I’m a huge fan of taking cooking classes when I travel around interesting locales that have unique cuisines. So far, I’ve taken a market class and a French sauces class (sweet and savory) in Paris, a tapas class in Madrid, and a pasta & tiramasu class in Rome (see my post about that awesome class here).
Choosing a Class in Rome
With two weeks to spend in Rome in 2024 (with a few days off to visit Naples and Paestum), I decided to take yet another cooking class. Most of classes available were variations on the pasta/tiramasu class I’d already taken, but after a bit of searching on Get Your Guide, I discovered a pizza and gelato-making class.
Perfect! I signed up on Tuesday for the class on Friday.
EnjoyCooking.com with Crown Tours
In 2022, I’d taken the pasta/tiramisu class with InRome Cooking, which I highly recommend. But this time, I decided to go with EnjoyCooking.com for the sake of variety and having a new company to write about on Artsy Traveler. EnjoyCooking.com partners with Crown Tours to offer cooking classes in a lovely, brick-arched space next door to their tour office and across the street from the Colosseum.
The day before the class, I got a WhatsApp call from the company. The family that had signed up to take the class at the same time as me had canceled, leaving me on my own. Did I want to postpone the class to the evening slot? I could not because in the evening, we had the opening of Gregg’s art exhibition at Il Leone Galleria in Rome. I was assured that they were happy to still offer the class at the 10 am time slot even if I was on my own. Lucky me!
Arrival at EnjoyCooking.com
I arrived on Friday morning and was ushered into the cooking space. There was room for eight people in a class so it was much more intimate than the class I took at InRome Cooking in 2022 which hosted I think twelve people. To my delight, there was one other woman in the class. Over the course of the next three hours, we bonded and had an awesome time.
Chef Marco!
But the biggest surprise was meeting the chef. In walked Marco–the same chef who had taught the pasta/tiramisu class at InRome Cooking. I couldn’t believe it! I told him I’d taken his class and showed him the blog post. He was so excited!
Back again with Chef Marco, this time at EnjoyCooking.com
So that was a great way to kick off the morning. Over the next three hours, Chef Marco led my new friend and me in a lively, hands on and informative class. I’m always amazed at how much I learn about cooking technique in these classes.
Gelato Making
We started with gelato. I discovered to my relief that the ice cream maker I’d purchased several years earlier could be dragged out, dusted off, and used to make gelato. Who knew?
We heated several pints of fresh milk in a pot over an electric hot plate. Marco informed us that the milk should be as fresh as possible–so fresh that it would spoil after three days. Of course, getting milk that fresh is pretty much impossible in North America unless you live on a farm, which I don’t. But the next best thing is high quality organic milk.
We heated the milk and whisked in sugar followed by ten egg yolks and grated lemon zest to make limone gelato. The lemons had come from the Amalfi coast and smelled divine.
After mixing the gelato, we poured it into the commercial gelato maker that would produce perfect gelato within thirty minutes. What an impressive looking machine!
Marco informed us that we would also make raspberry sorbetto to go along with the limone gelato. Sorbetto is even faster and easier to make than gelato. We mixed water with raspberries and once the gelato was made, we poured it into the gelato-maker (after the limone gelato was done, of course).
Here’s a video of the raspberry gelato being extruded from the gelato maker–an exceedingly beautiful and satisfying sight.
Suppli Making
I had never heard of suppli–a Roman street food that is widely available all over the city. Marco showed us how to take rice cooked in tomatoes and form it around fresh cubes of mozzarella cheese, then bread and deep fry it. The result was a log-shaped rectangle that when still hot and pulled apart stretched the warm mozzarella cheese. It was yummy but a bit rich for me at only 11 am!
But when in Rome!
Pizza Making
The main event of the cooking class was making pizza the proper way–aka like they make piazza in Napoli where Marco was from.
I learned that the pizza dough should be rested for two hours after mixing and then rested in the refrigerator for up to three days. That was something new to me. I’d always let my piazza dough rise for about an hour, if that, and then cooked it. Apparently, doing so results in dough that is still fermenting when it enters your tummy. Not good!
Mixing the Pizza Dough
We mixed the dough and kneaded it for about six minutes–a very satisfying process. The dough was light and very elastic. It was then put away to rest and presumably used for a class the next day. Marco then produced dough that had already been rested and risen for a day, and we proceeded to learn how to shape the dough into a pizza. Handling the soft, pliant dough was such a pleasure. We didn’t learn how to throw it in the air, but we did learn a few tricks I can apply back home.
Baking the Pizza
Another tip I learned was to slather on the tomato sauce first, bake the pizza for about six minutes in a home oven (much less in a high temperature commercial oven) and then add the toppings and cook for another three to four minutes. Who knew? I also learned that certain toppings such as prosciutto should not be cooked, but added after the pizza came out of the oven.
For best results, I was told that I should get myself a pizza stone so that’s going on my Christmas list for next year!
Topping the Pizza
After baking the pizza with the sauce, we were offered a wide array of toppings to dress our pizza. My companion chose mozzarella cheese and fresh sausage. I chose anchovies, mushrooms, olives, and of course mozzarella cheese. Here we are making our pizzas in front of the scrumptious assortment of toppings.
Finishing the Pizzas
The pizzas went back in the oven and voila! Within minutes they were being served to us. The first bites were wonderful–the crust slightly charred and very puffed up (the sign of a good pizza) and the toppings fresh. I managed to get through three pieces before having to give up. Marco thoughtfully put the remainder in a pizza box for me to carry home to Gregg.
After pizza, we were served the gelato we’d made earlier. OMG! The limone gelato, in particular, was truly to die for. I don’t think I’ve ever tasted a fresher and more delightful-tasking gelato. It puts the run-of-the-mill gelatos found in gelato stores to shame. As Marco said, it’s all about using the freshest ingredients.
The class ended with me receiving my certificate and posing for a picture with Marco. I was thoroughly satisfied with my second Rome cooking experience in EnjoyCooking.com and Crown Tours.
A smile was on my face as I threaded my way through the crowds of tourists streaming past the Colosseum and Forum on my way back to our comfy little apartment in the Jewish Ghetto.
Thank you, EnjoyCooking.com and Marco for an excellent experience.
EnjoyCooking.com Class
Here’s a link to the cooking class I took through Crown Tours. As I’ve mentioned often on Artsy Traveler, I’m a very big fan of Get Your Guide. I booked my class with Crown Tours through Get Your Guide. If you click on the link below (or the links in the next section) and take any tour (not just the ones listed), I get a small commission. Thank you.
What is it about Siena that makes an artsy traveler swoon? Mention Siena to anyone who has traveled there and immediately they’ll clasp their hands to their hearts and look heavenward while intoning their undying love for this gem of a medieval city.
Every time I visit Siena (and I’ve been five times), I am inundated with a profound sense of living history. Of course, I could say that about many other places in Europe, but there’s something about Siena that makes it extra special.
Why is Siena so Special?
One reason why Siena is so special is that the modern world intrudes so discreetly that it’s easy to believe, especially at night, that you’ve been transported seven hundred years into the past. The stone and brick walls of ancient buildings soar into the deep blue sky either side of stone-paved streets. Everywhere you look are bricked archways, scarred and ancient wooden doors, iron rings for tethering horses, and shadowed alleyways. Everywhere the ancient past lives and breathes.
Walking Into the Campo
When I walk into the Campo—surely, the most beautiful public space in the world—I feel my throat constrict with emotion. I am in Siena! I am walking where my Sofia (from The Towers of Tuscany) walked, where my Lena grew rich and regretful (The Merchant of Siena – to be published) and where hundreds of years of Sienese people have lived and died, fought, prayed, loved, and hated.
On these bricks in the Campo, laid down even before the Black Death, people in heavy gowns walked and talked. They argued and haggled in business, they gazed at each other with love, they snubbed an enemy and clasped hands with a friend. This space—this Campo—has teemed with life for centuries, its shape and beauty unchanged through wars and famines and plagues and the chain stores of the 21st century.
Views Over the Campo
The view across the Campo to the Torre Mangia and Palazzo Pubblico from the cafés lining the high side of the Campo has not changed appreciably since the buildings were new.
Lorenzetti strode across these bricks on his way to paint the Allegory of Good and Bad Government in the Palazzo Pubblico. From one of the windows in a palazzo above where I sit sipping my Aperol Spritz, my Lena watched her lover Paolo enter the Campo with an army of mercenaries. My Sofia first entered the Campo with Francesco from the street to the left of the Torre Mangia and was instantly captivated.
Siena & Visitors
Siena is still a pulsing living city with more locals than tourists, although there are certainly plenty of tourists. But the crowds are manageable and easy to sidestep. One minute, I’m on a street streaming with people, occasionally standing aside to let a car go past. The next minute, I turn into a small side street and am alone with the ghosts and my imagination.
At night, Siena belongs to the locals, particularly young people. The Campo is filled with groups of teens–boys in one tight knot, girls in another. In the side streets, students spill out from the bars, glasses of wine in hand and voices at full volume. In the wee hours, a cadre of loud young men pass under our window, singing with drunken abandon. It’s more endearing than annoying.
Reliving my Novels in Siena
Everywhere I walk in Siena, I think about scenes in the two novels I’ve set there. Is this the street Lena ran down before being captured by mercenaries in The Merchant of Siena? In this piazza, did Sofia in The Towers of Tuscany watch a girl be whipped for dressing like a boy? I’ve spent so many months, years even, seeing these streets in my mind as I write that to walk in them now feels like I’m coming home.
Arriving in Siena
I booked a room at the I Merli di Ada which is inside the walls of Siena. Usually, we avoid places inside medieval towns because we know from experience that driving through narrow medieval streets mobbed with people is a recipe for disaster. But we wanted to be close to the action in Siena and so decided to take the risk.
The hotel sent instructions about parking. We were to enter Siena from the Porta Romana, drive to a little piazza near the hotel, drop off our luggage, then hand our keys to a valet parking attendant. The cost of valet parking is an exorbitant 30 euros per day, but I don’t care. The benefits of staying within Siena’s walls and having someone else park the car far outweigh the cost.
Driving Into Siena
With trepidation, we follow the GPS directions to drive through the Porta Romana past a phalanx of official-looking people in uniform who don’t stop us. I know we’re being electronically monitored. If we stay too long in Siena, we’ll be subject to a hefty fine. Tourists are allowed a small amount of time to drive to their accommodation and drop off their bags. They then must skedaddle, fast (or in our case, give the keys to a valet who does the skedaddling for us).
The GPS directs us along a street with pedestrians who stand aside to let us pass. Gregg drives very, very slowly. We turn left as directed up a side street and then sharp left again. The hotel’s directions tell us there will be a little piazza to our right where we can stop to unload our luggage. Lo and behold, there it is! We pull in and breathe a sigh of relief. I hop out and walk a few paces down the street to find our hotel.
Entrance to I Merli de Ada on a side street in Siena
Phew! That was one of the easier entries into a medieval town we’ve experienced. With great gratitude, Gregg hands the keys to the valet who appears moments later to smilingly move our car to God knows where and I don’t care! We’re informed that we’ll see the car again on Sunday. Spoiler alert – we do.
I Merli di Ada
The I Merli di Ada hotel is lovely. The entrance way is brick-arched and reeking with history. The tiny elevator that climbs very slowly from the lobby to the third floor is the only modern intrusion. We put our luggage into the elevator and climb the winding marble staircase. How many feet have climbed here? I don’t know how old the current building is, but I can say with certainty that its foundations are probably medieval, if not older.
Lobby of the I Merli di Ada in Siena
Our room on the third floor is high-ceilinged, the white-painted beams reminding us of former times. I can’t help wondering how many people have lived and breathed in this space over the centuries. The window looks out over the street and the building opposite—the same red brick as our building with arched windows, most shuttered.
First Walks into Siena
We walk out into Siena with an agenda—find a laundromat, eat a late lunch, buy Gregg some art materials, and, most importantly, drink in our first encounter in six years with my favorite city in Europe.
Thanks to Google, I find a laundromat just down the street, so we head there first. The directions are thoughtfully posted in both Italian and English. Within minutes, we’ve loaded our laundry into one of the machines, inserted eight euros, and pressed the start button. We leave to find lunch.
Lunch in the Campo
Minutes later, we are entering the Campo and my knees go weak. I want to run right out into the middle and twirl. I resist (although later I do a spot of twirling under the cover of darkness–see later in this post). We choose one of the ubertouristy cafés on the edge of the Campo and settle in.
Even Rick Steves, who usually eschews places in ‘high rent’ areas like the Campo, has written in his Siena guidebook that camping at one of the cafés on the Campo is a must-do. Hang the cost.
As it is, the cost is perfectly reasonable, the service efficient and good-humored, and the food really delicious. We split an order of bruschetta along with a large salad replete with anchovies, hard-boiled eggs, very fresh greens, and tomatoes.
The sun beats down pleasantly warm as we gaze out at the Palazzo Pubblico and the Campo. I am truly in heaven.
Errands in Siena
After our late lunch, we hightail it back to the laundromat, put the clothes in the dryer (another five euros), then go in search of art materials. We find them at a little shop on the other side of the Campo. Gregg buys a pad of paper and some paints and looks forward to many happy hours of art creating to come.
We pick up a few groceries so we don’t have to buy the hotel breakfast in the morning, then huff up the three flights of stairs to our room for a bit of quiet time before dinner.
Dinner in Siena
In the evening, we venture out to enjoy an excellent dinner at a well-reviewed osteria not far from the hotel. The service is excellent and the ambiance cozy and warm in a brick-vaulted room that’s probably been in use for centuries.
So far as I can hear, we’re the only English speakers. Most of the other diners are Europeans. We start with fried cheese accompanied by fresh pear sauce recommended by the server and then Gregg has a tasty pasta with bacon and I have thinly sliced Florentine steak. We share a green salad. The food is fresh, simply prepared, and absolutely delicious. With wine, the bill is about 60 euros—perhaps not a bargain, but certainly not over-priced considering the quality of the food, the service, and the ambiance.
Evening Stroll in Siena
After dinner, we stroll to the Campo where I do indeed twirl across the 14th-century pavement and snap endless shots of the floodlit Palazzo Pubblico in front of a deep azure sky. We end the evening with a walk along narrow medieval streets and a final stop at a gelateria for a small cup with two flavors—very dark chocolate with amaretto for me; stracciatella and fragola (strawberry) for Gregg.
A Perfect Full Day in Siena
The next day, I’m up early, excited to begin my only full day in Siena. I start with a caffè Americano at a lovely little café just down the street from our hotel. The place is deserted and I spend a productive hour working on The Merchant of Siena. Set in the second half of the 14th century—a time of great strife and hardship for Siena—the novel tells the story of a woman who is determined to control her own destiny in a world where all the odds are stacked against her.
April Weather
The weather has turned cloudy and chilly. By the time I emerge from the café, the rain has started in earnest, and I wish I’d brought some warmer clothes. I mistakenly thought that Italy in April would be warm. It can be, for sure, but it also can be chilly and wet. There’s a reason why the Tuscan countryside is so green.
I return to the hotel and together, Gregg and I set out to tour the Palazzo Pubblico. I’m anxious to see an exhibition of costumes from the Palio, and of course to revisit my favorite Lorenzetti frescoes.
Palazzo Pubblico
The Palazzo Pubblico is most certainly the most photographed building in all of Siena. I’ve taken dozens of photos myself in as many lights as possible—from brilliant sunshine to moonlit evening. The Palazzo Pubblico with its accompanying tower (the Torre Mangia) was built between 1297 and 1310 and is considered the world’s most perfect example of civic Gothic architecture. The Signoria and the Podestà resided in the Palazzo Publicco and still today, the building is a symbol of political power.
Alas, I discover while buying our tickets that the Lorenzetti frescoes are being renovated. Oh well. I’ve seen them a few times already, and there is still plenty to see between the public rooms and the current exhibition of Palio costumes.
Exhibition of Palio Costumes
We first head downstairs for the costume exhibition that features examples of the medieval-inspired costumes worn by participants in the Palio. I’m a sucker for a good costume exhibit and this one certainly doesn’t disappoint. The only thing lacking are women’s costumes since the focus is on how the riders in the Palio dressed and all of them are for men (or at least I presume so).
Public Rooms in the Palazzo Pubblico
Upstairs in the main part of the Palazzo Pubblico are the stunning reception rooms. With the room containing the Lorenzetti frescoes of Good and Bad Government off limits, the main highlight is the Sala del Mappamondo (the World Map Room), which was once the headquarters of the Council of the Republic.
Martini Fresco
I stand in the middle of the large room and stare at the Maesta by Simone Martini. In The Towers of Tuscany, Sofia stands exactly where I stand to look at the Maesta. Although obviously restored, the 2024 version probably doesn’t hold a candle to the brilliantly colored original that Sofia would have seen.
Fresco of the Maesta by Simone Martini in the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena
I spin around to see Martini’s other famous masterwork–the fresco of Guidoriccio da Fogliano. Mounted on his charger, the captain of the Sienese army rides across the territory he has just conquered (Montemassi, in 1328). Recently, art historians have disputed the attribution of this work to Martini, claiming that it was either a slightly later work or even a 16th-century fake. Part of what sparked the debate was the 1980 discovery of a slightly older scarred fresco lower on the wall. This earlier painting depicts two figures standing in front of a wooden-fenced castle. Some claim this is the fresco Martini painted, while those who support the authenticity of the Guidoriccio attribute this older fresco to Duccio, Pietro Lorenzetti, or Memmo di Filippuccio.
Fresco attributed to Lorenzetti in Siena’s Palazzo Pubblico
Who knows! It’s awesome whoever painted it.
Siena Cathedral
The sun bursts forth after our visit to the Palazzo Pubblico. Gregg heads back to the hotel and I set off to tour Siena Cathedral and the adjoining museums. Here’s where you’ll find the crowds in Siena! The cathedral is mobbed with tour groups, but it’s definitely worth a look-see.
Don’t miss the very cool 15th century paintings in the Piccolomini library. You have to line up to get in, but entrance is included in your ticket to the cathedral.
Interior of the Piccolomini Library in Siena Cathedral
If you visit Siena Cathedral, buy a ticket that includes all of the various components, even if you don’t visit them all. I made the mistake of only buying a ticket for Siena Cathedral and then discovering later that I couldn’t access the Museo Opera where the fabulous Maesta by Duccio is housed (it has a cameo appearance in The Towers of Tuscany). By the time I figured out that I didn’t have the right ticket, I couldn’t summon the energy to trudge all the way back to the side of the cathedral to line up to buy the correct ticket. Fortunately, I’ve seen the Duccio twice before!
I return “home” for an hour’s rest before setting off for the other side of Siena where we find a great place for dinner prior to attending a concert.
Italian Opera in Siena
When we’d arrived at I Merli di Ada, I’d picked up a brochure about opera concerts held three times a week in Siena. The price is reasonable and tickets are available. We decide to check it out. The Italian Opera in Siena concert turns out to be very entertaining. A soprano accompanied by a pianist sings many opera favorites by Puccini, Verdi, and Bizet.
Afterwards, we float out on an operatic high and stroll the thirty minutes back to our hotel through the moonlit streets. Siena at night goes beyond magical to mesmerizing. Most of the time, we are alone, the only sounds our footsteps on the cobblestones and the muted clanking of iron rings in the wind.
Out in the Campo for the last time, I shoot a 360-degree video of one of my favorite places in the world!
Siena will forever hold a special place in my artsy traveler heart!
Where to Stay in Siena
Here are more options in addition to the highly recommended I Merli di Ada:
Tour Options In and Around Siena
On one trip to Siena several years ago, I joined a small group tour of wineries in Montalcino and Montepulciano that also included an amazing lunch. If you’re in Siena for a few days and want to spend one of them touring the wine regions, then check out some of the many tours available. You could also choose a cooking class (I always enjoy a good cooking class!), or guided tours of some of Siena’s sites. As I’ve mentioned many times on Artsy Traveler, I’m a huge fan of Get Your Guide tours. Without exception, every tour I’ve taken has been excellent value. Full disclosure – if you click on any of the tours below and purchase a tour (any tour) from Get Your Guide, I receive a small commission. Thank you.
Have you visited Siena? Share your tips for an awesome experience with other artsy travelers in the comments below. And here are more posts about Italy:
The tiny town of Sirmione on Lake Garda in northern Italy is truly magical. Stay overnight and you’ll have the stone-arched streets and cypress-dotted parks to yourself.
I spent 21 hours there in April and loved every minute of it.
Where is Sirmione?
Located at the south end of Lake Garda, cute-as-a-button Sirmione occupies the very tippy tip of a long peninsula jutting into the lake. Lake Garda is new to us and it certainly lives up to its reputation as one of Italy’s premier lakes. It is also the biggest lake in a country that has a lot of lakes.
Later in our trip, we plan to tour the lakes west of Milan—Como, Maggiore, Lugano—but at this point, Lake Garda’s location en route to Venice makes for a perfect stop.
Arriving in Sirmione
We drove up the peninsula toward the old town of Sirmione and sensibly snagged a parking place alongside the lake which at three o’clock in the afternoon was an unearthly shade of turquoise blue. Even in the tropics, I’ve never seen a color like it. A strong wind was sweeping the lake into a riot of whitecaps that splashed sparkling billows of water against the shore.
We walked to the harbor and crossed the bridge under the shadow of Sirmione’s iconic castle. With its square towers with crenelated tops, the castle resembled exactly the kind of castle a child would draw.
Sirmione Castle guards the entrance to the old town
Visitors packed the streets of the old town. If it was this crowded in April, I’d hate to see what it looked like in the summer. I had read that summer crowds could make Sirmione almost impossible to visit. Fortunately, while large, the crowds were not ridiculous. We easily navigated our way past souvenir shops and gelato places (note to self – return after dinner) to find the Villa Flaminia.
Villa Flaminia
The three-storey Villa Flaminia had old-world elegance and, although gorgeously situated right on the lake, was not unreasonably priced at around 200 euros for the night. A highlight was the terrace that jutted out into the lake. In summer, you could jump right in for a swim. Although the sun was warm in April, no one was swimming so I presumed the water was not yet toasty enough.
Relaxing with a drink on the terrace at the Villa Flaminia on the shores of Lake Garda
After checking into the Villa Flaminia, we returned to our car and moved it to a gated parking lot. From there, we and our luggage rode a golf cart back into the town. Very efficient!
View of Lake Garda from our parking place
Here’s a view of the Villa Flaminia from Lake Garda–snapped the next day while on our Lake Garda boat tour.
Villa Flaminia seen from the boat tour on Lake Garda
Wandering Around Sirmione
After getting settled in our lovely, high-ceilinged room, we went out in search of a quick sandwich to stave off hunger (having not had much lunch). Gregg then returned to the room to recover from the six-hour drive from the French Alps and I did my favorite thing when first arriving in a new place—wandering. I set off through the old town to see what was at the end of the peninsula.
My walk took me past a number of interesting shops. The usual tourist dreck packed a few of them, but several sold really nice-looking items. I stopped to covet a lemon-patterned salad bowl with matching salad tongs. If they could ship it to Canada, I just might buy it. Unfortunately, they didn’t offer shipping to Canada, so I made do buying a ceramic lemon to put on my desk to remind me of Sirmione.
Maria Callas
The shops soon gave way to ever larger villas, including the Termi di Catulla where I found a plaque honoring Maria Callas, the great opera singer. I’d recently finished reading Diva by British author Daisy Goodwin about Callas’s life and had interviewed Daisy for The Art In Fiction Podcast a few weeks later, so I knew that Callas had once lived in Sirmione. Inside the hotel was a small display of some of her costumes and jewelry.
Costume worn by Maria Callas
After admiring the Callas display, I carried on past Maria Callas Park to walk to the Grotto Cattalus. Along the way, I enjoyed stunning views of stately cypresses, snow-dusted mountains, and wind-whipped waves. I was smitten.
Dinner in Sirmione
Dinner that evening was a charming and tasty affair. The wind was sending cutlery and napkins on the outdoor tables flying, so we opted to sit inside. Also, the evening air in April was not warm even though daytime temperatures had been comfortable.
I ordered a shrimp tagliatelle that came with a sauce I’d be happy to marry. Service was efficient and unsmiling. I got the impression that the staff were weary after a long day of serving tourists. Can’t say I blamed them!
I snapped this photo of the setting sun as seen from the piazza just outside the restaurant.
Sunset Over Lake Garda
Evening Walk in Sirmione
After dinner, we scurried back to our hotel to replace my optimistic capris and sandals with long pants, socks, shoes, and a jacket, then ventured out for an evening amble and to enjoy the glorious sunset over Lake Garda. Most of the tourists had disappeared, and we had the streets to ourselves. We walked as far as the Termi di Catullo to admire the Maria Callas plaque, then returned to our warm hotel room for the night.
Maria Callas is one of Sirmione’s most famous former residents
Maria Callas was not the only famous person to maintain a villa in Sirmione. Former residents include writers Ezra Pound, James Joyce, Aldous Huxley, Tennyson and Goethe. Churchill also hung out for a while in Sirmione.
A Morning in Sirmione
The next morning, we decided to enjoy Sirmione right until the noon checkout when the golf cart was scheduled to arrive at the hotel to take us back to our parking place. The day dawned clear and warm—the complete opposite to the cloudy and chilly weather predicted on my phone.
After breakfast, we sauntered out into the still empty streets and strolled all the way up the peninsula en route to visit the Grottoes of Catallus.
Villa of Maria Callus
On our way, we passed the beautiful yellow villa that Maria Callas had lived in with her husband. What a place! Imagine being her neighbor back in the day and hearing her voice soaring out over the pines as she practiced her arias for a performance at La Scala in Milan, a few hours away. Talk about magical!
Villa in which Maria Callas lived
Grottoes of Catallus
The grottoes turned out to be a Roman villa built between the end of the 1st century BCE and the beginning of the 1st century CE. The ruins were rediscovered in the 15th century and at first resembled caves, hence the name “grottoes.” Over the centuries, archaeologists slowly unearthed a remarkable complex that must have been a Roman billionaire’s dream palace.
The grottoes were named after the poet Catallus because his poems had just been rediscovered around the time the grottoes/villa was found. In his 31st poem, Catallus described love of his beloved house in Sirmione. He wrote: Sirmio, jewel of islands, jewel of peninsulas, with what joy, what pleasure I gaze at you“.
Despite his raving about the place, there is no evidence linking Catallus to this particular villa, mostly because he died before it was built.
Statue of the Roman poet Catallus
Anyway, the name stuck, and wow—the site is definitely worth a visit. The villa is situated on a promontory at the very top of the peninsula with stunning views of the lake and mountains On a warm and breezy April day with few other tourists around, the leisurely ramble among olive groves atop the ruins was an artsy traveler’s dream come true.
Overlooking the Roman ruins and the view across Lake Garda
Video of the Panorama
Here’s a video that captures the sublime view above the Roman ruins.
We happily snapped many photos, then descended to the museum. Unfortunately, several school groups had just arrived, and despite the many attempts of shushing by the teachers, filled the small space with their chatter. How wonderful it must be to grow up in a country where school outings took you to a Roman villa! One little girl looked up at us as we passed and cheerfully wished us buon giorno.
We did a quick walk through the museum. It was small but filled with some good-looking frescoes and various finds from the archaeological dig.
Don’t Miss the Shuttle!
After our visit, we opted to catch the little shuttle that ferried visitors from the site back to the Termi di Catullo for a mere €1.20 each.
Shuttle gave weary legs a break in Sirmione
Our next stop—a lake cruise!
Cruise on Lake Garda
I’m a big fan of the Get Your Guide website that in my experience has always delivered excellent tours. I’ve booked through them several times and have yet to be disappointed. Our 25-minute boat tour around Sirmione was no exception.
We walked out to the tiny harbor at the foot of the castle and easily found the blue umbrella at the Lake Garda Tours kiosk. At the time of our visit, two tours were available—at 11 am and 5 pm. I’d booked the earlier tour the night before. We quickly checked in and promptly at 11 am, about 15 of us were taken to a spacious open boat with comfortable seating that ensured spectacular views of the lake and Sirmione.
Enjoying the Cruise
The tour really was delightful. We motored up the west side of the peninsula past the Villa Flaminia and many other gorgeous villas. The guide pointed out Maria Callas’s distinctive yellow villa that we’d seen earlier that morning.
Here’s a video taken from the boat.
We rounded the top of the peninsula and enjoyed the view of the impressive ruins at the Grottoes of Catallus that we’d just toured.
Grottoes of Catallus seen from the Lake Garda boat cruise
On our way down the east side of the peninsula, the skipper stopped the boat and pointed out the bubbles in the water. Apparently, they were the result of hot springs far below, gurgling away at 70 degrees centigrade which is pretty darned hot. One of the reasons that Sirmione has been so popular over the millennia is the thermal hot springs. Imagine all those retired Roman generals coming here to soothe their battle-wearied bones.
At the end of the tour, we all bent very low to cruise beneath a small bridge connecting the old town and castle area to the rest of the peninsula. The whole experience was thoroughly enjoyable on a breezy and bright April day. Highly recommended!
Approaching the castle and the end of the lake cruise
Farewell to Sirmione
After the cruise, we ducked around the crowds to return to the Villa Flaminia where, precisely at noon as booked, the golf cart rounded the corner into the Piazza Flaminia. Moments later, we and our luggage were loaded aboard and off we went to where we’d parked the car.
Our visit to Sirmione had been short but definitely worthwhile. I’d like to return in the summer when swimming in the lake is allegedly fantastic, although the crowds in the old town are even denser. However, even in summer, if you stay overnight you’ll likely have the streets to yourself in the evening and early morning, which more than makes up for having to dodge fellow tourists during the busy midday hours.
Choosing a Place to Stay in Sirmione
Sirmione has plenty of hotels to choose from. You can sleep in the old town like we did (recommended), choose a place along the lake shore that stretches either side of the peninsula, or select one of the many hotels located on the long road that bisects the peninsula to end at the bridge leading to the old town.
Most of hotels in the old town are pretty pricey, with rates at some of the five-star villas stratospheric. Here are some options:
Parking Considerations
If you choose a hotel outside the old town, you’ll either need to walk a long way or drive to the parking lots outside the walls that I should imagine in summer fill up very fast. Even in April, we had to park quite a long way from the entrance to the old town.
I’m so glad we chose a place in the old town. The Villa Flaminia offered parking for an extra 16 euros in a lot outside the old town and as mentioned, threw in transport via golf cart from the car park to the hotel. Before you book, check the parking situation. You definitely don’t want to book a hotel that requires you to drive into the old town. I felt sorry for the people inching their cars through the extremely narrow streets en route to their hotels.
Other Tours Around Sirmione
As mentioned, I’m a big fan of Get Your Guide tours. I’ve consistently found them to be good value for money, and have taken them in Rome, Venice, Paris, Madrid, and now Sirmione. Here are links to more Get Your Guide tours from Sirmione. Full disclosure: If you click on a Get Your Guide link and purchase a tour (any tour), I receive a small commission. Thank you.
Padua in northern Italy, a quick train ride from Venice, can keep the Artsy Traveler well entertained for several days. I recently spent a week there and found lots to do — from staring awestruck at the Giotto frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel, to exploring the fascinating anatomical theater at one of Europe’s oldest universities, to hanging out in the stunning Pratto della Valle, where you may find a massive market in full swing.
In this post, I share how I spent my week in Padua that included day trips to Venice and Vicenza.
Overview
So why was I in Padua for a week, instead of Venice, its more famous neighbor? First, I’ve visited and stayed in Venice several times and felt it was time to explore more of the Veneto. Second, my husband Gregg (who is an artist) had an exhibition in Padua.
We’d heard Padua was worth visiting in its own right and so looked forward to exploring this new-to-us town. We visited in November–a chilly time in northern Italy (take a good, warm coat!).
On the upside, late November is also the time of the Chocolate Festival where dozens of booths groaning with all kinds of chocolate confections lined the piazzas in the center of Padua. Needless to say, we sampled our fair share.
Truffles from the Chocolate Fair in Padua
Give Padua At Least Two Days
In your travel planning, don’t make Padua and Venice an either/or option. Instead, build time in your itinerary to visit both. You can easily see Padua’s main sites and enjoy the laid-back ambiance in a relaxed three-night stay, or keep yourself busy for a week like we did.
If you only have an afternoon to spare for Padua, then squeeze in a flying visit to Padua’s main Artsy Traveler highlight–the Scrovegni Chapel. Just make sure you’ve booked well in advance of your visit (more on that in a minute).
But Padua is worth more than an afternoon. I suggest you slow down, book a place in the historic center of Padua, and stay awhile. Padua yields up its treasures with a measured delight.
Map of Padua
The map below includes all of the sites mentioned in this post in addition to the location of the wonderful apartment we rented, about a 15-minute walk from the center of town.
I’ll start with the heaviest hitter of them all, sightseeing-wise–the Giotto frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel. We visited on Day 7 of our stay in Padua, which made for a stunning finale to our week, and indeed to our nine-week 2023 sojourn in Europe. When we left the next day to fly home from Milan, visions of Giotto’s exquisitely rendered figures still danced in our heads.
Buy Tickets for the Scrovegni Chapel in Advance
As soon as you know the date you plan to be in Padua, buy your tickets for the Scrovegni Chapel, the earlier the better. Don’t wait until the last minute! The chapel was sold out weeks in advance of our November visit. Same-day tickets are not available.
Here’s the link to purchase tickets from the official site.
Once you’ve booked your tickets, just show up at your appointed time and prepare to be blown away.
Starting Your Scrovegni Chapel Visit
Your visit starts with a walk through beautifully landscaped gardens from the visitor center to the chapel. Since everyone who visits the chapel must book in advance, you pretty much have the place to yourself apart from the thirty or so people who will be in your viewing group.
Approaching the Scrovengi Chapel
You arrive outside the hermetically sealed doors that separate you from a specially built anteroom adjacent to the chapel. Make sure you arrive a good ten minutes early. The visits are timed very precisely with no provisions made for latecomers.
At your appointed time–not a second too soon or too late–the automatic doors swish open. You glimpse the party who visited the chapel before you leaving from another door as you file into the anteroom and take a seat. Here you will watch a fascinating video (English subtitles) about Giotto’s world-famous frescoes.
I am a bit of a Giotto fan girl and so I thoroughly enjoyed the description of the fresco cycle. The work is considered one of Giotto’s greatest masterpieces (which is saying something) and is a wonderful example of the artistic revolution that Giotto brought to Western art. Giotto completed the frescoes in just two years, between 1303 and 1305. They cover the entire interior of the Chapel and narrate the History of Salvation.
Entering the Chapel
After the film, you are invited to stand. Seconds later, another automatic door swishes open and finally, you file into the chapel itself. Gasps of wonder fill the air as each individual quietly takes in the awe-inspiring frescoes. Guides are prohibited so the only sounds are whispers and the muted blips of cell phones and cameras (no flashes allowed, of course) making futile attempts to capture the majesty of the space. It’s impossible. Pictures don’t do it justice, but here are a few of mine, to give you an idea of what you’ll see.
This panel shows the first kiss depicted in Western art — Judas kissing Jesus before betraying himMary at the tomb of Jesus – the expressions on the faces are so humanThis panel shows the Scrovegni Chapel
Why Giotto?
The big deal about Giotto is the naturalism of his figures–a major departure from the stiff, 2D figures common at the time. Giotto’s figures look like real people wearing clothes that drape naturally over real bodies.
You get precisely 15 minutes to enjoy the chapel before the automatic doors again swish open and you file out. On your way, you see the next group preparing to enter, and envy them their first glimpse of the chapel interior. All you have now are your pictures and your memories.
Musei Civici Eremitani
After visiting the Chapel, you can visit the Musei Civici Eremitani, which contains the Archaeological Museum of Padua and the Museum of Medieval and Modern Art. Both are worth checking out.
Archaeological Museum of Padua
Padua is one of the oldest cities in Italy, which becomes abundantly clear when you visit the Archaeological Museum. Here, you’ll find a fascinating collection from the pre-Roman era (8th-3rd century BC), decorated vases from the third Atestine period (6th-5th century BC), Paleo-Venetian steles, votive objects, Etruscan, Italic and Paleo-Venetian bronzes, Egyptian art, and an extensive Roman section. If you like ancient artifacts, this museum is definitely worth a visit.
Museum of Medieval and Modern Art
The museum contains around 3000 paintings from the 14th to the 19th centuries, including works by such luminaries as Giorgione, Tiziano Vecellio, Giotto, Tintoretto, Veronese, Canova, Tiepolo, and Bellini, among many others.
Anatomical Theater in the Palazzo Bo at the University of Padua
My cousin, who is a physician, advised me to visit the anatomical theater at the University of Padua, and I’m very glad I did. It’s accessible only via an entertaining guided tour given in English by a Padua University student. In addition to visiting the famous anatomical theater, you’ll view some of the ornately decorated public rooms in the Palazzo Bo, which is part of one of Europe’s oldest universities.
Tour of the Palazzo Po
Attractive colonnades at the Palazzo Bo
I very much enjoyed the tour of the Palazzo Bo that included these striking murals of some of the university’s most illustrious students over the centuries.
Anatomical Theater
Inaugurated in 1595, the anatomical theater at the University of Padua is the world’s first permanent anatomical theater. According to Fabio Zampieri, an associate professor at the University of Padua, “To build a permanent theater for anatomy was in some sense revolutionary because it meant to place anatomy as the foundation of medical studies.” At the time, the Church wasn’t keen on dissecting bodies, so having a purpose-built anatomical theater was kind of a big deal in the evolution of medical knowledge.
The theater is surprisingly tiny and cramped. Back in the day, up to 250 students and professors would crowd into the tiered space to look down at the dissection of a human cadaver far below. Most were either executed criminals or deceased hospital patients. With its six elliptical rings circling skyward, the theater seems to mimic the shape of an eye or telescope. Under the main entrance to the theater, a 16th-century Latin inscription reads, “This is a place where the dead are pleased to help the living.” Cheerful stuff.
View from the bottom of the anatomical theater
As part of the tour, we ducked under a low door to enter the bottom of the theater where the cadaver would be laid out for the professor to dissect. It was exceedingly creepy to stand in the narrow space and look up at the six tiers where the spectators would stand. According to the guide, the railing encircling each tier was just high enough to prevent an observer from toppling forward when they fainted. Apparently, people frequently fainted in the confined–and likely very smelly–space. I shuddered and was happy to move on to the rest of the tour.
Scale model of the anatomical theater showing the six tiers around which up to 250 spectators would gather and look down
First Woman to Earn a Degree
A highlight at the end of the tour was the statue of Elena Lucrezia Cornora, the first woman in the world to receive a university degree. The daughter of a wealthy Venetian family, she originally wanted to receive a degree in Theology. The bishop of Padua wouldn’t allow that, but did allow her to get a degree in Philosophy in 1678.
Pratto delle Valle
The Pratto delle Valle has to be one of Europe’s most attractive public spaces. It’s an oval-shaped island encircled by a canal in the center of a grand piazza. On a brilliantly sunny day in November, it was a delightful place to wander around. Here are two views of the Pratto dell Valle, mercifully uncrowded in mid-morning.
Pratto delle Valle in Padua
We visited twice–once when it was empty and the second time when it was packed with one of the largest outdoor markets I’ve seen in Europe. You could buy just about anything you wanted–from clothing to gloves to food to flowers to Christmas decorations. We picked up gloves to ward off the November chill and I treated myself to yet another new purse. Italy is such a great place to buy purses!
Botanical Gardens
Created in 1545, the botanical garden (Orto Botanico) in Padua is the world’s first botanical garden and is a surprising highlight, even in November. The garden still preserves its original layout – a circular central plot, symbolizing the world, surrounded by a ring of water. Most of the plants were dormant, but a few trees were still decked out in their autumnal glory.
We particularly enjoyed the new exhibition center (inaugurated in February 2023) that is part of the gardens. A series of well laid out displays–many of them interactive (English and Italian)–showcase the history of the botanical garden, its plants, and the people who collected them.
Exhibition space at the Botanical Gardens
Day Trip to Vicenza
Many years ago when I was student studying for a master’s degree in Drama at the University of Toronto, I had a professor who waxed lyrical about the Teatro Olimpico. She described how she arrived at the building housing the 16th-century theater just before closing and was denied entry. Apparently, she burst into tears, so intent was she to see this masterpiece of Palladian and theatrical architecture. Fortunately, the guard took pity on her and let her in.
Ever since then, I’ve longed to visit the Teatro Olimpico in Vicenza. This pretty town is a short train ride from Padua, and so we set off on a blue sky day to check it out.
Visit to the Teatro Olimpico
Located in the Piazza Matteotti, a brief taxi ride from the train station, the Teatro Olimpico is the world’s first indoor theater constructed with interiors made of wood, stucco and plaster. The great architect Andrea Palladio built the theater between 1580 and 1585. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The design of the theater is inspired by ancient Roman theaters and features an elliptical terraced auditorium, framed by a colonnade, and a frieze topped by statues.
The elliptical auditorium where we sat facing the stage
The rectangular stage is bound by a massive proscenium with two orders of architecture and consisting of three arcades that are divided by half-columns. As you sit in the steeply tiered auditorium, you peer into the arcades to see shadowy streets curving into darkness.
Sound and Light Show at the Teatro Olimpico
At regular intervals, visitors to the Teatro Olimpico are treated to a rousing sound and light show where a myriad of colored spotlights plays across the proscenium to the accompaniment of stirring music. It’s pretty over-the-top and yet a fitting tribute to the breathtaking beauty of Palladio’s structure.
Here are some glimpses through the archways into a masterpiece of perspective.
Even if theater history isn’t your thing, a visit to the Teatre Olimpico is a must.
After visiting the theater, we spent a few hours wandering around Vicenza, which we found to be a charming northern Italian town that’s worth an afternoon of your time.
Day Trip to Venice
Venice is only about 30 minutes by train from Padua and so it seemed foolish to not spend a day there. As mentioned, I’ve visited Venice several times (and will visit again in 2024), but Venice never disappoints. The minute we stepped off the train and walked to the edge of the Grand Canal, Venice again worked its magic on us.
Views such as this of quiet side canals never get old in beautiful Venice
We spent the day–a gloriously sunny one–walking and walking and walking. We decided not to take a trip on the vaporetto, opting instead to stroll through the Carneggio district to Piazza San Marco, then crossing the Grand Canal on the Accademia Bridge and walking back through the labyrinthine and over peaceful side canals streets to the train station.
Carol and Gregg in St. Mark’s Square on a sunny day in November
Visit to Saint Mark’s Basilica in Venice
Even in November, Venice was crowded, but a lot less crowded than I’ve seen it at warmer times of the year. For the first time ever, the line-up to get into Saint Mark’s Basilica was short enough to be worth the wait, so finally we got to see inside.
Wow! The interior of Saint Mark’s Basilica is one giant glitterfest with sparkling golden mosaics covering every available surface. You’ll get a sore neck looking up, but it’s worth it. We took it all in with awestruck wonder before returning to the Piazzo San Marco to spend an hour or so sitting in the sun and watching the world go by.
Mosaics cover every available surface in Venice’s
An Exhibition, a Cathedral, and a Quiet Canal
During our week in Padua, we also attended the opening of Gregg’s exhibition at the Queen Art Gallery, had a quick look inside the impressive cathedral, and enjoyed many walks alongside peaceful canals slumbering in the autumn sunshine.
While Padua has several worthy tourist sites, it’s not a particularly touristy town. The vast majority of people out on the streets are locals, and many are students from the university which gives the town a youthful, vibrant feel. It’s an easy town to walk around with plenty to look at along the way.
Gregg Simpson at the opening of his exhibition in PaduaThe Cathedral in Padua
Home Away From Home in Padua
We stayed in a two-bedroom apartment not far from the train station in Padua. While the neighborhood was, admittedly, a bit nondescript, we were close to plenty of food shops, fast-food joints, and restaurants, and within walking distance of the center of Padua. Here’s a shot of a typical canal side scene that we’d pass on our way from the apartment into Padua’s old town.
We chose the apartment for its location near the edge of Padua because we were driving and did not want to try navigating the medieval streets of old Padua. The apartment came with a parking place, which turned out to be accessible via a car elevator. Here’s a shot of us retrieving our car at the end of our eight-night stay.
Here’s the link to the apartment. I highly recommend it if you’re looking for comfortable accommodations that won’t break your budget.
The map below shows many other options for hotels and apartments in Padua.
The Uffizi Gallery in Florence is an Artsy Traveler must-see, particularly for artsy travelers who love Renaissance art. I’ve visited Florence six times over the past thirty years, and on most visits, I take the time to visit the Uffizi Gallery. Few artsy traveler pursuits equal the joy of wandering blissfully through rooms full of many of western Europe’s most iconic masterpieces.
In this post, I highlight ten of my favorite pieces in the Uffizi Gallery, based on my most recent visit in November 2023.
When to Visit
The very best time to visit the Uffizi Gallery is first thing in the morning, particularly if you are visiting in high season (April to October). You’ll have the vast complex to yourself, at least for a little while, so you can trip wide-eyed from room to room in peace. You may even snag a place in front of one of the two most famous Botticellis without sharing air with dozens of other people.
If you’re visiting Florence between November and March, you’ll find fewer crowds and a more relaxed pace. As a result, you’ll likely be comfortable visiting at any time of day. On my recent visit in November, I chose an afternoon visit. Although the Uffizi was less crowded than I’ve found it at other times of the year, it was hardly empty. I still saw a long line-up of people who hadn’t gotten the memo about buying their tickets in advance, and large groups of art lovers jockeying for position in front of the Botticellis.
Getting Tickets
No matter what time of year you visit, purchase your tickets to the Uffizi Gallery in advance. In high season, purchase them at least a week or more before your visit. You’ll get the entry time that suits your schedule and you won’t need to queue up.
We arrived at the Uffizi about 45 minutes before our 13:15 entry time. The weary ticket collector let us in anyway, probably because it was November. The only delay was getting through security.
Location of the Uffizi Gallery
The map below shows the location of the Uffizi Gallery in Florence. Also shown is the location of the Accademia (#2), the Duomo (aka Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore) at #3, the Bargelo (#4), the Museo di Palazzo Davanzati–an awesome small museum showing what life was like for a wealthy person in medieval Florence (#5), and the gorgeous apartment we stayed in on the banks of the Arno during our three-day stay in Florence in November 2023 (#6: see below for more information about the Palazzo Serristori Residence — high recommended).
The Uffizi Gallery is large and brimming with amazing art. Pace yourself. I suggest you focus on enjoying ten to twenty pieces rather than stopping to admire every piece. Doing so will quickly exhaust you.
Even in November, visitors throng the long corridors in the Uffizi
The Uffizi’s collection is spread across two floors, with the most famous pieces by artists such as Botticelli, Michelangelo, Raphael, and Giotto located on the second floor. I suggest taking the elevator, or climbing the long flights of stairs to Level 2 and then starting with the room of medieval art that contains gorgeous works by Giotti, Lorenzetti, and Martini.
Here are my ten favorite pieces in the Uffizi, presented by artist and in the order in which I encountered them.
Giotto
I’ve become a big Giotto fan over the years. Although he died in 1337, Giotto is considered the first artist of the Renaissance because of his use of realism to depict his subjects. His most famous works are the frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua and Assisi.
Madonna and Child Enthroned with Angels and Saints shown below is one of Giotto’s most iconic pieces. It’s truly breathtaking, particularly when you realize that Giotto painted it in 1306 at a time when other artists were still depicting everything on one plane. Check out the Madonna’s knee under the blue drapery of her gown. It’s three-dimensional. This use of perspective set Giotto apart from his contemporaries and heralded the realism that become the hallmark of the Renaissance painters such as Da Vinci and Raphael over 150 years later. This painting was a source of inspiration for Florentine artists for generations.
Madonna and Child Enthroned with Angels and Saints, 1306-10, Giotto
Martini
I have a huge soft spot for Simone Martini, who was active in the mid-14th century. I even include a reference to his Maesta fresco in Siena’s Palazzo Pubblico in my novel The Towers of Tuscany. In The Annunciation with St. Ansansu and St. Maxima, below, I love Martini’s over-the-top use of gold, as well as how he shows the Archangel Gabriel in relationship to Mary.
Martini depicts a fluttering cloak and unfurled wings to suggest that the angel’s appearance is sudden. No wonder Mary looks distressed, turning away and wrapping her cloak around her. The fact that Gabriel is telling her she’s to be the mother of Jesus would have likely added to her confusion and distress. In her hand, Mary holds a book. Martini is likening her to a wealthy Sienese woman–the only women who would be able to afford a book, much less read it. Memmo Lippi is also given credit for the work, although apparently Lorenzetti is considered by art critics to be responsible for the conception and execution of the painting.
Annunciation with St. Maxima and St. Ansanus, 1333, Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi
Lorenzetti
Every time I walk into a room of medieval paintings in an art museum, I make a beeline for anything painted by Ambrolgio Lorenzetti. He’s a Siena hometown boy who was a major figure in his day, before succumbing to the plague (so far as we know) in 1348. He painted The Allegory of Good and Bad Government frescoes in Siena’s Palazzo Publicco, one of the palazzo’s many breathtaking highlights.
Lorenzetti painted the four panels from the life of St. Nicholas shown below. I get such a kick out of Lorenzetti’s depictions both of people and life in medieval Siena and the architecture–the graceful archways, exterior staircases, and crenelated rooftops. I’ve spent a lot of time over the years looking at Lorenzetti’s work to help me visualize what Siena looked like in the mid-14th century so that I can accurately write about the period.
St. Nicolas Gives to the Poor
In the top left painting, St. Nicholas is throwing pieces of gold to a poor man to enable him to gather the dowry required to marry off his daughters. The point is that St. Nicholas is carrying out the charitable deed secretly and humbly, without seeking acknowledgment (what a swell guy!).
St. Nicholas Gets Ordained
In the bottom left painting, St. Nicholas is being ordained as a bishop of the city of Myra in Asia Minor. The legend is that the prelates who had gathered to elect the new bishop of Myra heard a voice ordering them to choose the first man named Nicholas who entered the church. And guess who just happened to walk in?
St. Nicholas Raises the Dead
The top right painting depicts a miracle performed by St. Nicholas after his death. He returns to bring a child back to life after the child was killed by the devil disguised as a pilgrim (the figure in black mounting the stairs). There’s a lot to look at in this panel. I particularly like the way the figures are portrayed in the upper and lower rooms.
St. Nicholas Talks to Sailors
In bottom right panel, Nicholas asks sailors to give some of the grain their ships are carrying to the starving people of Myra. When the sailors comply, the ships are miraculously replenished with grain.
Uccello
This large painting by Paolo Uccello dominated the wall on which it was installed in the Uffizi. Check out all the horses–so much vigor and action. The painting is called The Battle of San Romano and is part of a cycle of three paintings that celebrated the victory of the Florentine forces over the Sienese troops in 1432.
Poor Siena. It had a tough time after being devastated by plague in 1348 and then suffering numerous mercenary raids, famines, and hostile takeovers culminating in its defeat at the hands of the bellicose Florentines in 1432. While I’m firmly on the side of Team Siena since I’m currently writing a novel set there, I have to admire how Uccello depicted the battle in his painting.
The Battle of Romano, 1435-40, Paolo Uccello
Botticelli
Almost everyone who visits the Uffizi is captivated by two of Botticelli’s most famous paintings–Primavera and The Birth of Venus. They are both huge and both fantastic–that is, if you can get close enough to get a good, long look.
The large room in which the paintings are hung is mobbed with visitors, all brandishing cell phones and elbowing for position to get a good shot. I know. I was one of them.
Standing in quiet contemplation is out of the question. But it’s still worth seeing the paintings in the flesh, so to speak, just to confirm that yes, indeed, they deserve their vaunted place in western art history. The figures are ethereal and also realistic, the movement joyous, the themes full of promise and celebration. I don’t think it’s possible to look at Botticelli’s masterpieces and not smile.
Primavera
Here’s what you see while approaching Primavera.
And here’s the shot I managed to get when it was my turn to step in front of the painting. It truly is a wonderful work. Botticelli had chops, all right. Look at how he depicts the gossamer draperies encasing the three dancing muses and the figure to the right. The central figure in the painting is Venus, goddess of love and beauty. She’s a stunner for sure.
Primavera, 1480, Sandro Botticelli
TheBirth of Venus
TheBirth of Venus is just as mobbed as Primavera, which comes as no surprise considering versions of this work appears on everything from aprons to mugs to mouse pads in Florence’s gift shops. There is so much movement; you can practically feel the wind in your hair as you contemplate this painting, which depicts Venus, goddess of love and beauty, surfing to land on a clamshell, gently spritzed with sea spray and blown by the winds Zephyr and Aura.
I wasn’t able to get a decent shot of the painting, so the image below is from the Uffizi’s marvelous website.
The Birth of Venus, 1486, Sandro Botticelli
Michelangelo
Florence’s Number One Son is well represented at the Uffizi Gallery and elsewhere in Florence. Thanks to a long and prolific career, Michelangelo’s work is pretty much synonymous with the Italian Renaissance. The Uffizi Gallery has the magnificent, circular Doni Tondo, the only finished panel painting done by Michelangelo that has survived the centuries. It glows.
Doni Tondo, 1505-1506, Michelangelo
Piero della Francesca
This double portrait by Piero della Francesca positively defines aristocratic haughtiness. Imagine the amount of time the duchess must have had to sit still to have that hairdo done. I’m hoping it wasn’t a daily thing. Look at the background–how it continues through from one side to the next. Showing the two figures in profile is a typical device in 15th century portraits that was a throwback to ancient coins. The artist’s attention to detail is a result of his training in both Florentine and Flemish traditions.
The Duke and Duchess of Urbino Frederico da Montefeltro and Battista Sforza, 1473-75, Piero della Francesca
Leonardo da Vinci
Another big draw to the Uffizi Gallery is the presence of a handful of paintings by Leonardo da Vinci. My favorite is his Annunciation because I love the contrast in styles between da Vinci’s version done in the late 15th century and Martini’s version done in the mid-14th century (see above).
In da Vinci’s Annunication, the figures are rendered extremely realistically and are also quite static. The Virgin is not shrinking away but is is confident and receptive. The trees almost look like fantasy trees, and the distant mountains like something out of Lord of the Rings. The way da Vinci renders the folds of the clothing is remarkable, considering he completed this painting when he was still quite young.
Annunciation, 1472, Leonardo da Vinci
Raphael
I’ve grown to appreciate Raphael’s work over the years. He’s certainly one of the biggies, considered by some to be the greatest painter of them all. There’s a lot of justification for that view. Unlike Michelangelo and da Vinci, who had other pursuits (science for da Vinci and architecture and sculpture for Michelangelo), Raphael only did painting–and an astonishing amount of it considering he died young, while da Vinci and Michelangelo both lived to ripe old ages.
The work by Raphael I most liked in the Uffizi is Madonna of the Goldfinch. The Madonna’s expression is so youthful and serene; unlike many Madonnas, she really does look like a young mum. The trees and landscape in the background are so beautifully rendered. In places they almost look like something Cézanne would have painted 400 years later. And check out the red of the Madonna’s gown–so rich and full and Florentine. It’s a keeper.
Mary, Christ and the young John the Baptist, known as “Madonna of the Goldfinch“, 1506, Raffaello Sanzio
More Uffizi
After exploring the long galleries on Level 2 of the Uffizi, you can descend to Level 1 to take in even more masterpieces of the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries. Highlights include several works by Caravaggio. If you have the energy, don’t miss them.
Enjoying Florence
You emerge from the Uffizi into the beautiful piazza della Signoria. Here, you’ll stare up at the Palazzo Vecchio with its iconic tower, check out a statue of Michelangelo’s David (the original is displayed in the Accademia), and marvel at the fountain and statue of Neptune. Here’s a shot of it in the evening.
Neptune’s Fountain in the Piazza della Signoria in Florence
Resist the urge to stop and have a coffee at one of the cafes in the piazza, These high-rent places cater to tourists and have sky-high prices. Walk a few blocks into the maze of streets leading from the piazza toward the river to find slightly less touristy places, although to be honest, Florence is Tourism Central. And no wonder! It’s crowded, crammed with souvenir shops, and far from undiscovered. But hey, it’s Florence, and there’s no place on Earth quite like it for conjuring the grandeur and pomposity of the Renaissance.
Staying in Florence
On each visit to Florence, I’ve stayed somewhere different–sometimes on the outskirts and sometimes in the middle. My very favorite place was Serristori Palace Residence where we stayed during our trip in November 2023. Although a bit on the pricey side, the Serristori Palace Residence is excellent value because of the size of the one-bedroom apartment, with high ceilings, view of the river, and its stunning location.
Here’s a video I shot from the bedroom window early on a breezy November morning.
You will need to walk a good fifteen minutes to reach the center of Florence. But the walk that takes you along the Arno is just spectacular, particularly at sunset. Compared to a typical hotel room in Florence, the Serristori Palace Residence is almost a bargain, at least for Florence.
Here’s me on the walk into Florence on a brilliantly sunny (but not particularly warm) November day.
What Else to See in Florence
You can easily spend several days in Florence, immersing yourself in the great art of the western world. If you’re short on time, consider a guided tour. Here are a few suggestions from Get Your Guide. I’ve taken several of their tours and been very satisfied with the price, the quality of the guides, and the ease of booking
As an Artsy Traveler, one of the most rewarding things I recommend you do is sign up for an artsy retreat in a gorgeous location. You’ll get inspired while learning new techniques and meeting like-minded travelers.
I recently discovered the Villa Lena in Tuscany (and I LOVE Tuscany!) where you can do just that.
Imagine spending four days surrounded by spring flowers in the Tuscan countryside while you learn how to arrange and paint flowers with master artist Tanvi Pathare. From May 5th to 10th in 2023, Tanvi will be conducting four watercolor master classes that “will focus on an old and healing art form: the slow-paced appreciation of flowers, landscapes, and natural beauty.”
Sounds pretty awesome to me! I hooked up virtually with Tanvi and asked her some questions about her background as an artist and about her upcoming Flower Painting Retreat at the Villa Lena in Tuscany.
Interview with Tanvi Pathare
I interviewed Tanvi virtually (and hope one day to meet and learn with her in person!). Here is our interview.
Who is Tanvi Pathare?
Artsy Traveler: Tell us about your background as an artist–where you studied and some of your influences.
Tanvi Pathare: I was born in Mumbai, India. Since an early age, I was fascinated by the idea that you could create something beautiful with your hands; I enjoyed the craft element of it. I studied at the Sir J. J. School of Art in Mumbai, after which I moved to Florence in the search of more formal training as a realist painter.
I studied in the painting program at the Florence Academy of Art. After graduating from this program, I began teaching, and have been a Principal Instructor for drawing and painting at The Florence Academy ever since.
I look up to painters such as Rembrandt, Titian, Van Dyck, John Singer Sargent, Emil Carlsen, Henri Fantin-Latour, and Isaac Levitan to name a few.
Tanvi’s Inspiration
Artsy Traveler: What is it about floral painting that inspires you?
Tanvi Pathare: I feel my journey as a painter involves the constant delightful pursuit of studying the perfection of nature. Flowers are a wonderful source of inspiration, as they change, move, and grow. I find tracking their beauty through paint highly intriguing.
Tanvi teaching painting in Florence
Tanvi’s Favorite Flowers
Artsy Traveler: Do you have any favorite flowers that you particularly enjoy painting?
Tanvi Pathare: I truly enjoy painting roses and peonies. I think their overall forms are very intricate, and hence a good place to spend a few hours meditating over them.
Painting of peonies by Tanvi Pathare
Influences of Location
Artsy Traveler: You grew up in India and now live in Florence. How have these locations inspired you? What changed in your work when you moved to Europe?
Tanvi Pathare: I think having grown up in India, color (and a lot of it) was always a part of my visual aesthetic. Moving to Florence, I think my palette, became a bit more harmonized, though still having sharp color notes. My formal training in Florence helped me organize my ideas in a more cohesive way. Living in Florence, you are spoilt by the beauty around you. I think Mumbai and Florence will always be an integral part of my language as a painter.
Villa Lena Workshop
Artsy Traveler: As a workshop leader, what do you hope participants will take away from their experience painting with you?
Tanvi Pathare: hope that participants walk away with a new found appreciation of nature and flowers. Painting flowers is a beautiful way of truly appreciating their beauty because you spend much longer looking at them, versus just taking a picture of them and moving along..
White Roses by Tanvi Pathare
Tanvi Pathare’s Artwork
Tanvi’s art is truly exquisite. Her website beautifully showcases her work with various subjects: portraits, landscapes, and still lifes (lots of flowers in this category).
Here is a selection of some of her works I particularly liked. I can definitely see how she is influenced by masters such as Titian and Rembrandt and also by 19th century painters such as Henri Fantin-Latour and John Singer Sargent.
Landscapes by Tanvi Pathare
Tanvi’s website includes several paintings of the Tuscan landscape. Artists have been captivated by this landscape for centuries and no wonder. Tanvi captures the light and motion with fluid strokes and an eye for strong composition.
The Valley in Lucca by Tanvi PathareThe Mediterranean by Tanvi Pathare
Still Lifes by Tanvi Pathare
I often gravitate to still life paintings when I tour art museums. I especially enjoy flower paintings, perhaps because my mother painted flowers almost until she passed at the age of 93. So flower paintings have been a part of my life forever. Also, although I’m not the best of gardeners, I love watching flowers grow! Tanvi’s flower paintings really spoke to me. She captures the exuberance of their colors and the whimsy of their forms spilling out of vases and scattering petals. I feel like I can reach out and pluck a rose just before it falls.
Wine and Roses by Tanvi Pathare
Of Peonies and Roses by Tanvi Pathare
A Wisteria Dream by Tanvi Pathare
Still Life with Roses and Cherry Blossoms by Tanvi Pathare
The Flower Painting Workshop at Villa Lena runs from May 5th to May 10th, 2023. You stay at the Villa Lena and can participate in many more activities in addition to flower painting.
When I read the description about what participants in Tanvi’s floral painting workshop at the Villa Lena are going to do during their stay, I wish I could hop on a plane and attend myself. Alas, not this Spring, although I plan to visit the Villa Lena when I’m in Tuscany in the Fall of 2023.
Here’s what you’ll enjoy during your floral painting workshop:
5 nights accommodation on site at Villa Lena
Full board – farm to table feasting.
4 master classes on painting floral compositions with Tanvi Pathare
Wine tasting
Afternoon tea & baking lesson with in-house pastry chef
Pasta cooking class
Olive oil tasting
Guided tours of the VL orto & flower farm, with flower cutting session
Daily Yoga
Access to Villa Lena facilities including 2 pools, 2 bars and beautiful common areas.
That sounds like an amazing way to spend some time in Tuscany! Interested?
Full disclosure: If you follow this link and book a stay at the Villa Lena, I earn a small commission. Thank you!
Visit Villa Lena
Villa Lena is located in the heart of Tuscany between Pisa and Florence. The villa hosts retreats and offers agriturismo accommodation.
Villa Lena in TuscanyPool overlooking the Tuscany countryside at Villa Lena
Staying at the Villa Lena
The accommodations at Villa Lena are stylish and comfortable. I’m imagining myself sitting in front of that view doing some writing. I’ve always found Tuscany an incredibly inspiring place to work and can’t wait to get back there in Fall 2023.
View from a room at Vill Lena
A bedroom at the Villa Lena
Villa Lena Foundation
The villa is also affiliated with the Villa Lena Foundation, a not-for-profit organization dedicated to supporting international contemporary artists working in art, music, film, literature, fashion, and other creative disciplines, and fostering opportunities for multi-disciplinary dialogue. If you’re an artist, you can apply to do at residency at the Villa Lena Foundation. Applications open soon for residencies in 2024. Check the Villa Lena Foundation website for details.
Art studio at the Villa Lena Foundation
Conclusion
Are you traveling to Tuscany this spring? Consider spending time at the Villa Lena learning flower painting with Tanvi Pathare. You’ll come away with a renewed appreciation of the beauty of nature and a painting or two that you’ve created.
Have you ever taken an art workshop or gone on a painting retreat? Share your experience and suggestions with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.
Here are some more posts about artists and artsy traveling in Tuscany:
Every so often when traveling, serendipty rears its delightful head. The plans you’ve made go awry, but instead of facing disaster, you step into something even more wonderful.
That happened to us in October 2022 a few kilometers out of the fabled town of Montepulciano in Tuscany.
Read about our day leading up to finding Sant’Antonio Country Resort or cut to the chase and scroll down to my review!
Lead-Up to Montepulciano
In Rome, we woke up to the first rainy day of our time in Italy (we’d been in the country two weeks). The clanging at the building site next door to our apartment was slightly muted, much to our relief. After nine nights, it was time to leave the Eternal City. We were all packed and waiting at the door for our 10:30 Uber. Horrendous Rome traffic delayed him over half an hour, but when he finally arrived, Roberto was cheerful and helpful.
Thirty minutes later, he dropped us at the garage where we found the same smiling attendant and our car already out of its slot and waiting for us to drive it away. What a wonderful service. Shout-out to Parclick!
Arrival in Montepulciano
We made it out of Rome without even one wrong turn—perhaps a record for us! Soon, we were back on the Autostrade speeding north to Tuscany. Ah, Tuscany! It’s one of my favorite places in Europe which is why I set my first novel, The Towers of Tuscany, there. I’m working on two more novels set in Tuscany; perhaps on this trip I’d find more inspiration to finish them.
The beauty of the Tuscany landscape never gets old
After a smooth two-hour drive, we pulled up in front of our hotel for two nights—a lovely Albergo about five minutes outside Montepulciano. Neither of us had ever visited Montepulciano and so decided that on this trip we’d skip our usual visits to San Gimignano and Siena and see something new. Good call!
No Room at the Inn
Except we had a few more hoops to go through before the full Tuscan experience would wash over us.
The proprietor of the hotel looked puzzled when I give him my name. He searched his list, frowned, shook his head.
No, Signora.
Oh dear. I pulled out my phone and showed him my booking on booking.com and said in a somewhat aggrieved tone, We’ve definitely booked! See – October 13 to 15! A little shiver of doubt ran through me as I said this. Wasn’t today October 13?
He peered at my phone. Ah. That’s 2023, Signora.
Oh.
And of course the place was full.
Plan B
We piled back into the car and started driving toward a place he suggested. Within three minutes–Google Maps notwithstanding–we were lost. We’ve found that Google Maps doesn’t always work well in the Italian countryside, or in the cities for that matter.
Gregg pulled over and I consulted my phone to see what booking.com had to offer. Fortunately, several options popped up around Montepulciano. We wanted something outside the town in a country setting. Over the years, we’ve had our share of disasters when we’ve booked places within the medieval walls of an ancient town. If you’ve ever done so, you’ll know what I mean. And if you haven’t, trust me.
Never book a place inside the walls of a medieval city. Ever.
Success
After a few searches, I selected Sant’Antonio Country Resort. It ticked all the boxes–countryside, looked pretty, nice big rooms, mid-range price, and best of all, available. I booked it, paid for it, and entered the address in Google Maps. The suggested route took us around Montepulciano where a band of red showed traffic congestion. Another route, slower but seemingly more direct, took us across country in a straight line.
Throwing caution to the wind, I decided to ignore Google Maps and the nice GPS lady and directed Gregg along the other route.
On Our Way Again
Soon, we were bumping along dirt roads cleaving through vine-studded fields punctuated by deep green cypresses. In the distance, a row of pale blue Tuscan mountains floated in a smoky autumnal haze.
It wasthe Tuscany of our dreams. And fortunately, the road, although unpaved, was not undrivable and so at a leisurely and extremely scenic pace, we eventually arrived at a massive iron gate—the entrance to the grandly named Sant’Antonio Country Resort.
I wasn’t sure what to expect.
I pressed the intercom and we drove in. The owners were incredibly welcoming and friendly. They informed us that never in the history of their working with booking.com had anyone ever booked on the website on the same day they wanted to stay. Apparently, the system is designed to reject such bookings.
But for some unexplainable reason, a glitch in the system let us through. How fortuitous!
Heaven at Sant’Antonio Country Resort: My Review
Sant’Antonio Country Resort is everything we love about Tuscany. Here’s why:
Located out in the country but still within a short drive of an iconic hilltown, in this case, Montepulciano
Plenty of free parking and easy to drive to
Gorgeous self-contained units in a renovated medieval convent
Most units with terraces
A swimming pool and many outdoor areas on the grounds
Plenty of country walks and scenic drives nearby
Stunning vistas of olive trees and cypresses at every turn
Excellent reviews
Friendly and accommodating owners who speak English and genuinely love sharing their little piece of heaven with their guests
And at the Sant’Antonio Country Resort, there is even a friendly fox that likes to steal shoes. We were warned not to leave our shoes outside our door because the fox would take them. What the fox does with the shoes is a mystery, but we agreed not to find out.
Our Accommodation at Sant’Antonio Country Resort
The owners very kindly upgraded us to a two-bedroom apartment complete with very comfortable living room, a big dining room, a large bed in the master bedroom, a second smaller bedroom where we stashed the luggage, and two bathrooms.
Oh, and two terraces.
Here are a few photographs of the place.
Our two-bedroom apartment is on the ground floor
Comfortable living room and dining area
On a walk on the grounds of the resort
Beautiful spots for relaxing all over the property
Memorable Dinners in Montepulciano
After a few hours reveling in our good luck, we left around 5 pm for a drive up to Montepulciano which we discovered is a lovely, calm town, much less frenetic than other Tuscan towns such as San Gimignano.
The deal here is food and wine—lots of wine, particularly the vino nobile of Montepulciano. We stopped at a little bar and I sampled my first glass while Gregg had a cappuccino. With about an hour to kill before our dinner reservation (kindly made by our hosts at Sant’Antonio Country Resort), we climbed the cobbled streets to reach the piazza. It was nearly empty in the early evening. I imagine that during the day, the place is mobbed.
Carol in the Grande Piazza in Montepulciano
Sunset over Tuscany from MontepulcianoDarkness falls over Montepulciano
Dinner at Porta di Bacco was served in an ancient room replete with a column (is it Roman?) and brick arches. The wine and food were predictably excellent. I ordered gnocchi with a duck ragout—hearty and tasty. The food here is different from Rome – more country-style and a nice change from the usual fare offered in Roman trattorias, which can get a bit repetitive.
After a moonlit stroll back to the car, we faced the challenging drive in the dark back to Sant’Antonio Country Resort. A drive that in daylight is quick and easy took on a different tenor at night. We made a few wrong turns but eventually got back on track and were soon pulling into our temporary home.
The next night we dined at Ristorante La Grotta, outside the city walls. Located in a 16th-century building, the restaurant was directly opposite the Church of San Biagio, a noted example of Tuscan Renaissance architecture.
Getting settled at the Ristorante La Grotta
My dessert
Church of San Biagio with Montepulciano perched on the hill above
I highly recommend Ristorante La Grotta for a Tuscan splurge. The service was impeccable and the food excellent. It was the most expensive meal we had in nine weeks, but at 110 Euros for three gourmet courses and excellent wine, it was an amazing bargain!
Enjoying Sant’Antonio Country Resort
While at Sant’Antonio Country Resort, we met some fellow Canadians who shared that they’ve visited before, and love returning. I can’t say I blame them!
We spent our day “off” from traveling by taking walks around the property (it stretches for several hectares), enjoying a drive along small country roads in the area, and generally chilling out. We even saw the fox!
Gregg working on one of our two terraces
Swimming pool (too cold in October!)
Walkway to our suite
An outdoor dining area for guests
Beautiful vista of Tuscan countryside near Sant’Antonio Country Resort
Should You Visit Sant’Antonio Country Resort?
If you’re looking for a Tuscan retreat that is reasonably priced (albeit slightly on the high side, but worth it), set in a glorious landscape, and owned by very helpful and friendly hosts, then I can’t recommend Sant’Antonio Country Resort highly enough.
For other places in and around Montepulciano, click the map below.
Many years ago, I took a wine tour of Tuscany that included a visit to a vineyard near Montepulciano. If you have a day to spare while visiting Tuscany, I highly recommend booking a wine tour. Here are a few suggestions.
Other Posts about Tuscany
Over the past three decades, I’ve visited Tuscany at least a dozen times, and every time I discover new wonders to enjoy and fabulous places to stay. For more suggestions about Tuscany, check out these posts:
Artsy traveling means being on the lookout for interesting encounters with artists, artisans, musicians, writers—the whole pantheon of creative people. In Arezzo, a delightful town in Tuscany known as the city of gold and high fashion, I met with visual artist Silvia Salvadori.
Silvia works out of her studio, the Bottega d’Arte Toscana, on a tiny side street steps from the Piazza Grande in Arezzo (see the map below). If you are in Arezzo, stop by to meet her and see her marvelous work.
Silvia is one of the very few artists in Italy who creates art using the same painting techniques as those used by the great masters of medieval Tuscany. I’m talking about such luminaries as Giotto, Duccio, and Lorenzetti—all artists I love and who inspired my debut novel The Towers of Tuscany.
Who is Silvia Salvadori?
Silvia’s ambition as an artist is to preserve and promote the ancient painting techniques described by Cennino Cennini in his work Il Libro dell’Arte (1370-1440) and by Giorgio Vasari in the Lives of the most excellent painters, sculptors, and architects (1550-1568).
Using these techniques, Silvia draws her inspiration from the art created by artists in Florence and Siena during medieval, Gothic, and early Renaissance times.
Silvia’s workshop–the Bottega d’Arte Toscana–is a treasure trove of beautiful paintings. One of the more prominent pieces is A Window in Time that hangs on the back wall of the Bottega and immediately captured my attention. This arresting painting is a tribute to the city of Arezzo and the work of Piero della Francesca. The painting is a good example of how Silvia uses medieval painting techniques to put her own spin on a medieval subject.
Interview with Silvia Salvadori
I interviewed Silvia in the Bottega d’Arte Toscana in Arezzo in October 2022. Here’s an excerpt from our lively conversation conducted with the aid of a translation app.
Silvia’s Inspiration
Artsy Traveler: Why have you chosen to create works inspired by medieval art and using medieval techniques?
Silvia Salvadori: Twenty years ago, I began to study these painting techniques while at school in Siena. From there, a real adventure began. I decided I wanted to rediscover and use the painting techniques described by Cennini, a painter who lived in the 14th century and was a pupil of Giotto.
Art materials being used in Silvia’s workshop
Silvia’s Goal as an Artist
Artsy Traveler: What is your goal?
SilviaSalvadori: My goal is to preserve these techniques from medieval art and pass them on to future generations. These techniques are typically Tuscan. They were born in Siena and then also applied later by artists living in Florence and Arezzo where other schools of painting were born.
There have been other artists who have taken up these techniques but only to make reproductions or copies. I started by making copies, but now I am creating a style that is Renaissance but that also looks to the future.
It is a cultural project. These medieval art techniques are important and should not be lost.
How Silvia Creates a Painting
Artsy Traveler: How do you create a painting?
Silvia Salvadori: As described in Cennini’s book Il Libro dell’Arte, I start with wooden boards from poplar, lime, willow or pear trees that have been aged at least thirty years. I then prepare them using layers and layers (eight to twelve coats) of rabbit skin glue mixed with chalk. The chalk I use is the same kind that Cennini used in the 14th century. I also use the same pigments that Cennini describes.
The second phase is gilding performed with thin leaves of pure 23 carat gold stretched on a thin layer of red clay. I also use precious gems. These gems all had special meaning in medieval times. For example, amber, which I use a lot, symbolizes eternity.
For a detailed description of all the steps involved in creating a painting, check this page on Silvia’s website.
Silvia demonstrates how she uses a small punch to make designs in the gold leaf.
Landscapes in Silvia’s Work
Artsy Traveler: I see that you also often include landscapes in your paintings.
SilviaSalvadori: Yes, since I live in Arezzo and every day see the Tuscany landscape, I like to include it in my paintings.
An example of one of Silvia Salvadori’s landscape paintings
Looking to the Future
Artsy Traveler: Will you one day teach your techniques?
Silvia: I would very much like to teach young people how to paint using these techniques so that the techniques are not lost. But as Cennino said, technique is not enough. To create art, you must have a kind soul.
Silvia’s Artwork
As soon as you see one of Silvia’s pieces, you know you are looking at work inspired by medieval and Renaissance art. And while most of her subjects are directly related to their medieval and Renaissance counterparts, some subjects are contemporary and from pop culture.
Silvia’s work glows with the rich colors she creates from pigments she mixes with egg tempera, just like Cennini describes in his handbook. Her skill is awe-inspiring. Following are examples of the many gorgeous paintings hanging in Bottega d’Arte.
Paintings of Madonna and Child
Go to any art gallery in Italy that features medieval art and you’ll see scores of depictions of the Madonna and Child. Silvia’s versions, while heavily inspired by medieval works, are fresh and vibrant. The colors glow in the soft light of her workshop.
Here are four of the Madonna and Child paintings displayed in the Bottega d’Arte.
Paintings of Medieval Scenes
I love how medieval artists depicted buildings and towns. Silvia does the same when she includes buildings in her paintings. I particularly loved these two pieces.
Paintings with Contemporary Subjects
Silvia doesn’t confine herself to creating works in the medieval style. Many of the paintings in her workshop depict contemporary subjects—from Marilyn Monroe to a dachshund (one of my favorites).
My Connection to Silvia’s Work
I was thrilled to discover Silvia and her beautiful artwork for two reasons. First, as you’ve already seen from the examples included in this post, her work is stunning. And second, her work has a direct connection with my first novel The Towers of Tuscany about a female painter in 14th-century Tuscany.
When I was researching early Renaissance painting techniques in order to write the novel, I read and re-read Il Libro dell’Arte by Cennino de Cennini many times. Imagine my delight to discover that Silvia is intimately familiar with Cennini’s book, credited as the first manual designed to teach painting techniques to artists.
I felt honored to spend time with someone totally dedicated to her art. Silvia clearly loves what she does. As I watched her paint with tiny brushes that she uses to meticulously layer on stroke after stroke, I felt like the centuries had melted away and I was watching Sofia Barducci, my fictional heroine in The Towers of Tuscany, at work.
I have every confidence that Silvia will be able to realize her ambition to one day share her knowledge with other artists so that the ancient techniques are kept alive.
Visit Silvia Salvadori
Visit Silvia in the Bottega d’Arte Toscana in Arezzo and tell her the Artsy Traveler sent you! And after you’ve enjoyed meeting Silvia, consider purchasing one of her pieces. She has a wide variety of sizes and subjects to choose from. And considering the hours and hours of work Silvia dedicates to each of her pieces, the prices are very reasonable.
I love the small piece I purchased of a stylized Tuscan town painted in Silvia’s unique style. I have hung it next to my writing desk so I can look at it every day and remember the wonderful hour I spent getting to know Silvia and admiring her work.
The small painting I purchased from Silvia Salvadori
Visit Arezzo
After meeting Silvia in the Bottega d’Arte, take time to wander around Arezzo. It’s a charming town with plenty to delight the Artsy Traveler. With its inclined trapezoidal shape, the Piazza Grande is one of the most beautiful in Tuscany (which is saying something!).
Here are some pictures of the Piazza Grande.
And like so many towns in Tuscany, a big attraction is the food. We passed numerous stores and cafes featuring local cuisine. The specialty in Arezzo is Pappardelle all’Aretina (a ribbon-shaped pasta served with a sauce made from rabbit or duck), Zuppa di Cavolo (a cabbage soup), and the Pappa al Pomodoro (a tomato soup).
While in Arezzo, you can also visit the Vasari House Museum, which is a rare example of an artist’s house from the late Renaissance.
Conclusion
Have you visited Arezzo? Share your experience and suggestions with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.
Culinary tourism is definitely a thing, and nowhere more so than in Italy. Food tours and cooking classes abound and for good reason. Italy and food go together like, well, Italy and food.
The popularity of Stanley Tucci’s series Searching for Italy about food in Italy is proof that eating and cooking continue to be two of the many artsy reasons to travel in Italy.
Is cooking an art? Absolutely!
And so, while spending a week in Rome in 2022, I decided to take a cooking class. I’d taken a cooking class in Paris, and one of my guest posters, Liz Reding, has written a post about her cooking class experiences in France and Spain.
It was time for Italy to take a turn.
Choosing InRome Cooking
I chose a 3-hour cooking class with InRome Cooking. Here’s the link to register if, after reading this post, you’re interested in taking the class.
Full disclosure – the link takes you to the Tiqets.com website, which is one of my affiliates. That means I get a small percentage of the ticket price if you register.
Cut to the chase–I highly recommend taking a 3-hour class with InRome Cooking. The time flew by and not only did I learn a lot, but I also enjoyed a fabulous meal that I’d cooked myself with some help from my new friends and chef Marco.
About InRome Cooking
InRome Cooking operates out of three locations:
Flagship school on Corso del Rinascimento in a converted 17th-century palace very close to the Piazza Navona and overlooking the Italian parliament. This is the location for the Hands-on Pasta Making Class & Tiramisù class I took.
A sleek and stylish terraced building near the Pantheon on Via Giustiniani.
A cooking school located in the Pope’s organic farm at his private estate in Castel Gandolfo outside Rome.
My Experience with InRome Cooking
In this post, I write about my experience taking a 3-hour class at the Corso del Rinascimento location.
InRome Cooking offers several classes–either shared or private.
I chose the Hands-on Pasta Making Class & Tiramisù for two reasons. First, my husband, Gregg Simpson, had recently discovered the delectable delights of Tiramisù and so I thought it would be good to learn how to make it at home. And second, I have a pasta maker gathering dust in my cupboard, and felt it was high time I learned how to use it correctly.
Both goals were met during the course of the evening.
Registering for a Class with InRome Cooking
I registered for the class about three days in advance, in October 2022. The registration process through Tiqets.com was quick and efficient. Within seconds, I had my ticket downloaded and ready to show. It’s advisable to register well in advance. I was probably lucky to get a spot because the class of just twelve participants was full.
Arriving at InRome Cooking
Promptly at 5:20, I arrived at InRome Cooking located at Corso del Rinascimento, 65 after passing it and then doubling back. You have to look closely to see the rather small InRome Cooking sign on the door.
InRome Cooking next to the buzzer at Corso del Rinascimento, 65
For a few moments, I was flummoxed, but soon figured out that I needed to ring the buzzer to be let in. A voice answered (phew!), the buzzer buzzed, and I climbed two flights of marble stairs in the converted 17th-century palazzo. I do like a nice palazzo.
I was met at the top of the stairs by Chef Marco holding a clipboard and smiling broadly. He ushered me into a gorgeous, light-filled kitchen and introduced me to my companions for the evening: a mother and son from Arizona; a mother and son from Sweden, a mom and dad and son from San Francisco, and two couples from Toronto.
The InRome Cooking kitchen with ingredients set out to make Tiramisù
The evening began promptly at 5:30 with a welcome glass of prosecco. We were then placed around the large table already laden with the ingredients and utensils we’d need to make Tiramisù.
Prosecco!
Me with chef Marco
Making Tiramisù
We started by making dessert so it would have time to set before enjoying it at the end of the evening.
Chef Marco paired us up and told us to get cracking (literally!). We each separated an egg to get two yolks. The whites were whisked away to be beaten by the sous chefs for later folding into the Tiramisù. We then set to work beating the gorgeous yellow yolks.
Marco told us that fresh eggs are essential for Tiramisù (or indeed any cooking). They shouldn’t be much older than a few weeks and preferably from local hens. I’m lucky that I live on an island where fresh eggs are readily available.
Throughout the evening, Marco emphasized that great cooking starts with the very freshest of ingredients. You don’t need many ingredients to create a wonderful dish when each ingredient is top quality.
Tiramisù Ingredients
For the Tiramisù, we used only six ingredients: fresh eggs, sugar, mascarpone cheese, ladyfingers (called savoiardi), cold coffee, and cocoa powder (unsweetened) for the topping. Tiramisù translates literally as “pick me up,” a direct result of the espresso used in the recipe.
Tiramisù Method
Under Marco’s expert tutelage, we beat sugar into the egg yolks until the color was a rich and creamy light yellow. The more we beat, the creamier the eggs became. I’d say we beat for at least five minutes. Fortunately, Marco supplied links to recipes at the end of the class so I didn’t need to make notes.
After beating the eggs and sugar, we stirred in very generous dollops of mascarpone cheese. Marco emphasized that precise measuring is not necessary in Italian cooking. A generous tablespoon looked to me more like two or three level tablespoons. But then is there such a thing as too much marscapone?
Next step was folding in generous spoonfuls of whipped egg yolks.
Layering the Tiramisù
With our creamy, eggy, cheesy concoction all mixed and ready to go, we were ready to build our Tiramisù. Marco handed each of us a lovely big tea cup (I suppose coffee cup would be more accurate!) and demonstrated the next steps.
First, I took a ladyfinger biscuit and dipped it quickly into the bowl of cold espresso. Down and up, no lingering. The ladyfinger should absorb the coffee but not be dissolved by it. I then broke the ladyfinger in two and placed it at the bottom of the cup.
Next, I spooned in half of the creamy, eggy, cheesy mixture and then dipped and broke another ladyfinger. Finally, I slathered on the rest of the creamy stuff.
One more step! We were given shakers of pure, unsweetened cocoa to sprinkle on top of the Tiramisù and directed to carve something meaningful into the cocoa so we’d know which one is ours.
Here’s my first (and extremely delicious) attempt at Tiramisù with my initials etched in with a toothpick:
Tiramisù made at InRome Cooking
Making Pasta
The Tiramisùs were whisked away and the large workspace cleaned by the staff while I mingled for a while with the other guests and enjoyed another glass of prosecco. Two of the people from Toronto had been to Bowen Island where I live, and one has a friend who has just written her first historical novel. Coincidentally, it’s about a subject that intrigued me after visiting the Back to Backs National Trust property in Birmingham. Small world.
We were to make two kinds of pasta: cacio e pepe and amatriciana. It turned out we wouldn’t be making the sauces; Marco demonstrated that. Our job was to make the pasta.
Marco showed us how to mix the two flours and then to knead in the olive oil to make a beautiful, yellow dough. Next step was to pass the dough through the rollers of the pasta maker several times to flatten it and then through the cutters.
The pasta makers were equipped with two cutters–one to make spaghetti which we later ate with the cacio e pepe sauce and one to make fettucine, which we ate with the amatriciana sauce.
Carol flattening the pasta
Making the Sauces
As he had all evening, Marco emphasized the importance of using just a few, top quality ingredients.
Amatriciana Sauce
The amatriciana sauce contains only three ingredients: Mutti tomato sauce (it only contains tomatoes grown in Italy, of course), small pieces of pork cheek that have been very slowly cooked to release the fat and flavor, and romano cheese.
Marco cooked the fettucine we’d just made for a very few minutes and then showed us how to combine the pasta with the three-ingredient sauce. The smell was amazing!
Cacio e pepeSauce
This sauce is a Roman specialty and is the simplest of all. Only two ingredients are used–romano cheese and freshly ground pepper. That’s it! Marco demonstrated how he makes the sauce by stirring the starchy water from the boiled pasta into the cheese to make a rich, creamy sauce. He then added the fresh pepper. The result was to die for!
Making Amatriciana
Making Cacio e pepe
Eating the Results
Following the demonstrations of how the pasta is combined with the two sauces to make Amatriciana and Cacio e pepe, we were invited into the adjacent dining room, complete with coffered, Renaissance style ceiling. I joined the table of Canadians and enjoyed pleasant conversation about travel and food while enjoying the fruits of the evening’s labors.
Amatriciana
Cacio e pepe
Conclusion
The three-hour cooking class (more like three and half by the time we finished eating) at InRome Cooking is a bargain at only €75 (price varies depending on which class you choose). Considering I enjoyed three delectable courses, learned a lot of valuable cooking tips and even got plenty of hands-on practice, I consider the fee very reasonable indeed.
Have you taken a cooking class in Rome? Share your experience in the comments below.
A three-day visit to Venice gives you a flavorful taste of this float-on-water, impossibly beautiful city.
I love Venice and go there as often as I can. In three days, you won’t see everything, but you’ll see a fair bit and, most importantly, you’ll whet your appetite (forgive the pun!) to return.
My suggestions for three days in Venice include plenty of time for slowing down and enjoying yourself. You can’t see everything, so don’t even try. Instead, focus on my suggested artsy highlights and still have plenty of energy left over for wandering.
Venice is probably the most “wanderable” city I’ve ever visited.
Definitely avoid popping into Venice for a day, or worse, an afternoon. It’s better not to visit at all than to end up jostled around Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) with thousands of other sweaty, rushed tourists. You’ll come away with a negative view of Venice, and that would be a terrible shame!
Why I Love Venice
Of all the cities I’ve been to, Venice is my favorite. The first time I visited, I couldn’t stop laughing for the first fifteen minutes of our ride on the vaporetto (water bus) from the train station along the Grand Canal to our hotel. I just couldn’t believe that such a place existed on Earth, that Venice was real.
But Venice is real, and Venice is special.
Quiet side canals glimmer in the luminous Adriatic light, buildings with exotic facades slowly sink into the mud, world-class museums and art galleries abound, peaceful piazzas and bustling piazzas beckon, gondolas glide and water taxis and water busses churn up and down the Grand Canal, and the music of Vivaldi wafts into the night air.
A quiet side canal in Venice
Can you tell that I adore Venice? Unfortunately, in the years before the pandemic, my favorite city was become horribly overcrowded. Massive cruise ships docked within sight of the Grand Canal and the cafés on the Piazza San Marco took rip-offs to a whole new level.
I wonder how things will change now that Venice is again starting to welcome back travelers. I personally hope that more regulations are put in place to handle the flow of visitors. I don’t mind paying a tourist tax to enjoy Venice (cafe rip-offs aside). We’ll see what the future holds!
When to Visit Venice
That said, go to Venice. Just be strategic about how and when you visit. Floods in winter are often a serious problem, and summers can be hot and crowded. I’ve stayed in Venice in both spring and autumn and recommend both seasons. You’ll still encounter crowds, but the weather will be bearable. Just bring lots of mosquito repellant!
A Three-Day Venice Itinerary
Here’s how I suggest you spend your time as an Artsy Traveler with two full days and three nights in Venice.
Day 1 in Venice
Arrival in Venice
Arrive around lunchtime and make your way to your hotel. If you’re driving, park in the Tronchetto Car Park. The rates are fairly reasonable and the car park has a station on the Venice People Mover, an automated tramway that takes you quickly into Venice.
People Mover station near Tronchetto Car Park in Venice
I wouldn’t waste time parking on the mainland. You’ll save a bit of money, but you’ll also waste a fair bit of time getting into Venice itself. Save your energy for sightseeing! Here’s a comprehensive overview of parking options in Venice.
If you’re taking the train, you’ll arrive at the train station and then, depending on where your hotel is located, hop on a vaporetto–the Venice version of a bus.
Getting Around Venice
The two main ways to get around Venice is by riding the vaporetto–a quintessentially Venetian experience–and walking. You could also take water taxis, but they are super expensive. I’ve only taken one once from our place near the Grand Canal back to the Tronchetto Car Park at the end of a week in Venice to attend one of Gregg’s art exhibitions. We had a large box of his paintings in addition to our luggage and did not want to wrangle everything on to and off of the people mover.
A sleek and stylish water taxi may be worth the splurge if you have lots of luggage
Sometimes, saving your legs and your sanity is worth the extra cost of a water taxi. But most of the time, you’ll get everywhere you need to go in Venice either by walking or by taking the vaporetto. Also, even when it’s packed to the gunnels, a ride on the vaporetto is fun!
Buy Tickets in Advance for the Vaporetto
A single ride on a vaporetto costs€7.5 Euros! That’s waterway robbery. Fortunately, you can buy a City Pass from the Venezia Unica website CityPass website that includes public transit and entrance to various Venice sites or you can just buy a transit pass for one, two, three, or seven days.
A vaporetto on the Grand Canal in Venice
I suggest buying the three-day pass and using it on Days 1, 2, and 3. On the morning of Day 4 when you’re making your way back to your car, either walk, depending on where you’re staying, or splash out for a single ticket. We bought a seven-day travel card for €60 each. Since our apartment was close to the Grand Canal, we used the vaporetto several times a day to get around and to travel to Burano and Murano. Buy the Venice Travel Card at the ticket-vending machines located at the largest vaporetto stops or online before you arrive (most convenient).
Areas to Stay in Venice
I suggest you stay in the Dosoduro area across the Grand Canal from Piazza San Marco or the area between the Rialto Bridge and the train station. I’ll talk more about hotels later. For now, drop your bags if your room isn’t ready and set out for your first stop.
Activities on Day 1 in Venice
Here’s what you’ll have time to do on your first afternoon and evening in Venice:
Visit the Peggy Guggenheim Museum
Walk to and cross the Rialto Bridge
Visit Piazza San Marco as the sun is setting and the crowds have thinned
Take a traghetto back across the Grand Canal
Dine at a small trattoria near your hotel
Here are the details!
Visit the Peggy Guggenheim Museum
I seriously love this museum. Located right on the Grand Canal and accessed from the Dosoduro district, the Peggy Guggenheim Museum is a must-see for modern art lovers. Peggy Guggenheim was quite the gal in her day. She knew just about every famous modern artist in Europe in the 1930s and 1940s and amassed an amazing collection of their art.
You’ll find works by Picasso, Kandinsky, Miró, Braque, Giacometti, Klee, Magritte, Dali, Pollock, de Chirico, Brancusi, Braque, Duchamp, and Mondrian.
The museum is located in Peggy’s renovated Venetian palazzo. Wander the cool halls to revel in the fabulous collection and then go outside to enjoy a stunning panoramic view of the Grand Canal. On your first day in Venice, this really is the place to come to get your first Venetian hit.
The Rialto Bridge is one of Venice’s most iconic sites and as such it is often heaving with tourists. Avoid crossing it during the day, but definitely cross it at least once or twice during your visit to Venice. Since it’s one of the very few bridges across the Grand Canal, you can’t miss it!
The Rialto Bridge over the Grand Canal is often very crowded
Visit Piazza San Marco
Take your time and wait until the sun is setting and the crowds have thinned, and then make your way to Piazza San Marco. Called the drawing room of Europe by Napoleon, the Piazza San Marco lives up to the hype, even when seething with tourists. But it’s better when it’s not too crowded.
Another option is to visit it very early in the morning (see my suggestions for Day 3) or late at night after dinner to really see and appreciate it.
In the evening, you can dance to the music coming from the posh cafés that line both sides of the piazza. Scare away a few pigeons and enjoy. I have occasionally splurged on a cup of coffee at one of the cafés (the prices are truly eye-watering), but the people-watching is worth the price and hey, you’re in Venice.
Piazza San Marco on a rainy evening
Take a Traghetto Back Across the Grand Canal
You have to ride a traghetto at least once while you’re in Venice. These fairly large and plain gondolas ferry people across the Grand Canal from various points. One option is to catch it from the Santa Sofia boat pier not far from Piazza San Marco and go across to the Rialto Fish Market. The ride is fast, cheap, and great fun. It’s not exactly a replacement for a “real” gondola ride, but it’s a great budget option, and at least you can say you rode in a gondola.
On the other hand, I do suggest you splurge on a gondola ride (see Day 3 suggestions).
Dine at a Small Trattoria
Check restaurant reviews and find a small restaurant near where you are staying. Avoid the more touristy restaurants at or near Piazza San Marco. My most memorable meal in Venice was at La Zucca, a small osteria on a side canal on the Dorsoduro side of the Grand Canal. Get reservations in advance (advisable everywhere in Venice) and enjoy!
Day 2 in Venice
On your first of two full days in Venice, use your morning energy for sightseeing (fewer crowds) and then spend the afternoon on Murano. Here’s what I suggest:
Visit the Accademia Gallery
Visit Murano for a glass-blowing demonstration and to shop for glass
Go to a concert of baroque music in the evening
Here are the details!
Activities on Day 2 in Venice
Visit the Accademia Gallery
You’ll find plenty of Renaissance and Baroque biggies in the Accademia in Venice (Gallerie Accademia). Works by such masters as Veronese, Tiepolo, Bellini, and Titian grace the walls of this very walkable and enjoyable museum. It’s not too big and in my experience isn’t usually that crowded.
That said, get tickets in advance to avoid line-ups, just in case. Check the gallery’s website for details.
Take the Vaporetto to Murano
Using your vaporetto pass, hop on the vaporetto for a trip across the lagoon to the lovely island of Murano. It’s quite a long voyage and the lagoon can be choppy. If you can, snag a seat outside to guard against seasickness.
Murano is the glass-blowing island and allegedly the best place to buy the distinctive Venetian blown glass. There are certainly plenty of shops there and the prices did seem to be a bit more reasonable than the prices at the tourist joints in Venice itself.
Enjoy a Glass-blowing Demonstration
Upon arival, head for a glass-blowing demonstration. It’s put on for the tourists, and our hand-scarred guy looked kind of bored as he dutifully blew, rotated, heated, and smashed a variety of glass ornaments. But I enjoyed the demonstration and recommend it to see how glass blowing is done.
Glass blowing is big business on the Venetian island of Murano
Browse the Shops
Make your way down some fairly nondescript streets to the main shopping street bisected with a small, straight canal arched over with several small bridges. On both sides of the canal, shop after shop after shop marched a good three blocks in both directions—each one crammed to the ceiling with glass.
Colorful main drag on the island of Murano
Storefront after storefront twinkles with heaps of glittering, glaring, glinting glass—swoopy vases and finely spun figures, paperweights, pendants, chandeliers, glasses, earrings, pitchers, plates, bowls, beads. Every store advertised that their glass is authentic, made on Murano, not in China like 80% of all the other glass for sale in Venice.
Enjoy Lunch Along the Canal in Murano
After shopping, enjoy a leisurely lunch at one of the canalside restaurants in Murano and then hop back on the vaporetto to return to Venice.
After your trip to Murano, either relax in or near your hotel for the afternoon or just keep wandering. Venice is endlessly fascinating. I love strolling alongside the canals, never knowing what’s around the next corner. Sometimes, I find a bustling street, at other times, nothing is moving except a cat stretching on a boat moored in the canal.
Gregg loved our visit to Murano and created several pieces inspired by glass blowing. Here’s my favorite (also featured in our collaboration Pastel & Pen: Travels in Europe):
“Murano” inspired by Murano blown glass by Gregg Simpson
Attend a Concert of Italian Baroque Music
A highlight of a trip to Venice is attending a concert of Italian baroque music. Vivaldi is the hometown boy here and you shouldn’t have much trouble finding a concert featuring his Four Seasons. by Italian baroque
One concert we attended was held in a baroque church with a ceiling painted by Tiepolo.
Look online for concert schedules and purchase tickets in advance if you can. Afterwards, float out into the warm Venetian evening (depending on the time of year!) and find another small trattoria for dinner.
Get Lost in Venice After Dark
And after dinner,keep wandering. Getting lost after dark in Venice is one of Europe’s best travel experiences. In fact, I put getting lost in Venice at the top of my list of must-do activities because first, getting lost is unavoidable (even with GPS on your phone), and second, you’ll never be lost for long.
Some of my fondest Venice memories are of strolling alongside dark canals in the evening (violent crime is very rare in Venice), not knowing if I was going in the right direction and not caring.
Sign pointing to San Marco in Venice
Venice is an island; you can’t fall off. With the world asleep and the crowds long gone, Venice at night is one of the most magical places on Earth. Walk until you come to one of the ubiquitous signs pointing to San Marco or Rialto or Ferrovia (train station) and get your bearings. You could also ask someone for directions, but chances are they’re tourists and also lost.
Day 3 in Venice
Get going bright and early to take in two of the most iconic sites of Venice, again before the crowds start to gather. Here’s an overview of Day 3:
Tour the Duomo and the Doge’s Palace
Wander and get lost some more
Take a gondola ride after dark
Activities on Day 3 in Venice
Tour the Duomo and Doge’s Palace
Both are crowded, and both are must-sees. Get your tickets ahead of time and go early or late. Several times I’ve bypassed long lines of hot and tired tourists waiting to get into the Doge’s Palace. Breeze past them with your pre-purchased ticket.
The sumptuous public rooms of the Doge’s Palace will show you just how powerful Venice was back in the day. A more sobering attraction are the dungeons reached by crossing the Bridge of Sighs, so called because prisoners who crossed it got their last glimpse of the world before being shut away and usually executed. Cheerful stuff.
Bridge of Sighs at night in Venice, Italy.
Leave Piazza San Marco before it gets too crowded and spend the afternoon wandering the back streets. Shop for souvenirs if you haven’t already bought your quota in Murano, relax at a sidewalk cafe in a small piazza, watch the people go by, and enjoy life.
What’s the hurry? You’re in Venice!
Take a Gondola Ride at Dusk
Yes, it’s expensive and kinda touristy but it’s also super romantic and relaxing. You’ll be taken into canals you may not have seen from the street, and if you’re lucky, you’ll hear a few gondoliers break into song. Occasionally, I’ve seen gondola traffic jams. To avoid them (not at all romantic!), go later.
Gondolas bobbing on the Grand Canal in Venice
At the time of writing, a daytime gondola ride costs 80 Euros for 40 minutes. After dark, the price rises to 100 euros, but in my opinion, going at night is the best. Six people fit in a gondola so you could share, depending on who you are with and whether romance is on the cards!
Here’s a selection of artsy sightseeing options in Venice with links to fast- track tickets.
Staying in Venice
Venice deserves at least three nights and preferably more so you can settle in and enjoy being a temporary Venetian. If time allows, rent an apartment and stay for a week.
My most cherished memories of Venice are the ten days we spent there in September 2015 while Gregg had an exhibition of his paintings in a gallery overlooking the Grand Canal.
Poster for exhibition of Gregg Simpson’s work in Venice
Paintings featured in the exhibition by Gregg Simpson
I spent hours just wandering the city, staying well clear of the heaving masses in Piazza San Marco and taking my time getting to know this most extraordinary city. For our apartment stay, we chose a place just off the Grand Canal about a five-minute walk from the train station. The neighborhood was quiet and close to a piazza that every evening spilled over with local Venetians enjoying the air and watching their children play.
If you have the time, rent an apartment in Venice and stay for a week. Live like a local, not that you’ll see many locals these days. Venetians are moving out of the city at an alarming rate. But at least you’ll experience shopping in tiny local grocery stores and get to know your way around a neighborhood.
As mentioned earlier, consider staying in the Dorsoduro district across the Grand Canal from the Piazza San Marco. I recommend you avoid the area immediately adjacent to Piazza San Marco. Hotels there can be expensive, and the tiny streets in the area are wall-to-wall tourists during the day.
Accommodation Suggestions
Here are suggestions for hotels that we have stayed in–one in the Dorsoduro and one near the Rialto Bridge.
Hotel Canaletto: We stayed there a few years ago and loved it. The rooms were small, but that’s par for the course in Venice. The location, just 200 meters from Rialto Bridge, was fantastic as was its situation on a charming side canal.
Hotel Messner is a more modest option, located in the Dorsoduro neighborhood close to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. It was quiet, and the area was peaceful and uncrowded, particularly at night.
For other options in Venice, check the map below. Resist the temptation to stay on the mainland. The savings will be minimal once you take into account train fares and your time. Stay in the middle of Venice and enjoy this unique city.
Include Venice in your trip to Italy if at all possible. With a bit of planning and some strategic dodging, you can easily avoid the crowds and find plenty of peaceful areas to enjoy. Venice is a city for dreaming. Give her time and she’ll reward you.
Looking to travel elsewhere in Italy? Here are some more posts to check out:
