Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam: Guaranteed Thrills for the Artsy Traveler
I first visited the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam in 1970 and remember it as a gloomy, rather dingy place. The famous Night Watch by Rembrandt was so dark as to be virtually invisible, and I don’t recall seeing any of the amazing objets d’art, from porcelain violins to full-size doll houses, that we saw on my most recent visit.
On my trip to Amsterdam in September 2023, the newly renovated Rijksmuseum is a total delight.
It’s even more amazing than the Van Gogh Museum, although I suppose it’s not fair to compare! But the main thing to keep in mind is that you’ll need considerably more time to tour the Rijksmuseum than you will for the Van Gogh Museum.
In this post, I share my favorite pieces at the Rijksmuseum, a must-visit for Amsterdam-bound artsy travelers; make sure you reserve well in advance (more on that later).
Overview of the Rijksmuseum
The most important thing to remember about the Rijksmuseum is its marvelous scope. Yes, there are many, many paintings, including a respectable number of Dutch and Flemish Old Masters, but there are also many, many rooms full of other “stuff”, from model ships to wood sculptures to doll houses. You could spend days exploring.
Location of the Rijksmuseum
The map below shows the location of the Rijksmuseum (#1) in Amsterdam’s Museumplein, easily reached from the Centrum via trams 2 or 12. Also shown is the location of the Van Gogh Museum (#2) next door, and the location of the charming apartment we stayed in on tiny Sint Nicholastraat in the lively Centrum area (#3). Called Here’s Lucy, it’s highly recommended if you’re looking for a private one-bedroom apartment and a much better deal than any hotel I’ve ever stayed at in Amsterdam. The location, not far from the Central Station and the Damrak, is pretty much perfect.
Medieval Art at the Rijksmuseum
The first room we enter features art from the Middle Ages—and wow! I have a soft spot for art from this period that spans from 1100 to about 1500, and the Rijksmuseum has a superb and varied collection. Here are a few of the knockout pieces.
Wood Sculptures
The figures in this wood sculpture were created in 1475 from a hunk of oak and formed part of a large altar. It depicts the adoration of the newborn child by the Virgin, Joseph and the angels. Check out the detail and the expressions on the faces.
This amusing sculpture from around 1380 of a monk who can barely see over the edge of the pulpit is actually a medieval ink pot. The scribe dipped his pen or quill in the sleeves of the monk’s habit.
And look at this gem of a sculpture that dates from 1520 – closer to Renaissance than medieval. It’s one of three related pieces. This one depicts the celebration of Mass with Christ. Check out the bread Christ holds in his hands and also the impassive look on the servant girl’s face.
One of the reasons I like medieval art so much is because it depicts the elaborate gowns worn by both men and women, but particularly women. This wooden sculpture is one of 24 similar-sized sculptures that ringed the tomb of Isabella of Bourbon, the wife of Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy. She died in 1465. The figures represented mourning family members and ancestors and were known as “weepers”.
Renaissance Paintings
While most of the paintings in the medieval and Renaissance rooms at the Rijksmuseum were created in the low countries, this depiction of Mary Magdalene comes from Italy and is an example of the International Gothic style. I’m quite taken by the elaborate coiffure and the beautiful way in which the red gown is rendered.
This landscape depicts an episode in the conquest of America and was painted in 1535 not long after the conquest. The painting is the first to depict Spanish soldiers subduing the people who lived in the “new world.” Jan Jansz Mostaert, the painter, created a traditional European landscape and then added a few exotic elements—a monkey, a porcupine, and some parrots— to show that the landscape was not in fact European.
Dutch Ships at the Rijksmuseum
Several rooms are devoted to displaying models of Dutch ships. They are remarkable! This model of a Dutch warship in the late 17th century was made at the same dockyards where real warships were built. It’s about one/twelfth life-size. The real ship would have had 74 guns. I am particularly taken by the elaborate decoration and the sheer size of the stern area where presumably the captain would have his quarters. I doubt conditions were quite so luxurious for the regular sailors.
Here’s another view of the many ship models in the Rijksmuseum.
Masterworks at the Rijksmuseum
Most visitors to the Rijksmuseum make a beeline for the “Hall of Honour” which includes several paintings by Rembrandt and Vermeer–probably the two most famous Dutch artists.
The Night Watch by Rembrandt
The Night Watch is displayed in a temperature-controlled structure so we can’t get very close. It’s an impressive piece, for sure, and certainly much better to look at now than it was when I first saw it at the age of 14 when it was almost black. Here’s Gregg checking it out.
And here’s a close-up sans viewers. Thanks to glare, it’s almost impossible to get a decent shot, but you get the idea. There’s so much life and movement in the painting. Everyone is doing something. I like the drummer to the right and the little girl to the left of the guy with the red sash.
The Jewish Bride by Rembrandt
In this beautiful portrayal of a newly married couple, Rembrandt used thick, impasto paint and worked it with a palette knife to create a glittering and sculptural relief. There is a bittersweet quality to this painting. The man looks to be quite a bit older than his bride. While richly dressed, she looks very uncertain about what the future might hold for her.
The Milkmaid by Vermeer
The small, intimate paintings by Vermeer are a big draw at the Rijksmuseum with several groups clustered around them listening to tour guides or audio guides. I managed to sneak through and get this picture of The Milkmaid, which I’ve always had a soft spot for, perhaps because the subject is so humble and yet so exquisitely rendered. She is totally intent upon her task, unaware she will be looked at by millions for centuries to come. This painting also shows how Vermeer was a master of light. You really “get” how great Vermeer was when you compare his paintings to those of most of his contemporaries. While most are competently painted, they don’t glow like Vermeer’s paintings do. He didn’t complete many paintings in his life, but each one was a masterpiece.
The Threatened Swan by Jan Asselijn
This painting by Jan Asselijn is an oil on canvas from 1650. It’s reproduced on bags, mugs, tea towels and other products in the gift shop so obviously it strikes a chord with people. It depicts a swan fiercely defending its nest against a dog. In later centuries, the scuffle was interpreted as a political allegory, with the white swan symbolizing the Dutch statesman Johann de Witt who was assassinated in 1672 while protecting the country from its enemies. This meaning was attached to the painting when it became the first work to be accepted into the collection of the Nationale Kunstgalerij, the forerunner of the Rijksmuseum, in 1800. I’m guessing that the Dutch liked the image of their nation as a swan furiously defending itself.
Still Lifes at the Rijksmuseum
I’ve developed a real fondness for still life paintings—of flowers, kitchen scenes, fruit, and the like. I’m not sure why, but there’s something kind of comforting about super-realistic paintings of everyday things–and the Dutch are masters of the genre.
The Well-Stocked Kitchen by Joachim Beuckelaer
This piece by Joachim Beuckelaer painted in Antwerp in 1566 depicts Christ’s visit to Mary and Martha, although that’s hard to figure out because the action takes place in the background while in the foreground is a profusion of richly painted vegetables, fruit, meat, poultry, and pots and pans. The contrast between the foreground and the background conceals the message of the painting: do not give in to earthly temptations.
Still Life of Flowers in a Glass Vase by Rachel Ruysch
I’m thrilled to discover that this stiff life was painted by a female artist I’d not heard of. Her name is Rachel Ruysch and I have discovered that she was big news in her time. In fact, she was the most famous female artist of the period. Patrons loved her monumental, sumptuous flower still lifes like this one and paid big guilders to own one. Even after marrying and having ten children, Rachel Ruysch continued to not only paint, but also to sign her paintings with her own name. Now she’s an artist I want to know more about.
Later in the gift shop, I buy a stunningly illustrated book about still lifes from the Dutch Golden Age that includes quite a few of Ruysch’s paintings. Unfortunately, the text is in Dutch, but I buy it anyway so I can enjoy looking at the paintings and drawings, most of which are by women artists. It appears that still lifes—and flower paintings in particular—were popular subjects for female painters of the period.
Still Life with Gilt Cup by Willem Claesz Heda
This painting includes an astounding array of grey tonalities. Heda’s palette is subtle—pewter, silver, damask, glass, mother-of-pearl, with a few yellow and ochre accents thrown in for good measure. He specialized in near monochromatic still lifes that were known as “tonal banquet pieces.”
Still Life with Cheese by Floris Claesz van Dijck
Van Dijck really brings the subjects in his painting to life. Check out the ridges in the slabs of cheese and how the pewter plate extending over the edge of the table seems to come right out of the painting. Floris van Dijck was considered one of the pioneers of Dutch still-life painting.
Flower Still Life with a Crown Imperios Fritillary in a Stone Niche by Jacob Woutersz Vosmaer
This impressively named painting is an exceptionally large example of a still life. There’s a tactile quality to the flowers that makes them look like they are moving. And then there’s the wee mouse and the cracks in the wall—real life intruding on the luscious beauty of the flower arrangement.
Porcelain at the Rijksmuseum
The Rijksmuseum includes a lot of porcelain and china. I don’t have the energy to tour all the rooms, but my eye is caught by this tin-glazed earthenware violin. It cannot be played and was made purely as a decorative object. The violin is considered to be an absolute masterpiece of Delft earthenware—and no wonder.
Doll Houses at the Rijksmuseum
One of the rooms in the Rijksmuseum is devoted to showcasing two extraordinary dollhouses. They’re both HUGE! And the detail in the rooms is truly astonishing. Here are just a few of the interiors.
Practical Information
The Rijksmuseum can sell out so buy your tickets online at least a week before you plan to travel to Amsterdam (possibly more during the busy summer months). Most visitors appear to get the audio guide which probably enhances the viewing experience. We did not get it, preferring to discuss the pieces as we look at them. Click one of the options below to purchase your ticket.
Conclusion
The Rijksmuseum is well worth several hours of your time on even the shortest visit to Amsterdam. I would venture to say that it’s even better than the neighboring Van Gogh Museum simply because it’s a lot bigger and has a lot more to look at. But at the same time, the Rijksmuseum is not overwhelming. In my opinion, it’s a perfectly sized major museum to keep me entertained for a good two or three hours, with a wee break at some point to sample a coffee and a piece of cake in the airy cafeteria and of course to check out the gift shop.
Have you visited the Rijksmuseum? What are some of your favorites? Share in the comments below.
