Finding accommodation in Copenhagen can be challenging if you’re on a budget. But if you haveextra mo ney to spare (and you’ll need it in Copenhagen), then you can easily rent a stylish apartment in an iconic location.
Copenhagen is a wonderful city to stay in for at least a week. Not only is there a lot to see and do, but there’s also great pleasure to be had just being in the city and becoming a temporary Dane. Rent a bike or take a cycling tour, wander up and down the many pedestrian streets, stop for coffee and watch the world go by, and stroll along the harbor.
On my visit to Copenhagen in September 2022, we stayed in two places–an apartment for a week and a hotel for one night. Both were great, with the edge going to the apartment, which was hands down one of the nicest and most comfy apartments we’ve ever stayed in during our many years of traveling in Europe.
Copenhagen Accommodation in Nyhavn
We chose to spend our week in Copenhagen in Nyhavn, the lively harbor area full of iconic, colorful houses and tons of outdoor cafes. I loved this location and never got tired of walking up and down the harbor taking pictures of the houses in every light.
Captivating Nyhavn in early evening
We booked an apartment through booking.com that exceeded our expectations. It was a two-bedroom apartment located in one of the colorful houses right on the harbor. To access it, we walked through two courtyards and then rode an elevator to the fifth (top) floor.
Passageway leading from the harbor to our courtyard
Building in which our apartment was located
The apartment was very stylishly decorated and included a full kitchen and a very large dining area. We also had a lovely view over the rooftops of Copenhagen.
Living area
Looking from the living area toward the large dining area; kitchen is on the left
One of the two bedrooms in the apartment
Colorful rooftops of Copenhagen seen from the bedroom
The price was fairly reasonable considering the location. Copenhagen is not a cheap place to stay, so expect to pay in excess of $300 USD a night. I felt that the apartment was well worth the cost and can recommend it whole-heartedly if you’re planning to spend a week in Copenhagen.
Staying at Phoenix Copenhagen
We had an extra night to spend in Copenhagen as a result of a last-minute itinerary change. Our beloved apartment was no longer available, so we moved around the corner to the stylishly upscale Phoenix Copenhagen.
If you’re looking for a hotel in the Nyhavn area, the Phoenix is a fine choice. It’s pretty high end price-wise and the room was a trifle cramped, but the staff were friendly and as mentioned, the location on Bredgade can’t be beat. The marble lobby was gorgeous and the restaurant downstairs served hearty food, particularly welcome on the cold and rainy night we stayed.
Lobby at Phoenix Copenhagen
We particularly liked Phoenix Copenhagen because it was across the street from the gallery in which Gregg was exhibiting the “Color of Dreams.” Here’s a look at the exhibition at Galleri Bredgade 22:
Facade of Galleri Bredgade 22 in Copenhagen
“The Color of Dreams” Exhibition at Galleri Bredgade 22
Paintings in the exhibition
View from the street of the exhibition
Other Accommodation Options in Copenhagen
Here are other options for places to stay in Copenhagen. If possible, choose a location near the center of the city. The Nyhavn area is ideal because it is within walking distance of just about everything you’ll want to see in this lovely, compact city.
Every so often when traveling, serendipty rears its delightful head. The plans you’ve made go awry, but instead of facing disaster, you step into something even more wonderful.
That happened to us in October 2022 a few kilometers out of the fabled town of Montepulciano in Tuscany.
Read about our day leading up to finding Sant’Antonio Country Resort or cut to the chase and scroll down to my review!
Lead-Up to Montepulciano
In Rome, we woke up to the first rainy day of our time in Italy (we’d been in the country two weeks). The clanging at the building site next door to our apartment was slightly muted, much to our relief. After nine nights, it was time to leave the Eternal City. We were all packed and waiting at the door for our 10:30 Uber. Horrendous Rome traffic delayed him over half an hour, but when he finally arrived, Roberto was cheerful and helpful.
Thirty minutes later, he dropped us at the garage where we found the same smiling attendant and our car already out of its slot and waiting for us to drive it away. What a wonderful service. Shout-out to Parclick!
Arrival in Montepulciano
We made it out of Rome without even one wrong turn—perhaps a record for us! Soon, we were back on the Autostrade speeding north to Tuscany. Ah, Tuscany! It’s one of my favorite places in Europe which is why I set my first novel, The Towers of Tuscany, there. I’m working on two more novels set in Tuscany; perhaps on this trip I’d find more inspiration to finish them.
The beauty of the Tuscany landscape never gets old
After a smooth two-hour drive, we pulled up in front of our hotel for two nights—a lovely Albergo about five minutes outside Montepulciano. Neither of us had ever visited Montepulciano and so decided that on this trip we’d skip our usual visits to San Gimignano and Siena and see something new. Good call!
No Room at the Inn
Except we had a few more hoops to go through before the full Tuscan experience would wash over us.
The proprietor of the hotel looked puzzled when I give him my name. He searched his list, frowned, shook his head.
No, Signora.
Oh dear. I pulled out my phone and showed him my booking on booking.com and said in a somewhat aggrieved tone, We’ve definitely booked! See – October 13 to 15! A little shiver of doubt ran through me as I said this. Wasn’t today October 13?
He peered at my phone. Ah. That’s 2023, Signora.
Oh.
And of course the place was full.
Plan B
We piled back into the car and started driving toward a place he suggested. Within three minutes–Google Maps notwithstanding–we were lost. We’ve found that Google Maps doesn’t always work well in the Italian countryside, or in the cities for that matter.
Gregg pulled over and I consulted my phone to see what booking.com had to offer. Fortunately, several options popped up around Montepulciano. We wanted something outside the town in a country setting. Over the years, we’ve had our share of disasters when we’ve booked places within the medieval walls of an ancient town. If you’ve ever done so, you’ll know what I mean. And if you haven’t, trust me.
Never book a place inside the walls of a medieval city. Ever.
Success
After a few searches, I selected Sant’Antonio Country Resort. It ticked all the boxes–countryside, looked pretty, nice big rooms, mid-range price, and best of all, available. I booked it, paid for it, and entered the address in Google Maps. The suggested route took us around Montepulciano where a band of red showed traffic congestion. Another route, slower but seemingly more direct, took us across country in a straight line.
Throwing caution to the wind, I decided to ignore Google Maps and the nice GPS lady and directed Gregg along the other route.
On Our Way Again
Soon, we were bumping along dirt roads cleaving through vine-studded fields punctuated by deep green cypresses. In the distance, a row of pale blue Tuscan mountains floated in a smoky autumnal haze.
It wasthe Tuscany of our dreams. And fortunately, the road, although unpaved, was not undrivable and so at a leisurely and extremely scenic pace, we eventually arrived at a massive iron gate—the entrance to the grandly named Sant’Antonio Country Resort.
I wasn’t sure what to expect.
I pressed the intercom and we drove in. The owners were incredibly welcoming and friendly. They informed us that never in the history of their working with booking.com had anyone ever booked on the website on the same day they wanted to stay. Apparently, the system is designed to reject such bookings.
But for some unexplainable reason, a glitch in the system let us through. How fortuitous!
Heaven at Sant’Antonio Country Resort: My Review
Sant’Antonio Country Resort is everything we love about Tuscany. Here’s why:
Located out in the country but still within a short drive of an iconic hilltown, in this case, Montepulciano
Plenty of free parking and easy to drive to
Gorgeous self-contained units in a renovated medieval convent
Most units with terraces
A swimming pool and many outdoor areas on the grounds
Plenty of country walks and scenic drives nearby
Stunning vistas of olive trees and cypresses at every turn
Excellent reviews
Friendly and accommodating owners who speak English and genuinely love sharing their little piece of heaven with their guests
And at the Sant’Antonio Country Resort, there is even a friendly fox that likes to steal shoes. We were warned not to leave our shoes outside our door because the fox would take them. What the fox does with the shoes is a mystery, but we agreed not to find out.
Our Accommodation at Sant’Antonio Country Resort
The owners very kindly upgraded us to a two-bedroom apartment complete with very comfortable living room, a big dining room, a large bed in the master bedroom, a second smaller bedroom where we stashed the luggage, and two bathrooms.
Oh, and two terraces.
Here are a few photographs of the place.
Our two-bedroom apartment is on the ground floor
Comfortable living room and dining area
On a walk on the grounds of the resort
Beautiful spots for relaxing all over the property
Memorable Dinners in Montepulciano
After a few hours reveling in our good luck, we left around 5 pm for a drive up to Montepulciano which we discovered is a lovely, calm town, much less frenetic than other Tuscan towns such as San Gimignano.
The deal here is food and wine—lots of wine, particularly the vino nobile of Montepulciano. We stopped at a little bar and I sampled my first glass while Gregg had a cappuccino. With about an hour to kill before our dinner reservation (kindly made by our hosts at Sant’Antonio Country Resort), we climbed the cobbled streets to reach the piazza. It was nearly empty in the early evening. I imagine that during the day, the place is mobbed.
Carol in the Grande Piazza in Montepulciano
Sunset over Tuscany from MontepulcianoDarkness falls over Montepulciano
Dinner at Porta di Bacco was served in an ancient room replete with a column (is it Roman?) and brick arches. The wine and food were predictably excellent. I ordered gnocchi with a duck ragout—hearty and tasty. The food here is different from Rome – more country-style and a nice change from the usual fare offered in Roman trattorias, which can get a bit repetitive.
After a moonlit stroll back to the car, we faced the challenging drive in the dark back to Sant’Antonio Country Resort. A drive that in daylight is quick and easy took on a different tenor at night. We made a few wrong turns but eventually got back on track and were soon pulling into our temporary home.
The next night we dined at Ristorante La Grotta, outside the city walls. Located in a 16th-century building, the restaurant was directly opposite the Church of San Biagio, a noted example of Tuscan Renaissance architecture.
Getting settled at the Ristorante La Grotta
My dessert
Church of San Biagio with Montepulciano perched on the hill above
I highly recommend Ristorante La Grotta for a Tuscan splurge. The service was impeccable and the food excellent. It was the most expensive meal we had in nine weeks, but at 110 Euros for three gourmet courses and excellent wine, it was an amazing bargain!
Enjoying Sant’Antonio Country Resort
While at Sant’Antonio Country Resort, we met some fellow Canadians who shared that they’ve visited before, and love returning. I can’t say I blame them!
We spent our day “off” from traveling by taking walks around the property (it stretches for several hectares), enjoying a drive along small country roads in the area, and generally chilling out. We even saw the fox!
Gregg working on one of our two terraces
Swimming pool (too cold in October!)
Walkway to our suite
An outdoor dining area for guests
Beautiful vista of Tuscan countryside near Sant’Antonio Country Resort
Should You Visit Sant’Antonio Country Resort?
If you’re looking for a Tuscan retreat that is reasonably priced (albeit slightly on the high side, but worth it), set in a glorious landscape, and owned by very helpful and friendly hosts, then I can’t recommend Sant’Antonio Country Resort highly enough.
For other places in and around Montepulciano, click the map below.
Many years ago, I took a wine tour of Tuscany that included a visit to a vineyard near Montepulciano. If you have a day to spare while visiting Tuscany, I highly recommend booking a wine tour. Here are a few suggestions.
Other Posts about Tuscany
Over the past three decades, I’ve visited Tuscany at least a dozen times, and every time I discover new wonders to enjoy and fabulous places to stay. For more suggestions about Tuscany, check out these posts:
The Wilde Aparthotel at Covent Garden is the perfect place to stay on a short visit to London.
The price is reasonable (under $200 CDN a night when I booked, although this price may vary), the amenities and comforts are first rate, and the location unbelievable.
I’ve stayed in many places in London over the years, highlights being the ParkCity in Kensington and The Cavendish near Green Park, but never have I stayed in a place as fabulously located and appointed as Wilde Aparthotel, particularly if you, like me, are a theater nut.
Location, Location, Location
From the Wilde Aparthotel, you can walk to most West End theaters in under five minutes. Two of them are just across the street on the Strand.
After an evening at the theater, nothing kills the post-applause buzz like a long tube ride. I prefer to waltz no more than a few blocks along brightly lit streets thronged with other theatergoers. I especially appreciate the Wilde Aparthotel’s location when I am visiting London alone. Safety first, and for the solo traveler, the area feels very safe.
Value for Money at the Wilde Aparthotel
The Wilde Aparthotel, which is part of a chain owned by StayCity (their other property is at Paddington), has figured out how to provide visitors with a four-star experience in a five-star location at a price that won’t require them to mortgage their homes back home.
They cut corners on unnecessary stuff and spend money on things that directly contribute to customer comforts.
The two most obvious cuts are the lack of a lobby and breakfast service. A lobby is generally a waste of space and food is certainly not hard to come by in this part of London. Several coffee shops are within a five-minute walk of the hotel.
Arriving at the Wilde Aparthotel
Guests walk into a narrow entranceway and go immediately up the elevator to their rooms. Everything is sleek, modern and kind of quirky, befitting a hotel named after Oscar Wilde.
According to a plaque at the entrance, the hotel was opened by Oscar Wilde’s grandson. How cool is that!
An attendant is on duty each time I enter the hotel, always greeting me warmly and asking me if I need anything. Every staff member I encounter during my stay at the Wilde Aparthotel is friendly and professional. I feel like they really want me to have a good stay.
Room Features
My room is pretty tiny, but it has everything I can possibly need including a full kitchen, a desk, a fabulous rainforest shower, a large TV and a very comfy bed. Okay, I have to crawl across the bed and navigate around a million pillows to get to the window so I can open and close the curtains, but that’s not much of an inconvenience.
The room would be small for two people, but it is perfect for one.
My very comfortable bed at the Wilde Aparthotel in Covent Garden
Free Stuff
The fridge is stocked with free glass bottles of water (with more available whenever needed) and snacks. Yes, you read that right–free.
Unlike every other hotel I’ve ever stayed in, the Wilde Aparthotel does not charge for the contents of the minibar. Gone is the feverish scanning of price lists at 3 am, recoiling at the eye-watering prices and then having to make the agonizing choice between eating dinner the next day and slaking your thirst.
Instead, I pluck a cold, recyclable glass bottle of water and happily chug it down, secure in the knowledge that I can have another…and another.
Kitchen area in the room at the Wilde Aparthotel in Covent Garden
Room Layout
The space is thoughtfully arranged with lots of little touches like fragrant shampoos and lotions in large refillable bottles, a sturdy umbrella which I needed on Day 2, fluffy towels, and good lighting. Really, it can’t be more perfect.
Back in the day, most affordable accommodation in London consisted of dreary bed-and-breakfasts with bathrooms down the hall, thin towels, lumpy beds, and hideous wallpaper reminiscent of Oscar Wilde’s last words on Earth.
Either that wallpaper goes or I do.
And he did.
What’s Close to the Wilde Aparthotel?
The Wilde Aparthotel is located on Adams Street just around the corner from the Strand. It’s no more than a five-minute walk from Trafalgar Square, the Thames, and Covent Garden.
Busses ply the Strand constantly to get to wherever you need to go in minutes. For my entire two-and-a-bit days in London, I never needed to take the Underground.
Numerous coffee shops and restaurants are very close by. On my first night, I enjoy a wonderful plate of fettucine and smoked salmon at Uvilo, an Italian place directly across the Strand from the hotel.
Fettuccine with smoked salmon – fabulous!
The portion is huge so I pack up the leftovers to store in my fridge. The small kitchen is equipped with a microwave and stove so the next day I’m able to heat up the leftovers for lunch. I’ve never had access to kitchen facilities in a London hotel.
I will definitely stay at the Wilde Aparthotel again and can recommend it unreservedly.
You’re in luck when it comes to finding great places to stay in France. In fact, some of our most memorable stays in Europe have been in family-run, country-style hotels in France.
In this post, I provide general tips about accommodations in France and then list hotels I recommend.
Choosing a Room
To Book or Not to Book?
I favor a combination approach to booking hotels in France. Generally, I book most of the hotels on my itinerary before I leave home, and then while traveling, I make adjustments as needed. I like the security of knowing that I have a place to stay, but I also take advantage of cancellation options to ensure I can always change my mind.
To stay flexible, choose a hotel booking site that allows you to book, change, or cancel hotel reservations if your itinerary changes. Most sites offer a no-cancellation option at a lower price.
TIP: Stay flexible when you travel. You never know when you might meet someone who recommends a festival or event or exhibition. More than once, I’ve altered an itinerary to attend a special exhibition or visit a new attraction.
I never choose the no-cancellation price unless I’m 100% sure I’ll be staying at the hotel. For example, I will select the no-cancellation price for hotels I’m staying at in the cities I fly into and depart from because I know those locations won’t change.
Breakfasts in French Hotels
Breakfasts in France are generally of the continental variety and include croissants (both regular and chocolate-filled), fresh baguettes with wonderful butter and lots of jams and marmalades, and coffee. You may also find fresh fruit, dry cereal, cold meats, and cheeses. In large hotels, cooked options may be available.
In our experience, most breakfasts in small country hotels in France are continental breakfasts that are either included in the room price or are generally not too expensive.
If hotel breakfasts cost too much extra, I buy yogurt and fruit at a local grocery store and then go to a bar or café for my morning café au lait.
Recommended Locations
In France, I favor hotels on the outskirts of cities or in the countryside if we’re driving. I check the map showing the location of hotels and choose one that is outside town walls but within walking distance of the center of town.
I don’t recommend driving into Paris. We’ve done so several times, and it’s challenging, to say the least!
Traffic in Paris–not for the faint of heart!
Star Rating
I favor three- or four-star properties in France that offer amenities such as elevators, air conditioning, parking, bathtubs, pools, and WIFI.
I also like larger rooms. Check the square meterage of the room. Anything under 15 square meters is too small for two people with luggage. I do my best to book rooms that are at least 20 square meters.
Reviews – Should You Care?
I recommend that you pay attention to reviews. If a property’s aggregate review is under 8.0 out of a possible 10, consider taking a pass. Sometimes, the difference between a property with a 9.6 review and one with an 8.2 review is only a few euros, and yet the quality of the higher-rated property makes the extra money worth spending.
You have to take reviews with a grain of salt, however. Just because a property has a score of 9.8 doesn’t meant it’s five-star luxury. A 9.8 score for a two-star hotel is not the same as a 9.8 for a four-star.
TIP: Read reviews on a few sites, such as booking.com and TripAdvisor. I take my time when booking accommodations in France and elsewhere to make sure I’m getting the best value for my travel dollar.
For each destination, I describe properties I’ve stayed in. Click the link to the hotel to make a reservation with booking.com.
Places to Stay in Paris
When you’re in Paris, you won’t want to stay outside the périphérique in what are pretty dull suburban areas. The périphérique is the multi-lane ring road that circles Paris. Mammoth traffic jams are not uncommon on the périphérique –we’ve experienced a few!
To avoid driving into Paris, we’ve occasionally stayed at a hotel near one of the portes on the périphérique. However, I don’t recommend doing so. The surrounding area can be quite dreary, and you’ll need to take a long Metro ride into the center.
If you’re driving, consider organizing your trip so that you either start or end in Paris. That way, you can be car-free in the city and stay at a place in an interesting and central area, such as the Marais or my favorite, Montparnasse, on the Left Bank.
Recommended Neighborhoods in Paris
We visit Paris frequently and usually stay either in apartments or hotels on the Left Bank. The Montparnasse area is far enough from the tourist crowds and the throat-tightening prices of Saint Germain but still within walking distance, or a short Metro ride, of the Seine.
Montparnasse these days isn’t the bohemian, majorly hip place it was between the World Wars when everyone who was anyone—from Hemingway to Picasso to the newly formed surrealist group— hung out there. However, it still has plenty of good restaurants (La Coupole, Le Dôme) with appropriately snooty waiters (I adore watching Parisian waiters work!) and amazing seafood.
Here are my accommodation picks for Paris, all of which we’ve stayed in.
Hôtel de L’Université on the Left Bank near Saint-Germain-des-Prés is lovely with spacious rooms and an awesome location just blocks from the Seine and the hip part of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. We will definitely stay there again.
Hôtel Le Chaplain in Montparnasse is a reasonably-priced budget option located near the Vavin Metro stop.
Hôtel A La Villa des Artistes is the first hotel we stayed in as a family. Located in Montparnasse on the same street as the Hôtel Le Chaplain and close to the Vavin Metro, the hotel is also a short walk to the Luxembourg Gardens where our daughter spent many happy hours in a smartly designed playground.
Hôtel Le Clos Médicis has a great location about a block from the Luxembourg Gardens near the Boulevard Saint Michel. The rooms are pricey and tiny but very well-appointed and comfortable.
Medici fountain in the Luxembourg Garden near the Hôtel Le Clos Médici
We’ve stayed in a few more hotels that don’t warrant a recommendation. Paris has its share of overpriced and underwhelming places. Take your time finding a place and be aware that you may need to adjust your budget upwards to get a comfortable room in a good location.
As mentioned, we usually stay in apartments. Good options are available on HomeAway and booking.com.
I recommend basing yourself in Honfleur and from there exploring the World War II beaches at Normandy, the charming town of Bayeux with its historic tapestry, and the soaring cliffs of Étretat.
Honfleur has several good choices, including the Hotel L’Ecrin where we stayed. The hotel includes free parking and is within easy walking distance of the Vieux Bassin.
We love traveling in Brittany! Over the years, we’ve visited a few times and have always found excellent, country-style accommodations.
Here are three hotels that I’m happy to recommend:
Trébeurden and Trégastel on the Côte de Granit Rose
Both Trébeurden and Trégastel are great choices if you want to spend time exploring the gorgeous Côte de granit rose (Pink Granite Coast). Both of these hotels are excellent options:
Trébeurden: Hôtel Le Toeno offers simple and comfortable accommodation with terraces that overlook the ocean.
Trégastel: Le Beauséjour also features sea views in addition to an excellent restaurant. Our room had a very fancy spa bath with more jet settings than I’ve ever seen.
View of the Côte de Granit Rose near Trégastel in Brittany
Pont Aven
Spend some time in lovely little Pont Aven where Gauguin was inspired to paint some of his most memorable works.
We stayed at Le Domain de Pont Aven Art Gallery Resort–quite a posh place that was worth the cost. Set in beautiful grounds and within walking distance of Pont Aven, the resort is a good choice for a splurge.
Places to Stay in Provence and the Côte d’Azur
Provence and the stunning Côte d’Azur are, hands down, my favorite areas of France. Well, why not? Provence has it all–fields of lavender and sunflowers under brittle blue skies, swims in the warm Mediterranean, excellent meals enjoyed al fresco, and that special light that has inspired artists for centuries.
Pretty much every time we’ve traveled to Europe in the past several years, we’ve squeezed in at least a few days in the south of France. In 2021, we plan to settle into a place near the Mediterranean for three months.
Here, I’ll describe some of the places we’ve stayed in Provence. Areas include van Gogh country around Les Baux-des-Provence on the western edge of Provence, the charming towns of Roussillon and Gordes in the Luberon area, the relatively undiscovered Var region, and finally, the fabled Côte d’Azur.
Les Baux-des-Provence in Van Gogh Country
By van Gogh country, I mean Arles and the surrounding areas where Vincent van Gogh painted during the few years he lived in the region. Because we always have a car in Provence, we book places in the countryside in this area rather than within the Arles city limits or in difficult-to-navigate Les Baux-des-Provence.
Les Baux-des-Provence is close to both recommended properties
But if you’re not driving, find a hotel in Arles so you can enjoy wandering this delightful city in the warm, Provençal evening.
Here are two places I highly recommend, both in the countryside near Les Baux-des-Provence:
Du Côté Des Olivades is outside the small town of Paradou, but it’s in the vicinity of Les Baux-des-Provence. This place is Provence with a capital P, with plenty of 4-star luxury and a gorgeous country setting. We walked from here to nearby Paradou where we enjoyed one of our favorite meals in Provence (which is saying something!).
On our most recent trip to the area, we stayed in Domaine du Mas Foucray in a rural setting near the small town of Maussane-les-Alpilles and within sight of Les-Baux-de-Provence. Billed as an aparthotel, the one-bedroom suites include a kitchen and sitting area and a private terrace. In early July when we were there, we picked fresh apricots off the trees.
I took this video on the grounds of the property. If you’re looking for a relaxing, Provençal experience without the hefty price tag of some of the properties in the area, then you can’t go wrong with the Domaine du Mas Foucray.
Domaine du Mas Foucray near Les Baux-de-Provence
Luberon Area (Vaucluse)
On one of our first family trips to Europe when our daughter was nine years old, we rented a house for two weeks in the hill town of Saignon, located near Apt in the Vaucluse region of the Luberon.
With lavender season in full swing and beautiful vistas everywhere we looked, not to mention warm summer days and lots to see, we fell in love with the area.
Saignon in the Luberon in Provence where we stayed for two weeks
Pick one of the gorgeous little towns and settle in for as many days as you can manage. We’ve home-based in Bonnieux, Roussillon, and Gordes. Other good options are Menerbes (where A Year in Provenceby Peter Mayle is set), Lacoste, and tiny Saignon with its ruined fortress and sweeping views.
One of our favorite family-run, country-style hotels is Les Sables d’Ocre in Roussillon. The place is also one of the two French properties I include in 10 Family-Run Hotels in Europe I Recommend.
Here are two highly recommended hotels in the Luberon, one in Roussillon and one in Gordes.
Les Sables d’Ocre – A 15-minute walk from the village of Roussillon, this place sets the bar for what a country-style, family-run, low-key, easy-on-the-budget place should be. Book one of the rooms that includes a terrace. You’ll have your own private outdoor space and be steps from the pool.
Domain de l’Enclos – This place close to Gordes–one of the most beautiful hill towns in the area–is wonderful. We snagged a room with a terrace which Gregg made use of to do some drawing. The views from the garden over the Luberon are spectacular.
Gregg drawing on the terrace at the Domaine de l’Enclos near Gordes, Provence
The Var
If you’re driving from Aix-en-Provence to the Côte d’Azur, you pass through the spectacular–and relatively undiscovered–region of the Var. We’ve stayed in the Var a few times while Gregg had exhibitions at the gorgeous little village of Seillans, a hill town not far from Fayence, one of the principal towns in the area.
Here are two recommended properties in the area around Seillans.
Hôtel Restaurant des Deux Rocs – Situated at the edge of Seillans and including a lovely restaurant with a terrace overlooking the view, this place is a great choice if you want to stay in the village of Seillans.
La Bastide de Negrin – This place is a good example of a typical small bed and breakfast in the area, with comfortable rooms and of course, a pool. Each of the four rooms is named after a different artist: Matisse, Picasso, Renoir, and Cezanne.
Saint-Paul-de-Vence and Vence
This area of the Côte d’Azur is one of our favorites, particularly the town of Vence. You’ll find plenty of gorgeous properties in the area. Here are three that we’ve stayed in.
La Petite Maison: This two-story apartment has a spectacular view over Saint-Paul-de-Vence and the Mediterranean beyond. You are also within easy walking distance of the village.
Gregg surveying Saint Paul-de-Vence from the terrace of Le Petite Maison
Hôtel Marc Hély: We enjoyed a room with a view over Saint Paul-de-Vence and a tasty breakfast in the courtyard. This is a great choice in La Colle-sur-Loup, which is about a ten-minute drive from the Fondation Maeght.
Wine on the balcony at the Hôtel Marc-Hély
Miramar: This hotel is in Vence, which is just up the hill from Saint-Paul-de-Vence and a larger town with more services. FYI, we had the best pizza in an outdoor café in the Old Town of Vence! The Miramar is a reasonably-priced and well-located property that is great for drivers.
Port Palace Hotel in Monte Carlo – On a recent trip to the Riviera, we arrived at the house we’d rented through HomeAway for three days high above Monte Carlo to find no one there. A quick call to the HomeAway folks confirmed that our reservation had never been confirmed, despite emails to the contrary. What to do? Fortunately, HomeAway responded to our predicament by booking us into the Port Palace right on the harbor in Monte Carlo. The first night was comped, but we loved the place so much that we stayed for another two nights. Although a bit on the pricey side, the massive room and the harbor view along with fabulous breakfasts and really friendly staff made our stay at the Port Palace once of our most memorable in France.
Hôtel de l’Esterel in Agay overlooking the Mediterranean and not far from Saint Raphael is located right smack in the middle of a Pierre-en-Vacances, otherwise known as a holiday village. From our room we overlooked one of the largest hotel pools I’ve ever seen. The holiday village was hopping with French families and included several restaurants, a row of shops, and numerous activities.
Massive pools at the Holiday Village where the Hôtel de l’Esterel is located
Places to Stay in Dordogne and Languedoc
Like Provence, both Languedoc and the Dordogne have many gorgeous properties set in idyllic countryside. Here are two in the Dordogne and one in Albi in Languedoc that we’ve stayed in and recommend.
Château le Tour is a fabulous choice in the middle of the countryside east of Bergerac and near the tiny village of Faux. We stayed for several days and enjoyed evening meals served outside to all the guests, swims in the infinity pool, and lots of lounging around the grounds. If you want a country experience in the Dordogne and you’re touring France by car, you can’t go wrong at this place.
Château de Tour in the Dordogne region of France
The Hôtel Archambeau in the tiny village of Thonac not far from Montignac is another great country-style choice. Take a walk around the village and out into the bucolic countryside.
We recently visited Albi in Languedoc for the first time and were very much taken with it. La Cabane Albigeoise is a self-contained, two-floor minihouse located in a large garden above the river and right across from the iconic Albi Cathedral. Here’s the view from the terrace.
View of Albi Cathedral from La Cabane Albigeoise
Conclusion
Do you have recommendations for great places to stay in France? Please share your experience with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments section below.
Once you’ve secured your accommodations, check out what there is to see in the places your visiting. Here are some posts to help you choose:
We’ve found accommodations in Germany to be clean and reasonably priced. But not always comfortable. Get used to single duvets on double beds! For reasons we don’t understand, each person gets their own duvet, and double beds are often two single beds pushed together.
In this post, I provide general tips about accommodations in Germany and then list hotels I recommend.
Choosing a Room
To Book or Not to Book?
I book almost all the hotels on my itinerary before I leave home so I know I have somewhere to stay in every location. Then, while traveling, I sometimes alter bookings to follow a new route or in response to hearing about a cool location I hadn’t known about.
TIP: Stay flexible when you travel. You never know when you might meet someone who recommends a festival or event or exhibition. More than once, I’ve altered an itinerary to attend a special exhibition or visit a new attraction.
Choose a hotel booking site that allows you to book, change, or cancel hotel reservations if your itinerary changes. Most sites offer a no-cancellation option at a lower price. I never choose the no-cancellation price unless I’m 100% sure I’ll be staying at the hotel. For example, I’ll select the no-cancellation price for hotels I’m staying at in the cities I fly into and depart from, because those locations won’t change.
But overall, stay flexible. I’ve learned that sticking to a rigid itinerary with no-cancellation accommodations can end up costing a lot more money than you save.
Breakfasts in Germany
In addition to the usual fruits, cereals, and eggs, hotel breakfasts in Germany always include meat, cheese, and a great selection of breads and pastries.
The abundance and quality of some of the buffet breakfasts I’ve seen in Germany defies belief and stomach capacity. Usually, I opt for the hotel breakfast only if it’s included in the room rate.
Breakfast with bread, buns, croissants, coffee, and juice
Star Rating
I favor three- or four-star properties that offer amenities I value, such as elevators, air conditioning, parking, bathtubs, and in-room WIFI.
I also like larger rooms. Check the square meterage of the room. Anything under 15 square meters will be very small, with a child-sized shower stall and barely enough room to wedge your suitcase against the wall.
Reviews – Should You Care?
Yes, I pay attention to reviews. If a property’s aggregate review score is under 8.0 out of a possible 10, I usually pass. Sometimes the difference between a property with a 9.6 review and one with an 8.2 review is only a few euros, and yet the quality of the higher-rated property is worth the extra money.
You have to take reviews with a grain of salt, however. Just because a property has a score of 9.8 doesn’t meant it’s five-star luxury. Check the star rating and realize that a 9.8 score for a two-star hotel is not the same as a 9.8 for a four-star, and proceed accordingly.
TIP: Read reviews on a few sites, such as booking.com and TripAdvisor. I take my time when booking accommodations in Germany and elsewhere to make sure I’m getting the best value for my travel dollar.
To help you plan your travels in Germany, here are my recommendations. I describe properties I’ve stayed in and provide a map of some destinations to help you choose additional properties.
Click the link to the hotel to make a reservation with booking.com.
Berlin
During our recent week in Berlin, we rented an apartment in the Kreuzberg area. While relatively central and close to a U-Bahn stop, I didn’t find the area as interesting as the Prenzlauer Berg in northern Berlin.
I suggest looking for a small hotel in Prenzlauer Berg or in the Mitte (the historic core). Apartments can be a good choice if you’re staying for several days.
The map below shows accommodation options in Berlin.
We stayed close to the river in the area of Cologne that was rebuilt in the old style. I wholeheartedly recommend the Hotel Drei Kronen, a comfortable three-star property. From our room, we enjoyed a panoramic view over the Rhine.
Area near the Hotel Drei Kronen in Cologne
Have a look at the map below for additional accommodation suggestions in Cologne. I recommend staying by the river.
In St. Goar, I recommend the Hotel Rheinfels, which overlooks the river. The room was large and comfortable, the breakfast excellent, and the proprietor very friendly.
Trier
In Trier, we stayed at the Hotel Estricher Hof on the outskirts of the city and overlooking the Mosel River. We were driving and didn’t want to navigate the narrow streets of the city.
As it turned out, we drove into Trier for the evening with no problems, so consider a hotel in Trier proper so you can walk to the various sights.
The Hotel Estricher Hof was adequate but nothing special.
We stayed one night in Nuremberg at the TIPTOP Hotel Burgschmiet Garni , located outside the city walls. The room was tiny and the parking tight, but the breakfast was incredible!
If you’re not driving, consider something more quaint and interesting inside the city walls. Nuremberg is a pretty town with lovely views over the river and its fair share of half-timbered houses.
In Leipzig, we splurged on the Radisson Blu Hotel Leipzig, located across the road from the Gewandhaus concert hall where we attended a Chopin piano concert (sublime!). The hotel was close to the center of Leipzig and easy to drive to.
Our room was enormous, with great views over the city. Usually, we don’t choose chain hotels, but the Radisson was comfortable and stylish.
In Munich, we scored an excellent deal at the Hilton Munich Park. Sometimes, you can find surprisingly reasonable rates at Hilton properties. I’m not sure why.
We enjoyed a large room that overlooked the English Garden. The hotel is a 14-minute tram ride from the Marienplatz and includes an indoor pool and possibly the largest breakfast buffet I’ve ever seen in Europe.
Do you have accommodation recommendations to share? Please let me know in the Comments section. I’m always on the lookout for new places to stay in Germany.
I’ve had great luck finding marvelous places to stay in Spain. Hotel proprietors are friendly, and almost all of them speak English. In this post, I provide general tips about accommodations in Spain and then list hotels I recommend.
Choosing a Room
To Book or Not to Book?
I book almost all the hotels on my itinerary before I leave home so I know I have somewhere to stay in every location. Then, while traveling, I sometimes change bookings to follow a new route or in response to hearing about a cool location I hadn’t known about.
TIP: Stay flexible when you travel. You never know when you might meet someone who recommends a festival or event or exhibition. More than once, I’ve altered an itinerary to attend a special exhibition or visit a new attraction.
Choose a hotel booking site that allows you to book, change, or cancel hotel reservations if your itinerary changes. Most sites offer a no-cancellation option at a lower price. I never choose the no-cancellation price unless I’m 100% sure I’ll be staying at the hotel. For example, I will select the no-cancellation price for hotels I’m staying at in the cities I fly into and depart from, because I know those locations won’t change.
But overall, stay flexible. I’ve learned that sticking to a rigid itinerary with no-cancellation accommodations can end up costing more money than you save.
Breakfasts
Breakfasts in Spain generally consist of pastries, fresh fruit, dry cereal, cold meats (lots of ham and salamis), cheeses, and coffee. I only eat the hotel breakfast if it’s included in the room rate or if I didn’t get a chance to buy food before checking in.
If hotel breakfasts cost extra (and the cost can be exorbitant), I buy yogurt and fruit at a local grocery store and then go to a bar or café for my morning cappuccino.
Location
In Spain in particular, I stay in the center of a town or city only if I’m not driving. As I’ve mentioned frequently, driving into medieval towns can be a nightmare, and driving into cities like Barcelona is not recommended!
The advantage of traveling in Spain by public transit is that you can choose to stay in picturesque and historic town centers. Grab a taxi from the train station and let your driver negotiate the tiny alleyways. In Cordoba, even our taxi driver had a hard time finding our hotel deep in the Jewish quarter.
Tips for Drivers in Spain
When driving in Spain, I book places on the outskirts of the town or city and then take busses or taxis into the townfor sightseeing. In rural areas, such as Andalusia and Asturias, I search out places located in the gorgeous countryside so I can take walks and, if it’s hot, enjoy a dip in the pool.
Paradors
Consider spending at least a few nights of your vacation at one of Spain’s gorgeous paradors (paradores). A parador is a government-run property selected for its historical and artistic merit or for its location in a beautiful landscape. Over 90 paradors are located throughout Spain.
Some of the paradors are converted palaces, medieval castles, or other historic buildings. The parador experience can be pricey, but it’s definitely worthwhile and interesting. Check the official website to view all the properties available. You can book paradors through the website or on booking.com
Parador de Cuenca in Cuenca, east of Madrid, is located in an ancient monastery.
Star Rating
I favor three- or four-star properties that offer amenities such as elevators, air conditioning, parking, bathtubs, and WIFI.
I also like larger rooms. Check the square meterage of the room. Anything under 15 square meters will be small, with a child-sized shower stall and barely enough room to wedge your suitcase against the wall.
Reviews – Should You Care?
Yes, I pay attention to reviews. If a property’s aggregate review is under 8.0 out of a possible 10, I usually pass. Sometimes the difference between a property with a 9.6 review and one with an 8.2 review is only a few euros, and yet the quality of the higher-rated property makes the extra money worth spending.
You have to take reviews with a grain of salt, however. Just because a property has a score of 9.8 doesn’t meant it’s five-star luxury. Check the star rating, remember that a 9.8 score for a two-star hotel is not the same as a 9.8 for a four-star, and proceed accordingly.
TIP: Read reviews on a few sites, such as booking.com and TripAdvisor. I take my time when booking accommodations in Spain and elsewhere to make sure I’m getting the best value for my travel dollar.
To help you plan your Spain getaway, here are my recommendations. For each destination, I describe properties I’ve stayed in and offer suggestions for alternate properties that look good.
Click the link to the hotel to make a reservation with booking.com.
Barcelona
Barcelona is not a budget town by any stretch. Be prepared to spend more than you might like to; fortunately, in my experience, the quality of the accommodations is high.
I recommend two excellent hotels in Barcelona. Both are centrally located and comfortable. The Hotel Emilia is a bit farther from the center of the action, and the rooms are spacious.
The Cram Hotel in the Eixample district has earned a soft spot in my heart, for obvious reasons. It was a splurge, but the rooftop pool, views over Barcelona, and the convenient location made the extra cost well worth it, particularly because I was traveling solo.
Check the map below for other accommodation options in Barcelona. I favor the upscale Eixample district, but you’ll also find good choices in the Barri Gòtic and other areas.
The Hotel Virxe da Cerca by Pousadas de Compostela was a marvelous find in Santiago de Compostela. We stayed almost a week when Gregg has his exhibition at the Granell Museum. The hotel is next to the Plaza de Abastos market and an easy walk to the cathedral in the old town. I loved hanging out on the terrace, sipping wine and enjoying the view. The rooms were traditional, with heavy furniture and lots of space. Highly recommended!
Santiago de Compostela attracts thousands of visitors every year, so you’ll find plenty of accommodation options. Santiago de Compostela also has a parador that looks amazing if you’re in the mood for a splurge.
Have a look at the map below for additional accommodation suggestions.
We stayed at the Don Paco Hotel, a three-star property set in a restored convent dating from the 17th century. The high-ceilinged dining room that had once been the convent chapel is magnificent! The hotel is within walking distance of central Llanes and includes free parking (always a bonus!).
Bilbao
We enjoyed staying for one night at the Hotel Meliá, a posh splurge but perfectly located for walking along the river to the Guggenheim Bilbao and easy to get to from the highway. The hotel includes an underground parking lot, stylish rooms with a great view over Bilbao, a soaring lobby, and a riverside terrace where we ate breakfast and lunch.
San Sebastian
The Hotel Mercure Monte Igueldo, high atop Mount Igueldo overlooking enchanting San Sebastian (Donostia), is well worth a few extra euros for the view alone. You’ll need a car to stay here and to go down into San Sebastian.
If you’re traveling without a car, here are other options:
Book a place in the Old Town, even if it means leaving your car in a carpark and walking. You’ll be steps from the Cathedral-Mosque and in the thick of history. We stayed in a boutique hotel with a tranquil inner courtyard.
Check the map below to find properties in the center of Cordoba.
I heartily recommend Suites Gran Via in Granada. The location is convenient to the center of Granada, and the rooms are large and comfortable. A small kitchen is included, which is handy for making breakfast.
The map below shows more options in and around Granada.
We’ve had great luck in Seville–once staying at a hotel in the old town and most recently staying in an apartment overlooking the river. I recommend you stay in the old town if you’re not driving. The Hotel Amadeus & La Musica is a wonderful choice right in the heart of Old Seville. There’s a rooftop terrace with a stunning view of Seville Cathedral. Gregg spent quite a bit of time up there drawing.
On our 2019 trip, we were driving, so we booked a hotel across the river from downtown Seville. What a great choice! We parked in a public parking lot about half a block from the apartment and enjoyed a spectacular view of the river and Seville Cathedral in the distance. Check out Betis 7 Luxury Apartments. The cost was surprisingly reasonable for an apartment that included a bedroom, kitchen and living room, a jacuzzi bath, and glorious air conditioning (a necessity in July).
One of the hippest places to stay in Ronda is the Parador de Ronda, pictured at the top of this page. Its spectacular location at the edge of the Ronda gorge comes at a price–but what a splurge!
On our recent trip in 2019, we opted to stay in the countryside about a 15-minute drive from Ronda, and we’re glad we did. The weather was hot, and we needed a place to chill in. The Hotel Cortijo-las-Piletas perfectly fit the bill. They even provided an excellent dinner served in the courtyard on one of the evenings we were there. The proprietor was exceedingly friendly and accommodating. I can’t recommend this place highly enough.
Following are suggestions for hotels in Madrid, Toledo, Zaragoza, and Salamanca.
Madrid
The Suites Viena were spacious and well located near the Plaza España that featured lots of cool booths filled with jewelry and other gift items. I recommend the hotel. Here are other options in Madrid:
The Abad Toledo at the base of the hill and very convenient to a massive multi-level car park is a great choice for drivers. If you arrive by train, choose a place in the Old Town that you can get to by taxi.
On the map below, choose places on the city side of the river.
The NH Collection Gran Hotel Zaragoza is a comfortable business hotel in Sangallo Palace that includes balconies, views, and what looks like a lovely ambiance near Perugia.
Salamanca
Treat yourself to the Parador in Salamanca. The rooms are large, the pool inviting, and views over Salamanca breathtaking. The Parador is a great choice for drivers because it’s on the outskirts of the city. You can walk into Salamanca or take a bus or taxi.
Share Your Best Picks in Spain!
Do you have accommodation recommendations to share? Please let me know in the Comments section. I’m always on the lookout for new places to stay in Spain.
I’ve had great luck finding marvelous places to stay in Italy. Hotel proprietors are friendly, and these days almost all of them speak English. In this post, I provide general tips about accommodations in Italy and list hotels I recommend.
Choosing a Room
To Book or Not to Book?
I book almost all the hotels on my itinerary before I leave home so I know I’ll have places to stay in every location. While traveling, I sometimes change bookings to follow a new route or in response to hearing about a cool location I hadn’t known about.
TIP: Stay flexible when you travel. You never know when you might meet someone who recommends a festival or event or exhibition. More than once, I’ve altered an itinerary to attend a special exhibition or visit a new attraction.
Choose a hotel booking site that allows you to book and then cancel hotel reservations as your itinerary changes. Most sites offer you a no-cancellation option at a lower price. I never choose the no-cancellation price unless I’m 100% sure I’ll be staying at the hotel. For example, I’ll select the no-cancellation price for hotels I’m staying at in the cities I fly into and depart from because I know those locations won’t change.
But overall, stay flexible. I’ve learned from experience that sticking to a rigid itinerary with no-cancellation accommodations can end up costing you more money than you save.
Breakfasts – Prima Colazione
Breakfasts in Italy usually consist of scrumptious pastries, fresh fruit, dry cereal, cold meats and cheeses, and coffee. I only eat the hotel breakfast if it’s included in the room rate or if I didn’t get a chance to buy food before checking in.
Buffet breakfast at an Italian hotel
If hotel breakfasts cost extra (and the cost can be exorbitant), I buy yogurt and fruit at a local grocery store and then go to a bar or café for my morning cappuccino.
Location
In Italy in particular, I only stay in the center of a town or city if I’m not driving. As I’ve mentioned elsewhere, driving into medieval hill towns can be a nightmare, and driving into cities like Rome is definitely not recommended!
A great advantage of traveling in Italy by public transit is that you can choose to stay in picturesque and historic town centers (centros). Grab a taxi from the train station and let your driver negotiate the tiny cobbled alleyways while you enjoy watching the passing throngs and imagining yourself back in the Middle Ages.
Tips for Drivers in Italy
When driving in Italy, I book places on the outskirts of the town or city and then take trams or taxis into the centro for sightseeing. In rural areas, like Tuscany and Umbria, I always book places located in the gorgeous countryside so I can take walks and, if it’s hot, enjoy a dip in the pool.
When selecting a hotel outside a city, I usually opt for a modern business hotel that includes free parking. Chains such as NH, Blu, and Best Western are generally reliable.
TIP: For a taste of la dolce vita, consider booking an agriturismo property for a week or more in a rural area. Attached to a working farm or vineyard, these properties provide you with opportunities to meet local families and to sample local food.
Star Rating
Over the years, I’ve stayed in many clean and well-run budget hotels in Italy, but these days I favor three- or four-star properties because I appreciate amenities such as elevators, air conditioning, parking, bathtubs, and in-room WIFI.
I also like larger rooms. Check the square meterage of the room. Anything under 15 square meters will be small, with a child-size shower stall and barely enough room to wedge your suitcase against the wall.
Reviews – Should You Care?
Yes, I pay attention to reviews. If a property’s aggregate review is under 8.0 out of a possible 10, I usually pass. Sometimes the difference between a property with a 9.6 review and one with an 8.2 review is only a few euros, and yet the quality of the higher-rated property makes the extra money worth spending.
You have to take reviews with a grain of salt, however. Just because a property has a score of 9.8 doesn’t meant it’s five-star luxury. Check the star rating, remember that a 9.8 score for a two-star hotel is not the same as a 9.8 for a four-star, and proceed accordingly.
TIP: Read reviews on a few sites, such as booking.com and TripAdvisor. I take my time when booking accommodations in Italy and elsewhere to make sure I’m getting the best value for my travel dollar.
Accommodation Options by Region
To help you plan your Italy getaway, here are my recommendations. For each destination, I describe properties I’ve stayed in along and suggest alternate properties that look good.
You can click the link to the hotel to make a reservation with booking.com.
Northern Italy
Turin
The Parco Hotel Sassi, located 4 kilometers from Turin, worked well for us when we were driving from France to Italy. We checked the pictures of the hotel and noted it was surrounded by the greenery of the Po Natural Park. When booking hotels on the outskirts of a town, make sure you don’t end up in a dreary suburb. Parco Hotel Sassi is situated in an attractive area outside of Turin. We appreciated the large rooms, beautiful grounds, and proximity to a family restaurant that served one of the best meals we’ve had in Italy. We left the car in the free car park and hopped the tram to get into Turin.
Milan
I can’t recommend the nondescript 3-star hotel we stayed in while visiting Milan a few years ago. It was located near the train station and was a bit on the dark and small side. I don’t recommend getting places too close to the train station in big cities. In my experience, such hotels tend to be rather soul-less!
I’ve provided two options located in the lively center of Milan for travelers who are not traveling by car (take a taxi from the train station). If you are traveling by car, check the maps and select a hotel located near the main highway of your route into the city. Note that Milan is not as crazy to drive in as, say, Rome. However, it is a big city, and, as a rule, steering clear of big cities is the less stressful option. After all, you’re on vacation!
I once stayed in a teeny tiny room in a business hotel near Malpensa airport, but I can’t recommend it unless you have an early flight to catch.
In central Milan, Antica Locanda Dei Mercanti looks like an excellent, relatively high-end choice located close to the Sforza Castle and featuring terraces and views. The reviews are excellent, and the rooms appear quite spacious. The hotel includes an airport shuttle, but parking is €38 a day so probably not the best choice for drivers.
Also in central Milan, Hotel Gran Duca Di York is a three-star hotel in an excellent location near the Duomo. Ratings are good, although room sizes are not specified for all room types, and some look small. However, the price is reasonable, considering it’s Milan..
Have a look at the map below for additional accommodation options in Milan.
The Hotel Magdalener-Hof, high on a hill above Bolzano, was a perfect stop for us when we were en route to Venice after crossing into Italy through the Brenner Pass from Austria. We had a dip in the pool overlooking the view and then caught the local bus into Bolzano to wander its colorful streets before enjoying dinner at a restaurant on the town square. At the end of the evening, we grabbed a taxi back to the hotel for about €5–much easier and less stressful than driving into town and looking for parking.
Dolomites
We drove up into the Dolomites to the picturesque Alpine village of Seis and stayed in the Parc Hotel Florian. The view from our balcony of needle-sharp Mount Schlern looming above the village was fabulous–exactly the view of the Dolomites I’d hoped for. The hotel included a hearty dinner, which was great because restaurant options in the area were limited. The hotel makes a good home base if you plan to spend a few days in the area and take lifts up to the Alpe di Siusi to go hiking.
Venice and Ravenna
Venice
If you have the time, rent an apartment in Venice and stay for a week. Live like a local, not that you’ll see many locals these days. Venetians are moving out of the city at an alarming rate. But at least you’ll experience shopping in tiny local grocery stores and get to know your way around a neighborhood.
If you’re staying in Venice for two or three days, consider the Dorsoduro district across the Grand Canal from the Piazza San Marco. I recommend you avoid the area immediately adjacent to Piazza San Marco. Hotels there can be expensive, and the tiny streets in the area are wall-to-wall tourists during the day.
Here are suggestions for hotels that we have stayed in–one in the Dorsoduro and one near the Rialto Bridge.
Hotel Canaletto: We stayed there a few years ago and loved it. The rooms were small, but that’s par for the course in Venice. The location, just 200 meters from Rialto Bridge, was fantastic as was its situation on a charming side canal.
Hotel Messner is a more modest option, located in the Dorsoduro neighborhood close to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. It was quiet, and the area was peaceful and uncrowded, particularly at night.
For other options in Venice, check the map below. Resist the temptation to stay on the mainland. The savings will be minimal once you take into account train fares and your time. Stay in the middle of Venice and enjoy this unique city.
We were driving when we visited Ravenna, so we stayed at the Grand Hotel Mattei, about a ten-minute taxi ride from the center of Ravenna. The hotel was large and modern and included free parking–a perfect choice! When we’re driving in Italy, convenience usually wins out over charm.
The map below shows more options in and around Ravenna.
We’ve stayed in marvelous hotels and bed-and-breakfasts in Tuscany–some in the countryside and some in the towns. You’ll find amazing villa properties in Tuscany and pay equally amazing prices. Most of my suggestions are in the modest €80-150 per night range.
Florence
One of the best weeks I spent in Florence was at a rented house high above the city, near Fiesole. While swimming in the pool, we could see the Duomo shimmering in the distance. If you have the time and a car, consider renting a house a few kilometers outside Florence. You can then drive to one of the parking lots on the perimeter of the city and catch a bus into the centro.
Here are two suggestions for hotels I’ve stayed at in central Florence.
Hotel Pitti Palace at Ponte Vecchio is a great choice because it’s across the Ponte Vecchio in the atmospheric and marginally less crowded San Giovanni district. I stayed there on a solo trip to Florence and was especially taken by the views from the rooftop bar. Highly recommended.
View from the rooftop bar at the Hotel Pitti Palace in Florence
The Hotel Alba Palace is an elegant property in a good location near Santa Maria Novella Basilica.
If you’re driving, you do not want to drive into central Florence. Instead, find a place on the outskirts and take a bus. Here are two places we’ve stayed in that I recommend.
The Hotel Ungherese is a two-star, budget option that includes a statue-filled garden, views over Florence, spacious rooms, and easy parking. It’s a good bargain and not far from Florence on the local bus. The Hilton Garden Hotel Florence Novoli is a four-star, reasonably-priced property a 15-minute bus ride from the center of Florence. The hotel is slick and modern and lacking in charm. However, it’s easy to find, and parking is underground and secure.
For other accommodation options in Florence, check the map below.
I heartily recommend three places outside the walls of San Gimignano that I’ve stayed in over the years. My favorite is the Hotel Pescille which I’ve stayed in at least four times since we discovered it back in 1999!
Hotel Pescille: This three-star establishment has a killer view over the valley to the towers of San Gimignano. I keep returning to the Hotel Pescille for its simple but comfortable rooms, its fabulous location in the Tuscan countryside, and the rustic furnishings. The walls in the common areas are decorated with farm implements, and ceramic pumpkins adorn niches and stairwells. The Hotel Pescille is located about a five-minute drive south of San Gimignano.
On our most recent trip, we took several walks near the hotel to admire the view. Here’s a shot of San Gimignano from a vantage point close to the Hotel Pescille. Look at those clouds!
I give you San Gimignano!
Relais Cappuccina: On the north side of San Gimignano, the Relais Cappuccina affords a different–and equally stunning–panoramic view of San Gimignano than that of the Hotel Pescille. The pool at this hotel is lovely, thanks to its situation overlooking San Gimignano. Our room was spacious and bright and included a terrace.
The swimming pool at the Relais Cappuccina with San Gimignano in the distance
Villa Ducci: I stayed here on my own while researching my novel, The Towers of Tuscany, and loved it. The staff were friendly and helpful. They even allowed me to view the cellar with its 14th-century foundations that later played a role in the novel. The Villa Ducci, like the Relais Cappuccina, is located on the north side of San Gimignano. Here’s a sunrise view of the town I snapped one morning.
The map below shows more options for staying in or near San Gimignano. If you’re traveling without a car, consider one of the hotels in the center of the town so you can enjoy moonlit strolls around the medieval streets before turning in.
Palazzo Masi: This small bed-and-breakfast in the center of Siena is steps from the Campo and located in a building that dates from the 14th century. I stayed here while researching The Towers of Tuscany. It’s a great choice if you’re not driving in Siena.
Athena Hotel: This is a wonderful choice if you’re driving because it’s located just inside the city walls and easily accessible. The rooms are large and the views over the countryside spectacular. We’ll stay there again, for sure.
Check the map for more accommodation options in Siena. If you’re driving, choose properties at or near the city walls rather than in the center of the city where access is tight and parking at a premium.
Casale Dinelli: This is a lovely agriturismo property near Tarquinia, consisting of two small guest cottages set in beautiful grounds that included vegetable gardens we were welcome to raid.
Charming cottage accommodations at the Casale Dinelli
Breakfast food supplied; strawberries fresh from the garden
Umbria
We stayed for ten days in Umbria in an amazing apartment attached to the gallery where Gregg had an exhibition. Located outside the lovely little town of Gualdo Tadino, the place made a wonderful home base for exploring the principal towns of Umbria.
Because we chose a homestay for our Umbria visit in 2018, most of my recommendations for these towns are based on user reviews rather than personal experience. We did, however, stay in the Hotel Valentino in Orvieto the first time we visited Umbria.
Assisi
The Vico del Poeta looks like an excellent, medieval bed-and- breakfast in Assisi. Reviews are good, and free parking is included (always a bonus!).
Grand Hotel Assisi: I like the look of this place–panoramic views, a swimming pool, and a reasonable price.
Orvieto
Hotel Valentino is situated in the centro storico (the historical center) of Orvieto but is accessible by car. We loved being in the middle of the medieval action here–able to stroll the cobbled streets after all the crowds were gone. The hotel itself is old and rather dark but comfortable and clean. A solid choice.
Agriturismo Podere Pescara is located in the countryside near Orvieto. The surroundings look amazing! Very Tuscan.
Perugia
Sangallo Palace includes balconies, views, and what looks to be a lovely ambiance near Perugia.
Marche
I have to put in a plug for the Hotel Emilia, high on a cliff overlooking the Adriatic Sea on the east coast of Italy. If you drive east through Umbria, you’ll likely end up in the Marche, the biggest city being Ancona on the coast. Once a bit off the tourist track, the region is getting more popular and for good reason.
The Hotel Emilia is wonderful; stunning views and fabulous modern sculptures and paintings decorate the grounds and public rooms. We stayed for two nights, relaxing in the gardens overlooking the misty view of the legend-shrouded Adriatic, taking long walks along the cliff top, and enjoying a beachside dinner in the village of Portonovo a few minutes’ drive down the hill. We were there in May, which is still the off-season. I gather that in the summer, the beach is mobbed!
View from the grounds of the Hotel Emilia
On the sandy beach at Portonovo
View over Portonovo from the Hotel Emilia
Rome
We tend to favor apartments when staying in Rome. Our favorite location is in the tiny streets leading into the Piazza Navona. One year we had an apartment that included a rooftop terrace! Hotels are plentiful but not budget-friendly in Rome. Here are two I’ve stayed in that I recommend.
Deko Rome is a small bed-and-breakfast located close to the Borghese Gardens in a lovely residential area of Rome. I stayed there when I traveled to Rome on my own and found it comfortable and budget-friendly.
Hotel Paba is a small, two-star hotel that occupies the second floor of a residential building conveniently located on the Via Cavour, not far from the Colosseum. In fact, you can see the Colosseum from the street. The decor is old-fashioned and cosy and the price reasonable, considering the central location.
Check the map for more accommodation options in Rome. I suggest the area around the Piazza Navona or the less touristy Trastevere.
We stayed in the Hotel Paradiso. Located on Posillipo Hill, the hotel has a commanding view across the Bay of Naples to Mount Vesuvius. Relax on the terrace and enjoy! The hotel is comfortable and reasonably priced.
Sorrento
The Hotel Eden has a central location in Sorrento, with rooms on the upper floors overlooking the stunning view of the Bay of Naples. Lush gardens and a pool provide a welcome oasis. This is a good choice for Sorrento, although not budget-friendly.
Positano
We didn’t stay in Positano, so my recommendations are based on what I think looks good. Prices are high in this holiday mecca, so if Positano is above your price range, consider staying longer in Sorrento and taking a day tour down the Amalfi coast.
In Positano, the über posh Sirenuse Hotel is über expensive, but if you’re budget runs to it – wowee! Scenes from Only You were filmed there.
A more budget-friendly option is the Villa Antonietta that still has sea views but is much more modestly appointed.
Enjoy Your Travels in Italy!
Do you have accommodation recommendations to share? Please let me know in the Comments section. I’m always on the lookout for new places to stay in Italy.
Here are some more posts to enjoy while you’re planning your trip to Italy:
