Vernazza: Cinque Terra

Visiting Italy: My Best Tips for Enjoying an Artsy Trip

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Visiting Italy? Lucky you! I love Italy so much that I set my debut novel, The Towers of Tuscany, there! Since my first trip to Rome in 1974, I’ve traveled to Italy many times, both on my own and with my family.

In fall 2022, after cancelling three trips planned since 2019, we will return to wonderful Italy and spend time in Rome, where Gregg has an art show, along with Tuscany (always!), Bologna (first time!), Venice, and Milan.

Why Visit Italy?

For the Artsy Traveler, Italy ranks high. Its churches, museums, and galleries are chock full of art treasures from the Etruscans and Romans, the Byzantines and the Middle Ages, and then on through the Renaissance and Baroque eras to the Futurists in the 20th century.

If you want to see an incredible variety of art, you’ve come to the right country.

Detail from the Sistine Chapel by Michelangelo; art like this is the reason why you visit Italy!
Visit Italy to see art like this–a detail from the Sistine Chapel by Michelangelo

Several of the stories in Pastel & Pen: Travels in Europe, the collaboration Gregg and I created a few years ago, are set in Italy, including one of my favorites about an experience at an AirBnB in Siena that did not go well!

Check out Siena Explosion and you’ll see what I mean.

Posts About Italy

Here are my posts about visiting Italy to give you ideas about what to see.

Why Sensational Siena Belongs on Your List of Top Medieval Cities

Why Sensational Siena Belongs on Your List of Top Medieval Cities

What is it about Siena that makes an artsy traveler swoon? Mention Siena to anyone who has traveled there and ...
Carol Cram in Sirmione on Lake Garda in northern Italy

Experience the Magic of a Night in Sirmione on Lake Garda

The tiny town of Sirmione on Lake Garda in northern Italy is truly magical. Stay overnight and you'll have the ...
Carol Cram at Pratto del Valle in Prato

A Week in Fascinating Little Padua Reveals Hidden Treasures

Padua in northern Italy, a quick train ride from Venice, can keep the Artsy Traveler well entertained for several days ...
Top Ten Favorites at the Uffizi Gallery in Spectacular Florence

Top Ten Favorites at the Uffizi Gallery in Spectacular Florence

The Uffizi Gallery in Florence is an Artsy Traveler must-see, particularly for artsy travelers who love Renaissance art. I've visited ...
Tanvi Pathare and the Villa Lena in Tuscany

Free Your Inner Floral Artist at Stunning Villa Lena in the Tuscan Countryside

Ever wanted to paint in the Tuscan countryside? This is your chance! Sign up for a flower painting retreat with ...
Row of cypress trees in Tuscany in the late afternoon

A Tuscan Dream Come True: Sant’Antonio Country Resort near Montepulciano

Every so often when traveling, serendipty rears its delightful head. The plans you've made go awry, but instead of facing ...
A Visit with Tuscan Artist Silvia Salvadori in Arezzo, Tuscany

A Visit with Tuscan Artist Silvia Salvadori in Arezzo, Tuscany

Artsy traveling means being on the lookout for interesting encounters with artists, artisans, musicians, writers—the whole pantheon of creative people ...
Chef Marco at InRome Cooking making pasta

Cooking in Roma with InRome Cooking

Culinary tourism is definitely a thing, and nowhere more so than in Italy. Food tours and cooking classes abound and ...
Venice in Three Days for the Artsy Traveler

Venice in Three Days for the Artsy Traveler

A three-day visit to Venice gives you a flavorful taste of this float-on-water, impossibly beautiful city. I love Venice and ...
statue of Michelangelo's David

Amazing Artsy Sightseeing Choices in Italy for the Independent Traveler

Where to begin when it comes to artsy sightseeing in Italy? In this post I've allocated my favorites in seven ...

Practical Tips for Visiting Italy

Italy is pretty easy to travel around, particularly in the north and Tuscany. The train system is fast and efficient and the main roads are excellent. Gregg, who does pretty much all the driving when we travel in Europe, is always commenting on the high quality of the roads in Italy.

Of course, eating is a major tourist occupation in Italy for good reason, and you’ll find excellent accommodaiton options from super fancy to basic and clean.

What’s in This Post

In this post, I cover some of the basics of visiting Italy–checking events & exhibitions, choosing transportation and accommodations, and tips for traveling safely and comfortably.

To make the most of your visit to Italy, pick one or two regions and stay for a week (or more) in each. You can’t see all of Italy in a two-week trip so don’t try. It’s a big country with an enormous number of amazing artsy sights. You won’t run out of places to visit in a hurry.

For an overview of artsy sightseeing options in Italy, check my post Amazing Artsy Sightseeing Choices in Italy for the Independent Traveler.

I’ve been visiting Italy since 1994 and still have many areas to visit. I haven’t even ventured south of Naples yet, and there’s a LOT of Italy down there to explore!

Check Events and Exhibitions

Before you travel to the major cities in Italy–Rome, Milan, Naples, Florence, Venice–check online for exhibitions and performances. Also be on the lookout for local festivals.

Visit Italy and Relive Its Amazing Past

Every time I’ve traveled in Italy, I’ve come across either a festival where the whole town turns out in medieval garb to participate in processions and other medieval-inspired activities, or at the very least a demonstration of medieval flag-waving.

Procession of medieval costumed people in Italy; a highlight of a visit to Italy is seeing such events and festivals.
Procession of medieval costumed people in Italy

The Italians pay a great deal of loving attention to their remarkable past.

On a day trip to the Appian Way outside Rome, we joined a festival celebrating ancient Rome. Local people dressed as centurions and legionnaires marched in formation, sock-clad feet in imitation ancient sandals slapping the cobblestones, swords clanging, leather tunics creaking.

Scattered around a field were tables worked by people dressed in various Roman costumes and demonstrating Roman crafts—matrons and merchants in simple white tunics; vestal virgins dressed in alluring green togas, hair fashioned into elaborate braids and swirls; the occasional toga-clad aristocrat; even a priest carrying incense and intoning prayers.

People dressed up as Roman centurions (soldiers) and marching on the Appian Way outside Rome in Italy.
Roman centurions marching on the Appian Way
A row of people dressed as Roman Centurions holding shields and wearing helmets.
Roman centurions awaiting orders

While creating your itinerary, search the web for exhibitions and performances scheduled while you’re in a town or region.

When you’re traveling, check local posters, ask your server at dinner, and chat with other travelers about their experiences. In addition to the artsy sights you’ve planned to visit, you may discover several more you might never have heard of that will enrich your visit.

Choose Your Transportation

Italy extends from the Alps in the north all the way south to Sicily, a distance of more than 1,600 kilometers. Driving the length of Italy requires at least three days unless you’re a maniac, and even then, you’ll see nothing more than Autostrada cafés which I don’t recommend.

Where you go in Italy depends upon the time you have available and how you plan to travel. You have two choices—use public transit or rent a car.

Public Transit

I’ve often taken trains in Italy with no problems. The high-speed trains are fast and comfortable. Traveling by public transit works well if you plan to stay primarily in cities such as Venice, Milan, Florence, and Rome.

On one solo trip to Italy, I flew to Rome, took the high-speed train to Florence, and then the bus to San Gimignano and Siena. From Siena, I caught the train back to Rome. While in Siena, I booked a full-day wine tour in a minibus so I could experience quality time in the glorious Tuscan countryside.

Termini Train Station in Rome; taking the train is a great option when visiting Italy
Termini Train Station in Rome

For an account of my day touring wine regions in Tuscany, read Wine Tour in Tuscany: An Unforgettable Day Out.

TIP: If you prefer not to drive in Italy, I recommend combining train and bus travel with the occasional small group tour. You’ll get to see much more of the countryside and have the benefit of a knowledgeable guide.

You can book your train tickets before you leave home. Check the Rail Europe website for schedules and prices.

Renting a Car

The benefit to driving in Italy is that you can get to places in the countryside that are difficult to access by bus or train. A good strategy is to fly or take the train to a central hub such as Milan or Rome and then rent a car.

TIP: Do not arrange to pick up your rental car in the center of the city! Take a taxi to the airport and pick up the car there.

Driving Tips in Italy

Driving in Italy is a challenge because of heavy traffic and because GPS is not always reliable. Take along paper maps and learn patience. We gotten lost almost as often using GPS in recent years as we used to when we had only maps.

The drivers in Italy are capable but fast. After all, this is the country that makes Ferraris and Lamborghinis. Gregg is convinced that every male Italian driver fancies he’s competing in the Grand Prix while on his way to pick up pasta for the evening meal.

Speed limits sometimes feel like guidelines but don’t ignore them. Speed traps exist and you won’t know you’ve crossed the line until you get a bill in the mail after you arrive home.

SUPER TIP: Never (and I mean never!) attempt to drive into the centro (center) of an Italian town, particularly a medieval hill town. First, you risk getting a stiff fine (being a tourist is no excuse), second, you risk ripping one or both of your side mirrors off your rental car, and third, you risk never again speaking to your partner.

Find the parking lot outside the town and walk. If you’re in Tuscany or Umbria, you’ll likely be walking uphill because most towns are hill towns. Fortunately, some towns such as San Gimignano and Orvieto thoughtfully provide an elevator to take you from the car park to the town. Others don’t, but if you’re going to travel in Italy, even by car, you need to be up for some good, stiff walking.

Driving into Italy from Austria, Switzerland, and France

Thanks to the Alps, you don’t have many options for driving into Italy from the north. The three main options for travel from northern Europe south into Italy from Austria, Switzerland, and France are:

  1. Drive through Austria and enter Italy through the Brenner Pass. Then tour the Dolomites and Bolzano before carrying on to Venice (see the green numbers on the map below).
  2. Drive through Switzerland, cross the Italian border at Lugano and then head south to Lake Como and Milan (purple numbers on the map).
  3. Drive through France via Mont Blanc into Italy, then spend a day or two in Turin (see the blue numbers on the map).

From the south of France, drive the extremely scenic route from Nice to Genoa (see the red numbers on the map) and then on to Florence and Rome.

Map created with Wanderlog, a travel planner on iOS and Android

Choose Where to Stay While Visiting Italy

With one notable exception, we’ve always enjoyed wonderful accommodations in Italy. From modest two-star pensions to apartments on HomeAway and four-star splurges, we’ve experienced excellent service, comfortable rooms, and good breakfasts.

Accommodation Budget

Budgetwise, Italy is in the moderate range, although you can pay a lot for luxury. On average, we pay €100 a night for a comfortable three-star hotel and about €120 for a four-star hotel.

Prices are higher in tourist places such as Florence and Venice. I suggest spending the extra money to get a nice place in a good location that’s close to the action. Sure, you can get bargains at hotels on the mainland but who wants to commute to Venice? Wandering around Venice at night is one of Europe’s great travel experiences.

Recommended Places to Stay in Italy

For my accommodation recommendations in Italy, read Recommended Places to Stay in Italy That Will Make Great Memories. You’ll find wonderful properties in all the areas described on this page and in the related posts.

I use services such as booking.com and Trivago to book your accommodations in Europe. All your reservations are kept together in one place when you download the service’s app.

Booking.com

I also recommend using companies such as HomeAway to book stays of a week or more. We’ve had excellent apartments in both Rome and Venice when we’ve booked through HomeAway.

Eating in Italy – A Highlight of Your Trip

The Italians love food and are masters at preparing it. You won’t go hungry in Italy although you may get tired of pasta and pizza. Salads are not easy to come by (the insalata mista or green salad usually isn’t much to write home about), and if you’re gluten intolerant, you may be challenged to eat well in Italy.

That said, embrace the different cuisines of Italy. You’ll find excellent seafood in the Veneto, tender beef in Tuscany, risotto in Milan, spaghetti Bolognese in Bologna, Carbonara in Rome, and on and on. We’ve had some of the most memorable meals of our travels in Italy.

To eat well in Italy as opposed to choking down microwaved pasta (oh yes, some restaurants serve that), check reviews and menus online and make reservations. We’ve never failed to have a great meal when we’ve done that.

TIP: When you order a pizza in Italy, expect to get a large plate-sized, thin-crust pizza as a single serving. Gregg and I often split one pizza and one order of pasta. We’ve found that servers in Italy do not at all mind if you tell them you’re planning to share.


Tours to Take While Visiting Italy

I enjoy taking local tours when I travel and favor small group, specialty tours. I avoid the big bus tours and search for tours that will take me to places I may not be able to visit on my own.

One of my more memorable small group tours was a wine tour of Tuscany I took while staying on my own in Siena. The tour took myself and four other people plus the very knowledgeable guide to vineyards in Montalcino and Montelpulciano and included a gourmet four-course lunch at a charming medieval village.

Find local tours if you can, particularly walking tours. Here are some options for tours in Italy.

Conclusion

Have you traveled in Italy? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.

Here are some posts to read next to help you plan and enjoy your time in Italy: