For a truly delightful—and delightfully colorful—museum experience far from the crowds, check out the Ôkhra Écomusée de l’Ocre just outside the village of Roussillon in the gorgeous Luberon region of Provence.
Here, you’ll learn how ochre was mined and processed, stroll through a magical slice of Provençal countryside, and maybe even leave with your own stash of ochre pastels or paints from the well-stocked shop.
What is Ochre?
Ochre is nature’s paintbox: a clay earth pigment composed primarily of iron oxide, tinged with sand and clay. Its hues shimmer from soft golden yellows to fiery oranges and deep earthy reds. For centuries, artists and artisans have ground ochre into powders and pastes to color walls, ceramics, textiles, and, of course, paintings.
Look around Roussillon and you’ll see ochre’s fingerprints everywhere—the warm red, amber, and saffron facades of the village glow in the Provençal sun thanks to this mineral pigment.
The Origins of Ôkhra
Ôkhra grew from the ruins of the Mathieu factory, which shut down in 1963. In its place, the Conservatoire des Ocres was born, with a mission to preserve the region’s unique heritage and celebrate the alchemy of color.
Step inside and you can watch demonstrations, try your hand with ochre paints and pastels in the workshops, or even take a course in pigment techniques.
A Visit to Ôkhra
Located at 570 route d’Apt, Ôkhra is only 2 km from the village of Roussillon. The museum is open 7 days a week from April to October. Check the website for other opening times and for available workshops, tours, and demonstrations.
In the museum, you’ll wander past old machinery once used to crush, wash, and sift ochre. There’s something wonderfully tactile about seeing the story of color embedded in these hulking gears and troughs.
Afterward, head outside for a slow stroll through the grounds—part Provençal forest, part open-air gallery. When I last visited, a marvelous exhibition of photographs by local artists was scattered through the landscape, and the quality was astonishing.
Playing with Ochre
Back inside, the real fun begins. Long tables invite you to pick up brushes and pastels and play with color to your heart’s content.
An attendant is on duty, ready to share tips on technique or explain how ochre is transformed from humble earth to luminous pigment.
Shopping for Ochre
Ôkhra’s shop is irresistible—shelves stacked with every shade of ochre, as well as books (including a few in English) and artist-quality supplies. My husband, Gregg, a painter, couldn’t resist stocking up on jars of ochre pigment to take home.
Staying in the Roussillon Area
Roussillon is officially listed as one of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France—and for good reason. The ochre-hued houses climb the hill in a patchwork of reds and yellows, framed by narrow lanes and shaded terraces. Yes, it can get crowded, but if you stay overnight you’ll enjoy the quieter early mornings and the golden hour after the tour buses depart.
Hotels I Recommend:
Les Sables d’Ocre has been my go-to for decades. A leafy oasis within walking distance of both Ôkhra and the village, with a turquoise pool framed by pines and a generous Provençal breakfast.
Other options include:
La Maison des Ocres – Perched just at the edge of the village, this charming hotel boasts panoramic views of the ochre cliffs and the Luberon valley beyond.
Hotel Les Ambres – Located 1.5 km from the village of Roussillon and features an outdoor swimming pool and a tennis court.
Dining in Roussillon
Roussillon may be tiny, but it punches above its weight in culinary charm. A few standouts:
Restaurant David – Elegant Provençal dining with a terrace that looks out across the valley. Try the seasonal tasting menu if you can.
Le Piquebaure – More casual, with hearty fare and sweeping views from its terrace. Perfect for a sunset dinner.
La Grappe de Raisin – A cozy spot for traditional Provençal dishes, from lamb with herbs to lavender-scented desserts.
For a quick stop, grab a coffee and pastry at a café in the main square, and watch the swirl of village life pass by.
Things to Do Beyond Ôkhra
Le Sentier des Ocres – A must-do! This marked walking path winds through the ochre cliffs just outside the village of Roussillon. The colors—burnt orange, crimson, and golden yellow—glow especially vividly in the afternoon light.
Gordes & the Abbey of Sénanque – Just a short drive away, Gordes is another jewel of the Luberon, and the nearby abbey is surrounded by lavender fields in summer.
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue – Known as the Venice of Provence, this town is perfect for a day trip, especially on Sunday when its antique market fills the streets.
Wine tasting in the Luberon – Many nearby vineyards welcome visitors; look for rosés and reds that pair beautifully with Provençal cuisine.
My History with Roussillon
I first came to Roussillon in 1995 with my nine-year-old daughter. Back then, it was possible to scramble right up to the ochre cliffs (and yes, she rolled down them more than once). Her sneakers were permanently stained red—ochre souvenirs that even the washing machine couldn’t erase.
Today, access is more restricted, but the cliffs are still dazzling. With the right light and a camera in hand, you’ll come away with photographs that look almost unreal—glowing natural sculptures in shades of flame and gold.
Roussillon is a village of color and memory. Combine it with a visit to Ôkhra, and you’ll leave Provence not only with photos, but with the pigments of history under your fingernails.
Conclusion
Have you visited Roussillon? Share your experience with other artsy travelers in the comments below. Here are more posts on unique small museums in Europe:
Arles is one of those fascinating little cities that rewards lingering. Sure, you can tick off the Roman arena and a few Van Gogh sites in an afternoon, but if you stay a few days, you’ll uncover so much more.
On my recent three-night, two-and-a-half-day stay, I discovered three wonderful museums in Arles. None of them are connected to Van Gogh (much as I adore him!), and each in itself is worth the trip.
If you love history, art, and culture, make time for:
Musée Départemental Arles Antique (Museum of Ancient Arles and Provence)
Musée de la Mode et du Costume
Museon Arlaten
Each of these museums provides you with a unique perspective on the fascinating (and very old) city of Arles.
And bonus: At the end of this post, I mention two art sites related to Van Gogh. If you’re looking for a museum containing actual paintings by Van Gogh, you won’t find one in Arles. Check out the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam and the Musee d’Orsay in Paris instead.
Tours in Arles
In addition to checking out the museums that I recommend in this post, here are some tours from GetYourGuide that take you deeper into this lovely city and beyond.
If you have the time, I particularly recommend the tour to the Camargue, so long as the weather isn’t too hot. I’ve toured the area several times, and had my best experience in October when I saw lots of flamingos with no crowds and no mosquitoes!
Musée Départemental Arles Antique (Museum of Ancient Arles and Provence)
This sleek, modern museum, a 20-minute walk from the center of Arles, was a revelation. I went expecting a dusty little collection of artifacts and instead found a world-class museum.
Roman Arles in Context
Arles was a Roman colony from the 1st century BC, and its position at the mouth of the Rhône made it both strategic and prosperous. Roman veterans retired here, trade flourished, and ambitious construction projects transformed the city. Many of the monuments—like the arena and theater—still dominate Arles today.
Museum of Ancient Arles and Provence Highlights
The Roman Barge
This spectacular 30-meter-long river vessel was discovered in 2004 in the Rhône and painstakingly reconstructed after three years of conservation work in Grenoble.
Seeing it reassembled—complete with the limestone slabs it was transporting when it sank—is breathtaking. A short film (with English subtitles) explains the recovery process.
Roman Artifacts
Thousands of artifacts have been recovered from the Rhône and are displayed in the airy, well-lit galleries.
Browse cases containing delicate glassware, household items, pots that look like they just came out of the kiln, and more.
Statues & Mosaics
The collection of Roman statues, including a bust of Julius Caesar, rivals collections I’ve seen in museums I’ve visited in Rome.
Most are in incredible shape, many having been preserved under the silt of the Rhône for centuries. The middle bust below is of Julius Caesar.
Several parts of the large mosaic currently being restored are completely intact. I have a soft spot for Roman mosaics, and this one didn’t disappoint.
The Museum of Ancient Arles and Provence is the kind of museum that makes the Roman world come alive.
Museum of Ancient Arles and Provence Practical Information
Location: Presqu’île du Cirque Romain, Arles (next to the remains of the Roman circus).
Tickets: Around €8; free for under-18s. Check if there are renovations—sometimes entry is discounted or free.
Tip: Combine your visit with a stroll through the leafy park that surrounds the old circus site.
Musée de la Mode et du Costume
Arles’ newest museum is a delight Housed in the elegant 18th-century Hôtel Bouchaud de Bussy in the heart of Arles, the museum opened only a month before my visit in summer 2025.
A Fashionable History
This is the seventh cultural museum opened by Fragonard Parfumier to showcase local traditions through perfume, jewelry, and costume. The Arles museum draws on the extraordinary collection of historians Odile and Magali Pascal.
Musée de la Mode et du Costume Highlights
Historic Costumes
Start your tour of the museum by viewing the exquisitely curated displays of clothing from the 18th to the 19th centuries The workmanship and detail are simply stunning.
The Arlésienne Costume
Several display cases feature mannequins wearing Arlésienne dress and show how it’s evolved over the past few hundred years. View the elaborate updos and lace or ribbon headdresses that women in Arles still wear during local festivals.
One of my reasons for visiting Arles is to conduct research for a novel set there in the 19th century. Many of my characters would be wearing traditional Arlésienne dress. Between the Costume museum and the Museon Arletan, I accumulated a wealth of information!
Here are some of the Arlésienne costumes featured at the Musée de la Mode et du Costume.
Contemporary Installation
Nine contemporary women don traditional costumes on screen, reminding visitors that these aren’t relics—they’re still part of living culture. I sat in the darkened room in front of the screen and watched the film loop three times–it was that fascinating!
Musée de la Mode et du Costume Practical Information
Location: 7 rue de la République, Arles (near the Place de la République).
Hours: Closed Monday. Open Tuesday–Sunday, 10 a.m.–6 p.m.
Tickets: Around €6.50; free for children under 18.
Tip: Pair your visit with a coffee on nearby Place de la République—you’ll be walking through the heart of historic Arles.
Museon Arlaten
If you’re curious about daily life in Provence, this museum is pure joy.
Founded by Nobel Prize-winning Provençal poet Frédéric Mistral in 1899, the Museon Arlaten was completely renovated and reopened in 2021.
Today, it’s a modern, interactive ethnographic museum spread over four floors of a grand 16th-century mansion that includes the ruins of the Roman forum.
Museon Arlaten Highlights
From Mistral’s original vision to today’s Provence, the exhibits trace how folk traditions have evolved.
Dioramas
Beautifully detailed scenes of traditional Provençal life are brought to life with interactive screens in three languages (including English). You can click on a number on screen that corresponds with an object in the diorama to learn more information.
Costumes & Textiles
Complementing the fashion museum’s displays, the extensive costume and textile displays focus more on everyday wear and work clothes, showing how locals dressed across centuries. I particularly appreciated this example of the distinctive Arlésienne hair dressing with embossed ribbons.
Music & Objects
You’ll find an excellent collection of musical instruments, with audio samples so you can hear their sounds, alongside tools, furniture, and crafts from daily life. Here’s the screen I brought up to explain the Serpent instrument.
This museum feels immersive, like stepping into a time capsule of Provence.
Museon Arlaten Practical Information
Location: 29 rue de la République, Arles.
Hours: Closed Monday. Open Tuesday–Sunday, 10 a.m.–6 p.m.
Tickets: Around €8; reduced price if combined with other city museums.
Tip: Don’t rush—there are over 3,500 objects to explore. Plan at least two hours.
A 2-Day Artsy Itinerary for Arles
If you’re staying in Arles for a couple of days, here’s how to organize your time so you can take in all the best museums, with plenty of pauses for food, coffee, and atmosphere.
Day 1: Romans & Van Gogh
Morning: Musée Départemental Arles Antique
Start your day with a 20-minute walk from the center of Arles to the Museum of Ancient Arles and Provence. Arrive when it opens (10 a.m.) so you can enjoy the galleries before they get busy.
Plan to spend about two hours exploring the Roman barge, mosaics, and the museum’s remarkable artifacts, and watching the fascinating film about how the barge was recovered from the river and restored.
☕ Coffee Tip: If you need a caffeine fix on the way, grab one at Le Café Georges (along Boulevard Clemenceau)—a local favorite.
Lunch
Head back toward the center and stop for lunch at Le Jardin de la Muette, a leafy spot not far from the arena that serves Provençal cuisine with a modern touch.
Afternoon: Fondation Vincent van Gogh Arles
Although Arles doesn’t have any Van Gogh originals, the Fondation Van Gogh celebrates his spirit through exhibitions that pair his works with contemporary artists inspired by him.
The building itself—a beautifully restored 15th-century mansion—is worth a visit. Exhibits rotate regularly, so you’ll always find something fresh. Expect to spend about 1.5–2 hours.
Van Gogh Walking Tour
Download an audioguide to take a self-guided walking tour of Van Gogh sites (the Place du Forum café, the Espace Van Gogh garden, and more).
I purchased the walking tour called In the Footsteps of Van Gogh: An Arles Audio Guide from Context Travel, which I recommend. Or, you can download a free auioguide at the Tourist Information Office. While you’re there, pick up their handy paper map.
Day 2: Fashion, Folk Traditions & Futuristic Art
Morning: Musée de la Mode et du Costume
Begin in the heart of Arles at the Musée de la Mode et du Costume. Spend 1–1.5 hours admiring the curated historic costumes and the beautiful Hôtel Bouchaud de Bussy.
Don’t miss the film showing contemporary women dressing in traditional costume—a lovely bridge between past and present.
☕ Coffee Break: Have a mid-morning espresso at Café Van Gogh on Place du Forum. Yes, it’s touristy, but sitting under the yellow awning that inspired his famous café painting is a must-do.
Late Morning to Lunch: Museon Arlaten
Just down the street is the Museon Arlaten, a perfect companion to the costume museum. Plan at least 2 hours to enjoy the dioramas, costumes, musical instruments, and thousands of everyday objects.
It’s immersive, interactive, and gives you an insider’s view of Provençal culture.
🥗 Lunch Tip: Stop at Chez Hélène, a casual Provençal café near Place de la République, for a simple but delicious lunch.
Afternoon: Luma Arles
End your Arles museum tour with something completely different: the Luma Arles contemporary art complex, located in the Parc des Ateliers (about a 10-minute walk south of the center).
You can’t miss Frank Gehry’s dazzling, twisting metal tower—the centerpiece of Luma. Inside are rotating contemporary art exhibitions, installations, and immersive multimedia experiences.
Surrounding the tower are landscaped gardens, exhibition halls, and a vibrant café scene.
Expect to spend at least 2–3 hours, especially if you enjoy contemporary art or photography.
🍹 Dinner & Evening: Stay in the Luma neighborhood and enjoy a relaxed dinner at La Chassagnette, a Michelin-starred restaurant with a focus on seasonal, locally grown produce. Or, head back into town for something more casual like Bistrot Arlésien.
Notes & Tips
Tickets: Some Arles museums offer combined tickets—worth asking if you plan multiple visits.
Timing: Most museums open at 10 a.m. and close around 6 p.m., with last entry around 5:15 p.m. Mondays and Tuesdays are common closing days—plan accordingly.
Walking: Arles is compact—everything except the Roman museum and Luma is within a 5–10 minute walk. Wear comfortable shoes for cobblestones!
✨ With this itinerary, you’ll cover Romans, Van Gogh, Provençal life, historic costumes, and cutting-edge contemporary art—all in two days. Arles truly offers a museum experience like no other in Provence.
Where to Stay in Arles
I stayed at the Mercure Arles Centre Arenes, a chain hotel with comfortable rooms, easy parking, and mostly importantly, a very convenient location. The hotel even has a teeny swimming pool on the roof with views over Arles.
Several times a day, I crossed the street from the hotel, passed the Tourist Information Center, and entered the narrow streets of central Arles. Nothing is more than a 10 to 15 minute walk from the hotel, including Luna and the Archeological Museum.
Here’s a map showing other options for staying in Arles.
https://stay22.com/embed/68b0be7f1d7732c5a6147a48
Conclusion
Arles offers so much more than Roman ruins and Van Gogh trails. These three museums—ancient history, local costume, and Provençal life—together provide a rich, layered portrait of the city and its people.
If you’re an artsy traveler like me, block out a couple of days to dive deep into Arles’ museums. You’ll come away with a much richer appreciation for this little city at the mouth of the Rhône, where history, art, and tradition flow together as seamlessly as the river itself.
Have you visited Arles? Share your suggestions for other artsy travelers in the Comments below.
The Ardèche Gorge in France is famous for its rugged cliffs, its tranquil river dotted with sets of gentle rapids perfect for kayaking, and its world-renowned prehistoric caves.
The natural beauty of the Ardèche gorge attracts visitors from all over the world.
If you love the outdoors, you’ll find plenty to do at the Ardèche Gorge—hiking, cycling, kayaking, and rappelling are just the beginning.
Even if you’re not into adventure sports, you can enjoy highlights such as the iconic Pont d’Arc rock formation and the spectacular Grotte Chauvet 2 (reservations essential).
In this post, I focus on how to spend a relaxing day in the Ardèche gorge that combines some sightseeing, a visit to the Grotte Chauvet 2, and time for swimming and sunbathing.
Getting to the Ardèche Gorge in France
Getting to the Ardèche gorge is relatively easy, as it is located about an hour west of the main motorway that whisks visitors from Paris to the south of France.
We started in Dijon, which according to Google Maps is about a four-hour drive from our destination—the Prehistoric Lodge near Vallon d’Arc. But since it was August and all of France (plus a good proportion of the Netherlands judging from the many NL plates we spotted) was on the move south, traffic on the Autoroute du Soleil slowed to a crawl.
Places to Stay
Here are some other places to stay in the Ardèche region. If you’re traveling in the summer, I advise finding a place that either has a swimming pool or easy access to a river or lake.
Staying at the Prehistoric Lodge near the Ardèche Gorge
After some wrong turns courtesy of a rogue GPS that directed us to a gated pathway, we finally pulled up to the Prehistoric Lodge just past 6 pm, only an hour before the reception closed.
We entered the gate code, drove through, and were immediately captivated by both the stunning view of the Ardèche gorge and the friendly attendant who greeteds us. After we parked, she loaded our suitcases into a golf cart and tootled down the dirt road to our “tent” for the next two nights.
Our tent reminded me of safari lodges I’ve seen in travel magazines. It’s outfitted with a sturdy wooden frame, a camp bed for our bags, a wooden bathtub, a surprisingly comfortable double bed, and even a flush toilet (tucked behind a less-than-private wooden screen).
There’s no air conditioning, but a fan did its best to move the hot August air.
Swimming in the Ardèche River
The best thing about Prehistoric Lodge is its unbeatable location right on the river.
After settling in, we pulled bathing suits over our sweaty, road-weary bodies and headed into the water.
Heaven!
I waded right in and was over my head within seconds. The current was mild so no worries about being swept into the rapids burbling away about fifty meters downstream.
Dinner at the Lodge
After our swim, we dried off just in time for dinner at 7:30 pm on the terrace of the Prehistoric Lodge overlooking the Ardèche gorge.
The food is excellent and beautifully presented: burrata and tomatoes followed by chicken curry for Gregg, while I enjoyed tempura prawns with salad and beef carpaccio smothered in thin slabs of fresh parmesan. We declined dessert but could easily have been tempted.
Our first night passed reasonably well despite the heat. With daytime highs of 38 degrees, the tent didn’t cool until around 4:30 am—just in time for me to pull a light blanket over myself.
Full Day in the Ardèche Gorge
Breakfast
With only one full day in the Ardèche, we decided to keep things relaxed. Breakfast on the terrace—coffee, orange juice, and a giant croissant—fueled us for our morning outing.
See Pont d’Arc Early or Late
We drove a few kiloemters further up the gorge to the famous Pont d’Arc, a natural rock arch carved by the Ardèche River. Arriving just before 10 am turned out to be a smart move; the parking lot still had 69 spaces.
The arch was impressive even in morning shadow, and the tiny beach beneath it was already crowded with families staking out spots for the day.
We drove to another lookout farther up the gorge to admire the classic sunlit view of the arch. Interpretive plaques explain how, for centuries, Pont d’Arc was the only river crossing, until Louis XIII ordered part of it destroyed to block enemy troops.
By the time we passed back by the main lot, the “Complet” sign was lit. If you don’t come early, park in Vallon d’Arc and take the shuttle bus instead.
Shuttle Bus from Vallon d’Arc
If you plan to visit the arch after mid-morning, I suggest parking in Vallon d’Arc and taking the handy shuttle bus. You can also rent an e-bike, although it wouldn’t be my first choice.
While the road is smooth, it is also narrow with a rock face on one side and a sheer drop on the other. And there is a lot of vehicular traffic, including large busses. More than a few times, I watched cyclists being passed with centimeters to spare. Made me shudder!
Ardèche Foefw Tours and Activities
Here are a few from GetYourGuide you could check out if you have the time and inclination.
Relaxing on the Ardèche River
Back “home” at Prehistoric Lodge, I changed into my bathing suit and settled under a tent erected on the riverside plage. Nearby was a truck selling snacks and drinks. The river itself was clogged with colorful kayaks heading downstream from Vallon d’Arc to the arch. It looks like a tranquil way to see the river.
Across the river people are rappelling from a cave at the top of the cliff to the riverbank.
Afternoon at Grotte Chauvet 2 near the Ardèche Gorge
To share its treasures, France built Chauvet 2, an exact replica down to the contours of the walls, mineral deposits, and every brushstroke, making it a must-see for anyone visiting the Ardèche gorge.
Afternoon at Grotte Chauvet 2
I go out of my way to visit caves containing art done by our distant forebears. On Artsy Traveler, you’ll find lots of information about my visit to the Caves of Lascaux, the granddaddy of cave art sites. I’ve also visited Altamira in northern Spain to view a replica of the Altamira Cave near Santillana del Mar.
The Grotte Chauvet 2 is just as important to visit, and of the three, is the hands down winner when it comes to how it organizes its visitors.
We booked tickets months in advance—absolutely essential!—for the 7 pm slot, but we arrive around 4:30 to explore. The drive up winds through dramatic gorges, and the site itself is modern, spacious, and well organized.
History of the Cave
The original Chauvet Cave was discovered in December 1994 by three local spelunkers—Jean-Marie Chauvet, Éliette Brunel, and Christian Hillaire. Inside, archaeologists uncovered a breathtaking collection of cave paintings dating back 36,000 years, making them the oldest known figurative art in the world.
If you’re an art lover, the cave art at Grotte Chauvet 2 nearby is a fascinating link to the region’s prehistoric past.
Over 1,000 images have been identified—horses, lions, rhinos, bears, and owls—rendered with surprising sophistication. The artists used shading, perspective, and movement in ways that feel astonishingly modern.
Because of the tragic lessons of Lascaux, where carbon dioxide, mold, and algae from tourism irreparably damaged the art, Chauvet was sealed immediately after its discovery. Scientists may only enter under strict conditions.
Exploring Chauvet 2
Before entering the cave, we explored the Aurignacien Gallery, which is a museum dedicated to life in the Paleolithic within the context of the Ardèche gorge.
Life-sized models of lions, mammoths, cave bears, and woolly rhinos stalk through the space, giving you an idea of the animals depicted inside the cave—and the world our ancestors inhabited.
Inside the cave replica itself, photography is forbidden, but the experience is unforgettable. Our English-language headsets automatically synced with our location, so we could wander the chambers at our own pace without missing a word of commentary.
The highlights?
A breathtaking panel of horses, with four animals in motion, their manes flying.
A striking pride of lions, the only known cave depiction of predators in action.
Huge sweeping scenes of mammoths and rhinos that seem to move across the walls.
Haunting handprints—direct connections to individuals who lived 36 millennia ago.
Here are some images from the cave included in the book I purchased in the very extensive gift shop. You can buy images from the cave on everything from tea towels to fridge magnets, and get stuffed versions of many of the animals.
As you explore, keep an eye out for local wildlife; the Ardèche Gorge is home to diverse species.
Touring Grotte Chauvet 2 is a remarkable experience not to be missed.
Practical Information for Visiting Grotte Chauvet 2
Location: Grotte Chauvet 2 is about 15 minutes by car from Vallon d’Arc.
Opening hours: Daily, but hours vary by season—typically 9 am–7 pm in summer.
Tickets: €18 per adult, €9.50 for children 10–17 (under 10 free). Family passes are available. Advance booking online is essential, especially in summer. Hint: If you arrive early, check to see if you can change the time of your cave tour. We arrived at 4:30 for a 7 pm slot and were given the 5:30 pm slot which suited us perfectly.
Other facilities: A café for snacks and light meals, gift shop, picnic areas, and the excellent museum. Plan 3–4 hours to fully enjoy everything.
Wrapping Up
On our way back to Prehistoric Lodge after our cave tour, we stop at a pizzeria just outside Vallon d’Arc and enjoyed an excellent pizza and two cold beers.
It’s dusk by the time we return, and the river is quiet. There’s time for one last swim before the sun disappears. We sink gratefully into the cool water, then spend time chatting with a young couple from the Netherlands.
If You Go: Ardèche Essentials
Best Time to Visit: Spring (May–June) and early fall (September) for pleasant temperatures and fewer crowds. July–August is lively but very hot and crowded.
Where to Stay: Prehistoric Lodge (rustic luxury tents right on the river, 5 minutes from Pont d’Arc). Book early in summer.
Getting There: Vallon d’Arc is about 2.5 hours from Lyon, 3.5 hours from Marseille, and 4 hours from Dijon. You’ll need a car to explore.
What to Pack: Swimsuit, water shoes for river swimming, light layers for hot days and cool nights, sunhat, refillable water bottle, and sturdy shoes if you plan to hike.
Don’t Miss:
Morning or late-afternoon visit to Pont d’Arc before parking fills.
A lazy swim or kayak trip on the Ardèche River.
Afternoon tour at Grotte Chauvet 2 (book months in advance).
Pont d’Arc: Parking €10/day in summer; shuttle bus from Vallon d’Arc if lots are full.
Conclusion
If you have just two nights and a day in the Ardèche, combine river swims and views of Pont d’Arc with an afternoon and early evening at Chauvet 2. It’s the perfect blend of natural wonder, outdoor adventure, and deep cultural history.
Have you visited the Ardèche region? What are your recommendations for other artsy travelers? Please share them in the Comments below.
Here are some more Artsy Traveler posts about natural wonders I’ve enjoyed visiting in Europe:
If you’re looking for a modern art fix while traveling down the Rhine, make your way to Museum Ludwig in Cologne, Germany.
This museum of modern art close to Cologne Cathedral houses one of Europe’s most significant collections of modern and contemporary art.
The early 20th century collection at Museum Ludwig is particularly fabulous, with paintings and artists organized into movements—expressionism, cubism, abstraction, surrealism, and so on. You’ll find masterpieces by pretty much every big name in 20th century art including Picasso, Ernst, and Dali, along with some superb examples of German expressionism.
Also notable is how many of the artworks were created by women. In recent years, I’ve noticed many more women artists represented in major art galleries, something that was a rarity not so long ago.
At the Ludwig Museum, I discovered some old favorites and some new-to-me gems. Here’s a curated tour featuring some of the many pieces I admired.
Niki de Saint Phalle – Black Nana, 1968/69
You’re greeted in the foyer of Museum Ludwig by one of Niki de Saint Phalle’s voluptuously joyous figures from her Nana series. Nana’s exuberant curves and playful patterns feel like art giving you a high-five.
Note: Niki de Saint Phalle’s work is being featured a lot these days. In 2025, I saw two special exhibitions of her work—one in Quebec City and the other at the Caumont in Aix-en-Provence. If you’re headed to Italy, check out Giardino Tarocchi (Tarot Garden) near Grossetto about 2 hours north or Rome.
The work of Natalia Gontscharowa is new to me and wow! She was one of the leading figures in the Russian avant-garde, living in Russia until 1921 when she moved to Paris. She also became a member of Der Blaue Reiter group in Germany.
This wonderful nude is a rebellious take on Slavic folklore. The woman looks straight at us, uncowed and strong.
Sonia Delaunay-Terk – Colour Rhythm, 1968
Sonia Delaunay-Terk turns geometry into a dance with this presentation of colourful circles and rectangles. The abstract energy in her work makes me smile.
Ursula -The Trees, 1985
Several works by Ursula are featured in one of the rooms at Museum Ludwig.
A self-taught artist, Ursula resists categorization into a particular style. Her work is based on observations of everyday life and on stories or myths, and reflects her own emotional states. Describing her work, Ursula wrote: “I impose my visions on reality—I’m completely artificial.”
All the works in the room are strangely compelling, some even fantastical. I particularly liked The Trees for the way it depicts strange, cactus-like foliage and how she uses contrasting colours.
Francis Picabia – The Bride, 1929
I’m pretty new to the work of Picabia, but I’m liking what I see. He was a French avant-garde painter, writer, filmmaker, publisher, and poet, and was closely associated with the Dada movement.
His work has been described as “shape-shifting” or “kaleidoscopic”, both elements I clearly see in The Bride. The more you look at it, the more you see new shapes that seem to morph and shift before your eyes.
Paul Klee – Highway and Byways, 1929
I’m a big Paul Klee fan and this piece is a beauty. Check out how the linear paths trace both detours and destinations. The piece is like a poetic map of introspection. There is much detail to fixate on.
On my artsy traveler list of museums to visit in Europe is Zentrum Paul Klee in Bern, Switzerland.
Piet Mondrian – Painting II, 1921
No serious collection of 20th century art would be complete without one of Mondrian’s iconic minimalist abstracts. His work is still the very definition of modernism.
René Magritte – The Giantess, 1929-1931
I’d not seen this Magritte before, although Gregg (husband and also visual artist) tells me it a very famous one.
The giantess is so perfectly giant in the way she effortlessly dominates the room, with the tiny man in the corner looking lost. What an imagination Magritte had!
Richard Oelze – Growing Silence, 1961
There’s so much to look at in this painting, which combines elements of both the ancient and the modern.
I see echoes of Bosch in the weird figures and the tones Oelze uses, but also of Max Ernst, one of my favorite surrealists.
Known as the forgotten German surrealist, Oelze’s work is gaining more recognition in recent years with his inclusion in several major surrealist exhibitions.
Max Ernst – Song of the Cicadas to the Moon, 1954
Museum Ludwig includes several excellent paintings by Max Ernst in its collection. I like this one because it’s an example of his use of decalcomania and frottage to create the complex and detailed patterns that swirl through the green and blue foreground.
Fernand Léger – ThePicnic, 1954
Léger’s the master when it comes to creating paintings that are both whimsical and bold. His work is so marvelously distinctive.
This piece uses a greater variety of colours than I’ve been used to seeing in his work. I’m loving his weird trees!
Ljubow Popowa – Portrait of a Woman, 1915
Ljubow Popowa is another new-to-me avant-garde artist from Russia. She was one of the first pioneers of cubo-futurism in a style she called painterly architectonics, which I think perfectly describes this work.
André Derain – View of Saint‑Paul‑de‑Vence, 1910
Derain’s fauvist palette energizes this view of the charming village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence in the south of France.
August Macke – Lady in a Green Jacket, 1913
It’s Macke’s use of vivid colour that is so compelling in this lovely painting. I find it both calm and exciting at the same time.
David Hockney – Sunbather, 1966
I’m a big fan of the work of David Hockney, particularly his later landscapes. This painting from the 1960s is emblematic of his earlier style, and feels very nostalgic.
Gerhard Richter – War (Abstract No. 484), 1981
This vibrant abstract by Gerhard Richter practically jumped off the wall. I was drawn to it immediately.
Willem de Kooning – Untitled VII, 1984
The fierce, gestural strokes captures so much movements with a colour palette and spaciousness that I don’t associate with de Kooning, but that I really like.
More Collections
On the bottom floor of the building are several rooms housing the latest exhibitions of contemporary art. I made a quick tour through, but this time didn’t see anything that intrigued me.
Museum Ludwig also has some lovely rooms full of sculptures, and the museum itself feels light and airy. Don’t miss stepping out on the terrace to view Cologne Cathedral where the picture at the top of this post was taken.
Practical Information
Location: Right next to the Cologne Cathedral—easy to find and impossible to miss.
What to expect: A sprawling, dynamic museum featuring an extensive collection of works in most 20th century styles, including expressionism, surrealism, cubism, and abstraction, with a good representation of female artists.
Tip: Go slow. This collection rewards time—each canvas is its own story.
Hours: Tuesday – Sunday (including public holidays): 10 am – 6 pm and opening from 10 am to 10 pm on every 1st Thursday. The museum is closed on Mondays.
Ticket price: € 11,00.
Visiting the City of Cologne
Cologne makes a great home base for exploring the region. Check out the massive Cologne Cathedral and then take a stroll along the Rhine. Consider staying at one of the hotels overlooking the river.
Another excellent museum that I’ve visited in Cologne is the Romano-Germanic Museum, which is next door to the Ludwig Museum. At present, the museum is closed for renovations, so the collection is on display at Belgian House at Cäcilienstraße 46 (near Neumarkt).
While staying in Cologne, you can also take a train south to Bonn to tour the Beethoven-Haus museum.
Here are some other activities on GetYourGuide:
Staying in Cologne
Choose one of the hotels facing the Rhine River and close to the major sites including Museum Ludwig and Cologne Cathedral.
Here are some options:
Conclusion
I’d rank Museum Ludwig right up there with the top modern art museums in Europe including the Tate Modern in London and the Pompidou in Paris. Have you visited? Share your recommendations for other artsy travelers in the comments below.
Here are some more posts about art museums in Europe:
Beethoven House Museum (known as Beethoven-Haus) in Bonn, Germany, is the place for fans of classical music (like me!) The museum is housed in the birthplace of Ludwig van Beethoven.
As one of the most popular museums in Germany, Beethoven House (Beethoven-Haus) provides music-lovers with three three floors of displays in one of the few remaining Baroque townhouses in Bonn.
While staying in Cologne, I did a day trip to Bonn, where I visited Beethoven’s birthplace, strolled through the car-free center of Bonn, and enjoyed a walk alongside the Rhine River to admire the passing boats. If you have time, you can even take a boat tour down the Rhine.
Exploring Beethoven-Haus Museum and communing with Beethoven
Strolling along the Rhine on the wide promenade
Discovering the old town of Bonn
Staying in Cologne at a hotel overlooking the Rhine
Getting to Bonn
I advise staying in Cologne, where there is lots to do, and then taking the train or the metro to Bonn. The trip takes about 30 minutes on the train and 50 minutes by metro, depending on where in Cologne you are staying.
I took the train from Cologne to Bonn and then the metro back. The metro is about 1/4 the price of the train, and not that much slower. Also, the train, which I took from the Koln Sud station (but you could also catch from the main station in Cologne) was extremely crowded with no place to sit.
By contrast, the ride on the metro was very poeasant, with quite a bit of the journey skirting the Rhine with beautiful views.
A few years ago, I drove to Bonn and ended up in a major traffic jam, and then couldn’t find a parking lot with space. I had to reluctantly abandon my plan to visit Beethoven-Haus on that trip.. The train is your safest bet.
Once in Bonn, stroll from the train station down to the Rhine to enjoy the view and maybe stop for a drink at one of the riverside cafes. Here’s the view of boats playing the Rhine that we enjoyed while sipping a ginger lemonade:
From the Rhine, walk back into the main part of Bonn and head for Beethoven-Haus at Bonngasse 20 (und 24-26).
Starting Your Visit at Beethoven-Haus in Bonn
Across the street from the house where Beethoven was born is a building housing the gift shop and ticket office. Go there first to buy your tickets.
If you’ve already bought them online (recommended), verify that you’re entering at the right time and date.
TIP: The museum is small, so to avoid disappointment, buy your tickets in advance for a specific time slot.
In the gift shop is a massive seated figure representing Beethoven at work. Like legions of Beethoven lovers before me, I had my picture taken standing next to him.
I then crossed the street to the house in which Beethoven was born on December 17th (or possibly December 16th) in 1770, and spent the first three years of his life.
Get the AudioGuide
At the entrance to Beethoven Haus, the attendant handed me a sheet with a QR code to scan to download the audio guide. While you can enjoy the displays spread across three floors without the audioguide, it does provide you with more in depth information about what you’re looking at.
The first thing you’ll learn by listening to the audioguide is that the house is the only one of the houses in Bonn in which the Beethoven family lived that has survived.
When the house was for sale in 1889, a group of wealthy businessmen purchased it and established the Beethoven House Association that to this day manages the site.
Touring Beethoven-Haus
Ground Floor
The first room you enter on the ground floor contains several of the many portraits and sculptures done of Beethoven during his lifetime. The most famous portrait of the great composer is by Joseph Stieler. It’s highly romanticized and idealized, and the only portrait showing Beethoven at work.
At the back of the house on the ground floor are displays from Beethoven’s childhood including the record of his christening. Historians don’t know if he was born on December 16th or 17th, only that he was christened on December 17th.
One of the displays is Beethoven’s viola, which he started playing at the age of 19 when he became a court musician. Up until that time, he was most known as a pianist, performing in his first public concert when he was just seven years old.
First Floor
Climb the narrow staircase to the first floor where you’ll find displays about Beethoven’s life and work. I was intrigued by the receipt from Beethoven’s publisher that records payment for five works, including the Fifth Symphony.
Beethoven made a lot of his money selling the rights to publish his pieces in countries all over Europe.
I was also surprised to see his eyeglasses and learn that Beethoven was short-sighted. None of the portraits showed him wearing glasses.
Also on this floor are displays related to some of Beethoven’s friends, mostly in Vienna where he lived after leaving Bonn as a young man.
Second Floor
This was my favorite floor because it focused primarily on Beethoven and his work. Included is one of his pianos along with many of his manuscripts written in his characteristically illegible scrawl.
I couldn’t begin to decipher the notes and marveled at the patience of the publishers who managed to do in order to produce the music I’ve been playing since I was about twelve and could manage an octave!
The floor also includes displays related to Beethoven’s tragic hearing loss beginning in his early thirties when he was at the height of his fame. The display of ear trumpets is particularly poignant as is this replica of Beethoven’s death mask.
And finally, I was pleased to see a reproduction of a painting depicting Beethoven’s funeral on March 27, 1826. Between 10,000 and 30,000 people turned turned out to watch Beethoven’s casket pass by. Beethoven was very famous and a good chunk of Vienna wanted to pay tribute to the maestro.
My second novel, A Woman of Note, about a female composer in 1830s Vienna, opens with a description of Beethoven’s funeral. I looked at this painting many times during my research to get a sense of what the procession may have looked like.
Courtyard
After touring the house, go back downstairs and out into the tranquil courtyard. If you’re lucky, as I was, you’ll find it deserted. Snap a picture of yourself with a bust of Beethoven and then settle onto a bench to enjoy the quiet.
Music Room at the Beethoven-Haus
To finish your visit, make sure you enter the adjacent building. Here, you can sit and enjoy a performance of the Moonlight Sonata. The manuscript that Beethoven wrote—with all its spikes and crossings-out—is projected onto the wall and a light follows the notes as they are played.
I’ve played this sonata many times and so was thrilled to hear it played while looking at the actual notes that Beethoven wrote.
Gift Shop
After communing with the maestro in his house and listening to The Moonlight Sonata, your very last stop is, naturally, the gift shop. Here, you’ll find plenty of Beethoven-themed schlock that is perfect for the Beethoven lover in your life.
I resisted everything only to be seduced by the tackiest item in the shop—a Beethoven duckie. He sits on my desk as I write. His quill is poised, his hair wild and his orange beak opened just a touch as if ready to tell you all about his latest masterpiece.
Practical Information
The Beethoven-Haus (Bonngasse 20 and 24-26) is situated on the edge of the pedestrian zone within easy walking distance of the main station.
Opening hours are Wednesday to Monday from 10 am to 6 pm (open only to pre-booked groups on Tuesdays). Cost is €14 for adults and €7 for children.
Other Music Museums Worth Visiting
While I enjoyed visiting Beethoven Haus and communing with the spirit of the young Beethoven, I was even more excited by the Beethoven museums in Vienna. Here, you can visit some of the apartments in which Beethoven lived and worked, and gain a much deeper undrestanding of his music.
Vienna is also home to museums dedicated to Hadyn, Mozart, Schubert, and Strauss, among others. Read more in my post A Music Lover’s Guide to Vienna.
Also check out the Bach Museum in Leipzig, which for me, is the best music museum I’ve ever visited. Read more here.
Staying in Cologne
As mentioned earlier, consider staying in Cologne rather than in Bonn. Cologne as a lot to offer with its museums, cathedral, and lively riverfront area. Here you can watch the locals go by while enjoying a great meal. Don’t forget to sample a glass (or two) of Kölsch, a local beer brewed only in Cologne. It goes down very easy.
Conclusion
Have you visited the Beethoven-Haus Museum? What did you think? Share your recommendations fir other artsy travelres in the comments below.
The Neon Museum and the new Arte Museum in Las Vegas are two of the most compelling attractions in a city replete with attractions.
One brings the history of this unique city to life; the other is cutting-edge state of the art wowza.
On my recent trip to glitzy, ritzy Vegas, I visited both the Neon Museum and the Arte Museum. If you’re looking to feel inspired, surprised, and delighted, I recommend visiting both.
Pro Tip
Visit the Neon Museum as late in the evening as you can to enjoy the lights. When the weather outside is hot (which in Vegas, it very often is!), enjoy the air-conditioned, indoor Arte Museum.
I was in Vegas at the end of June when temperatures soared to 41 degrees (106 Fahrenheit). My visit to the Neon Museum, where I took the guided tour, was warm at 9:00 pm, but definitely doable, and just below the 105-degree threshold that requires the museum to close.
Find great Las Vegas Hotels Book a Tour Outside Las Vegas
The Neon Museum: A Graveyard of Glorious Signs
Neon and Vegas go together like, well, neon and Vegas. The Las Vegas strip is ablaze 24/7 and all that glitters in Vegas is definitely not gold. It’s neon! Lots and lots of neon, much of it pulsating.
The Neon Museum was established as a non-profit learning institution back in 1996. Its mandate is to use iconic neon signs to share the art, culture, and history of Las Vegas.
Located near Fremont Street, the Neon Museum campus includes the Neon Boneyard Main Collection that is open to the public, the North Gallery, which houses additional rescued signs, and a Visitors’ Center housed inside the former La Concha Motel lobby.
In the Neon Boneyard, you’ll find more than 250 unrestored signs which are illuminated with ground lighting in addition to 26 restored signs which are on all the time.
Types of Signs
The stars of the boneyard are iconic signs from the Stardust and Sahara—flashy throwbacks to mid-century glamor! They are wonderfully photogenic.
You’ll see several old motel, restaurant, and even laundromat signs that invoke the forties, fifties, and sixties. I particularly love this neon sign from the Yucca Motel because it reminded me of the motels I used to stay in traveling around the western States with my parents when I was a little girl.
Also check out some of the more whimsical signs such as the guitar from the Hard Rock Café and the giant duck.
Take the Guided Tour
This is a must-do! You can walk through the boneyard on your own during daylight hours, but you won’t get particularly great pictures, or learn much of the fascinating history. Plaques with information are strategically located around the circuit, but they are no substitute for a guided tour.
I highly recommend the guided tour. I’ve taken it twice on two separate trips to Las Vegas, and I learned something new each time. The guides are funny, informative, and clearly passionate about Vegas history.
Three guided tours in English are offered:
Illuminating Las Vegas: focus on the history of illuminations in Las Vegas
Viva Las Vegas! Movies: view the signs in the context of the part their played as iconic backdrops in movies over the last century.
Stories from Las Vegas: The origins of Vegas, its designers, and the Neon Boneyard.
Spanish speakers can take the Historia. Sacado a la luz tour.
The tour lasts about 45 minutes and costs around $28 for adults, which I found to be excellent value considering the wealth of stories and the photo ops.
Night tours sell out fast, so book ahead if you want to see the glowing signs in their full technicolor glory.
And for more lights, check out this GetYourGuide tour of Las Vegas at night.
Arte Museum: Immerse Your Senses
The Neon Museum joyfully preserves the past, while the Arte Museum is all about welcoming in the future. Stepping int this multi-room, multi-sensory digital art space is like stepping into a dream.
I’ve seen a few digital immersion exhibits in my time, but the one at the Arte Museum is at a whole new level. It’s a high-res, surround-sound, motion-sensitive, jaw-droppingly gorgeous experience that truly will knock your socks off.
Except this is Vegas and if it’s 106 Fahrenheit outside like it was the day I visited, you won’t be wearing socks.
Exploring the Rooms
The Arte Museum is made up of themed immersive spaces that rotate between works of digital art, soundscapes, and optical illusion.
Here are a few of my favorites:
Nature Rooms
Waves crash in slow motion under the Northern Lights, projected floor-to-ceiling with such realism that you feel the chill in the air. I also really liked the Forest where spirit guides from the four elements–Earth, Wind, Fire, and Air and the four seasons come alive. Here’s the stag (Earth) for Spring.
This photo captures the stag in mid-stride. It stalks gracefully through the forest backdrop, its hide shedding petals.
Art Gallery
Several artists are featured in a series of projections. Van Gogh’s Starry Night swirls around you before morphing into paintings of Brittany and the South Pacific by Paul Gauguin, followed by a stunning procession of portraits by Gustav Klimt (he of The Kiss fame).
Take a seat on one of the thoughtfully provided benches and just give yourself over to enjoyment. I must have sat there for at least thirty minutes, loving every moment of the experience.
Lantern Room
Walk right into this room full of floating lanterns. They shimmer and change color over the course of several minutes. It’s truly magical.
Other rooms are more interactive, with mirrors, lights, and unexpected animations that make you feel like part of the art itself. It’s like walking through a living canvas.
Why It’s So Compelling
What sets Arte Museum apart is how seamlessly it blends technology and storytelling. The projections are crisp, the rooms respond to movement, and the music matches the imagery in a variety of fascinating ways.
The experience truly is mesmerizing and meditative. I found myself standing for long periods in the middle of one of the animations such as the crashing waves and just imagining myself inside the waves.
You’ll want to spend at least 90 minutes to two hours in the Arte Museum.
Great for All Ages (Yes, Even Kids!)
The Arte Museum is an awesome place to go with kids. I can’t imagine them getting bored with so much to look at and interact with. There is even a room in which you can color in an animal and then watch it lumber across the screen along with other people’s drawings.
I colored in a blue elephant and put my initials on him so I could track his progress.
The creators of the Arte Museum are a South Korean collective known for blending AI with design and light. The tech behind the scenes is top-tier, but it never overwhelms the art—it enhances it.
Click below to check availablity and purchase tickets for Arte Museum through GetYourGuide:
Final Thoughts: Two Museums, One Enchanting Day
If you want to escape the slot machines for a bit and soak up some seriously dazzling art and history, pair the Neon Museum with the Arte Museum for a day that’s cultural and unforgettable.
I suggest doing the Arte Museum in the afternoon—to avoid the crowds—and ending your evening with a twilight tour of the Neon Museum when the signs flicker to life. Make sure you book the Neon Museum tour in advance.
Here are some other Las Vegas tours to consider with GetYourGuide:
Have you visited the Neon Museum and/or the Arte Museum? Share your recommendations and tips for other artsy travelers in the comments below.
lf you love art, visit The Hague to tour two excellent museums—the Mauritshuis and M. C. Escher in the Palace. The museums are within a few minutes’ walk of each other and easily toured in an afternoon.
Drop into The Hague for a quick visit en route to elsewhere in The Netherlands, or stay the night. I chose to spend the night, which gave me the chance to wander around the mostly deserted (but safe) streets after dark.
This post describes some of my favorite exhibits in the two museums and includes recommendations for places to stay in The Hague and tours to nearby attractions.
The Hague Overview
The Hague (AKA Den Haag) is not a heavily touristed city, certainly not on the level of Amsterdam with its canals and gift shops and hordes of visitors. Instead, The Hague consists of ultra-modern skyscrapers and a compact oldish section with a smattering of outdoor cafés and an attractive wide canal that features a fountain.
On your way to the two museums, you’ll stroll through the park that lines the canal across from which is a palace. Most of the people you’ll encounter will be locals, many relaxing on the benches and enjoying the sunshine on clear days.
I visited in early April when the air was chilly enough to need a scarf and the planters bristled with daffodils and tulips, but the sky was blue and the vibe very relaxed.
At the end of the canal sits the lovely Mauritshuis, an exquisite example of Dutch architecture. To the left of the Mauritshuis, a short stroll through the park, is Escher in the Palace.
Mauritshuis
The Mauritshuis in The Hague is truly world-class. I’d go so far as to say its collection of Dutch and Flemish masterpieces is even more compelling than that of the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam. The collections are certainly a lot more accessible and easier to enjoy.
I love the Rijksmuseum, but its Gallery of Honor, where the most famous paintings are located, is so crowded that you sometimes need to wait for quite a while before you can get close enough to admire a particular masterpiece.
Not so at the Mauritshuis. The elegant building dates from the 17th century and was once the home of Count Johan Maurits of Nassau-Siegen who was the governor of the Dutch colony in Brazil. The museum’s name, “Mauritshuis”, translates to “Maurits’s house.” The building was established as a museum in 1822, and then extensively renovated and expanded over the years.
Entering the Mauritshuis Museum
You realize the Mauritshuis is special from the moment you enter. Descend a staircase (or take the elevator) from street level to emerge into a large and airy foyer complete with gift shop (of course) and ticket office.
The museum has recently undergone a face lift, and you get the feeling that everything is state-of-the-art. The museum’s website (https://www.mauritshuis.nl/en) bears this out; it’s a wonderful resource to accompany your visit to the museum.
Getting Tickets to Mauritshuis
I’d purchased a ticket in advance and I recommend you do as well. When I arrived about half an hour before the time on my ticket, there was no lineup to buy on-the-day tickets, but by the time I left, the lineup was quite long. To be on the safe side, go with tickets.
You can purchase tickets directly from the museum’s website or through GetYourGuide. Here’s an option:
With ticket in hand, mount the stairs from the below-street-level foyer to the ground floor of the museum, which features exhibits related to the first owner. The house itself has been beautifully renovated, so you feel like you’re not only checking out an awesome collection from the Golden Age of Flemish masterpieces, but also getting an idea of what a 17th-century Dutch mansion looked like inside.
Interior of the Mauritshuis Museum in The Hague
You then begin a joyful stroll through a world-class collection featuring some of the best of Dutch painting from the 16th and 17th centuries.
Here are some of my favorite pieces.
Still Life with Cheeses, Almonds and Pretzels by Clara Peeters
Still Life with Cheeses, Almonds and Pretzels, Clara Peeters, c. 1615
I’ve recently discovered the work of Flemish artist Clara Peeters, and I am smitten. She takes the still life genre to a whole new level with her stunning depictions of objects and food. From Antwerp, Peeters is one of the best-known female Flemish artists working professionally in the 17th century. She was well known for the depictions of still-life paintings with food.
The Mauritshuis exhibits at least two of her paintings. This one features bread and cheese, pretzels and almonds rendered with a precision and warmth that is mind boggling. And if you look really, really closely at the pewter rim of the jug, you’ll see a reflection of Clara’s face. How cool is that?
Check out the cracks in the large slab of cheese that dominates the picture and marvel at how she depicts the shine on the glass goblet. There is an elegance to Peeters’ work that is rare, even among the many still life painters of the period.
In a room full of other still life paintings, her work stands out by a mile.
Homer Dictating his Verses by Rembrandt
Homer Dictating his Verses, Rembrandt, 1663
One entire room in the Mauritshuis is dedicated to displaying the work of Rembrandt, probably the most famous Dutch painter from the period. I was drawn to this painting as an excellent example of how Rembrandt excelled in the depiction of light and shadow.
The expression on Homer’s face is almost desperate, as if he knows he’s on his last legs and wants to dictate his stories before it’s too late. The way paint is so thickly applied to depict the folds and furrows of his face is almost modern. I’m strangely reminded of the work of Lucien Freud.
The room also features the large painting entitled Anatomy Lessons of Dr. Nicolaes, which is quite a bit more famous than the Homer one judging by the tour groups clustered in front of it.
The Mauritshuis is home to one of the most famous paintings from the Dutch Golden Age: Girl With a Pearl Earring by Johannes Vermeer. She is undoubtedly the star of the show, and no wonder.
According to the Mauritshuis website, the painting is not a portrait, but a ‘tronie’, which is a painting of an imaginary figure or certain type of character. The girl is dressed exotically and wears a large (probably too large?) pearl in her ear. She looks over her shoulder at us, alluring and innocent at the same time.
I’ve been a Vermeer fan for years. He has quite the knack for capturing a moment in time that is poignant and also celebratory of the ordinary.
I’ve seen pictures of Girl with a Pearl Earring for decades (and read Tracey Chevalier’s marvelous novel) and wondered if seeing the real thing would be worth the trek to The Hague.
The answer? Absolutely! The “real thing” glows with a kind of internal power that cannot be duplicated. The color is more intense and yet more subtle than any reproduction. No wonder it’s mobbed!
Man Offering Money to a Young Woman by Judith Leyster
Man Offering Money to a Young Woman, Judith Leyster, 1631
Judith Leyster is another female artist from the period who is finally gaining the renown she deserves. The man is trying to buy her attention, but the woman works on, oblivious to his charms as she concentrates solely on her work.
The broad brushstrokes used by Leyster are very like those used by her most famous compatriot, Franz Hals. There is a looseness to her work that feels almost modern and very alive.
Kitchen Interior by David Teniers the Younger
Kitchen Interior by David Teniers the Younger, 1644
Some of my favorite paintings in the Mauritshuis are those depicting everyday life during the period. As an historical novelist, I really value these paintings as source material that give me a glimpse into what life was like back in the day.
This kitchen scene is replete with cool details, from the dead hare below the swan, the bowl of fruit, the mom looking exhausted as she peels apples, the boy holding the plate to receive the peeled apples and the dog in the middle of it all.
The various foods in the painting represent the four elements: the fish in the bottom right for water, the roasts in the background for fire, the game below the swan pie for earth, and the birds hanging above the woman for air.
Other Works in the Mauristhuis
Several other very famous works are included in the collection, including works by still life artist Rachael Ruysch (another one of my faves), Franz Hals, Peter Paul Rubens, and Jacob van Ruisdael, to name just a few.
You’ll also find The Goldfinch by Carel Fabritius.
As mentioned, one of the best things about this lovely gem of a museum is its compact size. While it’s chock-a-block full of great art, it doesn’t feel overwhelming. The rooms are small, the crowds very manageable, and there’s enough variety and famous images to keep you thoroughly engaged.
M. C. Escher in the Palace
Escher in the Palace is the second must-see museum in the Hague, especially for fans of the work of Maurits Corenlis Escher (AKA M. C. Escher), a 20th century master of perspective and illusion.
Never heard of Escher? Go the museum anyway! It’s very safe to say that anyone even remotely interested in art will be captivated by both the palace and its extensive collection of work by M. C. Escher.
It’s also a great place for kids, with some interactive displays and artwork that is sure to fascinate young minds.
Overview of Escher in The Palace
Housed in the former palace of Queen Emma, the Queen Mother to Queen Wilhelmina, the museum is really a two-for-the-price-of-one attraction. Not only do you tour several rooms on three floors filled with Escher’s works, but you also get an insight into opulent royal life. On the Escher in the Palace website, you can take a virtual tour of the museum.
M. C. Escher’s works give new meaning to the term “optical illusion”. They are astonishing and very well known. You’re likely to have seen such masterpieces as Belvedere and Hand with Reflecting Sphere (see below), both of which have been extensively reproduced.
If you went to college in the 1970s or 1980s, you probably saw Escher prints on a dorm wall or two.
Getting Tickets for Escher in the Palace
You shouldn’t have any trouble just walking into the palace and purchasing tickets, but if you like to plan ahead, here’s an option from GetYourGuide:
Following is an overview of a few of my favorite works in the collection. These are just the tip of the iceberg. You’ll find over 120 Escher prints in Escher in the Palace, enough to keep you fascinated for a good hour or more.
Belvedere
Belvedere, lithograph by M. C. Escher, 1958
I once made the mistake of buying a jigsaw puzzle of this piece. It did not go well. Although the image looks like it would be easy to put together, it was not. I ended up doing something I almost never do: abandoning the puzzle and then giving it away.
Belvedere is one of the most famous examples of an Escher work showing a three-dimensional building that is drawn on a flat surface but cannot exist in real life. As you look at it, you’re challenged to figure out what is possible and what is not. You could spend a lot of time looking at this image and trying to trace your way up or down a staircase. Good luck!
Convex and Concave
Convex and Concave, lithograph by M. C. Escher, 1955
Here’s another eye twister that will keep you up at night. The image is Escher’s depiction of daily life in a Mediterranean town (never seen a town like this!).
On the left side, you look down on the life and on the right, you look up from below. It’s an impossible space, but it’s really hard to stop looking at it and trying to trace a way through.
Lizards
Regular division drawing with lizards, no. 25 by M. C. Escher, 1939
While I love Escher’s weird scenes and buildings, it’s Escher’s drawings of critters (particularly lizards) that really intrigue me. I could look at them for hours. The precision with which he renders the lizards and the way they overlap and interact is astonishing. You’ll also find plenty of other animal drawings, particularly of birds and insects.
Metamorphosis
Don’t miss the rooms containing some of Escher’s famous metamorphosis works. In these, Escher created a series of changing shapes, using many of his favorite forms such as reptiles, fish, insects, and birds.
A highlight is this large round piece in the center of one of the rooms. Walk around and around it to get the full effect and marvel at how Escher makes the transitions between forms so that you barely realize there is a transition until suddenly you’re looking at a fish when moments before you were looking at a horse.
Remarkable!
Large Metamorphosis piece by M. C. Escher
After you’ve toured Escher in the Palace, stop into the stylish gift shop. The attendants there were really friendly and helpful. I bought a gorgeous cashmere scarf, which I needed in the chilly April air. Note that the Netherlands is not particularly warm in the spring!
Staying in the Hague
I suggest staying in the city centre as close to the two museums as possible. I stayed at the Boutique Hotel Corona which was in an excellent location, although the room was a bit on the small side.
Other Attractions in the Hague
If you’re traveling with children, I highly recommend you go to Madurodam. I first visited way back in 1970s on my epic trip to Europe with my mom. We spent hours wandering around the miniature worlds. In the 1990s, I returned with my then-eight-year-old daughter who adored the place. The park has grown a lot since then with plenty of attractions to keep you engaged.
Here are a few tour options in The Hague from GetYourGuide:
One of the many joys of traveling is discovering new-to-you museums, particularly artsy ones!
While world class must-see museums such as the Louvre and the Rijksmuseum are awesome, they can also be very crowded and a tad overwhelming. You can’t see more than a fraction of the collection in any one visit.
A small, specialty museum is a different story. Usually, the museum won’t be crowded, and if there are attendants, you may be able to engage them in conversation about the collection. On a visit to the Keats-Shelley house in Rome last year, I had a great chat with the attendant about some of my favorite Romantic literary figures.
In this collaboration post, I bring together experiences submitted by 13 fellow travelers and bloggers, including myself, in the first post about the Basque and Bayonne History Museum in Bayonne, France.
You’re sure to find a museum to put on your next itinerary! I know I already have.
#1 Bayonne, France: Basque and Bayonne History Museum
The Basque people have long fascinated me, so I was delighted to discover the Basque and Bayonne History Museum in Bayonne, France.
Thoughtful exhibits chronicling the history of the Basque people in France span three floors and twenty rooms. Multiple aspects of Basque culture are featured, including its origins and language, funeral rites, rural life and architecture, domestic life and crafts, maritime and river activities, festivals and games, and regional history.
I particularly enjoyed the many old films of Basque people from over 100 years ago. One featured the haunting sounds of mountain people calling across valleys.
The collection is the richest in France solely devoted to social life in the Northern Basque Country. It’s housed in theMaison Dagourette, a 17th-century port residence. If you’re visiting Bayonne, I highly recommend taking the time to tour this museum and learn about one of Europe’s most intriguing and oldest cultures.
The Basque and Bayonne History museum is located at 37 quai des Corsaires in Bayonne in southwest France and is open year-round, from Tuesday to Sunday. Check the website for details.
As wine lovers, a visit to the Wine Museum was one of the best things we did during our Santorini trip. The museum is located 5 km from the island’s capital, Fira, and you can visit it independently or as part of a wine tour, which we did. The museum is set in a traditional cave house which was once part of a family winery, which really adds to the unique experience!
The whole place is dedicated to showcasing the island’s rich wine-making tradition which dates back thousands of years.
The museum displays ancient wine-making tools, artifacts, and exhibits that detail the process of making wine from antiquity to the present day.
The best part of our visit was the wine-tasting itself. It took place in an elegant cellar. You can choose between five different packages that also include snacks such as homemade bread and cheese. The tickets start at €25 per person. Each wine you taste comes with a detailed explanation so you can learn about Santorini wine while tasting it.
In Glasgow, St Mungo Museum of Religious Life and Art is situated in picturesque Cathedral Square, right next to the historic Glasgow Cathedral. This museum is conveniently included in the Glasgow Hop On Hop Off Bus Tour, with the stunning Glasgow Cathedral being the second stop on the route, making it an easy addition to your sightseeing itinerary.
The museum’s collection features an impressive array of artifacts, ranging from ancient Egyptian relics to contemporary pieces, providing visitors with a rich understanding of the universal human quest for spirituality.
Entry to St Mungo Museum is free, and it stands out as one of the few museums worldwide dedicated exclusively to this fascinating subject.
After you’ve taken the time to explore the museum’s intriguing exhibits, consider treating yourself to a meal at the nearby Italian eatery, Celentano’s. This charming restaurant is located in the historic part of Glasgow, just a stone’s throw away from both the Glasgow Cathedral and the St Mungo Museum.
Where to Stay in Glasgow
Maldron Hotel Glasgow City or if you’re looking for a longer stay, you can also book a room at Celentano’s, allowing you to fully immerse yourself in the rich culture and history of Glasgow.
Named one of the best museums to visit in Europe by The Guardian, Warsaw’s Neon Museum boasts hundreds of neon signs that tell the story of Poland post-WWII. What at first just seem to be functional objects are in reality pieces of art by themselves. The atmosphere of darkness and light in the museum creates an experience like no other.
This is not only an unusual museum but it’s also one that made such an impact on me that ever since I visited it I keep spotting neon signs wherever I travel in the world!
The museum opens daily from 12:00 to 18:00 and is closed on Tuesdays. The entry ticket is about €4. To visit it, you can walk about 40 minutes from the Old Town or take the 26 tram from the Royal Castle.
The area around the Neon Museum has several trendy cafes as nearby there’s also a university campus and the Soho Art Center.
I recommend you stay in one of the many traditional apartments in the old town of Warsaw for a more authentic experience.
Amsterdam is a great destination for cat lovers, with many resident cats, a cat café, a floating cat shelter and the KattenKabinet, a museum entirely dedicated to art featuring cats.
Taking up four rooms on the second floor of a beautiful canal house (plus the garden), the KattenKabinet is crammed full of cat paintings, sketches, advertisements, sculptures and more. Some of the most unique items on display include an original costume from the musical Cats, a pinball machine made of Lucky Cat figures and a mummified cat from around 200 BC. There are even original pieces by Picasso and Rembrandt.
While the museum is small, the items on display are unique and quirky. The gift shop is also well worth checking out.
See more photos here, including some shots of the real-life resident cats who often wander around the museum as well. Just be warned – don’t try to pet the black and white cat as he doesn’t appreciate it!
The KattenKabinet is located at Herengracht 497, a short walk from Rembrandtplein. Tickets cost €12.50 for adults, but there is a discount for those using the I Amsterdam City Card, as well as discounts for seniors and students.
For dining near the KattenKabinet, I recommend checking out Lion Noir, which is one street over. No real cats here, unfortunately, but they do serve delicious contemporary French cuisine in a beautiful space and hey, lions are cats too!
Where to Stay in Amsterdam
Clayton Hotel Amsterdam American or to keep the cat theme going you could stay at nearby Hotel Estherea (it’s close enough to walk to the KattenKabinet from the hotel), a stunning hotel in a 17th-century canal house which is also home to three resident cats who like to hang out in the common areas.
#6 Lisbon, Portugal: The National Tile Museum (Museu Nacional do Azulejo)
The National Tile Museum (Museu Nacional do Azulejo) in Lisbon is dedicated to showcasing the art of traditional Portuguese tilework, known as azulejos.
Housed in the former Convent of Madre de Deus, the museum guides visitors through the history of Portuguese tiles, from the 15th century to contemporary designs. The exhibits feature stunning displays of decorative tiles in various shapes, sizes, and styles, including religious scenes, historical narratives, and intricate geometric patterns.
One of the standout pieces is a large, panoramic tile panel depicting Lisbon before the 1755 earthquake. This classic blue and white Grand Panorama of Lisbon measures nearly 23 meters and portrays the city along a 14-kilometer stretch of coastline.
The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions, workshops, and a café in a beautiful cloistered courtyard. Anyone with an interest in Portugal’s cultural history will enjoy visiting this museum. Creative souls will want to prioritize the museum on their Lisbon itinerary, as they will find plenty of inspiration for future projects.
The Tile Museum is located at Rua Me, Deus 4 in the Xabregas district. The hours are Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM (closed on Mondays) and the entry fee is €5 (free with Lisboa Card). Check their website for more information.
Recommended Restaurant: Soul Kitchen & Bar, known for its beautiful tapas-style dishes that include creative interpretations of Angolan and Cabo Verdean cuisine.
Escher in the Palace is perhaps one of the most unique art museums in the Netherlands. Housed in a former royal palace in The Hague, it exhibits an extensive collection of M. C. Escher’s masterpieces. So, basically you are visiting two sites in one.
The Queen Mother, Queen Emma (1858-1934) used to live in this palace, which then was called Lange Voorhout Palace and was her winter residence. Queen Emma is the great-great-grandmother of Willem-Alexander, the current King of the Netherlands.
Since 2002 the Palace has housed a permanent exhibition about the life and work of the extraordinary Dutch artist M. C. Escher (1898-1972). Escher was inspired by mathematics and the tessellations in Alhambra (Granada) and La Mezquita (Cordoba). He explored infinity, symmetry, perspective, and impossible objects in his art. Today, there are about 120 works of Escher exhibited in the Palace.
After visiting the palace and the exhibitions, stop for a piece of cake and a cup of coffee at the museum’s café which is housed in the Palace’s original kitchen. The setting is unique.
The Museum is located the city centre. It’s very close to other attractions in The Hague, like the Mauritshuis and Binnenhof, and the Central Train Station. In 2025, the entry ticket for the museum is €13,50 EUR.
Where to Stay in The Hague
Talking about palaces, when visiting The Hague, why not stay in a former palace? Just across from the Museum is the emblematic Hotel des Indes, the former palace of Baron van Brienen. Prices start at about €250 per night. or try the Riva Hotel The Hague.
When it comes to under-the-touristy-radar locations, Schloss Ambras in Innsbruck, Austria ranks at the top of the list. I was glad I decided to visit the Schloss Ambras, a Renaissance castle complex where the fascinating collections date back to the 1560s and tell tales of centuries-old history, politics, culture, and art.
Today, the Ambras Castle Museum is proud to preserve the original armour suits that are more than 450 years old. You will also get to see a thousand miniature portraits dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries.
There is a late medieval sculpture made of pear wood, which is a highlight of the collection. I was amazed by the artworks that adorn the Spanish Hall. With so many interesting things on display, Schloss Ambras deserves a spot on your Austria itinerary.
Ambras Castle is open every day from 10 am to 5 pm and is closed only in November. The ticket price is € 14 for adults and €12 for students and seniors. You can check the season opening and closing times along with detailed ticket prices here.
Where to Stay in Innsbruck
Consider staying at Hotel Bierwirt, only 10 minutes away from Schloss Ambras. I loved the laid-back vibes and delicious food at Café-Restaurant Martin. Another choice is Altstadthotel Weisses Kreuz.
#9 Mougins, France – Femmes Artistes Musee Mougins
The FAMM (Femmes Artistes Musée Mougins) opened in June 2024 in the French Riviera village of Mougins, becoming Europe’s first art museum dedicated entirely to female artists. With around 100 works by 90 accomplished talents from around the world, this museum encompasses four floors of a building that previously was the Mougins Museum of Classical Art.
Wandering into the first gallery, you’ll immediately be surrounded by the soft brush strokes of Impressionism, including paintings by Berthe Morisot, Eva Gonzalès, and Monet – Blanche Hoschedé-Monet, that is. Despite being the step-daughter and eventual daughter-in-law of the Impressionist master Claude Monet, Blanche’s 300 works are rarely displayed publicly.
Continue through each floor of the museum to observe the galleries transition in succession to highlight female artists from various 20th-century modern art eras, like Frida Kahlo and Leonora Carrington who are associated with Surrealism.
You’ll also notice a collection of large floor-to-ceiling canvases displaying both harmonious and dissonant abstract works by artists like Joan Mitchell and Alma Thomas.
Located along the medieval streets of Old Town Mougins, the FAMM is easy to visit during any day trip from nearby cities like Nice, Cannes, or Antibes. Don’t miss a storied gastronomical legacy featuring Michelin-recommended restaurants like Bohème.
The FAMM is open every day and admission costs €16 per adult.
While Barcelona offers some well-known museums such as the Picasso Museum, Moco Museum is more of a hidden gem in Barcelona. Yet, it’s very worth seeing.
There, you can find Pop Culture art with interesting pieces of Andy Warhol, as well as some Banksy artworks.
Especially because it is not as huge as other art museums, you can take your time and still be able to marvel at all of it.
It is located close to Barcelona’s center in Carrer de Montcada 25.
Ticket prices vary depending on your selected time of entry. Morning tickets (entry slot between 10:00 a.m. and 10:45 a.m.) and evening tickets (entry between 6:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m.) are a bit cheaper at €13.95. The rest of the day an adult ticket is €16.95.
Close by you can find a lovely tapas bar called Bubita Sangria Bar serving vegan tapas, paella and different types of sangria to enjoy.
So when you travel to Barcelona, don’t miss this unique art museum.
The Fondation Beyeler in Riehen, near Basel, is a must-visit for art lovers. Housing the exceptional collection of Hildy and Ernst Beyeler, it showcases around 300 masterpieces from Classic Modernism and beyond, spanning the 20th and 21st centuries.
You’ll encounter works by renowned artists like Picasso, Monet, Rothko, and Warhol displayed within a stunning space designed by Pritzker-winning architect Renzo Piano. The museum seamlessly blends art, architecture, and nature, nestled amidst tranquil gardens and a serene pond.
To make the most of your visit, plan your trip using public transportation as parking is limited.
The museum, located at Baselstrasse 101, 4125 Riehen, is open every day of the year. Tickets cost 30 CHF (Swiss francs) for adults, or 15 CHF if you have a BaselCard. Allow yourself a few hours to truly immerse yourself in the art and perhaps enjoy a moment of reflection in the surrounding landscape.
If you’re a history lover like me, a visit to the Bunk’Art 2 museum is one of the best things to do in Tirana. Situated in a former nuclear bunker, this museum offers an immersive experience that takes you deep into Albania’s communist past.
During my visit, I was captivated by the exhibits that combine historical artifacts, photographs, and multimedia displays to tell the complex story of life under Albania’s regime. Some parts of the museum, like the interrogation room and displays of torture methods, are intense, but they provide a raw and powerful look at Albania’s turbulent history.
You can expect to see a variety of exhibits that highlight the country’s social, political, and cultural landscape during the communist era.
When planning your visit, Bunk’Art 2 is open daily from 9:40 am to 8:00 pm. Tickets cost LEK 500 for standard entry or LEK 700 if you’d like to include an audio tour. I recommend setting aside 1.5 to 2 hours to fully explore the museum. You can find more information on their website.
Where to Stay in Tirana
If you’re looking for somewhere to stay nearby, I suggest the Xheko Imperial Hotel, just a 15-minute walk away. This luxurious hotel offers a comfortable stay with modern amenities and a welcoming atmosphere.
#13 Seville, Spain: Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo (CAAC)
Housed in the vast, atmospheric grounds of a former monastery and ceramics factory, Seville’s premier modern art gallery is as much about the space as it is the art within.
Focused on Andalusian artists, such as Luis Gordillo and Carmen Laffrón, CAAC’s collection also showcases works from Spanish and international artists. And with a full visit costing just €3, it’s very affordable.
But the real draw here is the building itself – a 15th-century monastery frequently visited by Christopher Columbus, which had a second life as a ceramics factory.
Cloisters and chapels now exhibit edgy, often experimental work. The contrast between the Christian architecture, the art, and traditional Sevillian 19th-century ceramics make it a unique gallery.
CAAC is in the Cartuja Island district of Seville, a little away from the main old town. It feels almost like a secret. We visited off-season and almost had the place to ourselves.
Just 15 minutes away is lively Triana, with excellent tapas bars. A personal favourite in the area is Bodeguita Albero. Visit CAAC’s website for more information.
Have you found some new museums to explore? I hope so! And if you’ve visited some off-the-beaten path museums you think other artsy travelers may enjoy, please share in the comments.
Other posts about museums in Europe on Artsy Traveler:
If you’re looking for a family-friendly outing in Vancouver, carve out a few hours to visit the Vancouver Museum (AKA the Museum of Vancouver).
After getting a good hit of cultural history, walk the seawall or hop on the False Creek ferry to Granville Island for lunch and shopping.
At the Museum of Vancouver (MOV), you’ll discover the cultural history of the city. A series of exhibits take you on a journey past hundreds of artifacts used by individuals and communities that have called the area home.
Take a food tour of Granville Island Public Market
Introduction
I’ve lived in Vancouver all my life. I remember when the Museum of Vancouver was built in 1968. I also remember when, in 1979, Granville Island was transformed from an industrial wasteland to a major Vancouver tourist attraction.
On a recent bright and sunny January day, I joined the throngs of Vancouverites who emerge when the sun shines and headed for Kitsilano. This laid-back residential area is one of Vancouver’s most beautiful with its huge saltwater pool and mountain views from Kitsilano Beach.
Here, I toured the Museum of Vancouver and then rode the False Creek ferry to Granville Island for lunch and shopping.
The spectacular views of this area of Vancouver never get old.
Whether you’re a local or a visitor, make time to visit the Vancouver Museum. Then, get yourself over to bustling Granville Island, an especially enjoyable outing on a sunny day.
Locations
The Museum of Vancouver (#1) is located at 1100 Chestnut Street in Vanier Park (#2) in Vancouver’s Kitsilano neighborhood. It is within the unceded territory of the Musqueam, Squamish, and Tsleil-Waututh Nations.
Vanier Park occupies most of Kitsilano Point and overlooks stunning views of the mountains, the ocean and False Creek. Downtown Vancouver is about a fifteen-minute bus or car ride away.
Granville Island is located about a 20-minute walk from Vanier Park under the Granville Street Bridge at the edge of False Creek. For decades, the area was a polluted blight on the Vancouver skyline.
After its extensive makeover starting in 1979, Granville Island now teems with shops and activities, including a great area for children and the world-famous Granville Island Public Market (#3).
Stroll along the seawall or take the False Creek ferry to Granville Island for lunch.
Return to the area to enjoy a matinée at Bard on the Beach (#4), a five-minute walk from the MOV.
History of the Museum of Vancouver
Originally located in downtown Vancouver, the museum was founded in 1894 by a group of art and history enthusiasts who amassed a collection of artifacts and donations from local citizens.
In 1968, the building where the museum is now housed was erected in Vanier Park. The MOV shares its iconic building with the Vancouver Planetarium and the H.R. Macmillan Space Centre. The distinctive dome is meant to resemble the woven basket hats made by Northwest Coast First Nations peoples.
Initially called the Centennial Museum and then the Vancouver Museum, the new building was renamed the Museum of Vancouver in 2009 and the museum positioned as the place to go to learn about Vancouver’s cultural history.
I first visited the MOA not long after it opened in 1968 and have continued to revisit every decade or so, sometimes to take in a special exhibition, or to enjoy the fascinating permanent collection. I always find something new to look at and learn.
Explore the Galleries
The MOV is Vancouver’s largest civic museum and features several history galleries, starting with galleries dedicated to the First Nations people who lived on this bountiful land for centuries before contact with people from other parts of the world, primarily Europe and Asia.
The City Before the City: c̓əsnaʔəm
The first gallery contains The City Before the City exhibition that features c̓əsnaʔəm, the ancestral village of the Musqueam First Nation. On display are bone, stone, and shell objects from c̓əsnaʔəm that have survived for thousands of years.
The exhibition is both respectful and informative, with the aim of educating visitors about the people who inhabited the land before it was transformed by the streets and buildings we see today.
Listening stations encourage visitors to slow down, don a pair of headphones, and then watch and listen to videos narrated by First Nations people about their history and the exhibits.
That Which Sustains Us
The focus of the That Which Sustain Us gallery is on the land itself and how interactions with it are shaped by culture. You’ll learn about traditional ecological knowledge in addition to the consequences of deforestation and the urbanization of Vancouver.
I particularly enjoyed the exhibits showcasing ancestral skills such as making leather from tanning fish skin and creating dye pigments from the mushrooms found in local forests.
Also included is this wall showing words from the Musqueam language.
1900s to 1920s: Gateway to the Pacific
I’m a third-generation Vancouverite, with both sets of grandparents settling in Vancouver around 1911, coincidentally a few blocks apart. My maternal grandmother remembers carrying water to their log cabin, and I grew up on stories about the expanding city.
The Gateway to the Pacific gallery features thoughtfully curated displays related to the lives of the early settlers, both European and Asian. Photographs, mannequins dressed in vintage clothing, and an impressive collection of objects bring the era to life.
Other displays relate to Vancouver during World War I. My maternal great-grandfather, who was originally from England, left Vancouver in 1914 to fight overseas and was killed in 1916 when my grandmother was just 10 years old.
1930s to 1940s: Boom, Bust, and War
The exhibits in this gallery chronicle the growth of Vancouver through difficult times culminating in World War II.
A dark stain on the city’s history was the internment of people from the well-established Japanese-Canadian community following the bombing of Pearl Harbor. I know people whose grandparents and parents were relocated to internment camps in the interior of British Columbia. My mother, who lived not far from one of the internment camps in the early 1940s, remembered seeing the displaced people.
My mother moved to Vancouver in 1942 when my grandfather got work in one of the many new factories gearing up production for the war effort, and met my dad in high school. I remember my grandmother’s kitchen looking very similar to this one:
1950s: The ‘50s Gallery
For many of the people who settled in Vancouver, the post-war city was a hopeful place where home ownership was within reach. That was certainly the case for my family. We moved into our first house in the Kerrisdale neighborhood of Vancouver in 1960.
The exhibits in this gallery bring back fuzzy memories. I got a kick out of the old wringer washer which reminded me of my brother trying to put my Barbie doll through the wringer. He was not successful, as I recall.
Check out the display of neon signs. Vancouver was famous for its neon, mostly clustered along Granville Street. The full-size car is a nice touch.
1960s – 1970s: You Say You Want a Revolution
If you were born prior to the 1970s, you’ll experience a major walk down memory lane in this gallery. And even if you’re not from Vancouver, you’ll likely recognize something of your past in the exhibits.
As in many places in North America, the 1960s and 1970s in Vancouver were a time of contention. The city was growing fast, with protests, “hippies”, and alternative lifestyles front and center. The environmental group Greenpeace started in Vancouver during this period.
A highlight of this fun yet also thought-provoking gallery was seeing a poster with my husband’s name on it. Gregg Simpson was very active in the art scene during the late 1960s and early 1970s, both as an artist and a musician.
I spent quite a bit of time squinting at the many old photographs in the exhibit to catch a glimpse of him. We weren’t successful, but I did see many familiar names in the old posters and commentaries.
Completing Your Visit
The MOA is not a large museum. You can tour it in about an hour, depending on how long you like to spend reading the wealth of information provided.
After your visit, consider taking one of the adorable False Creek ferries to Granville Island.
MOV Practical Information
Getting There
If you’re visiting Vancouver and staying downtown without a car, your best option is to either take the #2 bus or rent a bicycle (weather permitting). Here are all your options:
Take the Bus
The museum is about a five-minute walk from Cornwall Avenue where the #2 bus stops. Plan your route on Translink.
Take the False Creek Ferry
From various points around False Creek, catch a ferry that stops at the Vancouver Maritime Museum (#5). Then, walk south-east for about five minutes to the museum entrance. If you’re planning on more explorations, consider buying a day pass for the False Creek ferry in advance.
Ride a Bike
Use the Mobi Bike Share service to cycle to Vanier Park. The bike share is located at Chestnut Street and McNicoll Avenue, just west of the MOA.
Walk from Granville Island
Walk west along the seawall for about 15 minutes. Note that in the winter months, the seawall may be closed for maintenance. If that’s the case, retrace your steps and take the ferry.
Drive
From downtown Vancouver:
Cross the Burrard Street bridge heading south.
Veer right onto Cornwall Street as you come off the bridge.
Turn right onto Chestnut Street (this will be the first street).
Turn right onto Whyte Avenue.
Turn left into the parking lot.
From the south:
Take Burrard Street going north.
Turn left onto Cornwall Street just before the Burrard Street Bridge.
Turn right onto Whyte Avenue.
Turn left into the parking lot.
Museum Hours and Ticket Prices
The MOV is open 7 days a week from 10 am to 5 pm. Admission costs $17 for adults, $12 for seniors and students, and $10 for youth ages 6 to 17. Children under five and individuals who self-identify as Indigenous enter for free.
For more information, check the Museum’s FAQ page.
Taking the Ferry to Granville Island
Nineteen little ferries ply the waters of False Creek, stopping at the places shown on the map below. The stop for the Museum of Vancouver is Maritime Museum (Kitsilano Beach).
For a round-trip cost of $10 for adults and $7 for seniors/children, you can take the ferry to Granville Island where you’ll find an excellent indoor market, restaurants, food stalls, and lots of fabulous shops.
I pretty much always find something to buy whenever I visit. On my most recent trip to Granville Island, I couldn’t resist purchasing a gorgeous red leather purse inset with a First Nations design of a raven.
Rates vary depending upon the route and the number of zones covered. If you choose, you can sail all the way to Science World at the easternmost end of False Creek. Check the rates.
The ferries scoot back and forth across False Creek and are a lot of fun to ride:
Catch the ferry from the dock below the Vancouver Maritime Museum, which is about a five-minute walk to the west of the Vancouver Museum.
Buy a return ticket on the ferry (they take credit cards) if you’re parked at the museum, or get a one-way ticket and then take a bus back to your home or accommodation. You can also purchase a day pass and explore more of False Creek.
Granville Island
The Granville Island Public Market is the main attraction on Granville Island. Here, you’ll find a dizzying array of produce, seafood, bakery items, gourmet edibles, gift items, and flowers. Lunch options also abound from food stalls serving up everything from perogies to poke.
Pro Tip: Treat yourself to a cannelle at Le Bise Bakery. They are seriously to die for.
Take your food outside and enjoy it while gazing out at the boats plying the waters of False Creek with the skyline of Vancouver and the mountains beyond. Here’s one of my favorite views towards the Burrard Street Bridge:
Shopping on Granville Island
After lunch, wander around the many shops on the island or even take in a performance at the Vancouver Arts Club Theatre next door to the market.
If you want more than a quick bite at the market, consider stopping in at the Tap & Barrel – Bridges Restaurant or the Dockside Restaurant. Both offer scenic views of the mountains and water and plenty of seafood options.
Other Vancouver Museums
Here’s a quick roundup of three other Vancouver museums worth visiting.
Museum of Anthropology
If you really want to dig into Indigenous history, head out to the Museum of Anthropology (#6) at the University of British Columbia, arguably the best museum in Vancouver. You’ll discover a comprehensive collection not only of indigenous art from BC, but also from across Canada and around the world.
Science World
If you have children (or even if you don’t but just like science!), then Science World (#7) should definitely be on your itinerary. Tons of hands-on interactive exhibits, cool science shows, and world-class feature exhibitions will keep you entertained and informed.
Bill Reid Gallery of Northwest Coast Art
If you’ve visited the Museum of Anthropology, then you’ll have already seen some of Bill Reid’s magnificent work.
The Bill Reid Gallery of Northwest Coast Art (#8) in downtown Vancouver exhibits the Bill Reid SFU Art Collection in addition to contemporary Indigenous Northwest Coast Art.
Where to Stay in Vancouver
Visitors to Vancouver are spoiled for choice when it comes to accommodations. Be warned, however, that prices are steep, especially for downtown hotels with views of the magnificent North Shore mountains and the ocean. Here are two of my favorite hotels in Vancouver:
Granville Island Hotel
The Granville Island Hotel (#9) is the closest hotel to the Museum of Vancouver and the Granville Island Public Market. It’s a great choice that’s a bit off the beaten track from downtown Vancouver.
Sutton Place Hotel
Located on Burrard Street (and so an easy bus ride over the Burrard Street Bridge to the Museum of Vancouver) and around the corner from plenty of good shops and restaurants on Robson Street, the Sutton Place Hotel (#10) is one of the more reasonable options in Vancouver with comfy 4-star rooms.
Vancouver Tours
GetYourGuide offers a few tours that include Granville Island. Here’s a foodie tour of Granville Island Public Market.
And here are more options for touring Vancouver. Why not really splurge and take a seaplane flight over the city? On a clear day, the views are amazing.
The Museum of Vancouver is worth a visit if you enjoy cultural history (which I do!).
The location of the museum is also a major plus. After you’ve toured the museum, you’ll enjoy breezy views of the ocean and mountains and perhaps take a ride on one of the little False Creek ferries.
Have you visited the Museum of Vancouver? What were your favorite galleries? Share your recommendations and observations in the Comments below.
Here are more posts about museums I’ve visited and heartily recommend:
The Museum of Anthropology at the University of British Columbia (UBC) is the must-see museum in my hometown of Vancouver.
While I was on an Alaskan cruise a few years back, several visitors asked me what they should see during their one day in Vancouver. I always said the anthropology museum and always received a blank stare.
Regrettably, this world-class museum is not as well known as it deserves to be. Usually, when people talk about what tourists should see in Vancouver, they say the Capilano Suspension Bridge (crowded and way over-priced), the Vancouver Art Gallery (okay), and Stanley Park (a definite yes).
But a trip out to UBC to tour the Museum of Anthropology (MOA) is an absolute must. MOA houses an unparalleled collection of northwest coast Indigenous art and artifacts, along with exquisite exhibits of objects from cultures all over the world.
Overview
In this post, I share my recommendations for enjoying your visit to the UBC Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver, BC. I’ve also included practical information, such as hours, admission fees, and how to get there. Finally, check out what else you can see at the University of British Columbia and my suggested hotels in downtown Vancouver.
Where is the Museum of Anthropology (MOA)?
Designed by famed Canadian architect Arthur Erickson, the Museum of Anthropology (also known as MOA) is located on the campus of the University of British Columbia at the very tip of Point Grey, a peninsula that juts into the Strait of Georgia west of Vancouver’s downtown core. See #1 on the map below.
After being closed for a few years for seismic upgrading, MOA is again welcoming visitors.
Here’s the view of mountains and ocean that greets you from the rose garden on a hill above the museum.
The map below shows the location of the Museum of Anthropology (#1) along with other worthwhile sites at the University of British Columbia and recommended hotels in Vancouver.
After parking in the lot conveniently located just off NW Marine Drive and adjacent to the museum, you pass the MOA sign and a rock with a message in two languages reminding you that you are on the ancestral homeland of the Musqueam people.
I grew up close to this area and regrettably learned very little about the people who first lived here. In recent years, great strides are being made to redress the imbalances.
One such development is the increasing use of Indigenous names for landmarks that for 150 years were known by their “settler” names.
Entering the Museum of Anthropology
Enter the spacious lobby and buy your ticket. If you have a backpack or bag, you’ll need to store it in the lockers provided (they even give you a quarter to open a locker!).
And now, get ready for some serious awesomeness! Your first stop? Walk down a shallow ramp past exhibits of local First Nations art and into the Great Hall.
On your way, read the many informative plaques to learn about the displays. Their purpose is to educate visitors about why each object or artifact is significant to the culture and heritage of the First Nations people.
Here’s the description of the contemporary woven blanket displayed to your right as you walk down the ramp:
We dedicate this blanket to our mother Helen, our elders, and those who have gone before us. We look at this blanket as part of the tradition of education that was in place in our community for generations and is now being revived. Our ancestors speak through this weaving, through all of our weavings. In this way, they continue to share their knowledge with us.
The Great Hall
I’ve visited the Museum of Anthropology at UBC many times. But every time I walk into the Great Hall filled with one of the world’s most extensive collections of Indigenous art from the northwest coast, I feel an overwhelming sense of awe.
MOA does an excellent job of explaining the significance of each of the displays, with much of the information contributed by Indigenous artists who are carving totems and creating art today.
Stroll around this large space to get a feel for the awesomeness of the art and take time to read the explanatory plaques.
Here are some of the many totem poles that west coast First Nations people carved from cedar. Tilt your head back and marvel at the intricacy and beauty of the poles soaring to the rafters in this incredible space.
Sea-Lion House
It’s difficult to single out any one piece for more elaboration because every piece is accompanied by a fascinating story. The Sea-Lion House (Indigenous name Klix’Ken Gukwdzi) is particularly noteworthy.
According to the information provided, the First Nations community built the house in 1906 in defiance of the assimilation pressures imposed through the federal Indian Act.
This house was the last old-style dwelling erected in the village as a home for an extended family. It’s probably one of the last examples of traditional northwest coast architecture in the entire Pacific Northwest.
Colonialism and Indigenous People
The dramatic beauty of traditional northwest coast art on display at MOA is all the more remarkable considering that for decades, many of the cultural traditions of the First Nations people in British Columbia were banned.
Potlaches were outlawed, people were not permitted to wear their masks or dance or sing their traditional songs, and their languages were systematically wiped out.
In recent decades, the devastation wrought by these draconian laws is slowly being overcome. MOA’s curators and historians are doing an amazing job of putting together thoughtful and beautiful displays that celebrate the First Nations culture and do not shy away from painful truths about the colonial past.
European Ceramics Gallery
After marveling at the totems and other displays in the Great Hall, return to the entrance and head to the right to tour the Koerner Collection of European ceramics.
The feeling here is completely different but no less interesting. This extensive collection features ceramics displayed in a darkened room that every time I’ve visited has been virtually empty.
I enjoyed learning something about the history of ceramics and was fascinated by so many incredible examples of ceramic art, some dating back millennia.
These little guys are particularly adorable. They were made in the 18th century at the Holič factory in Hungary.
Multiversity Galleries
From the ceramics exhibition head back through the main hall and explore the museum’s multiversity galleries. MOA pioneered the use of open storage displays to exhibit their massive collection of objects from around the world.
These message greets you at the entrance to the Multiversity Galleries:
Enter here to meet creative expressions from around the globe. The galleries are laid out like a map of the world, joined by oceans and rivers. Pull open the drawers. Look up more information at the computer stations. Experience how connecting objects and people can bring the collection to life.
Here’s a portion of the South Pacific collection.
Northwest Coast First Nations Art and Objects
Don’t miss the collection of Pacific Northwest objects and art created by the area’s First Nations people. It is by far the largest collection in the galleries and features impressive displays of sculptures, masks, baskets, hats, textiles, and much more—some historical, some contemporary.
This massive Raven mask has been passed down for generations and, like all the exhibits in the First Nations collection, holds both artistic and spiritual significance along with precious knowledge for the communities that used it in ceremonies.
World Cultures
MOA features an impressive collection of thousands of ethnographic objects and artifacts from around the world. You’ll see magnificent objects from the Americas, Africa, Asia, and Oceania along with thoughtful and comprehensive descriptions.
Here are just a few examples of the breadth and astonishing variety of the collection the museum features.
Take your time to really look at these incredible objects. You could easily spend hours. And don’t forget to open the drawers! You never know what you’ll discover.
Works by Bill Reid
Acclaimed Haida artist Bill Reid is renowned for his sculptures and jewelry, several breathtaking examples of which are displayed in the museum.
The centerpiece is Bill Reid’s sculpture called The Raven and the First Men.
This stunning sculpture, made from a 4.5-ton cube of 106 laminated beams, took several years to complete. The museum acquired it in 1980.
Here is the legend of Raven and the First Humans as presented on MOA’s excellent website:
One day after the great flood Raven was walking along the beach at Rose spit in the Queen Charlotte Islands when he heard a sound emanating from a clamshell at his feet. He looked more closely and saw that the shell was full of small humans. He coaxed, cajoled and coerced them to come out and play in the wonderful new world. Some immediately scurried back into the shell, but eventually curiosity overcame caution, and they all clambered out. From these little dwellers came the original Haidas, the first humans.
Walk around the sculpture and be constantly enchanted by how it changes. This piece is a marvel.
Special Exhibitions
In addition to the three areas described in this post, MOA has areas devoted to special exhibitions. These vary throughout the year, so check the website to find out what’s on during your visit.
Tours of MOA
You can choose to take one of the free guided tours the museum offers with one of the new Cultural Interpreters. Learn about the collection from an Indigenous perspective and gain insight from Cultural Interpreters who have a personal connection to the belongings and treasures.
Tours last 45 to 60 minutes and are offered Tuesday to Thursday at 11 am, 1 pm and 3 pm, and Friday to Sunday at 1 pm and 3 pm.
Make sure to check the website to confirm the schedule.
Practical Information
The Museum of Anthropology is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 5 pm (Thursdays to 9 pm). It’s closed on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.
Museum admission currently costs $25 for adults, $22 for seniors (65+) and students, and $10 for youth. Children under 5, Indigenous people, UBC students, staff and faculty, and MOA members are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.
Museum Gift Shop
The museum’s small gift shop features with some pretty nice stuff, including plenty of examples of Indigenous art, jewelry and crafts, along with books and souvenirs.
Accessing the Museum of Anthropology from Downtown Vancouver
The Museum of Anthropology is located on the University of British Columbia campus, about 20 minutes from downtown Vancouver (#2 in the map at the beginning of this post). Here are some options for getting there from downtown Vancouver:
By Public Transit: Take the #4 UBC Bus from various downtown locations to the UBC Exchange or take the #99 B-Line bus to the UBC bus loop. From there, it’s about a ten-minute walk to MOA. Check the Translink website for routes, fares, and schedules.
From Vancouver International Airport (#3), take the Canada Line Skytrain to the Olympic Village station and then transfer to the #84 bus to UBC.
By Car: The museum is located at 6393 Northwest Marine Drive on the UBC campus. Ample parking is available at the museum, and parking fees are typically in line with campus parking rates.
Walking or Cycling: If you’re staying nearby, you can reach the museum on foot or by bicycle.
Other Attractions Near the Museum of Anthropology
If you have time to explore further, there are several other interesting attractions nearby.
Beaty Biodiversity Museum
Located a short walk from MOA, the Beaty Biodiversity Museum (#4) on the UBC campus is another excellent museum with exhibits showcasing the incredible biodiversity of our planet. Here are some pictures I took on a visit there.
You could spend hours browsing the extensive displays. With its wonderful collection of taxidermy animals, it’s a great place to take children.
UBC Botanical Garden
Another nearby gem is the UBC Botanical Garden (#5). Here, you can explore themed gardens, hiking trails, and a diverse collection of plant species from around the world. Established in 1916, the garden is Canada’s oldest university botanic garden.
I love going in the late spring and summer. Take your walking shoes; there’s a lot to see and it’s big!
Pacific Spirit Regional Park
For nature lovers, Pacific Spirit Regional Park (#6) offers extensive walking and hiking trails through lush forest, providing a peaceful retreat from the city. It’s a great spot for a post-museum stroll.
Nitobe Gardens
I adore Nitobe Gardens (#7) and pop in almost every time I visit the campus of the University of British Columbia. The gardens are a short walk from MOA so you can easily include it in your visit.
Considered one of the most authentic Japanese gardens outside of Japan, Nitobe Gardens is just gorgeous no matter what time of year you visit. But the best times are in spring when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom and again in the fall when the maple leaves are bright red.
Here are two photos taken in late spring.
Where to Stay in Vancouver
Vancouver is a major tourist destination for Canada-bound travelers, and as such has plenty of excellent hotels. Your best bet is to stay in a hotel downtown, preferably one with a view of the magnificent North Shore mountains and the ocean.
Here are my three favorite hotels in Vancouver:
Granville Island Hotel
Located on Granville Island about a ten-minute bus ride from downtown Vancouver, the Granville Island Hotel is a great choice if you’re looking something a little bit different.
You can stroll around the Granville Island Market and other shops, take in a performance at nearby Bard on the Beach or the Arts Club Theatre, and listen to the seagulls as you drift off to sleep.
Pan Pacific Vancouver
Pan Pacific Vancouver is one of Vancouver’s most iconic hotels with gorgeous views of the cruise ships and freighters in Burrard Inlet with the North Shore mountains beyond.
This hotel is upscale, expensive, and right in the center of the action. It’s a great choice if you’re staying overnight in Vancouver before taking an Alaskan cruise.
The Westin Bayshore
I love The Westin Bayshore and often stay here if I’m taking a “town” break from my home on nearby Bowen Island.
The Bayshore’s location right next to Stanley Park is a huge selling point. Rent a bike and ride around the park, then return to the hotel and enjoy a drink overlooking Vancouver’s stunning harbor.
Vancouver Tours
GetYourGuide offers a variety of tours of Vancouver and the surrounding areas. If you have a full day to spare, then I recommend you head up to Whistler.
On this tour, you’ll ride the Sea to Sky Gondola in Squamish, explore Whistler Village (don’t miss the Audain Art Museum), and visit stunning Shannon Falls on the world-famous Sea-to-Sky Highway.
After visiting MOA, you may feel inspired by the various Indigenous portrayals of the Orcas that swim in the local waters. Treat yourself to a whale watching experience.
The Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver is a cultural and artistic treasure well worth a few hours of your time.
The sweeping views of mountains and sea you’ll enjoy on the journey out to the University of British Columbia are reason enough to visit, but you’ll also learn so much about the Indigenous cultures of the Pacific Northwest and get a chance to marvel at the the objects on display from around the world.
The ingenuity of people never ceases to amaze me, which is why I love museums like this.
Have you visited the Museum of Anthropology? What were your favorite exhibits? Share your recommendations and observations in the Comments below.
Here are some more posts about museums I’ve visited and heartily recommend:
