How Not to Tour the Colosseum in Rome

May 5, 2024May 6, 2024Activities, Destinations, Get Inspired, Italy carolcram Leave a Comment

You’ve arrived in Rome! Perhaps you’ve been lucky enough to have your taxi whisk you past the Colosseum on your way to your accomodation.

There it is! It’s huge! OMG! We’re in Rome!

Yes, the Colosseum is impressive, iconic, and the symbol of Rome. People come from all over the globe to visit the Colosseum. They snap selfies in front of it, gaze out over its ruined arena, and stand in line-ups for hours.

My question is–should you bother? My answer? It depends!

My Rome Colosseum History

Since my first visit to Rome in 1974, I’ve popped into the Colosseum in Rome four times. Three of those visits were great. The most recent one was a nightmare. The Colosseum itself hasn’t changed much apart from some restoration work over the decades. It’s still a massive ruin that, while impressive, bears little similarity to its magnificent original. Earthquakes, looting, and the general wear and tear of two millennia, not to mention the shuffling feet of millions and millions of visitors have taken their toll.

What has changed for visitors in 2024 is just how incredibly crowded the Colosseum has become. In 2024, the Colosseum probably ranks as the number one tourist site in Rome. Even St. Peter’s and the Vatican aren’t that crowded (although they are pretty much overrun).

Although I have no way of knowing for sure, I got the feeling during my most recent visit to the Colosseum in Rome that people were ticking it off their must-see list for Rome, whether they enjoyed it or not. What a shame! Rome is so much more fabulous than the Colosseum.

The Colosseum is cool, for sure. But is it worth your time to go inside when you can snap a photo like the one below with zero effort?

Should You Visit Rome and Not Go to the Colosseum?

Consider visiting Rome and not visiting the Colosseum. Gasp! Should you do it? If you want to enjoy Rome and you’re visiting there between April to October, then I say yes, give the Colosseum a miss. Also forget the Vatican and the Sistine Chapel, although you might consider St. Peter’s since in my experience, the line moves fairly briskly and at least you’re outdoors for most of the wait.

But back to the Colosseum. In this post, I’ll describe my visit there in early May 2024. You can then decide for yourself if it’s worth several hours of your precious sightseeing time. Or, would you be better off skipping the crowds and heading for some of Rome’s quieter and infinitely more lovely sights (more on these later)?

Signing Up for a Tour: Smart Idea or ?

I’m a savvy traveler and so I knew that the early visitor beats the crowds. The two-hour guided tour of the Colosseum I signed up for started at 8 am and guaranteed first entry into the site. I imagined wandering through deserted passageways, the morning sun slanting pleasingly across the ancient ruins, the only sound the murmurs of the guide and perhaps a few tweeting birds.

I mean, who starts sightseeing at 8 am? For sure, I’ll have the place to myself and perhaps a few other intrepid travelers willing to sign up for an early morning tour.

Finding the Tour

Promptly at 7:50 am, I arrive at the meeting point across the street from one of the gates to enter the Colosseum and Forum. A knot of maybe fifty people all proffering cell phones is my clue that I’m in the right place. I wait patiently for the beleaguered guide to check my phone, declare me valid, and press a small white sticker onto my chest. It’s now about 8:10 am, so obviously the tour doesn’t actually start at 8 am.

While waiting, I snap a photo of the Forum across the street, looking splendid in the early morning sun of one of the first really warm days I’ve experienced in Rome on my current trip.

Waiting to Enter the Colosseum

Several minutes later, we are ushered across the road to the entrance gate and told that the ticket takers open at 8:30 and that we will be first! (said with enthusiam, like it was a rare treat and not what we’d signed up for).

Ticket takers? I’d neglected to read the fine print of the tour. The cost does not include the cost of entry into the archaeological site (includes the Forum and Palatine Hill in addition to the Colosseum).

A word of warning: Check what’s included in your tour and opt for a tour that includes the entry cost so the guide already has your tickets.

Lesson learned, I prepare to wait in line (at least I am close to the front) until the ticket booths open in another fifteen minutes. After all, the guide has assured us that we’ll be first into the Colosseum. Isn’t that worth waiting a few extra minutes for?

Remember the tweeting birds, the silence of the ancient stones, the glorious isolation!

Buying a Ticket to the Colosseum

At precisely 8:40 am, the ticket takers open the two wickets and the first people in line eagerly step forward to buy their tickets. Yahoo! The line will surely go quickly and I’ll be inside the Colosseum communing with history and getting tons of inspiration for my next novel in no time flat.

8:50 am: The first people in line are still at the ticket booth.

9:00 am: The first people in line are still at the ticket booth. Oh wait! One of the groups has left and another couple has stepped forward. But at the other booth, the same four people are still talking with the attendant. What can they be talking about? What’s the holdup? Are they sharing recipes? Tips for touring Rome? What gives?

The guide comes by and tells us to have our passports out and ready to show the ticket takers. What? I don’t have my passport with me although fortunately I do have my driver’s license. I ask the guide if that will do. Yes. Phew.

Another five minutes goes by and the first group of four finally leaves the booth. They are looking weary but relieved. I’d love to ask them what went down, but of course I don’t dare risk losing my place in lines.

The next group steps forward. I take to counting to gauge how long they stay at the booth. Sixty seconds, another sixty, another sixty…five minutes and they’re done. Another ten minutes goes by during which the time a few more groups get to the booth and the several minutes step away, tickets in hand. Their per wait time is marginally decreasing. Progress is being made.

My Turn Getting Tickets for the Colosseum

Finally, it’s my turn. I’m about to find out why it takes almost five minutes to process each person in a line that is now stretching back to the road and a considerable way along it. Did all these people book a group tour that required them to buy tickets?

I find out later that yes, they are all group tour people. The “regular” people who just want a ticket to the Colosseum without a tour buy their tickets at another booth. I’ll soon discover that many, many hundreds of them get inside the Colosseum long before we arrive.

So much for us being first!

Anyway, I’m at the booth.

“One for the Colosseum, per favore.”

“One?”

“Si.”

The attendant shakes her head as if to say what kind of a loser visits the Colosseum all by themselves. I push my driver’s license under the glass barrier and she places it in front of her keyboard. Then, with two stiff fingers, she laboriously starts to type. No wonder this whole process is taking forever! She has to physically enter the ID for every single person in line and she can’t type. Oh dear.

After about two minutes (possibly a record), she hands me back my card, I pay with my credit card, and then go stand with my fellow line waiters for the tour to begin. It’s now 9:30 am.

Starting the Tour of the Colosseum–Almost

Promptly at 9:45 am, only 1 hour and 45 minutes past the tour start time, our guide leads those of us who have Colosseum tickets marked 9:15 am to another loooooong line. This is the line for all the Skip-the-Line group tours. As I said, it’s long.

Security Line at the Colosseum

We wait for another twenty minutes while the guide finally explains why progress that morning has been unusually slow. I’m at least heartened to find out that the current process is not normal. Apparently, there was a security incident (bomb scare?) a few days earlier, and since May 1 (it’s May 3^rd), new procedures using a new security firm are being instituted. Unfortunately, thorough testing is lacking so chaos reigns as the Colosseum ticket takers are obliged to enter everyone’s ID information while the new security personnel are stationed at the entrances to the actual Colosseum to again check IDs and tickets.

Entering the Colosseum

We finally reach the front of the Skip-the-Line group tour line and enter the outer perimeter of the Colosseum.

It’s big. Really big—much bigger than it looks from the road with massive columns that soar way up into the blue Roman sky.

The guide starts her spiel while leading us to yet another line. While we wait, she cheerfully asks one group where they are from. They say they are from Austria and that never again will they come to Rome because it is horrible and dirty.

I am offended on behalf of both myself (I adore Rome!) and the guide who smiles gamely but I can see is a trifle nonplussed. I mean, rude much? Apparently, the Austrians booked into a hotel that was less than stellar and that has colored their whole opinion of Rome.

I wanted to tell the Austrians that the place we’re staying in is absolutely wonderful—clean, spacious and in an excellent location. Perhaps they’d decided to cheap out. Rome is a fabulous place to visit, but accommodations are not budget friendly. But then you can say that about just about every destination in Europe in 2024. The days of Europe on $5 a day (or even $100 a day) belong to the middle of the last century.

The guide decides not to ask the rest of the group about their experience. The mood is already a bit iffy considering we’ve all stood in lines for more than two hours for our first-into-the-Colosseum tour and haven’t actually started touring the Colosseum. We are in it, but only just.

The next line moves a little quicker. The security people check IDs and then we line up for the security screening. As usual, people walk through the scanner with their pockets bulging with Euros so back they must go while everyone waits. Sigh.

Climbing to the Top of the Colosseum

And then, finally, we’re in and the tour officially begins. The guide talks to us for quite a while about the history of the Colosseum and then invites us to trudge up three flights of very steep steps to look out over the arena.

We emerge into a surging Sargasso Sea of visitors all packed cheek by jowl along the railing overlooking the arena. Everyone’s snapping selfies and I suppose communing with their inner gladiator. We walk and walk and walk some more around the perimeter to a slightly less crowded stretch of railing, and get our one minute of time to snap pics.

Yes, it’s an impressive place for sure. In its heyday, the Colosseum fit 70,000 screaming Romans. Today, approximately 16,000 people visit the Colosseum every single day. So even though the place feels very crowded to me, it is positively empty compared to what it would have been back when the arena area was covered in sand to better absorb the blood.

The guide talks about how wild animals were starved for days before being let loose to gnaw on convicts, Christians, and anyone else the Emperor didn’t like. It’s snippets of info such as this that you get from a guided tour.

Is A Guided Tour Worth the Wait?

So, should you opt for a guided tour of the Colosseum, check it out on your own, or forget about it and do something that doesn’t involve rubbing shoulders (literally) with thousands of your new best friends?

You may have guessed my opinion, which is Door #3. The entire tour/ordeal lasted about three hours, with the smallest number of minutes devoted to the tour and the largest to waiting for the tour. Now, to be fair, the extra security measures ate up a goodly chunk of that three hours. I don’t know if these measures will become the norm going forward, in which case be prepared for waits, or if it’s temporary. You’ll have to check that out before you book.

I don’t blame the tour guide for all the waiting. She was doing her best in difficult circumstances and to her credit remained cheerful and upbeat throughout. I gave her a 5 Euro tip which appeared to surprise her, but hey, I figure she earned it. Most people either didn’t tip or gave her 5 euros for their entire party.

Touring the Colosseum On Your Own

What about the second option—touring the Colosseum on your own? I think it may be marginally the better option because you don’t need to arrive at a location two hours ahead of when you get in. Instead, you can go straight to the ticket line and take your chances. The wait could be 10 minutes or two hours.

You could also buy your ticket online. You’ll still need to stand in line-ups, but perhaps not for quite so long. It’s difficult to say. We bought our “skip-the-line” tickets to Pompeii online and still had to wait in line about 20 minutes to exchange the online tickets for real tickets.

When To Visit the Colosseum

I think the moral of the story is that whatever way you slice it, sites like the Colosseum are really, really popular. You can try to beat the crowds, but I don’t think in any universe you’ll get around waiting in long lines.

My advice? Either visit the Colosseum during the off-season (November to March) when crowds should be a bit thinner, or forget about it and go see some of Rome’s other awesome sites.

Tours of the Colosseum

If you do opt for a tour (and I’m just saying, buyer beware), then Get Your Guide has plenty of tours to choose from. I suggest choosing a tour that includes a ticket to the Colosseum and the Forum so you won’t need to line up to buy your ticket separately.

Also, you may be better off booking a tour in the late afternoon or opt for one of the evening tours instead of the morning. I felt like everyone fueled up on their hotel breakfast as early as possible and made a beeline for the Colosseum as their first stop of the day. I think possibly later in the day may be less frantic.

Other Sites in Rome

Rome is chock-a-block full of amazing things to see and do. Here are some of my favorite sites in Rome. You’ll note that I don’t include big ticket items like the Vatican Museum, St. Peter’s, the Pantheon, and the Trevi Fountain, all of which are over-run with visitors.

Walking tour of the Jewish Ghetto
Capitoline Museum
Etruscan Museum
Keats/Shelley House at the Spanish Steps
Modern Art Museum
Borghese Gardens
Baths of Caracella

These are just a sampling. There are also a ton of fabulous churches, some with Roman foundations.

My Favorite Activity in Rome

For me, my favorite Rome activity is walking around the various neighborhoods and avoiding the bottleneck areas around the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, St. Peter’s Square, and especially the Trevi Fountain. If you want to experience any of those places crowd-free, either swing by late at night or go for a very early morning stroll.

Here’s a shot taken on my way home after a scrumptious dinner of a side street steps from where I stayed not far from the Spanish Steps.

Conclusion

Have you visited the Colosseum recently and not found it crowded? Do you have any tips for how to have an enjoyable visit? Please share in the comments below.

Posts About Rome

Here are some more posts about Rome, one of my very favorite cities in the world. I’ve visited eight times, and I’m not done yet!

Pizza, Gelato, Suppli–Oh My! A Fantastic Cooking Class in Rome

April 29, 2024April 30, 2024Activities, Destinations, Europe, Get Inspired, Italy carolcram Leave a Comment

I’m a huge fan of taking cooking classes when I travel around interesting locales that have unique cuisines. So far, I’ve taken a market class and a French sauces class (sweet and savory) in Paris, a tapas class in Madrid, and a pasta & tiramasu class in Rome (see my post about that awesome class here).

Choosing a Class in Rome

With two weeks to spend in Rome in 2024 (with a few days off to visit Naples and Paestum), I decided to take yet another cooking class. Most of classes available were variations on the pasta/tiramasu class I’d already taken, but after a bit of searching on Get Your Guide, I discovered a pizza and gelato-making class.

Perfect! I signed up on Tuesday for the class on Friday.

EnjoyCooking.com with Crown Tours

In 2022, I’d taken the pasta/tiramisu class with InRome Cooking, which I highly recommend. But this time, I decided to go with EnjoyCooking.com for the sake of variety and having a new company to write about on Artsy Traveler. EnjoyCooking.com partners with Crown Tours to offer cooking classes in a lovely, brick-arched space next door to their tour office and across the street from the Colosseum.

The day before the class, I got a WhatsApp call from the company. The family that had signed up to take the class at the same time as me had canceled, leaving me on my own. Did I want to postpone the class to the evening slot? I could not because in the evening, we had the opening of Gregg’s art exhibition at Il Leone Galleria in Rome. I was assured that they were happy to still offer the class at the 10 am time slot even if I was on my own. Lucky me!

Arrival at EnjoyCooking.com

I arrived on Friday morning and was ushered into the cooking space. There was room for eight people in a class so it was much more intimate than the class I took at InRome Cooking in 2022 which hosted I think twelve people. To my delight, there was one other woman in the class. Over the course of the next three hours, we bonded and had an awesome time.

Chef Marco!

But the biggest surprise was meeting the chef. In walked Marco–the same chef who had taught the pasta/tiramisu class at InRome Cooking. I couldn’t believe it! I told him I’d taken his class and showed him the blog post. He was so excited!

So that was a great way to kick off the morning. Over the next three hours, Chef Marco led my new friend and me in a lively, hands on and informative class. I’m always amazed at how much I learn about cooking technique in these classes.

Gelato Making

We started with gelato. I discovered to my relief that the ice cream maker I’d purchased several years earlier could be dragged out, dusted off, and used to make gelato. Who knew?

We heated several pints of fresh milk in a pot over an electric hot plate. Marco informed us that the milk should be as fresh as possible–so fresh that it would spoil after three days. Of course, getting milk that fresh is pretty much impossible in North America unless you live on a farm, which I don’t. But the next best thing is high quality organic milk.

We heated the milk and whisked in sugar followed by ten egg yolks and grated lemon zest to make limone gelato. The lemons had come from the Amalfi coast and smelled divine.

After mixing the gelato, we poured it into the commercial gelato maker that would produce perfect gelato within thirty minutes. What an impressive looking machine!

Carol Cram pouring gelato into gelato maker

Marco informed us that we would also make raspberry sorbetto to go along with the limone gelato. Sorbetto is even faster and easier to make than gelato. We mixed water with raspberries and once the gelato was made, we poured it into the gelato-maker (after the limone gelato was done, of course).

Here’s a video of the raspberry gelato being extruded from the gelato maker–an exceedingly beautiful and satisfying sight.

Suppli Making

I had never heard of suppli–a Roman street food that is widely available all over the city. Marco showed us how to take rice cooked in tomatoes and form it around fresh cubes of mozzarella cheese, then bread and deep fry it. The result was a log-shaped rectangle that when still hot and pulled apart stretched the warm mozzarella cheese. It was yummy but a bit rich for me at only 11 am!

But when in Rome!

Pizza Making

The main event of the cooking class was making pizza the proper way–aka like they make piazza in Napoli where Marco was from.

I learned that the pizza dough should be rested for two hours after mixing and then rested in the refrigerator for up to three days. That was something new to me. I’d always let my piazza dough rise for about an hour, if that, and then cooked it. Apparently, doing so results in dough that is still fermenting when it enters your tummy. Not good!

Mixing the Pizza Dough

We mixed the dough and kneaded it for about six minutes–a very satisfying process. The dough was light and very elastic. It was then put away to rest and presumably used for a class the next day. Marco then produced dough that had already been rested and risen for a day, and we proceeded to learn how to shape the dough into a pizza. Handling the soft, pliant dough was such a pleasure. We didn’t learn how to throw it in the air, but we did learn a few tricks I can apply back home.

Baking the Pizza

Another tip I learned was to slather on the tomato sauce first, bake the pizza for about six minutes in a home oven (much less in a high temperature commercial oven) and then add the toppings and cook for another three to four minutes. Who knew? I also learned that certain toppings such as prosciutto should not be cooked, but added after the pizza came out of the oven.

For best results, I was told that I should get myself a pizza stone so that’s going on my Christmas list for next year!

Topping the Pizza

After baking the pizza with the sauce, we were offered a wide array of toppings to dress our pizza. My companion chose mozzarella cheese and fresh sausage. I chose anchovies, mushrooms, olives, and of course mozzarella cheese. Here we are making our pizzas in front of the scrumptious assortment of toppings.

Finishing the Pizzas

The pizzas went back in the oven and voila! Within minutes they were being served to us. The first bites were wonderful–the crust slightly charred and very puffed up (the sign of a good pizza) and the toppings fresh. I managed to get through three pieces before having to give up. Marco thoughtfully put the remainder in a pizza box for me to carry home to Gregg.

Finished pizza with anchovies and olives at cooking class in rome

After pizza, we were served the gelato we’d made earlier. OMG! The limone gelato, in particular, was truly to die for. I don’t think I’ve ever tasted a fresher and more delightful-tasking gelato. It puts the run-of-the-mill gelatos found in gelato stores to shame. As Marco said, it’s all about using the freshest ingredients.

The class ended with me receiving my certificate and posing for a picture with Marco. I was thoroughly satisfied with my second Rome cooking experience in EnjoyCooking.com and Crown Tours.

A smile was on my face as I threaded my way through the crowds of tourists streaming past the Colosseum and Forum on my way back to our comfy little apartment in the Jewish Ghetto.

Thank you, EnjoyCooking.com and Marco for an excellent experience.

EnjoyCooking.com Class

Here’s a link to the cooking class I took through Crown Tours. As I’ve mentioned often on Artsy Traveler, I’m a very big fan of Get Your Guide. I booked my class with Crown Tours through Get Your Guide. If you click on the link below (or the links in the next section) and take any tour (not just the ones listed), I get a small commission. Thank you.

Cooking Classes in Rome with Get Your Guide

Here is a selection of additional cooking classes in Rome run by both Crown Tours and other companies.

Conclusion

Have you taken a cooking class while traveling? Share your experience in the comments below!

Spending an Amazing Day at Proyecto Asis Wildlife Refuge in Costa Rica

September 1, 2023October 2, 2023Activities, Central America, Destinations, Get Inspired carolcram Leave a Comment

Last updated on October 2nd, 2023 at 07:36 pm

I highly, highly recommend spending a day at a wildlife refuge while traveling in Costa Rica. Just make sure you do your research and find a reputable one that places the animals’ best interests far above those of tourists.

We did quite a bit of searching online before selecting Proyecto Asis for our wildlife refuge day. Its numerous five-star reviews and assurances that it existed for the benefit of the animals in its care convinced us. A non-profit organization, Proyecto Asis provides a secure home to orphaned, abandoned, injured or otherwise neglected animals.

Pinterest graphic with a blue parrot and information about the post

Overview of Proyecto Asis

The intention is to eventually release the animals back to the wild. Unfortunately, humans have damaged some of the animals so badly that they can never again live safely outside captivity. We learned all this during the course of the day, and it was fascinating!

Proyecto Asis is located about 45 minutes from La Fortuna in a beautiful area of farms and forests. If you’re driving, you can get there easily from La Fortuna, or you can ask Proyecto Asis to hire a driver for you (that’s what we did).

Established in 2002, Proyecto Asis is now an animal rescue center, Spanish school, and volunteer center.

Booking a Day at Proyecto Asis

We booked our day at the Proyecto Asis a few months before our visit to Costa Rica. Their website provided several options. We chose to do the sloth walk in the morning, the tour of the wildlife refuge in the afternoon, and an hour or two of volunteering at the end of the day.

I’m very glad we chose to stay for the whole day. Having that much time at the wildlife refuge gave us a good feel for the place and for the excellent work it does protecting animals. I could have happily spent another whole day there. Proyecto Asis has several programs to accommodate a range of interests, so if wildlife conservation is your thing, you’ll likely find some good options.

Getting to Proyecto Asis

Proyecto Asis has organized a transfer for us from the Tabacon Hot Springs Resort near La Fortuna. Promptly at 9:30 am, our driver Alfonso arrives to pick us up. He speaks good English and gets us to the refuge right on time. On the way, he pulls into a fruit stand and emerges holding two containers of freshly chopped papaya, pineapple, and watermelon that he presents to us.

How thoughtful! The fruit is achingly fresh and refreshing and way better than the fruit at the hotel breakfast.

Entrance to Proyecto Asis near La Fortuna in Costa Rica — Entrance to Proyecto Asis Wild Animal Rescue Center

Touring the Sloth Sanctuary

After arriving at Proyecto Asis, we are warmly greeted and our fruit stored for the day in the refrigerator. After spraying ourselves with bug repellant (in the parking lot, not in the forest, to avoid affecting the animals!), we join a family of four for a tour of the sloth sanctuary across the road. The sanctuary is home to many sloths who live in the wild. While there are informative plaques dotted around the pathways, the sanctuary is not a zoo.

Our guide Jonny shares his enthusiasm and extensive knowledge about sloths, stopping every so often during our walk to share information about the four different species of sloths. We don’t see any other wildlife, although Jonny tells us that the week before, he spotted a three-meter boa. I can’t say I’m sorry I didn’t see it too.

Seeing Sloths

Like Luis, our guide at the Arenal Night Walk (described in my post See Costa Rica in Two Packed and Perfect Weeks), Jonny carries a large telescope on a tripod. Without it, seeing any sloths at all beyond brown fur balls high in the trees will be impossible. Jonny also has a contraption to strap the iPhone to the telescope to take pictures and videos of the sloths.

Sloth hanging in a tree — A sloth hanging out in its natural habitat

Learning About Sloths

One of my favorite exhibits at the sloth sanctuary is of the massive prehistoric sloth—twenty feet high and nothing like his furry, bug-infested ancestor. This guy was anything but cute!

We learn that hundreds and hundreds of insects buzz around the sloths hanging out in the trees. Through the telescope, we can see so many that the sloths appear blurry. When a sloth does move, it is to scratch itself, which is hardly surprising.

Jonny tells us that baby sloths stay with Mama for five months. Mama then brings baby down to the ground and leaves it there to fend for itself because presumably by that time it knows how to be a sloth.

Hearing from the Guide

Here’s a clip of Jonny talking about sloths. His enthusiasm for his subject is infectious.

Our guide Jonny teaching us about sloths

In recent years, these creatures, which are actually not at all cuddly and even dangerous to get near as a result of the bugs infesting them, have become incredibly popular. Sloths are the unofficial mascot of Costa Rica. Their images are everywhere–from T-shirts to tea towels and every possible thing in between.

Unfortunately, their popularity has led to some so-called wildlife parks exploiting them to entertain tourists. However, the Costa Rican government is doing its best to crack down on questionable wildlife practices and is shutting down facilities that do not protect the animals.

The sloth walk is through very lush jungle that includes plenty of vibrant flowers. The air hums with insects and the heat and humidity are tropical but still comfortable for walking.

Tropical flowers at Proyecto Asis near La Fortuna in Costa Rica — Beautiful tropical flowers at the sloth sanctuary

Lunch at a Soda

After the sloth walk, we walk down the road to a soda, which is a small restaurant run by locals, to enjoy food that is hearty, typical, and cheap. We both enjoy excellent meals plus pineapple drinks for about 11000 colóns, which is less than $20 USD. It is a bargain for sure.

Excellent simple meal at a soda in Costa Rica — My tasty lunch at a soda

Wildlife Refuge Tour

After lunch, we walk back to Proyecto Asis for the wildlife refuge tour. I have no idea what to expect. To my surprise and delight, the next two hours fly by during probably the most interesting and comprehensive tour I’ve ever been on for anything, anywhere (and I’ve been on my fair share of tours over the years).

Much of the appeal of the tour is due to the personality and enthusiasm of Carlos, our guide. Numerous Trip Advisor reviews mention him by name and no wonder. The man is a gifted entertainer and so passionate about communicating and educating visitors about wildlife preservation and rehabilitation.

Beautiful blue parrot greets us as we enter the wildlife sanctuary to start the tour

Learning About Rescue Animals

All the animals at the Proyecto Asis Wildlife Refuge are rescued, the vast majority from homes where, tragically, they were kept as pets. It’s so sad to hear their stories. Carlos stops at every cage and introduces the animal, tells us its story, and describes how the staff at the refuge are rehabilitating the animal back into the wild. For some, the process will take years; for others, just a few months depending on the severity of injury and trauma the animal has suffered.

A few of the animals are so damaged that they will never be able to survive in the wild. At least they will live their lives securely and be well fed, with plenty of other animals to keep them company.

Carlos talks a lot about how animals in captivity often exhibit unnatural behaviors. Here he explains why parrot “talk”!

Carlos the guide is funny and informative!

Monkeys at Proyecto Asis

The animals in the refuge vary so you never know what you’ll see. On the day we visit, we see spider monkeys and white-faced monkeys, two of the five species of monkeys in Costa Rica. Some are wild monkeys that have been hit by cars and need to recover from their injuries before being returned to the forest. These are the luckier ones. At least they know how to live in the wild.

A monkey at Proyecto Asis — One of the monkeys hanging out

The saddest stories are of the poor creatures who were taken from the wild as babies and then kept chained up for years until finally their owners tired of them and dumped them at the refuge. These monkeys need to learn how to be monkeys again.

Carlos spends a lot of time describing the various ways in which they retrain the monkeys, always with the intention of preparing them for the wild. While they do name the monkeys to identify them, they do not interact with them as pets. They are wild animals—or soon to be—and the respect for them is palpable and so admirable.

Here Carlos explains about monkeys and their tails.

Carlos talking about monkeys

Carlos emphasizes over and over again how they do not want to make the animals playthings of humans, that they deserve to have their own lives as free and wild creatures. All behaviors that are not found in the wild are slowly changed, usually by the animals themselves. A monkey that arrives at the refuge not knowing how to swing by its tail because it never got the chance to learn while in captivity eventually learns by watching the other monkeys.

How Monkeys Become Pets

Carlos tells us how people get monkeys to sell as pets. They go into the forest and take baby monkeys. And how do they get a baby monkey? They kill the mother because if they don’t, the mother will attack. So, two lives are ruined, and for what? It’s heartbreaking, but also heartening because facilities like the Proyecto Asis are doing incredible work.

A monkey staring out of its cage at Proyecto Asis — A better life awaits this guy once he can be rehabilitated back to the wild where he belongs.

A Green Boa

While standing in front of one of monkey cages, we see this beautiful fellow slowly slithering past. He pays zero attention to us.

A snake goes on its slithery way

Tropical Birds at Proyecto Asis

In addition to the monkeys, the refuge takes care of a great variety of tropical birds, particularly toucans, macaws, and parrots. Almost all these birds were once pets. Most have come to the refuge without their tail feathers and some with broken wings, clipped wings, and worse. The birds are so damaged that rehabilitating them can take years. In fact, some of the birds will never be released.

A beautiful scarlet macaw at Proyecto Asis — The parrots are so spectacular

Macaws

Macaws are known to mate for life. When one dies, the other usually dies within weeks. But what self-respecting red or green macaw will mate with a hybrid? None.

We also learn that parrots are not monogamous. When a mate dies, the survivor quickly finds another mate. Interestingly, the parrots live about 40 years. The macaws with their one-mate-for-life live for about 100 years. One point for monogamy!

Carlos explains about how parrots that are separated can get depressed and then die.

A Hybrid Macaw

One of the most tragic stories is of a macaw that was bred from a red macaw and a green macaw. This combination is impossible in nature, because the two species of macaws live in different parts of Costa Rica and would never meet, never mind mate. But some horrible person did manage to mate a red one with a green one. The resulting offspring will forever live at the refuge because in the wild, it couldn’t survive in the area where the red macaws live and it couldn’t survive in the area where the green macaws live.

The hybrid is apparently worth a great deal of money because its plumage is so striking, although so, so wrong. Fortunately for the hybrid, it’s found a good home at Proyecto Asis well away from wildlife traffickers.

A hybrid macaw at Proyecto Asis — This hybrid was bred in captivity and will never be able to live in the wild

I love the toucans; and there are plenty at the refuge. They are so comical to watch, with their large beaks. It’s great to be able to get so close to them.

A toucan at Proyecto Asis — A toucan poses for a picture

Carlos never stops talking for two hours and everything he says is fascinating. I am riveted and inspired.

Volunteering at Proyecto Asis

After the wildlife tour (we also see three wild pigs, two caimans, and a morgay, which is a type of small wildcat), Carlos teaches Julia, me, and one other person from the refuge tour how to chop fruit and veggies to feed the monkeys.

Again, Carlos keeps up a steady stream of commentary about how the animals are fed, how he makes sure the alpha males don’t steal every portion, etc. I learn so much!

After we chop the fruit, Carlos leads us to the monkey enclosures, and we get to watch while the monkeys eat their dinner. But only some of the monkeys! We learn that the refuge doesn’t allow guests to watch the same monkeys eat every day. Guests are rotated between the various monkey cages so that all monkeys get at least a few days a week to eat in privacy. Apparently, privacy has been identified as an important need for the monkeys, which makes sense. I wouldn’t want people watching me eat all the time either.

Conclusion

At the end of our wonderful day at Proyecto Asis, a different driver picks us up and whisks us back to La Fortuna. We ask him to drop us in the town rather than taking us to Tabacon, which is about 7 kilometers away. For several hours, we enjoy wandering around the shops and then having a meal.

Free Your Inner Floral Artist at Stunning Villa Lena in the Tuscan Countryside

March 28, 2023April 6, 2023Activities, Artsy Sightseeing, Destinations, Get Inspired, Italy carolcram Leave a Comment

Last updated on April 6th, 2023 at 05:22 pm

As an Artsy Traveler, one of the most rewarding things I recommend you do is sign up for an artsy retreat in a gorgeous location. You’ll get inspired while learning new techniques and meeting like-minded travelers.

I recently discovered the Villa Lena in Tuscany (and I LOVE Tuscany!) where you can do just that.

Imagine spending four days surrounded by spring flowers in the Tuscan countryside while you learn how to arrange and paint flowers with master artist Tanvi Pathare. From May 5th to 10th in 2023, Tanvi will be conducting four watercolor master classes that “will focus on an old and healing art form: the slow-paced appreciation of flowers, landscapes, and natural beauty.”

Tanvi Pathare floral painting workshop at Villa Lena in Tuscany

Sounds pretty awesome to me! I hooked up virtually with Tanvi and asked her some questions about her background as an artist and about her upcoming Flower Painting Retreat at the Villa Lena in Tuscany.

Interview with Tanvi Pathare

I interviewed Tanvi virtually (and hope one day to meet and learn with her in person!). Here is our interview.

Who is Tanvi Pathare?

Artsy Traveler: Tell us about your background as an artist–where you studied and some of your influences.

Tanvi Pathare: I was born in Mumbai, India. Since an early age, I was fascinated by the idea that you could create something beautiful with your hands; I enjoyed the craft element of it. I studied at the Sir J. J. School of Art in Mumbai, after which I moved to Florence in the search of more formal training as a realist painter.

I studied in the painting program at the Florence Academy of Art. After graduating from this program, I began teaching, and have been a Principal Instructor for drawing and painting at The Florence Academy ever since.

I look up to painters such as Rembrandt, Titian, Van Dyck, John Singer Sargent, Emil Carlsen, Henri Fantin-Latour, and Isaac Levitan to name a few.

Tanvi’s Inspiration

Artsy Traveler: What is it about floral painting that inspires you?

Tanvi Pathare: I feel my journey as a painter involves the constant delightful pursuit of studying the perfection of nature. Flowers are a wonderful source of inspiration, as they change, move, and grow. I find tracking their beauty through paint highly intriguing.

Tanvi Pathare painting in Tuscany — Tanvi teaching painting in Florence

Tanvi’s Favorite Flowers

Artsy Traveler: Do you have any favorite flowers that you particularly enjoy painting?

Tanvi Pathare: I truly enjoy painting roses and peonies. I think their overall forms are very intricate, and hence a good place to spend a few hours meditating over them.

Painting of peonies by Tanvi Pathare who is hosting a workshop at the Villa Lena in Tuscany — Painting of peonies by Tanvi Pathare

Influences of Location

Artsy Traveler: You grew up in India and now live in Florence. How have these locations inspired you? What changed in your work when you moved to Europe?

Tanvi Pathare: I think having grown up in India, color (and a lot of it) was always a part of my visual aesthetic. Moving to Florence, I think my palette, became a bit more harmonized, though still having sharp color notes. My formal training in Florence helped me organize my ideas in a more cohesive way. Living in Florence, you are spoilt by the beauty around you. I think Mumbai and Florence will always be an integral part of my language as a painter.

Villa Lena Workshop

Artsy Traveler: As a workshop leader, what do you hope participants will take away from their experience painting with you?

Tanvi Pathare: hope that participants walk away with a new found appreciation of nature and flowers. Painting flowers is a beautiful way of truly appreciating their beauty because you spend much longer looking at them, versus just taking a picture of them and moving along..

White Roses by Tanvi Pathare who is hosting a workshop at the Villa Lena in Tuscany — White Roses by Tanvi Pathare

Tanvi Pathare’s Artwork

Tanvi’s art is truly exquisite. Her website beautifully showcases her work with various subjects: portraits, landscapes, and still lifes (lots of flowers in this category).

Here is a selection of some of her works I particularly liked. I can definitely see how she is influenced by masters such as Titian and Rembrandt and also by 19th century painters such as Henri Fantin-Latour and John Singer Sargent.

Landscapes by Tanvi Pathare

Tanvi’s website includes several paintings of the Tuscan landscape. Artists have been captivated by this landscape for centuries and no wonder. Tanvi captures the light and motion with fluid strokes and an eye for strong composition.

Landscape painting by Tanvi Pathare — *The Valley in Lucca* by Tanvi Pathare

Painting of the Mediterranean by Tanvi Pathare — *The Mediterranean* by Tanvi Pathare

Still Lifes by Tanvi Pathare

I often gravitate to still life paintings when I tour art museums. I especially enjoy flower paintings, perhaps because my mother painted flowers almost until she passed at the age of 93. So flower paintings have been a part of my life forever. Also, although I’m not the best of gardeners, I love watching flowers grow! Tanvi’s flower paintings really spoke to me. She captures the exuberance of their colors and the whimsy of their forms spilling out of vases and scattering petals. I feel like I can reach out and pluck a rose just before it falls.

Wine and Roses by Tanvi Pathare who is hosting a workshop at the Villa Lena in Tuscany — *Wine and Roses* by Tanvi Pathare

Of Peonies and Roses by Tanvi Pathare who is hosting a workshop at the Villa Lena in Tuscany — *Of Peonies and Roses* **by Tanvi Pathare**

A Wisteria Dream by Tanvi Pathare who is hosting a workshop at the Villa Lena in Tuscany — *A Wisteria Dream* by Tanvi Pathare

Still Life with Roses and Cherry Blossoms by Tanvi Pathare who is hosting a workshop at the Villa Lena in Tuscany — *Still Life with Roses and Cherry Blossoms* by Tanvi Pathare

To see more of Tanvi’s work, check her website.

About the Flower Painting Workshop at Villa Lena

The Flower Painting Workshop at Villa Lena runs from May 5th to May 10th, 2023. You stay at the Villa Lena and can participate in many more activities in addition to flower painting.

When I read the description about what participants in Tanvi’s floral painting workshop at the Villa Lena are going to do during their stay, I wish I could hop on a plane and attend myself. Alas, not this Spring, although I plan to visit the Villa Lena when I’m in Tuscany in the Fall of 2023.

Here’s what you’ll enjoy during your floral painting workshop:

5 nights accommodation on site at Villa Lena
Full board – farm to table feasting.
4 master classes on painting floral compositions with Tanvi Pathare
Wine tasting
Afternoon tea & baking lesson with in-house pastry chef
Pasta cooking class
Olive oil tasting
Guided tours of the VL orto & flower farm, with flower cutting session
Daily Yoga
Access to Villa Lena facilities including 2 pools, 2 bars and beautiful common areas.

That sounds like an amazing way to spend some time in Tuscany! Interested?

Click here for more information and to book.

Full disclosure: If you follow this link and book a stay at the Villa Lena, I earn a small commission. Thank you!

Having a meal at the Villa Lena in Tuscany

Visit Villa Lena

Villa Lena is located in the heart of Tuscany between Pisa and Florence. The villa hosts retreats and offers agriturismo accommodation.

Aerial view of the pool at the Villa Lena in Tuscany — Villa Lena in Tuscany

View over the Tuscan countryside — Pool overlooking the Tuscany countryside at Villa Lena

Staying at the Villa Lena

The accommodations at Villa Lena are stylish and comfortable. I’m imagining myself sitting in front of that view doing some writing. I’ve always found Tuscany an incredibly inspiring place to work and can’t wait to get back there in Fall 2023.

view from a room at Villa Lena — View from a room at Vill Lena

Villa Lena Foundation

The villa is also affiliated with the Villa Lena Foundation, a not-for-profit organization dedicated to supporting international contemporary artists working in art, music, film, literature, fashion, and other creative disciplines, and fostering opportunities for multi-disciplinary dialogue. If you’re an artist, you can apply to do at residency at the Villa Lena Foundation. Applications open soon for residencies in 2024. Check the Villa Lena Foundation website for details.

Conclusion

Are you traveling to Tuscany this spring? Consider spending time at the Villa Lena learning flower painting with Tanvi Pathare. You’ll come away with a renewed appreciation of the beauty of nature and a painting or two that you’ve created.

Have you ever taken an art workshop or gone on a painting retreat? Share your experience and suggestions with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.

Here are some more posts about artists and artsy traveling in Tuscany:

15 Must-Dos in Copenhagen for the Artsy Traveler

March 3, 2023March 11, 2023Activities, Denmark, Destinations, Get Inspired carolcram Leave a Comment

Last updated on March 11th, 2023 at 05:03 am

Put Copenhagen on your list of must-see European cities. It’s small enough to tour in a few days and large enough to reward a longer stay.

I stayed for eight nights in Copenhagen in September 2022, while my husband and partner-in-travel Gregg Simpson had an exhibition of his paintings at Galleri Bredgade 22 close to the picturesque Nyhavn area of the city. I could have easily filled another eight days. Even so, I was able to pack a lot into the time I had available.

This post highlights my top fifteen sites and experiences.

Get Your Bearings

Before starting, check the map below. Most of my suggested sites in Copenhagen city itself are within walking distance of each other. The last four sites are outside Copenhagen and easily accessible by train.

Places mapped by Wanderlog, the best trip planner app on iOS and Android

#1: Get the Copenhagen Card

The first item on my list isn’t a site but rather the card you’ll need to tour most of the rest of my recommendations. The Copenhagen Card is truly a bargain. With it, you can get into just about every museum and notable site in the city and use it on all the subways, busses, and trains in the Capital Region (a very large swathe of land that includes Copenhagen and most sites within an hour train ride).

You can purchase the Copenhagen Card for varying lengths. I purchased a five-day card which was perfect and allowed me to see almost everything I wanted to explore.

To find out if it’s worth your while to purchase a Copenhagen Card, choose the sites and museums you want to visit, check their prices online, and then compare them with the cost of the card. I pretty much guarantee you’ll find that the Copenhagen Card will be worth its price.

Click the image below to purchase the Copenhagen card.

#2: Take a Bike Tour

A good idea is to take a bike tour on the first day or two you’re in Copenhagen. That way, you’ll get the “lay of the land” while also ticking off a few of the most touristy sites such as the Little Mermaid (you only need to see her once!), some of the parks, and Nyhavn.

I joined a small bike tour for a 90-minute joy ride through Copenhagen and loved every minute of it. Copenhagen is made for cycling. You have your own lanes and your own traffic lights, and everyone knows and obeys the rules.

Meeting the Copenhagen Bike Tour

I met the tour at the bike racks in Kongen Nytorv (#2 on the map above), the large square not far from where we were staying in Nyhavn (see my review of our fabulous apartment). Our guide showed us the basic hand signals for turning left and right and stopping, assigned each of us in the group of six people a large and sturdy bike, reviewed how to change gears, and then boom, we were off. Helmets? What helmets?

Carol Cram standing with a bike in Copenhagen prior to going on a bike tour — Meeting the bike tour in Kongens Nytorv near Nyhavn

Riding around Copenhagen on a bike makes you feel like a real Copenhager. Everyone cycles here–young and old. Even if you’re not much of a cyclist, or out of practice (as I was), you’ll have no trouble cycling in flat Copenhagen. I think I changed gears once to go up a very slight incline in the area near the Little Mermaid.

King’s Garden

We rode for about ten minutes to the King’s Garden (Kongens Have – #5 on the map), where our guide gave us a quick history of Denmark and Copenhagen. He was a font of knowledge. While you could rent a bike and explore Copenhagen on your own, I recommend taking a tour. You’ll learn a lot, and also get the chance to chat with some fellow travelers.

The King’s Garden includes an attractive castle surrounded by a moat and plenty of tree-lined paths. In September, locals were hanging out on the lawns enjoying the sunshine.

Nyboder

We rode next to Nyboder (#6 on the map), an area of historic row houses that housed sailors in the 18th century. Our guide shared interesting information about the hard life of sailors and their families back in the day.

We then checked out both of Copenhagen’s mermaids. To read about them, see #3 below.

Gefion Fountain

A highlight for me was hearing the story attached to the Gefion Fountain (#10 on the map), which we rode to after visiting with the mermaids. The fountain depicts the mythical story of the creation of the island of Zealand upon which Copenhagen is situated. According to legend, the Swedish king Gylfi promised Gefjun (a goddess) that she could have all the land she could plow in a night. Well, being a bit of a resourceful lass, Gefjun turned her four sons into oxen and plowed out a Zealand-shaped chunk of land which was then thrown into the Danish sea to become the Zealand we know today. She left behind a hole that is now Lake Mälaren in Sweden.

What a woman!

Royal Palace & Opera House

We rode to a location where we could see both Royal Palace (#14) and the fabulous modern opera house (#15) directly across the harbor. Our guide talked a lot about the many environmental innovations Denmark is pioneering, including exciting new ways of recycling trash and using wind energy. Denmark is an inspiration for the rest of the world.

He also talked about the royal family and Queen Margrethe II who was celebrating her 50-year jubilee in 2022. In fact, several celebrations were going on while we were in Copenhagen. Apparently, the royal family are very well liked in Denmark, the Queen in particular. One of her many accomplishments is illustrating The Lord of the Rings, much to the admiration of Tolkein himself.

Royal opera house in Copenhagen — Opera house

Nyhavn

The bike tour ended in Nyhavn (#1) where our guide provided us with plenty of interesting commentary about living in Copenhagen and the remarkable social success story that is Denmark. Yes, there are still problems, but overall, Denmark is having enviable success compared to most other countries when it comes to solving many of the 21st century’s most pressing social and environmental challenges.

In the photo below, you can see the building where we stayed. It’s the dark orange one between the brown and tan buildings to the right of the guide.

Guide standing in front of Nyhavn harbor in Copenhagen — Our knowledgeable guide telling us about Nyhavn

You can choose from plenty of bike tours and even book a private tour. Here are some options:

#3: Check out BOTH Mermaids

Yes, there are two–the famous one in the harbor that is mobbed with tourists, and the not-so-famous one about ten minutes away. Called the Genetically Modified Mermaid (#7), the statue is blissfully lonely. When I visited with the bike tour (see above), we were the only people checking her out.

Her more conventionally depicted sister mermaid sits in the harbor and basks in the glow of a thousand cell phones. Getting a picture of her requires some judicious zooming in to avoid the crowds.

The bronze statue of the Little Mermaid (#9) by sculptor Edvard Eriksen is inspired by the 1837 fairy tale by beloved Danish author Hans Christian Andersen. The statue has reached iconic status worldwide and is a must-stop on every tour itinerary. It’s a pleasant place to pause for a few minutes to enjoy views of Copenhagen’s massive harbor.

Genetically modified mermaid - a statue of a mermaid in Copenhagen — Genetically modified mermaid

Statue of the Little Mermaid in Copenhagen Harbor — Famous mermaid

#4: Take Pictures in Nyhavn

We stayed in a beautiful two-bedroom apartment in Nyhavn (#1) and I’m so glad we did. The area was once very sketchy–think rough pubs and brothels–but after major renovations and rebranding, Nyhavn has become one of the most recognizable regions in all of Copenhagen. In fact, nowadays you’d be hard-pressed to find any tourist info about Denmark that didn’t include a picture of Nyhavn.

The colorful buildings, old ships, and numerous sidewalk cafes are irresistible. I spent quite a bit of time taking photographs at various times of day to capture the shifting light.

According to the guide on my bike tour (see above), the restaurants in Nyhavn are overly touristy and over-priced. He has a point. We ate at one and yes, it was on the pricy side, which is saying something in pricy Copenhagen. But the setting really can’t be beat, so at least stop at one of the sidewalk cafes to enjoy a drink and watch the world go by.

Here’s a selection of photos from different images and in different lights of what must be the world’s most photogenic harbor.

#5: Eat Smørbrød

This is not optional! When you visit Copenhagen, you have to eat several pieces of smørbrød. These hearty, open-faced sandwiches consist of rugbrod rye bread heaped up with a dizzying array of fresh and artfully displayed ingredients. Your biggest challenge will be deciding which smørbrød to choose.

They are surprisingly filling. I found that two or three were plenty for a good lunch. You’ll find smørbrød at many restaurants around Copenhagen and beyond. Also check out cafes in places outside Copenhagen where you’re likely to find less expensive but just as fabulous smørbrød. Here are two plates of smørbrød–one enjoyed in Nyhavn on our first day and the other for a lovely dinner in Tivoli Gardens.

Two Smørbrød on a plate, a specialty in Copenhagen — Smørbrød for a snack

Four Smørbrød on a plate in Copenhagen — Smørbrød for dinner

#6: Tour the Design Museum

The Designmuseum Danmark (AKA the Danish Design Museum – #8) was the first museum we visited in Copenhagen and it set a high bar! It’s a wonderful place with interesting and gorgeously displayed exhibits and plenty of commentary in Danish and English. You could spend all day there and still want to come back for more.

Even if you’re not “into” design, carve some time out of your Copenhagen stay to visit the Design Museum. Everyone sits on chairs and uses cutlery–and both these things, along with a ton more items we use every day, are featured in the context of design. The museum tells the story of Danish design of everything from furniture to objects to textiles to cutlery to posters, and a lot more.

The many rooms in the Designmuseum Danmark are arranged around themed exhibitions. For the most up-to-date information about current exhibitions, see the museum’s website.

Display of modern furniture at the Danish Design Museum

Check out my post A Trio of Must-See Museums in Copenhagen for a more comprehensive description of what you’ll see at the DesignMuseum Danmark.

#7: Visit the Danish National Museum

Called the Nationalmuseet (#12), this major museum is also worth several hours of your time on even a short trip to Copenhagen. We particularly enjoyed the prehistory collection (once of the best-displayed and best-explained I’ve ever seen) and the large exhibition devoted to the Vikings. They were a busy lot, as you’ll find out.

The museum is quite vast. Go early in the morning when you have energy and pace yourself! What I enjoyed the most was the cleverness of the displays. Everything is presented so artfully, which is fitting for a country famed for its design chops. And fortunately, as with the Design Museum, all the displays are accompanied by excellent commentary in both Danish and English.

Check out my post A Trio of Must-See Museums in Copenhagen for a more comprehensive description of what you’ll see at the Nationalmuseet.

#8: Visit Tivoli Gardens at Night

Tivoli Gardens (#11) is an amusement park right smack in the middle of downtown Copenhagen. It’s one of the sites included with the Copenhagen Card, which is a good thing because I don’t think it’s worth the fairly steep admission price. Mind you, we’re not into rides and midway games–both of which take up a fair chunk of the park.

That said, go in the early evening to stroll through the beautifully designed gardens and view the pavilions, have dinner at a restaurant overlooking one of the bodies of water, and then marvel at the fabled lights. It’s a beautiful place to spend an evening.

We enjoyed an excellent meal at a restaurant overlooking the pirate ship. The server kindly took our picture.

Carol and Gregg sitting at an outdoor table in Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen — Dinner al fresco at Tivoli Gardens

After dinner, we checked out the famous pagoda, listened to the screamsof the people braving the rides, and then called it a night.

#9: Go to a Concert at the DR Koncerthuset

We love going to classical music concerts when we travel in Europe and so got tickets for a concert at the DR Koncerthuset (#13), an ultra-modern, acoustically stunning hall a short metro ride from the center of Copenhagen.

We had perfect seats close to the front and in line with the piano keyboard (always a priority for me!). The concert included a Rachmaninoff concerto that knocked our socks off.

View of the stage at the DR Koncerthuset in Copenhagen

As soon as you know when you’ll be visiting Copenhagen, check out what concerts are on and get tickets in advance. The DR Koncerthuset website is in English and Danish.

#10: Wander the Pedestrian Streets

Copenhagen was one of the first (if not the first) European city to designate certain streets in the center of the city as “pedestrians only” in the early 1960s. The main street is called Strøget (#4). At 1.1 km, it’s still one of Europe’s longest pedestrian streets and stretches from City Hall Square to Kongens Nytorv. You’ll find a lot of stores lining both sides–both budget chains and designer shops.

I remember being amazed by the Strøget when I visited Copenhagen in 1970. I’d never seen a pedestrianized street like it. My mom and I spent several happy hours wandering up and down it, shopping for Danish souvenirs and eating smørbrød. The name Strøget also refers to several other streets in the area including Frederiksberggade, Nygade, Vimmelskaftet and Østergade and Nytorv square, Gammeltorv Square and Amagertorv Square.

Take your time and explore the many streets in the area while soaking up the very Danish vibe.

#11: Eat Lakrids by Bülow

I had never heard of Lakrids and now I’m hooked! Fortunately for my waistline, they are not easy to find in Vancouver. However, the next time I visit Copenhagen, I’m stocking up.

What is Lakrids by Bülow? Only the most scrumptious, luscious, and luxurious licorice I’ve ever tasted. It is a premium brand with a premium price, but oh-so-worth-it for the licorice lover. The delectable balls come in a dizzying variety of colors and flavors. I only bought one tube and have regretted it ever since!

I discovered a beautiful display of Lakrids by Bülow in the very posh Magasin du Nord in an iconic building on the Kongens Nytorv, the central square very close to Nyhavn where we were staying.

Even if you’re not a licorice lover, go to the Magasin du Nord (#3), try a free sample of the licorice bites, and then check out the rest of the store.

The fashionable department store dates back to 1869 and covers five floors in addition to the basement that houses the food market. Here, you’ll find a fabulous selection of fresh and prepared food that reminded me of the Harrods food floor in London. It’s a great place to pick up ingredients for a meal if your accommodations have a kitchen.

I spent a fair bit of time exploring the household goods and posh Danish souvenirs (not the plastic variety sold in the souvenir shops, but the really nice, Danish design variety). Magasin du Nord is the place to pick up exquisitely designed candlesticks, platters, cutlery, Danish china, and the like. I could have spent a lot of money there! Actually, I did spend a lot of money there…

Exploring the Capital Region of Denmark

After enjoying Copenhagen, venture outside the city where you’ll find plenty to do and see. You’ll also still save money with the Copenhagen Card on both the transportation and at the sites themselves.

Here’s a map of the Capital Region of Denmark to orient yourself. Each of the four destinations listed is no more than 40 minutes by train from Copenhagen. If you have lots of energy, you could visit Hamlet’s Castle (Helsginor), the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art and Frederiksborg Castle in one full day and then reserve another day for the Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde.

Trip map created using Wanderlog, a travel planner on iOS and Android

#12: Visit “Hamlet’s Castle”

Venture outside Copenhagen to visit Kronborg Castle (#1 on the Danish Capital Region Map above) in Helsingor, about a 40-minute train ride north. Both the castle and the train fare are covered by the Copenhagen Card.

Kronborg Castle is the setting for Shakespeare’s Hamlet, although Shakespeare never saw it. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the castle is worth a visit to tour its many rooms, learn about Danish history, and enjoy views over the water to Sweden from its narrow windows. Also spend time exploring the charming little town of Helsingor. Although there’s lots for the tourist to see, the town doesn’t feel touristy. It feels very, well, Danish.

Check out more information about Kronborg Castle and Helsingor in my post Three Recommended Day Trips from Copenhagen.

#13: Visit the Louisiana Gallery of Modern Art

Consider visiting the Louisiana Gallery of Modern Art (#3 on the map above) on the same day you visit Helsingor. The two places are very close to each other (with the Louisiana Gallery just south of Helsingor) and together make for a perfect day trip out of Copenhagen.

The Louisiana Museum is one of Europe’s most renowned museums of modern art. For me, the stars of the place are the outdoor sculptures artfully arranged in the magnificent natural setting overlooking the North Sea and Sweden. Go on a day when the weather is clear so you can fully appreciate the views.

Sculpture at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art

Check out more information about the Louisiana Gallery of Modern Art in my post Three Recommended Day Trips from Copenhagen.

#14: Visit Frederiksborg Castle

Another good day trip out of Copenhagen is to Frederiksborg Castle (#2). It’s an enormous place, very atmospherically located in a large lake. You can even take a launch (cost covered by the Copenhagen Card!) from the little town of Frederiksborg to the castle (or take a bus from the train station). The castle itself is quite sumptuous and very large. Wear your walking shoes!

After touring the castle, spend some time in the landscaped gardens before returning to the charming little town of Frederiksborg for lunch.

Carol Cram on the little launch crossing the lake to Fredericksborg in Denmark with the Fredericksborg Castle in the background — On the little launch crossing the lake to Frederiksborg with the castle in the background

Check out more information about Frederiksborg Castle in my post Three Recommended Day Trips from Copenhagen.

#15: Visit Roskilde

The town of Roskilde, about thirty minutes west of Copenhagen (train fare covered by the Copenhagen card!), is home to the Viking Ship Museum (#4). The town was once the capital of Denmark and fairly oozes history, particularly if you’re into Vikings (and who isn’t?).

Full disclosure–I didn’t get time to visit Roskilde on my recent trip to Copenhagen. However, it’s definitely on my list which is why it’s included in this post. The Viking Ship Museum is built around the five original Viking ships from Skuldelev that are part of a global story about ships, people, and things on voyages. The focus of the museum is to tell the story of how the Vikings changed the world with their ships.

For more information about the Viking Ship Museum, check out the website.

Conclusion

Copenhagen is a gem of a city. It’s compact, clean, easy to navigate, and friendly. It doesn’t have a bustling, big-city vibe. Instead, it feels like a place where people are happy to live. If you want to hang out with a lot of very healthy-looking people who all seem to ride bikes and love the outdoors and you like great museums and artfully presented food, then Copenhagen should be your next European destination.

Have you visited Copenhagen? Share your suggestions in the comments below.

Here are some more posts about Copenhagen:

Travel Photography As Art: Tips for Taking Great Shots by Guest Poster Julie H. Ferguson

December 19, 2022December 19, 2022Activities, Get Inspired, Travel Smart carolcram 1 Comment

For most travelers, taking photgraphs is an integral part of exploring new destinations. Some people snap quick photos with their SmartPhones while others travel with several cameras and apply their training and a good eye to taking memorable, even exhibition-worthy photographs. Guest poster Julie H. Ferguson falls into the latter category.

Julie describes how she discovered her love of photography and shares her travel photography tips to help the Artsy Traveler take great pictures.

The cover photo for this post, previously exhibited, shows an iceberg in Baffin Bay, where Julie sailed on an expedition ship in the summer of 2022.

How I Got Started with Travel Photography

I believe photography is an art form, while travel is an addiction. Together, they make a magical combination.

My father was an accomplished painter in oils and watercolors who took me to all the great museums and galleries in the UK and some in Europe. A serious amateur, he was good enough to exhibit in the Royal Academy. He also tried hard to get me drawing and painting from an early age. However, I didn’t have his talent and got frustrated when I couldn’t reproduce what I was seeing. And then, when I was ten, Dad had a brainwave and bought me a Kodak Brownie camera. Finally, I found a way to reproduce what I was seeing! Since then, I always have a camera in my hand.

Guest poster Julie H. Ferguson in Croker Bay on a cruise to Canada's Arctic in 2022 — Guest poster Julie H. Ferguson in Croker Bay on an expedition to Canada’s High Arctic (Nunavut) in 2022 (Courtesy: Susan Dixon)

My Photography Passion Expands

For years, I employed what my father taught me about composition, color, and light, especially after I acquired my first single lens reflex camera. I bought my first digital camera in 1999 and was hooked. I joined a camera club in 2005, practised a lot, and learned how to edit my images on a computer.

Now, I own four cameras — two Nikons and lenses, one small but mighty Lumix that fits in my pocket when I’m doing active things like riding camels, and an old GoPro. I have about 50,000 images in the Cloud and have not stopped practising.

Selection of cameras used by guest poster Julie H. Ferguson when taking travel photographs — Julie’s cameras go everywhere with her when she travels

Exhibiting My Travel Photography

Our visual, connected world has seen an explosion in photography recently but, oddly enough, not much of an increase in photography exhibitions. Go to any small or large gallery, and you will rarely see photographs on display. I try to find photography exhibitions wherever I am in the world and am not always successful, but at least I can enjoy the world’s best travel photographers’ work online. Here are two of my favorite websites:

The excellent art gallery near where I live in Penticton, BC, asked my camera club, the Penticton Photography Club, to mount a small exhibition in collaboration with fibre artists in 2021. This was the first photography exhibit the gallery had mounted in its ninety-nine-year existence. I sold my first image at this exhibition — a thrilling moment for me after over twelve years of exhibiting. It was validating, and I felt I had honored my father’s long ago training sessions.

Guest poster Julie h. Ferguson next to photographs she exhibited — Julie next to the first photograph (R) she sold at an exhibition of the Naramata Inn near Penticton, BC (Courtesy: Merle Kindred)

What Kind of Camera Should You Use?

The best camera you have is the one in your hand is an old saying but it’s spot on! Today, the newer phone cameras are exceptional, and I use mine when I’m stuck without one of my cameras. It takes very sharp images with true colors, and manages low light quite well. The video is good too, although I prefer taking stills because I enjoy the challenge.

My Travel Photography Tips

Do you, like me, view photography as more than a snapshot? Perhaps even art? If so, here are some simple travel photography tips to up your game for taking great travel shots.

Travel Photography Tip 1: Keep it straight

Here’s how to avoid shooting wonky horizons and leaning buildings

Line up the horizon to be parallel with the top or bottom of the screen; line up the side of buildings with the side of the screen.
Don’t tip your camera up or down—keep it parallel to the ground.

An iceberg near Baffin Island in Canada's Arctic--an example of good travel photography — Keeping the horizon line straight and focusing on the foreground

Travel Photography Tip 2: Avoid fuzzy images

Fuzzy images are generally caused by camera shake or poor focussing. Here’s how to fix:

Camera shake (everything is fuzzy): Never hold your camera or phone at arm’s length as it bounces when you click the shutter down. Wedge it against something or fix your elbows on a wall, your chest, or your knees before pressing the shutter.

Out of focus (the subject is fuzzy): Press the shutter halfway down and wait for the camera to focus on the subject. If using a phone, tap the screen over the subject. When shooting people or animals focus on the eye closest to you.

Travel Photography Tip 3: Find great light

Don’t shoot into the sun. The best light is during the golden hour after sunrise and before sunset.

Travel Photography Tip 4: Take great people shots

Light people effectively: Take portraits in the shade or on an overcast day to avoid ugly shadows on faces and squinty eyes in bright sunlight. Dark or silhouetted portraits are caused by bright light behind them from skies, sun, sea, or snow.

Close-up hotograph of a woman whosing how to take people photos without harsh shadows. — An example of a portrait that demonstrates harsh shadows under the nose, deep wrinkles, and squinty eyes in bright midday sun.

Put your focus point on the subject by holding down the shutter halfway while the camera focuses. If your camera has an interactive screen, tap over the subject, or tap the subject on your phone’s screen.

Photograph of two camel traders in Morocco as an example of Travel Photograph Tip 4: keeping the focus point on the subject. — In 2018 at the Pushkar Camel Fair, two chiefs haggle good-naturedly over the price of one camel.

If you’re shooting inside and using flash, move your subjects away from the walls by at least a metre to avoid unsightly shadows behind them.

Travel Photography Tip 5: Apply effective composition principles

Avoid placing your subject (focus point) in the middle of the frame. Use the “Rule of Thirds” and put your subject in the area of one of the red dots in the diagram — it’s more pleasing to the eye.

Diagram showing the Rule of Thirds - Travel Photograph Tip 5.

This photograph of an Inu elder in Canada's Arctic demonstrates the trave; photography tip related to the principle of thirds — This photograph of an Inuk elder in Canada’s Arctic demonstrates the Rule of Thirds and the need for space in front of her.

Travel Photograph Tip 6: Avoid shooting where you are standing

Walk around your subject if possible; move right and left, forward and back, and up and down to find the best angle for your shot.

Ziz Gorge in Morocco - an example of photograph tip 6: avoid shooting where you are standing. — Making this huge rock the focal point using the Rule of Thirds with leading lines in this shot of the Ziz Gorge in Morocco

Travel Photography Tip 7: Practise often!

It’s digital, so you can take as many photos as you like, and your “eye” will begin to improve, and the above tips will become more automatic.

Avoid taking a new camera on vacation without taking 2001+ photographs before you go!

Editing Your Photographs

I always endeavour to get the picture I want right in the camera, but I do appreciate the creativity that the digital darkroom affords. In fact, I love the editing as much as taking the photographs. This is where the magic happens for me.

Once you start getting comfortable with your camera, you might want to take the next step and get an editing app for your phone or computer. There’s plenty of suggestions online or from camera club members to get you started . For example, my favourites are Adobe Photoshop and the Nik Collection, the first of which has a steep learning curve (check out this guide to learning Photoshop). Other apps are effective and easy to use.

Conclusion

Upping your photography game when travelling takes some practice and thought. It’s well worth the effort both for personal satisfaction and as a means of preserving your memories.

Safe travels!

Read about Julie H. Ferguson on the Artsy Traveler Guest Posters page.

Cooking in Roma with InRome Cooking

October 10, 2022March 11, 2023Activities, Destinations, Get Inspired, Italy carolcram 2 Comments

Last updated on March 11th, 2023 at 08:54 pm

Culinary tourism is definitely a thing, and nowhere more so than in Italy. Food tours and cooking classes abound and for good reason. Italy and food go together like, well, Italy and food.

The popularity of Stanley Tucci’s series Searching for Italy about food in Italy is proof that eating and cooking continue to be two of the many artsy reasons to travel in Italy.

Is cooking an art? Absolutely!

And so, while spending a week in Rome in 2022, I decided to take a cooking class. I’d taken a cooking class in Paris, and one of my guest posters, Liz Reding, has written a post about her cooking class experiences in France and Spain.

It was time for Italy to take a turn.

Choosing InRome Cooking

I chose a 3-hour cooking class with InRome Cooking. Here’s the link to register if, after reading this post, you’re interested in taking the class.

Full disclosure – the link takes you to the Tiqets.com website, which is one of my affiliates. That means I get a small percentage of the ticket price if you register.

Cut to the chase–I highly recommend taking a 3-hour class with InRome Cooking. The time flew by and not only did I learn a lot, but I also enjoyed a fabulous meal that I’d cooked myself with some help from my new friends and chef Marco.

About InRome Cooking

InRome Cooking operates out of three locations:

Flagship school on Corso del Rinascimento in a converted 17th-century palace very close to the Piazza Navona and overlooking the Italian parliament. This is the location for the Hands-on Pasta Making Class & Tiramisù class I took.
A sleek and stylish terraced building near the Pantheon on Via Giustiniani.
A cooking school located in the Pope’s organic farm at his private estate in Castel Gandolfo outside Rome.

My Experience with InRome Cooking

In this post, I write about my experience taking a 3-hour class at the Corso del Rinascimento location.

InRome Cooking offers several classes–either shared or private.

I chose the Hands-on Pasta Making Class & Tiramisù for two reasons. First, my husband, Gregg Simpson, had recently discovered the delectable delights of Tiramisù and so I thought it would be good to learn how to make it at home. And second, I have a pasta maker gathering dust in my cupboard, and felt it was high time I learned how to use it correctly.

Both goals were met during the course of the evening.

Registering for a Class with InRome Cooking

I registered for the class about three days in advance, in October 2022. The registration process through Tiqets.com was quick and efficient. Within seconds, I had my ticket downloaded and ready to show. It’s advisable to register well in advance. I was probably lucky to get a spot because the class of just twelve participants was full.

Arriving at InRome Cooking

Promptly at 5:20, I arrived at InRome Cooking located at Corso del Rinascimento, 65 after passing it and then doubling back. You have to look closely to see the rather small InRome Cooking sign on the door.

View of the InRome Cooking sign at Corso del Rinascimento, 65 in Rome — InRome Cooking next to the buzzer at Corso del Rinascimento, 65

For a few moments, I was flummoxed, but soon figured out that I needed to ring the buzzer to be let in. A voice answered (phew!), the buzzer buzzed, and I climbed two flights of marble stairs in the converted 17th-century palazzo. I do like a nice palazzo.

I was met at the top of the stairs by Chef Marco holding a clipboard and smiling broadly. He ushered me into a gorgeous, light-filled kitchen and introduced me to my companions for the evening: a mother and son from Arizona; a mother and son from Sweden, a mom and dad and son from San Francisco, and two couples from Toronto.

The InRome Cooking kitchen with ingredients set out to make Tiramisù

The evening began promptly at 5:30 with a welcome glass of prosecco. We were then placed around the large table already laden with the ingredients and utensils we’d need to make Tiramisù.

Carol Cram at InRome Cooking — Me with chef Marco

Making Tiramisù

We started by making dessert so it would have time to set before enjoying it at the end of the evening.

Chef Marco paired us up and told us to get cracking (literally!). We each separated an egg to get two yolks. The whites were whisked away to be beaten by the sous chefs for later folding into the Tiramisù. We then set to work beating the gorgeous yellow yolks.

Marco told us that fresh eggs are essential for Tiramisù (or indeed any cooking). They shouldn’t be much older than a few weeks and preferably from local hens. I’m lucky that I live on an island where fresh eggs are readily available.

Throughout the evening, Marco emphasized that great cooking starts with the very freshest of ingredients. You don’t need many ingredients to create a wonderful dish when each ingredient is top quality.

Tiramisù Ingredients

For the Tiramisù, we used only six ingredients: fresh eggs, sugar, mascarpone cheese, ladyfingers (called savoiardi), cold coffee, and cocoa powder (unsweetened) for the topping. Tiramisù translates literally as “pick me up,” a direct result of the espresso used in the recipe.

Tiramisù Method

Under Marco’s expert tutelage, we beat sugar into the egg yolks until the color was a rich and creamy light yellow. The more we beat, the creamier the eggs became. I’d say we beat for at least five minutes. Fortunately, Marco supplied links to recipes at the end of the class so I didn’t need to make notes.

After beating the eggs and sugar, we stirred in very generous dollops of mascarpone cheese. Marco emphasized that precise measuring is not necessary in Italian cooking. A generous tablespoon looked to me more like two or three level tablespoons. But then is there such a thing as too much marscapone?

Next step was folding in generous spoonfuls of whipped egg yolks.

Layering the Tiramisù

With our creamy, eggy, cheesy concoction all mixed and ready to go, we were ready to build our Tiramisù. Marco handed each of us a lovely big tea cup (I suppose coffee cup would be more accurate!) and demonstrated the next steps.

First, I took a ladyfinger biscuit and dipped it quickly into the bowl of cold espresso. Down and up, no lingering. The ladyfinger should absorb the coffee but not be dissolved by it. I then broke the ladyfinger in two and placed it at the bottom of the cup.

Next, I spooned in half of the creamy, eggy, cheesy mixture and then dipped and broke another ladyfinger. Finally, I slathered on the rest of the creamy stuff.

One more step! We were given shakers of pure, unsweetened cocoa to sprinkle on top of the Tiramisù and directed to carve something meaningful into the cocoa so we’d know which one is ours.

Here’s my first (and extremely delicious) attempt at Tiramisù with my initials etched in with a toothpick:

A serviing of Tiramisù made at the InRome Cooking school — Tiramisù made at InRome Cooking

Making Pasta

The Tiramisùs were whisked away and the large workspace cleaned by the staff while I mingled for a while with the other guests and enjoyed another glass of prosecco. Two of the people from Toronto had been to Bowen Island where I live, and one has a friend who has just written her first historical novel. Coincidentally, it’s about a subject that intrigued me after visiting the Back to Backs National Trust property in Birmingham. Small world.

We were to make two kinds of pasta: cacio e pepe and amatriciana. It turned out we wouldn’t be making the sauces; Marco demonstrated that. Our job was to make the pasta.

Marco showed us how to mix the two flours and then to knead in the olive oil to make a beautiful, yellow dough. Next step was to pass the dough through the rollers of the pasta maker several times to flatten it and then through the cutters.

The pasta makers were equipped with two cutters–one to make spaghetti which we later ate with the cacio e pepe sauce and one to make fettucine, which we ate with the amatriciana sauce.

Carol Cram passing pasta dough through a pasta maker at the InRome Cooking school — Carol flattening the pasta

Making the Sauces

As he had all evening, Marco emphasized the importance of using just a few, top quality ingredients.

Amatriciana Sauce

The amatriciana sauce contains only three ingredients: Mutti tomato sauce (it only contains tomatoes grown in Italy, of course), small pieces of pork cheek that have been very slowly cooked to release the fat and flavor, and romano cheese.

Marco cooked the fettucine we’d just made for a very few minutes and then showed us how to combine the pasta with the three-ingredient sauce. The smell was amazing!

Cacio e pepe Sauce

This sauce is a Roman specialty and is the simplest of all. Only two ingredients are used–romano cheese and freshly ground pepper. That’s it! Marco demonstrated how he makes the sauce by stirring the starchy water from the boiled pasta into the cheese to make a rich, creamy sauce. He then added the fresh pepper. The result was to die for!

Chef Marco at InRome Cooking school making pasta — Making Amatriciana

Chef Marco at InRome Cooking school adding spaghetti to a sauce. — Making Cacio e pepe

Eating the Results

Following the demonstrations of how the pasta is combined with the two sauces to make Amatriciana and Cacio e pepe, we were invited into the adjacent dining room, complete with coffered, Renaissance style ceiling. I joined the table of Canadians and enjoyed pleasant conversation about travel and food while enjoying the fruits of the evening’s labors.

Conclusion

The three-hour cooking class (more like three and half by the time we finished eating) at InRome Cooking is a bargain at only €75 (price varies depending on which class you choose). Considering I enjoyed three delectable courses, learned a lot of valuable cooking tips and even got plenty of hands-on practice, I consider the fee very reasonable indeed.

Have you taken a cooking class in Rome? Share your experience in the comments below.

Favorite Concerts & Performances in Europe

February 17, 2022April 20, 2022Activities, Artsy Sightseeing, Get Inspired carolcram 1 Comment

Last updated on April 20th, 2022 at 02:17 am

When it comes to concerts and performances, Europe is like a chocolate box brimming over with artsy flavors. Venues in every city and town showcase a wide range of musical styles, from classical to traditional to rock. In addition to music concerts, you’ll find plenty of theater and dance performances, along with festivals and special events.

After two years of dark theaters and silent concert halls, Europe is roaring back to life in 2022. While some venues are not completely back to normal, chances are that if you’re traveling to Europe in 2022, you’ll discover opportunities to enjoy live entertainment.

Looking back at all the trips that Gregg and I have taken to Europe, we reminisce most often about the many wonderful performances we’ve enjoyed. Some of our favorite memories are of performances we stumbled across, often as a result of chatting with locals and fellow travelers, noticing posters and flyers, and checking out “What’s On” pages on local websites.

Posing before the Paris Philharmonie - concerts and performances in Europe — Gregg and I reflected in the ultra-modern façade of the Paris Philharmonie

But while I’m always open to serendipity when it comes to choosing performances and concerts, I also believe in planning ahead. I suggest that as soon as you know the dates of your trip, go online and search for concerts, performances, festivals and other live events that will be on while you’re traveling.

A search for “musicals in London”, “classical concerts in Paris”, or “dance performances, Seville” should yield good results. You can also use generic searches such as “what’s on in Berlin” or “concerts in Vienna” and then narrow down the choices to focus on the music genres that interest you.

In this post, I share some of the memorable concerts and performances we’ve enjoyed, listed by city.

Amsterdam

One of Europe’s most beautiful concert halls is Amsterdam’s Concertgebouw, located across from the Museumplein. Prior to the pandemic, free lunchtime concerts were held on Wednesdays in the small concert hall adjacent to the main hall.

When we were in Amsterdam in 2019, we enjoyed a lively performance by two vibraphonists. Check the website to find out when the lunchtime concerts will resume. You’ll join locals and very few other tourists for a marvelous (and free!) musical experience.

Exterior of the Concertgebouw in Amsterdam, a great place to see concerts and performances in Europe — The Concertgebouw in Amsterdam

Barcelona

The Ópera y Flamenco performance at the astonishingly exquisite Palau de la Música Catalana is not to be missed. Even if Ópera y Flamenco is not playing when you’re visiting Barcelona, check out the Palau de la Música Catalana website to see what’s on and, if possible, get tickets. A visit to the Palau de la Música will quite simply blow your mind!

Built between 1905 and 1908 by the modernist architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner, the Palau de la Música Catalana is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. If you can’t get tickets to a performance, you can still take a tour of the building.

Berlin

If you’re a classical music fan, check out what’s on at the impressive home of the Berlin Philharmonic (Berlin Philharmoniker). The building itself is fabulous with wonderful acoustics and worth touring even if you can’t see a concert there. We enjoyed an awe-inspiring performance of Stravinsky’s Rite of Spring performed by the Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin.

Check out the concert calendar and buy tickets from the Berlin Philharmoniker website.

Cologne

While we usually book tickets well in advance, we’re always open to attending concerts on the spur of the moment. One such memorable concert was at the Kölner Philharmonie, a magnificent concert hall a stone’s throw from Cologne’s famous cathedral and in the same complex as the wonderful Ludwig Museum.

We had just finished visiting the Romano-Germanic-Museum (a must-see!) and were walking past the Kölner Philharmonie when we noticed a poster for the evening’s concert. The programme appealed to us and so we inquired at the box office about tickets. The very friendly, English-speaking attendant told us that tickets were available and at a price we considered incredibly reasonable, at least compared to what we were accustomed to paying in Vancouver.

Two hours later, we took our seats in one of the most dazzling modern concert halls I’d ever been in. Built in 1986, the Kölner Philharmonie is constructed like an amphitheatre and provides near-perfect acoustics. Even the size and padding of the seats have been selected to ensure constant acoustics regardless of whether the seat is occupied.

Check the Kölner Philharmonie website to see what’s on.

Leipzig

Marvelous Leipzig is a must-visit for classical music lovers, particularly if you adore (like I do!) the music of Johann Sebastian Bach. Read my post about our visit to the Bach Museum (I still swoon when I think of it!).

While in Leipzig, we attended a wonderful concert at the famed Gewandhaus where the young Clara Wieck (who became Clara Schumann and the inspiration for my second novel, A Woman of Note) debuted as a solo pianist in 1828. Many other famous musicians have played at Gewandhaus and for that reason I was curious to see a performance there.

Exterior of the Gewandhaus concert venue in Leipzig, Germany, a stunning venue for concerts and performances in Europe — Gewandhaus concert hall in Leipzig, Germany

The ultra-modern Gewandhaus concert hall is nothing like the venue Clara played in, and is, in fact, the third concert hall to bear the name Gewandhaus, the first being built in 1781, the second in 1884 (designed by famed architect Martin Gropius), and the current hall in 1981.

We snagged tickets to a solo piano concert of music by Mozart and Chopin. What a treat, and, at less than $30CDN per ticket, probably the best value for a concert I’ve ever enjoyed. At the interval, we thought the concert was over. The pianist had played for so long that we couldn’t imagine he’d be able to perform any longer. As we prepared to leave, a local woman came up to us and told us in careful English that it was only the break and that we needed to stay for the second half. Gratefully, we returned to the concert hall to enjoy another ninety minutes of jaw-dropping music performed by the very hard-working pianist.

Check the Gewandhaus website to see what’s on.

Lisbon

When you’re visiting Lisbon, make time for a fado performance (or two). We favor the smaller clubs with intimate performances over the more touristy offerings.

A fado guitar; see fado performances while traveling in Portugal

Our favorite place for fado in Lisbon is Restaurante Canto do Camões on Travessa da Espera in the Bairro Alto. It’s low-key, with a friendly owner, good food, reasonable prices, and lots of fado. When we were there, singers dropped in, performed a few songs designed to rip our hearts out, collected a few euros from the proprietor, and then left, presumably to go sing in another place. Sadly, Restaurante Canto do Camões is now closed permanently; however, you’ll find other small restaurants that feature fado in the Bairro Alto and the Alfama.

You can also see fado performances in Porto and Coimbra. In Porto, we loved the performance at the Casa da Guitarra, which also included a glass of port. In Coimbra, fado is only sung by men. We saw a troupe of men who sing wearing traditional costumes at À Capella, a 14th-century chapel that includes a bar and tapas with the live fado serenades.

Skyline of Coimbra in Portugal, a great place to hear fado — Coimbra is a charming town and a great place to enjoy fado

London

The first thing I do after booking a trip to London is check out what’s playing in the West End and what’s on at the National Theater and the Globe. I’ve enjoyed so many memorable performances in London, starting in the 1970s when I was a student at Reading University, a 40-minute train ride from the bright lights of the West End. In those days, performances in London were so reasonably priced that even a student could afford them! Even now, I find that prices for musicals in the West End are far below what I’ve paid in New York.

Go to the London Theatre website, see what’s on and get tickets well in advance. You can also take your chances during your trip and purchase last-minute tickets, often at a reduced rate. However, I don’t recommend doing this for a performance that you really want to see.

But if you are flexible and open to seeing what’s playing, you could well get lucky. On a trip to London in 2018, I got a ticket for Mamma Mia on the day of the performance for just 40 GBP.

Before going to the theater, enjoy an early dinner at one of the many restaurants in the West End advertising pre-theatre menus.

And while planning your entertainment options in London, don’t forget to check out what’s on at venues such as the Albert Hall and the Barbican Centre. Another option is the lunchtime and evening concerts at the achingly lovely St Martin-in-the-Fields near Trafalgar Square.

Exterior of Saint Martins-in-the-Fields in London, a venue for classical music concerts — Saint Martins-in-the-Fields next to Trafalgar Square in London hosts classical music concerts

Paris

We love going to concerts in Paris. Spectacular venues such as the Opéra Bastille, the Paris Philharmonie and Sainte-Chapelle enhance the musical experiences, and the quality of the performances is always first-rate. Here are just a few of the venues to check out, particularly if you are a classical music lover.

Opéra Bastille

Seeing an opera in Paris is definitely a cool experience, and one that we hope to repeat as restrictions continue to lift. One of our most memorable opera experiences was seeing Götterdämmerung at the Opéra Bastille. Talk about mind-exploding!

Exterior of the Opera Bastille in Paris, a stunning venue for concerts and performances in Europe — Opéra Bastille in Paris

The Opéra national de Paris presents operas at two venues—the ultra chic and modern Opéra Bastille and the sumptuously decorated and historic Opéra Garnier. Check the website for the Opéra national de Paris.

Paris Philharmonie

The Philharmonie de Paris is just breathtaking! Located in Parc de la Villette in the northeast of Paris, the Philharmonie is a complex of buildings that also house exhibition spaces and rehearsal rooms. We attended a performance in the symphonic concert hall—a 2,400-seat über-modern venue designed by Jean Nouvel and opened in January 2015. It was a stunning experience.

Check the website for upcoming performances and events.

Piano Concerts at Église Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre

Located just across the Seine from Notre-Dame Cathedral in the 5^th arrondissement, the Église Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre is one of the oldest churches in Paris. Concerts featuring either solo piano or duos (e.g., violin and piano or cello and piano) are frequently held there—and they are well worth attending. We’ve been to several. Tickets are reasonably priced, the venue is deliciously ancient and atmospheric, and the quality of the playing is first-rate.

Exterior of Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre in the 5th arrondisement in Paris, across the Seine from Notre-Dame Cathedral. The church is a lovely venue for concerts and performances in Europe. — Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre is just across the Seine from Notre-Dame Cathedral

Check the website for upcoming concerts and keep an eye out for posters in the area (that’s how we discovered what was on).

Sainte-Chapelle Concerts

Fancy spending an hour or two staring up at sublimely beautiful stained glass supported by impossibly slender columns while listening to sublimely beautiful classical music? Then check out the website for Sainte-Chapelle’s concerts and purchase tickets for a performance. You won’t be disappointed!

Stained glass in the interior of Sainte-Chapelle in Paris, one of the most beautiful venues for concerts and performances in Europe — Imagine listening to music surrounded by this view!

We’ve enjoyed several concerts at Sainte-Chapelle and have always been transported into ever higher planes of awesomeness. A favorite evening out is to enjoy the performance at 7 pm and then to wander starry-eyed through the cobbled streets of Île de la Cité to Île Saint-Louis and dine at one of the many small bistros in the area. Artsy traveling doesn’t get much better!

Seville

We’re firm fans of flamenco. See my post describing the flamenco performance we enjoyed on our first visit to Seville. In Seville, you can see flamenco at several venues. I recommend two.

Flamenco Museum

From the website, purchase the combo ticket that includes the museum and a late afternoon flamenco performance that will leave you breathless.

Los Gallos

Situated in a charming little courtyard in the heart of Seville, Los Gallos is an intimate venue with world-class talent. Sip the Sangria included in the ticket price and prepare to be blasted into the stratosphere.

Stratford-upon-Avon

Every time I visit England, I do my best to squeeze in a trip to Stratford-upon-Avon to see a performance by the Royal Shakespeare Company. I have been fortunate to see many wondrous performances there, including productions of Romeo and Juliet and Hamlet that both starred the incomparable David Tennant.

When I was a student at Reading University, a two-hour drive southeast of Stratford-upon-Avon, I frequently made the trek to see a performance. I was studying for a degree in English Literature so taking in as many Shakespeare productions as possible was almost mandatory.

You can see Shakespeare productions at the Globe in London and the experience is highly recommended. However, I must admit that I prefer the productions at Stratford-upon-Avon. The seating is more comfortable, and the quality is top-notch. I liken seeing a production by the Royal Shakespeare Company as the auditory equivalent of looking at high-quality cut crystal. Every word and gesture is crisp and perfect.

When you go up to Stratford-upon-Avon to slake your Shakespeare yen, you also get the bonus of having time to wander the charming streets of Stratford. Sure, it’s a bit touristy, but so what? I love touring Shakespeare’s birthplace, paying my respects at his grave in the church, and watching the swans glide by on the River Avon.

Exterior of Shakespeare's home in Stratford-upon-Avon in England — Shakespeare’s birthplace in Stratford-upon-Avon

In August 2022, I’ll be visiting Stratford-upon-Avon again, this time to catch a performance of Richard III. Although admittedly not my favorite of Shakespeare’s History plays, I know I’ll see a production to remember.

Visit the RSC’s website for details about upcoming productions in Stratford-upon-Avon and London.

Venice

On one visit to Venice, we were strolling through the quiet streets after dark when we noticed a young man dressed in 18^th-century garb and carrying a violin case hurry past. We caught up to him and asked if he was a musician. He told us he was on his way to play a concert of 17^th- and 18^th-century music in a church. Did we like music like that?

Is Vivaldi Venetian?

Yes!

We followed him to the church and half an hour later were sitting beneath a mural painted by Titian and listening to a selection of Venetian classical music favorites. Bliss! The orchestra was clad in 18^th-century garb and the performance was obviously aimed at tourists, but that didn’t affect the quality of the musicianship or the depth of our enjoyment.

A mask and violin representing music in Venice, a place with many venues for concerts and performances — Hearing Baroque music in Venice just makes sense!

After the concert, we floated out into a warm evening to find ourselves moments later at the edge of the Grand Canal. A barge filled with another group of musicians in period dress slid past, the music wafting through the balmy air like the rustling of silk stockings.

Magical!

In Venice, several venues feature classical music concerts. Check out the Music in Venice website for programs and dates.

Verona

The Arena di Verona, the Roman amphitheatre in Verona, Italy, periodically presents operas to hundreds of fans who are mostly perched on the edge of very hard, very ancient Roman stone steps. We know because several years ago, we were such fans. To read about an evening that has become synonymous with disaster in our family, check out Meltdown in Verona.

Our experience aside, attending a performance at the Roman arena in Verona could be the magical experience we’d expected. The detailed RM Europa Tickets website contains information about all the opera festivals in Europe in 2022. You’ll find opera festivals in almost all European countries, along with a detailed list of venues and schedules, including the Arena di Verona.

The Arena di Verona, a venue for grand operas and other concerts and performances in Italy — Arena di Verona

Vienna

You can’t walk two feet in Vienna’s Stephansplatz without tripping over a bewigged young person trying to sell you tickets to a performance of Strauss, Mozart, or both. Vienna has several venues featuring tourist-oriented shows designed to showcase the oldie goldies of several of its most famous composers, particularly Johann Strauss.

The last time I visited Vienna, traveling solo, I attended a delightful string quartet concert at the gorgeous Sala Terrena, an intimate and heavily decorated venue in the center of the city. Mozart allegedly lived in the building in which the Sala Terrena is housed when he first came to Vienna as a young man. While you wait for the concert to begin, feast your eyes on the riotous Baroque frescoes and look out especially for the leopard! For more about my experience at the Sala Terrena concert, check out my post on Music in Vienna.

Interior of the Sala Terrena in Vienna, a charming venue for classical concerts and performances — Some of the frescoes at the Sala Terrena in Vienna

On the same trip to Vienna, I took the tram and then a bus out to Schloss Laudon (Water Palace) in the bucolic countryside surrounding Vienna to attend a concert that was part of the five-day Schloss Laudon festival. I discovered the festival while planning my trip to Vienna and was very glad I managed to snag a ticket for a performance that featured an early Beethoven piano trio in the style of Haydn and a marvelous rendition of Tchaikovsky’s piano trio.

Conclusion

With Europe opening up in 2022, performances are coming back to life. Check websites for venues and performance times, find out about current restrictions and requirements, and budget as much money as you can spare for live entertainment. You’ll be making memories that last a lifetime.

And keep a lookout for local folk performances that are often free, with some even encouraging participation. You’ll typically find these advertised in flyers and on posters. Watch a flag-waving demonstration by young people dressed in medieval garb in Siena, dance the Sardana in front of Barcelona Cathedral along with hundreds of locals and tourists, watch a concert featuring ancient instruments in a tiny chapel in Les Baux de Provence, and more! Keep your eyes and ears open; you never know what’s around the next corner.

Statue featuring several figures dancing the Sardana, a traditional dance in Barcelona, Spain — Statue commemorating the Sardana in Barcelona

Food as Art: FireWorks Feast at the Inn at Bay Fortune

September 8, 2021April 19, 2022Activities, Artsy Sightseeing, Canada, Destinations, Get Inspired, North America carolcram 1 Comment

Last updated on April 19th, 2022 at 03:41 pm

In 2021, I again put my European travel plans on hold and instead travel with my daughter to Nova Scotia and stunning Prince Edward Island. On one magical evening, we splash out on an Experience with a capital E—a stay at the five-star Inn at Bay Fortune and an evening enjoying the FireWorks Feast. Billed as an “immersive farm-to-table dining experience”, the FireWorks Feast is the brainchild of Chef Michael Smith.

As a long-time fan of cooking shows, I was familiar with Chef Michael, one of Canada’s best-known chefs. He and his wife purchased the Inn at Bay Fortune a few years ago and have transformed it into a truly memorable destination.

Is Food Art?

When food is presented like it is at the Inn at Bay Fortune’s FireWorks Feast, I’d say yes. Very much so.

Main entrance at the Inn at Bay Fortune in Prince Edward Island, home of the FireWorks Feast — The Inn at Bay Fortune in Prince Edward Island, Canada

Farm Tour at the FireWorks Feast

We arrive at the Inn at 4 pm just in time to grab a drink and head out across the massive lawn overlooking Bay Fortune on the southeast coast of Prince Edward Island to join our fellow FireWorks Feasters for the first leg of the FireWorks Feast Experience.

Young woman holding two glasses of wine at the Inn at Bay Fortune at the start of the FireWorks Feast — My daughter, Julia, holds her drink and mine in preparation for the Farm Tour portion of the FireWorks Feast

The Inn’s resident farmer, Kevin Petrie, stands in the middle of a circle of vibrantly painted Muskoka chairs (also known by my U.S. readers as Adirondack chairs) and holds forth about the Inn’s remarkable herb garden.

Raised beds containing herbs on the front lawn of the Inn at Bay Fortune on Prince Edward Island, Canada during the Farm Tour portion of the FireWorks Feast — Raised beds containing herbs on the front lawn of the Inn at Bay Fortune on Prince Edward Island, Canada

Kevin’s talk is the start of an hour-long farm tour that will take us from the front lawn to the extensive farm behind the Inn that features greenhouses, nursery beds, a mushroom patch, apple orchards, and even a Pots & Pans Trail.

Pots and Pans hanging on a tree at the Inn at Bay Fortune in Prince Edward Island — Pots and pans hanging on a tree along the Pots & Pans Trail at the Inn at Bay Fortune on Prince Edward Island

Kevin is a font of information about growing organic food. I learn that the cilantro plant yields at least eight edible parts, including roots, leaves, and flowers that each have a different taste and texture. The seeds are called coriander – a tidbit of knowledge I’d vaguely known and have now confirmed.

I also sample a chunk of the crispest, sweetest cucumber I’ve ever tasted—almost crisp and sweet enough to turn me from a cucumber tolerator to a cucumber enthusiast.

Farmer Petrie stands in front of a greenhouse at the Inn at Bay Fortune prior to the FireWorks Feast — Farmer Petrie stands in front of one of several greenhouses on the farm at the Inn at Bay Fortune

I learn that the soil on the farm is like a chocolate layer cake – aerated and full of goodness, spongy, dark, delicious – and a wellspring of nutrition for the plants.

We tour an experimental area called the nursery to view dozens of varieties of tomatoes, some of which are almost black The purpose of the nursery is to discover which tomato varieties work best in the climate and the terroir.

Ah, the terroir – the earth from which the plants spring. Terroir garners tremendous respect, veneration even. The terroir creates the food we put into our bodies to nourish ourselves.

Oyster Hour at the FireWorks Feast

We walk from the farm back toward the Inn to find a tall man with grizzled grey hair tied in a tight ponytail. It’s Chef Michael himself standing with shovel in hand in front of a large, smoky fire on which oysters will soon be roasting.

Chef Michael Smith greets guests in front of roasting oysters at the Inn at Bay Fortune for the FireWorks Feast — Chef Michael Smith greets guests in front of roasting oysters at the Inn at Bay Fortune

An engaging speaker, Chef Michael exudes an infectious enthusiasm and passion for food, for sustainability, and for terroir. He tells us that the oysters we’re about to slurp were harvested in Bay Fortune that very afternoon. No more than a few hours separate their plucking from the sea to Chef Michael’s shucking knife.

We’ve reached the Oyster Hour portion of the evening that is devoted to sampling a variety of appetizers, including as many oysters as we can slurp. First up are oysters dotted with butter and nestled into the coals of the open fire. I select one and suck it back—tasting the sea, of course, but also a warm, smoky, buttery flavor.

Oysters quickly roasted over an open fire are ready for savoring

Raw oysters are offered next, shucked right in front of us by Chef Michael and then dotted with dollops of fresh-chopped tomatoes from the farm. My daughter Julia is not a seafood lover (where did I go wrong?), but she gamely agrees to try her first raw oyster. Chef Michael instructs her—slurp, chew, swallow.

Julia holds the oyster to her lips, closes her eyes and tilts her head back.

And then, in full view of Chef Michael Smith, she spits the oyster back into the shell. Oops! But he is good-humored about it and commends her for at least trying.

Julia has better luck with some of the other appetizers. She enjoys slices of smoked salmon, delicate pink and so fresh as to be practically swimming, served atop a crisp, salty cracker, along lobster mushrooms on a taco with Sriracha – heat exploding across chewy smoothness.

Young woman eating a salmon appetizer — Julia has better luck with the salmon appetizer

Pre-Feast Toast

After an hour of sampling appetizers, we gather in front of the flagpole on the lawn overlooking Bay Fortune. Chef Michael directs our attention to the large Canadian flag snapping in the wind at half-mast. He alludes to why, but doesn’t explain, evidently trusting that the gathered company already knows. I wonder if they do and hope so. For readers who may not know, most Canadians have flown the flag at half-mast throughout the summer of 2021 in memory of the thousands of indigenous children across Canada who never returned from residential schools.

Chef Michael then proposes a toast with a sparkling, bubbling Prince Edward Island “champagne” (Benjamin Bridge Bubbles). The assembled guests (about 75 people) raise their glasses and then troop gratefully into the airy dining room to enjoy six more courses of the FireWorks Feast. Julia had thought we’d eat to the accompaniment of real fireworks, but no. FireWorks refers, literally, to fire and works, meaning that most of the food we consume has been cooked over fires fed with local wood.

The FireWorks Feast Begins

We are seated at the window – a perfect spot from which we survey the wide expanse of lawn leading to the sparkling waters of Bay Fortune. As the evening progresses, golden light floods across the grass, turning it into a shimmering expanse of brilliant, molten green. Slowly, the sky turns soft pink, then mauve, then indigo as night descends over peaceful Prince Edward Island. A bonfire flares, its bright orange flames a promise of life in the darkness.

The FireWorks Feast Booklet called Farm, Fires, Feast at the Inn at Bay Fortune — Farm, Fires, & Feast booklet at our place setting

Special FireWorks Feast Bread

First up is the bread tree – a metal “tree” in which nestles a small loaf of warm, fresh-baked sourdough bread described as made from 100-year-old naturally fermented heritage flour and baked in a wood oven. It is brown, dense, and sinfully delicious.

A trio of spreads invites extensive investigation. My favorite is the maple brown butter – sweet and creamy, but also light—frothy even. Pork pâté made from a happy pig (that’s what the server said!) is subtly flavored; again, the texture is silky smooth. Finally, I savor a lighter-than-air cheese pâté, the flavors so delicate as to be almost undistinguished.

Sourdough bread in an iron tree with spreads — Our bread tree with a trio of spreads

Although I’m already almost full from the oysters and other scrumptious appies from the Oyster Hour, I nevertheless chow down on two hunks of fresh bread and far too many slatherings of spreads. I know this is a mistake – the bread is only course two of seven. Seven! Already, I need a rest.

A cool white wine from Nova Scotia provides the perfect accompaniment – not too strong, a blend that truly complements the food rather than overpowers it. There is the option to have four pours of four different wines for $75. I am tempted, but decide that even my indulgence quotient has limits.

Soup Swimming with Seafood

Course three is seafood chowder for me and a chicken broth with veggies for Julia. My chowder overflows with plump and sweet scallops and clams, bright orange mussels, dense clumps of crabmeat and lobster, along with haddock, salt cod, beach wort (whatever that is), dulse (seaweed?) and potatoes, all swimming in a delicate creamy broth. The flavors do not overpower. They blend and dance across the palate, inviting slow savoring.

This is not the place to gobble your food.

Seafood chowder at the FireWorks Feast — Delectable seafood chowder

Both of us eat only half our soups, prompting the lovely young server to ask if we liked it. I hastily reassure her that the chowder is spectacular but that I need to leave room. I’d taken Chef Michael’s exhortation to eat as many oysters as we wanted far too seriously and, not wanting to let down the side for western Canada, had eaten three or four too many.

The Best Salad in the World at the FireWorks Feast

The next course is my favorite – all vegetables, and OMG what vegetables! I watch Chef Michael at the open-plan chef station dump fresh greens plucked mere hours earlier from the farm into a massive bowl. Surrounded by an impressive number of earnest-looking and mostly young chefs-in-training, Chef Michael tosses the greens with his hands. The hefty price tag for this foodie experience is feeling increasingly reasonable considering the value we’re getting.

The chefs portion the salad of herbs, shoots, stalks, stems, leaves, buds, fruits, and a plethora of brilliantly colored edible flowers into a bowl for every two people. We also receive an individual plate smeared with root vegetable purées – ash-baked beets, smoked parsnips, and roasted carrots, along with lentil sprouts and something called seedy soil that turns out to be a pleasantly crunchy, sweet and salty garnish I could have eaten all night.

Plate of vegetable purees at the FireWorks Feast — Trio of vegetable purées with lentil sprouts and seedy soil

We are instructed to place a few tongfuls of the greens (studded with popcorn – seriously!) over the plate of pureed vegetables to experience the different textures and tastes.

The parsnip cream is to die for, and I don’t even like parsnips. Even the beets go down a treat – the rich red color alone worth the price of admission. I want to eat every scrap of the greens, but my tummy is starting to groan. How am I going to manage the main course?

But back to the greens – crisp, tart, sweet, earthy, fresh – I feel like I’m eating a garden, which I suppose I am. My favorites are the flowers – startling orange nasturtiums and soft violet pansies that are peppery and sweet and crunchy. I’ve only just discovered the glories of eating flowers and am now a firm convert. Every so often, a leaf from one of the farm’s 26 herb beds—mint, basil, and many more tastes I don’t recognize—glides across my palate like an Olympic speed skater.

Green salad studded with colorful flowers and popcorn at the FireWorks Feast

I reluctantly leave a fair amount of greens in the salad bowl, having practically licked the plate clean of its purée smears, and await the main course. Chef Michael and his crew are hard at work plating the two choices—brisket or halibut. I made the difficult choice when we arrived earlier but was torn. I adore halibut and almost never get it, but brisket! And I figure brisket smoked and prepared by a world-class chef had to be, well, world-class.

Chef Michael Smith preparing a main course — Chef Michael plates the main course

Main Course – FireWorks Beautiful Brisket

The main course arrives, the slabs of brisket and flatiron steak artfully (well, duh) arranged over an intriguing assortment of roasted root vegetables. But alas, my stomach rebels. I can manage only a few nibbles of wonderfully flavored kale and some brisket before having to give up. Would it be completely low-brow to ask for a doggy bag in a place like this? I envision enjoying a slab of the brisket (melt-in-your-mouth, for sure) later that evening. It would taste sooooo good then, whereas now – nope. I am far too full to appreciate it.

Restaurant meal of brisket — The main course is brisket with root vegetables

But as my dad used to say, they’ll not see you again, so I asked our server if I could have the brisket to go and she cheerfully offers to bring me a box. Phew! Later that evening and again for breakfast, I feast on the most tender, flaky, flavorful brisket I’ve ever tasted. Just enough of the salty au jus clings to the meat to give it flavor without overwhelming it.

Always Room for Dessert

Can we manage dessert? Well, of course. Dessert is a different stomach, right? Also, the gap between main course and dessert is, to my relief, long enough to give my system time to re-calibrate.

Dessert is a haskap berry tarragon meringue/sponge cake topped with blueberry cream and a scoop of lemon verbena ice cream. I eat every morsel.

Artfully arranged desserts — Dessert at the FireWorks Feast

And still we are not done! Over at the chef station, one of the young chefs is affixing rectangles of blueberry marshmallow to the ends of long sticks. Outside the window, the crackling flames of the campfire beckon. We pick up our marshmallow sticks and proceed to the campfire. Melty, blueberry, sticky. Oh yeah!

But unfortunately, swarms of unwelcome guests also show up to enjoy campfire time. We learn the hard way that the mosquitoes on Prince Edward Island are tiny but vicious. Funny – I never remember reading about mosquitoes feasting on Anne of Green Gables.

The Morning After

Before checking out the next morning, I take a copy of my novel Love Among the Recipes to Reception and ask that it be given to Chef Michael as a thank-you for a wondrous experience. The woman at the desk tells me I can give it to him myself since he’s just around the corner in the dining room working on the evening menu.

Feeling a trifle presumptuous, I nevertheless present Chef Michael with my novel. He graciously accepts, telling me he thinks it looks like something he and his wife would enjoy. I’m honored, and float away from the Inn feeling that our Prince Edward Island splurge is one for the memory books.

Novel called "Love Among the Recipes" by Carol M. Cram — Love Among the Recipes finds a new home at The Inn at Bay Fortune

If you’re traveling to Prince Edward Island during the summer months, consider spending the night at the Inn at Bay Fortune and an evening enjoying the FireWorks Feast. You’ll come away with a renewed appreciation for fresh and nutritious food grown with love.

Iceland’s Blue Lagoon: Should You Go?

March 19, 2020July 14, 2020Activities, Destinations, Iceland carolcram Leave a Comment

Last updated on July 14th, 2020 at 07:00 pm

At the Blue Lagoon, you’ll experience one of Iceland’s top places for enjoying the miraculous thermal waters that heat most of the country and make many of its surfaces bubble and gush.

Should you include a visit to the Blue Lagoon in your Iceland itinerary? It’s an expensive, slickly produced experience as far removed from jumping into a natural hot spring in the Icelandic hinterland as you can get.

But should you go? Definitely!

I visited the Blue Lagoon on my first morning in Iceland on a February trip with my daughter, Julia. Here are my impressions and my tips for making the most of the €73 experience. That’s the cheapest rate, by the way. You can spend more (and we did!).

Blue lagoon in Iceland — Blue lagoon geothermal spa in Iceland

Entrance to the Blue Lagoon is strictly regulated so it will never be bobbing room only. But if possible, go in the early morning when the crowds are sparsest. Enveloped in steam and warmth, you’ll feel like you’re the only person on Earth.

Purchasing Tickets

You must purchase tickets for the Blue Lagoon well in advance of your trip to Iceland. If you’re going in the busy summer months, purchase tickets several months ahead.

Although we were visiting in February, we found availability was already limited when we booked in November. And if you want to include a massage, don’t wait! We managed to snag two of the last spots.

At the same time as you purchase your tickets to the Blue Lagoon, purchase bus tickets from the airport to the Blue Lagoon and from the Blue Lagoon to Reykjavik (or the other way around).

Blue Lagoon Strategy

A good strategy is to visit the Blue Lagoon just after you land in Iceland or, if your flight time allows, on the morning you depart. The Blue Lagoon is situated in a lava field near Grindavík on the Reykjanes Peninsula, about 20 minutes from Keflavík International Airport and 50 minutes from Reykjavík.

Buy Blue Lagoon and bus tickets directly from the Blue Lagoon website if you’re traveling independently. Another idea is to combine your visit to the Blue Lagoon with a tour that includes transportation and other sightseeing. Here are some options:

Following is my summary of a Blue Lagoon Experience in February.

Arriving in Iceland

We touch down at Keflavik International Airport at 6 am after an eight-hour overnight flight on Icelandair from Vancouver. We are not alone! Many flights from North America arrive early, so the stylishly designed airport is hopping.

Our first stop is the small convenience store outside Baggage Claim where we buy SIM cards and a snack.

TIP: A pre-paid Icelandic SIM card with about 5 GB of data for an unlocked GSM phone costs €15 to €20. We each bought SIM cards and had plenty of data for our ten days in Iceland. The cell coverage in Iceland is phenomenal. Even when perched atop a glacier, I was able to check email and scroll through Instagram. Apparently, cell coverage is so good in Iceland to facilitate emergency broadcasts about volcanic eruptions. Iceland is basically sitting atop a boiling cauldron of molten lava.

We wait about thirty minutes inside the warm terminal for our pre-paid bus ride to the Blue Lagoon. Ten minutes before it’s due to arrive, we venture out into an Icelandic morning in February.

Cold? Yes, very. But it’s definitely refreshing after eight hours on a plane.

Boarding the Bus for the Blue Lagoon

The bus arrives, and it’s a scramble as everyone surges forward to stow their luggage. We circle around to the other side and find room for our two suitcases and then present ourselves and our tickets to the driver. Ahead of us is a group of six people who don’t have the right tickets. The driver is unmoved by their pleas. Finally, they step aside, and we board. It’s 7:30 am and pitch dark.

The bus lumbers out to the road flanked on either side by desolate fields studded with rocks. We can’t see much and so both of us soon nod off. About twenty minutes later, we awaken to a slightly rockier landscape and a very faint glimmer of gray piercing the darkness. We’re close to the Blue Lagoon.

The first signs of it are clouds of steam from the massive thermal power plant that is the lagoon’s reason for existence. If you’re expecting a natural hot spring, you’ll be disappointed. The Blue Lagoon is unashamedly man-made, although the hot, mineral-laden water is natural. The lagoon evolved from the warm blue reservoir that formed following the construction of the nearby Svartsengi geothermal power plant.

Arriving at the Blue Lagoon

The bus stops and we join the large queue outside a small building containing lockers for our luggage. I’m surprised at how long we have to wait at only 8 am. But finally, we struggle through a narrow corridor to the lockers, hand over our suitcases, get our tags, and follow signs to the entrance to the Blue Lagoon complex.

TIP: Make sure you pack your bathing suit, flip flops, and any toiletries you need in your carry-on bag so you have them handy when you arrive at the Blue Lagoon. You don’t want to be digging through your suitcase while waiting in the very crowded line-up.

It’s still very dark and also very cold. This is our first taste of Iceland weather, and we’re very glad of our warm coats, snow boats, hats, and gloves. But we’ve come to Iceland in February. What did we expect?

Entering the Blue Lagoon Complex

Inside the reception building that contains the changing rooms and a cafeteria, we are efficiently processed – our reservation checked and our locker assigned. It’s incredibly well organized. The Blue Lagoon welcomes up to 4000 visitors per day year-round.

Entrance to the Blue Lagoon — The crowds haven’t yet arrived at the Blue Lagoon reception area

I’m struck by the cheerfulness of the attendant checking us in. She sees thousands of guests a day and yet she knows how exciting the experience is for first-timers and smiles at our enthusiasm.

She gives each of us a towel, a white robe and an electronically coded wristband. We must wear the wristbands at all times to get access to our lockers and to receive our free drink and face mud out in the lagoon. The wristbands are also encoded with the time of our scheduled massages.

We’ve paid several hundred dollars for our Blue Lagoon experience that includes transportation and in-water massages, so no wonder we’re excited. I’m determined to enjoy every second!

Enjoying the Blue Lagoon

Preparing for the Blue Lagoon

Into the immaculately clean changeroom we go, where we divest ourselves of our heavy clothes and stuff them into the lockers which are not large. I’ve read that you’re expected to shower naked but everyone else is wearing a bathing suit as they enter the showers and so I do too. I don’t want to scare people this early in the morning.

Graphic signs remind us to shower thoroughly and with soap. In Iceland, cleanliness at thermal pools is taken very seriously. You are expected to wash your hair and all parts of you. Shampoo and liquid soap are supplied.

Finally, showered and robed, we make our way to a glass-enclosed anteroom, hang up our robes on numbered hooks that we’ll hopefully remember, then get ready to exit to the great outdoors.

Dipping Into the Blue Lagoon

Ahead of us, we hear the squeals of guests as they expose flesh still dripping from their cleansing showers to the freezing air. I experience a moment of doubt. Who walks outside at 8:30 am in the pitch dark (yes, it’s still dark) in Iceland in February wearing only a wet bathing suit?

Apparently, we do.

Our bare feet encounter real, honest-to-goodness ice. I’m walking over ice in Iceland in bare feet! This is really a stupid idea. Is it too late to turn back? Will they refund my money?

We join the squealers and pick up the pace to cover the ice-slick ground from the entranceway into the water—a distance of maybe ten yards. It feels like ten miles. We are so nuts.

A good inch of fresh snow covers the railing at the top of the steps leading into the steam-swathed lagoon. I grip it anyway rather than risk slipping and ignominiously falling face first into the lagoon.

Our toes reach the lapping waters which in the darkness look white under a heavy layer of steam. Ahead, we glimpse a few bobbing heads. I feel like I’m about to descend into the pit of Hell. At any moment, Pluto will swoop down and, mistaking Julia for Persephone, carry her away forever.

The water laps up to our ankles, shins, thighs, and then….

Ahhhhhhhh!

Bobbing Around the Blue Lagoon

We descend up to our necks into the most blissful warmth I’ve ever experienced. The few people we see have their faces covered in thick white, black, or green mud—golems and ghosts and goblins. We slosh slowly across the lagoon to one of the mud stations.

Included in our admission to the Blue Lagoon is a nice big gloopy scoop of silica-laden mud. Reputed to have healing properties and infused with minerals, the mud is to be spread liberally over our faces and left on for about 30 minutes.

Person relaxing in the Blue Lagoon in Iceland — Entrance to the Blue Lagoon includes a mineral-enriched face mask

Dutifully, we hold out our cupped hands to receive a ladleful of goop from an attendant dressed head to toe in cold-weather gear. He or she (can’t tell) spends all day in the freezing cold air, doling goop out to half-naked people immersed in hot water. It’s not a job I would want.

To be honest, the mud stings a bit, but it’s included in the price and I’m darned if I’ll wash it off before it’s nourished my skin with its mineral goodness.

We bob around some more as very slowly the sky lightens and glows pale pink in the east. Dawn is breaking over southwest Iceland at 9:00 am.

Exploring the Blue Lagoon

The Blue Lagoon is massive and includes large outcroppings of lava, arched bridges to bob under, snow- covered hills emerging above the steam, and several steam caves.

Getting Your Free Drink

After exploring most of the attractively laid out complex of pools, we head over to the drinks bar. Included in the price of admission is a drink we can order from a surprising menu of choices that include alcohol. I don’t fancy beer or wine this early in the morning and so opt for a green health drink.

Later, my choice would turn out to be a mistake, but the combination of spinach, ginger, and banana goes down easy. Julia gets a strawberry smoothie that’s almost as thick as the mud on her face.

Our massages are scheduled for 10:30, still about 45 minutes away. We don’t like to admit it, but the truth is that the bobbing about is starting to get a bit old. We booked the 1:30 bus to Reykjavik. I’m hoping we can change the time because spending another three hours splashing about the lagoon is beginning to lack appeal.

We return to the main building, retrieve our robes and towels and go upstairs to sit in one of the lounge chairs overlooking the lagoon. The crowds are thickening, and as the sky lightens, the lagoon is starting to look more like a regular swimming pool than the ethereal mist-shrouded wonderland it was when we first submerged. We settle into the loungers and nap for about half an hour, warmed to the bone and rubbery with relaxation.

View over the Blue Lagoon at sunrise — View over the Blue Lagoon in the morning

Whatever is in the Blue Lagoon is good stuff.

By the time we go back downstairs to divest ourselves of our robes and return to the pool, every hook is taken. I’m not sure if the lagoon is at capacity, but it feels like it might be. We’re very glad we booked three months ahead.

Experiencing an In-Water Massage in the Blue Lagoon

Back out in the lagoon we bob across to the cordoned-off area. An attendant sitting in a booth tells us to wait by the entrance to the private area for our masseuse to call our names. We are excited again. We’re having massages, in the water, in Iceland!

Woo hoo!

A young woman wearing a wetsuit and with her hair under a cap comes over and cheerfully welcomes me. She asks where I’m from and tells me she’s spent time in Canada. She helps me onto a yoga mat. I stretch out on my back and she covers with me with a heavy sodden blanket, then pushes me across the water into the massage area.

For the next thirty minutes, she moves well-oiled hands between my back and the mat, kneading plane-stiffened muscles up my spine and to my neck and then along each arm.

I want to relax. I really want to relax and enjoy this new form of ecstasy. But for some reason, I can’t unclench my jaw. My masseur, in her lovely Icelandic accent, encourages me to relax. I try, but I feel exposed staring up into the grey void, still lightening with the coming day.

I close my eyes, but then I worry I’ll roll off the mat and drown. Every so often, the masseur shakes the mat to swoosh water up my back, warming me but not, unfortunately, relaxing me.

At the end of 30 minutes, she casts me adrift into an adjacent holding pond with other floating lumps. I meet up with Julia who has managed to accomplish bliss, and we float for a while before finally deciding that we’ve had enough.

Ending Our Blue Lagoon Experience

Back out in the main area, we agree that even though we’re supposed to stay another two hours, we’re done. It’s time to get dry and catch the first bus to Reykjavik.

We head for the changeroom. The combination of heat, the heavy mineral-sulfur smell of the lagoon waters, and the rich, green drink hit my system in an unpleasant way. I suddenly don’t feel at all well. I shall spare you the details.

Fortunately, after a drink of water and a half hour of sitting in the cafeteria, I’m well enough to stumble out into the cold to retrieve our luggage and wait for the bus.

Blue Lagoon Recommendations

Our Blue Lagoon experience—anticipated for months—is over. Do I recommend it?

Absolutely!

I will say, however, that you’re likely to want to spend less time than you think. Your entrance allows you to stay for as long as you want, but I’d allocate about two to three hours.

The price is steep for a few hours of watery bliss, but the Blue Lagoon is special. Even though you’ll likely visit a few more thermal pools while in Iceland, I recommend also enjoying the over-priced Blue Lagoon. It’s a marvel of efficiency and really like nothing else I’ve ever experienced.

Massage?

Should you shell out for the in-water massage? To be honest, I don’t think so. Julia enjoyed herself, but I can’t say I did. It wasn’t awful—the masseuse did her best. But for some reason, floating on a mat under a sodden blanket made me more anxious than relaxed.

You’ll pay about €120 for a thirty-minute massage.

Comfort vs. Premium

On the website, you’ll see two prices—Comfort and Premium. We chose Comfort at a cost of about €80 which includes use of a towel and robe, one dollop of goop, and a drink. So far as I can tell, the Premium package at €100 doesn’t offer that much more.

Note that prices vary somewhat depending on exchange rates between Icelandic Kröna (ISK) and Euros.

Evening Visit

If you visit the Blue Lagoon after 7 pm (it closes at 10 pm), you pay about €48 for Comfort and €68 for Premium. If you’re lucky and visiting in the winter, you may see northern lights while you bask in the warm waters.

Hotel and Restaurant

The Blue Lagoon complex includes a hotel and a gourmet restaurant. While both are reputed to be excellent, I wouldn’t want to spend a night at the Blue Lagoon. Apart from splashing around the pools and eating, there’s not much else to do. The area surrounding the Blue Lagoon is pretty much a barren wasteland. After your two or three hours, take the bus into Reykjavik where you’ll find lots of good hotels and restaurants, great shopping, and plenty of interesting sights.

Other Thermal Pools in Iceland

The Blue Lagoon is not the only place in Iceland where you can dunk in a thermally heated pool. You’ll find public swimming complexes, many including multiple pools, steam rooms, and hot tubs, in most communities throughout Iceland.

You’ll pay a fraction of the cost of the Blue Lagoon to warm yourself up, with the added bonus of sharing the experience with locals rather than other tourists.

You won’t find many locals at the expensive Blue Lagoon. The vast majority of your swim mates will be tourists just like you.

If you travel to the north, you won’t want to miss the Mývatn Nature Baths—another awesome experience. But it’s very different from the Blue Lagoon.

Entrance to the Myvatn Nature Baths in northern Iceland — Entry to the Myvatn nature baths in northern Iceland

My advice? Go to both and throw in a visit to a public swimming pool. You’re in Iceland!

For more about Iceland, check out Travel in Iceland: Top Tips for an Awesome Trip and

Have you Visited the Blue Lagoon?

Let other Artsy Travelers know your experience at the Blue Lagoon. Do you think it’s worth the time and money? Leave your comments below.

My Rome Colosseum History

Should You Visit Rome and Not Go to the Colosseum?

Signing Up for a Tour: Smart Idea or ?

Finding the Tour

Waiting to Enter the Colosseum

Buying a Ticket to the Colosseum

My Turn Getting Tickets for the Colosseum

Starting the Tour of the Colosseum–Almost

Security Line at the Colosseum

Entering the Colosseum

Climbing to the Top of the Colosseum

Is A Guided Tour Worth the Wait?

Touring the Colosseum On Your Own

When To Visit the Colosseum

Tours of the Colosseum

Other Sites in Rome

My Favorite Activity in Rome

Conclusion

Posts About Rome

Choosing a Class in Rome

EnjoyCooking.com with Crown Tours

Arrival at EnjoyCooking.com

Chef Marco!

Gelato Making

Suppli Making

Pizza Making

Mixing the Pizza Dough

Baking the Pizza

Topping the Pizza

Finishing the Pizzas

EnjoyCooking.com Class

Cooking Classes in Rome with Get Your Guide

Conclusion

Other Posts about Cooking

Overview of Proyecto Asis

Booking a Day at Proyecto Asis

Getting to Proyecto Asis

Touring the Sloth Sanctuary

Seeing Sloths

Learning About Sloths

Hearing from the Guide

Lunch at a Soda

Wildlife Refuge Tour

Learning About Rescue Animals

Monkeys at Proyecto Asis

How Monkeys Become Pets

A Green Boa

Tropical Birds at Proyecto Asis

Macaws

A Hybrid Macaw

Volunteering at Proyecto Asis

Conclusion

Interview with Tanvi Pathare

Who is Tanvi Pathare?

Tanvi’s Inspiration

Tanvi’s Favorite Flowers

Influences of Location

Villa Lena Workshop

Tanvi Pathare’s Artwork

Landscapes by Tanvi Pathare

Still Lifes by Tanvi Pathare

About the Flower Painting Workshop at Villa Lena

Visit Villa Lena

Staying at the Villa Lena

Villa Lena Foundation

Conclusion

Get Your Bearings

#1: Get the Copenhagen Card

#2: Take a Bike Tour

Meeting the Copenhagen Bike Tour

King’s Garden

Nyboder

Gefion Fountain

Royal Palace & Opera House

Nyhavn

#3: Check out BOTH Mermaids

#4: Take Pictures in Nyhavn

#5: Eat Smørbrød

#6: Tour the Design Museum

#7: Visit the Danish National Museum