great for exploring via foot, upmarket hotels. I loved Viam 6B – spacious suites, some with terraces.
Why Visit Rome?
Visit Rome because, for many hundreds of years, it was the center of the ancient world and has the awe-inspiring archeological sites to prove it.
Visit Rome because it’s the center of the Catholic world and boasts some of the world’s most beautiful and meaningful churches.
Visit Rome because the locals are both reserved and helpful so long as you meet them halfway with a few Italian phrases and a respectful attitude.
Visit Rome to wander through fabulous museums such as the Capitoline, the Etruscan Museum (my favorite), and more.
Visit Rome to enjoy some of the world’s most beautiful art, from the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican to the Bernini sculptures at the Borghese Museum to Michelangelo’s Pieta in St. Peter’s Basilica.
Visit Rome to enjoy quiet dinners in tucked away piazzas where most of the conversations at the tables around you are in Italian.
Visit Rome to wander back streets that don’t look like they’ve changed for centuries.
Don’t even think about trying to “do” Rome in a single day—or worse, in a rushed afternoon between flights. You’ll only see the crowds, the heat, and the chaos, and you’ll miss everything that makes Rome so special.
Rome is so much more than lines at the Colosseum and overpriced cappuccinos near the Trevi Fountain.
Avoid Rome in the middle of the summer if at all possible. Temperatures can soar into the 40’s, which makes sightseeing miserable. Crowds overrun major sites, and people can get very grumpy.
Choose the shoulder seasons to visit Rome: April and May or September and October. I’ve also visited Rome in December and it was marvelous. Sunny days and crisp, cold nights allowed for exhilarating sightseeing with far fewer crowds.
No matter when you visit, you’ll need advance tickets for the big ticket sites: the Colosseum & Forum and the Vatican Museum. Here are some options:
There are three ways to get to Rome: by car, by train, and by plane. You could also walk, but the last kilometers into the city probably wouldn’t be very scenic!
Driving to Rome
Do not even attempt to drive in Rome. First off, you’ll get a ticket and a hefty fine for driving into the ZTL (the Traffic Limited Zone) and second, you may get overwhelmed by the heavy traffic.
I drove once into Rome to an apartment I’d rented near the Vatican. Fortunately, I didn’t drive into the ZTL, but we did get into a horrendous traffic jam. As soon as I saw a “P” for Parking, I pulled into the garage and parked the car for the full week of our stay.
If you’re driving, park your car on the outskirts of Rome in a secure lot. I use the Parclick app (highly recommended) to find a suitable parking lot at a reasonable price.
Choose a secure, staffed lot with a good rating, navigate to it, park your car, give the keys to the attendant, and then take a taxi to your accommodations in Rome.
Avoid the temptation to stay at a cheaper hotel on the outskirts, even if it includes free parking. You’ll spend half your day commuting to and from central Rome, which is not a great use of your sightseeing time.
See below for more about recommended neighborhoods to stay in central Rome.
Arriving in Rome by Train
If you’re taking the train, you’ll arrive at Rome Termini train station. From there, you can take a taxi to your accommodation.
Arriving in Rome by Plane
Rome’s Fiumicino airport is about 30 km from central Rome. The easiest way to get from the airport to your accommodation is to take a taxi for a flat fixed rate of €48 for all journeys that end within the Aurelian Walls, which is pretty much anywhere within the city center.
The fastest way if you don’t have a lot of luggage is to take the Leonardo Express, which runs every 15 minutes and takes around 32 minutes to get to Termini station.
Here are some options fo purchasing your transport from the airport into Rome in advance:
On a solo trip to Rome, I booked a private transfer from the airport to my accommodation near the Borghese Gardens. A guy carrying a sign with my name on it met me, picked up my case, ushered me outside to his air conditioned car, and an hour later after negotiating a ferocious traffic jam, dropped me at the door of my accommodation. I didn’t have to worry about finding the taxi rank or watching the meter chug ever higher since my private transfer was a fixed price.
I’m a big fan of prebooking private transfers, especially if you’re arriving after a long flight.
Getting Around Rome
You’ll walk a lot in Rome, and that’s part of the fun! When you get tired, hop on a bus or the metro, or take a taxi.
I often take taxis because they are easy to find at taxi ranks and are reasonably priced. Taxi drivers skillfully weave through the dense traffic–better them than me!
Busses in Rome are also a good bet. Use your phone to familiarize yourself with the bus routes. I prefer riding the bus to riding the metro (which has limited routes) because then I can watch Rome go by.
You can also choose the Hop-On Hop-Off Bus, which can be good value with access to three circuits with a single ticket. Here’s a link from GetYourGuide:
With only three days in Rome, you need to be strategic. Consider purchasing a pass that also includes public transport. Here’s one that includes skip-the-line access to the Vatican, personalized planning assistance, and entry to the Roman Forum among other sites.
My three-day Rome itinerary provides you with suggestions about what to do and see if you arrive around lunchtime on day one and then spend two full days and three nights in Rome.
Day 1: Ancient Rome
You could easily spend several days just focusing your sightseeing energies on ancient Roman sites and museums. They’re everywhere!
Top of the list are the Colosseum and the Forum, along with the Pantheon and if you have time, at least one museum. My top choices are the Etruscan Museum (my favorite), the Capitoline Museum and the National Roman Museum.
If you have the time and energy, another highlight is the Domus Aurea. You must reserve well in advance of your visit.
Colosseum and Forum
Visit the Colosseum and wander through the Forum fairly late in the day when the crowds may have lessened.
Also known as the Flavian Amphitheatre, the iconic Colosseum has become the symbol of Rome. Construction of the Colosseum began in AD 72 by order of the Emperor Vespasian and was completed in AD 80. It was the largest colosseum in the world with a capacity of 50,000 spectators.
Seeing it now, you’ll be hard-pressed to believe it held that many people.
To be honest, I was a bit underwhelmed the first time I saw the interior of the Colosseum. My imagination couldn’t quite conjure the scenes of wild animals tormenting terrified Christians, which is probably just as well.
That said, you have to see it at least once. I recommend you purchase a skip-the-line ticket in advance. You can also choose a tour, although my experience of taking a guided tour of the Colosseum was not great. See my post How Not To Tour the Colosseum for details.
Another option for your first day in Rome is to book a sunset tour of the Colosseum that takes you to the Colosseum’s underground corridors, the arena, and the first ring of the seating area. Here’s an option from GetYourGuide:
The Domus Aurea is in the vicinity of the Forum and Colosseum. I visited the Domus Aurea in 2001, not long after it opened in 1999 and was able to wander freely around the massive excavated rooms. The site was closed in 2005 and reopened in 2007, with more galleries added in 2015. The number of visitors is now restricted.
Built by the Emperor Nero in 64 AD, the Domus Aurea had 300 rooms and occupied about 50 hectares, and was used exclusively for parties. That Nero was some kind of party animal. Little is left of the palace’s former glory, but a tour there is recommended to learn about a fascinating period in Roman history.
Visit the Domus Aurea by guided tour. Most tours include a virtual reality installation in the Sala della Volta Dorata that I found fascinating. You’ll be transported to an ancient, rich, and magical world.
Tip: Book the Domus Aurea tour as far in advance as possible. Choose a time later in the day and then follow the visit with a late-afternoon/early-evening tour of the Colosseum and the Forum.
Pantheon
The area around the Pantheon in central Rome is always hopping. Visit later in the day when the crowds are thinning, or wait and visit the Pantheon on your second day in Rome when you explore medieval Rome and the Piazza Navona.
The Pantheon is remarkable for its dome, which is still the world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome. Thanks to continuous use for two millennia, the Pantheon is one of the best-preserved buildings from ancient Rome. Originally a temple, the Pantheon is now a church.
See the Pantheon on your own or, for a few euros more, take a guided tour.
After touring the Pantheon, treat yourself to a gelato and watch the world go by from one of the cafés bordering the piazza in front of the Pantheon. I still remember fondly the fig gelato I sampled while visiting the area.
Avoids Crowds and Check Out a Museum
If you pefer to avoid crowds, I’m going to get radical here and suggest you skip touring the Colosseum and the Forum altogether, especially if the weather is hot.
Instead, visit one or two of these three awesome museums, each of which will give you plenty of insights into ancient Roman and Etruscan art and artifacts in air-conditioned comfort with virtually no crowds.
Capitoline Museum (Musei Capitolini)
Twin palaces designed by Michelangelo house one of the world’s oldest public art collection and a must-vsit for lovers of classical sculpture. Highlights include the bronze equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius, the Capitoline Wolf, and the mesmerizing Dying Gaul.
National Roman Museum (Museo Nazionale Romano)
Spread across several locations including Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, Palazzo Altemps, Baths of Diocletian, and Crypta Balbi, the National Roman Museum traces daily life, art, and luxury in ancient Rome. Highlights include exquisite mosaics, frescoes from the Villa of Livia, and hauntingly lifelike marble portraits of emperors.
If you only have time for one branch, visit Palazzo Massimo near Termini Station. It’s manageable, beautifully curated, and blissfully uncrowded.
Here’s one of many magnificent mosaics at the Palazzo Massimo:
National Etruscan Museum of Villa Giulia (Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia)
Tucked away in a graceful Renaissance villa built for Pope Julius III, the Etruscan Museum offers a fascinating glimpse into Italy before Rome’s rise. Its collection of jewelry, pottery, and tomb sculpture reveals the elegance and sophistication of this early civilization.
A highlight is the Sarcophagus of the Spouses, a terracotta masterpiece radiating warmth and humanity. The museum’s peaceful gardens provide a refreshing pause from the bustle of central Rome.
Day 2: Catholic Rome
Rome bristles with churches, some dating back to Roman times and most containing priceless works of art, particularly from the Renaissance and Baroque eras. You can’t see all the churches in one day, and nor should you try!
Focus first on St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Museum and then go back across the Tiber to visit San Pietro di Vincoli and the Basilica of San Clemente.
St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Museum
A visit to St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Museum requires stamina. Line-ups are inevitable even with advance tickets.
You also can’t avoid the long, sweaty trek through room after room of the Vatican Museum before you finally arrrive at the Sistine Chapel.
But the trek is worth it. Just make sure you buy your tickets for the Vatican Museum well in advance.
Sistine Chapel & Vatican Museum
The Sistine Chapel heaves with tourists. There’s no escaping them (and you are one of them!) so just tilt your head back and admire Michelangelo’s ceiling.
My favorite memory of the Sistine Chapel is when I heard a woman behind me say to her companion, “Do y’all think it was done by hand?” I resisted the temptation to turn around and tell her it was paint by numbers.
Buy your tickets in advance to visit the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican Museum.
The Sistine Chapel was restored by Pope Sixtus IV, famous for his patronage of the arts. He also makes an appearance in the TV series Medici, which I write about in a post over on my sister website, Art In Fiction. Pope Julius II is responsible for commissioning Michelangelo to cover the ceiling with his magnificent frescoes between 1508 and 1512.
The Sistine Chapel is not the only attraction at the Vatican Museum, albeit the most famous. Follow the crowds through room after room after room of paintings, maps, sculptures, and more. A highlight is Raphael’s painting, The School of Athens.
St. Peter’s Basilica
St. Peter’s Basilica is a must-see because it is humongous. My favorite part is viewing the size of various world cathedrals marked in the nave. Washington’s National Cathedral is marked at 139 meters, which is about half the length of St. Peter’s nave.
The last time I visited St. Peter’s, the organ was at full volume and wow! Transfixing, for sure.
I love the exterior of St. Peter’s. A gorgeous double sweep of Bernini columns embraces two sides of the square.
A section of the Bernini columns at St. Peter’s Basilica
Castel Sant-Angelo
On your way back over the Tiber to central Rome, you’ll pass by the Castel Sant’Angelo. Also known as the Mausoleum of Hadrian, the site technically belongs with the ancient Rome Day 1 itinerary. However, its location near St. Peter’s and the Vatican makes it a good stop on Day 2.
Originally built to be the mausoleum for the Roman Emperor Hadrian and his family, the structure was later used by the popes as a fortress and castle and is now the Museo Nazionale di Castel Sant’Angelo.
The museum is a worthwhile stop, primarily because of the view of Rome seen from the top. Go at sunset for some great photo ops. The area around Castel Sant’Angelo teems with tourists, so seeing a view like the one below is virtually impossible!
Castel Sant’Angelo in Rome
Cross the bridge from the Castel Sant’Angelo and plunge back into medieval Rome. Stay around the Piazza Navona for the rest of the day, enjoying gelatos and people-watching, or continue your Catholic Rome wanderings by visiting two more churches.
Take a bus or a taxi back towards the Colosseum area to find San Pietro in Vincoli.
San Pietro in Vincoli
Not far from the Colosseum are a few churches worth visiting, particularly San Pietro in Vincoli (Saint Peter in Chains) where Michelangelo’s statue of Moses dominates the side altar.
Whenever I’ve visited this church, it’s been quiet and uncrowded. I love standing in front of the Moses statue and admiring the way Michelangelo sculpted Moses’s hands. Truly remarkable.
Marble statue of Moses sculpted by Michelangelo in the San Pietro in Vincoli church in Rome
Basilica of San Clemente
Located not far from the Colosseum, the Basilica of San Clemente appeals to me because it was built on the site of a house containing a shrine of the Roman god Mithras. An underground passage leads to the excavated foundations of the 2nd-century Roman house. A relief on the altar shows the Persian sun god, Mithras, killing a bull.
The underground area is super dark and creepy, providing great scope for the imagination.
Photography Tour of Rome’s Churches
If you really love churches and photography, I recommend taking a Photography Tour of Rome with Rome Photo Fun tours instead of shuffling through the Vatican.
Rome is not all churches and ruins. It also has the marvelous Borghese Gardens, the atmospheric Trastevere region, and the achingly pastoral Appian Way, several metro stops from the center of the city.
See the Galleria Borghese and the Borghese Gardens in the morning, zip out to the Appian Way for lunch and a lovely afternoon stroll, then end your day with dinner in the Trastevere neighborhood across the Tiber from central Rome.
Borghese Gardens and the Galleria Borghese
Head to the Borghese Gardens and tour the Galleria Borghese. You must get tickets ahead of time. This stunning gallery reopened recently after being renovated. You’ll see some of the masterpieces of the Baroque age, including works by Caravaggio and the famous sculptures of Apollo and Daphne and The Rape of Proserpina by Bernini.
Check out the way Pluto’s fingers press into Proserpina’s flesh and then remember that you’re looking at marble.
The Rape of Proserpina by Bernini in the Galleria Borghese: Buy tickets in advance
Amazing!
After partaking of the Baroque delights at the Galleria Borghese, spare an hour or so to wander around the gardens of the Villa Borghese. On a solo trip to Rome a few years ago, I stayed in a bed-and-breakfast about a block from the park and enjoyed early-morning strolls alongside Roman joggers.
Appian Way
In the afternoon, depending on the weather and your energy level, consider taking the metro out to the Appian Way (Via Appia Antica).
You’re transported from noisy modern Rome to an Arcadian landscape of plane trees and cypresses lining the original Roman road. Rent a bike or just stroll along the stone roadbed, imagining Roman chariots rumbling past.
Gregg and I spent a magical afternoon there, communing with the ghosts of the Roman rich people whose tombs line the road. The peace and quiet soothed nerves that can get a bit overstimulated by the hustle and traffic of downtown Rome.
The beautifully pastoral and peaceful Appian Way outside Rome
Trastevere
Spend an evening strolling the quiet streets of the Trastevere neighborhood. The working-class area still feels authentic and Roman. Find a small restaurant overlooking one of the piazzas and settle in for dinner.
Trastevere is located on the same side of the Tiber as St. Peter’s Basilica, about a ten-minute bus ride alongside the river.
Cobbled street in the charming Trastevere area of Rome
Here’s a good article about what to do and see in Trastevere.
Rome FAQs
Here are answers to questions I’ve been asked most frequently about visiting and enjoying Rome:
Is three days enough for Rome?
Not really, but it’s better than two days! If you focus on the major sights (Colosseum/Forum, Vatican, Pantheon) and book skip-the-line tours, you can get a great overview in three full days. Just make sure you don’t over-do it. Better to skip a site and relax with a Aperol Spritz in a bar frequented mostly by Italians than to spend your time in hot, sweaty line-ups.
What is the best order for sites in Rome in three days?
See Ancient Rome (Colosseum, Forum) sites on Day 1, preferably later in the day when the crowds may be thinner. Explore the Vatican and the Historic Centre (Pantheon, Piazza Navona) on Day 2. On Day 3 check out neighbourhoods (Trastevere, Appian Way) or tour some galleries (the Etruscan Museum is my favorite).
Do I need a Rome transport pass for just 3 days?
If you plan to use metro/bus/or hop-on tours frequently, a 48-hour transport pass can save money and time. Otherwise pay-as-you-go may suffice. If you want to conserve your energy, I suggest getting around with taxis. They cost more than the bus, but they are fast, easy to find and fun to ride. Watch the crazy traffic go by from the comfort of a car driven by a pro.
What’s the best area to stay in Rome for walking around the city?
Staying in Monti or near the Spanish Steps gives you easy walking access to many major landmarks; Trastevere offers a charming evening atmosphere but is farther from sites in central Rome. Staying right down near the Piazza Navona is an excellent choice if you don’t mind crowds and like to be close to the action.
Tours in Rome
Here are some tours offered by Tiqets.com:
And here are some tours offered through GetYourGuide:
Fancy a walking tour? The tours offered through GuruWalks are a good bet. Here are their tours in Rome.
Where to Stay in Rome
If you’re staying in Rome for more than two or three nights, consider renting an apartment. I’ve had good luck with VRBO and booking.com.
When you stay in an apartment, you live like a temporary local, buying food from the local markets, and getting to know neighborhood restaurants and cafés.
Here are some good options:
The Sant’Angelo Apartments in the Jewish Ghetto area of Rome is very close to a lot of Roman ruins in addition to the Capitoline Museum and the Piazza Venezia, site of the Victor Emmanuel monument. The apartment I rented was quite spacious and the location can’t be beat for exploring ancient Rome.
I also recommend Viam 6B located between the Spanish Steps and the Piazza Popolo, a very upscale and chi-chi part of Rome with lots of designer stores. The apartment was very modern and comfortable and included a beautiful outdoor terrace.
I loved Torre Capranica just around the corner from the Pantheon in a crowded but exciting part of Rome. This 14th century renovated tower is staffed by friendly people and includes an elevator.
