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London’s National Gallery: The Best of the Best

November 14, 2022March 11, 2023Artsy Sightseeing, Destinations, England carolcram Leave a Comment

Last updated on March 11th, 2023 at 08:10 pm

I love the National Gallery in London! It’s small enough to enjoy in a few hours without getting exhausted (unlike the Louvre), and yet big enough to include an astonishing collection of masterpieces from the Middle Ages to the Impressionists.

Also, it’s free, which is amazing considering that every other major art museum in Europe charges at least 20 to 30 Euros.

I dropped by the National Gallery fairly late in the day and so only had an hour to spend before it closed. An hour is not enough, but if it’s all you have, you won’t be disappointed.

I wandered in a trance from room to room, eyes tearing up as every turn brought so many favorites before me. An impressive number of biggies are included in the sumptuous rooms.

I hadn’t visited London’s National Gallery for several years, and so was doubly excited to greet so many old friends and to discover several new pieces to admire.

In this post, I showcase some of the highlights.

Note that the images are downloaded from the National Gallery’s website, which allows display of its images for personal use, including blogs. I was glad to discover this because my own photographs are sometimes a bit crooked and ill-lit! Thank you, National Gallery.

Medieval Period at the National Gallery

Pieces by most of the major painters, including Giotto, Duccio, Lorenzetti, and Lippi, are included in the National Gallery’s medieval collection. One of the reasons why I love medieval Italian painting is because of how the artists depicted buildings. While perspective is generally lacking, the artists of this period captured the essence of medieval towns as a hodgepodge of arches and towers built at varying angles and heights. The arrangements communicate the feeling of a medieval town, rather than just a realistic representation, that still rings true today when you visit places like Siena and San Gimignano in Tuscany.

The Healing of the Man Born Blind by Duccio

I chose this painting because of how Duccio di Buoninsegna depicted the buildings behind the people. I love how the pastel colors of the buildings in the background contrast with the more vibrant robes of the central figures.

This painting is a small panel–one of 54 minutely detailed narrative scenes that was included in Duccio’s Maestà. A massive work, Maestà is considered one of the most ambitious altarpieces ever created. Most of the rest of the altarpiece is on display in the Museo dell’opera del Duomo in Siena. Read about it in my post about top cathedrals in Europe in which I include Siena Cathedral adjacent to the Museo. If you’re in Siena, the Museo dell’opera del Duomo (the museum of the cathedral) is a must-see.

When the Maestà was completed in 1311, it was carried through the streets of Siena. One of the characters in my novel The Towers of Tuscany reminiscences about seeing the procession when she was a young girl.

Duccio The Healing of the Man born Blind 1307/8-11 Egg tempera on wood, 45.1 x 46.7 cm National Gallery in London — Duccio The Healing of the Man born Blind 1307/8-11 Egg tempera on wood, 45.1 x 46.7 cm Bought, 1883 NG1140 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG1140

A Group of Four Poor Clares by Ambrogio Lorenzetti

Lorenzetti was active in Siena during the 1300s and likely died of the plague that hit Siena in 1348. I really like his work and so was delighted to discover this piece in the National Gallery. It’s a fragment of a fresco that was discovered under whitewash in 1855. I love the realism of the faces and their pensive expressions.

Ambrogio Lorenzetti A Group of Four Poor Clares possibly about 1336-40 Fresco with areas of secco, 70.4 × 63.4 cm at the National Gallery in London — Ambrogio Lorenzetti A Group of Four Poor Clares possibly about 1336-40 Fresco with areas of secco, 70.4 × 63.4 cm Bought, 1878 NG1147 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG1147

Italian Renaissance at the National Gallery

So many masterpieces, so little time! I was rushed by the time I got to the rooms containing some of my favorite artists from the Italian Renaissance, most notably Leonardo da Vinci and Botticelli, so I was unable to linger as long as I would have liked. Still, I managed to soak up the Renaissance vibe.

The Burlington House Cartoon by Leonardo da Vinci

I remember the first time I saw this piece when I was student at Reading University in the 1970s. Reading was only 40 minutes by train from London so I often went up to enjoy the art museums.

The Burlington House Cartoon is a large drawing made in preparation for a painting and is the only surviving large-scale drawing done by da Vinci. I like the contrast of rough and finished in the drawing. Some parts, such as the face of Mary, are beautifully detailed and evocative while others, such as the hand of Saint Anne (Mary’s mother) pointing heavenward, are barely sketched in.

Exhibited in a small, dimly lit room, the piece just glows.

Leonardo da Vinci The Burlington House Cartoon about 1499-1500 Charcoal (and wash?) heightened with white chalk on paper, mounted on canvas, 141.5 x 104.6 cm at the National Gallery in London — Leonardo da Vinci The Burlington House Cartoon about 1499-1500 Charcoal (and wash?) heightened with white chalk on paper, mounted on canvas, 141.5 x 104.6 cm Purchased with a special grant and contributions from the Art Fund, The Pilgrim Trust, and through a public appeal organised by the Art Fund, 1962 NG6337 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6337

Venus and Mars by Sandro Botticelli

I’ve been a fan of Botticelli’s work since discovering it while taking a first-year History of Art course in 1974. I’d forgotten that Venus and Mars–one of Botticelli’s most famous paintings–is in the National Gallery, and gasped out loud when I entered the roomful of Botticellis. Fortunately, no one noticed.

There’s so much to love about this painting! The look on Venus’s face as she coolly regards the blissed- out Mars is priceless. She’s clearly not all that impressed! And then there are the four mischievious nymphs trying to wake up Mars. One of them is even wearing his helmet.

Sandro Botticelli Venus and Mars about 1485 Tempera and oil on poplar, 69.2 x 173 at the National Gallery in London — Sandro Botticelli Venus and Mars about 1485 Tempera and oil on poplar, 69.2 x 173.4 cm Bought, 1874 NG915 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG915

Flemish Masterpieces at the National Gallery

The National Gallery is particularly well endowed with masterpieces from the northern Renaissance. You’ll find several pieces by Rembrandt, two gems by Vermeer, and a famous van Dyck, among many others.

The Arnolfini Portrait by Jan van Eyck

This is one of the most famous paintings in the National Gallery, and is considered one of the most famous and intriguing paintings in the world. There are so many details to examine, and all have significance. For more information about the painting (which was completed in 1434) and why it’s considered so great, check out this analysis on YouTube.

Jan van Eyck The Arnolfini Portrait 1434 Oil on oak, 82.2 x 60 cm at the National Gallery in London — Jan van Eyck The Arnolfini Portrait 1434 Oil on oak, 82.2 x 60 cm Bought, 1842 NG186 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG186

A Woman Bathing in a Stream by Rembrandt

This is such a tender, beautiful painting by Rembrandt, and a bit of a change from his many portraits and self-portraits. The woman may be Hendrickje Stoffels, who came into Rembrandt’s household to look after his infant son after his first wife, Saskia, died. Hendrickje and Rembrandt became lovers but were unable to marry. There is a universality about the intimate moment caught in the painting that resonates with anyone who has ever taken off their shoes on a hot day to wade in a cool stream.

Rembrandt A Woman bathing in a Stream (Hendrickje Stoffels?) at the National Gallery in London — Rembrandt A Woman bathing in a Stream (Hendrickje Stoffels?) 1654 Oil on oak, 61.8 x 47 cm Holwell Carr Bequest, 1831 NG54 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG54

A Young Woman Seated at a Virginal by Johannes Vermeer

The word exquisite always come to mind when I look at a painting by Vermeer. Detailed and delicate, this painting shows us a moment in time. The young girl is just about to play, but someone or something has distracted her. Whatever it is, she doesn’t look too thrilled.

One of the ways to appreciate just why Vermeer is considered so great is to look at paintings by his contemporaries. Most depict similar subjects, but you can tell right away that there’s something different about the Vermeers. The brushwork is finer, the light more skillfully depicted, the backgrounds more perfectly rendered. Vermeer didn’t paint many pieces during his lifetime, but what he did paint was pretty amazing.

hannes Vermeer A Young Woman seated at a Virginal about 1670-2 Oil on canvas, 51.5 x 45.5 cm at the National Gallery in London — Johannes Vermeer A Young Woman seated at a Virginal about 1670-2 Oil on canvas, 51.5 x 45.5 cm Salting Bequest, 1910 NG2568 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG2568

A Boy and A Girl with a Cat and an Eel by Judith Leyster

I was super excited to come across this painting by Judith Leyster, who has been getting more recognition in recent years. The boy and the girl are definitely up to no good!

Judith Leyster A Boy and a Girl with a Cat and an Eel about 1635 Oil on oak, 59.4 × 48.8 cm at the National Gallery in London — Judith Leyster A Boy and a Girl with a Cat and an Eel about 1635 Oil on oak, 59.4 × 48.8 cm Bequeathed by C.F. Leach, 1943 NG5417 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG5417

The Four Elements: Air, Earth, Fire, Water by Joachim Beuckelaer

I had never seen these paintings before. They are not particularly famous, but they are interesting. I couldn’t stop looking at them.

Each painting depicts food according to its relationship to one of the four elements. In the Air painting, birds are being plucked and sold. Some impressive-looking vegetables are on display in the Earth painting. The Fire painting depicts game being butchered and roasted, and finally many different varieties of fish are ready for market in the Water painting.

The expressions on the faces of the people in the paintings are blank and dour. No one looks like they are enjoying themselves! But the colors and textures of the foods are so incredibly real. They almost look like they are about to spill out of the paintings onto the floor of the gallery.

Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Air 1570 Oil on canvas, 158 × 216 cm at the National Gallery in London — Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Air 1570 Oil on canvas, 158 × 216 cm Bought, 2001 NG6587 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6587

Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Earth 1569 Oil on canvas, 158 × 215.4 cm at the National Gallery in London — Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Earth 1569 Oil on canvas, 158 × 215.4 cm Bought, 2001 NG6585 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6585

Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Fire 1570 Oil on canvas at the National Gallery in London — Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Fire 1570 Oil on canvas, 158.2 × 215.4 cm Bought, 2001 NG6588 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6588

Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Water 1569 Oil on canvas, 158.1 × 214.9 cm at the National Gallery in London — Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Water 1569 Oil on canvas, 158.1 × 214.9 cm Bought, 2001 NG6586 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6586

Baroque Paintings at the National Gallery

Boy Bitten by a Lizard by Caravaggio

In a room full of great paintings, I was instantly drawn to this small painting by Caravaggio of a boy being bitten by a lizard. The expression on his face is so real and so relatable. The painting was completed in Rome in the mid-1590s and was considered innovative for the time. Apparently, it was unusual for a late-16th-century painting to show such a moment of action. Caravaggio, however, wasn’t worried about following artistic conventions. He painted directly on the canvas from live models

Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio Boy bitten by a Lizard about 1594-5 Oil on canvas, 66 x 49.5 cm at the National Gallery in London — Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio Boy bitten by a Lizard about 1594-5 Oil on canvas, 66 x 49.5 cm Bought with the aid of a contribution from the J. Paul Getty Jr Endowment Fund, 1986 NG6504 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6504

British Painting at the National Gallery

The Fighting Temeraire by William Turner

My father bought a print of this painting when he first visited London in the 1960s. It was probably the first real painting I’d ever seen, and I remember loving to look at it when I was a child. When I saw it again in the National Gallery, I couldn’t help feeling emotional since my father has been gone for several years now and my mother passed quite recently.

Turner’s painting shows the final journey of the Temeraire, a warship that had played a distinguished role in the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805, but by 1838 was ready for the scrap heap. It’s a poignant scene in its depiction of the age of sail giving way to the age of steam. Turner, of course, was most famous for his depiction of light, which is on full display in the magnificent sunset depicted in the painting.

The painting is one of Turner’s most famous and duly celebrated, but for me it will always remind me of my childhood home.

Joseph Mallord William Turner The Fighting Temeraire 1839 Oil on canvas, 90.7 x 121.6 cm at the National Gallery in London — Joseph Mallord William Turner The Fighting Temeraire 1839 Oil on canvas, 90.7 x 121.6 cm Turner Bequest, 1856 NG524 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG524

Impressionists and Post-Impressionists at the National Gallery

The rooms displaying paintings by the Impressionists and post-Impressionists are generally mobbed at the National Gallery. So many famous pieces are included! Stand in the middle of one of the rooms and rotate slowly. If you’re a fan of this era and style of art, you’ll likely recognize just about every piece in the room, from the iconic Sunflowers by van Gogh to the massive painting of The Bathers by Seurat and the sublime waterlilies by Monet.

I’d forgotten just how rich the National Gallery’s collection of Impressionists is and spent my first few minutes in the rooms exclaiming (to myself), they have that? and that one? oh, my, and that one too? This is incredible!

I had to sit down a few times just to collect myself. I’ve picked out four of my favorites (but it was a tough choice).

Waterlilies by Monet

This luscious painting dominates one entire wall and is hard to get a full-on look at thanks to the throngs of like-minded visitors standing in front of it. This piece is one that was not included in the collection of large waterlily paintings in Musėe de l’Orangerie in Paris (check out my round-up of Nine of the Best Small Museums in Paris for more about the Monets in the Orangerie).

The waterlily paintings in the Orangerie include details of trees and foliage that anchor the viewer and give them a sense of location. But this painting in the National Gallery is completely free-flowing. You have no idea where in the pond you are; you’re immersed in a shimmering world of greens and pinks and purples. No photograph can do it justice; you need to stand in front of the real thing and just drink it in.

Claude Monet Water-Lilies after 1916 Oil on canvas, 200.7 x 426.7 cm at the National Gallery in London — Claude Monet Water-Lilies after 1916 Oil on canvas, 200.7 x 426.7 cm Bought, 1963 NG6343 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6343

Sunflowers by Vincent van Gogh

This cheerful painting of sunflowers exuberantly clumped together in a plain vase signed by “Vincent” is probably the most famous of van Gogh’s works. It appears on a dizzying array of merchandise in the gift shop, from mugs to cards to t-shirts to umbrellas.

Why is this painting so famous? I think because it looks like sunshine on canvas. The varying shades of yellow and gold that van Gogh uses perfectly capture the feeling of a hot day in late summer when some sunflowers are still in bloom, others have just passed their peak and are starting to wilt, and still others have lost their petals completely.

This version of Sunflowers is one of five, the other four being on display in art museums around the world including the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam (always worth a visit!). Apparently, van Gogh made the paintings to decorate his house in Arles in preparation for a visit from fellow artist Paul Gauguin.

Vincent van Gogh Sunflowers 1888 Oil on canvas, 92.1 x 73 cm at the National gallery in London — Vincent van Gogh Sunflowers 1888 Oil on canvas, 92.1 x 73 cm Bought, Courtauld Fund, 1924 NG3863 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG3863

Bathers at Asnières by Georges Seurat

The painting depicts regular people enjoying a day off at the river, the factories they work in visible in the distance, their focus on the feel of warm grass and cool water. It’s a snapshot in time. Each person is immersed in his own thoughts; each is alone, the exhaustion of a week at work still heavy on their shoulders even on their day off.

This massive painting is famous for its use of pointillism and was Seurat’s first major composition. He painted it at the age of 24 to make his mark at the official Salon in the spring of 1884. Unfortunately, the painting was rejected!

Georges Seurat Bathers at Asnières 1884 Oil on canvas, 201 × 300 cm at the National Gallery in London — Georges Seurat Bathers at Asnières 1884 Oil on canvas, 201 × 300 cm Bought, Courtauld Fund, 1924 NG3908 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG3908

Surprised! by Rousseau

This painting by Rousseau was new to me, and I just loved it! Look at the expression on the tiger’s face! Has he been frightened by the flashes of lightning and the sudden wind blowing the jungle foliage all over the place? Who knows? But it’s such a wonderfully lush moment. Surprised! was the first of about 20 jungle paintings that Rousseau produced. His jungles are entirely imaginary; Rousseau never left France.

He was an amateur artist who faced a fair bit of ridicule from the art establishment, but now Rousseau is considered a pioneer of “naïve art.”

Henri Rousseau Surprised! 1891 Oil on canvas, 129.8 x 161.9 cm at the National Gallery in London — Henri Rousseau Surprised! 1891 Oil on canvas, 129.8 x 161.9 cm Bought, with the aid of a substantial donation from the Hon. Walter H. Annenberg, 1972 NG6421 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6421

National Gallery Details

The National Gallery is open daily from 10 am to 6 pm and on Fridays until 9 pm. It’s located on Trafalgar Square and entry is free, although donations are welcomed. The nearest Tube stations are Charing Cross and Leicester Square.

Tours of the National Gallery

Every so often, I spring for a guided tour of an art museum and I’m never disappointed. Here are some options for touring the National Gallery.

Conclusion

Have you visited the National Gallery? What are some of your favorites? Share in the Comments below. Want more posts about art museums? Here are some posts about great art museums in Europe that I’ve visited and recommend:

Birmingham: A Pleasant Surprise for the Artsy Traveler

November 12, 2022March 11, 2023Artsy Sightseeing, Destinations, England, Get Inspired carolcram Leave a Comment

Last updated on March 11th, 2023 at 07:43 pm

Back in the day, industrial Birmingham did not have the best of reputations. I lived in England for four years in the 1970s and have been back many times, but never have I put Birmingham on my itinerary. I remember changing trains there in 1979 and walking quickly and a tad nervously between stations.

But over the last few decades, Birmingham has undergone a transformation.

Why I Went to Birmingham

While planning my solo trip to England in 2022, I put Birmingham on my list for one reason only. I wanted to visit a National Trust property called Birmingham Back to Backs. It’s not a grand country house like the vast majority of National Trust properties, but rather a nondescript collection of cramped houses built around a courtyard in the style known as back-to-back.

For over two centuries, millions of Britons (including some of my ancestors) lived and worked in this type of housing. I was writing a novel set in a mill town in Yorkshire in the 1890s and wanted to know how regular people lived. Since the Birmingham Back to Backs property is the only one of its kind left in England, I booked two nights in Birmingham to see it.

But I had zero expectations of what else I’d see and do while in Birmingham.

Birmingham Map

The map below includes all the locations mentioned in this post. I suggest staying in the Gas Street Basin area (see below). You can walk pretty much everywhere from there or grab an Uber.

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a trip planner app on iOS and Android

Arrival in Birmingham

I arrived at Birmingham New Street Train Station (#5 on the map above) at 7 pm after a wonderful day tootling around the Cotswolds on a Go Cotswolds tour (read my post all about it!) and took a taxi to the AC Marriott hotel located on the edge of the Gas Street Basin (#3 on the map above) in Birmingham’s bustling and refurbished city center.

The AC Marriott is located in Gas Street Basin in the building called The Mailbox

The second largest city in England, Birmingham appears to be booming. After checking in to the hotel, I emerged quayside to the Gas Street Basin to survey a plethora of modern architecture, colorful boats cruising along canals lined with posh restaurants and bustling pubs, and throngs of people out having a good time.

Birmingham apparently has more miles of canals than Venice. Who knew?

The city planners got things right with this area of Birmingham. It’s incredibly people-friendly with its canal-side walkways and aura of peaceful prosperity.

A Full Day in Birmingham

While enjoying my first coffee of the day at a coffee shop on the main floor of the hotel, I tried to listen in on the conversation between two men sitting next to me. They were speaking English—I think. The famous Brummie accent really is just about incomprehensible, at least to me.

I needed to listen very, very carefully to hear more than a series of rumbles and mumbles with swallowed consonants and vowels and glottal stops. Clipped words emerged from throats that sounded like they’d been stuffed with cotton. I worried the men were choking, but no, they were just having a regular conversation. I’ve eavesdropped on French conversations and understood more!

So far, I’ve had to ask anyone I’ve interacted with to repeat themselves several times. Even a phrase like Anything else? asked by the coffee person comes out as noise.

And I thought the Scots accent was hard to understand! The Birmingham accent has it beat, hands down.

Birmingham Back to Backs

As mentioned, I decided to spend a full day in Birmingham to tour the Birmingham Back to Backs (#1 on the map above), a National Trust property that promises to let visitors experience 200 years of working people’s lives in the heart of Birmingham.

A hundred years ago, the Midlands and North of England were full of these brick structures built to accommodate the millions of factory workers needed to keep the industrial revolution ticking over.

I purchased my ticket a month prior (pre-booking is essential) and arrived at 10:30 am for the first tour of the day.

Entrance to Birmingham Back-to-Backs National Trust Property — Entrance to Birmingham Back to Backs National Trust Property

For almost two hours, I enjoyed one of the most comprehensive and interesting tours I’ve ever experienced.

The National Trust is known for its stewardship of massive stately homes—domains of the 1%. I’ve visited many of these homes over the years and marveled at the art and architecture.

The Birmingham Back to Backs are at the opposite end of the wealth spectrum. That the National Trust also recognized the need to preserve the type of building in which a great majority of the population lived right up until the early 2000s is to its credit.

What are Back to Backs?

The Back to Backs are houses built, as the name suggests, back-to-back, with half the houses facing the street and the other half facing an inner courtyard. A collection of these houses is known as a court. Some courts included dozens of houses. The National Trust has preserved Court 15, a community of eleven houses thought to have housed over 500 different families over its 200-year lifespan.

The courtyard at the Birmingham Back-to-Backs — The courtyard at the Birmingham Back to Backs

A very knowledgeable guide took our group into four homes and related the stories of the occupants from four time periods between 1840 and 1977. In our group of 9, everyone except me hailed from England.

One of the men, who was about my age, told us that his mum had been born in a Back to Back. I’m pretty sure my grandmother and certainly my great-grandmother would have lived in similar housing up in Yorkshire.

House 1: 1851

Each of the four houses we visit was decorated in the style of a different time period. The first was from 1851 and was occupied by the Levy family, a Jewish family who migrated to Birmingham from London. The house was surprisingly comfortable, even spacious, although certainly not luxurious. Lawrence Levy had been a watchmaker and had his workshop on the top floor.

We climbed up and down tiny twisting stairways numerous times during the tour. Handrails and grips were provided for safety, but the guide informed us that back in the day, none of the staircases would have had handrails. She asked us to imagine how agile a woman would have needed to be to mount the stairs while wearing long skirts and carrying a candle in one hand and probably a baby in the other. Apparently, accidents were common, and no wonder.

Even hanging on with both hands, I could barely make it up some of the almost vertical stairways!

House 2: 1860s

The next house we entered belonged to the Oldfield family who lived in one of the back houses in the 1860s. Eleven people lived in the house at that time—two parents, seven children, and two lodgers all crammed into three floors consisting of one room per floor that also included space for Herbert Oldfield’s workshop. He was a glassworker who made glass eyes for dolls and stuffed toys.

One of the double beds had four pillows—two at each end. Four children would have slept top to tail in the bed, with likely one more in the middle! The guide also showed us a bureau drawer in which the baby would sleep.

A curtain divided the children’s bed from another double bed slept in by two lodgers. A man and a woman (unmarried) shared the bed but apparently not at the same time. One worked the day shift and the other the night shift so they were two ships passing in the night. Their space was bare of everything except a bed and a high shelf on which was stacked a small collection of books. The entire room was maybe 12’ x 12’.

The overcrowding must have been horrendous—and yet very common. My great-grandmother with her twelve brothers and sisters would have lived in a similar place when she was young. She eloped in 1903 and emigrated to Canada in 1911 when my grandmother was five years old. The log cabin she inhabited in British Columbia with her four children and no running water must have seemed like paradise compared to the housing of her youth.

Entrance to the communal wash house at the Birmingham Back-to-Backs — Entrance to the communal wash house at the Birmingham Back to Backs

House 3: 1830s-1935

Three generations of the third family—the Mitchells—lived at Court 15 from the 1830s, when water had to be brought from the well a few blocks away, until 1935 when the houses had basic plumbing and electricity.

The prevailing feeling in the small rooms was how cramped, dark, and uncomfortable they must have been to live in. The upper floors had no heat, and damp was a constant problem.

House 4: 1960s-2002

The final house was lived in by George Saunders who migrated to Birmingham in 1958 from St. Kitts in the Caribbean. By that time, the ground floor of Court 15 had been converted to shops with some people still living in the floors above. George was a tailor and the last person who worked in Court 15 before its closure in 2002.

Special Exhibition at Birmingham Back to Backs

After enjoying the tour (highly recommended), I toured the special exhibitions. The most interesting documented the Child’s Emigration Homes founded by John T. Milldemore in 1873. The Homes sent 5000 orphans and desperately poor children from Birmingham to Ontario, Nova Scotia, and British Columbia in Canada. Between 1922 and 1955, they sent another 259 children to Australia.

While some children thrived in their new homes, others did not and suffered terrible abuse. The pictures and commentary are both heartbreaking and compelling.

Photograph of Mary S., living in poverty in Birmingham in 1896 and allegedly better off in Canada in 1897

Birmingham Back to Backs Practical Information

Operated by the National Trust, the Birmingham Back to Backs are accessible only by a guided tour that you must book in advance. Here’s the link. Tours are offered from 10:00 to 15:00 daily (closed Monday). Admission is free to National Trust members. Non-member prices are £9.50 for adults and £4.75 for children.

The Barber Institute of Fine Arts

After a lunch of leftover chicken wings from my dinner the night before, I set off for the Barber Institute of Fine Arts (#2). I had wanted to visit the Birmingham Museum & Art Gallery (#6) which is said to be world-class and have an excellent collection of paintings by the pre-Raphaelites. However, it was undergoing renovations, with almost all the galleries closed.

Housed in an imposing building on the campus of the University of Birmingham, the Barber Institute of Fine Arts was also reputed to have a fine collection so off I went. I took my first Birmingham Uber with a young man originally from Haiti who was very interested in learning all about Canada. We had a great chat as he drove me through the posh area of Birmingham with large houses and leafy avenues on our way to the university.

The Barber Institute Collection

The collection at the Barber Institute of Fine Arts was small but quite exquisite. I spent a happy hour wandering past works from the 14th to the 19th centuries. Here are a few highlights.

Dürer Special Exhibition

One room was dedicated to a special exhibition of etchings by Albrecht Dürer. I’ve had a soft spot for Dürer even since touring his house in Nuremberg on a trip to Germany in 2015.

Etching of a greyhound by Albrecht Dürer

Medieval Art

One of the first rooms included a good collection of medieval art (always my favorite). Here’s a piece by Simone Martini (1284-1344) of Saint John the Evangelist. Painted in Siena in 1320, the piece originally formed the right-hand panel of a triptych. Although there is no signature on the piece to prove it was painted by Martini, the refined use of color, the elegant borders to the drapery, and the decoration in the gilding are characteristic of Martini’s style, which was very innovative for the time.

Flemish Art

I am fascinated by the still life paintings common in Flanders during the 16th and 17th centuries. The Barber had several interesting examples, including the two shown below.

A Still Life with a Nautilus Cup by Jan Davidsz de Heem

I love how the objects have been arranged in this painting to demonstrate how well the artist is able to show the play of light on different materials–shell, pewter, leaves, fruit, etc., using only a few colors. Jan Davidsz de Heem (1606-1683/4) lived in Leiden, Holland.

Still Life with a Garland of Fruit by Maria Tassaert

A woman artist! You don’t see many of them, although I noticed on my trip in 2022 that changes are afoot. In most galleries, I found a least a few paintings by female old masters as more and more of them are being rediscovered and given their due.

Maria Tassaert (about 1642-1668) lived and worked in Antwerp in Flanders. The painting is a celebration of Nature’s bounty and the artist’s technical skills in depicting a cluster of fruit that includes cherries, white peaches, white and black grapes, nectarines, raspberries, blackberries, and gooseberries in addition to ivy and fruit-tree leaves.

Still Life with a Garland of Fruit by Maria Tassaert - a still life from the 17th century Flanders — *Still Life with a Garland of Fruit* by Maria Tassaert

Impressionists

The Barber Institute includes a few beautiful paintings from the 19th century, including a very fine Renoir.

A Young Woman Seated by Pierre-Auguste Renoir

This work became know as La Pensée or Thought and was painted around 1876. The soft oranges, reds, greens, and blues are typical of the Impressionist pallette during that period.

Pre-Raphaelites

The Last of England by Ford Madox Brown

One of the Barber Institutes major works is The Last of England by pre-Raphaelite artist Ford Madox Brown. It’s one of the masterworks of Victorian painting and one of the very few pieces in the collection that I was not allowed to photograph. Thank goodness for Wikipedia Commons (see picture below).

The painting depicts a young family huddled together on an open boat on their way to a ship that will take them from England to a new life in the colonies. The resigned expressions on their faces as they leave behind their home is caught with painstaking detail.

Ford Madox Brown, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Barber Institute of Fine Arts Practical Information

The Barber Institute of Fine Arts is located on the campus of the University of Birmingham and is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 to 17:00. Admission is free.

Strolling Around the Canals

I took an Uber back to my hotel and went for a stroll along the canals in the area immediately adjacent to Gas Street Basin (#3) where I was staying. Restaurants and upscale pubs line the canals which were teeming with people enjoying the Bank Holiday Sunday.

The prevailing atmosphere was prosperous, cheerful, and incredibly diverse. Everyone seemed to be under forty, many pushing strollers. People from all over the world have made Birmingham their home, which rivals London for the diversity of its population.

What Else to See and Do in Birmingham

With only a day to spare, I didn’t have time to enjoy all the delights of Birmingham. Here are some suggestions if you have some extra hours. I particularly recommend the walking tours.

Where to Stay in Birmingham

I recommend staying in the vicinity of the Gas Street Basin, preferably overlooking one of the canals. I stayed in the AC Hotel by Marriott and can recommend it. The room was spacious, the staff friendly and helpful, and the large bar very comfortable. Also, the location overlooking the Gas Street Basin can’t be beat. Right outside your door are plenty of restaurants and cafes.

Here are some other options:

Booking.com

Conclusion

Have you visited Birmingham? Any suggestions for what to see and do? Share in the comments below.

Here are more posts about cool places to visit in England;

Yorkshire: Plenty of Variety for the Artsy Traveler

October 11, 2022January 24, 2023Destinations, England carolcram Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 24th, 2023 at 07:37 pm

I first visited Yorkshire in 1974 at the age of eighteen during my epic around-England-by-train journey with two friends (read about that trip!). The wonderful town of York quickly became our favorite because there was so much to see and do, even back in the 1970s. It’s a tourist town with several noteworthy sites including the incomparable York Minster, the York Castle Museum, and the Jorvick Viking Centre.

York also makes an excellent home base from which to explore Yorkshire. As England’s largest county (by far), Yorkshire is otherwise known as God’s Country by the locals. I have a special affinity to Yorkshire. My grandmother was born in Masham in Yorkshire and often talked fondly of her early years there, and I’ve set my fifth novel there.

In this post, I detail what to see in York and describe two full-day, small-group tours I took in 2022. As I’ve mentioned elsewhere on Artsy Traveler, I’m a big fan of small-group day tours. The two I took from York were first-rate.

York

York Minster dominates the walled city of York. A tourist mecca with plenty of shops and services for visitors, it’s also small enough to walk around easily. I recommend staying for at least two nights (and preferably three).

While in York, I visited the Yorkshire Museum, York Minster, the York Castle Museum, and Jorvick Viking Centre. In addition, I took a shamble through the Shambles and enjoyed three excellent meals.

Here are a few other tours in York offered by Get Your Guide, a company I’ve taken tours with and can recommend.

Yorkshire Museum

The Yorkshire Museum is located in the Museum Gardens, which is about a 10-minute walk from the York Railway station next to the river and from the Bootham Gate leading into the ancient center of York where York Minster is located.

The museum itself is small and probably only worth a visit if the special exhibition interests you. When I visited, an informative exhibition about the Ryedale Hoard was featured. The Ryedale Hoard is a collection of bronze Roman objects discovered by detectorists in North Yorkshire in 2020. A small bronze bust of the Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius is the centerpiece of the collection.

The small bronze bust of the Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius, part of the Ryedale Hoard in the Yorkshire Museum — The small bronze bust of the Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius, part of the Ryedale Hoard

The exhibition also includes other Roman objects and interesting descriptions of who might have buried the hoard—A priest? A landowner? A metalworker? And why? That’s the Ryedale Hoard mystery.

As well, the museum features a Jurassic exhibition and plenty of medieval and Roman objects. It’s definitely worth a quick visit if you’re into history, archaeology, and geology (and who isn’t?).

Yorkshire Museum Practical Information

The Yorkshire Museum is open Tuesday – Sunday from 11 am to 5 pm. Admission is £8 online / £8.75 walk-up price for Adults and Seniors; £4 online / £4.40 walk-up price for children ages 5-16; and £7.20 / £7.90 walk-up price for Students/Young People. The website advises booking online prior to visiting the museum.

York Minster

The headliner in York is York Minster, and no wonder! The magnificent cathedral dominates the skyline of York for miles around. I’ve visited York several times, and I still got a thrill every time I turned a corner and saw the Minster’s towers poking the sky between the buildings.

Interior looking toward the altar of York Minster in Yorkshire

You’ll pay an admission fee to enter the Minster, but it’s money well spent. A big reason for the entrance fee is that it apparently costs £22,000 a day to keep the Minster open and operating. If you have time, visit around 5 pm to enjoy Evensong during which the choir sings accompanied by the organ–guaranteed to give you chills!

One of the coolest things about York Minster is how the facade changes with the light. I took a lot of pictures during my three-day stay. Every time I was in the vicinity of York Minster, it looked different! Here are two views.

York Minster facade on a bright sunny day with a blue sky — Bright sunny day

For more information about York Minster, check out this post about 18 Incredible York Minster Facts.

York Minster Practical Information

York Minster is open Monday to Saturday from 9:30 am to 4 pm and on Sunday from 12:45 pm to 3:15 pm. Online ticket prices are Adult/Senior – £12.50; Students (not studying in York) – £9.50; Child (16 and under)* – free with a paying adult; York resident/York student – free with proof of address. Check the York Minster website to buy tickets online and also to check times for Evensong.

York Castle Museum

York Castle Museum is one of my favorite all-round cool museums in Britain. You can spend hours here prowling through the many exhibits designed to bring history to life.

I particularly enjoyed the re-creations of rooms from past eras. Here are two of them.

View of a reconstructed 17th century view featured at the York Castle Museum in York, Yorkshire — 17th Century

View of a reconstructed Victorian siting room featured at the York Castle Museum in York, Yorkshire — 19th Century

Another favorite room features costumes dating from the early 19th century to the present day. I got a kick out of this coat from the early 1970s, which is very similar to one I owned in 1974 when I was a student at Reading University!

1960s style coat on display at the York Castle Museum — Throwback time!

I spent quite a bit of time watching videos that bring to life the differences between work in the “olden” days and now. Two people–one from modern times and one from the early 1900s–spoke about their jobs. A maid in a country house talked with a cashier in a modern supermarket; a bank clerk from 1900 talked with a modern office worker, and so on. I was fascinated and had to watch all of the variations! The nature and quantity of work certainly has changed over the centuries.

One area of the museum is devoted to displaying full-size recreated streets from the early 20th century. Costumed guides happy to share their knowledge staff many of the shops.

View of a late 19th century street, a reconstruction in the York Castle Museum in York — View of a late-19th-century street, a reconstruction in the York Castle Museum in York

York Castle Museum Practical Information

The York Castle Museum is open Monday from 11 am to 5 pm and Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 5 pm. Admission is £13 online / £14 walk-up price for Adults and Seniors; £6.50 online / £7 walk-up price for children ages 5-16; and £11.70 / £12.60 walk-up price for Students/Young People. The website advises booking online prior to visiting the museum.

Jorvik Viking Centre

The Jorvik Viking Centre is touted as a major attraction in York and for good reason. It’s kind of cheesy, to be honest, but it’s still worth visiting to get a sense of what life was like back in the 800s when York was a Viking town.

After arriving at the Jorvik Viking Centre, I boarded a slow-moving, Disney-style ride (think It’s a Small World) and was whisked (slowly) away on a journey through a Viking town. Commentary is available in multiple languages. The dioramas and figures are life-like and give a pretty good sense of how the world might have looked back in the day. All that’s missing are the smells!

I enjoyed the ride and the displays afterwards. Good-humored, costumed guides occasionally give demonstrations of various Viking crafts. A real Viking village was probably not quite so jolly.

Costomed Viking woman with child next to a vegetable stall at the Jorvik Viking Center in York in Yorkshire — Viking mum and child with vegetables

Jorvik Viking Centre Practical Information

The Jorvik Viking Centre is usually open from 10 am to 6 pm. Check the website for varying hours depending on the time of year. The Centre is a very popular tourist destination. Book your visit a few days in advance to select the time you want to visit and also avoid disappointment. Popular time slots sell out quickly. Admission is £13.50 for Adults; £9.50 for children ages 5-16 accompanied by an adult; £11.50 for students with valid student ID, and £11.50 for seniors 60+. Visit the website to book online.

The Shambles

The Shambles is a touristy but still fun street in York. Although only a block long, the street is one of the few remaining in Britain that retains its medieval character. Buildings jut out over the narrow street which is more like an alleyway.

Capitalizing on the Harry Potter franchise, the street contains several “magic” stores. The area is worth a quick walk through, preferably in the evening after the crowds of tourists have somewhat dissipated.

The Shambles street--a narrow medieval street in York — The Shambles in York

Harry Potter-like shop in York — Harry Potter spin-off shop

Yorkshire Moors Tour

I signed up for a full-day tour of the moors with Grand Yorkshire Tours. Called “Steam Trains, Whitby & the Moors”, the tour promises a full day with no more than seven people in a small minivan. Hotel pickup and steam train tickets are included.

At exactly 9 am, as promised, the driver pulls up in front of Jorvik House Hotel and I jump into the minivan where my six companions are already settled: a couple from Florida, a man from Colorado Springs, another couple from Cheltenham in the UK, and a woman from Tunisia who has lived for many years in the US.

And me, as usual the lone Canadian.

Our driver, Peter, is a Yorkshire native who takes us on a comprehensive tour through several of Yorkshire’s scenic hot spots. Yorkshire is so large that I book another tour for the following day that features the Yorkshire Dales because the itineraries are completely different.

Helmsley

Our first stop is the idyllic little town of Helmsley on the edge of the North York Moors National Park where our driver is from. He advises us to take the iconic shot of the church (see below), which I of course do.

With my touristic duty done, I take stock of Helmsley’s many scrummy-looking bakeries and tea shops. I try to resist the siren call of the scones, but in vain. I buy two. One is chock-a-block with candied fruit and the other packed full of cheese.

Both are achingly fresh and fluffy and buttery.

Yorkshire Moors

We drive up into the Yorkshire moors and learn about the history of the area—from Romans to Vikings to the Middle Ages and then the reformation which certainly caused a lot of damage to local monasteries and churches. The views are stunning.

I’m lucky to be visiting at the tail end of heather season. Clumps of vivid purple carpet large swathes of the brown moors. Every so often, a sheep wanders by. As Peter says, we are driving through their home since most sheep live on the moors year round.

The author Carol Cram on the Yorkshire moors — Carol Cram on the Yorkshire Moors

I learn that heather moorland is rare compared to other types of land. One of the world’s largest continuous expanses of upland heather moorland is in the North York Moors.

A man talking about moorland on a hill overlooking a spectacular view of moors in Yorkshire — Peter, the guide on Grand Yorkshire Tours, talk about moorland and heather

I also learn that the moors are actually man-made. The landscape looks so wild that it’s hard to believe it hasn’t always looked that way. But nope. As early as the Iron Age 4,000 years ago, people were wanting to farm crops and pasture animals.

They cut down the vast forests that had covered the area to make clearings for farms. As the population grew, the forests diminished until by the Middle Ages, most of the woodland had disappeared.

Here’s a video shot atop the Yorkshire moors. Spectacular!

Whitby

The seaside town of Whitby is a revelation. The only thing I know about Whitby is that it’s on the sea. As a result, I’m pleasantly surprised to discover a fabulous abbey perched high on cliffs overlooking the sparkling blue North Sea, a charming old town, the best fish and chips in the UK (their claim and it seems valid), a Captain Cook Museum, and a major connection to Dracula.

Goths Rule in Whitby

Wander the streets of Whitby and you’ll eventually come across young women (and sometimes men) dressed head to toe in artfully tattered black clothes and wearing heavy black make-up and an earnest expression. You’ll be right to presume they are visiting Whitby because of the Dracula connection.

Twice I pass a family that makes me smile. Mum and Dad are typical middle-class English folks—the kind of conservatively dressed, comfortable-looking people you see every day. Their daughter, however, wears a long black gown (tattered, of course), carries a black parasol, and is wearing the most outlandish black eye make-up I’ve ever seen. The three of them wander around the Abbey ruins and then later I see them in the town enjoying fish and chips. The daughter’s appearance barely merits the occasional glance from passersby.

Bram Stoker & Whitby

Bram Stoker arrived in Whitby in July of 1890. The windswept headland and spooky abbey ruins combined with the atmospheric old town and North Sea views were ripe for exploiting by an over-active imagination (which Stoker had in spades).

Black and white photograph of Bram Stoker who spent time in Whitby, Yorkshire where he was inspired to write Dracula — Bram Stoker – Wikipedia

He hung around the town for a few weeks presumably enjoying the sea air before fate stepped in. Stoker visited the local library and discovered a book published in 1820 that recorded the experiences of William Wilkinson, a British consul in Bucharest. While traveling in Wallachia and Moldavia (now in Romania), Wilkinson learned about Vlad Tepes, a charming fellow known as Dracula, aka “son of the dragon.” He had a not-so-charming habit of impaling his enemies on wooden stakes.

Anyway, Bram Stoker’s imagination went into overdrive and 130 years later, heavily gothed-up young people take day trips to Whitby to wander the Abbey ruins, presumably with vampiric intentions, and then descend the 199 steps to the old town to enjoy fish and chips followed by teeth-breaking encounters with pieces of Whitby rock (an iconic hard candy with a vivid pink coating).

Whitby Abbey

Peter drops us off at the Abbey and advises us to walk down the 199 steps to the town and meet him two hours later at the train station. The weather obliges with brilliant blue skies against which the Abbey ruins photograph beautifully. I wander around the ruins for a while, dodging the occasional Goth girl, and have a quick look in the museum.

A stunning location for Whitby Abbey in Yorkshire

I read that on May 26, 2022, which is the 125^th anniversary of Bram Stoker’s novel Dracula, 1,369 vampires showed up to celebrate. The event was billed as the largest gathering of people dressed as vampires in the world. Now that’s an event to really get your teeth into.

The first Whitby Abbey was a 7^th-century Christian monastery that later became a Benedictine abbey. It was a major center of learning for about 800 years until it was confiscated and then destroyed by Henry VIII during the dissolution of the monasteries (1536-1545). Henry certainly was busy in the area.

Descending 199 Steps to the Old Town of Whitby

I am glad to be descending the steps rather than ascending. Many more people are climbing up and I’m a bit alarmed by the look of some them as, red-faced and panting, they struggle up the stairs.

Every few feet, I pause to snap yet another gorgeous photo until finally I’m walking along the narrow, twisty streets of the old town.

View of a large stone cross and the North Sea beyond from Whitby in Yorkshire — Looking out over a graveyard in Whitby

The Captain Cook Memorial Museum is nearby but, cognizant of the need to have lunch and then be on time for the bus, I reluctantly pass on it. I head across the bridge to the new town and buy a take-away of fish and chips.

Eating in Whitby

I’ve never seen so many fish and chips shops, ice cream parlors, and candy stores in one place in my life. And business is brisk. Although it’s the day after the Monday bank holiday, the streets are packed with holiday makers.

For just £8.50 (including a can of pop), my lunch is an amazing bargain. The piece of haddock is huge and absolutely the best I’ve ever tasted. Crunchy light batter coats a thick piece of meaty white haddock that tastes light and of the sea. Marvelous!

I settle on to a bench alongside the harbor and watch the world go by as I enjoy my fish and chips. Judging from the conversations I overhear, pretty much everyone is local. And almost everyone has a dog—from whippets and dachshunds to spaniels and labs and everything in between.

A medium portion of fish and chips in Whitby

Taking the Steam Train

After Whitby, our next stop is tiny Goathland station, made famous in the Harry Potter movies as the location of Hogsmeade station. Part of the tour includes a one-hour ride on the steam train that journeys along the North Yorkshire Moors Railway to the town of Pickering.

Unfortunately, an exceedingly dry summer has resulted in a ban on steam engines. Apparently, they pose a fire hazard. As a result, the carriages are drawn by a common-or-garden diesel engine which is a bit of a disappointment but can’t be helped.

Here is the train pulling into the station–a video that would be a bit more dramatic if the train was the regular steam train, but you get the idea.

Train pulling into Goathland Station in Yorkshire

The journey takes us through dark forests and across wide expanses to purple heather and dry yellow grasses. I marvel at the quantity of wild land in such a crowded country.

Church of St. Peter and St. Paul in Pickering

Our last stop before driving back to York is the Church of St. Peter and St. Paul, a typical small parish church with a not-so-typical interior. The original Norman church was built around 1140 and then in 1450 a series of colorful medieval wall murals were painted.

Back in the day, the walls of most churches were filled with colorful paintings depicting Biblical scenes for the vast majority of parishioners who could not read. Come the Reformation and then the Civil War, religious types with different views whitewashed the paintings.

In 1852, the paintings were revealed; however, the vicar at the time apparently did not want the paintings shown, saying that “As a work of art [they are] fairly ridiculous, would excite feelings of curiosity, and distract the congregation.”

I’ll bet he wasn’t a lot of fun at a party.

He ordered the paintings be re-covered with a thick yellow wash that was finally removed in the 1880s and 1890s. The resulting paintings, while extensively damaged, are a fabulous example of how most church interiors originally looked. Unfortunately, only about five churches in the country still have their original murals, with the ones in St. Peter and St. Paul being of particularly fine quality.

A Hidden Gem

For the wandering Artsy Traveler, the paintings are a hidden gem. Peter tells us that almost no one knows about the paintings. One of the many benefits of taking small-group tours is the chance to explore such off-the-beaten-path sites.

Return to York

We drive back to York and I enjoy a first-rate pub meal at The House of the Trembling Madness. I love this place! The upstairs room in the medieval building dates from the 12st century and has all the heavy wooden beams and stuffed critters on the walls to prove it. I order the Yorkshire Platter and am in heaven.

A walls of heads in the House of the Trembling Madness pub in York — A walls of heads in the House of the Trembling Madness pub

Platter of food - ham, cheeses, pickles — An amazing Yorkshire Platter

Yorkshire Dales Tour

I choose a different company for my second tour of Yorkshire—this time of the Yorkshire Dales with Mountain Goat Tours. Like the Go Cotswolds tour, the Mountain Goat tours use 16-seater minibusses which are small enough to navigate the tiny mountain roads we’ll traverse during the course of the day.

16-seater bus owned by Mountain Goat Tours — Mountain Goat Tours 16-seater bus

Matt, our guide and driver, is friendly, knowledgeable, and very enthusiastic about responsible tourism. He tells us that he’s doing his master’s degree in tourism management and has been conducting tours with Mountain Goat for several years. The company provides day tours in scenic areas all over the north including the Lake District, North Wales, and, of course, Yorkshire.

A Short History of Yorkshire

As we head out of York, Matt gives us a short history of the area, explaining how it was first settled by the Romans and then the Anglo Saxons, the Vikings, and the Normans in 1066. He tells us about the Harrying of the North, which I’d never heard of even though I lived in Durham, which is pretty close to York, for a year in the 1970s.

After conquering southern England, William the Conqueror turned his attention to subjugating the North. The people of the North were none too pleased and had the nerve to rebel against William. He retaliated with swift brutality by using scorched earth tactics to destroy the northern shires, particularly in the city of York. Even for the time, William’s viciousness was breathtaking.

Harrying of the North

After the tour, I go online to learn more about the Harrying of the North and read this account by Orderic Vitalis, a contemporary chronicler. In 1069, he wrote:

“Nowhere else had William shown so much cruelty. Shamefully he succumbed to this vice, for he made no effort to restrain his fury and punished the innocent with the guilty. In his anger he commanded that all crops and herds, chattels and food of every kind should be brought together and burned to ashes with consuming fire, so that the whole region north of the Humber might be stripped of all means of sustenance. In consequence so serious a scarcity was felt in England, and so terrible a famine fell upon the humble and defenceless populace, that more than 100,000 Christian folk of both sexes, young and old alike, perished of hunger.” Source

No wonder that to this day people in the north are often not terribly keen on southerners!

Masham

Our first stop is the town of Masham, a market town where the smell of beer brewing in the local breweries hangs in the air and the attractive town square is lined with stone buildings that look unchanged for a century or two.

Stone houses in Masham in Yorkshire — Typical housing in Masham

My grandmother was born in Masham in 1906 so visiting it has a special significance. Her family left soon after she was born (they moved a lot) so my grandmother likely never knew much about the place.

I stand in the middle of the market square and try to imagine my great-grandmother holding my grannie in one arm while she held the hand of my great-aunt. The town now is marketed as a good home base for touring the Yorkshire dales, but back in my granny’s time I think it must have been quite bleak.

Jervaulx Abbey

Matt takes us to lovely Jervaulx Abbey, a hauntingly beautiful place privately owned and maintained by the Burdon family. The Abbey, like all the abbeys in the area, was plundered and pillaged during the Dissolution of the Monasteries in the 16th century.

The ruins are charmingly untouched, with wild flowers, shrubs and trees growing freely in a peaceful country setting.

Bolton Castle

Another quick stop at Bolton Castle gives me just enough time to make the acquaintance of some wild boars who don’t look very wild. As I approach their enclosure, they barely twitch a whisker. And then I take out a bag of crisps and the sound wakes up several of them. They charge towards the wire fence, ears perked. I have to tell them no. After staring at me hopefully for a few minutes, they amble back to find the patch of dirt they’d vacated and resume their recumbent positions.

View of Bolton Castle in Yorkshire — Bolton Castle

Mary, Queen of Scots was imprisoned in Bolton Castle along with a large entourage of servants (so she couldn’t have been too deprived) between 1568 and 1579. But her life went from bad to worse following her Bolton Castle stint until finally she was beheaded by order of her cousin Elizabeth I in 1587.

Aysgarth Falls

Next stop is a quick one to view Aysgarth Falls on the River Ure. It’s a spectacular triple flight of waterfalls made famous as the place where Kevin Costner as Robin Hood duels with Little John in Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves.

Hawes

We drive up hill and down dale to the village of Hawes in Wensleydale, home of Wensleydale cheese. Matt drops us at the Wensleydale Creamery where I sample several varieties of cheese and purchase a hunk of Wensleydale along with a package of oatcakes. After cheesing out, I walk down to the village and have lunch at a pub.

There’s not a whole lot to see in Hawes, but it is extremely charming, with the added bonus of being the target of the Hawes Yarn Bombers. The fruits of the crochet labors are all over the town and include a large tableau of crocheted characters from Shrek. I text pictures to my daughter Julia who is also a crochet artist.

Butter Tubs Pass

Matt drives us up very narrow roads to enjoy stunning vistas of the Yorkshire countryside. What a place! We stop briefly at Butter Tubs Pass that crosses high moorland between Wensleydale and Swaledale. The limestone potholes known as the butter tubs are so named because farmers on their way to market would stop on hot days at the top of the climb and lower their tubs of butter into the limestone potholes to keep the butter cool.

Here’s a video taken at the top of the pass showing both the Yorkshire moors and the Yorkshire dales. Pretty darned spectacular!

Leeth

The picture-perfect little town of Leeth is our final stop. Matt advises us to get ice cream made at a local creamery. My cone of honeycomb and ginger ice cream tastes as good as it sounds.

I shoot this video while standing on the village green (and holding my ice cream cone):

Recommended Yorkshire Tours

I wholeheartedly recommend the tours I took with these two companies:

Both companies provided good value for money, excellent guides, scenic drives, and well-planned stops.

Here are two more tours offered by Tiqets.com, one of my affiliates. If you click on one of the links and end up taking a tour with Tiqets.com (any tour), I get a small commission.

Conclusion

My two full days and three nights in York come to a close as I board the train for a quick trip north to Durham where I will spend three nights. Have you visited York and Yorkshire? What suggestions do you have for enjoying this glorious area of England? Please share in the the Comments below.

Here are more posts about traveling in England:

Stratford-upon-Avon: A Must-Stop for the Artsy Traveler

September 30, 2022March 11, 2023Destinations, England carolcram 1 Comment

Last updated on March 11th, 2023 at 09:08 pm

Stratford-upon-Avon is about a two-hour train journey from London and a perfect first stop after visiting the capital.

Stay at least one night (preferably two) and be sure to get tickets for a performance by the Royal Shakespeare Company (RSC).

On my recent trip in 2022, I stayed one night in Stratford-upon-Avon, saw a performance of Richard III (more on this in a minute!) and then the next day took a full-day, small-group tour of the Cotswolds with Go Cotswolds before hopping on the train to Birmingham for two nights. Read about my wonderful day out with Go Cotswolds.

In this post, I share my almost-50-year love affair with Stratford-upon-Avon along with tips about what to see and do based on my trip there in August 2022.

Getting to Stratford-upon-Avon

I rose early and took a taxi from Wilde Aparthotels to Marylebone Station. I had to change trains at Solihul, which turned out to be a small station surrounded by countryside. The minute I stepped off the train to wait on the platform for the train to Stratford-upon-Avon, I was subsumed by a massive dose of nostalgia.

The smell and sound of the English countryside took me back to 1974. I was 18 again, inhaling the earthy odors of a deciduous forest as I walked through on the campus of the University of Reading on my way to lectures, hearing the same bird song, excited and a little nervous—a stranger in a new land.

England, pleasant England.

View of the river Avon in Stratford-upon-Avon in England — Pleasant English countryside – the River Avon in Stratford-upon-Avon

I felt like all the years in between had disappeared because inside I felt exactly the same now as I was then. All that’d changed was an accumulation of memories and people like my husband who hadn’t existed for me in 1974 and my daughter who hadn’t existed at all.

I decided that my 18-year-old self should feel good about how her life is turning out. Sure, I haven’t won an Oscar for a movie based on one of my novels (a girl can dream!), but I’m totally okay with that. If my 18-year-old self knew what I know now, she would be too.

My First Visit to Stratford-upon-Avon

I boarded the train to Stratford-upon-Avon and more memories flooded in. On each of my last three trips to the UK, I’ve included a night in Stratford-upon-Avon because, well, Shakespeare. Attending a performance at the Royal Shakespeare Company is a must.

I first visited Stratford-upon-Avon in 1970 when I was 14 and traveling with my mom. We went to a performance at the Royal Shakespeare Company theatre. As an English teacher, Mom was determined to expand my horizons, for which I am eternally grateful.

Carol Cram in front of the RSC theatre in Stratford-upon-Avon — In front of the RSC theatre in Stratford-upon-Avon

We saw Two Gentlemen of Verona which is one of Shakespeare’s least memorable plays. The only thing I remembered all these years later was the small swimming pool set into the stage. I’d never see anything like it! Every so often, an actor would slip into the pool and splash about.

Unfortunately, Mom and I visited Stratford-upon-Avon only a few days after landing in the UK and jet lag prevailed. I remember a lot of head bobbing as I tried to stay awake to see the next time someone got wet.

RSC Performances at Stratford-upon-Avon

Since that first performance, I’ve been to Stratford-on-Avon quite a few times. For three years, from 1974 to 1977, I attended the University of Reading where I studied English Literature. Stratford-on-Avon is about a two-hour drive from Reading, so my friends and I frequently drove up to catch a performance. I remember seeing Henry V, King Lear (fabulous storm scene!), and A Winter’s Tale. I’m sure there were others, but they are lost to memory now.

In 1999, Julia (aged 14 at the time) and I went to see Romeo and Juliet starring David Tennant of Doctor Who fame (among many other memorable roles) as Romeo. We didn’t know who he was at the time, but I do remember the production being wonderful. Listening to actors from the RSC doing Shakespeare is like watching cut glass sparkle in the air. Every word, every gesture, every raised eyebrow is precise and perfect.

Hamlet in 2008

Another memorable visit was in 2008 when Julia and I saw Hamlet starring David Tennant, who was by then famous. Julia even got his autograph following the performance.

And so I returned to Stratford-upon-Avon in 2022, this time to see Richard III. I can’t say it’s my favorite play, being rather too full of dead bodies for my taste. But it was the only play being performed on the only date I could be in Stratford-upon-Avon.

Also, I knew it would be well done.

Touring Stratford-upon-Avon with the Bard

But first, I needed to spend an afternoon with the Bard himself. I signed up for a two-hour tour of Stratford-upon-Avon led by Shakespeare (well, a guy dressed like Shakespeare!). At 2 pm, I joined four other people outside Tudor World on Sheep Street and met our guide. Here’s the link to the tour (highly recommended).

He was crude, lewd, and a lot of fun. He also had a wealth of knowledge about his life back in the day, particularly the portion spent in Stratford-upon-Avon. As the son of a tanner who was also the mayor, young Will received an excellent education. His is not a rags to riches story.

Tudor Wolrd Guide dressed as Shakespeare in front of "Dad's House" - his birthplace in Stratford-upon-Avon — Shakespeare in front of “Dad’s House” – his birthplace in Stratford-upon-Avon

“Dad’s House” and Others in Stratford-upon-Avon

Over the next two hours, Shakespeare took us to various sites around town including “Dad’s house” as he called it (his birthplace) and the houses of his two grown daughters, one of whom married a nice guy and the other who didn’t. We also saw his grammar school and the site of the house he built after retiring to Stratford-upon-Avon an exceedingly rich man.

Guide dressed as Shakespeare in front of a Tudor house in Stratford-upon-Avon — Shakespeare in front of one of his daughter’s houses in Stratford-upon-Avon

Along the way, Shakespeare kept up a constant commentary full of tidbits of knowledge about Elizabethan life (a smelly time indeed) and about Shakespeare’s life.

Shakespeare’s Final Resting Place

We ended the tour in the churchyard where Shakespeare (minus his head apparently) is buried. The church was closed, but we wandered around the tombstones, several of which are fake. Shakespeare told us that back in the Victorian era, some enterprising busy bodies decided that the churchyard needed more gravestones for the mist to swirl around on spooky winter nights. So they had a bunch made and stuck them in willy nilly (some almost on top of real graves) all over the churchyard. Apparently, they are easy to spot since everyone commemorates either William or Elizabeth. Bit of a giveaway.

Churchyard at the Stratford-upon-Avon church where Shakespeare is buried

At the end of the tour, I chatted with the guide and told him about my third novel, The Muse of Fire. Since it’s about the theater and includes a lot of Shakespeare, I figured he might enjoy it. He promised to download it on his Kindle. I wonder if he did!

Enjoying Stratford-upon-Avon

There’s really not a whole lot to see in Stratford-upon-Avon. You can tour Shakespeare’s birthplace and go to Anne Hathaway’s Cottage, but both feel a tad on the touristy side. I prefer taking the Tudor World tour which yes, is also touristy, but you’ll learn a lot and get a good feel for the town.

I suggest spending time just wandering around the town, which is not large. Stop in at Romeo & Gelato for an ice cream and, if the market is on, browse the stalls to buy knickknacks and gourmet food. I bought a large chocolate cookie that took me two days to eat.

Take a walk alongside the River Avon to enjoy the views. The place really is postcard-perfect.

Yes, it’s a real shop window in Stratford-upon-Avon

Row boats on the river Avon in Stratford-upon-Avon — Each row boat is named after a different Shakespeare heroine

A good stop for photo ops is the collection of statues near locks in the middle of Stratford-upon-Avon. On an early morning walk, I snapped these photos.

Statue of Shakespeare in Stratford-upon-Avon

Statue of the ill-fated Lady Macbeth in Stratford-upon-Avon

Attending an RSC Performance

At just after 7 pm, I arrived at the RSC theater for the 7:30 performance. The first thing I saw upon entering the narrow lobby was a massive poster of David Tennant decked out as Richard II. I texted a photo to Julia who was just starting her workday back in Vancouver and learned that yes, she’d seen the production streamed.

I found my seat, took a picture of the stage, and got to know my neighbor, a lady from Cheltenham who used to be a teacher. After retiring at the age of 50, she lived for 25 years in the Dordogne area of France. As fellow teachers (I trained in England in 1979) and lovers of France, we had lots to talk about.

Richard III

The production of Richard III was predictably amazing. The sumptuous costumes, stark set, skillful blocking and, of course, superb acting all added up to a masterful production.

Of particular note was the actor playing Richard III, surely one of the most difficult roles to make relatable. Arthur Hughes managed it, first by being very funny. It’s hard to completely hate someone who makes us laugh. Hughes found comic moments throughout the play. Even at his most vile (and Richard gets pretty vile), Hughes was utterly compelling. Every time he strode on stage, he commanded attention.

Set of Richard III at the RSC theatre in Stratford-upon-Avon — Set of *Richard III* at the RSC theatre in Stratford-upon-Avon

And the second reason why the performance was so memorable was that Arthur Hughes was the first disabled actor the RSC has cast as Richard III. He describes himself as “limb different” as a result of a rare condition known as radial dysplasia. He has no thumb or radius bone in his right arm. Hughes’s lived experience of disability brought an immediacy to his portrayal of Richard that I’d never seen before. He was not pretending like so many actors; he knows. Here’s an interview with Arthur Hughes on the BBC website.

All in all, the production was a tour de force.

And if you are lucky enough to take in an RSC performance, get the ginger ice cream at the interval. It is to die for!

Visiting Stratford-upon-Avon

Stratford-upon-Avon is a tourist town and as such is well-endowed with restaurants and places to stay. If you can, stay the night. Strolling along the canal after an RSC performance that has just blown your mind is a stellar artsy traveler experience!

Eating in Stratford-upon-Avon

Both meals I enjoyed in Stratford-upon-Avon wee first rate! The first was a lunch consisting of two appetizers–a paté and chicken tenders. Both were superb, particularly when accompanied by a lager and eaten in a lovely old pub overlooking the canal.

Stratford-upon-Avon has several pubs and restaurants; you won’t have trouble finding a good meal. I can also recommend the Dirty Duck where many years ago I ate dinner while visiting Stratford-upon-Avon with my brother. Passing it on an early morning walk brought back many memories of our visit and attending a performance of A Winter’s Tale way in 1975.

Sign for the Dirty Duck pub in Stratford-upon-Avon — The Dirty Duck in Stratford-upon-Avon

Welcome chalkboard for the Dirty Duck pub in Stratford-upon-Avon — Welcome to the Dirty Duck

I enjoyed dinner at the Pen & Parchment Inn where I also stayed. The fish and chips (but with salad instead of chips!) were fresh and flavorful. The Inn itself retained just enough of a hint of stale cigarette smoke in the air to remind me of my misspent youth.

Staying in Stratford-upon-Avon

I stayed at the Pen & Parchment Inn which is also a pub (and where I ate dinner). It’s very conveniently located on the canal and within sight of the Royal Shakespeare Company theatre. You can walk to the theatre in about five minutes. My room was small but comfortable and the people were very helpful. I’d recommend the place for a one-night stop. It’s quite reasonably priced (for Stratford-upon-Avon).

Pen & Parchment Inn in Stratford-upon-Avon

For other accommodation options in Stratford-upon-Avon, click the map below:

Booking.com

Tours in and around Stratford-upon-Avon

Conclusion

A visit to Stratford-upon-Avon, particularly if you can attend a performance at the RSC, is artsy traveling at its finest! You get to enjoy Shakespeare performed by the best of the best and you get to stroll around one of England’s most attractive towns with plenty of excellent places to eat and stay. It’s a win-win!

Have you visited Stratford-upon-Avon? Share your suggestions and experiences in the Comments below.

Here are some other posts about England:

Exploring the Cotswolds with Go Cotswolds Tours

September 23, 2022May 4, 2024Destinations, England carolcram 2 Comments

Last updated on May 4th, 2024 at 06:30 pm

Although I lived only a few hours from the Cotswolds back in the 1970s, I rarely visited the area and have zero memory of it. I’ve therefore been hankering to tour the Cotswolds for some time now, lured by photos of peaceful villages nestled against chocolate-box perfect country scenes.

A quick Google search in the depths of last winter brought me to the Go Cotswolds website. Their most popular tour is Cotswolds in a Day. At just 50 GBP for a full day, it’s a bargain.

The Go Cotswolds Tour Begins

At precisely 9 am, a sixteen-seater van pulls up in front of the Pen and Parchment Inn in Stratford-upon-Avon where I stayed the night. Out jumps the very friendly and knowledgeable Colin. He’s lived in the Cotswolds for 30 years and obviously loves sharing it with visitors. He stows my luggage in the back (I’m leaving for Birmingham at the end of the tour) and ushers me on to the bus.

Off we go! The Go Cotswolds tour included six stops and many, many miles of scenic driving. Colin keeps up a lively commentary, and at every stop goes out of his way to engage with everyone. He’s one of the best guides I’ve ever experienced.

Map of the Go Cotswolds Tour

Here are the places we visited on the map. It’s amazing how much there was to see in a relatively small geographic area!

Trip map created using Wanderlog, for making itineraries on iOS and Android

Dover Hill

Our first stop is Dover Hill (#1 on the map above) overlooking a stunning view of the Cotswolds over the Vale of Evesham. On a clear day, the view includes the towers of Birmingham and the foothills of the Welsh mountains. A bit of mist on the horizon obscures some of the view, but it’s still amazing.

Colin tells us that this hill is the site of the annual (apart from the past two years) Robert Dover’s Olimpick Games. And yes, Olimpick is how they spell it!

Guide Colin talks about the Olimpick Games on Dover Hill — Guide Colin talks about the Robert Dover’s Olimpick Games on Dover Hill

Events include such quirky activities as shin kicking and cheese rolling. Colin provides lively descriptions and directs us to check out the video proof on YouTube. Here’s a link to one of them.

Colin takes a picture of the tour group on top of Dover Hill before we all pile back into the bus to set off to our next stop.

Go Gotwolds group picture on top of Dover Hill

Chipping Camden

As he skillfully navigates winding country roads, Colin describes how the use of the creamy, butter-colored Cotswolds stone defines the region. In fact, no new buildings may be built out of any other material. The local government carefully controls all development in the area, which has become a very expensive and fashionable area in which to live. We pass many gorgeous homes, some thatched, some with the iconic grey slate roofs. Each is impeccably maintained.

Maintaining Cotswolds Homes

Colin tells us that a friend paid 75,000 GBP to have his home re-thatched (a necessity every few decades). He also explains that a major effort is underway to train a new generation of craftspeople to tend to all the wonderful old homes in the area. Young people are encouraged to enter apprentice programs straight out of school to train for a trade that will pay very well and guarantee a lifetime of work.

As an educator myself, I am heartened to hear about such skills-based programs.

A Walk through Chipping Campden

Chipping Campden (#2) at 10 am is quiet and peaceful. Colin advises us to take a walk to see a selection of thatched-roof cottages. I take his advice and set off. No one else follows so I’m alone for most of the walk.

Thatched roof cottages in Chipping Campden in the Cotswolds — Thatched-roof cottages in Chipping Campden

Birds chirping, sun gently shining, a rainbow of flowers spilling forth from every garden, quaint cottages—all boxes ticked.

The walk takes me in a broad circle that leads back to the main street of Chipping Campden. I wander happily up and down the street, admiring the quirky little shops, stopping at a cute little tea room (all the tea rooms are cute; I think it’s a bylaw) for a milky coffee, and checking out the market hall.

Built in the 17th century to provide shelter for market traders, the National Trust now owns the hall which still shelters traders. When I’m there, the goods on offer are primarily sheepskins.

Snowshill

The tiny village Snowshill (#4) is famous for its gorgeous views and as the setting for an iconic scene in the movie Bridget Jones’s Diary. We are lucky to arrive when no other tourists are around. Unchanged for centuries, the village is a delight. The only sounds are the wind rustling through the trees and the plump cooing of wood pigeons.

I take some shots of the famous village street and hike up a hill to look out over a stunning view of the Severn Vale.

View of the tiny village of Snowshill in the Cotswolds — Lovely Snowshill in the Cotswolds

Nearby is Snowshill Manor, a National Trust property that includes picturesque gardens and an eclectic collection of toys, musical instruments, clocks, bicycles, samurai armour and more. We didn’t visit, but it sounds pretty cool!

Stow-on-the-Wold

More driving along even more achingly adorable country roads brings us to Stow-on-the-Wold (#5), one of the largest towns in the Cotswolds and our lunch stop. The town is thriving as a result of tourism. There’s a surfeit of ancient pubs and more cute tea rooms and plenty of shops, all of which, according to Colin, are independently owned. Franchises such as Starbucks do not exist in Cotswolds villages which makes a nice change.

Lunch at the Oldest Pub in England

I choose to have my lunch at the Porch House, billed as “the oldest pub in England.” I decide to go there after hearing from Colin that it was established in 947. The phone prefix for landlines on Bowen Island where I live is 947. I love the coincidence!

Exterior of Porch House inn - oldest in England

Sign for the Porch House inn - oldest in England

The Waldorf salad I order is very tasty, loaded with a great many satisfying lumps of local blue cheese, crisp green apple slices, candied walnuts and lots of fresh veggies.

I can’t help comparing the food I’m eating in 2022 to what passed for food in the 1970s when lived in England as a student. First off, we never ate in restaurants which was just as well because we had no money and restaurants were very few and far between in those days. And second, the British had a well-deserved reputation for tasteless food.

I remember sharing meals with my flatmates when I was a student at Reading University (1974-77) and everyone oohing and aahing over a “lovely” plate of cauliflower cheese—brown rice cooked until it turned white and lost every iota of texture, cauliflower cooked until it turned grey, and mild white cheddar (no taste whatsoever) melted in great blobs over the whole. Lovely indeed.

St. Edward’s Church in Stow-on-the-Wold

After lunch, I make a quick photo stop at St Edward’s Church to check out a mystical doorway that many say looks like a portal to another realm. J.R.R. Tolkien certainly thought so. Ancient yew trees flank the doorway which allegedly inspired his Doors of Durin in the Lord of the Rings trilogy.

Driving Backcountry Cotswolds

Back on the bus, Colin takes us down even more back country lanes through the Coln Valley on the way to the town of Bilbury which he says will be crowded (he’s right!). But to counteract the crowds to come, he treats us to a long, meandering drive through some of the most idyllic countryside in England. The tiny villages look like they haven’t changed in centuries, which is more or less true. No wonder there’s been an exodus in recent years from the big cities to the countryside with the result that real estate prices in the area are now sky high.

Bilbury

It’s a bank holiday Saturday, and thousands of people have converged upon tiny, sweet little Bilbury (6). Described by William Morris as “the most beautiful village in England,” Bilbury really does put the charm in charming.

Arlington Row in Bilbury

Bilbury’s main claim to scenic fame is the row of cottages known as Arlington Row, reputed to be the most photographed and beautiful cottages in the country. People live in the cottages, which must be a challenge in the summer. Hundreds of visitors file slowly past, each hoping to snap a picture of the row without other visitors in the way.

Arlington Row, a charming group of cottages in Bilbury village in the Cotswolds

It’s an impossible task, although like everyone else, I try.

The cottages date from 1380 when they were built as a monastic wool store. In the 17^th century, the building was converted into a row of weavers’ cottages. A fifteen-minute stroll takes me from the car park alongside the meandering River Coln to the cottages and then back on a lovely shady path next to a boggy water meadow known as Rack Isle. Back in the car park, several ice cream shops beckon. I treat myself to a salted caramel ice cream cone.

Vista of stream and Arlington Row cottages in Bilbury in the Cotswolds — Walking toward Arlington Row in Bilbury

Bourton-on-the-Water

Bilbury is positively empty compared to Bourton-on-the-Water (#7), our next and final stop on the Go Cotswolds tour. It’s yet another gorgeous little village with the added attraction of having a river running through the center of the village. People paddle in the shallow water, stroll across the stone bridges, snap photos, eat ice cream, and generally enjoy a day out in the country.

But is is crowded! Fortunately, Colin offers to take anyone interested on a secret walk that promises to get us well away from the crowds in seconds. About eight of us follow him for what proves to be the highlight of the Go Cotswolds tour (which is saying something).

A Secret Walk in Bourton-on-the-Water

We head down a stone-walled side passage to emerge onto an expansive—and virtually empty—water meadow. Birds chips, the wind whispers, the views are entrancing, the crowds a bad memory. Yep—it’s the full on Cotswolds experience and we have it all to ourselves.

Carol Cram in front of a beautiful home in Bourton-on-the-Water in the Cotswolds — Beautiful home in Bourton-on-the-Water

Colin leads alongside a small stream to the house he promises us we’ll all want to buy. He’s right—it’s an old stone beauty set on a bend in the river and even including a gazebo in its back garden. The next time I have a few million pounds to spare, I know where to spend it.

Crowds at Bourton-on-the-Water in the Cotswolds

End of the Tour

An hour later, Colin drops me at Stratford-upon-Avon (#1) train station for my one-hour journey to Birmingham. My day out in the Cotswolds has been glorious. If you’re short on time and don’t want to drive, consider taking the Cotswolds-in-a-Day tour with Go Cotswolds. It’s a winner.

Here’s a similar tour also conducted by Go Cotswolds:

Have you visited the Cotswolds? Share your experience in the Comments section below.

Here are a few more posts about England:

London in Two-and-a-Bit Days for the Artsy Traveler

September 23, 2022March 11, 2023Destinations, England carolcram 4 Comments

Last updated on March 11th, 2023 at 06:27 pm

Doing London in two days (even with a bit added on after landing on the first day) is kind of insane. London has so much to offer that it deserves a full week. However, on my most recent trip to London in August 2022, I could spare only two days and so I was determined to pack as much artsy sightseeing into my time as possible.

Fortunately, I’ve visited London many times over the years and have seen pretty much all the major sites multiple times. As a result, I decided to visit a few old favorites and explore some new-to-me places. Even if you’ve never visited London, my two-and-a-bit itinerary will give you a good overview of the highlights.

After getting settled at the Wilde Aparthotel (#1: see my review of this highly-recommended hotel in Covent Garden), I set off for my first artsy stop of my London stay—the elegant Courtauld Gallery at Somerset House.

Map of London Sightseeing

Here are the places I visited in London during my whirlwind two-and-a-bit-days trip in August 2022.

Trip map created with Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

Arrival in London: The Bit of My Two-and-a-Bit Days

Courtauld Gallery

I first visited the Courtauld (#2) in the 1970s when I came face to face with what would become my favorite Manet painting—A Bar at the Folies-Bergère. I was only 14 years old, and seeing that painting was pretty much responsible for setting me on a course of art loving that continues to this day.

Why Visit the Courtauld

I recommend visiting the Courtauld (#2) for two reasons. First, the gallery is small enough to be easily enjoyed in an hour or two without taxing your energy and your legs. And second, it’s bursting at the seams with unbelievably awesome works.

I’ve rarely been to an art museum that includes such a thoughtful and exquisitely curated collection of works, from the middle ages to the Impressionists.

In this post, I cover a few highlights. For a more in-depth post about the Courtauld with plenty of examples of works you’ll see there, check out my post Courtauld Gallery in London: A Treasure Trove for the Artsy Traveler.

Highlights of the Courtauld Gallery

The main draw at the Courtauld Gallery is the beautiful collection of Impressionists that includes all the biggies (Monet, Manet, Renoir, Cezanne, van Gogh, etc.). Several very famous pieces are included, such as Manet’s A Bar at the Folies-Bergère and van Gogh’s Peach Trees in Blossom

A Bar at the Folies-Bergère

This painting is one of my favorites, and as I write in my full post on the Courtauld Gallery, seeing it in the early 1970s was one of the experiences that set me up as a life-long art lover.

There’s just something about the way in which the central character stares out at us, the audience, that is so compelling. She’s so bored and yet so vulnerable. You can’t help sympathizing with her and imagining what she’s thinking. It’s probably something along the lines of I wish he’d hurry up and give me his order so I can stop pretending to care.

Peach Trees in Blossom by Vincent van Gogh

My favorite van Gogh paintings are of the landscape around Arles. In fact, the very first van Gogh painting I saw was very similar to this piece in the Courtauld. I was 11 years old, visiting Montreal’s Expo 67 and seeing great art for the first time. The rest, as they say, is history.

Peach Trees in Blossom captures the scene of an open plain outside Arles and was painted in 1889. Vincent wrote to his brother Theo that the blossoms and distant snow-capped mountain reminded him of the cherry trees and Mount Fuji in Japanese prints, of which he was a great collector.

Rest of the Courtauld Gallery Collection

After thoroughly exploring the top floor, I explored the other two floors, both containing many marvelous works. The collection of medieval paintings is one of the best I’ve seen, even in big museums like the Louvre and Vatican.

I ended my joyful visit to the Courtauld with a chat with the friendly attendant in the gift shop. I bought a catalog of the collection and told him how much I loved the Courtauld and how I’d first visited way back in 1970. He was delighted.

Courtauld Gallery Practical Information

The Courtauld Gallery is open Monday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00. Book your ticket in advance on the website to avoid line-ups and to make sure you get in! Check the website also for special exhibitions. The Munch exhibition I saw was worth the extra price.

Getting a Phone Card

I floated out of the Courtauld and headed for a phone store to get a Sim card installed. The attendant was so friendly and helpful. I ended up telling him I write computer books for a living and he thought that was very cool and had all kinds of questions. We also commiserated over the cost of cell service in North America compared to the UK.

I purchased a SIM card good for a full month of unlimited data for just 30 GBP. I didn’t actually need a month, but that was the shortest duration and at that price, I couldn’t lose. It beats the $15 per day I’d have paid to stay with my Rogers SIM card. I wanted to also buy coverage for Europe but was advised to buy a SIM card when I arrive in Amsterdam. He explained my options patiently and without a trace of condescension.

Thank you Vodaphone! I’m a happy customer.

First Night Dinner

Dinner was a plate of smoked salmon and fettucine that was so delicious I wanted to weep all over again. I ate half of it and took the rest back to my room to keep in the fridge until the next day when it tasted just as good.

A plate of fettucine with smoked salmon — Scrumptious dinner in London

To bed at 8:30 pm and Day 1 in the UK came to a peaceful close.

First Full Day in London

I started my day at 7 am with a black coffee at one of the ubiquitous Café Nero’s, this one about ten steps from the front door of the Wilde Aparthotel. To my relief, the coffee was superb. Long gone are the days when the only coffee for sale in the UK was beyond inexecrable. Because I spent my early adult years in England in the 1970s, I didn’t develop a taste for coffee until I was 30. Good strong English tea was my beverage of choice for at least a decade.

After an hour of coffee and writing, I returned to my room in preparation for my first full day in London. Because time was so limited, I made reservations for almost everything I planned to do.

Taking the Uber Boat to the Globe Theatre

First stop was a tour of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre (#3). I walked down to the Thames (about five minutes away) and hopped on the boat that took me downriver to Bankside. The skyline of London was unrecognizable even since my previous trip in 2016. Dozens of new, ultra modern buildings gleamed golden in the early morning sun.

Skyline of London in the early morning sun as seen from the Thames River — Skyline of London in the early morning viewed from the Thames River

Tour of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre

I was early for my tour—the first of the day at 10 am. I had yet another black coffee and eavesdropped on a conversation between three young women who appeared to be about eighteen. One of them loudly informed the others that none of her many boyfriends had ever gotten over her. Currently, she was in the midst of fending off the advances of a boy who kissed her in fourth form (Grade 9) and was spoiled forever for any other girl. Was she arrogant or just supremely self-confident? I couldn’t decide, but I couldn’t help hoping life would treat her well.

At 10 am, I joined about thirty people for the Globe tour. I last visited the Globe in 2007 on a trip with my mother and before that in 2001 with Julia to see a performance of The Tempest starring Vanessa Redgrave as Prospero. Although the hard seats (even with a cushion) and lack of back support somewhat detracted from the experience, I’m glad I had it!

Carol cram in front of Shakespeare's Globe Theatre in London — Outside the Globe Theatre in London

Meeting Our Tour Guide

Our guide joined us—a man in his fifties named Mick. He declared that he is a genuine Cockney and certainly he sounded the part. He was very energetic and obviously loved what he does. The hour-long tour was informative and fun, and in my opinion, well worth the 17 GDP cost.

Outside the Theatre

The tour started outside the theater with Mick telling us why the theaters were built on the south bank of the Thames and not in the city. Apparently, the killjoys in the city didn’t want raucous entertainments sullying the area, and so entrepreneurs like Richard Burbage built the first theatre very close the site of the current Globe. He also talked about Sam Wanamaker, the American billionaire who made construction of the new Globe his life’s work.

Inside the Globe Theatre

We entered the theatre twice—once on the lower level and a second time on the upper level. While on the lower level, Mick provided us with graphic descriptions of the groundlings in Shakespeare’s time. Over 3000 people crammed into a space that now fits 1800 in these days of fire regulations and basic hygiene.

The pit alone, where the groundlings hung out, once fit 1000 people packed in so closely that people could not raise their arms. They were unbathed, boisterous, and very smelly. It cost a penny to get into the pit so if nature called, a groundling urinated in place rather than leave the theatre and then pay another penny to get back in. Shakespeare called the groundlings the penny stinkers.

View of the interior and the stage of the Globe Theatre in London — Inside the Globe Theatre; the stage is set up for a production of *I, Joan*

On the upper level, Mick talked about how the gentry came to the play to see and be seen. When the Globe Theater opened in 1977, it hosted two queens. “Elizabeth I” rode into the pit on a horse and bowed to Elizabeth II seated in the royal box.

I thoroughly enjoyed the tour and recommend it as a must-do for the theatre-loving artsy traveler.

Shakespeare’s Globe Practical Information

The Globe Theatre is open for tours at specific times and pre-booking is essential. Check the website for details and to purchase tickets, preferably well in advance. From the link above, you can choose from a variety of tours. I took the Globe Theatre Guided Tour.

Tate Modern

After my Globe visit, I went next door to the Tate Modern (#4) to check out the surrealist exhibition and to take a quick tour through the permanent collection, which I’ve visited before.

One of Gregg’s paintings from the early 1970s is included in the exhibition catalog, but alas, not in the exhibition itself. The painting is currently in a museum in Spain and thanks to COVID restrictions, it wasn’t sent to London or on to New York, where the exhibition goes next to be shown at the Met.

Display of catalogs for the art exhibition Surrealism Beyond Borders that includes a painting by Gregg Simpson — Display of the catalog for Surrealism Beyond Borders that includes a painting by Gregg Simpson

I have to say that the Surrealism Beyond Borders exhibition was not particularly compelling. The commentary was a bit on the didactic side and the quality uneven. I’m not convinced the exhibition was worth the extra cost for anyone other than a die-hard surrealism fan. I wasn’t even compelled to take pictures!

Tate Modern Permanent Collection

I explored the permanent collection at the Tate and, as I have other times I’ve been here, found it uneven. Some rooms were quick walk-throughs; others were worth lingering in, but none for all that long. There were works by most of the most famous 20th-century artists, including Picasso, Mondrian, Leger, and Matisse, but few really iconic ones.

Here are some of the highlights that attracted me.

Gothic Landscape by Lee Krasner, a painting displayed at the Tate Modern in London — *Gothic Landscape* by Lee Krasner

Lee Krasner was both the partner of Jackson Pollock and an excellent painter in her own right. Works by women are still few and far between in most of the major collections, so I was pleased to see that the Tate included a work by Krasner. Although this piece is an abstract painting, its thick vertical lines are apparently intended to invoke trees with thick knotted roots, hence the title Gothic Landscape.

Sleeping Venue by Paul Delvaux, a painting displayed at the Tate Modern — *Sleeping Venus* by Paul Delvaux

This very famous surrealist work was painted by Delvaux in Brussels during WWII while the city was being bombed. Delvaux said of the painting that “the psychology of that moment was very exceptional, full of drama and anguish. I wanted to express this anguish in the picture, contrasted with the calm of the Venus.” I’d say he succeeded!

I was done in less than an hour. I still prefer the permanent collection of mid-20^th-century masterpieces at the Pompidou in Paris to the collection at the Tate Modern.

But if you’ve never visited, definitely go and have a look. The building–a converted power station–is worth seeing, and the price of admission (free!) is worth the walk. But if you’re not a huge modern art fan, I’d recommend spending your time at the Tate Britain instead, where you’ll find several works by the pre-Raphaelites, among others.

The tower of the Tate Modern soaring into a very blue sky — Tower at the Tate Modern soaring into the blue London sky

Tate Modern Practical Information

The Tate Modern is open from 10:00 to 18:00 every day and admission is free, except for special exhibitions. Check the website for details.

Lunch and the Museum of the Home

The sun shone brilliantly as I walk across the Thames, pausing to take shots of iconic Saint Paul’s Cathedral and the incredibly modern skyline. London sure has changed since I first visited in 1970!

walking across the pedestrian bridge over the Thames in London with Saint Paul's Cathedral in the distance — Saint Paul’s Cathedral viewed from the south bank of the Thames

Old and new buildings in London's financial district — The old and the new in London’s financial district

I stopped at a Wagamama (Asian-inspired chain restaurant) for a quick lunch that turned into a very long lunch because my order was forgotten. When finally I got it, the server had the good grace to not charge me. Needless to say, I won’t be back!

Museum of the Home

I took the bus to the Museum of the Home (#5) in Shoreditch which turned out to be a disappointment probably because I missed most of it by going in what was actually the back door. I saw only a few rooms—from the Victorian era, WW1, the 1930s, the 1950s, and the 1990s. It wasn’t worth the long journey. But whatever. Live and learn.

Traveling by Uber in London

To get back to my hotel, I ordered my first London Uber. Unfortunately, I was in the wrong place so the driver eventually drove past and cancelled on me. Uber sent a new driver who took the time to find me. Omar from Somali turned out to be a big talker—nonstop for the half hour trip. He told me he’s a traditional Muslim, determined that his four children aged 8 to 16 stay on the straight and narrow. He also told me about his business interests in Somalia, his huge extended family, and the recent death of his father.

Back at the Wilde, I had a wee nap and was recharged! Out again at 4 pm, I walked five minutes to the National Gallery.

National Gallery

I love the National Gallery (#6)! I spent an hour wandering from room to room, eyes tearing up as every turn brought new masterpieces before me. All of the biggies from the middle ages to the Impressionists are here. I felt very emotional as I kept coming face to face with so much beloved art while also discovering new pieces to admire.

Here are some highlights.

The Fighting Temeraire by William Turner

The Fighting Temeraire tugged to her Last Berth to be broken up, 1838, by William Turner at the National Gallery in London — *The Fighting Temeraire* by William Turner

When I was growing up, my dad had a print of this famous piece by Turner hanging in his study. It was one of the first works of art I ever saw as a child. I think he purchased it in London in the early 1960s. I always loved looking at the sky, and so wasn’t surprised when as an adult I discovered that Turner was famous for his depiction of light.

The Bathers by Georges Seurat

I’d forgotten this iconic piece by Seurat was in the National Gallery. It dominates a room full of other Impressionist masterpieces. There’s something so itmeless about this piece–people relaxing on a fine summer’s day, each lost in their thoughts. But what is the dog looking at?

The National Gallery includes famous pieces by just about every major European artist, including van Gogh, Monet, Michelangelo, and Vermeer, to name a few. It’s a world-class art museum but not as overwhelming as the Louvre, for example. You can easily see the highlights in about an hour.

National Gallery Practical Information

The National Gallery is open from 10:00 to 18:00 every day and until 21:00 on Friday. Admission is free, except for special exhibitions. Check the website for details.

Dinner and a Show

After enjoying the National Gallery, I lingered awhile to enjoy the view over Trafalgar Square (#7). I was reminded of when I ended up in Trafalgar Square at midnight on New Year’s Eve 1974 when I was eighteen and attending Reading University.

As the year turned to 1975, my friends and I were engulfed by people yelling and celebrating. A very large man grabbed hold of me and kissed me. Needless to say, we quickly escaped. We ran through deserted streets (the tube had already stopped) only to discover that we’d missed the last train back to Surrey where my friend lived.

We ended up spending a cold few hours huddled on a park bench in Green Park. At about 3 am, a bobby came by and ushered us out so the rest of the night was spent in Victoria Station waiting for the first train. I had severe heartburn after sampling my very first Indian curry earlier in the evening, and thought I was dying!

This is Now

My experience of Trafalgar Square on a lovely sunny day in 2022 after swooning over the masterpieces in the National Gallery was a big improvement over New Year’s Eve 1974.

After enjoying Trafalgar Square and my memories, I headed for The Restaurant (that’s its name, really!) for dinner prior to seeing My Fair Lady. I walked past the place three times before finally finding it. I was the only customer for the theater menu—a fabulous chicken terrine for the starter and trout for the main course. The food was absolutely superb and reasonably priced. I couldn’t understand why no one was there.

My Fair Lady

My first show in London! I took my seat in the dress circle and felt very glad I opted to buy a premium seat. My view was perfect.

The show was fabulous (well, of course!). The actor playing Eliza had an amazing voice. She owned the stage every time she opened her mouth. Another stand-out was the actor playing her father Alfred P. Doolittle. The actor playing Higgins managed to escape the shadow of Rex Harrison and was almost sympathetic (no easy matter!). Another stand-out was the actor playing Freddy. He totally killed On the Street Where You Live.

My Fair Lady stands the test of time.

Second Full Day in London

A peal of thunder in the middle of the night heralded a dreary, rainy morning on my second full day in London. I didn’t mind in the least! Armed with a sturdy umbrella provided by the Wilde Aparthotel (I really like this place), I ventured forth (after my coffee at Café Nero) for my first stop of the day—a tour of Westminster Abbey.

Westminster Abbey

I’ve visited Westminster Abbey (#8) several times over the years, and it never fails to impress. I was practically the first person through the door with my pre-purchased ticket for 10 am entry. For almost all of my visit, I had the abbey virtually to myself.

Interior of Westminster Abbey in London facing the altar — Westminster Abbey facing the altar

Each guest is provided with an audio guide and headphones. Since my last visit in 2016, the audio guide has improved significantly. It’s like a mini SmartPhone with a large screen that shows videos to accompany the audio. I listened to and watched every video!

As always, my favorite part of Westminster Abbey is Poet’s Corner. So many great writers are either buried or commemorated there—Chaucer, Milton, Shakespeare, Jane Austen, Dickens… the list goes on. I had the place to myself and spent many happy minutes strolling from plaque to plaque, memorial to memorial.

Memorial to Jane Austen in Poets Corner at Westminster Abbey in London — Jane Austen’s memorial in Poet’s Corner in London’s Westminster Abbey

As I wandered around Westminster Abbey, I didn’t, of course, suspect that in just a few more weeks it would take the world stage as the setting for the Queen’s funeral.

Wallace Collection

After touring Westminster Abbey, I checked out the Wallace Collection (#9), which was new to me. Housed in a magnificent mansion, the Wallace collection is billed as “an internationally outstanding collection which contains unsurpassed masterpieces of paintings, sculpture, furniture, arms and armour and porcelain.”

Yep, that’s about right. I’d rarely seen so much stuff crowded into so many rooms in my life. Wandering through the many, many rooms was kind of like being obliged to eat too much fudge. It’s tasty, sure, but eating too much just kind of makes you feel like you’d rather have toast.

That said, the Wallace Collection is worth a visit, particularly if you’re interested in armor and porcelain. There are numerous magnificent examples.

A statue of a horse with a man in armor as part of the display of armor at the Wallace Collection in London — A display of armor at the Wallace Collection

For me, the special exhibition was more interesting than the permanent collection. Called Inspiring Walt Disney: The Animation of French Decorative Arts, the exhibition illustrated how films such as Cinderella and Beauty and the Beast were heavily inspired by French decorative arts of the 1800s. An excellent audio guide and several animated displays underscored the artistry that went into creating the two iconic films.

One Evening; Two Musicals

With only two full days in London, I opted to cram in three musicals. Fortunately, one of the musicals (Six) started at 5 pm and ran for just 90 minutes so I had time to fit in Jersey Boys, mostly because the Trafalgar Theater is only a five-minute walk from the Vaudeville Theater on the Strand where Six was playing and second, because I’d never seen it (although I did see the movie).

Six: The Musical

Six tells the story of Henry VIII’s six wives – Catherine of Aragon (divorced), Anne Boleyn (beheaded), Jane Seymour (died), Anne of Cleves (divorced), Katherine Howard (beheaded) and Katharine Parr (survived). The “divorced, beheaded, died, divorced, beheaded, survived” riff ran through this exceedingly energetic and highly recommended production.

Each wife—excuse me, each queen—took a turn singing a song to convince us that her life was the saddest of the six. The songs were funny, heartbreaking, poignant, and extraordinarily creative. Outlandish costumes, wacky dancing, and excellent vocals made for a deliciously entertaining 90 minutes.

The six queens in the production of Six take their bows — The six queens in *Six* take their bows

I emerged from the theater refreshed and ready for more.

Jersey Boys

A quick walk down the Strand past Charing Cross brought me to the Trafalgar Theater, which is, not surprisingly, within spitting distance of Trafalgar Square. Unlike for both Six and My Fair Lady, the theater was not full, most likely because the musical has been playing for several years.

Whereas most of the audience for Six were young women under 35, most of the audience for Jersey Boys appeared to be over sixty, hardly surprising considering the subject.

My seat was cheek-by-jowl with a large English man—a Cockney from London he informed me. Although friendly and chatty, he had a habit of overflowing into my space. Fortunately, several seats to my immediate left were empty so at the interval, I shifted over. I don’t think he was offended, although we never spoke again after I shifted.

Jersey Boys tells the story of Frankie Valli, the falsetto crooner famous for such hits as Sherry, Can’t Take My Eyes Off of You, Walk Like a Man, Big Girls Don’t Cry, and Rag Doll. It was a walk down memory lane for we over-60s and very enjoyable. The actor who played Frankie Valli was fabulous. How he managed to belt those falsetto songs out night after night amazed me. My vocal cords hurt just listening to him.

After two shows, I was famished (no time for dinner!) and so I stopped by one of the many Italian eateries for a plate of shrimp sauteed with peppers (so good and fresh). It was then home to bed and the end of my London adventure.

Conclusion

Have you traveled to London? What are your suggestions for artsy travelers? Which art museums are your favorites? Share your suggestions in the Comments section below.

Courtauld Gallery in London: A Treasure Trove for the Artsy Traveler

September 21, 2022March 12, 2023Artsy Sightseeing, Destinations, England, Get Inspired carolcram 3 Comments

Last updated on March 12th, 2023 at 11:42 pm

I recently visited the Courtauld Gallery within hours of landing at Heathrow after flying to London from Vancouver. After three years away from Europe, I was itching to see great art, and the Courtauld Gallery turned out to be the perfect place to ease my way back into artsy traveling.

It’s small, it’s centrally located, and its collection is exquisite.

What is the Courtauld Gallery?

The Courtauld Gallery is part of the renowned Courtauld Institute of Art. This research-led higher education institution is the University of London’s largest community of art historians, conservators and curators. The gallery recently reopened after being closed for three years. The new and improved version is little short of spectacular.

The highlights of the Courtauld Gallery are the truly impressive Impressionist collection and the medieval collection.

Impressionist Collection at the Courtauld Gallery

Like the vast majority of visitors, I headed first to the top floor to view the Impressionist collection and the special exhibition of paintings by Edvard Munch (see my review of this exhibition). The room containing the Impressionist collection attracts the most visitors and can get a bit crowded.

I walked into the large room containing a delicious collection of Impressionists and immediately had to sit down to prevent myself from falling down and embarrassing myself. What I really wanted to do is laugh out loud and twirl myself past masterpiece after masterpiece, giddy with the beauty surrounding me.

When, finally, I collected myself, I began pacing slowly and reverently past gorgeous painting after gorgeous painting by all the biggies—Monet, Cézanne, Gauguin, Renoir, and on and on.

Here are just a few of the highlights of the Impressionist collection.

Tall Trees at the Jas de Bouffan by Paul Cézanne

Image of the painting entitled "all Trees at the Jas de Bouffan" showing a row of trees in Provence by Paul Cezanne included in the Impressionist collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London. — “Tall Trees at the Jas de Bouffan” by Paul Cezanne

Cézanne painted many views of the countryside surrounding Jas de Bouffan, a rural estate outside Aix-en-Provence owned by Cézanne’s father. Having visited the area, I can attest that Cézanne captures the shimmering quality of the light and the particularly vivid shades of green unique to Provence. My favorite Cézannes are his paintings of the Provence landscapes and this one is a keeper for sure!

Young Woman Powdering Herself by Georges Seurat

Painting called "Young Woman Powdering Herself" by Goerges Seurat showing a woman wearing a red corset and holding a powder puff. The style is pointillist and the piece is included in the Impressionist collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London. — “Young Woman Powdering Herself” by Georges Seurat

I’ve long been a fan of Georges Seurat who created the “pointillist” style of painting. He followed newly formulated optical theories by placing colors from opposite sides of the color wheel–orange and blue; pink and green–next to each other to create contrast. Seurat died at age 31 but he left behind some stunning works, this one being his only major portrait.

Self Portrait with Bandaged Ear by Vincent van Gogh

I couldn’t believe the Courtauld had this piece! It’s one of my favorite van Goghs. I love how he contrasts the various colors–blue hat, green coat, orange face–and also includes the image of one of the Japanese prints he collected. Van Gogh was heavily influenced by Japanese printmaking. He painted this piece in 1889, a week after leaving hospital following the famous incident when he cut off a portion of his left ear after a heated argument with Paul Gauguin. Even injured, van Gogh was determined to keep painting.

The Haystacks by Paul Gauguin

And speaking of Gauguin, I was thrilled to see this piece which he painted while he was living in Brittany. Gregg Simpson (husband and painter) is currently working on the Pont Aven Suite, a series inspired by Gauguin’s Brittany paintings, so Gauguin has been a regular topic of a conversation in our house. I love how Gauguin simplifies and flattens forms and colors. This piece has so much movement–the women raking hay above and the man driving the oxen below.

A Bar at the Folies-Bergère by Edouard Manet

The Bar at the Folies Bergeres by Edoaurd Manet included in the Impressionist collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London. — *A Bar at the Folies-Bergères* by Edouard Manet

Fabulous as all the pieces in the Impressionist collection are, the best of all is my old friend A Bar at the Folies-Bergères by Manet. What a painting!

The young barmaid (the model’s name was Suzon) looks out at the viewer, her expression both bored and vulnerable at the same time. According to the descriptive text next to the piece, “Manet created a complex and absorbing compostion that is considered one of the iconic paintings of modern life.” That is certainly true!

Suzon is every person in the world working in a dead-end job they hate and yet obliged to pretend they enjoy for the sake of the customers.

Medieval Collection at the Courtauld Gallery

After thoroughly exploring the top floor, I began my descent to the other two floors to explore the rest of the Courtauld Gallery’s collection. I was in for a treat as it turned out.

One of my favorite eras for painting is the middle ages, particularly the first half of the 14^th century when artists were not worried about perspective and realism. I love the use of gold, the pastel shades of the egg tempera paint the artists used, and the lego-like way in which they depicted medieval buildings.

Well, the Courtauld delivered! To my delight, it houses a lovely medieval collection that includes such notables as Lorenzetti and Duccio—two hometown boys from Siena, my fave Italian city (and one of the settings for The Towers of Tuscany).

As is often the case in art museums, the medieval rooms were pretty much empty so I drifted from painting to painting and admired to my heart’s content.

A highlight is a series of small panels painted by Fra Angelico (1417-1455) that depicts six female saints. Each face is incredibly expressive and compelling. I wonder who Fra Angelico used as models.

Medieval gold panel that includes a portrait of a female saint dressed in the black habit of a nun created by Fra Angelico included in the Medieval collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.

Medieval gold panel that includes a portrait of a female saint dressed in a blue robe trimmed with gold and created by Fra Angelico included in the Medieval collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.

Medieval gold panel that includes a portrait of a female saint dressed in a red robe and with long hair, and created by Fra Angelico included in the Medieval collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.

Medieval gold panel that includes a portrait of a female saint dressed in a pink cloak and created by Fra Angelico included in the Medieval collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.

Medieval gold panel that includes a portrait of a female saint wearing a red gown trimmed with gold and a green cape, and created by Fra Angelico included in the Medieval collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.

Medieval gold panel that includes a portrait of a female saint wearing a simple blue gown and created by Fra Angelico included in the Medieval collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.

Other Highlights of the Courtauld Gallery Collection

After thoroughly exploring and enjoying the large collection of medieval art, I toured the rest of the collection. There’s a fair number of works from the 16th to the 19th centuries, including works by Rembrandt, Gainsborough, Reynolds, and Rubens.

A big selling point of the Courtauld is its compact size and that each piece in the colleciton is stellar. I don’t think I’ve ever visited an art museum where the quality of all the pieces is so uniformly high.

After my visit, I got chatting with the young man in the gift shop. He enthusiastically agreed that the Courtauld’s collection is first-rate and also kindly listened to me rattle on about how I first visited the Courtauld with my mom back in 1970 (likely a good forty years befor he was born!)

Here are two more of my favorites at the Courtauld Gallery.

Adam and Eve by Cranach the Elder included in the collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London. — “Adam and Eve” by Cranach the Elder

Landscape with the Flight into Egypt painting by Pieter Bruegel the Elder and ncluded in the collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London. — “Landscape with the Flight Into Egypt” by Pieter Bruegel the Elder

Courtauld Gallery Practical Information

The Courtauld Gallery is open Monday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00. Book your ticket in advance on the website to avoid line-ups and also to make sure you get in! Check the website also for special exhibitions. The Munch exhibition I saw was definitely worth the extra price.

Conclusion

As my first visit to a world-class art museum in three years, the Courtauld was the perfect choice. It gently eased me back into artsy traveling, doling out artsy hits like small bites of gourmet chocolates—each one more flavorful than the last and yet all equally fabulous.

Have you visited the Courtauld? Which piece was your favorite? Share your experience in the Comments section below.

Here are some more posts about favorite art museums in Europe:

We Have a Winner – Stay at the Wilde ApartHotel in Central London

September 11, 2022March 22, 2023Destinations, England, Hotel Reviews carolcram 3 Comments

Last updated on March 22nd, 2023 at 11:29 pm

The Wilde Aparthotel at Covent Garden is the perfect place to stay on a short visit to London.

The price is reasonable (under $200 CDN a night when I booked, although this price may vary), the amenities and comforts are first rate, and the location unbelievable.

I’ve stayed in many places in London over the years, highlights being the ParkCity in Kensington and The Cavendish near Green Park, but never have I stayed in a place as fabulously located and appointed as Wilde Aparthotel, particularly if you, like me, are a theater nut.

Location, Location, Location

From the Wilde Aparthotel, you can walk to most West End theaters in under five minutes. Two of them are just across the street on the Strand.

Places mapped by Wanderlog, an itinerary planner on iOS and Android

After an evening at the theater, nothing kills the post-applause buzz like a long tube ride. I prefer to waltz no more than a few blocks along brightly lit streets thronged with other theatergoers. I especially appreciate the Wilde Aparthotel’s location when I am visiting London alone. Safety first, and for the solo traveler, the area feels very safe.

Value for Money at the Wilde Aparthotel

The Wilde Aparthotel, which is part of a chain owned by StayCity (their other property is at Paddington), has figured out how to provide visitors with a four-star experience in a five-star location at a price that won’t require them to mortgage their homes back home.

They cut corners on unnecessary stuff and spend money on things that directly contribute to customer comforts.

The two most obvious cuts are the lack of a lobby and breakfast service. A lobby is generally a waste of space and food is certainly not hard to come by in this part of London. Several coffee shops are within a five-minute walk of the hotel.

Arriving at the Wilde Aparthotel

Guests walk into a narrow entranceway and go immediately up the elevator to their rooms. Everything is sleek, modern and kind of quirky, befitting a hotel named after Oscar Wilde.

According to a plaque at the entrance, the hotel was opened by Oscar Wilde’s grandson. How cool is that!

An attendant is on duty each time I enter the hotel, always greeting me warmly and asking me if I need anything. Every staff member I encounter during my stay at the Wilde Aparthotel is friendly and professional. I feel like they really want me to have a good stay.

Room Features

My room is pretty tiny, but it has everything I can possibly need including a full kitchen, a desk, a fabulous rainforest shower, a large TV and a very comfy bed. Okay, I have to crawl across the bed and navigate around a million pillows to get to the window so I can open and close the curtains, but that’s not much of an inconvenience.

The room would be small for two people, but it is perfect for one.

Hotel room showing the bed at the Wilde Aparthotel Covent Garden — My very comfortable bed at the Wilde Aparthotel in Covent Garden

Free Stuff

The fridge is stocked with free glass bottles of water (with more available whenever needed) and snacks. Yes, you read that right–free.

Unlike every other hotel I’ve ever stayed in, the Wilde Aparthotel does not charge for the contents of the minibar. Gone is the feverish scanning of price lists at 3 am, recoiling at the eye-watering prices and then having to make the agonizing choice between eating dinner the next day and slaking your thirst.

Instead, I pluck a cold, recyclable glass bottle of water and happily chug it down, secure in the knowledge that I can have another…and another.

Kitchen area in the room at the Wilde Aparthotel in Covent Garden London — Kitchen area in the room at the Wilde Aparthotel in Covent Garden

Room Layout

The space is thoughtfully arranged with lots of little touches like fragrant shampoos and lotions in large refillable bottles, a sturdy umbrella which I needed on Day 2, fluffy towels, and good lighting. Really, it can’t be more perfect.

Back in the day, most affordable accommodation in London consisted of dreary bed-and-breakfasts with bathrooms down the hall, thin towels, lumpy beds, and hideous wallpaper reminiscent of Oscar Wilde’s last words on Earth.

Either that wallpaper goes or I do.

And he did.

What’s Close to the Wilde Aparthotel?

The Wilde Aparthotel is located on Adams Street just around the corner from the Strand. It’s no more than a five-minute walk from Trafalgar Square, the Thames, and Covent Garden.

Busses ply the Strand constantly to get to wherever you need to go in minutes. For my entire two-and-a-bit days in London, I never needed to take the Underground.

Numerous coffee shops and restaurants are very close by. On my first night, I enjoy a wonderful plate of fettucine and smoked salmon at Uvilo, an Italian place directly across the Strand from the hotel.

Fettuccine with smoked salmon – fabulous!

The portion is huge so I pack up the leftovers to store in my fridge. The small kitchen is equipped with a microwave and stove so the next day I’m able to heat up the leftovers for lunch. I’ve never had access to kitchen facilities in a London hotel.

I will definitely stay at the Wilde Aparthotel again and can recommend it unreservedly.

Other Recommended Hotels on Artsy Traveler

Myth-Making & Travel: Three Magical Moments with Trees in Dartmoor, England by Guest Poster Tina Overbury

August 17, 2022September 30, 2022Artsy Sightseeing, England, Get Inspired carolcram Leave a Comment

Last updated on September 30th, 2022 at 03:16 pm

An Artsy Traveler is always on the look-out for those magical moments that make traveling so, well, magical. And if you’re also a storyteller (like me and our guest poster), you can be extra vigilant in your search for those magical moments that lead to or affirm story.

Guest poster, writer, storyteller, performer (and fellow Bowen Islander!) Tina Overbury shares her experience finding magical moments with trees while participating in a writing program in Dartmoor, England (one of my favorite places!).

Myth-Making, Storytelling, & Magical Moments

‘Stories don’t enchant, they break spells’ – Dr. Martin Shaw, Storyteller and Mythologist, West Country School of Myth

I’m fresh back from a week-long summer school program called Tent of the Seven Doors from The West Country School of Myth. Led by storyteller and mythologist Dr. Martin Shaw, the program was located in Dartmoor in the southwest corner of England.

The story room at night, at West Country’s School of Myth Summer School: The Tent of the Seven Doors with Dr. Martin Shaw.

I had just completed a two-week story pilgrimage in Ireland and decided that since I’m so close, I should really hop over to England and tick a story-box I’ve been carrying for a long time.

Who is Dr. Martin Shaw?

I came across Dr. Martin Shaw’s work seven years ago when my writing partner, Meribeth Deen, sent me an article from Emergence Magazine: Mud and Antler Bone. I swear I listened to that interview fifty times. I used to run to it and then stop it mid-stride, catch my breath and slap my head with: What? What did he say…?

OMGGGGGG – There’s a language for what I see in my head? Other people talk like this?

I didn’t understand then that the way my instrument as an artist works is through ‘thinking’ and ‘hearing’ in mythological terms.

What this looks like for my friends is that I have a rather obnoxious habit (to some) of explaining everything in metaphor. This isn’t because I think I’m all that and a bag of chips, or because I’m trying to hide from being clear about anything. It’s because to me, using symbols and imagery that are thick with textured meaning ARE the closest way I know to speak succinctly.

Communicating Truth

How else can you communicate the complexity of the truth? Or so says me! And thankfully I discovered this summer during my travels that a gaggle of other story people say so too.

Let me tell you about three magic moments I had with trees in beautiful, mystical Dartmoor.

Magical Moment 1: Finding the Ashes

Tangles of branches spotted while on a medicine walk in Dartmoor National Park as part of the Summer School, Tent of the Seven Doors.

To provide a context for the magical moments with trees I experienced while walking on Dartmoor, I first need to go back two years to when I wrote a piece called OMYGOD about the women we burned, the babies we buried and the Gods we have worshiped.

As the name sounds, it was a tough piece to write. I didn’t choose to write it, it chose me, and to top it all off, I decided to perform it as a live storytelling piece. However, due to the pandemic, we filmed it instead. All this to say, I had to memorize the damn thing–all 60 pages and 93 minutes of it.

The ‘women we burned’ part – the story that named six Irish women who were burned at the stake for witchcraft – was proving impossible to memorize. I just couldn’t get the words of those women into my body. I tried everything. I walked, I prayed, I asked… I did everything.

The Magical Power of Dreams

Eventually, I engaged in a dreaming session with a healer friend of mine. In the dream I saw myself as a birthing aid of sorts. I was in a hut smoothing clay like mud across a dying woman’s chest. She was taking her last breaths post-childbirth and I was placing lavender on her throat. Best as I could make sense, I was helping her transition to the other side. Because of this, the clergy and the officials of the town took me, and I was burned alongside a number of other women for witchcraft.

As dreams can do, I was able to step in and out of places in the story. I didn’t watch myself or the other women burn. Instead, I time jumped to the place where they were all ashes and I was on the outside.

I stood in front of the line of pyres in front of me, and I cried and cried and cried, saying over and over again…

’What happened to the ashes of these women? Who collected their ashes? Who laid them to rest?’

Finding the Story in a Tree

And then I stepped wayyyyyy out and started picking up pieces of wood and laying them in a circle, like a sacred line of acknowledgement of their life, and to mark their death.

A twisted tree on a lonely moor in Dartmoor, England, encountered by the author whle wjile on the medicine walk in Dartmoor National Park. — I see flesh on her – this tree with ravens for limbs. I encountered her while on the medicine walk in Dartmoor National Park.

Magical Moment #2: Exploring the Landscape of Place

The Tent of the Seven Doors program at The West Country School of Myth certainly wasn’t like any other writing class I’d taken. To be fair, it wasn’t a writing class. In fact, I’m not even sure it was a ‘class’, but rather an initiation into the realm of mythical storytelling.

We didn’t learn through cognitive lesson plans with hand-outs or PowerPoints. We didn’t learn through experiences and examples unpacked through journaling or reflections. The truth is, I’m still trying to figure out how we learned, but if I had to guess, I’d have to say that we learned through invitation.

We were invited to step from one world into another.
We were invited through the landscape of place.
We were invited through the imagining that happened with each story.

Each day we would experience a story, and each afternoon or evening we would experience the land.

Connecting with a Lush and Luxuriant Oak

On one such afternoon, I came across this beautiful tree.

A magnificent oak tree in Dartmoor, England — An oak tree in Dartmoor

She’s a gorgeous oak and unlike most of the scarred and barren trees of the moor, she is lush and radiant and there is more limb and branch to her than trunk. She has been reaching toward the sun for a very long time.

I spent some time with her and found myself collecting sticks. I was finishing a story that started with a dream a number of months ago. I acknowledged more women, and I collected more ashes. I placed a circle of sticks around her.

A line of sticks laid out in front of the truck of an enormous oak tree in Dartmoor, England. — Encircling the oak with sticks

And then that dreamscape story of OMYGOD felt complete. I don’t have much more to say about that other than I knew it was done.

But then…

Magical Moment #3: The Cork Tree Walks with Me

Have you ever seen a cork oak tree? Because I sure hadn’t.

There is a HUGE cork oak by the enormous fire pit at the back of the property where we gathered to close our summer school experience. Seeing that tree made me think that I had just stepped into The Shire from The Lord of the Rings. I had to talk myself out of believing it could walk.

You know when you’re walking down the street and a dog starts to follow you and if you look back he’ll keep following so you have to discipline yourself TO NOT LOOK BACK? Well, that was me.

I mean, how was it going to make it into the house with me? Okay, I know this tree can’t actually walk. But jeeeeeeeeeeez… I swear, this tree was magnificent.

It transported me to a place I have only ever made fun of: the land of affirmation people, the ones who only see the world through the lens of sunshine, rainbows and lollipops.

But there it was.

If Snow White was a real person, she would step out of a little apple-red door with the seven dwarfs following behind, singing Heigh Ho, Heigh Ho…

Check this out (you’ll even hear the cows!) :

The Magic of a Cork Tree

And to touch the bark? I mean the cork… I mean the bark. It is light, like the false front of a western town film set, except this isn’t a facade. It’s a whole damn tree and it has to be hundreds of years old.

She was the antithesis and antidote to all the gloom, grief and burning that had been my journey of mythic trees thus far.

I fully expected unicorns and fairies to pour out of its bark like a clown car filled with magic instead of red-shoed men.

Who knew?

Holding the Light and the Dark

As an artist, I’m comfortable in the darker shades of story. I easily walk the bottom of the ocean while holding hands with the harder emotions. I write pieces to look for hope. I write to discover the color that lives in the shadowy blend of things, but this time, I didn’t have to.

This gorgeous cork oak tree did all the heavy lifting for me.

Learning Community

“In troubled times we can create a culture of resistance and delight. The learning community that is the School of Myth believes that myth has something vital to say about the condition of both our lives and the earth. That certain stories we need right now arrived, perfectly on time, about five thousand years ago. Central to this is the notion that culture and wildness have experienced an artificial separation, and that both initiation and myth can create what Shaw calls a Culture of Wildness.” – West Country School of Myth.

Martin also says: ‘When the center is in crisis, it is only from the edge that the genius comes’. I believe him.

So while these days, there IS a lot to be troubled about…for sure, there is also much to be hopeful for.

Group shot of the participants in summer 2022 in the Tent of the Seven Doors experience at the West Country School of Myth. — This is the group of us from the Summer 2022 Tent of the Seven Doors experience at the West Country School of Myth.

Please meet this community of Bards, Storytellers, Eco-Romantics, land-as-church visionaries, fire-dwellers, academics, nurturers and fools.

There is a movement afoot.

And it’s coming from multiple directions.

These are mythic times.

Read about Tina Overbury on the Artsy Traveler Guest Posters page. Here are some other contributions from Tina and other guest posters to help you get the most of your artsy traveling.

Three Tips Every Writing Adventurer Needs to Buy The Damn Hat by Tina Overbury
The Joys of Exploring the World with Small Group Tours by Julie Ferguson
Top Tips for Walking the Camino of Santiago by Elizabeth Petrie