Ten Charming Hotels in Europe I Recommend
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Over the years, I’ve stayed in many charming, family-run hotels in Europe. Most are small, boutique-style places, and none are particularly expensive.
I’ve chosen family-run (or at least small) hotels in Austria, France, Italy, the Netherlands, Portugal, and Spain. Limiting this list to ten was challenging, because, over the years, we’ve stayed in some pretty charming family-run, boutique-style places.
You’ll quickly find that Europe has more than its fair share of cool accommodation options!
For advice on choosing memorable hotels, see my post on 6 Steps to Finding Awesome Accommodation in Europe.
I start in Austria and proceed through France, Italy, Portugal, and Spain. If you wish to book accommodation at any of the places described, click the link to go directly to the hotel’s page on booking.com. I earn a small commission if you make a booking.
Austria
Gutshof zum Schluxen – a Boutique Hotel in the Tyrol
The charming Gutshof zum Schluxen is located just over the border from Füssen in Germany and not far from the famous “Mad Ludwig” castle, otherwise known as Neuschwanstein Castle. To find the place, you’ll need your GPS to guide you along country roads to the hamlet of Unterpinswang which is just beyond Pinswang and nestled in a valley ringed by the Tyrolean alps.
Pull into the spacious parking lot surrounded by horse-dotted fields. Minutes later, you’re greeted by the friendly, lederhosen-clad owner.
This small, family-run hotel, built in 1853 and renovated in 2014, is exactly what you imagine a Tyrolean inn would be, complete with wooden furniture, mountain views, hearty food, and beer served on an outdoor terrace.
We stayed only one night while en route to Italy, but I’d love to go back and settle in for longer. Many of the people staying at the Gutshof zum Schluxen were exploring the hiking trails in the area.
The inn offers a nightly dinner of good, filling Tyrolean food. I chose spaetzle and a delicious beer. After dinner, with the valley still bathed in golden light, we walked along the trail that leads to Neuschwanstein Castle.
You can hike to the Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau Castles in about an hour or cycle there in 30 minutes. To drive takes just 15 minutes. Linderhof Castle is a 45-minute drive away.
We slept well on comfy beds after our dinner and walk. Check out options for staying at the Gutshof zum Schluxen.
Charming Hotels in France
Small, family-run, boutique-style hotels surrounded by gorgeous scenery are thick on the ground in France.
I chose two of the many dozens we’ve stayed at to feature here: Les Sables d’Ocre outside of Roussillon in Provence, and the Château de la Vénerie, an honest-to-goodness château in the Champagne region about 40 kilometers north of Lyon.
Les Sables d’Ocre–A Family Favorite Hotel Near Roussillon
We discovered this place in the heart of the Luberon Natural Park in 1999 and have returned a few times. It’s a family favorite and the subject of one of the pieces (Monsieurs) in Pastel & Pen, a non-collaborative collaboration of Gregg’s drawings and my writing.
Les Sables d’Ocre sets the bar for what a country-style, family-run, low-key, easy-on-the-budget place should be.
With its Provençal decor and airy rooms, many with private terraces, Les Sables d’Ocre is a marvelous place to relax. Stretch out on loungers by the pool on the one-hectare grounds overlooking a typical Provence landscape.
Another thing I like about this hotel is its proximity to the village of Roussillon. You can walk there in about 15 minutes.
Roussillon
If you haven’t been to Roussillon in the Luberon region of Provence, put it on your list.
Of all the charming villages in the Luberon, including Gordes, Bonnieux, Menerbes, and Apt, I like Roussillon best.
Perched atop a hill with a commanding view of the Luberon, the village includes plenty of small shops selling authentic souvenirs, such as local ceramics and scented soaps. You can never have too many bars of lavender soap, in my opinion!
But what sets Roussillon apart from its sister villages in the Luberon are the stunning ochre cliffs. Go in the late afternoon when the light is perfect for photography.
You can walk to the cliffs from Les Sables d’Ocre.
If you decide to stay at the Les Sables d’Ocre, spring for the Privilege Room with Terrace. You’ll have your own private outdoor space and be steps from the pool.
The Luberon is also lavender central. If you travel to the Luberon from the end of June to the beginning of August, drive into the hills to view vast fields of purple lavender.
Château de la Vénerie, Denicé
On our way north from Provence to Paris, we broke our trip about 40 kilometers north of Lyon at the spectacular Château de la Vénerie.
I’d always wanted to stay in a château but had mistakenly thought such luxury was out of my price range. Thankfully, I was wrong.
For the same price we’d pay for a run-of-the-mill three-star hotel, we enjoyed a massive room at the Château de la Vénerie where we were the only guests.
Below is our bedroom. The bathroom was almost as large!
The château has been owned by the same family for generations which, as a history buff, I was fascinated to learn. The proprietor’s English was on par with my French, but we managed to have a reasonably coherent bilingual chat over breakfast about the château and its history.
Visit the Château de la Vénerie for a relaxing, history-steeped experience.
Charming Hotels in Italy
Hotel Pescille
Located a few kilometers south of San Gimignano with a killer view over the valley, the Hotel Pescille is in the running for my fave hotel in all of Europe (or at least the parts I’ve visited).
I keep returning to the three-star, reasonably-priced Hotel Pescille for its simple but comfortable rooms, its fabulous location in the Tuscan countryside, and its rustic indoor and outdoor public spaces.
The walls in the common areas are decorated with farm implements, and ceramic pumpkins adorn niches and stairwells.
On our most recent trip, we took several walks near the hotel to admire the view.
If you’re visiting San Gimignano and you’re traveling by car, consider staying at the Hotel Pescille. I recommend spending a little extra (it’s really not much extra) to get a room overlooking the stunning town of San Gimignano. The last time we stayed, our room included a small balcony.
Hotel Emilia
High on a hill overlooking the fabled Adriatic Sea, the Hotel Emilia is a spectacular choice if you’re exploring the Marches region along the east coast of Italy.
Located in the countryside about 11 kilometers south of Ancona, the family-run, 4-star Hotel Emilia is close to the Conero National Park and overlooks the tiny beach town of Portonovo. In the summer months, a shuttle takes you from the hotel to the beach where you can dip your toes into the Adriatic.
We visited in May and were able to swim in the pool, but the beach action wasn’t happening yet. We did have an amazing meal at a restaurant right on the beach in Portonovo.
A lovely feature of the Hotel Emilia are the modern sculptures dotted around the extensive grounds and the large library of art books in the common area.
Breakfasts were fabulous, the rooms with private terraces overlooking the view comfortable, and the staff friendly.
Book a room at the Hotel Emilia.
Hotel Athena, Siena
This is a wonderful choice located just inside the city walls of Siena. Drive up the hill to the Porta Laterina, then nip through the arched gateway and hang a sharp right to arrive at the Athena Hotel.
When you’re visiting Siena, you do not want to drive more than a few feet past one of the city gates. Not only might you get a stiff fine, but also you’ll likely get hopelessly lost and scrape the paint job on your car in the narrow streets.
The rooms at the Athena Hotel are large and the views over the countryside spectacular. The hotel offers free parking (always a bonus!), an elegant Italian restaurant, and a furnished terrace with views of the town and the surrounding valley.
From the hotel, we walked just ten minutes to reach the Campo and the center of Siena.
Spend a little extra to get a room at the Hotel Athena with a view like the one below. I took this picture from the parking lot just below the hotel. Pretty nice!
Netherlands
Mokum Suites, Amsterdam
Amsterdam is not a budget city. You’ll pay a lot for a mediocre hotel room in a nondescript area and even more if the hotel is in the Canal Ring, also known as the Centrum.
I suggest you increase your budget and book a well-reviewed, small hotel on one of the long, leafy canals, such as Prinsengracht, Keizersgracht, Herengracht, or Singel. Staying on the outskirts is less expensive, but you’re doomed to long tram rides, and you won’t be able to stroll along moonlit canals right outside your front door.
By far, our favorite place in Amsterdam is Mokum Suites overlooking the Herengracht canal and near the Rembrandtplein. From your suite, watch the canal boats slide past.
Although expensive (we paid €350 a night in May), accommodation at the Mokum Suites costs considerably less than a regular hotel. The house contains two suites in addition to a common area on the ground floor that includes a fridge and cooking facilities.
Your room rate also includes breakfast at a local café.
I highly recommend Mokum Suites both for its location and for the quality of the accommodations. We’ll stay there again.
Portugal
Monte da Fornalha, Estremoz
One of our favorite country hotels on all our travels is the Monte da Fornalha, a few kilometers outside Estremoz–a white-washed hill town in the historic and scenic Alentejo region. This region is sometimes referred to as the Tuscany of Portugal.
Surrounded by cork trees and cows, the rural property has simple rooms, fabulous breakfasts, and a tiled pool that even on the hottest days in July was refreshing enough to raise goosebumps.
If you’re in the Estremoz area, consider staying at the Monte da Fornalha for a few days to totally relax and soak up the Alentejo beauty.
Spain
Hotel Cortijo-las-Piletas
On our trip to Europe in 2019, we opted to stay in the countryside about a 15-minute drive from Ronda, and we’re glad we did.
The weather was hot, and we needed a place to chill out. The Hotel Cortijo-las-Piletas fit the bill perfectly. The hotel even provided an excellent dinner served in the courtyard on one of the evenings we were there.
The proprietor of this family-run hotel was exceedingly friendly and accommodating. She handles the guests, and her husband cooks the dinners. I can’t recommend this place highly enough.
Book a room at Hotel Cortijo-las-Piletas.
Barceló Monasterio de Boltaña Spa
We were very happy to pull into this amazing place in the charming town of Boltaña after a harrowing drive in a torrential rainstorm across the Pyrenees from France.
If you’re in the vicinity of the Pyrenees, find and stay at the Barceló Monasterio de Boltaña Spa. It’s a five-star establishment with three-star prices and serious luxury. I wish we could have stayed for a week.
In my travels, I’ve never seen a bigger bed than the Emperor-sized one placed regally in the middle of our cavernous room. At least six monks could have slept there comfortably, maybe seven if they were malnourished.
As the name suggests, the Barceló Monasterio de Boltaña Spa includes a remarkable spa, a large and deliciously refreshing outdoor pool, and a gourmet restaurant. And did I mention the price? While not hostel-level, at just over €100 for our gorgeous double room, the prices are reasonable, considering the level of service and the beauty of the surroundings.
We’ve been known to pay a lot more for a lot less.
I treated myself to a morning in the spa and, OMG! I’ve experienced a few spas in my time but never one as fancy and as varied as the spa at the Barceló Monasterio de Boltaña Spa. The spa features:
- “Aguas del Ara” Spa Circuit
- Large hydrotherapy pool with hot springs
- Counter-current swimming unit
- Oxygenating bubble beds
- Three different-temperature cloverleaf-shaped hot tubs
- Turkish bath
- Roman bath
- Ordesa rain shower room
- Sensory showers with aromatherapy
I spent an hour completely alone in the spa–just me and a lot of bubbling, pummeling water. Heaven!
Go to the Pyrenees and consider staying at the Barceló Monasterio de Boltaña Spa.
Conclusion
To find more of my recommended accommodations in Europe, take a look at posts for individual countries including:
Have you stayed in a place that you’d recommend to other artsy travelers? Please share your experiences in the Comments section below.
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