If you’re looking to elevate your photography skills and truly capture the grandeur of Jasper, Alberta, treat yourself to a Jasper Photo Tour.
Guided by professional photographers Mike and Beth Gere, these small-group tours offer everything from wildlife and night-sky photography to early-morning “golden light” excursions.
Whether you’re a beginner with a smartphone or a pro with a DSLR, you’ll come away inspired — and with better photos than you thought possible.
We were lucky — we had him all to ourselves, which meant a session perfectly tailored to our interests and skill levels.
Julia, a crochet artist, wanted to photograph the miniature train she had crocheted against the sweeping backdrop of Jasper’s peaks. Mike happily accommodated, offering tips on staging, depth of field, and composition for her Nikon SLR.
Here’s how our luminous morning unfolded.
Lake Beauvert
Mike picked us up at our hotel, Lobstick Lodge, right at 8 a.m. and drove to a quiet vantage point overlooking Lake Beauvert, with views across the still water toward the super swanky Jasper Park Lodge.
He began by giving Julia a quick refresher on focal lengths and exposure settings while I wandered the shoreline, iPhone in hand, chasing reflections and texture.
One of my favorite captures from that morning was this twisty tree silhouetted against the mirror flat lake, mountains rising beyond like a watercolor wash.
After her refresher lesson, Julia worked on taking pictures of her crochet train in front of the view.
River Views
We hopped back into Mike’s SUV and wound our way toward a bridge over a rushing stream, stopping often to scout compositions. Although the morning was overcast, the moody light lent itself well to dramatic shots.
Mike showed me how to use my iPhone to blur the rushing water in the photo below.
Burnscapes and Renewal
Many of our stops took us through haunting burnscapes — blackened trunks from the July 2024 wildfire standing stark against a bruised sky.
Mike told us about his experience during the terrible fire that wiped out many homes and businesses in Jasper.
On a positive note, the residents of Jasper are rebuilding. Just over a year later, you’ll see evidence of the fire everywhere in the form of burned trees and vacant lots, but you’ll also see a lot of rebuilding, with almost all hotels and restaurants again welcoming visitors.
Wildlife Encounter
On the way back toward Jasper, Mike’s eagle eyes spotted elk grazing in a river valley. He parked and led us down a narrow path bordered by burned trunks, and pointed out a safe vantage point from which to watch a female elk pick her way across the river, her reflection shimmering in the current.
I snap a few photos with my iPhone zoomed to the max, but the results are just okay compared to the shots below that Mike took with his professional camera and large zoom lens. Beautiful!
Elk taken October 4, 2025, Mike GereElk taken October 4, 2025, Mike Gere
Looking at Mike’s photos makes me think about taking up photography with a decent camera again! Perhaps one day.
What We Learned (and What You Will, Too)
Even a short two-hour tour left us with a surprising amount of new knowledge — and confidence.
I finally learned how to use Live Mode on my iPhone to photograph flowing water, then apply loop, bounce, or blur effects.
Mike showed me how to dial in scene brightness before pressing the shutter — a small trick that makes a big difference.
Julia’s understanding of exposure, composition, and creative framing sharpened significantly during our session.
Even as a so-called “non-photographer,” I was given thoughtful pointers on framing and lighting. Mike has a gift for meeting people exactly where they are.
Tours on Offer at Jasper Photo Tours
On their website, Mike and Beth offer a well-rounded lineup of photographic experiences, suited to all levels and interests. Here’s a sampling of available tours:
Tour Type
Duration & Price*
What You’ll Do
Intro to Photography (2 hrs)
CA$210
A beginner-focused workshop covering fundamentals — ideal for newcomers
Night Photography Tour (2 hrs)
CA$210
Shoot in Jasper’s Dark Sky Preserve, learn long exposures, star trails, aurora opportunities
Wildlife Photography Tour (3 hrs)
CA$315
Head to prime wildlife zones, with more time to wait, stalk, and capture animal moments
8-Hour Icefields Tour
All day
Venture along the Icefields Parkway, glacier views, sweeping landscapes
* Prices as listed on Jasper Photo Tours’ “Book a Tour” page in Canadian dollars.
Mike and Beth keep groups intimate — no more than three photographers per tour, ensuring personalized instruction. And non-photographer companions can tag along for free.
Our Evening: Night Skies & Jasper SkyTram
Inspired by Mike’s encouragement, Julia and I decided to continue our photo adventure that evening by signing up for the Jasper SkyTram Night Sky Experience.
Jasper SkyTram offers special night-sky excursions on Saturday evenings in September and Friday/Saturday evenings in October — timed perfectly for sunset and stargazing.
As the sun dipped, the peaks blushed gold and pink. We walked around the boardwalk encircling the restaurant at the top of the SkyTram to capture dozens of shots of the spectacular view. Here are just a few.
Once darkness fell, we joined astronomers from the Jasper Planetarium, who had set up telescopes along the boardwalk. We gazed at the moon, stars, and almost glimpsed Saturn before clouds rolled in.
Inside the tram-top restaurant where we retreated to warm up with hot chocolates, I noticed several large night-sky and aurora images taken by Mike Gere.
In Jasper, everyone seems to know everyone. When we mentioned to one of the astronomers that we’d taken a photography tour that morning, he smiled knowingly — “Ah, with Mike? He’s up here shooting right now.” He pointed to the icy path leading away from the boardwalk and around the side of the mountain.
Why I Recommend Jasper Photo Tours
Tailored instruction – Small groups mean lessons match your pace and interests.
Access to hidden gems – Explore early-morning and off-the-beaten-path locations.
Creative learning – You’ll deepen both technique and storytelling through your lens.
Welcoming to non-photographers – Companions are free to join and still learn.
Dark Sky advantage – Jasper’s pristine night skies make for stunning astrophotography.
If you’re visiting Jasper, whether as a dedicated photographer or a curious traveler, I can’t recommend Jasper Photo Tours enough. You’ll leave not only with better pictures, but with a deeper appreciation for the rhythm of light, landscape, and creativity itself.
Best Season: May–October for landscapes; October for Dark Sky stargazing
Book Early: Spots fill quickly during fall foliage and aurora season
Final Reflection
As someone who usually points and shoots with an iPhone, I didn’t expect to come away from a morning photo tour in the mountains feeling so creatively charged.
But that’s the beauty of Jasper Photo Tours — they meet you where you are and help you see and appreciate the world in front of you.
For more about photography tours, check out my post about the photography tour I enjoyed in Rome a few weeks before traveling to Jasper:
Moms and daughters can make excellent travel companions. If you’re looking for a special way to celebrate your relationship with your mom or your daughter, consider a rail journey with Rocky Mountaineer.
Away from your daily lives, you can relax and enjoy each other’s company while you gaze at the spectacular scenery sliding past your window, explore interesting locations together, and soak up new experiences.
My Daughter and Me
Since my daughter Julia was five years old, I’ve taken trips just with her—from two-day visits to nearby Victoria, BC, when she was little to exploring England when she was 14, riding the rails around Japan when she was 18, and in recent years, exploring Costa Rica, Greece, and Iceland.
One of our most delightful mother-daughter bonding experiences has been the two journeys we’ve taken on the iconic Rocky Mountaineer:
Two-day Journey Through the Clouds from Vancouver to Jasper via Kamloops (2023)
Three-day Rainforest to Gold Rush from Vancouver to Quesnel to Jasper (2025)
In this post, I share my experience on the three-day Rainforest to Gold Rush journey I recently enjoyed on the Rocky Mountaineer.
At 8:30 am, we board the Rocky Mountaineer from a nondescript railyard in North Vancouver, not far from Julia’s apartment. Day 1 is short with just three hours on the train to cover about 90 miles. But it’s packed full of breathtaking scenic beauty.
We settle into our roomy GoldLeaf dome seats and start exploring the various comfort buttons. The massive glass windows arch high overhead, so as soon as the train gets underway, I feel like I’m floating through the trees.
West Vancouver
Within minutes, we leave behind the industrial rail yards and skirt Ambleside Beach in West Vancouver, one of Canada’s wealthiest neighborhoods. Moss-draped trees frame glimpses of ocean and gorgeous homes clinging to the cliffs.
We pass Bowen Island where I live (pictured below) brooding under the leaden clouds.
There’s so much to look at that I spend most of my time snapping photos and oohing and aahing at the spectacular beauty of this corner of the world.
I’m entranced—and I live here!
Along the Sea to Sky Highway
Even in a drizzly west coast rain, the route along the Sea to Sky Highway is stunning. To the left as we head north is the glassy expanse of Howe Sound and to the right rise sheer cliffs.
Food on the Rocky Mountaineer
The Rocky Mountaineer is justifiably famous for its food and hospitality. Two meals are provided on full days and one on the shorter first day. Each carriage divides its 70 guests into two sittings. On the first day, we are scheduled for the later breakfast. The next day, we’ll be in the first seating.
While we wait, we’re served hot drinks (the coffee is excellent) along with warm cranberry bread drizzled with lemon sauce. Around 10:30 am, the cheerful hosts invite us down to the dining car, where choices include eggs benedict, smoked salmon avocado toast, pancakes, and chia pudding (my favorite, pictured below).
Practical tip:
GoldLeaf service includes all meals, drinks, and snacks. Dietary restrictions can be accommodated if noted at booking.
Arriving in Whistler
By noon, we’re pulling into Whistler Creekside. I wax nostalgic with my daughter (part of the mother-daughter bonding experience) about my first visit back in the 1970s, when Whistler was barely ten years old.
In those days, we skied in blue jeans no matter how cold the weather got, and a day pass cost $7. Nowadays, a day pass costs around $300. Mind you, skiers now get access to dozens of runs on two mountains (Whistler and Blackcomb) instead of only the handful of runs available on Whistler at the time, so comparatively speaking, it’s probably still a bargain.
The sleek Creekside area looks much different with its modern condos, cafés, and shops. In 1973, I remember a gas station, a pub, the hostel where I stayed, and that’s about it.
Staying in Whistler
A fleet of buses whisks us to our accommodations. We’re staying at the Delta Hotels by Marriott Whistler Villages Suites, centrally located in the village. (Luggage is delivered directly to your room—a helpful touch.)
We drop our day packs and head out to explore. The sun bursts forth to burnish the fall colors of the beautifully landscaped Whistler village.
Whistler VillageFirst Nations SculptureUpper Village
Exploring Whistler
I’d hoped to visit the Audain Art Gallery but alas, it’s closed on Wednesdays. Instead, we explore the Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre in the Upper Village. The informative film and guided tour introduce us to cedar canoe traditions, animal pelts (the ferret one is unbelievably soft!), and the rich culture of the First Nations people who have lived here for millennia.
Squamish-Lil’wat CentreJulia & a Mounain GoatTwo Bears
We stroll back through the village to shop to pick up souvenirs for my great-niece and brand new great-nephew before checking in to the hotel. Our spacious suite includes a separate bedroom, along with a full kitchen and cozy living area.
Guided Activities in Whistler
If you have time while in Whistler, consider one of these activities. I did the zip lining adventure on another trip to Whistler with my daughter and can highly recommend it for those craving a bit of excitement. It was definitely a good mother-daughter bonding experience!
We enjoy dinner at Brickworks, conveniently located in our hotel. Since it’s off season, a dinner deal is offered—three generous courses for $45.
I start with mussels from Prince Edward Island swimming in a cream broth so good I want to lick the bowl. Next is perfectly cooked duck breast with potatoes and salad. It’s a lot of food and I struggle valiantly to at least finish the duck. Julia orders the chicken and is defeated halfway through her dinner.
Brickworks is known for its gin, though I opt for rum-based cocktails since gin is my least favorite spirit.
The server helpfully suggests we get our desserts to go since we are both full to bursting. I order the carrot cake; Julia orders the chocolate cake. They arrive conveniently boxed up and we return to our room.
With a six a.m. wake-up call pending, we get to bed early, although the excitement of the day keeps me awake until the wee hours.
Day 2: Whistler to Quesnel
We’re in the lobby at 6:30 am, and then out into the teeming rain to catch the bus. A 35-minute drive in the dark takes us to Pemberton where the train awaits.
As the sky begins to lighten, we see a group of schoolchildren waving us off, as they apparently do every week during the season. It’s a small, heartwarming ritual that feels very Canadian.
The train sets off and we prepare for a 12-hour day of gliding through some of BC’s most spectacular scenery. I’ve never traveled through the region north of Whistler so I’m excited to explore a new-to-me part of my province.
Lakes, Lakes, and More Lakes
We skirt the edge of Anderson Lake for several kilometers. To our left are craggy slabs of granite so close they threaten to scrape the dome as we pass. Trees sprout at unlikely angles, their silhouettes stark against the sky .
To our right the gleaming waters of Anderson Lake stretch to phalanxes of forested peaks disappearing into the mist. Occasionally, the sun breaks through to kiss the craggy summits.
Slowly, the dense rainforest gives way to dry, tawny hills.
Into the Desert
From green glacier lakes and dark green trees, the landscape transforms. Grey-green sagebrush tumbles down hillsides painted in twenty shades of brown—from light beige to rust red.
We are entering the great interior desert—an ecosystem that stretches from British Columbia to Mexico.
Every so often, I descend to the outdoor viewing platform on the first level of the two-level train. We are fortunate to be seated in the last car and so have a clear view of the rails speeding off into the distance.
Over the three days, I snap a lot of photos of receding tracks.
The Cariboo Plateau
By early afternoon, we reach the Cariboo Plateau. For the rest of the day, we’ll traverse this stunning region of rolling hills and big skies. We are taking the journey in early October, so the predominant colors are sizzling yellows and oranges, punctuated occasionally by pops of flame red.
One of the hosts tells us he never tires of this view because it changes constantly—from snow-capped spring to flower-bright summer to blazing fall.
Lunch today is a highlight: salmon with a glass of crisp Sauvignon Blanc for me, pork tenderloin for Julia, followed by lavender lemon posset and blueberry cheesecake.
Somewhere near Williams Lake, I doze off, rocked by the rhythm of the rails.
North to Quesnel
Golden aspens flash by as the sun dips low. Near Soda Creek, we pass through an area that in 2017 was the epicenter of a massive forest fire, one of the biggest in BC history at the time.
There is something immensely soothing about riding at a sedate pace along tracks so high they skim the tops of the trees. The views in the golden evening light are breathtaking.
Although I’ve been on the train now since 8 am and it’s now almost 6 pm, I don’t feel bored or particularly hankering to get off. What with getting up frequently to snap photos from the outdoor viewing platform and just relaxing and enjoying the view, the time passes pleasantly.
We’re told that our arrival in Quesnel will be slightly delayed so a dinner service is offered to those who wish it. We say yes, of course.
Sunset descends over the Caribou Plateau; the shimmering light providing plenty of opportunities for spectacular photos.
Overnight in Quesnel
We pull into Quesnel and see people waving. Our host tells us how generous and welcoming the people of Quesnel have consistently been during the twenty-five years that the Rainforest to Goldrush route has been running.
After disembarking, we hop on the bus for the fifteen minute drive to the Sandman Hotel. It’s located out on the highway so there’s not much around except chain restaurants, a 7-11, and a Walmart. We head out for a much-needed walk.
It’s to bed early again in preparation for a 6:45 am departure on day 3.
Day 3: Quesnel to Jasper
Morning brings mist, marshes, and forests glowing with golden fall colors.
The landscape inspires me to wax nostalgic (more mother-daughter bonding) about the year I spent in Mackenzie, a pulp mill town located about a hundred miles north of Prince George, which is on our route.
This forest is similar to the landscape I remember from that year. It was my first year of teaching high school back in 1979. I wasn’t cut out for life in the North and relocated to Vancouver to teach for two more years before quitting to seek my fortune in Toronto.
The rain blurs the windows, but the beauty outside still shines through.
Marshes, Beavers, and Quiet Contemplation
We spot beaver dams, shimmering lakes, and evergreens punctuated by bright aspens. Our hosts—Naomi from Ireland and Avi from Vancouver—share stories about the region’s history and wildlife.
Commentary is light, informative, amusing, and never intrusive. There’s ample time just to be and watch the world go by.
Drinks & Snacks
Between meals, the hosts circulate with drinks and snacks. I stick mostly to mocktails and soda water, although I try one Caesar (verdict: not for me).
Meals on Day 3
Breakfast is chia pudding again and lunch is melt-in-your-mouth beef short rib. Every dish is prepared fresh onboard by the carriage’s own chef—an impressive feat considering the train’s gentle sway.
Mount Robson and Arrival in Jasper
Late afternoon brings us to Mount Robson, the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies. As usual, a portion of its summit hides behind clouds, but the mountain is majestic nonetheless.
As we near Jasper and the end of our journey, the chef comes upstairs and serves us a freshly-baked cookie still warm from the oven.
For most of the journey, Julia has been crocheting a blue and gold train. She finishes it just in time for one of the hosts to show it off to the rest of the guests.
Time in Jasper
We bid farewell to the wonderful Rocky Mountaineer crew and head to our hotel, the Lobstick Lodge. The lodge is a good choice if you’re on a budget (like we are), but if you really want to splash out, check into the luxurious Jasper Park Lodge.
If you take the Rocky Mountaineer to Jasper, I recommend spending at least one full day exploring the town and surroundings.
On our last trip in 2023, Julia and I took a tour to Maligne Lake and Maligne Canyon. Unfortunately, Maligne Canyon is currently closed while Parks Canada assesses the fire damage resulting from the devastating fire of 2024 that destroyed half the town of Jasper.
Fortunately, Maligne Lake and the boat tours are still operating. Here is an option from GetYourGuide:
On this trip, we opted to take a morning photography tour with Jasper Photo Tours and then in the late afternoon took the Jasper SkyTram to the top of the mountain. We were blown away by stupendous views of the surrounding peaks glowing in the setting sun.
🌲 Top Five Reasons to Take the Rainforest to Gold Rush
Ever-Changing Landscapes – From misty rainforests to desert canyons to alpine peaks, this route is a moving art gallery of British Columbia’s wild beauty.
Unparalleled Comfort – GoldLeaf Service offers panoramic dome windows, gourmet meals, and hosts who remember your name and your favorite drink.
Slow Travel at Its Finest – No rush, no stress—just the rhythmic lull of rails and the joy of watching the world go by at a sedate pace.
Deep Connection – Whether you’re traveling with a parent, partner, or friend, uninterrupted time together fosters real conversation and memory-making.
Photography Heaven – The outdoor viewing platform and shifting light offer endless opportunities for iconic shots.
Practical Information
Route: Vancouver → Whistler → Quesnel → Jasper
Duration: 3 days / 2 nights
Season: Runs from late April through early October
Included: Meals, drinks, snacks, hotels in Whistler and Quesnel, luggage transfer
Dress Code: Casual layers; bring a light rain jacket for West Coast weather
Booking: Reserve at least 6 months ahead, especially for GoldLeaf class in peak season
Final Thoughts
If you’re on the fence about taking this journey with your daughter, your son, your spouse, or a friend—jump off the fence and book. You won’t regret it.
The Rocky Mountaineer isn’t just a train; it’s a slow, luxurious ribbon tying together nature, nostalgia, and meaningful connection.
Here are some more posts about my home country of Canada:
As many North American travelers have said before me, visiting Québec City is like going to Europe—without the jet lag.
This cobblestoned throwback to the 17th century oozes charm, charisma, and, yes, crowds.
But don’t let its popularity deter you. With thoughtful timing, you can experience the quieter side of the city, especially in its delightful, often uncrowded museums and winding alleyways full of art, history, and fabulous food.
Québec City is one of the oldest continuously occupied cities in North America. As I learned way back in Grade 4 Social Studies, Samuel de Champlain showed up in 1608 and established the first settlement, claiming it for France.
In 1759, the British clashed with the French at the Plains of Abraham (which you can visit). Unfortunately for the French, the British won, thereby sparking almost four centuries of friction between English Canada and French Canada that still shows little sign of abating.
Follow Canadian politics for awhile and you’ll see what I mean.
Modern Québec City is proud, artsy, and unmistakably Québécois—with a distinctly European flair that’s hard to resist.
Language Barrier? Not Really.
Don’t worry if you’re an Anglophone. Québec City is a tourist town, and most people will speak English to you and be nice about it, particularly if you throw out the occasional bonjour and merci.
I received many tolerant, albeit occasionally weary smiles, every time I tried speaking my schoolgirl French. I excused my ineptitude by telling people I’m from the west coast of Canada, to which most sagely nodded in understanding.
My First Visit—and How Things Have Changed
I first visited Québec City in 1967 when I was eleven years old on a trip “back east” to visit Expo 67 in Montreal.
I remembered being surprised not only by how old Québec City was (unlike Vancouver, which was established in 1871), but also how poor.
Back then, Québec City was not the tourist mecca it has become.
In 1967, the area called Old Québec or Vieux Québec, where the tourists now flock, was run down and depressing.
Thankfully, all that’s changed in favor of a faux 17th century, vaguely manufactured vibe. Yes, it’s touristy but it still manages to be charming enough to have you snapping pictures at every turn.
The ancient buildings are spruced up with colorful shutters and chi chi shops, while souvenir emporiums and excellent restaurants abound. There’s even a place that only sells popcorn (it’s really good, btw).
Within a few hours of arriving in Québec City, you’ll naturally slow down and let the culture seep into your bones. It’s that kind of place.
Map of Québec City
The sites described in this post are shown on the map below. The numbers correspond to the order of sites in the top ten list.
Located in the vaults of the Historic Maison Chevalier at the base of Old Québec, this 360 immersive experience (#1 on the map) catapults you into the history of Québec City.
Yes, it’s super cheesy—and I loved it!
I popped into the last showing of the day and was the only customer, which suited me fine. The friendly attendant cheerfully helped me don a 3D headset and then got me settled to enjoy the show.
Seconds later, I was paddling a canoe along the Saint Lawrence River and communing with the local indigenous people—the Wendat (more on them later!).
I thoroughly enjoyed the entire experience, even if the digitization was sometimes less than stellar. But hey, I learned a lot about Québec history, which was a big selling point for me.
You’ll get a more in-depth and serious view of history at the nearby Museum of Civilization (see #5), but if you’re looking for a quick intro, check out Immersion Québec.
The presentation is available in French, English, Spanish and Mandarin.
👉 Insider Tip: Go later in the afternoon to avoid crowds. Reserve online during peak times. Website here
👉 “Looking for a fun way to start your visit? Book a 2‑hour Grand Walking Tour of Old Quebec City that ties in beautifully with Immersion Québec’s themes.
2. Wander Through Vieux-Québec (Old Québec)
Old Québec (#2) is sometimes the only part of Québec City that visitors spending an afternoon will see, which is a shame. But if you’re short of time, make the warren of cobbled streets that make up OId Québec your main stop.
This compact and walkable UNESCO World Heritage Site is basically a few streets lined with shops and cafes. Take your time and stop into some of the many galleries and gift shops.
Check Out the Murals
One of my favorite sites is this massive mural painting on the side of one of the old buildings.
On a hot summer day, you’re shaded by colorful umbrellas floating overhead.
For the energetically inclined, climb the stairs to Dufferin Terrace to enjoy the wide boardwalk and sweeping views of the St. Lawrence River. For those who prefer not to climb a lot of stairs, take the funicular (see below!).
Dufferin Terrace
If you’re visiting Québec City for several days (highly recommended!), stroll Dufferin Terrace at various times of day to enjoy the varying views of the river and the Chateau Frontenac.
Imagine standing here four hundred years ago and looking down at the river crowded with sailing ships and canoes.
Ride the Funicular
You can also choose to take the short funicular ride up the cliff face to Dufferin Terrace. Be warned that you need cash. If you don’t have it (who has cash these days?), there is an ATM in the kiosk at the bottom of the funicular.
When you exit from the funicular, you’ll see the iconic Château Frontenac directly in front of you.
Built in 1893, the castle-like hotel is one of several established across Canada by the Canadian Pacific Railways. These iconic hotels have been taken over by Fairmont and are pretty much the last word in luxury (and price!).
If you have the budget, book a room and enjoy the views and the elegant service. If your budget is more modest, go into Château Frontenac anyway to admire the beautiful lobby, snap some photos, and browse the fancy shops.
The Château Frontenac is probably one of the most photographed hotels in Canada.
After strolling Dufferin Terrace,, check out Rue du Trésor to the right of Château Frontenac as you face it with your back to the river. Here, you’ll find plenty of stalls selling arts and crafts by local artists.
Also wander along Rue Saint Anne to check out several good restaurants and boutique hotels. I stayed at the Auberge Place d’Armes on Rue Saint Anne.
For Québec City, the room was quite reasonable and charmingly old.
3. Join a Themed Walking Tour
I recommend wandering Old Québec on your own for awhile and then booking a walking tour that focuses on a specific topic that interests you.
The Québec City website lists a variety of walking tours ranging from exploring with Louise Penny’s Inspector Gamache to seeing Old Québec through the eyes of a 17th century Fille du Roi (King’s Daughter).
Who is a Fille du Roi, you ask? Take the tour and find out!
I took a walking tour with Cicerone Tours. Led by a costumed guide who was an architecture buff, the tour provided a good overview of Québec history that was off-the-beaten track.
👉 Here are some walking tour options with GetYourGuide:
4. Visit the Saint-Louis Forts and Châteaux Historic Site
On my previous visits to Québec City, I’d not toured this gem of historical sightseeing (#4) because it didn’t yet exist. Well, the old fort existed—its ruins date from 1620—but it had yet to be excavated and opened to the public.
I highly recommend signing up for the 45-minute tour run by enthusiastic Parks Canada guides. You’ll descend beneath Dufferin Terrace in front of the Château Frontenac to explore the only archaeological crypt in North America.
How cool is that?
You’ll see the archaeological vestiges of the official residence of the French and British governors, which was also the seat of power for the former colony, between 1620 and 1834.
You’ll also view the remnants of the four forts and two chateaux (governor’s residences) erected on the site over the years, as well as the nearby outbuildings.
5.Bring Culture to Life at the Museum of Civilization (Musée de la civilisation)
I do love a Museum of Civilization and the one in Québec City is a good’un (#5).
Wander through several interactive exhibits and beautifully curated displays to learn about the history of Québec—both human and natural, including exhibitions featuring Québec’s indigenous peoples and global pop culture.
Plan to spend at least an hour. The museum is located right in the Old Port, so after your visit, stroll along the waterfront and back into Old Québec to enjoy a drink (or two).
🧡 Lunch Tip: Try Le Lapin Sauté nearby for rabbit dishes and charming terrace seating.
6. Get Inspired at the Musée national des beaux-arts du Québec (MNBAQ)
The Musée national des beaux-arts du Québec (#6) was the highlight of my five-day visit to Québec City.
MNBAQ blends old and new architectural styles and is a must-see for art lovers visiting Québec City.
Four spacious floors of well-organized exhibition space provide visitors with a good overview of art by Québec artists, including one whole floor dedicated to Inuit and indigenous art.
Special Exhibition – Niki de Saint Phalle
The special exhibition showcased the art and career of Niki de Saint Phalle, an artist who I have admired for decades. Her whimsical, brightly-colored sculptures are impossible to look at without smiling.
The comprehensive exhibition included work from Saint Phalle’s long career, starting with photographs of the rifle paintings that brought her to the attention of the art work in the 1950s.
Several rooms are devoted to Niki de Saint Phalle’s masterwork—the Il Giardino dei Tarocchi (Tarot Garden) in Italy, which I’d visited several years earlier.
Niki’s fascination with serpentine forms and snakes is delightfully acknowledged in the exhibition with several animated snakes slithering across the floor. I spent several minutes watching them slide under walls and over feet.
The gorgeously curated and beautifully displayed exhibition will captivate both children and adults.
Contemporary Quebec Art
After touring the special exhibition at the Musée des Beaux Arts, head up the bright and airy stairwell to the second floor where you’ll find several rooms full of art by Québec artists.
For me, the highlight is the paintings by Riopelle, one of my favorite Canadian abstract artists from the 1950s and 60s.
Inuit and Indigenous Art
Exhibited on the top floor is a marvelous collection of sculptures by Inuit and Indigenous artists from all over Québec. Informative explanations are provided in both English and French
After touring the top floor, step out onto the rooftop terrace to enjoy a view of Québec City.
The Musée national des beaux-arts du Québec is located about 30 minutes from the main action in Old Québec and from most of the hotels.
7. Relive History at the Plains of Abraham
I learned all about the battle of the Plains of Abraham (#7) back in Grade 4.
In British Columbia, where I grew up and still live in, the British were the heroes. So when I first visited the Plains of Abraham in 1967, I was surprised to discover two things. First, the people in Québec were not happy that the British won and second, the Plains of Abraham isn’t really a plain.
It’s a lovely landscaped park-like area that looks nothing what I’d envisioned. I guess I thought there’s still be dead bodies littering the dusty ground.
A visit to the Plains of Abraham combines history and nature. The site of the pivotal 1759 battle is part of Battlefields Park and stretches over 100 hectares. You’ll enjoy sweeping views of the St. Lawrence River, tree-lined walking paths, gardens, and wide-open green spaces.
For a good history hit, explore the Plains of Abraham Museum, where interactive exhibits and multimedia presentations recount the famous battle and colonial life.
You can easily walk to the park from Old Québec. In summer, visitors can also enjoy concerts, guided historical tours, and reenactments.
8. Walk the Ramparts
Did you know that Québec City is the only fortified city in North America outside of Mexico? How cool is that! The Fortifications of Québec stretch nearly 4.6 kilometers and encircle much of Old Québec, with towers, gates, and stone walls that date back to the 17th century.
For a relaxing, history-soaked experience, take an hour or two to walk along the ramparts—especially from St. Louis Gate (#8) to the Citadelle. Along the way, you’ll get plenty of great views of the St. Lawrence River and Old Québec.
If you’re into military history, stop off at La Citadelle de Québec, which is an active military base and the largest British-built fortress in North America. In summer, you can watch the Changing of the Guard ceremony at 10 am.
9. Visit the Huron-Wendat Museum in Wendake
If you have a car, drive about twenty minutes outside the city core to Wendake, a Huron-Wendat Nation community. Here, you can enjoy the marvelous Huron-Wendat Museum (#9).
I had the museum almost to myself, which was awesome because there was so much to see and read and interact with. You’ll learn a lot about the art, history, and spiritual life of the Wendat people.
The first thing I learned was that I grew up mislabeling the Wendat people as the Huron—the name given to the nation by the colonists. I’m glad to have learned differently and also to have discovered such a rich culture.
Exhibits at the museum include intricate beadwork, traditional crafts, and powerful storytelling offering a new perspective on colonial narratives.
Time it right and you might catch a traditional dance performance or artisan workshop. It’s immersive, respectful, and deeply enriching.
10. Soak in Local Flavor (Literally) in Québec’s Food Scene
You don’t have to go far to enjoy excellent food in Québec! From traditional French dishes such as onion soup and escargots to more adventurous fare that incorporates indigenous flavors, you’ll find lots to enjoy.
Here’s an escargot dish I ate at one of the charming restaurants on rue Saint-Anne.
Venture outside Old Québec to explore some of the upscale restaurants along Grande Allée Est and some funkier choices along Rue Saint-Jean. I had the best crepe of my life (and I’ve eaten crepes in France many times) in a little bistro called Le Billig on Rue Saint-Jean.
Be sure to try local cheeses, maple treats, and the iconic tourtière. For an artsy twist, check out Le Monastère des Augustines, where the cuisine is both health-focused and beautifully plated.
🧡 My favorites:
Le Billig (#10) on Rue Saint-Jean: Best crepe of my life.
Le Monastère des Augustines: Artistic, healthy, and serene.
Grande Allée Est: Elegant fine dining.
Rue Sainte-Anne: Quirky, cozy, and cool.
Don’t miss tourtière, local cheeses, and anything maple.
Bonus Artsy Stops
Galerie d’Art Inuit Brousseau – Stunning Indigenous art
Palais Montcalm – Jazz and classical concerts in a gorgeous Art Deco venue
Carnaval de Québec (winter) – Ice, lights, street theater, and giant Bonhomme
Sleek, stylish, and centrally located with strong art-focused design.
Conclusion
Québec City’s long and fascinating history—both indigenous and colonial—makes it one of the most compelling places to visit in North America. The people of Québec are serious about preserving their culture while still welcoming the world.
Enjoy the history and the art, but also take the time to relax, sample the excellent food, and experience a bit of the joie de vivre that is uniquely Québécois.
Have you visited Québec City? Share your recommendations for other artsy travelers in the comments below.
If you’re looking for a family-friendly outing in Vancouver, carve out a few hours to visit the Vancouver Museum (AKA the Museum of Vancouver).
After getting a good hit of cultural history, walk the seawall or hop on the False Creek ferry to Granville Island for lunch and shopping.
At the Museum of Vancouver (MOV), you’ll discover the cultural history of the city. A series of exhibits take you on a journey past hundreds of artifacts used by individuals and communities that have called the area home.
Take a food tour of Granville Island Public Market
Introduction
I’ve lived in Vancouver all my life. I remember when the Museum of Vancouver was built in 1968. I also remember when, in 1979, Granville Island was transformed from an industrial wasteland to a major Vancouver tourist attraction.
On a recent bright and sunny January day, I joined the throngs of Vancouverites who emerge when the sun shines and headed for Kitsilano. This laid-back residential area is one of Vancouver’s most beautiful with its huge saltwater pool and mountain views from Kitsilano Beach.
Here, I toured the Museum of Vancouver and then rode the False Creek ferry to Granville Island for lunch and shopping.
The spectacular views of this area of Vancouver never get old.
Whether you’re a local or a visitor, make time to visit the Vancouver Museum. Then, get yourself over to bustling Granville Island, an especially enjoyable outing on a sunny day.
Locations
The Museum of Vancouver (#1) is located at 1100 Chestnut Street in Vanier Park (#2) in Vancouver’s Kitsilano neighborhood. It is within the unceded territory of the Musqueam, Squamish, and Tsleil-Waututh Nations.
Vanier Park occupies most of Kitsilano Point and overlooks stunning views of the mountains, the ocean and False Creek. Downtown Vancouver is about a fifteen-minute bus or car ride away.
Granville Island is located about a 20-minute walk from Vanier Park under the Granville Street Bridge at the edge of False Creek. For decades, the area was a polluted blight on the Vancouver skyline.
After its extensive makeover starting in 1979, Granville Island now teems with shops and activities, including a great area for children and the world-famous Granville Island Public Market (#3).
Stroll along the seawall or take the False Creek ferry to Granville Island for lunch.
Return to the area to enjoy a matinée at Bard on the Beach (#4), a five-minute walk from the MOV.
History of the Museum of Vancouver
Originally located in downtown Vancouver, the museum was founded in 1894 by a group of art and history enthusiasts who amassed a collection of artifacts and donations from local citizens.
In 1968, the building where the museum is now housed was erected in Vanier Park. The MOV shares its iconic building with the Vancouver Planetarium and the H.R. Macmillan Space Centre. The distinctive dome is meant to resemble the woven basket hats made by Northwest Coast First Nations peoples.
Initially called the Centennial Museum and then the Vancouver Museum, the new building was renamed the Museum of Vancouver in 2009 and the museum positioned as the place to go to learn about Vancouver’s cultural history.
I first visited the MOA not long after it opened in 1968 and have continued to revisit every decade or so, sometimes to take in a special exhibition, or to enjoy the fascinating permanent collection. I always find something new to look at and learn.
Explore the Galleries
The MOV is Vancouver’s largest civic museum and features several history galleries, starting with galleries dedicated to the First Nations people who lived on this bountiful land for centuries before contact with people from other parts of the world, primarily Europe and Asia.
The City Before the City: c̓əsnaʔəm
The first gallery contains The City Before the City exhibition that features c̓əsnaʔəm, the ancestral village of the Musqueam First Nation. On display are bone, stone, and shell objects from c̓əsnaʔəm that have survived for thousands of years.
The exhibition is both respectful and informative, with the aim of educating visitors about the people who inhabited the land before it was transformed by the streets and buildings we see today.
Listening stations encourage visitors to slow down, don a pair of headphones, and then watch and listen to videos narrated by First Nations people about their history and the exhibits.
That Which Sustains Us
The focus of the That Which Sustain Us gallery is on the land itself and how interactions with it are shaped by culture. You’ll learn about traditional ecological knowledge in addition to the consequences of deforestation and the urbanization of Vancouver.
I particularly enjoyed the exhibits showcasing ancestral skills such as making leather from tanning fish skin and creating dye pigments from the mushrooms found in local forests.
Also included is this wall showing words from the Musqueam language.
1900s to 1920s: Gateway to the Pacific
I’m a third-generation Vancouverite, with both sets of grandparents settling in Vancouver around 1911, coincidentally a few blocks apart. My maternal grandmother remembers carrying water to their log cabin, and I grew up on stories about the expanding city.
The Gateway to the Pacific gallery features thoughtfully curated displays related to the lives of the early settlers, both European and Asian. Photographs, mannequins dressed in vintage clothing, and an impressive collection of objects bring the era to life.
Other displays relate to Vancouver during World War I. My maternal great-grandfather, who was originally from England, left Vancouver in 1914 to fight overseas and was killed in 1916 when my grandmother was just 10 years old.
1930s to 1940s: Boom, Bust, and War
The exhibits in this gallery chronicle the growth of Vancouver through difficult times culminating in World War II.
A dark stain on the city’s history was the internment of people from the well-established Japanese-Canadian community following the bombing of Pearl Harbor. I know people whose grandparents and parents were relocated to internment camps in the interior of British Columbia. My mother, who lived not far from one of the internment camps in the early 1940s, remembered seeing the displaced people.
My mother moved to Vancouver in 1942 when my grandfather got work in one of the many new factories gearing up production for the war effort, and met my dad in high school. I remember my grandmother’s kitchen looking very similar to this one:
1950s: The ‘50s Gallery
For many of the people who settled in Vancouver, the post-war city was a hopeful place where home ownership was within reach. That was certainly the case for my family. We moved into our first house in the Kerrisdale neighborhood of Vancouver in 1960.
The exhibits in this gallery bring back fuzzy memories. I got a kick out of the old wringer washer which reminded me of my brother trying to put my Barbie doll through the wringer. He was not successful, as I recall.
Check out the display of neon signs. Vancouver was famous for its neon, mostly clustered along Granville Street. The full-size car is a nice touch.
1960s – 1970s: You Say You Want a Revolution
If you were born prior to the 1970s, you’ll experience a major walk down memory lane in this gallery. And even if you’re not from Vancouver, you’ll likely recognize something of your past in the exhibits.
As in many places in North America, the 1960s and 1970s in Vancouver were a time of contention. The city was growing fast, with protests, “hippies”, and alternative lifestyles front and center. The environmental group Greenpeace started in Vancouver during this period.
A highlight of this fun yet also thought-provoking gallery was seeing a poster with my husband’s name on it. Gregg Simpson was very active in the art scene during the late 1960s and early 1970s, both as an artist and a musician.
I spent quite a bit of time squinting at the many old photographs in the exhibit to catch a glimpse of him. We weren’t successful, but I did see many familiar names in the old posters and commentaries.
Completing Your Visit
The MOA is not a large museum. You can tour it in about an hour, depending on how long you like to spend reading the wealth of information provided.
After your visit, consider taking one of the adorable False Creek ferries to Granville Island.
MOV Practical Information
Getting There
If you’re visiting Vancouver and staying downtown without a car, your best option is to either take the #2 bus or rent a bicycle (weather permitting). Here are all your options:
Take the Bus
The museum is about a five-minute walk from Cornwall Avenue where the #2 bus stops. Plan your route on Translink.
Take the False Creek Ferry
From various points around False Creek, catch a ferry that stops at the Vancouver Maritime Museum (#5). Then, walk south-east for about five minutes to the museum entrance. If you’re planning on more explorations, consider buying a day pass for the False Creek ferry in advance.
Ride a Bike
Use the Mobi Bike Share service to cycle to Vanier Park. The bike share is located at Chestnut Street and McNicoll Avenue, just west of the MOA.
Walk from Granville Island
Walk west along the seawall for about 15 minutes. Note that in the winter months, the seawall may be closed for maintenance. If that’s the case, retrace your steps and take the ferry.
Drive
From downtown Vancouver:
Cross the Burrard Street bridge heading south.
Veer right onto Cornwall Street as you come off the bridge.
Turn right onto Chestnut Street (this will be the first street).
Turn right onto Whyte Avenue.
Turn left into the parking lot.
From the south:
Take Burrard Street going north.
Turn left onto Cornwall Street just before the Burrard Street Bridge.
Turn right onto Whyte Avenue.
Turn left into the parking lot.
Museum Hours and Ticket Prices
The MOV is open 7 days a week from 10 am to 5 pm. Admission costs $17 for adults, $12 for seniors and students, and $10 for youth ages 6 to 17. Children under five and individuals who self-identify as Indigenous enter for free.
For more information, check the Museum’s FAQ page.
Taking the Ferry to Granville Island
Nineteen little ferries ply the waters of False Creek, stopping at the places shown on the map below. The stop for the Museum of Vancouver is Maritime Museum (Kitsilano Beach).
For a round-trip cost of $10 for adults and $7 for seniors/children, you can take the ferry to Granville Island where you’ll find an excellent indoor market, restaurants, food stalls, and lots of fabulous shops.
I pretty much always find something to buy whenever I visit. On my most recent trip to Granville Island, I couldn’t resist purchasing a gorgeous red leather purse inset with a First Nations design of a raven.
Rates vary depending upon the route and the number of zones covered. If you choose, you can sail all the way to Science World at the easternmost end of False Creek. Check the rates.
The ferries scoot back and forth across False Creek and are a lot of fun to ride:
Catch the ferry from the dock below the Vancouver Maritime Museum, which is about a five-minute walk to the west of the Vancouver Museum.
Buy a return ticket on the ferry (they take credit cards) if you’re parked at the museum, or get a one-way ticket and then take a bus back to your home or accommodation. You can also purchase a day pass and explore more of False Creek.
Granville Island
The Granville Island Public Market is the main attraction on Granville Island. Here, you’ll find a dizzying array of produce, seafood, bakery items, gourmet edibles, gift items, and flowers. Lunch options also abound from food stalls serving up everything from perogies to poke.
Pro Tip: Treat yourself to a cannelle at Le Bise Bakery. They are seriously to die for.
Take your food outside and enjoy it while gazing out at the boats plying the waters of False Creek with the skyline of Vancouver and the mountains beyond. Here’s one of my favorite views towards the Burrard Street Bridge:
Shopping on Granville Island
After lunch, wander around the many shops on the island or even take in a performance at the Vancouver Arts Club Theatre next door to the market.
If you want more than a quick bite at the market, consider stopping in at the Tap & Barrel – Bridges Restaurant or the Dockside Restaurant. Both offer scenic views of the mountains and water and plenty of seafood options.
Other Vancouver Museums
Here’s a quick roundup of three other Vancouver museums worth visiting.
Museum of Anthropology
If you really want to dig into Indigenous history, head out to the Museum of Anthropology (#6) at the University of British Columbia, arguably the best museum in Vancouver. You’ll discover a comprehensive collection not only of indigenous art from BC, but also from across Canada and around the world.
Science World
If you have children (or even if you don’t but just like science!), then Science World (#7) should definitely be on your itinerary. Tons of hands-on interactive exhibits, cool science shows, and world-class feature exhibitions will keep you entertained and informed.
Bill Reid Gallery of Northwest Coast Art
If you’ve visited the Museum of Anthropology, then you’ll have already seen some of Bill Reid’s magnificent work.
The Bill Reid Gallery of Northwest Coast Art (#8) in downtown Vancouver exhibits the Bill Reid SFU Art Collection in addition to contemporary Indigenous Northwest Coast Art.
Where to Stay in Vancouver
Visitors to Vancouver are spoiled for choice when it comes to accommodations. Be warned, however, that prices are steep, especially for downtown hotels with views of the magnificent North Shore mountains and the ocean. Here are two of my favorite hotels in Vancouver:
Granville Island Hotel
The Granville Island Hotel (#9) is the closest hotel to the Museum of Vancouver and the Granville Island Public Market. It’s a great choice that’s a bit off the beaten track from downtown Vancouver.
Sutton Place Hotel
Located on Burrard Street (and so an easy bus ride over the Burrard Street Bridge to the Museum of Vancouver) and around the corner from plenty of good shops and restaurants on Robson Street, the Sutton Place Hotel (#10) is one of the more reasonable options in Vancouver with comfy 4-star rooms.
Vancouver Tours
GetYourGuide offers a few tours that include Granville Island. Here’s a foodie tour of Granville Island Public Market.
And here are more options for touring Vancouver. Why not really splurge and take a seaplane flight over the city? On a clear day, the views are amazing.
The Museum of Vancouver is worth a visit if you enjoy cultural history (which I do!).
The location of the museum is also a major plus. After you’ve toured the museum, you’ll enjoy breezy views of the ocean and mountains and perhaps take a ride on one of the little False Creek ferries.
Have you visited the Museum of Vancouver? What were your favorite galleries? Share your recommendations and observations in the Comments below.
Here are more posts about museums I’ve visited and heartily recommend:
The Museum of Anthropology at the University of British Columbia (UBC) is the must-see museum in my hometown of Vancouver.
While I was on an Alaskan cruise a few years back, several visitors asked me what they should see during their one day in Vancouver. I always said the anthropology museum and always received a blank stare.
Regrettably, this world-class museum is not as well known as it deserves to be. Usually, when people talk about what tourists should see in Vancouver, they say the Capilano Suspension Bridge (crowded and way over-priced), the Vancouver Art Gallery (okay), and Stanley Park (a definite yes).
But a trip out to UBC to tour the Museum of Anthropology (MOA) is an absolute must. MOA houses an unparalleled collection of northwest coast Indigenous art and artifacts, along with exquisite exhibits of objects from cultures all over the world.
Overview
In this post, I share my recommendations for enjoying your visit to the UBC Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver, BC. I’ve also included practical information, such as hours, admission fees, and how to get there. Finally, check out what else you can see at the University of British Columbia and my suggested hotels in downtown Vancouver.
Where is the Museum of Anthropology (MOA)?
Designed by famed Canadian architect Arthur Erickson, the Museum of Anthropology (also known as MOA) is located on the campus of the University of British Columbia at the very tip of Point Grey, a peninsula that juts into the Strait of Georgia west of Vancouver’s downtown core. See #1 on the map below.
After being closed for a few years for seismic upgrading, MOA is again welcoming visitors.
Here’s the view of mountains and ocean that greets you from the rose garden on a hill above the museum.
The map below shows the location of the Museum of Anthropology (#1) along with other worthwhile sites at the University of British Columbia and recommended hotels in Vancouver.
After parking in the lot conveniently located just off NW Marine Drive and adjacent to the museum, you pass the MOA sign and a rock with a message in two languages reminding you that you are on the ancestral homeland of the Musqueam people.
I grew up close to this area and regrettably learned very little about the people who first lived here. In recent years, great strides are being made to redress the imbalances.
One such development is the increasing use of Indigenous names for landmarks that for 150 years were known by their “settler” names.
Entering the Museum of Anthropology
Enter the spacious lobby and buy your ticket. If you have a backpack or bag, you’ll need to store it in the lockers provided (they even give you a quarter to open a locker!).
And now, get ready for some serious awesomeness! Your first stop? Walk down a shallow ramp past exhibits of local First Nations art and into the Great Hall.
On your way, read the many informative plaques to learn about the displays. Their purpose is to educate visitors about why each object or artifact is significant to the culture and heritage of the First Nations people.
Here’s the description of the contemporary woven blanket displayed to your right as you walk down the ramp:
We dedicate this blanket to our mother Helen, our elders, and those who have gone before us. We look at this blanket as part of the tradition of education that was in place in our community for generations and is now being revived. Our ancestors speak through this weaving, through all of our weavings. In this way, they continue to share their knowledge with us.
The Great Hall
I’ve visited the Museum of Anthropology at UBC many times. But every time I walk into the Great Hall filled with one of the world’s most extensive collections of Indigenous art from the northwest coast, I feel an overwhelming sense of awe.
MOA does an excellent job of explaining the significance of each of the displays, with much of the information contributed by Indigenous artists who are carving totems and creating art today.
Stroll around this large space to get a feel for the awesomeness of the art and take time to read the explanatory plaques.
Here are some of the many totem poles that west coast First Nations people carved from cedar. Tilt your head back and marvel at the intricacy and beauty of the poles soaring to the rafters in this incredible space.
Sea-Lion House
It’s difficult to single out any one piece for more elaboration because every piece is accompanied by a fascinating story. The Sea-Lion House (Indigenous name Klix’Ken Gukwdzi) is particularly noteworthy.
According to the information provided, the First Nations community built the house in 1906 in defiance of the assimilation pressures imposed through the federal Indian Act.
This house was the last old-style dwelling erected in the village as a home for an extended family. It’s probably one of the last examples of traditional northwest coast architecture in the entire Pacific Northwest.
Colonialism and Indigenous People
The dramatic beauty of traditional northwest coast art on display at MOA is all the more remarkable considering that for decades, many of the cultural traditions of the First Nations people in British Columbia were banned.
Potlaches were outlawed, people were not permitted to wear their masks or dance or sing their traditional songs, and their languages were systematically wiped out.
In recent decades, the devastation wrought by these draconian laws is slowly being overcome. MOA’s curators and historians are doing an amazing job of putting together thoughtful and beautiful displays that celebrate the First Nations culture and do not shy away from painful truths about the colonial past.
European Ceramics Gallery
After marveling at the totems and other displays in the Great Hall, return to the entrance and head to the right to tour the Koerner Collection of European ceramics.
The feeling here is completely different but no less interesting. This extensive collection features ceramics displayed in a darkened room that every time I’ve visited has been virtually empty.
I enjoyed learning something about the history of ceramics and was fascinated by so many incredible examples of ceramic art, some dating back millennia.
These little guys are particularly adorable. They were made in the 18th century at the Holič factory in Hungary.
Multiversity Galleries
From the ceramics exhibition head back through the main hall and explore the museum’s multiversity galleries. MOA pioneered the use of open storage displays to exhibit their massive collection of objects from around the world.
These message greets you at the entrance to the Multiversity Galleries:
Enter here to meet creative expressions from around the globe. The galleries are laid out like a map of the world, joined by oceans and rivers. Pull open the drawers. Look up more information at the computer stations. Experience how connecting objects and people can bring the collection to life.
Here’s a portion of the South Pacific collection.
Northwest Coast First Nations Art and Objects
Don’t miss the collection of Pacific Northwest objects and art created by the area’s First Nations people. It is by far the largest collection in the galleries and features impressive displays of sculptures, masks, baskets, hats, textiles, and much more—some historical, some contemporary.
This massive Raven mask has been passed down for generations and, like all the exhibits in the First Nations collection, holds both artistic and spiritual significance along with precious knowledge for the communities that used it in ceremonies.
World Cultures
MOA features an impressive collection of thousands of ethnographic objects and artifacts from around the world. You’ll see magnificent objects from the Americas, Africa, Asia, and Oceania along with thoughtful and comprehensive descriptions.
Here are just a few examples of the breadth and astonishing variety of the collection the museum features.
Take your time to really look at these incredible objects. You could easily spend hours. And don’t forget to open the drawers! You never know what you’ll discover.
Works by Bill Reid
Acclaimed Haida artist Bill Reid is renowned for his sculptures and jewelry, several breathtaking examples of which are displayed in the museum.
The centerpiece is Bill Reid’s sculpture called The Raven and the First Men.
This stunning sculpture, made from a 4.5-ton cube of 106 laminated beams, took several years to complete. The museum acquired it in 1980.
Here is the legend of Raven and the First Humans as presented on MOA’s excellent website:
One day after the great flood Raven was walking along the beach at Rose spit in the Queen Charlotte Islands when he heard a sound emanating from a clamshell at his feet. He looked more closely and saw that the shell was full of small humans. He coaxed, cajoled and coerced them to come out and play in the wonderful new world. Some immediately scurried back into the shell, but eventually curiosity overcame caution, and they all clambered out. From these little dwellers came the original Haidas, the first humans.
Walk around the sculpture and be constantly enchanted by how it changes. This piece is a marvel.
Special Exhibitions
In addition to the three areas described in this post, MOA has areas devoted to special exhibitions. These vary throughout the year, so check the website to find out what’s on during your visit.
Tours of MOA
You can choose to take one of the free guided tours the museum offers with one of the new Cultural Interpreters. Learn about the collection from an Indigenous perspective and gain insight from Cultural Interpreters who have a personal connection to the belongings and treasures.
Tours last 45 to 60 minutes and are offered Tuesday to Thursday at 11 am, 1 pm and 3 pm, and Friday to Sunday at 1 pm and 3 pm.
Make sure to check the website to confirm the schedule.
Practical Information
The Museum of Anthropology is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 5 pm (Thursdays to 9 pm). It’s closed on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.
Museum admission currently costs $25 for adults, $22 for seniors (65+) and students, and $10 for youth. Children under 5, Indigenous people, UBC students, staff and faculty, and MOA members are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.
Museum Gift Shop
The museum’s small gift shop features with some pretty nice stuff, including plenty of examples of Indigenous art, jewelry and crafts, along with books and souvenirs.
Accessing the Museum of Anthropology from Downtown Vancouver
The Museum of Anthropology is located on the University of British Columbia campus, about 20 minutes from downtown Vancouver (#2 in the map at the beginning of this post). Here are some options for getting there from downtown Vancouver:
By Public Transit: Take the #4 UBC Bus from various downtown locations to the UBC Exchange or take the #99 B-Line bus to the UBC bus loop. From there, it’s about a ten-minute walk to MOA. Check the Translink website for routes, fares, and schedules.
From Vancouver International Airport (#3), take the Canada Line Skytrain to the Olympic Village station and then transfer to the #84 bus to UBC.
By Car: The museum is located at 6393 Northwest Marine Drive on the UBC campus. Ample parking is available at the museum, and parking fees are typically in line with campus parking rates.
Walking or Cycling: If you’re staying nearby, you can reach the museum on foot or by bicycle.
Other Attractions Near the Museum of Anthropology
If you have time to explore further, there are several other interesting attractions nearby.
Beaty Biodiversity Museum
Located a short walk from MOA, the Beaty Biodiversity Museum (#4) on the UBC campus is another excellent museum with exhibits showcasing the incredible biodiversity of our planet. Here are some pictures I took on a visit there.
You could spend hours browsing the extensive displays. With its wonderful collection of taxidermy animals, it’s a great place to take children.
UBC Botanical Garden
Another nearby gem is the UBC Botanical Garden (#5). Here, you can explore themed gardens, hiking trails, and a diverse collection of plant species from around the world. Established in 1916, the garden is Canada’s oldest university botanic garden.
I love going in the late spring and summer. Take your walking shoes; there’s a lot to see and it’s big!
Pacific Spirit Regional Park
For nature lovers, Pacific Spirit Regional Park (#6) offers extensive walking and hiking trails through lush forest, providing a peaceful retreat from the city. It’s a great spot for a post-museum stroll.
Nitobe Gardens
I adore Nitobe Gardens (#7) and pop in almost every time I visit the campus of the University of British Columbia. The gardens are a short walk from MOA so you can easily include it in your visit.
Considered one of the most authentic Japanese gardens outside of Japan, Nitobe Gardens is just gorgeous no matter what time of year you visit. But the best times are in spring when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom and again in the fall when the maple leaves are bright red.
Here are two photos taken in late spring.
Where to Stay in Vancouver
Vancouver is a major tourist destination for Canada-bound travelers, and as such has plenty of excellent hotels. Your best bet is to stay in a hotel downtown, preferably one with a view of the magnificent North Shore mountains and the ocean.
Here are my three favorite hotels in Vancouver:
Granville Island Hotel
Located on Granville Island about a ten-minute bus ride from downtown Vancouver, the Granville Island Hotel is a great choice if you’re looking something a little bit different.
You can stroll around the Granville Island Market and other shops, take in a performance at nearby Bard on the Beach or the Arts Club Theatre, and listen to the seagulls as you drift off to sleep.
Pan Pacific Vancouver
Pan Pacific Vancouver is one of Vancouver’s most iconic hotels with gorgeous views of the cruise ships and freighters in Burrard Inlet with the North Shore mountains beyond.
This hotel is upscale, expensive, and right in the center of the action. It’s a great choice if you’re staying overnight in Vancouver before taking an Alaskan cruise.
The Westin Bayshore
I love The Westin Bayshore and often stay here if I’m taking a “town” break from my home on nearby Bowen Island.
The Bayshore’s location right next to Stanley Park is a huge selling point. Rent a bike and ride around the park, then return to the hotel and enjoy a drink overlooking Vancouver’s stunning harbor.
Vancouver Tours
GetYourGuide offers a variety of tours of Vancouver and the surrounding areas. If you have a full day to spare, then I recommend you head up to Whistler.
On this tour, you’ll ride the Sea to Sky Gondola in Squamish, explore Whistler Village (don’t miss the Audain Art Museum), and visit stunning Shannon Falls on the world-famous Sea-to-Sky Highway.
After visiting MOA, you may feel inspired by the various Indigenous portrayals of the Orcas that swim in the local waters. Treat yourself to a whale watching experience.
The Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver is a cultural and artistic treasure well worth a few hours of your time.
The sweeping views of mountains and sea you’ll enjoy on the journey out to the University of British Columbia are reason enough to visit, but you’ll also learn so much about the Indigenous cultures of the Pacific Northwest and get a chance to marvel at the the objects on display from around the world.
The ingenuity of people never ceases to amaze me, which is why I love museums like this.
Have you visited the Museum of Anthropology? What were your favorite exhibits? Share your recommendations and observations in the Comments below.
Here are some more posts about museums I’ve visited and heartily recommend:
UPDATE: In August of 2024, Wildfires half-destroyed Jasper. The community is rebuilding and there are plans to resume tourism activities in the spring of 2025. In the meantime, please enjoy my account of my magical day at Maligne Lake near Jasper in the summer of 2023.
My heart goes out to the residents of Jasper and I wish them all the best as they rebuild their glorious community.
For my full day in Jasper after taking the two-day Rocky Mountaineer rail journey from Vancouver, I decide to take a all-day tour with Maligne Adventures to Maligne Lake that includes a stop at Maligne Canyon and a cruise on Maligne Lake.
We are blessed with a beyond-perfect day—a toasty 25C/78F degrees, clear blue skies, and spectacular views in every direction.
The Tour Begins
A Maligne Adventures bus picks us up promptly at 9:30 am and we meet our friendly driver and guide Chloe, who is from the UK. She is an enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide who makes sure our tour matches the perfection of the weather. Here’s a link to the tour I took.
After picking up about a dozen more travelers, Chloe tells us that her colleague leading another tour has just spotted a bear on a road that will require a slight detour.
She wheels the bus around and heads uphill towards Patricia Lake in search of the bear. Alas, we don’t find her (she was a mum with cubs), but no matter. Chloe informs us that bear sightings are less common in August. If we really want to see bears in Jasper, we need to come in the spring.
This is the only bear we see while in the Rockies–a stuffed one in the lobby of our hotel!
Learning About Local Wildlife
As she drives, Chloe provides a lively and informative commentary, mostly about the animals in the area. She reminds us that the animals are wild, including the huge, antlered elk often seen wandering the streets of downtown Jasper.
They are most definitely not tame. She tells us that one of her colleagues recently had to intervene to save a child’s life when he spied the child’s family trying to put the child onto the back of a fully grown male elk like he was some kind of Rocky Mountain pony ride.
Fortunately, he was able to stop them just in time to avoid what could have been a very nasty accident. Elk have extremely sharp hooves, not to mention deadly antlers.
I saw several elk on the trip, including these two–a male by the side of the road and a female in front of the Visitor Center in the middle of Jasper.
I learn later that Parks Canada will levy fines up to $20,000 on people who get out of their cars and approach wildlife.
Good call!
To their credit, Parks Canada does its best to try and keep bears away from humans. All garbage cans are bear-proof (and also pretty people-proof as I discovered when trying to open one to throw something away).
Bear-proof garbage can in Jasper
Bear Parts
After stopping to look at the elk by the side of the road, Chloe hands out two rubber bear claws made from the footprints of bears.
The mold on the left is the paw print of a grizzly bear (yikes!) and the one on the right is the paw print of a black bear.
Grizzly paw on the right; black bear paw on the left
Chloe tells us the rhyme to remember when it comes to surviving a bear attack:
Black fight back, brown get down, white good night.
In other words, if the bear is black, you can fight back by yelling, throwing rocks, and making yourself look big.
If the bear is brown (AKA a grizzly), lie on the ground face down (and presumably pray).
If you’re faced with a polar bear, you’re toast. Polar bears don’t mess around. Neither do grizzlies, but apparently a grizzly attack may just be survivable. A polar bear attack is not.
I’d just as soon not meet any bear, except maybe a baby panda.
If you get between a black bear and her cubs, you could still be in a for a nasty injury. I remember walking alone along a trail in Yellowstone National Park many years ago and feeling very, very nervous thanks to the many signs warning of bears (black & grizzly) in the area.
I did a lot of loud singing and, after about a mile, decided that whatever view awaited me at the end of the trail wasn’t worth dying for and so turned back.
Maligne Canyon
Our next stop is Maligne Canyon where we leave the bus to do the short circuit around a portion of the canyon. It is incredibly deep and sculpted–and has tragically been much damaged by the August 2024 fire.
Every time I lean over the edge to snap a picture, I worry that I might inadvertently let go of my phone. Chloe cheerfully informs us that if we drop our phones, we’re out of luck. She’ll not be going into the canyon to retrieve them!
Not that she could. The water surges through the narrow canyon, every year sculpting more of the rocky sides into abstract waves. In winter, the river freezes and travelers can take guided hikes along the icy bottom. That would be pretty cool!
Beautiful Maligne Canyon
In Search of Berries
Chloe tells us that a typical bear eats about ten pounds of berries every day when they are getting ready to hibernate. She looks for a berry to show us and manages to find only one rather shriveled one that the bear that had just gone through the area had left behind.
One of the people on the tour samples it and declares it very bitter.
We also learn about juniper berries and are each given one to sniff. I can’t place the odor until Chloe tells us that gin is made from juniper berries. They are certainly delightfully pungent.
Our guide teaching us about berries and bears
Disappearing Lake
Back on the bus, we continue on our way to Maligne Lake along an in-and-out road that skirts tranquil Medicine Lake, also called the Disappearing Lake because a unique underground drainage system causes the water level of the lake to vary from season to season, so that sometimes the entire lake disappears.
Over the years, attempts have been made to plug the system to keep the water in, but to no avail.
The scenery encircling us is truly remarkable—endless peaks, steep hillsides, and an area that had been devastated by wildfire. The charred remains of the forest are another stark reminder of the power of fire.
Tranquil Medicine Lake AKA Disappearing LakeBurned forest near Medicine Lake
Maligne Lake Cruise
We arrive at Maligne Lake where we have a few minutes to pick up a sandwich at the restaurant and then wait on the dock for our boat. We settle on to a warm bench and watch the lake.
The couple from New York that we ate breakfast with on the Rocky Mountaineer gets off one of the boats and waves as they pass.
The boats that ply Maligne Lake are quite small and low to the water, with bench seats fitting about 40 people (although I didn’t count!).
After a short delay, we board and meet our crew—Seb the boat driver, and Dec the guide, who keeps up an entertaining and informative commentary for most of the journey.
Boarding the boat for a cruise on Maligne Lake
The views as we cross Maligne Lake are spectacular in every direction—truly one of the most beautiful lakes I’ve ever been on. We set off at a sedate pace so that our wake doesn’t upset the many people sharing the lake in canoes, kayaks and even on paddle boards.
I don’t envy them. They are one slightly- too-high wake away from ending up in the lake and possible death from hypothermia if they don’t get out quickly enough.
It’s a glacial lake, which means it is very, very, very cold.
You can canoe across Maligne Lake to Spirit Island (our destination) in about four hours. That’s a lot of canoeing. I’m happy to enjoy the 30-minute boat ride.
Seb revs the engine once he’s out of range of the small craft and we set off for Spirit Island. I don’t know what to expect, having read nothing nor even looked at any pictures of the lake prior to our tour.
Julia tells me this is the tour to take and so here we are. I rather like that I have no idea what’s in store.
En Route to Spirit Island
Views are breathtaking in every direction on Maligne Lake
We round a bend in the lake to see tiny Spirit Island just ahead. It is actually an isthmus rather than an island, at least most of the time. If the lake water rises, the narrow strip of land connecting the island to the mainland is submerged.
Spirit Island is sacred land to the First Nations peoples who originally hunted and lived along these shores.
As a mark of respect, visitors are forbidden to step foot on the island. We will pull into shore close by for a fifteen-minute visit on the mainland overlooking the island and the view.
Dec tells us to keep our gaze fixed on Spirit Island and asks us to figure out why it is so special. I dutifully stare at the island—more of a small outcropping iced with narrow, Alpine trees than an actual island. I confess I can’t see what’s so special about it, although I dutifully shoot a short video.
The Hall of the Gods
Our guide tells us to shift our gaze from Spirit Island to behold the view from the island. OMG! Aptly named the Hall of the Gods, the mountains rising imperiously at the far end of the lake are beyond breathtaking.
Pictures can’t do justice to the view. This is a 3-D experience no flat photo can capture. Of course, that doesn’t stop every person on the boat from spending the next fifteen minutes on shore clicking away.
We certainly do! Here are just a few of the many pictures we snapped.
I feel like I’ve won the tourism lottery. This view will stay with me long after I leave the area. There is definitely something indefinably spiritual about it. No wonder the First Nations made the island overlooking it sacred.
On the way back across the lake, Dec shares more information about recent efforts by local First Nations people to reclaim their connection to the area.
After many decades of separation from land that the government controls as part of Jasper National Park, the descendants of the original inhabitants return every year to conduct ceremonies on Spirit Island and throughout the area.
Dec tells us that one of the hallmarks of their culture is to thank the natural forms we see around us every day–to say thank you to the mountains, the lake, the trees, and the bear, wolf, elk, and chipmunk.
Doing so celebrates our connection with nature, and reminds us that we are not separate from it.
Take the Cruise
The Maligne Lake cruise is a must-do during a trip to Jasper, but make sure you book it well in advance.
Several people on our tour had booked with Maligne Adventures after all seats on the boats (run by a different company) were already filled.
Instead of taking the cruise, they went on a 90-minute hike with Chloe to Moose Lake where they hoped to see moose. Unfortunately, they did not see moose, but the hike on the brilliantly sunny day was a hit.
On the drive back to Jasper, Chloe continues to share her knowledge about the flora and fauna of the area. We pass an eagle’s nest and learn that eagles mate for life and return to the same nest year after year, repairing and adding to it to accommodate a new brood.
An eagle’s nest can weigh over 1000 pounds.
An Afternoon in Jasper
Chloe drops us off in downtown Jasper and we wander around in the heat for a few hours, checking out the shops (not terribly exciting, to be honest), taking the obligatory photos with Jasper Bear statues, and grabbing dinner.
We also see a female elk calmly munching the grass in front of the Visitors Center. She is not remotely bothered by the tourists snapping photos while keeping a respectful distance. Thankfully, we don’t see anyone trying to put their child on her back.
CN Locomotive from back in the day
By the time we walk the twenty minutes back to the Forest Park Hotel, we have just enough energy left for a quick dip in the pool and a soak in the hot tub.
Later in the evening, we wander out to see the sunset blow up the sky above the mountains surrounding Jasper.
Sunset over the Forest Park Hotel in Jasper
Accommodations in Jasper
Our accommodation at the Forest Park Hotel in Jasper was stylish and comfortable. The spacious room included a balcony with a good view over the parking lot and the mountains.
Considering Jasper is ringed by mountains, it’s pretty hard not to get a view of mountains no matter where you stay.
The Forest Park Hotel is a good choice when staying in Jasper, particularly if you are driving. It is a fairly stiff twenty- minute walk from the main part of Jasper.
View from the balcony of our room at the Forest Park Hotel.
Here are other accommodation options in Jasper. Note that Jasper is an extremely popular destination in the Canadian Rockies, which means that hotels regularly sell out.
When Julia booked the Forest Park Hotel for us over six weeks before our trip, she got one of the last rooms. People who arrive in Jasper during the summer without booked accommodation are often obliged to drive many hours to find a place to stay.
Jasper is pretty remote! So definitely plan ahead! Oh – and be prepared for some serious sticker shock. Hotels in Jasper are not budget, even the budget ones!
Are you thinking of taking the famed Rocky Mountaineer train journey from Vancouver to Jasper in the Canadian Rockies? After being tragically suspended as a result of wildlifes in August 2024, the train is now back on track for 2025.
I highly recommend the journey–whether you’re a BC girl like me or you’re from halfway around the world.
Fantastic scenery, impeccable service, gourmet food–what’s not to love?
And from an Artsy Traveler perspective, there are plenty of opportunities to take beautiful pictures, learn about the history of British Columbia and the Rockies from the onboard attendants, and enjoy excellent food (an art form in itself!).
Why Rocky Mountaineer?
I’ve lived in British Columbia all my life and see mountains and trees out my window every day. Before embarking on the two-day Rocky Mountaineer adventure to Jasper, Alberta, I was worried that maybe I wouldn’t appreciate the scenery as much as, say, someone from Texas or Oklahoma or London or even Toronto?
For people from other parts of the world, the wild BC landscape is as much a novelty as the Yangtze River or African veldt would be for me.
As it turns out, this BC girl thoroughly enjoyed the journey from my backyard to the majestic Rocky Mountains.
This post provides a full account of the trip, from boarding in Vancouver, British Columbia, to disembarking in Jasper, Alberta.
Read on to find out if a trip on the Rocky Mountaineer is an experience that you too would enjoy.
Journey at a Glance
Get serenaded by a Scottish piper as you board the train at the start of your journey to Jasper
Enter the stunning Fraser Canyon and enjoy your first gourmet lunch
Overnight in Kamloops in BC’s hot, dry interior
Spot wildlife on the journey east to Jasper
Pass iconic Mount Robson and be surrounded by majestic mountains
Arrive in Jasper
Choosing Your Rocky Mountaineer Journey
Rocky Mountaineer offers three routes featuring the awe-inspiring landscapes of British Columbia and the Rocky Mountains in Alberta:
First Passage to the West: Vancouver to Banff and Lake Louise via Kamloops
Journey Through the Clouds: Vancouver to Jasper via Kamloops
Rainforest to Gold Rush: Vancouver to Jasper via Whistler and Quesnel
I chose the Journey Through the Clouds–a two-day journey from Vancouver to Jasper. Day One takes me to Kamloops in the Interior region of British Columbia, and Day Two takes me the rest of the way to Jasper in Alberta.
Day One
Arrival at the Rocky Mountaineer Station in Vancouver
At 6:30 am, I’m in the Uber with my daughter and travel companion Julia Simpson and being whisked from her apartment in North Vancouver to the Rocky Mountaineer station in Vancouver for the start of our two-day adventure.
If you’re staying at a downtown hotel, chances are you’ll be picked up by a shuttle bus and delivered to the station.
Attendants welcome you with cheery efficiency into the cavernous Rocky Mountaineer station flooded with early-morning light.
Very soon, you’ll discover that cheery efficiency characterizes every moment of the service to come. Everyone who works on the train is cheery; I presume it’s a job requirement.
But it feels genuine. I sense that the people who work with guests at Rocky Mountaineer truly relish their jobs.
I enjoy my first coffee of the day at the station and look around at my fellow travelers. While I spy a few families, the majority of the passengers are couples hailing from Australia, Britain and the United States, at least judging from most of the accents I hear.
I know from going on several Alaskan cruises over the years that many travelers combine a trip on the Rocky Mountaineer with a cruise to Alaska and a few days’ stay in Vancouver. Although biased, considering it’s my home town, I have to say that Vancouver is worth at least a two-night stay. Click below to find things to do!
A Piper Pipes Passengers Aboard the Rocky Mountaineer
A piper in full Scots regalia takes up his position in front of the doors leading to the train and begins to play. I do love the sound of the pipes!
The cheery train manager who will accompany us to Jasper welcomes us and then asks us all to shout All Aboard. Moments later, we follow the other passengers out to the platform.
The skirl of the pipes welcomes us on board the Rocky Mountaineer
We walk a few yards down the tracks to our GoldLeaf car—a double-decker with the seating area in a domed car on the top level and the dining car below.
Boarding the Rocky Mountaineer in Vancouver
Two Levels of Service on the Rocky Mountaineer
The Rocky Mountaineer train offers two levels of service—SilverLeaf and GoldLeaf. The scenery is the same, as is the level of cheeriness from the onboard hosts, but the seats in GoldLeaf are more comfortable and the cars consist of two levels.
The dome car on the top level affords stunning views of the passing countryside and the dining room on the bottom level hosts two seatings for a gourmet breakfast and lunch each day. An onboard chef prepares all the food to order.
In SilverLeaf, the food is pre-prepared and reheated on board, and then delivered to people’s seats. The quality of the food is similar to first-class plane fare, which means it’s pretty darned good.
Also, the SilverLeaf cars are one level and, while equipped with large windows, are not as airy and high up as the dome cars in GoldLeaf. Both are good choices, depending on your budget.
Onboard Seating in Rocky Mountaineer’s GoldLeaf Class
The sun streams through the fully-glassed-in dome car as we make our way to our assigned seats. There is ample leg room and all sorts of intriguing seat controls. I can choose three temperatures to warm my bottom, from mildly tingling to full-on torrid.
Considering the air conditioning is cranked a little too high, I’m grateful that at least my nether regions are toasty.
There are also controls for raising the leg rest, reclining the seat without affecting the people behind (a nice touch), and even a rather lovely lumbar support. On the seat back in front of me is a hook for hanging jackets and purses. Very thoughtful.
View from our seats in the dome car
The train starts so smoothly that it’s a few seconds before I realize we’re moving. For several minutes, we shunt backwards as the train gets into position on the correct track.
The train is very long, consisting of both the Vancouver-to-Jasper and Vancouver-to-Banff cars. In Kamloops, the Banff cars will be uncoupled to go on their merry way eastward, while we will begin the trek north and then east to Jasper.
First Breakfast
Our super-cheery onboard host Ryan welcomes us aboard and reads the safety information required by Transport Canada. He then invites half of the passengers in the car to head down to the dining car for breakfast.
We are in the first group; tomorrow, we will go second.
During the two eleven-hour travel days, you’ll be served both breakfast and lunch (which is more like a dinner) on board, along with plenty of snacks and unlimited drinks—wine, cocktails, liqueurs, soft drinks, the lot.
We are seated opposite a retired couple from New York. The woman used to run an art gallery and so we have plenty to chat about.
Breakfast is excellent. I opt for eggs scrambled with Boursin cheese and accompanied by bacon, potatoes, and greens with pomegranates. Delicious.
Heading Out of Vancouver
The train creeps along through rail yards that are as ugly here in my home town as they are anywhere in the world. What is it with trains and cities? The tracks are always flanked by the very worst urban blight, with liberal sprinklings of rust and filth.
Delightful.
We assure our breakfast companions that the scenery will improve.
And it does. By the time we return to our seats, the train is gliding alongside the Fraser River with the mountains beyond butted up against massive puffs of marshmallow clouds. The sun streaming through the clear glass dome above me warms the top of my head, the verdure stretching either side of the train is a rich emerald green, and all seems very right with the world.
It is remarkably pleasant, and I feel my shoulders soften and relax.
Views of the Fraser River after leaving Vancouver
The Morning Progresses
Every so often, our two hosts in the dome car—Ryan and Asia—take turns delivering informative commentary about the areas we’re passing through.
I’m thrilled to discover that I can easily type on my laptop on the generously-sized tray table. My fears about the movement of the train being too jerky to allow me to do some writing while on the journey (I love to write when I travel!) are unfounded.
I can type to my heart’s content from here to Jasper without missing a beat.
Writing on a laptop is as steady as on my desk at home
Over the next few hours, we penetrate deeper into the Coast mountains as we follow the Fraser River through the Fraser Valley and into the Fraser Canyon, one of the scenic highlights of the trip.
I’ve driven the Fraser Canyon a few times, but the only other time I took the train was in 1967 when I was returning from Montreal with my parents after visiting Expo 67. By some weird quirk of scheduling, the westbound train traversed all of British Columbia—the most scenic part of the country by a country mile—at night, arriving in Vancouver at dawn.
Into the Fraser Canyon
So this will be the first time I see the Fraser Canyon from a train. The hosts tell us that the town of Yale has an archeological dig with artifacts dating back to 9000 BC. Impressive.
About an hour after finishing breakfast, the bar opens and I order a Mimosa and sip it while gazing out at the mountains looming high either side of us.
The dome car is a huge plus of traveling in GoldLeaf. I feel like I’m floating through the landscape, looking up to see clouds and trees and mountaintops glide smoothly by.
Enjoying a Mimosa at my seat
Passing Hell’s Gate
The train passes by Hell’s Gate, and everyone crowds to the right side to peer down at the roiling waters. Ryan excitedly tells us about the history of the area and how Canadian explorer Simon Fraser called the area the Gates of Hell, hence the name.
The canyon narrows and the water pours through in unnavigable fury.
The Fraser River swirls through Hell’s Gate
Lunch is Served
Lunch is called for us, the first group, and down we troop. The appetizer is a long board of smoked ahi tuna and several plump prawns accompanied by pickled veggies, crisp crackers, and a delicate bruschetta.
For the entrée, we can choose from six options in addition to the special—chicken in Béarnaise sauce. Julia opts for that while I choose the cod loin, which is truly one of the best servings of cod loin I’ve ever tasted. A delicate sweet-citrus sauce dresses a generously thick hunk of cod perfectly cooked.
There’s a gentle rhythm to the pace of the train—not fast, not slow. It’s a steady pace that feels just right.
This is not a high-speed TGV or bullet train. This is a sedate, elegant train that gets us to where we’re going at a pace that encourages us to enjoy the ride.
Heading Into the Interior of British Columbia
We pass through Lytton–a small town tragically destroyed by fire in 2021. The charred trees bear witness to the devastation caused by wildfires every year in British Columbia.
We are lucky that wildfires haven’t affected this trip, but that is by no means always the case. In fact, 2023 is one of the worst years for wildfires in Canada, but not on the route we are currently traveling.
SIDEBAR: In 2024, half of Jasper was decimated by fire, halting the Rocky Mountaineer’s Jasper route for several months. If you’re planning a trip on the Rocky Mountaineer, a Spring or Fall journey may be your wisest option to avoid wildfires, although they can strike pretty much any time during the season.
When we are close enough to a town to get cell service, I read the heartbreaking headlines about the devastating wildfires in Maui.
Wildfires are increasing worldwide and they all too often win the battle against humans and human settlements. We see evidence of fires throughout the Rocky Mountaineer journey and when we spend the day in Jasper.
Near Lytton, BC, the landscape shows the devastation wrought by a wildfire in 2021
The countryside keeps changing the farther into the Interior we go—the monochrome browns and ochres and greys punctuated by burned trees like exclamation points. These searing landscape is cut through by the blue-green Thompson River that we will follow all the way to Kamloops.
View of the Thompson River from the trainThe landscape grows much drier as we enter the Interior
The mountains are rounder and more arid, the slashes of ochre and white more stark, the trees shrinking even more.
At 7 pm, we pull into Kamloops, our overnight stop. We’ve been on the train for 11 hours, which sounds like a long time but has flown by.
Arrival in Kamloops
The organization is impressive. Large buses pull up as we leave the train and everyone from our coach is loaded in and taken to the Coast Hotel. They’ve divided passengers into coaches based on where they are staying.
The Coast Hotel is situated high on the ridge above Kamloops in an area bristling with hotels, motels, and malls, and a plethora of chain restaurants, from McDonalds to Dairy Queen. To stretch our legs, we eschew the hotel restaurant and walk to a pub about five minutes’ away.
View over Kamloops from the balcony of our room at the Coast Hotel
Snagging the last table outside where the atmosphere is quieter, we enjoy an okay meal. Service is swift and my steak sandwich, while overdone, is edible. Half an hour later we’re back out on the street.
The area is regrettably unlovely—just urban sprawl overlooking brown hills and the valley below. We walk as far as the Dairy Queen for an ice cream cone that I don’t need, then stroll back to the hotel and contemplate the pool.
I always like to enjoy as many hotel amenities as I can during a stay, but I’m tired and the pool is busy. We opt instead for a quiet hour back in the room before lights-out.
Day 2 of the Rocky Mountaineer Adventure
I’m up bright and early and step out onto our balcony to the smell of smoke from a wildfire that we find out later is about ten miles away. We have been instructed to be downstairs no later than 7:30 am to board the bus for the fifteen-minute trundle to the train station. An attendant with a clipboard makes sure we’re all accounted for and off we go.
The bus driver provides a commentary about Kamloops, a town of over 100,000 inhabitants. I remember when it wasn’t much more than an indent on the highway.
Over the past several years, Kamloops has grown considerably, thanks to affordable housing, a university, the headquarters of Interior Health, a few mines and a pulp mill, combining to make it an attractive option for people looking to escape the impossibly bleak real estate prospects on the coast.
Julia has two friends who have relocated to Kamloops in the past few years.
Heading out of Kamloops
The sun is again shining and within a surprisingly short amount of time, we’re away from the dry Kamloops landscape and chugging through a greener, treed landscape skirting the North Thompson River. The views are spectacular, with mirror-bright reflections and puffy clouds. I love being up so high.
Mirror-smooth river and clear skies outside Kamloops
We are on the second shift for breakfast today and so make do with two cups of excellent coffee and a piece of coffee cake drizzled with lemon syrup. It’s a tough go, but we manage.
The biggest decision of the morning will be what to choose for breakfast. The menu is the same on both days, and I’m torn. The pancakes with lemon? Or Eggs Benedict? Or…? How to choose? I opt for eggs Benedict–cooked to perfection and accompanied by fresh fruit and lots more coffee.
After breakfast, it’s back up the narrow winding staircase that leads from the dining level up to the dome level to spend another relaxing few hours during which I write a bit of this post, listen to an audiobook, work on my Novel-In-Progress, and of course, have a nap.
There is something so restful about nodding off with the smooth movement of the train. In fact, I’ve never been on a train with such smooth movement.
Wildlife Spotting
Our onboard hosts are anxious for us to spot wildlife, but unfortunately, it’s slim pickings on this trip. We spot some bald eagles hanging out at the tops of trees alongside the river and see a bear swimming upstream. Unfortunately, he is too far away for a photo op.
The only other wildlife excitement are a few clusters of bighorn sheep on a hillside.
Views grow less frequent as the trees close in. Every so often, I go back down to the dining car level where a large outdoor viewing platform offers a different perspective. The August air is warm and breezy.
Viewing the passing landscape from the viewing platform on the lower level of the GoldLeaf car
We Approach the Rocky Mountains
The landscape fills with taller trees and increasingly larger mountains until suddenly we burst into a wide valley with a vista of the Rocky Mountains spread before us.
Where before the mountains were tree covered to their summits, the tops of these mountains are bare and rocky. And these are just the foothills. The real Rockies are yet to come.
We go down for lunch, and I opt for the Sumac Ridge Sauvignon blanc from BC’s Okanagan Valley that I sampled yesterday. Clean, crisp, citrusy—exactly what a Sauvignon blanc should be.
For our entrée, we both choose the special—steak with broccoli and potatoes. It’s excellent.
We are now traveling into the heart of the Rocky Mountains. Although I’ve seen them before, I’m always surprised at just how big and rocky they are—very different from the blue and green mountains I see out my window at home on the coast.
The Rockies thrust unapologetically into the cloud-studded sky—we’re here, we’re proud, we’re Rockies, and all you people in that train snaking through the valley down below have paid a small fortune to come see us.
Welcome.
Pyramid Falls
The train slows to a crawl to allow us to take pictures of Pyramid Falls, reputedly taller than Niagara Falls. Extraordinary.
Pyramid Falls is higher than Niagara Falls
We Pass Mount Robson
An hour later, we pass massive Mount Robson—the highest mountain in the Canadian Rockies. The mountain is located entirely within Mount Robson Provincial Park in British Columbia, and is part of the Rainbow Range.
The trees occasionally thin out enough to provide several photo ops. Apparently, clouds very often wreathe the summit, and this is the case when we pass. Even so, it’s an impressive wall of granite.
Mount Robson–the tallest mountain in the Canadian RockiesThe views as we come into Jasper are spectacular
Coming Into Jasper
As we near Jasper and the end of our Rocky Mountaineer adventure, the mountains are coming thick and fast, along with the iconic deep blue lakes, the first being Moose Lake.
The chefs come upstairs and dole out fresh-from-the-oven chocolate chip cookies. It’s a nice touch.
Warm chocolate chip cookie to welcome us to Jasper
And so, after another full day on the train, we pull into Jasper, Alberta, where the clock has jumped forward an hour to Mountain Time.
Ryan reads out the coach numbers corresponding to our hotels. We are in the Forest Park Hotel, which Julia assures me is very comfortable (she’s right). We will be here for two nights.
Music to End our Journey on the Rocky Mountaineer
The sound system delivers a purely Canadian playlist—Gordon Lightfoot, Our Lady Peace, Celine Dion, k. d. lang and more—a fitting tribute to round out the trip. The only exception is John Denver’s Rocky Mountain High, played just as we pull into Jasper train station.
A rendition of Leonard Cohen’s Hallelujah plays as we all rise to descend from the glorious glass-domed car we’ve called home for two days to the track level where we say farewell to our hosts.
Jasper Bear meets us at the station.
A safety-conscious Jasper Bear welcomes us to Jasper
The sky is starting to dim just enough to indicate that sunset is approaching. Patches of sun splash across the peaks in the distance while forested ridges loom darkly. Clouds are tinged bright white and grey and yellow, preparing to turn crimson and gold with the sunset.
We hop on the bus for the five-minute drive to the Forest Park Hotel on the very edge of town. Our room is spacious and well-appointed.
Sunset view in Jasper
We decide to walk into Jasper for dinner at a pizza place. The sky stays light for several hours, and on our way back to the hotel, we spy a few elk munching grass.
For things to do in Jasper, click the link below.
Should You Go?
Is the Rocky Mountaineer trip “worth” it? That’s a good question. It’s an experience unmatched in my life, even though I’ve lived most of it within sight of mountains.
I’ve driven through this landscape several times, but the driving experience can’t compare to the relaxation of sitting in the dome car tootling along at a sedate 40 to 50 miles an hour—fast enough to feel like progress is being made, but slow enough to allow for effective picture-taking.
The service is excellent, with the onboard hosts going above and beyond to deliver a memorable experience. They balance commentary with silence, and deliver drinks and snacks at exactly the right rate, neither too frequently nor too seldom.
The red carpet is rolled out in front of a GoldLeaf car on the Rocky Mountaineer
The journey is not for the budget-conscious. To be blunt, it’s expensive. Very expensive.
But if you’re looking for a unique way to spend two days crossing the vast reaches of British Columbia and you’re happy to shell out some big bucks, then I highly recommend the Rocky Mountaineer GoldLeaf experience.
Here’s a link to the tour we took, which I wholeheartedly recommend, although be warned that the 2024 wildfire took a toll on some of the landscapes that the tour traverses including beautiful Maligne Canyon.
Here are some options for staying in Vancouver either before or after your Rocky Mountaineer adventure.
Located on Granville Island about a ten-minute bus ride from downtown Vancouver, the Granville Island Hotel is a great choice if you’re looking something a little bit different. You can stroll around the Granville Island Market and other shops, take in a performance at nearby Bard on the Beach or the Arts Club Theatre, and listen to the seagulls as you drift off to sleep.
Pan Pacific Vancouver is one of Vancouver’s most iconic hotels with gorgeous views of the cruise ships and freighters in Burrard Inlet with the North Shore mountains beyond. This hotel is upscale, expensive, and right in the center of the action. It’s a great choice if you’re staying overnight in Vancouver before taking an Alaskan cruise.
The Westin Bayshore is one of my favorite Vancouver hotels. I often stay here if I’m taking a “town” break from my home on nearby Bowen Island. The hotel’s location right next to Stanley Park puts you close to nature. Go for a long stroll, or rent a bike and ride around the park (about 7 kilometers).
Conclusion
Have you taken a journey on the Rocky Mountaineer? Share your comments and suggestions in the Comments below.
If you love art and you’re visiting Ottawa, than you don’t want to miss the iconic National Gallery of Canada.
It is truly a national treasure, and one of the reasons why I was very pleased when my niece moved to Ottawa a few years ago.
Now I have an excuse to visit Ottawa more often, which means I can spend more time at the National Gallery!
To help you enjoy this wonderful gallery, I’ve put together a list of my 20 favorite pieces. These are just the tip of the iceberg, chosen from room after glorious room of masterpieces in the Canadian collection.
When you go, you’ll find many more pieces to marvel at.
Overview
The National Gallery of Canada is an excellent museum both inside and out.
Outside, the striking glass structure built in 1988 echoes the shape of the library on Parliament Hill that it overlooks.
Inside is a comprehensive collection of the best of the best of Canadian painting, particularly the Group of Seven and some notable moderns.
I visited the National Gallery of Canada with my daughter on a brilliant blue-sky day in early February after checking out Winterlude, eating my very first sugar shack maple-syrup lollilop (so delicious), and strolling past Parliament Hill (rated the #1 attraction in Ottawa on Trip Advisor!)
On Parliament Hill in Ottawa on a crystal-cold February day
Location of the National Gallery of Canada
The National Gallery is a short walk from Parliament Hill along the Rideau Canal and quite close to the Byward Market.
The map below shows the location of the gallery along with a few landmarks such as the Parliament Buildings, the Rideau Centre, and the Ottawa Art Gallery (also worth a visit).
On your way into the gallery, you can’t help noticing the massive sculpture by Louise Bourgeois. Called Maman and created in 1999, the giant egg-carrying arachnid cast in bronze was inspired by Bourgeois’s own mom.
If you don’t much like spiders, you might want to walk quickly past Maman, but if you’re not too bothered, linger a while and take some striking pictures!
Carol & Maman
Touring the Canadian Collection
On my most recent visit to the National Gallery of Canada, I entered the main Canadian collection from the moderns and traversed backwards to the colonial and pre-colonial eras.
Usually, I start old and end new, but I found going backwards was a refreshing way to get a different perspective on the collection.
In addition to the large collection of Canadian art on the main floor, the National Gallery also includes a comprehensive collection of European and American art, and a large area devoted to contemporary work (most of which was kind of missable, to be honest).
Because I’m limiting this post to just 20 of my faves, I’m focusing only on the Canadian collection.
Ready? Let’s start with the moderns.
Modern Canadian Art at the National Gallery
Modern art–as opposed to contemporary art–includes works from the mid 20th century until about the 1970s.
I’ve limited myself to five faves, presented in the order in which I came across them and listed by artist name rather than the name of the work.
Norval Morrisseau (called Copper Thunderhead)
Norval Morrisseau is credited with creating a completely new art movement inspired by non-European aesthetic conventions and iconography.
His work is a visual translation of an Anishnaabe worldview that is based on oral tradition, individual experience, and heritage.
I don’t think anyone could look at a painting by Morrisseau and not be enchanted. The vibrant colors and intriguing shapes, along with his original depictions of animals and people, are irresistible.
His work is immediately recognizable and so compelling. This painting was the first I gravitated to when I entered the room.
Norval Morrisseau (called Copper Thunderhead), Artist and Shaman between Two Worlds (1980)
Alex Colville
Alex Colville’s hyper-realistic paintings depict everyday life in the Maritimes. This piece is one of my favorites (and probably Colville’s most famous) because it beautifully captures the feel of a sunny, breezy day in summer.
Also, what is the woman looking at? Prince Edward Island? Another boat? Us? It’s enigmatic and yet relatable.
The painting depicts Colville in the background and his wife Rhoda in the foreground holding the binoculars.
Alex Colville, To Prince Edward Island (1965)
Art McKay
I was unfamiliar with Art McKay, although my husband, painter Gregg Simpson, has since told me that he met him back in the 1970s.
I included his work simply because I really liked it. It reminds me of a Pollock but with more fluid movement. Apparently, McKay was inspired to pursue abstraction after meeting the American abstract painter Barnett Newman in 1959.
In this painting, the limited palette (black, white, blue) produces a compellingly energetic work that drew me in. I wanted to sit with it for a while, to feel the paint swirling around me like clouds seen from outer space.
Art McKay, Flat Blue, Flat White, Stove Enamel (1960)
Jean Paul Riopelle
The National Gallery of Canada includes several paintings by Jean Paul Riopelle in its collection, which is good news for me because I’m a big fan of his work.
This massive triptych is so fabulously joyous. Riopelle used a palette knife to apply paint directly to the surface using free and “automatic” gestures. He is known as the most ambitious artist in the Automatistes movement.
The title of the piece, “Pavane”, refers to the 16th century Spanish dance that is characterized by a stately and processional rhythm. And this painting fairly pulsates with rhythm.
I couldn’t do the piece justice with a single photograph and so took this video.
Jean Paul Riopelle, Pavane (1954)
Kathleen Munn
I had never heard of Kathleen Munn (1887-1974) whom I discovered was one of the leading modernist painters in Toronto in the 1920s.
I’m happy to see that the National Gallery is including more women in its collection. This appealing piece reminds me of a Franz Marc with its colorful shapes and abstracted landscape elements.
Kathleen Munn, Untitled (1926-28)
Group of Seven & Friends at the National Gallery
The Group of Seven are justifiably famous for creating paintings that showed the Canadian landscape to the world back in the early 20th century.
Also known as the Algonquin School, the Group of Seven includes Frank Carmichael, Lawren Harris, A. Y. Jackson, Frank Johnston, Arthur Lismer, J. E. H. MacDonald, and Fred Varley. Other artists associated with the group are A. J. Casson, Tom Thomson, and Emily Carr.
The National Gallery devotes several rooms to showcasing the work of these artists. I’ve selected my favorites in no particular order, except that I start with my fave, Lawren Harris.
Lawren Harris
Lawren Harris is hands-down my most beloved Group of Seven artist. I particularly appreciate his later work when he moved away from landscape and toward a spiritually-inspired form of abstraction.
The painting below is an example of his later work when he was focusing on producing abstract art using geometric compositions with layered planes.
Lawren Harris, Abstraction (1939)
This piece is one of Harris’s most famous. It depicts the north shore of Lake Superior and was painted in 1926 when Harris traveled to the region with fellow Group of Seven artist A. Y. Jackson.
Lawren Harris, North Shore, Lake Superior (1926)
Call me a tourist (an artsy tourist), but I couldn’t resist taking a selfie in front of this most iconic of paintings.
Geeking out at the National Gallery of Canada
J. E. H. MacDonald
Apparently, this painting by J. E. H. MacDonald was panned by the critics when it was first exhibited in the 1920s. One critic even compared the painting to a huge tomato salad. That seems a bit harsh!
I was immediately drawn to this painting because of its exuberant depiction of fecundity. Some of the plants are decaying, some are blooming, and all are jumbled together in a glorious mess of in-your-face nature. It’s awesome!
J. E. H. MacDonald, The Tangled Garden (1916)
A. Y. Jackson
How much more Canadian can this get–red maple leaves in front of a rushing river. The painting is even called “The Red Maple” and is based on a sketch from nature produced along the Oxtongue River in Algonquin Park.
A. Y. Jackson, The Red Maple (1914)
Arthur Lismer
Is this iconically Ontario or what? To me, this depiction of Georgian Bay in a storm really captures the swirling clouds and choppy waves of the Great Lakes region. It really couldn’t be anywhere else in Canada!
Arthur Lismer, A September Gale, Georgian Bay (1921)
F. H. Varley
Same with this piece, which also depicts a storm on Georgian Bay. The Group of Seven artists are credited with being quintessentially Canadian, but really, they are at heart Ontarians.
As someone born and bred in British Columbia, I don’t particularly resonate with the Ontario landscape. However, I can appreciate it and also how its depiction by the Group of Seven artists showcased a corner of Canada’s vast landscape to the world.
F. H. Varley, Stormy Weather, Georgian Bay (1921)
Franklin Carmichael
Carmichael is my second favorite Group of Seven artist after Lawren Harris; I even have a print of one of his paintings in my office.
See how he smashes together landscape elements to produce a visual earthquake for the viewer. You can feel the seismic energy of the rain, the snow, and the wind in his paintings.
Franklin Carmichael, Snow Clouds (1938)
Tom Thomson
Although he was not formally considered a member of the Group of Seven, the paintings by Tom Thomson are pretty much synonymous with most people’s idea of Group of Seven landscapes.
The National Gallery includes a large display of several dozen of Thomson’s small canvases. This video gives a good idea of the variety and quality of these exquisite gems.
Small paintings by Tom Thomson
Emily Carr
The other most famous artist who was not part of the Group of Seven, but definitely associated with them, is BC’s own Emily Carr. The National Gallery includes several of her pieces.
Most depict the brooding West Coast rainforest–a landscape I definitely resonate with since it’s the one I see outside my window as I write this!
A massive cedar tree is directly in my line of sight. It doesn’t take much imagination to see it as Carr did–a swirling, living mass of green energy thrusting skyward. Here are two of her pieces that I particularly liked.
The National Gallery does a good job of including several fabulous pieces of indigenous art in the collection of paintings by artists of mostly European descent.
Here are two pieces I admired.
Marven G. Tallio, Raven Sun Transformation Mask (1966)John Marston (QAP’U’LUQ), Spirit of the Forest – Mother Nature (2013)
Other Notable Pieces
While the stars of the show at the National Gallery are the paintings by the Group of Seven and the pieces of indigenous art, I saw some new-to-me pieces worth mentioning.
Here is yet another depiction of Lake Superior (there are many of them in the National Gallery!), which I liked because of the way in which the houses are all jumbled together in front of a massive landscape and because it’s painted by a woman artist I’d never heard of, Yvonne McKague Housser.
She painted this piece just a few years after Lawren Harris made the Lake Superior region famous.
Yvonne McKague Housser, Rossport, Lake Superior (1929)
This piece from the 19th century of loggers clear-cutting the area where I now live resonated because of the interesting way in which the artist depicted the figures next to the logs.
The painting catches one moment during the workday. No one is posing; no one cares about posing. They are just getting on with a brutal day’s labor.
George A. Reid, Logging (1888)
Yes, I’m a sucker for a good still life, and I particularly liked this piece by Quebec artist Joseph Légaré. Apparently, it’s the first still life executed in Canada, although I’m not sure how anyone can be 100% sure of that!
Anyway, it’s a nice painting.
Joseph Légaré, Still-life with Grapes (1826)
And Finally – A Shout-Out to the Gift Shop
I love a good museum gift shop and the one at the National Gallery of Canada is right up there in my top ten all-time favorite museum gift shops.
There’s a wonderful selection of quality gift items, many with indigenous designs and the assurance that the money actually goes to the artists. Hopefully, that is true because in my last two trips to the National Gallery (February 2023 and December 2021), I purchased several indigenously-designed items there.
Definitely check it out after you’ve toured the National Gallery. I dare you to leave without buying something!
Practical Information
The National Gallery of Canada is located at 380 Sussex Drive in Ottawa (see #1 on the map at the beginning of this post). It is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 5 pm (8 pm on Thursday), and closed on Monday. Adults cost $20; seniors $18; and 24 and under & students $10. Children under 11 are free.
Tours & Tickets in Ottawa
Here are some guided bus tours of Ottawa and options for tickets to some of Ottawa’s major museums with Tiqets.com to check out:
Looking for a good walking tour? I recommend GuruWalks. Here are the walks available in Ottawa:
Where to Stay in Ottawa
You’ll find lots of business-style hotels in downtown Ottawa in addition to the iconic Chateau Laurier. Here are a few suggestions for upscale choices within walking distance of the National Gallery of Canada the the Parliament Buildings.
Le Germain Hotel Ottawa: Close to Byward Market and a 2-minute walk from the Rideau Centre. Rooms are stylish and comfortable.
Lord Elgin Hotel: This is an oldie (I first stayed there in 1967 when I was very young!) and it’s certainly venerable and historic. A good choice if you want to be in the center of downtown Ottawa just steps from the Parliament Buildings.
Fairmount Chateau Laurier: If you’re feeling really flush and want to stay in one of Canada’s most iconic hotels, then treat yourself to the Chateau Laurier. You only live once!
Conclusion
The National Gallery of Canada’s permanent collection is stunning and extremely safe–some would say conservative. The focus is on the crowd-pleasing paintings by the Group of Seven (and hey, I was pleased), but there are very few paintings by more recent Canadian artists.
Still, it’s a great collection and worth a few hours of your time when visiting Ottawa, a city with its fair share of excellent museums.
Have you visited the National Gallery of Canada? What are some of your favorites? Share in the comments below.
Looking for a unique experience on Prince Edward Island?
If so, then the FireWorks Feast at the Inn at Bay Fortune is an Experience with a capital E.
Treat yourself to a stay at the five-star Inn at Bay Fortune and an evening enjoying the FireWorks Feast. Billed as an “immersive farm-to-table dining experience”, the FireWorks Feast is the brainchild of Chef Michael Smith.
As a long-time fan of cooking shows, I was familiar with Chef Michael, one of Canada’s best-known chefs. He and his wife purchased the Inn at Bay Fortune a few years ago and have transformed it into a truly memorable destination.
In this post, I describe my experience staying at the Inn at Bay Fortune and enjoying the FireWorks Feast. If you are traveling to Prince Edward Island during the summer months, get a reservation. Yes, it’s pricey, but I guarantee you won’t regret it!
Is Food Art?
When food is presented like it is at the Inn at Bay Fortune’s FireWorks Feast, I’d say yes. Very much so.
The Inn at Bay Fortune in Prince Edward Island, Canada
Farm Tour at the FireWorks Feast
We arrive at the Inn at 4 pm just in time to grab a drink and head out across the massive lawn overlooking Bay Fortune on the southeast coast of Prince Edward Island to join our fellow FireWorks Feasters for the first leg of the FireWorks Feast Experience.
My daughter, Julia, holds her drink and mine in preparation for the Farm Tour portion of the FireWorks Feast
The Inn’s resident farmer, Kevin Petrie, stands in the middle of a circle of vibrantly painted Muskoka chairs (also known by my U.S. readers as Adirondack chairs) and holds forth about the Inn’s remarkable herb garden.
Raised beds containing herbs on the front lawn of the Inn at Bay Fortune on Prince Edward Island, Canada
Kevin’s talk is the start of an hour-long farm tour that will take us from the front lawn to the extensive farm behind the Inn that features greenhouses, nursery beds, a mushroom patch, apple orchards, and even a Pots & Pans Trail.
Pots and pans hanging on a tree along the Pots & Pans Trail at the Inn at Bay Fortune on Prince Edward Island
Kevin is a font of information about growing organic food. I learn that the cilantro plant yields at least eight edible parts, including roots, leaves, and flowers that each have a different taste and texture. The seeds are called coriander – a tidbit of knowledge I’d vaguely known and have now confirmed.
I also sample a chunk of the crispest, sweetest cucumber I’ve ever tasted—almost crisp and sweet enough to turn me from a cucumber tolerator to a cucumber enthusiast.
Farmer Petrie stands in front of one of several greenhouses on the farm at the Inn at Bay Fortune
I learn that the soil on the farm is like a chocolate layer cake – aerated and full of goodness, spongy, dark, delicious – and a wellspring of nutrition for the plants.
We tour an experimental area called the nursery to view dozens of varieties of tomatoes, some of which are almost black The purpose of the nursery is to discover which tomato varieties work best in the climate and the terroir.
Ah, the terroir – the earth from which the plants spring. Terroir garners tremendous respect, veneration even. The terroir creates the food we put into our bodies to nourish ourselves.
Oyster Hour at the FireWorks Feast
We walk from the farm back toward the Inn to find a tall man with grizzled grey hair tied in a tight ponytail. It’s Chef Michael himself standing with shovel in hand in front of a large, smoky fire on which oysters will soon be roasting.
Chef Michael Smith greets guests in front of roasting oysters at the Inn at Bay Fortune
An engaging speaker, Chef Michael exudes an infectious enthusiasm and passion for food, for sustainability, and for terroir. He tells us that the oysters we’re about to slurp were harvested in Bay Fortune that very afternoon. No more than a few hours separate their plucking from the sea to Chef Michael’s shucking knife.
We’ve reached the Oyster Hour portion of the evening that is devoted to sampling a variety of appetizers, including as many oysters as we can slurp. First up are oysters dotted with butter and nestled into the coals of the open fire. I select one and suck it back—tasting the sea, of course, but also a warm, smoky, buttery flavor.
Oysters quickly roasted over an open fire are ready for savoring
Raw oysters are offered next, shucked right in front of us by Chef Michael and then dotted with dollops of fresh-chopped tomatoes from the farm. My daughter Julia is not a seafood lover (where did I go wrong?), but she gamely agrees to try her first raw oyster. Chef Michael instructs her—slurp, chew, swallow.
Julia holds the oyster to her lips, closes her eyes and tilts her head back.
And then, in full view of Chef Michael Smith, she spits the oyster back into the shell. Oops! But he is good-humored about it and commends her for at least trying.
Julia has better luck with some of the other appetizers. She enjoys slices of smoked salmon, delicate pink and so fresh as to be practically swimming, served atop a crisp, salty cracker, along lobster mushrooms on a taco with Sriracha – heat exploding across chewy smoothness.
Julia has better luck with the salmon appetizer
Pre-Feast Toast
After an hour of sampling appetizers, we gather in front of the flagpole on the lawn overlooking Bay Fortune. Chef Michael directs our attention to the large Canadian flag snapping in the wind at half-mast. He alludes to why, but doesn’t explain, evidently trusting that the gathered company already knows. I wonder if they do and hope so. For readers who may not know, most Canadians have flown the flag at half-mast throughout the summer of 2021 in memory of the thousands of indigenous children across Canada who never returned from residential schools.
Chef Michael then proposes a toast with a sparkling, bubbling Prince Edward Island “champagne” (Benjamin Bridge Bubbles). The assembled guests (about 75 people) raise their glasses and then troop gratefully into the airy dining room to enjoy six more courses of the FireWorks Feast. Julia had thought we’d eat to the accompaniment of real fireworks, but no. FireWorks refers, literally, to fire and works, meaning that most of the food we consume has been cooked over fires fed with local wood.
The FireWorks Feast Begins
We are seated at the window – a perfect spot from which we survey the wide expanse of lawn leading to the sparkling waters of Bay Fortune. As the evening progresses, golden light floods across the grass, turning it into a shimmering expanse of brilliant, molten green. Slowly, the sky turns soft pink, then mauve, then indigo as night descends over peaceful Prince Edward Island. A bonfire flares, its bright orange flames a promise of life in the darkness.
Farm, Fires, & Feast booklet at our place setting
Special FireWorks Feast Bread
First up is the bread tree – a metal “tree” in which nestles a small loaf of warm, fresh-baked sourdough bread described as made from 100-year-old naturally fermented heritage flour and baked in a wood oven. It is brown, dense, and sinfully delicious.
A trio of spreads invites extensive investigation. My favorite is the maple brown butter – sweet and creamy, but also light—frothy even. Pork pâté made from a happy pig (that’s what the server said!) is subtly flavored; again, the texture is silky smooth. Finally, I savor a lighter-than-air cheese pâté, the flavors so delicate as to be almost undistinguished.
Our bread tree with a trio of spreads
Although I’m already almost full from the oysters and other scrumptious appies from the Oyster Hour, I nevertheless chow down on two hunks of fresh bread and far too many slatherings of spreads. I know this is a mistake – the bread is only course two of seven. Seven! Already, I need a rest.
A cool white wine from Nova Scotia provides the perfect accompaniment – not too strong, a blend that truly complements the food rather than overpowers it. There is the option to have four pours of four different wines for $75. I am tempted, but decide that even my indulgence quotient has limits.
Soup Swimming with Seafood
Course three is seafood chowder for me and a chicken broth with veggies for Julia. My chowder overflows with plump and sweet scallops and clams, bright orange mussels, dense clumps of crabmeat and lobster, along with haddock, salt cod, beach wort (whatever that is), dulse (seaweed?) and potatoes, all swimming in a delicate creamy broth. The flavors do not overpower. They blend and dance across the palate, inviting slow savoring.
This is not the place to gobble your food.
Delectable seafood chowder
Both of us eat only half our soups, prompting the lovely young server to ask if we liked it. I hastily reassure her that the chowder is spectacular but that I need to leave room. I’d taken Chef Michael’s exhortation to eat as many oysters as we wanted far too seriously and, not wanting to let down the side for western Canada, had eaten three or four too many.
The Best Salad in the World at the FireWorks Feast
The next course is my favorite – all vegetables, and OMG what vegetables! I watch Chef Michael at the open-plan chef station dump fresh greens plucked mere hours earlier from the farm into a massive bowl. Surrounded by an impressive number of earnest-looking and mostly young chefs-in-training, Chef Michael tosses the greens with his hands. The hefty price tag for this foodie experience is feeling increasingly reasonable considering the value we’re getting.
The chefs portion the salad of herbs, shoots, stalks, stems, leaves, buds, fruits, and a plethora of brilliantly colored edible flowers into a bowl for every two people. We also receive an individual plate smeared with root vegetable purées – ash-baked beets, smoked parsnips, and roasted carrots, along with lentil sprouts and something called seedy soil that turns out to be a pleasantly crunchy, sweet and salty garnish I could have eaten all night.
Trio of vegetable purées with lentil sprouts and seedy soil
We are instructed to place a few tongfuls of the greens (studded with popcorn – seriously!) over the plate of pureed vegetables to experience the different textures and tastes.
The parsnip cream is to die for, and I don’t even like parsnips. Even the beets go down a treat – the rich red color alone worth the price of admission. I want to eat every scrap of the greens, but my tummy is starting to groan. How am I going to manage the main course?
But back to the greens – crisp, tart, sweet, earthy, fresh – I feel like I’m eating a garden, which I suppose I am. My favorites are the flowers – startling orange nasturtiums and soft violet pansies that are peppery and sweet and crunchy. I’ve only just discovered the glories of eating flowers and am now a firm convert. Every so often, a leaf from one of the farm’s 26 herb beds—mint, basil, and many more tastes I don’t recognize—glides across my palate like an Olympic speed skater.
Green salad studded with colorful flowers and popcorn at the FireWorks Feast
I reluctantly leave a fair amount of greens in the salad bowl, having practically licked the plate clean of its purée smears, and await the main course. Chef Michael and his crew are hard at work plating the two choices—brisket or halibut. I made the difficult choice when we arrived earlier but was torn. I adore halibut and almost never get it, but brisket! And I figure brisket smoked and prepared by a world-class chef had to be, well, world-class.
Chef Michael plates the main course
Main Course – FireWorks Beautiful Brisket
The main course arrives, the slabs of brisket and flatiron steak artfully (well, duh) arranged over an intriguing assortment of roasted root vegetables. But alas, my stomach rebels. I can manage only a few nibbles of wonderfully flavored kale and some brisket before having to give up. Would it be completely low-brow to ask for a doggy bag in a place like this? I envision enjoying a slab of the brisket (melt-in-your-mouth, for sure) later that evening. It would taste sooooo good then, whereas now – nope. I am far too full to appreciate it.
The main course is brisket with root vegetables
But as my dad used to say, they’ll not see you again, so I asked our server if I could have the brisket to go and she cheerfully offers to bring me a box. Phew! Later that evening and again for breakfast, I feast on the most tender, flaky, flavorful brisket I’ve ever tasted. Just enough of the salty au jus clings to the meat to give it flavor without overwhelming it.
Always Room for Dessert
Can we manage dessert? Well, of course. Dessert is a different stomach, right? Also, the gap between main course and dessert is, to my relief, long enough to give my system time to re-calibrate.
Dessert is a haskap berry tarragon meringue/sponge cake topped with blueberry cream and a scoop of lemon verbena ice cream. I eat every morsel.
Dessert at the FireWorks Feast
And still we are not done! Over at the chef station, one of the young chefs is affixing rectangles of blueberry marshmallow to the ends of long sticks. Outside the window, the crackling flames of the campfire beckon. We pick up our marshmallow sticks and proceed to the campfire. Melty, blueberry, sticky. Oh yeah!
But unfortunately, swarms of unwelcome guests also show up to enjoy campfire time. We learn the hard way that the mosquitoes on Prince Edward Island are tiny but vicious. Funny – I never remember reading about mosquitoes feasting on Anne of Green Gables.
The Morning After
Before checking out the next morning, I take a copy of my novel Love Among the Recipesto Reception and ask that it be given to Chef Michael as a thank-you for a wondrous experience. The woman at the desk tells me I can give it to him myself since he’s just around the corner in the dining room working on the evening menu.
Feeling a trifle presumptuous, I nevertheless present Chef Michael with my novel. He graciously accepts, telling me he thinks it looks like something he and his wife would enjoy. I’m honored, and float away from the Inn feeling that our Prince Edward Island splurge is one for the memory books.
Love Among the Recipes finds a new home at The Inn at Bay Fortune
If you’re traveling to Prince Edward Island during the summer months, consider spending the night at the Inn at Bay Fortune and an evening enjoying the FireWorks Feast. You’ll come away with a renewed appreciation for fresh and nutritious food grown with love.
