Artsy Traveler

London in Two-and-a-Bit Days for the Artsy Traveler

Last updated on March 11th, 2023 at 06:27 pm

Fortunately, I’ve visited London many times over the years and have seen pretty much all the major sites multiple times. As a result, I decided to visit a few old favorites and explore some new-to-me places. Even if you’ve never visited London, my two-and-a-bit itinerary will give you a good overview of the highlights.

After getting settled at the Wilde Aparthotel (#1: see my review of this highly-recommended hotel in Covent Garden), I set off for my first artsy stop of my London stay—the elegant Courtauld Gallery at Somerset House.

Map of London Sightseeing

Here are the places I visited in London during my whirlwind two-and-a-bit-days trip in August 2022.

Arrival in London: The Bit of My Two-and-a-Bit Days

Courtauld Gallery

I first visited the Courtauld (#2) in the 1970s when I came face to face with what would become my favorite Manet painting—A Bar at the Folies-Bergère. I was only 14 years old, and seeing that painting was pretty much responsible for setting me on a course of art loving that continues to this day.

Why Visit the Courtauld 

I recommend visiting the Courtauld (#2) for two reasons. First, the gallery is small enough to be easily enjoyed in an hour or two without taxing your energy and your legs. And second, it’s bursting at the seams with unbelievably awesome works.

I’ve rarely been to an art museum that includes such a thoughtful and exquisitely curated collection of works, from the middle ages to the Impressionists.

In this post, I cover a few highlights. For a more in-depth post about the Courtauld with plenty of examples of works you’ll see there, check out my post Courtauld Gallery in London: A Treasure Trove for the Artsy Traveler.

Highlights of the Courtauld Gallery

The main draw at the Courtauld Gallery is the beautiful collection of Impressionists that includes all the biggies (Monet, Manet, Renoir, Cezanne, van Gogh, etc.). Several very famous pieces are included, such as Manet’s A Bar at the Folies-Bergère and van Gogh’s Peach Trees in Blossom

A Bar at the Folies-Bergère

This painting is one of my favorites, and as I write in my full post on the Courtauld Gallery, seeing it in the early 1970s was one of the experiences that set me up as a life-long art lover.

There’s just something about the way in which the central character stares out at us, the audience, that is so compelling. She’s so bored and yet so vulnerable. You can’t help sympathizing with her and imagining what she’s thinking. It’s probably something along the lines of I wish he’d hurry up and give me his order so I can stop pretending to care.

Peach Trees in Blossom by Vincent van Gogh

My favorite van Gogh paintings are of the landscape around Arles. In fact, the very first van Gogh painting I saw was very similar to this piece in the Courtauld. I was 11 years old, visiting Montreal’s Expo 67 and seeing great art for the first time. The rest, as they say, is history.

Peach Trees in Blossom captures the scene of an open plain outside Arles and was painted in 1889. Vincent wrote to his brother Theo that the blossoms and distant snow-capped mountain reminded him of the cherry trees and Mount Fuji in Japanese prints, of which he was a great collector.

Rest of the Courtauld Gallery Collection

After thoroughly exploring the top floor, I explored the other two floors, both containing many marvelous works. The collection of medieval paintings is one of the best I’ve seen, even in big museums like the Louvre and Vatican.

I ended my joyful visit to the Courtauld with a chat with the friendly attendant in the gift shop. I bought a catalog of the collection and told him how much I loved the Courtauld and how I’d first visited way back in 1970. He was delighted.

Courtauld Gallery Practical Information

The Courtauld Gallery is open Monday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00. Book your ticket in advance on the website to avoid line-ups and to make sure you get in! Check the website also for special exhibitions. The Munch exhibition I saw was worth the extra price.

Getting a Phone Card

I floated out of the Courtauld and headed for a phone store to get a Sim card installed. The attendant was so friendly and helpful. I ended up telling him I write computer books for a living and he thought that was very cool and had all kinds of questions. We also commiserated over the cost of cell service in North America compared to the UK.

I purchased a SIM card good for a full month of unlimited data for just 30 GBP. I didn’t actually need a month, but that was the shortest duration and at that price, I couldn’t lose. It beats the $15 per day I’d have paid to stay with my Rogers SIM card. I wanted to also buy coverage for Europe but was advised to buy a SIM card when I arrive in Amsterdam. He explained my options patiently and without a trace of condescension.

Thank you Vodaphone! I’m a happy customer.

First Night Dinner

Dinner was a plate of smoked salmon and fettucine that was so delicious I wanted to weep all over again. I ate half of it and took the rest back to my room to keep in the fridge until the next day when it tasted just as good.

To bed at 8:30 pm and Day 1 in the UK came to a peaceful close.

First Full Day in London

I started my day at 7 am with a black coffee at one of the ubiquitous Café Nero’s, this one about ten steps from the front door of the Wilde Aparthotel. To my relief, the coffee was superb. Long gone are the days when the only coffee for sale in the UK was beyond inexecrable. Because I spent my early adult years in England in the 1970s, I didn’t develop a taste for coffee until I was 30. Good strong English tea was my beverage of choice for at least a decade.

After an hour of coffee and writing, I returned to my room in preparation for my first full day in London. Because time was so limited, I made reservations for almost everything I planned to do.

Taking the Uber Boat to the Globe Theatre

First stop was a tour of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre (#3). I walked down to the Thames (about five minutes away) and hopped on the boat that took me downriver to Bankside. The skyline of London was unrecognizable even since my previous trip in 2016. Dozens of new, ultra modern buildings gleamed golden in the early morning sun.

Tour of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre

I was early for my tour—the first of the day at 10 am. I had yet another black coffee and eavesdropped on a conversation between three young women who appeared to be about eighteen. One of them loudly informed the others that none of her many boyfriends had ever gotten over her. Currently, she was in the midst of fending off the advances of a boy who kissed her in fourth form (Grade 9) and was spoiled forever for any other girl. Was she arrogant or just supremely self-confident? I couldn’t decide, but I couldn’t help hoping life would treat her well.

At 10 am, I joined about thirty people for the Globe tour. I last visited the Globe in 2007 on a trip with my mother and before that in 2001 with Julia to see a performance of The Tempest starring Vanessa Redgrave as Prospero. Although the hard seats (even with a cushion) and lack of back support somewhat detracted from the experience, I’m glad I had it!

Meeting Our Tour Guide

Our guide joined us—a man in his fifties named Mick. He declared that he is a genuine Cockney and certainly he sounded the part. He was very energetic and obviously loved what he does. The hour-long tour was informative and fun, and in my opinion, well worth the 17 GDP cost.

Outside the Theatre

The tour started outside the theater with Mick telling us why the theaters were built on the south bank of the Thames and not in the city. Apparently, the killjoys in the city didn’t want raucous entertainments sullying the area, and so entrepreneurs like Richard Burbage built the first theatre very close the site of the current Globe. He also talked about Sam Wanamaker, the American billionaire who made construction of the new Globe his life’s work.

Inside the Globe Theatre

We entered the theatre twice—once on the lower level and a second time on the upper level. While on the lower level, Mick provided us with graphic descriptions of the groundlings in Shakespeare’s time. Over 3000 people crammed into a space that now fits 1800 in these days of fire regulations and basic hygiene.

The pit alone, where the groundlings hung out, once fit 1000 people packed in so closely that people could not raise their arms. They were unbathed, boisterous, and very smelly. It cost a penny to get into the pit so if nature called, a groundling urinated in place rather than leave the theatre and then pay another penny to get back in. Shakespeare called the groundlings the penny stinkers.

On the upper level, Mick talked about how the gentry came to the play to see and be seen. When the Globe Theater opened in 1977, it hosted two queens. “Elizabeth I” rode into the pit on a horse and bowed to Elizabeth II seated in the royal box.

I thoroughly enjoyed the tour and recommend it as a must-do for the theatre-loving artsy traveler.

Shakespeare’s Globe Practical Information

The Globe Theatre is open for tours at specific times and pre-booking is essential. Check the website for details and to purchase tickets, preferably well in advance. From the link above, you can choose from a variety of tours. I took the Globe Theatre Guided Tour.

Tate Modern

After my Globe visit, I went next door to the Tate Modern (#4) to check out the surrealist exhibition and to take a quick tour through the permanent collection, which I’ve visited before.

One of Gregg’s paintings from the early 1970s is included in the exhibition catalog, but alas, not in the exhibition itself. The painting is currently in a museum in Spain and thanks to COVID restrictions, it wasn’t sent to London or on to New York, where the exhibition goes next to be shown at the Met.

I have to say that the Surrealism Beyond Borders exhibition was not particularly compelling. The commentary was a bit on the didactic side and the quality uneven. I’m not convinced the exhibition was worth the extra cost for anyone other than a die-hard surrealism fan. I wasn’t even compelled to take pictures!

Tate Modern Permanent Collection

I explored the permanent collection at the Tate and, as I have other times I’ve been here, found it uneven. Some rooms were quick walk-throughs; others were worth lingering in, but none for all that long. There were works by most of the most famous 20th-century artists, including Picasso, Mondrian, Leger, and Matisse, but few really iconic ones.

Here are some of the highlights that attracted me.

Lee Krasner was both the partner of Jackson Pollock and an excellent painter in her own right. Works by women are still few and far between in most of the major collections, so I was pleased to see that the Tate included a work by Krasner. Although this piece is an abstract painting, its thick vertical lines are apparently intended to invoke trees with thick knotted roots, hence the title Gothic Landscape.

This very famous surrealist work was painted by Delvaux in Brussels during WWII while the city was being bombed. Delvaux said of the painting that “the psychology of that moment was very exceptional, full of drama and anguish. I wanted to express this anguish in the picture, contrasted with the calm of the Venus.” I’d say he succeeded!

I was done in less than an hour. I still prefer the permanent collection of mid-20^th-century masterpieces at the Pompidou in Paris to the collection at the Tate Modern.

But if you’ve never visited, definitely go and have a look. The building–a converted power station–is worth seeing, and the price of admission (free!) is worth the walk. But if you’re not a huge modern art fan, I’d recommend spending your time at the Tate Britain instead, where you’ll find several works by the pre-Raphaelites, among others.

Tate Modern Practical Information

The Tate Modern is open from 10:00 to 18:00 every day and admission is free, except for special exhibitions. Check the website for details.

Lunch and the Museum of the Home

The sun shone brilliantly as I walk across the Thames, pausing to take shots of iconic Saint Paul’s Cathedral and the incredibly modern skyline. London sure has changed since I first visited in 1970!

I stopped at a Wagamama (Asian-inspired chain restaurant) for a quick lunch that turned into a very long lunch because my order was forgotten. When finally I got it, the server had the good grace to not charge me. Needless to say, I won’t be back!

Museum of the Home

I took the bus to the Museum of the Home (#5) in Shoreditch which turned out to be a disappointment probably because I missed most of it by going in what was actually the back door. I saw only a few rooms—from the Victorian era, WW1, the 1930s, the 1950s, and the 1990s. It wasn’t worth the long journey. But whatever. Live and learn.

Traveling by Uber in London

To get back to my hotel, I ordered my first London Uber. Unfortunately, I was in the wrong place so the driver eventually drove past and cancelled on me. Uber sent a new driver who took the time to find me. Omar from Somali turned out to be a big talker—nonstop for the half hour trip. He told me he’s a traditional Muslim, determined that his four children aged 8 to 16 stay on the straight and narrow. He also told me about his business interests in Somalia, his huge extended family, and the recent death of his father.

Back at the Wilde, I had a wee nap and was recharged! Out again at 4 pm, I walked five minutes to the National Gallery.

National Gallery

I love the National Gallery (#6)! I spent an hour wandering from room to room, eyes tearing up as every turn brought new masterpieces before me. All of the biggies from the middle ages to the Impressionists are here. I felt very emotional as I kept coming face to face with so much beloved art while also discovering new pieces to admire.

Here are some highlights.

The Fighting Temeraire by William Turner

When I was growing up, my dad had a print of this famous piece by Turner hanging in his study. It was one of the first works of art I ever saw as a child. I think he purchased it in London in the early 1960s. I always loved looking at the sky, and so wasn’t surprised when as an adult I discovered that Turner was famous for his depiction of light.

The Bathers by Georges Seurat

I’d forgotten this iconic piece by Seurat was in the National Gallery. It dominates a room full of other Impressionist masterpieces. There’s something so itmeless about this piece–people relaxing on a fine summer’s day, each lost in their thoughts. But what is the dog looking at?

The National Gallery includes famous pieces by just about every major European artist, including van Gogh, Monet, Michelangelo, and Vermeer, to name a few. It’s a world-class art museum but not as overwhelming as the Louvre, for example. You can easily see the highlights in about an hour.

National Gallery Practical Information

The National Gallery is open from 10:00 to 18:00 every day and until 21:00 on Friday. Admission is free, except for special exhibitions. Check the website for details.

Dinner and a Show

After enjoying the National Gallery, I lingered awhile to enjoy the view over Trafalgar Square (#7). I was reminded of when I ended up in Trafalgar Square at midnight on New Year’s Eve 1974 when I was eighteen and attending Reading University.

As the year turned to 1975, my friends and I were engulfed by people yelling and celebrating. A very large man grabbed hold of me and kissed me. Needless to say, we quickly escaped. We ran through deserted streets (the tube had already stopped) only to discover that we’d missed the last train back to Surrey where my friend lived.

We ended up spending a cold few hours huddled on a park bench in Green Park. At about 3 am, a bobby came by and ushered us out so the rest of the night was spent in Victoria Station waiting for the first train. I had severe heartburn after sampling my very first Indian curry earlier in the evening, and thought I was dying!

This is Now

My experience of Trafalgar Square on a lovely sunny day in 2022 after swooning over the masterpieces in the National Gallery was a big improvement over New Year’s Eve 1974.

After enjoying Trafalgar Square and my memories, I headed for The Restaurant (that’s its name, really!) for dinner prior to seeing My Fair Lady. I walked past the place three times before finally finding it. I was the only customer for the theater menu—a fabulous chicken terrine for the starter and trout for the main course. The food was absolutely superb and reasonably priced. I couldn’t understand why no one was there.

My Fair Lady

My first show in London! I took my seat in the dress circle and felt very glad I opted to buy a premium seat. My view was perfect.

The show was fabulous (well, of course!). The actor playing Eliza had an amazing voice. She owned the stage every time she opened her mouth. Another stand-out was the actor playing her father Alfred P. Doolittle. The actor playing Higgins managed to escape the shadow of Rex Harrison and was almost sympathetic (no easy matter!). Another stand-out was the actor playing Freddy. He totally killed On the Street Where You Live.

My Fair Lady stands the test of time.

Second Full Day in London

A peal of thunder in the middle of the night heralded a dreary, rainy morning on my second full day in London. I didn’t mind in the least! Armed with a sturdy umbrella provided by the Wilde Aparthotel (I really like this place), I ventured forth (after my coffee at Café Nero) for my first stop of the day—a tour of Westminster Abbey.

Westminster Abbey

I’ve visited Westminster Abbey (#8) several times over the years, and it never fails to impress. I was practically the first person through the door with my pre-purchased ticket for 10 am entry. For almost all of my visit, I had the abbey virtually to myself.

Each guest is provided with an audio guide and headphones. Since my last visit in 2016, the audio guide has improved significantly. It’s like a mini SmartPhone with a large screen that shows videos to accompany the audio. I listened to and watched every video!

As always, my favorite part of Westminster Abbey is Poet’s Corner. So many great writers are either buried or commemorated there—Chaucer, Milton, Shakespeare, Jane Austen, Dickens… the list goes on. I had the place to myself and spent many happy minutes strolling from plaque to plaque, memorial to memorial.

As I wandered around Westminster Abbey, I didn’t, of course, suspect that in just a few more weeks it would take the world stage as the setting for the Queen’s funeral.

Wallace Collection

After touring Westminster Abbey, I checked out the Wallace Collection (#9), which was new to me. Housed in a magnificent mansion, the Wallace collection is billed as “an internationally outstanding collection which contains unsurpassed masterpieces of paintings, sculpture, furniture, arms and armour and porcelain.”

Yep, that’s about right. I’d rarely seen so much stuff crowded into so many rooms in my life. Wandering through the many, many rooms was kind of like being obliged to eat too much fudge. It’s tasty, sure, but eating too much just kind of makes you feel like you’d rather have toast.

That said, the Wallace Collection is worth a visit, particularly if you’re interested in armor and porcelain. There are numerous magnificent examples.

For me, the special exhibition was more interesting than the permanent collection. Called Inspiring Walt Disney: The Animation of French Decorative Arts, the exhibition illustrated how films such as Cinderella and Beauty and the Beast were heavily inspired by French decorative arts of the 1800s. An excellent audio guide and several animated displays underscored the artistry that went into creating the two iconic films.

One Evening; Two Musicals

With only two full days in London, I opted to cram in three musicals. Fortunately, one of the musicals (Six) started at 5 pm and ran for just 90 minutes so I had time to fit in Jersey Boys, mostly because the Trafalgar Theater is only a five-minute walk from the Vaudeville Theater on the Strand where Six was playing and second, because I’d never seen it (although I did see the movie).

Six: The Musical

Six tells the story of Henry VIII’s six wives – Catherine of Aragon (divorced), Anne Boleyn (beheaded), Jane Seymour (died), Anne of Cleves (divorced), Katherine Howard (beheaded) and Katharine Parr (survived). The “divorced, beheaded, died, divorced, beheaded, survived” riff ran through this exceedingly energetic and highly recommended production.

Each wife—excuse me, each queen—took a turn singing a song to convince us that her life was the saddest of the six. The songs were funny, heartbreaking, poignant, and extraordinarily creative. Outlandish costumes, wacky dancing, and excellent vocals made for a deliciously entertaining 90 minutes.

I emerged from the theater refreshed and ready for more.

Jersey Boys

A quick walk down the Strand past Charing Cross brought me to the Trafalgar Theater, which is, not surprisingly, within spitting distance of Trafalgar Square. Unlike for both Six and My Fair Lady, the theater was not full, most likely because the musical has been playing for several years.

Whereas most of the audience for Six were young women under 35, most of the audience for Jersey Boys appeared to be over sixty, hardly surprising considering the subject.

My seat was cheek-by-jowl with a large English man—a Cockney from London he informed me. Although friendly and chatty, he had a habit of overflowing into my space. Fortunately, several seats to my immediate left were empty so at the interval, I shifted over. I don’t think he was offended, although we never spoke again after I shifted.

Jersey Boys tells the story of Frankie Valli, the falsetto crooner famous for such hits as Sherry, Can’t Take My Eyes Off of You, Walk Like a Man, Big Girls Don’t Cry, and Rag Doll. It was a walk down memory lane for we over-60s and very enjoyable. The actor who played Frankie Valli was fabulous. How he managed to belt those falsetto songs out night after night amazed me. My vocal cords hurt just listening to him.

After two shows, I was famished (no time for dinner!) and so I stopped by one of the many Italian eateries for a plate of shrimp sauteed with peppers (so good and fresh). It was then home to bed and the end of my London adventure.

Conclusion

Have you traveled to London? What are your suggestions for artsy travelers? Which art museums are your favorites? Share your suggestions in the Comments section below.

More posts about London:

• Courtauld Gallery in London: A Treasure Trove for the Artsy Traveler
• National Gallery: The Best of the Best
• We Have a Winner – Stay at the Wilde ApartHotel in Central London