France Archives

Discover Lyon–Friendly, Vibrant & Very French

February 18, 2020March 6, 2023Destinations, France, Guest Post carolcram 3 Comments

Last updated on March 6th, 2023 at 03:39 pm

Discover the hidden gems of Lyon, France’s third-largest city and the center of gastronomy in France.

In 2019, guest poster Liz Reding moved with her husband Michael to France and settled in the charming city of Lyon. Liz shares tips for exploring and enjoying her adopted city.

By Liz Reding

When you travel, do you enjoy seeing and doing things that are a little off the beaten path? I know I do! Mind you, I think going to a grocery store in a foreign country is fun.

In this post, I’ll introduce you to my new hometown–the beautiful and vibrant city of Lyon.

Map of Lyon

The map below shows the location of the sights covered in this post. Because Lyon is relatively small, you can walk everywhere. And when you tire of walking, the public transportation system will get you where you want to go in a flash. It’s cheap, easy to use, clean, modern, and fast!

This map was made with Wanderlog, a road trip planner app on iOS and Android

Lyon Overview

In Lyon, you won’t experience the manic hustle and tourist hordes of larger European cities, such as Paris, Berlin, and London. You will find friendly people, a truly French environment, and a lively cultural scene.

You’ll also find many opportunities for artsy travel in Lyon–from opera performances and fine arts museums to boulangeries and foodie experiences.

View of the Saone River and city of Lyon at sunrise — Lyon just before sunrise Photo: Liz Reding

With a population of 1.7 million, Lyon is a manageable city about the same size as Copenhagen, Munich, and Vienna. It’s one third the size of Barcelona and one quarter that of Madrid.

A UNESCO World Heritage City, Lyon has a rich and varied history and cultural heritage. It was the capital of the Gauls in Roman times, an integral part of the 17th-century silk trade, a pivotal center of French Resistance during World War II, and is now a leader in the development and production of pharmaceuticals.

I’ve divided my guide to discovering Lyon into three sections: Touring Lyon, Visiting Museums and Churches, and Exploring Lyon’s Food Culture.

Touring Lyon

Lyon City Card

Like most European cities, Lyon offers a tourist card that gives you access to most of its museums and all of its transit system. To purchase your Lyon City Card, visit the Lyon Visitor Center at one of its many locations (including Place Bellecour) or purchase it online at Tiqets.com. Durations from one to four days are available.

The Lyon City Card offers free access to the public transportation system and free/discounted admission to 23 museums. You can enter an included attraction once per purchased card.

When using your Lyon City Card, be mindful of what days you’ll be using it. Many museums are closed on Monday. It would be a shame to lose one whole museum use day if your card includes a Monday.

For more information and a complete list of attractions, check the Lyon City Card website.

View of the old town of Lyon from the river — View of Lyon from the Saône River

Lyon Sightseeing Cruise

The Lyon Sightseeing Cruise along the the Saône (rhymes with cone) River is a perfect afternoon/evening activity when you’ve walked your feet off and need some rest and relaxation. Enjoy watching the city of Lyon drift by while listening to the interesting narrative provided by the guide.

Every time I take one of these cruises, I learn something new. If you’re lucky and the weather is fine, you’ll be able to sit on the open top deck and take in some rays along with the sights.

The river cruise is free with the Lyon City Card or €13 per person without the card.

Lyon Sightseeing River Cruise – included with the Lyon City Card Photo: Tiqets.com

For more information and schedules, check out Sightseeing Cruises with Les Bateaux Lyonnais (#1 on the map above).

City Tram Tour

This motorized tour takes you to the Croix-Rousse area (#2) and shows you many fascinating features of this city-within-a-city in Lyon.

The open-sided tram trundles through the village-like streets of an area that was once the silk workers’ district and is now famous for its boho atmosphere, markets, and wall murals (more on the murals later!).

Unlike the rest of the city, Croix-Rousse is located on top of a hill. You can access Croix-Rousse by foot, Metro, or bus. However, taking the funicular is the most fun. If you haven’t ridden one, you really must!

The tram tour is free with the Lyon City Card or €9 per person without the card. Find out more and book your tour at the Lyon City Tram website.

Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon)

The old town of Lyon (#3) is quaint, charming, and full of mysteries and calories. Vieux Lyon is the one of the most extensive Renaissance neighborhoods in Europe, with three distinct sections: Saint Jean, Saint Paul and Saint Georges.

Stroll along charming, narrow cobblestone streets and through the traboules–covered passageways–that are a fascinating historical feature of this area. Have a look at the Gothic-style Saint Jean Cathedral.

Better yet, take a guided walking tour of Vieux Lyon. This two-hour tour in English includes lively narration about the history and culture of Lyon, the history of silk production, the French Resistance during World War II, and Lyon food culture.

Check the Free Tour Lyon website for tour times and more details. The tour starts at 10 am at Place Saint-Jean and runs on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Book ahead or just show up.

Visiting Churches and Museums

La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière

How can you not be awed by this building and the view of Lyon from the overlook? La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière (#4) is one of Lyon’s principal landmarks, visible from almost everywhere in the city.

The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière dominates the skyline of Lyon.

Built between 1872 and 1884 and dedicated to the Virgin Mary, the Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière is a relatively modern structure. The annual Fête de Lumières (Festival of Lights), held in early December, is Lyon’s way of thanking the Virgin for saving the city from the bubonic plague that swept through Europe in 1643.

Highlights of your visit to Fourvière include:

Discovery Visit: Every day from April to November, take a free, 30-minute guided tour of the Basilica; it’s offered in several languages. Check the website for tour times.
Theme Visit: Every Saturday at 2:30 pm, choose one of ten free theme visits to learn about various aspects of the Basilica including its Byzantine and Art Nouveau-inspired mosaics, stained glass, and the altarpieces.
Rooftop Visit: Go behind the scenes of the basilica and take a walk on the roof. The guided Rooftop Tour is free with the Lyon City Card or €10 without the card. Pre-booking is recommended. Check the website for dates and times.
Garden Walk: The beautifully landscaped Rosary Gardens include 1,400 meters of pathways.
View over Lyon: Enjoy the stunning view over Lyon.

Interior of La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière in Lyon showing the frescoed ceiling — Interior of La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière in Lyon

To visit the Basilica, take the Fourvière funicular to Vieux Lyon Saint Jean station. Find information about opening times on the website.

Museum of Confluences

This giant of a building is worth seeing, even if you don’t go in: it’s that dynamic and eye-catching.

The Musée des Confluences (#5) includes a world-class collection of over two million objects from the fields of paleontology, mineralogy, entomology, ethnology, Egyptology, and technology and is divided into three areas: natural sciences, human sciences, and science and technology.

Musée des Confluences in Lyon is a must-see. Photo: Liz Reding

The museum is named both for its location at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône Rivers and for its explorations of the confluences between cultures, animals, and technology.

This monument to modern architecture is a must-see in Lyon. Its detailed and fascinating exhibits are creatively curated. Set aside several hours to explore the many galleries.

The museum is free with the Lyon City Card or €9 per person without the card. Another option is to buy Skip-the-Line tickets in advance.

If you’d prefer to simply enjoy a magnificent view of the rivers and Lyon, you can access the observation deck free of charge.

My husband and I sometimes go into the building just to marvel at the structure. The museum looks completely different depending on your vantage point.

Take Tram T1 to Musée des Confluences. The museum is open Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday from 11 am to 7 pm, Thursday from 11 am to 10 pm, and Saturday, Sunday and public holidays from 10 am to 7 pm. For more information about special exhibitions, visit the museum’s website.

Center for the History of the Resistance and Deportation

This sobering, reflective, and reverent collection is one example of how Lyon commemorates its role in the deportation of enemies of the state during World War II.

The Centre d’histoire de la résistance et de la déportation (#6) is my favorite museum in Lyon. I love its artifacts and how they are presented.

Nearly every time I visit this museum, I encounter a group of students learning about this important time in their city’s history. I’m always struck by the attention they pay and the respect they show while listening to the guide explain the exhibits.

Admission is free with the Lyon City Card or €6 per person without the card.

Display at the Center for the History of the Resistance and Deportation Photo: Liz Reding

The Centre is open Wednesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm. Take Tram T2 to Centre Berthelot stop or Metro Line B to Station Jean Macé. Find more information about special exhibitions on the museum’s website.

Musée Gadagne: Lyon History Museum

Another favorite, the Musée Gadagne (#7) traces the history of the city from the Capital of the Gauls to the present. If you love urban planning and want to learn how Lyon got to where it is today, this museum is for you!

I was surprised to learn that Lyon had the same mayor (Edouard Herriot) for over 50 years–from 1905 to 1940 and from 1945 to 1957.

As you leave this exhibit, you’ll see a beautiful re-creation of a residential parlor during World War II and a film on the history of Lyon during the early 1900s.

Re-creation of a parlor during World War II Photo: Liz Reding

The Lyon History Museum is located at 1 place du petit Collège and is open Wednesday to Sunday from 10:30 am to 6:30 pm. Admission is free with the Lyon City Card or €8 per person without the card. For more information about special exhibitions, check the museum’s website.

Lumière Museum

The Institut Lumière (#8) museum celebrates the achievements of the Lumière brothers (Auguste and Louis) and is located in the house in which their family lived.

Louis Lumière invented the Cinématograph in 1895 as well as various cameras and color and relief photographs. The first film was made in the garden of the house which, at the time, was the largest factory in Europe for the production of photographic plates.

The Institut Lumière produces the annual Festival Lumière every October. If you’re interested in film, you’ll be dazzled by the silent films in this exhibit. The technology on display has been lovingly preserved.

This Lumière Museum is free with the Lyon City Card or €7 per person without the card.

Sign for the Institut Lumière Photo Credit: Liz Reding

The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6:30 pm. For information about location and special exhibitions, check the website.

Tony Garnier Urban Museum

The Tony Garnier Urban Museum (#9) outdoor museum is in the 8th arrondissement (district) of Lyon known as États-Unis (United States). The buildings within the district were designed by the architect Tony Garnier, who worked with long-time friend and Lyon mayor, Edouard Herriot.

Garnier was responsible for much of the infrastructure in the City of Lyon. He designed the social housing development in the États-Unis. Somewhat of a rebel, Garnier wanted to explore new ways of thinking about how to solve modern housing problems.

Huge murals on the ends of housing blocks have turned the area into an open-air art gallery. Many of these paintings incorporate optical illusions that draw you into the action – you can hardly determine what’s real and what’s not. Check in at the museum office to get a map and an audio guide to take with you as you tour the murals.

Here are some of the murals you’ll see in the neighborhood. All photos by Liz Reding.

Mural of a town seen from the air in Lyon

Large mural on the side of a buliding of a jumble of houses in a village in Lyon

Large mural of a buidling with a clock tower on the side of a building in Lyon

Mural showing the interior of a large dairy barn on the side of a building in Lyon

While most of this exhibit is outdoors, a highlight is the excellent indoor re-creation of a model apartment. You’ll find many tributes to Tony Garnier throughout Lyon.

The Tony Garnier Urban Museum is free with the Lyon City Card or €6 per person without the card.

The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 2 pm to 6 pm and closes for three weeks in August. Take Tram T4 to Musée Tony Garnier on 4, rue des Serpollières.

Exploring Lyon’s Food Culture

Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse

Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse (#10) is foodie heaven! And, even better, visiting Les Halle de Lyon is free.

Fortunately, as we all know, food consumed on vacation doesn’t have any calories!

What kind of food will you find here? Buy bread, cheese, meat, fish, poultry, fresh produce, oils and vinegars, wine, and, of course, chocolates and pastries that will clog your arteries and make you happy.

You’ll also find a dizzying array of restaurants tucked in and around the shops. Exploring this amazing place and sampling what’s being served in the restaurants is part of the fun!

Les Halle de Lyon – Paul Bocuse is located at 102 Cours Lafayette and open daily from 7 am to 10:30 pm. Access via Tram T1, stop Mairie du 3.

Huge pot of paella at a food stall in Les Halle de Lyon — A stall at Les Halle de Lyon – Paul Bocuse Photo: Liz Reding

Croix-Rousse Marché

Open every day except Monday, the Marché alimentaire de la Croix-Rousse (#11) is like no other. It’s huge and carries regular and bio (organic) produce.

In addition to the Croix-Rousse Marche, you’ll find a market in every arrondissement in Lyon. Most markets start early in the morning and end around 1 pm.

One of the few markets that opens later in the day is located just above the Metro stop at Place Jean Jaures. This market is smaller than most but offers a wide selection of produce, cheese, and meat and is open Thursdays from 2 pm-7 pm.

What To Eat in Lyon

Hey, you’re in France! Eat lots of bread and pastry … and drink lots of wine! You’ll find boulangeries (bakeries) on nearly every street.

Do I have a favorite boulangerie? Well, some people say that the best boulangerie is the one that’s open and closest to you. I prefer the establishments with signs that say either boulanger or boulangerie, because the products are usually hand-made rather than frozen or pre-made and baked on-site.

Shelf of fresh baked bread at a boulangerie in Lyon, France — A local boulangerie in Lyon Photo Credit: Liz Reding

You’ll have to do your own research to decide which boulangerie is the best.

Purchase wine in any grocery store, even on Sundays. You’ll be astounded by the number of wine choices and how much fun they can be to sample! Of course, you can always find pricey wines, but don’t overlook the cheap stuff.

Our price point is €4 to €8 per bottle, and we’re never disappointed. Also, practice makes perfect!

Although full of attractions and interesting things to do, Lyon remains relatively undiscovered by tourists. You won’t find the museums crowded, and you shouldn’t have trouble finding great restaurants in which to enjoy Lyon’s famous cuisine.

Lyon is considered the capital of gastronomy in France.

No wonder my husband and I moved here.

Check out Liz Reding’s post about cooking classes in Paris and Lyon.

For more information about France, check out the France page and these posts:

Paris for Art Lovers: Nine of the Best Small Museums in Paris

February 11, 2020March 5, 2023Artsy Sightseeing, Destinations, France, Get Inspired carolcram 7 Comments

Last updated on March 5th, 2023 at 04:48 am

Choosing the nine best small museums in Paris to feature in a post about my fave art museums is like choosing a favorite child. It’s impossible and shouldn’t be attempted! But I’m going to do it anyway in the hope of introducing you to some museums that you’ve not yet visited.

You’ll notice I’ve left the three biggies off my list: the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay and the Centre Pompidou. All three are über must-sees, and you’ll find information about them in this post that matches Parisian sights with bistro dishes from my new novel Love Among the Recipes.

But the operative word in this post is small, some may even say obscure! You will find some fairly well-known museums in my list, but you may find several that you have not heard of, let alone visited.

I’ve organized the museums by arrondissement, starting with the Orangerie in the 1st arrondissement and ending with the Marmottan Museum in the 16th arrondissement. The map belows shows the location of each museum.

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a vacation planner app on iOS and Android

#1: The Orangerie

The Musée de l’Orangerie is not far from the Louvre and overlooks the Jardin des Tuileries. I always enjoy popping into the Orangerie to revisit one of the most compelling exhibitions in Paris.

Here, in two consecutive oval salons, you’ll view the eight large paintings that make up Les Nymphéas by Monet. Lit by natural light from the ceiling and oriented from west to east, the light follows the course of the sun.

Detail from a painting of waterlilies by Claude Monet

Monet helped to design these rooms in which his paintings are displayed. He wanted visitors to immerse themselves in the paintings and find solace in their beauty following the horrors of World War I. Monet certainly knew what he was about. Walking through the two salons of the Orangerie feels like being submersed in a cool, blue, calm oasis. As you can tell, I love this space!

Take a virtual tour of the Orangerie.

Visiting the Orangerie

Go to the Orangerie as early in the day as possible to avoid the crowds. Contemplating these incredible paintings is best done in quiet and solitude.

In the first salon, the four compositions depict the reflections of the sky and vegetation in the water from morning to evening. The colors vary from yellows and pinks to greens. I find the paintings the first salon both cheerful and soothing.

But my favorite is the second salon, where the dominant blues inspire a mood of intense calm. Relax on one of the benches and let the beauty of the pieces wash over you. You’ll almost feel as if you’re actually in nature, rather than simply looking at depictions of nature.

After viewing the water lily paintings, check out the rest of the Orangerie. The permanent collection includes works by most of the greats, including Renoir, Gauguin, Cézanne, and Sisley.

Special Exhibitions at the Orangerie

We’ve seen some beautifully curated special exhibitions at the Orangerie, most recently an exhibition of Spanish impressionists. Consult the website to see what’s on.

The Orangerie is located at the Jardin des Tuileries, Place de la Concorde. The closest Métro is Tuileries. Make sure to buy your ticket in advance so you can skip the line-up. The museum is open from 9 am to 6 pm daily except Tuesdays.

#2: Picasso Museum

Situated in the heart of Le Marais, the Musée National Picasso-Paris is home to over 5,000 works in a comprehensive collection that includes paintings, sculptures, and engravings.

Housed in the historic Hôtel Salé, a private mansion at 5 rue de Thorigny, the building has been described as “the grandest, most extraordinary, if not the most extravagant, of the grand Parisian houses of the 17th century”.

You’ll also see sketches, studies, drafts, notebooks, etchings, photographs, films, illustrated books, and other documents that demonstrate Picasso’s creative process.

If you’re a fan of modern art, and Picasso in particular, this beautiful museum will keep you well entertained and informed.

Current Exhibition

Until January 2, 2022, you can see the Picasso-Rodin exhibition at the Picasso Museum. Organized jointly by the Musée national Picasso-Paris and the Musée Rodin (also covered in this post!), this exhibition highlights the cross-overs in the work of Rodin and Picasso, and the major roles both played in the construction of their public images.

The Picasso Museum is open Tuesday to Friday from 10.30 am to 6 pm and weekends from 9.30 am to 6 pm. The museum is popular, so buy your ticket in advance.

#3: Cluny Museum

If I had to choose my favorite art museum in Paris, I would have to say the Musée de Cluny – Le monde médiéval, known colloquially as the Cluny. I enjoy it more than the three biggies for several reasons.

First, it’s manageable, unlike its larger cousins. You can tour the Cluny in an afternoon and still have energy to enjoy the lively 5th arrondissement. Spend an afternoon pacing the massive galleries at the Louvre and you’ll need an hour relaxing by a fountain in the Tuileries to recover.

Second, the Cluny features room after room of outlandishly awesome objets d’art from the Middle Ages–the historical period I most prefer.

Third, you’ll see the gorgeous Lady and the Unicorn tapestries woven from silk and wool in Paris around 1500. Admiring these six tapestries is worth the price of admission alone.

The Cluny will reopen on May 12, 2022 after being closed for renovations for quite a spell. This is good news for me since I’m visiting Paris in September 2022!

What to See at the Cluny

Take a seat in the special circular room that houses the tapestries and enjoy decoding how each of the first five tapestries depicts a different sense: taste, touch, smell, hearing, and sight. And what is the meaning of the sixth tapestry titled À mon seul désir? The jury’s still out, but some say the tapestry represents love.

The sixth tapestry: À mon seul désir Photo: Wikipedia

In addition to the tapestries, the Cluny offers amazing displays of wooden statues, stained glass, objects made from ivory, stone sculptures, and numerous household objects, furniture, paintings… the list goes on.

On one visit to the Cluny, I happened upon a concert of medieval choral music in the sculpture courtyard. Hearing that music while surrounded by the objects made during the same period was transporting. I love coming upon unexpected performances when I’m traveling in Europe. Keep your eyes peeled (as my Dad used to say). You’re bound to discover all sorts of opportunities to enjoy performances in some of your favorite museums and galleries.

Row of sculptures in the Cluny Museum in Paris, one of the best small museums in Paris — Sculptures in the marvelous Cluny Museum

Check the website to find out if concerts are scheduled when you’re in Paris. In the meantime, you can explore the collections at the Cluny on the museum’s comprehensive website.

The Cluny is located at 28 Rue du Sommerard. The closest Métros are Cluny-La Sorbonne, Saint-Michel, and Odéon.

#4: Zadkine Museum

The Musée Zadkine has been called a “folly” in the middle of Paris. On rue d’Assas in the 6th arrondissement and close to the Luxembourg Gardens and hip Montparnasse, the Zadkine Museum was once the studio of Ossip Zadkine (1890-1967), a sculptor of Russian origin.

The small exterior door leads you into a calm, green space that feels miles away from the bustle of Paris. You’ll find sculptures in a variety of media, including wood, stone, clay, and even bronze, along with graphic works and illustrations, photographs, tapestries, and archival material.

Sculpture by Zadkine at the Zadkine Museum. Photo: Wikipedia

Shortly before he died, Zadkine wrote, “But it is in any case very beautiful to end your life with a chisel and mallet in your hands.”

The Musée Zadkine is located at 100 bis Rue d’Assass and is open from 10 am to 6 pm Tuesday to Sunday. The closest Métros are Notre-Dame des Champs and Vavin.

#5: Quai Branly Museum

Not far from the Eiffel Tower but still in the 7th arrondissement and close to the river, the spectacular Musée du Quai Branly Jacques Chirac is a must-see. I never tire of visiting this museum because there is such an incredible number of things (370,000 apparently) to ponder and enjoy.

The Quai Branly houses a remarkable collection of art and objects from around the globe organized into four geographical areas—Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas.

I love this museum’s attention to detail. Interactive screens set up in alcoves around the museum provide in-depth information about specific exhibits. You could spend weeks here and only scratch the surface.

Exterior of the Quai Branly Museum in Paris, one of the best small museums in Paris — Exterior of the Quai Branly Museum in Paris

The range and complexity of the objects displayed is a testament to human creativity through the ages. Set aside half a day to explore this incroyable museum.

Special exhibitions are also featured. On one visit, we saw an exhibition of Picasso’s collection of art from around the world, including Africa.

An exhibition of the Olmecs and the Cultures of the Gulf of Mexico will be on when we’re in Paris in September 2020. I’m looking forward to seeing that!

The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:30 am to 7:00 pm (Thursdays until 10:00 pm).

#6: Rodin Museum

The Musée Rodin in the 7th arrondissement is simply gorgeous. Housed in the magnificent Hôtel Biron and surrounded by three hectares of sculpture-studded gardens, the Musée Rodin celebrates the work of one of France’s premier sculptors.

Check out The Thinker perpetually contemplating life in the garden then go inside and marvel at the statue called The Kiss. Ooh la la! Wander through room after chandeliered room of sculptures—some marble, some plaster, some bronze. The sheer volume and range of work is overwhelming.

Rodin Museum in Paris, one of the best small museums in Paris. — Rodin Museum in Paris

The Musée Rodin is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6:30 pm.

#7: Musée Maillol

In a quiet area of the 7th arrondissement, the Musée Maillol is well known by Parisian art lovers for its special exhibitions but is not as well known by visitors. We’ve seen excellent exhibitions at the Maillol, including an collection of paintings by van Gogh and a spectacular display of paintings by Artemisia Gentileschi.

The exhibitions we’ve seen have featured several walls’ worth of information about the paintings—all in French. If you don’t read French, ask if a handout with an English translation is available.

The Musée Maillol was established by Dina Vierny, an artists’ model who became a famous singer, art dealer, collector, museum director, and Aristide Maillol’s muse for the final ten years of his life. The top floors of the Musée Maillol feature many works by Maillol, including monumental sculptures of female nudes. Maillol’s work is amazing and beautifully displayed. You’ll also find works by several 20th-century artists.

The Musée Maillol is open daily from 10:30 am to 6:30 pm when exhibitions are on (Fridays until 8:30 pm).

#8: Gustave Moreau Museum

The Musée National Gustave Moreau in the 9th arrondissement at the foot of Montmartre is quite the revelation. If you’re familiar with the work of the symbolist painter Moreau, you’ll know that you’re in for a treat. The museum occupies the painter’s family home and includes hundreds of paintings and watercolors showcasing the work of a painter many consider the master of French Symbolism.

Some of the paintings are massive and contain so much intricate detail that your eyes get sore just looking at them!

Salome by Gustave Moreau / Photo: Wikipedia

Jupiter and Semele by Gustave Moreau / Photo: Wikipedia

The museum recently reopened after undergoing renovations. It’s open daily, except Tuesdays, from 10 am to 6 pm.

#9: Marmottan Museum

Located in the stylish 16th arrondissement, the Musée Marmottan Monet is one of the loveliest art museums in Paris. Highlights of the collection are the works by the impressionists Claude Monet and Berthe Morisot. In addition, you’ll see a collection from the Middle Ages, the Renaissance, and the Second Empire, along with paintings by other impressionists, such as Caillebotte, Degas, Pissarro, Renoir, Sisley, and Rodin.

The Sisters by Berthe Morisot; Morisot is one of the artists featured at The Marmottan, one of the best small museums in Paris. — Berthe Morisot, who painted *The Sisters* shown above, is one of the artists frequently exhibited at The Marmottan

The Marmottan is a bit of a trek from the Metro (La Muette or Ranelagh) but worth the effort required to get there. It features a great museum shop (I’m a sucker for a good museum shop).

The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm (last admission: 5.30 pm), with extended hours to 9 pm on Thursdays (last admission: 8.30 pm).

Conclusion

Have you been to any of these art museums in Paris? Do you have other suggestions for artsy travelers? Share your recommendations in the Comments section below.

Here are some more posts about art in Paris:

Top Normandy Sights to Excite Art & History Lovers

February 11, 2020April 29, 2022Destinations, France carolcram 3 Comments

Last updated on April 29th, 2022 at 02:27 am

Normandy has many wonderful sights to offer the artsy traveler. Here you’ll find charming villages, beaches steeped in history, quirky museums, and a tapestry for the ages.

Spend at least a week in Normandy to explore its long coastline and rolling fields dotted with grey church spires.

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Artist-In-Residence in Normandy

A few years ago, Gregg and I spent two months at an artist-in-residence place called Les Rouges en Vert in the tiny village of Soligny-la-Trappe in the Perche region of France. When we weren’t painting (Gregg) and writing (me), we spent many hours exploring a region of France that’s both stunningly beautiful and that has played an outsized role in the history of western Europe.

Here are a few shots of our time at Les Rouges en Vert where Gregg had a painting studio and an exhibition and where I worked on my novel, The Towers of Tuscany.

Normandy is home to more than thirty World Heritage Sites, including Honfleur, Mont St. Michel, the cliffs of Étretat, Caen, and Bayeux, all of which are covered in this post.

List of Must-see Sights in Normandy

Must-sees include, from east to west:

Stunning chalk cliffs at Étretat
Charming Honfleur for the Satie Museum
World War II beaches
Historic Bayeux for the Bayeux Tapestry
Perche Region
Mont St. Michel

Cliffs at Étretat

These iconic chalk cliffs captivated Monet, and they’ll likely captivate you. On a clear day, the white cliffs, needles, and arches shimmer in the famous Normandy light. No wonder Monet painted so many views.

Climb to the top of the cliffs from either end of the beautiful sandy beach to enjoy better views than you’ll get from the beach below. The paths and steps are steep with few hand railings. Vertigo sufferers are advised to admire the cliffs from the beach.

Panoramic landscape of the famous cliff of Etretat, Normandy, France — Panoramic landscape of the famous cliffs of Étretat, Normandy, France

The resort town of Étretat, with its half-timbered houses and outdoor cafés, is a wonderful place to enjoy lunch before or after climbing to the top of the cliffs. You’ll find resort-style shops and even a casino on the beach.

Honfleur

Visit Honfleur to see where many of the impressionist painters were inspired, including Monet, Renoir, Courbet, Pissarro, and native son Eugène Boudin who has a whole museum dedicated to his work.

Honfleur is fabulous! As an artist, Gregg was captivated by the same luminous light that attracted the impressionists. The town’s dedication to the arts continues, with many art galleries lining the streets of the old town.

The other big attraction, since we love music, is the quirky Satie Museum.

Satie Museum

Known as the Maisons Satie, the Erik Satie Museum ranks high on our list of favorite music museums. The museum occupies the entire house in which Satie was born in 1866. Satie was a composer from the early 20th century, a compatriot of Debussy, and active in the Dada movement.

When you enter the museum, you’re given an audio guide that takes you on a sonic and sensory journey unlike any I’ve experienced. Put on the headphones, then walk into any room to trigger a range of music, light, image, and sound effects. The museum even includes a leg-powered merry-go-round to pedal to the accompaniment of Satie’s music.

Gregg rides the music and leg-powered merry-go-round in the Satie Museum — Gregg rides the music- and leg-powered merry-go-round in the Satie Museum

Musée Eugène Boudin

Close to the Satie Museum is the Musée Eugène Boudin. This large museum is worth an hour or two of your time to admire paintings by not only Boudin but also many of his impressionist compatriots, including Claude Monet and Berthe Morisot (one of my favorites).

The museum also exhibits clothes and furniture, photographs from 1880 to 1920, a cool collection of more than 100 tourist posters from 1880 to 1950 advertising the delights of Normandy, and even antique toys.

Staying in Honfleur

Stay two nights so you’ll have lots of time to wander the old town and enjoy the Vieux Bassin, where tall, skinny houses rise above a sea of fishing boats and masts.

Honfleur Harbour, Normandy, France. — Honfleur Harbour – Vieux Bassin in Normandy, France

Pull up a chair at one of the many outdoor cafés lining the Vieux Bassin, order moules–frites (mussels and fries), and watch the world go by.

Honfleur is a popular tourist spot with several good accommodation options for staying a night or two. We stayed at the very comfortable Hotel L’Ecrin.

Another option is to make Honfleur your home base for a longer stay in the area. The location is convenient for driving to Caen, the D-Day beaches and Bayeux to the west, and the cliffs at Étretat to the east.

World War II Beaches

Today, the windswept Normandy beaches invite long walks on golden sands, face upturned to a blue sky arched over white-capped waves. I hadn’t expected the area to be so beautiful, considering the devastation it witnessed just a handful of decades ago.

Caen Memorial Museum

Make your first stop the Caen Memorial Museum near Caen to learn about the D-Day invasion from the point of view of both the Allied and the German soldiers.

Reserve a few hours to browse the comprehensive exhibition of artifacts and films. You’ll leave with a deeper understanding of the Battle of Normandy.

Proceed to at least one of the beaches. We chose Juno Beach, where the Canadians landed on June 6, 1944. If you’re from the United States, you’ll want to see Omaha and Utah beaches farther west.

Visiting Juno Beach

At Juno Beach, a thoughtfully curated museum provides a Canadian perspective on the war and on the invasion.

Most poignant was a film showing a continuous stream of names in alphabetical order of the men who landed on Juno. We knew one of the men and waited for his name to come up, but there were so many that we realized we’d have to wait a long time to see his.

It’s sobering to realize that each name belongs to a young man who, even if he’d survived, would be forever plagued by trauma.

The 54-mile stretch of coastline from Utah Beach in the west to Sword Beach in the east is awash in WWII museums, memorials, cemeteries, and battle remains from the largest military operation in history. You could easily spend several days in the area.

Sign pointing to Omaha Beach in Normandy — Direction sign of Omaha Beach in Normandy

Sign pointing to Juno Beach in Normandy — Direction sign of Juno Beach in Normandy

Bayeux

I was thrilled to finally visit the museum housing the famous Bayeux Tapestry–La Tapisserie de Bayeux. If you’re fascinated by the story of the invasion of England by the Normans in 1066, then you’ll enjoy this fine museum.

The 70-meter-long tapestry is displayed on a special round spool that you walk around to the accompaniment of an excellent audio guide. In the darkened room, only the tapestry is lit. Follow the progress of the invasion—the boats and horses and helmeted men wielding swords.

The story told by the tapestry begins in 1064, when Edward the Confessor, King of England, tells his brother-in-law, Harold Godwinson, to go to Normandy and offer his cousin, William, the succession to the English throne. The story ends with the Anglo-Saxons fleeing at the end of the Battle of Hastings in October 1066, although the last bit of the tapestry is missing.

Description of the Bayeux Tapestry Museum

The tapestry contains 58 scenes, 626 characters, and 202 horses.

What intrigued me about the Bayeux Tapestry was that it was created by women. Some historians maintain that the women embroiderers of Kent did the stitching. How did these women feel about telling the story of their invaders? How did they make the designs?

Some of these questions are answered in the film and museum exhibits you’ll see after viewing the tapestry.

The museum is open daily, 9:00 am to 6:30 pm, from February 1st to December 31st. From May to August, the museum remains open until 7:00 pm.

After touring the museum, wander around Bayeux’s quaint streets and pop into the massive Bayeux Cathedral that dominates the skyline. The Bayeux Tapestry was commissioned by Bishop Odo, half-brother of William the Conqueror, to adorn the cathedral where, for centuries, the tapestry was displayed once each year.

Water mill and Aure River in the old city of Bayeux — Water mill and Aure River in the attractive town of Bayeux

Perche Region

This pleasant area of rolling green hills, thousands of white cows, and grey-steepled churches is not a tourist mecca. It is, however, a popular place for wealthy Parisians to have second homes—and no wonder. The countryside is achingly gorgeous.

Drive around the quiet country roads past lakes and forests and visit some of the charming towns, including Alençon, Argentan, the cathedral at Sées, and L’Aigle. Get out of the car and go walking, make friends with the cows, and visit the Perche Natural Regional Park.

Carol Cram in the Perche countryside in Normandy — Enjoying a walk in the Perche countryside

For Canadians, particularly those of French descent, a visit to the Museum of French Emigration to Canada in Tourouvre is worthwhile. Many of the people who populated Quebec in the 17th century came from the Perche region. The museum tells their story.

Here are pictures of the countryside surrounding the place where Gregg and I did a two-month artist-in-residence stint a few years ago.

Mont St. Michel

Floating off the Normandy coast on the border of Brittany, Mont St. Michel will make you smile.

Mont Saint Michel in Normandy, France — Approaching Mont St. Michel in Normandy, France

Is it real? Did people from centuries ago actually brave the tortuous tides to build the massive, stone-walled abbey?

Indeed, they did, and since its founding in 966, Mont St. Michel has attracted pilgrims and now tourists. Its tiny cobbled streets are clogged with souvenir shops and crowds, but visit anyway. The views of the swirling waters from the ramparts of the abbey are breathtaking.

Park in the new car parks located about 1.5 miles from the island and walk to the Place des Navettes to catch a shuttle bus (passeur) across the causeway to the island.

You can also walk across the causeway to the island. Once there, you’ll climb the steep streets to the abbey. Buy tickets in advance to skip the line.

Inside, you’ll find peaceful cloisters, the soaring Gothic church, and one of the grand chambers, known as The Marvel because it clings spectacularly to the rock.

Traveling To and Around Normandy

Normandy is best explored with a car or on a tour from Paris. A good strategy is to pick up a rental car outside of Paris at Charles de Gaulle Airport and then head west into Normandy for at least a week.

On your way to the locations described in this post, stop off in Rouen to view the magnificent cathedral—one of Monet’s favored subjects.

If you choose not to drive in Normandy, consider taking a tour. Here are options.

Conclusion

Have you visited Normandy? Do you have artsy and historic sites to recommend? Please share your experiences with other artsy travelers in the Comments section below.

Here are some more posts to read next to help you plan and enjoy your time in France:

Take a Cooking Class in Paris

January 29, 2020October 26, 2022Activities, Destinations, France, Get Inspired carolcram 3 Comments

Last updated on October 26th, 2022 at 06:15 pm

Have you considered taking a cooking class while traveling in France? Paris is the place for cooking classes, but you’ll also find classes in other French cities such as Lyon.

Several years ago, guest poster Liz Reding moved with her husband Michael to France and settled in the charming city of Lyon. Every few months, she and Michael take trips to explore different areas in Europe.

Picture of Liz Reding, the guest poster with a meal in Spain — Guest poster Liz Reding enjoying paella in Spain; Photo credit: Liz Reding

One of the things Liz likes to do when she travels around Europe from her new French home is to take cooking classes.

Here’s what Liz has to say about taking cooking classes in Paris and Lyon.

Cooking in France by Liz Reding

Is cooking art? If you’ve ever seen a great chef at work or eaten a beautifully plated meal, I think you’ll agree that cooking is an art form.

Maybe you love to cook, maybe you don’t … but you have to eat, right? So, doesn’t it make sense to spend time perfecting your cooking skills?

Some might say, YES… but not while I’m on vacation. I say, YES, especially while I’m on vacation!

The quality of the local produce, cheese, seafood, and meat in French markets is outstanding. When you take a class taught by a local chef at a cooking school, you learn how to use local ingredients to prepare regional favorites.

Cooking Classes in Paris

Thanks to the ongoing popularity of French cuisine and French cooking, several culinary schools offer short-duration classes designed for travelers.

Paris is the undisputed center for cooking classes in France. Consider spending a morning or an evening taking a class. You’ll meet interesting people and learn new skills and cooking methods.

Several kinds of cooking classes are available in Paris. In some classes, you focus on how to make specific dishes, such as macarons or baguettes, while in others, you cook several dishes which you then enjoy along with a glass or two of wine.

The Market Class

My favorite type of cooking class is the Market Class.

Choose a market class that starts early in the morning and includes lunch or one that starts later in the afternoon and includes dinner.

You’ll start a market class by meeting up with the chef at a local outdoor market. With the help of the chef, you’ll choose whatever is seasonally available and then return to the kitchen to start cooking.

Several hours later, you’ll sit down to the wonderful three-course lunch or dinner that you and your classmates prepared. A glass or two of wine is often included, along with wine-tasting tips.

In some market classes, the chef decides ahead of time what you’ll make. You pick up the ingredients and then head to the cooking school to start learning and cooking. No surprises!

Seafood in a Paris market; photo credit: Liz Reding

Other classes take more of a let’s see what we can find approach. You go to the market with the chef and see what’s fresh.

Will it be crayfish or lamb? New asparagus or an oozing camembert? Fresh tomatoes from Provence or foie gras from the Dordogne?

The chef accompanies you around the stalls and helps you make the selections.

Either type of class is a wonderful experience, but the laissez-faire version is more exciting and a test of the chef’s ability to create a yummy menu on the fly.

If you have a food allergy or other dietary restrictions, let the chef know. He or she will either tell you how to modify the recipe or will provide an alternative.

Recommendations in Paris & Lyon

I’ve taken four cooking classes in Paris (a baguette-making class and three market classes) as well as in Lyon, France, where I live. All the classes were conducted in English.

In the French baguette class, I learned an important lesson—read the reviews of the cooking class before you sign up! Two of the three ovens weren’t working which made the experience less enjoyable than it could have been.

Fresh baguettes made in the baguette class; Photo credit: Liz Reding

Nevertheless, I did learn how to make baguettes the old-fashioned way by smacking the dough against a granite surface. In my kitchen at home, I was able to adapt the baguette recipe and make it in my mixer with a dough hook. The results were fabulous!

Some of the cooking techniques I learned in cooking classes were fun but not useful. For example, I learned how to strain potatoes through a screen, but why would I want to?

No matter what type of class you take or where you take it, you’ll always learn new techniques and new recipes. And at the end of the class, you can relax and enjoy the meal you helped make, often with people from around the world.

Paris Cooking Classes

Here are the three cooking schools I attended in Paris. Typically, a cooking class that includes a meal costs between €150 and €200 per person. Some cooking schools offer group rates. If you’re traveling with a group, you may be able to save money by booking a private class.

Cook’n with Class – Market class

La Cuisine – Baguette class

Le Foodist – Market class

Lyon Cooking Class

Plum Lyon – Market class

I highly recommend adding a cooking class to your itinerary.

If you’re really into cooking classes, consider going on a cooking retreat. Plenty of options are available in places such as Tuscany and Provence.

About Liz Reding

Liz Reding is a retired computer textbook author who lives in Lyon, France. Born in Manhattan and having lived in Boston and New Mexico (Santa Fe and Albuquerque), she and her husband are discovering the joys of traveling and exploring the world. She enjoys learning French, cycling, and cooking nutritious meals.

Conclusion

Have you taken a cooking class while traveling? You can find them all over the world! I took a cooking class in Rome that I write about in Cooking in Roma with InRome Cooking.

Share your experiences in the comments below.

And here’s some more inspiration for cooking classes in Japan, Morocco, and Madrid.