Bar at the Folies Bergeres by Manet

Best of the Courtauld Gallery in London: A Treasure Trove for the Artsy Traveler

I recently visited the Courtauld Gallery within hours of landing at Heathrow after flying to London from Vancouver. After three years away from Europe, I was itching to see great art, and the Courtauld Gallery turned out to be the perfect place to ease my way back into artsy traveling.

It’s small, it’s centrally located, and its collection is exquisite.

The highlights of the Courtauld Gallery are the truly impressive Impressionist collection and the medieval collection.

Pinterest graphic showing a painting of workers in a field by Gauguin. The text reads "Courtauld Gallery: An Artsy Treasure Trove"

The Courtauld Gallery is part of the renowned Courtauld Institute of Art. This research-led higher education institution is the University of London’s largest community of art historians, conservators and curators. The gallery recently reopened after being closed for three years. The new and improved version is little short of spectacular.

Like the vast majority of visitors, I headed first to the top floor to view the Impressionist collection and the special exhibition of paintings by Edvard Munch (see my review of this exhibition). The room containing the Impressionist collection attracts the most visitors and can get a bit crowded.

I walked into the large room containing a delicious collection of Impressionists and immediately had to sit down to prevent myself from falling down and embarrassing myself. What I really wanted to do is laugh out loud and twirl myself past masterpiece after masterpiece, giddy with the beauty surrounding me.

When, finally, I collected myself, I began pacing slowly and reverently past gorgeous painting after gorgeous painting by all the biggies—Monet, Cézanne, Gauguin, Renoir, and on and on.

Here are just a few of the highlights of the Impressionist collection.

Tall Trees at the Jas de Bouffan by Paul Cézanne

Image of the painting entitled "all Trees at the Jas de Bouffan" showing a row of trees in Provence by Paul Cezanne included in the Impressionist collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
“Tall Trees at the Jas de Bouffan” by Paul Cezanne

Cézanne painted many views of the countryside surrounding Jas de Bouffan, a rural estate outside Aix-en-Provence owned by Cézanne’s father. Having visited the area, I can attest that Cézanne captures the shimmering quality of the light and the particularly vivid shades of green unique to Provence. My favorite Cézannes are his paintings of the Provence landscapes and this one is a keeper for sure!

Young Woman Powdering Herself by Georges Seurat

Painting called "Young Woman Powdering Herself" by Goerges Seurat showing a woman wearing a red corset and holding a powder puff. The style is pointillist and the piece is included in the Impressionist collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
“Young Woman Powdering Herself” by Georges Seurat

I’ve long been a fan of Georges Seurat who created the “pointillist” style of painting. He followed newly formulated optical theories by placing colors from opposite sides of the color wheel–orange and blue; pink and green–next to each other to create contrast. Seurat died at age 31 but he left behind some stunning works, this one being his only major portrait.

Self Portrait with Bandaged Ear by Vincent van Gogh

"Self-Portrait with Bandaged Ear" by Vincent van Gogh" included in the Impressionist collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
“Self-Portrait with Bandaged Ear” by Vincent van Gogh

I couldn’t believe the Courtauld had this piece! It’s one of my favorite van Goghs. I love how he contrasts the various colors–blue hat, green coat, orange face–and also includes the image of one of the Japanese prints he collected. Van Gogh was heavily influenced by Japanese printmaking. He painted this piece in 1889, a week after leaving hospital following the famous incident when he cut off a portion of his left ear after a heated argument with Paul Gauguin. Even injured, van Gogh was determined to keep painting.

The Haystacks by Paul Gauguin

The Haystacks by Paul Gauguin included in the Impressionist collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
The Haystacks by Paul Gauguin

And speaking of Gauguin, I was thrilled to see this piece which he painted while he was living in Brittany. Gregg Simpson (husband and painter) is currently working on the Pont Aven Suite, a series inspired by Gauguin’s Brittany paintings, so Gauguin has been a regular topic of a conversation in our house. I love how Gauguin simplifies and flattens forms and colors. This piece has so much movement–the women raking hay above and the man driving the oxen below.

A Bar at the Folies-Bergère by Edouard Manet

The Bar at the Folies Bergeres by Edoaurd Manet included in the Impressionist collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
A Bar at the Folies-Bergères by Edouard Manet

Fabulous as all the pieces in the Impressionist collection are, the best of all is my old friend A Bar at the Folies-Bergères by Manet. What a painting!

The young barmaid (the model’s name was Suzon) looks out at the viewer, her expression both bored and vulnerable at the same time. According to the descriptive text next to the piece, “Manet created a complex and absorbing compostion that is considered one of the iconic paintings of modern life.” That is certainly true!

Suzon is every person in the world working in a dead-end job they hate and yet obliged to pretend they enjoy for the sake of the customers.

After thoroughly exploring the top floor, I began my descent to the other two floors to explore the rest of the Courtauld Gallery’s collection. I was in for a treat as it turned out.

One of my favorite eras for painting is the middle ages, particularly the first half of the 14th century when artists were not worried about perspective and realism. I love the use of gold, the pastel shades of the egg tempera paint the artists used, and the lego-like way in which they depicted medieval buildings.

Well, the Courtauld delivered! To my delight, it houses a lovely medieval collection that includes such notables as Lorenzetti and Duccio—two hometown boys from Siena, my fave Italian city (and one of the settings for The Towers of Tuscany).

As is often the case in art museums, the medieval rooms were pretty much empty so I drifted from painting to painting and admired to my heart’s content.

A highlight is a series of small panels painted by Fra Angelico (1417-1455) that depicts six female saints. Each face is incredibly expressive and compelling. I wonder who Fra Angelico used as models.

Medieval gold panel that includes a portrait of a female saint dressed in the black habit of a nun created by Fra Angelico included in the Medieval collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
Medieval gold panel that includes a portrait of a female saint dressed in a blue robe trimmed with gold and created by Fra Angelico included in the Medieval collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
Medieval gold panel that includes a portrait of a female saint dressed in a red robe and with long hair, and created by Fra Angelico included in the Medieval collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
Medieval gold panel that includes a portrait of a female saint dressed in a pink cloak and created by Fra Angelico included in the Medieval collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
Medieval gold panel that includes a portrait of a female saint wearing a red gown trimmed with gold and a green cape, and created by Fra Angelico included in the Medieval collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
Medieval gold panel that includes a portrait of a female saint wearing a simple blue gown and created by Fra Angelico included in the Medieval collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.

After thoroughly exploring and enjoying the large collection of medieval art, I toured the rest of the collection. There’s a fair number of works from the 16th to the 19th centuries, including works by Rembrandt, Gainsborough, Reynolds, and Rubens.

A big selling point of the Courtauld is its compact size and that each piece in the colleciton is stellar. I don’t think I’ve ever visited an art museum where the quality of all the pieces is so uniformly high.

After my visit, I got chatting with the young man in the gift shop. He enthusiastically agreed that the Courtauld’s collection is first-rate and also kindly listened to me rattle on about how I first visited the Courtauld with my mom back in 1970 (likely a good forty years befor he was born!)

Here are two more of my favorites at the Courtauld Gallery.

Adam and Eve by Cranach the Elder included in the collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
“Adam and Eve” by Cranach the Elder
Landscape with the Flight into Egypt painting by Pieter Bruegel the Elder and ncluded in the collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
“Landscape with the Flight Into Egypt” by Pieter Bruegel the Elder

The Courtauld Gallery is open Monday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00. Book your ticket in advance on the website to avoid line-ups and also to make sure you get in! Check the website also for special exhibitions. The Munch exhibition I saw was definitely worth the extra price.

Where to Stay in London

Stay as close to the center of London as you can afford. You’ll be able to walk a lot more places that you’ll want to see and you’ll feel like you’re where the action is!

Here are three recommendations:

  • Park Plaza Victoria London Hotel located right across the street from Victoria Station is a good deal for a modern, four-star hotel in the heart of London.
  • Wilde ApartHotel just off the Strand is an excellent choice and couldn’t be more central for the West End Theaters. It’s also within easy walking distance of the Courtauld Gallery.
  • The ParkCity in Kensington is a bit farther off the beaten track but very close to some of my favorite museums, including the Victoria & Albert.

London Tours & Tickets

Here are some options for touring London and buying tickets for interesting museums such as the Design Museum and other attractions.

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London Walking Tours

GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of London!

Conclusion

As my first visit to a world-class art museum in three years, the Courtauld was the perfect choice. It gently eased me back into artsy traveling, doling out artsy hits like small bites of gourmet chocolates—each one more flavorful than the last and yet all equally fabulous.

Have you visited the Courtauld? Which piece was your favorite? Share your experience in the Comments section below.

Here are some more posts about favorite art museums in Europe:

The Belvedere Palace in Vienna, with its ornate Baroque architecture and green domed roofs, reflecting in a large pond. A white statue of nymphs and sea creatures stands in the center of the water.

Visit These 15 Best Museums in Vienna

If you love museums, then Vienna is your town!

You can easily fill several days visiting Vienna’s world-class museums.

You’ll find museums that cater to just about every artsy interest–from painting to music to theater and much more.

In this post, I describe what I consider the 15 must-see museums for artsy travelers to visit while touring Vienna, one of my favorite European cultural capitals. 

A collage featuring Vienna’s museums, including the Kunsthistorisches Museum dome, the modernist Mumok building, the Belvedere Palace with a pond, and a colorful brick wall with glass bottles embedded in concrete. Bold white text reads "Best Vienna Museum Experiences" with the website "artsytraveler.com."

Vienna Museum Highlights at a Glance

Map of Vienna

Use the map below to get your bearings when touring Vienna. It’s a very walkable city with most of the museums clustered in the museum district.

This map was made with Wanderlog, for making itineraries on iOS and Android

Touring Museums in Vienna

So let’s dig into my suggestions for the 15 best museum experiences in Vienna.

As you’ll quickly discover, Vienna really is one of Europe’s best destinations for museum lovers.

The only trouble is that you need to pace yourself. All those long, marble-floored corridors are hard on the knees. Take your time! It’s better to enjoy fewer museums and enjoy yourself than try to see them all and be too exhausted to take in a concert in the evening and enjoy a plate of weiner schnitzel.

Assume you’ll return!

And while Vienna has some of the best museums in the world, it’s also a wonderful place to just sit back and watch the world go by. There’s a reason that Vienna consistently ranks in the top ten of the world’s most livable cities.

Here are my suggestions for 15 museums to visit in Vienna.

National Museums

#1: Kunsthistorisches Museum

Start at the Kunsthistorisches Museum (#1), Vienna’s answer to the Louvre and considered by many to be one of the best museums in all of Vienna.

Located at Maria-Theresien-Platz in the Imperial Palace complex, this fabulous (and HUGE) museum exhibits the art collection of the Habsburg family. They were also known as the House of Austria and for several hundred years ruled a large chunk of Europe.

Skip the line by purchasing your tickets online before you leave. You save time and are guaranteed entry into this marvelous museum.

The Kunsthistorisches Museum includes several collections.

The exterior of the Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna, a grand building with domes, statues, and a manicured garden with a fountain in the foreground. This museum is one of the top museums to visit in Vienna.
Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna

Egyptian and Near Eastern

You’ll find one of the world’s most important collections of Egyptian antiquities at the Kunsthistorisches Museum. Take a tour of the collection which includes more than 17,000 objects. I always enjoy a good Egyptian museum, and the collection here is first-rate.

Greek and Roman Antiquities

The collection spans 3,000 years. I’m particularly fond of the Greek vases decorated with scenes of Greek life.

Kunstkammer Wien: The Cradle of the Museum

This relatively new area of the museum (opened in 2013) contains over 2,200 fabulous artworks. The Habsburg emperors were busy collectors from the late Middle Ages to the Baroque Age. You’ll find sculptures, clocks, objets d’art, scientific instruments, automatons, and a lot more.

The list goes on. Have a good look. You won’t regret it.

The collection in the Picture Gallery is nirvana for the art lover. You’ll find pieces by Pieter Bruegel the Elder that you’ll probably recognize if you like 16th-century Dutch painting and if you’ve ever taken a European art history course. 

You’ll also find masterpieces by Caravaggio, Titian, Rubens, and one of my favorites, Arcimboldo, who really had a way with food.

We bought a jigsaw puzzle of one of the Arcimboldo paintings in the marvelous museum gift shop. I do like a good museum giftshop and the one at the Kunsthistorisches has a great selection.

Giuseppe Arcimboldo - Summer - Google Art Project
Giuseppe Arcimboldo, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Collection of Historical Musical Instruments

I write about the incredible collection of historical musical instruments in Music Lover’s Guide to Vienna. On my solo trip to Vienna, I spent a happy afternoon enjoying the rooms full of pianos and harpsichords and various other instruments. The collection of Renaissance and Baroque instruments is reputed to be the finest in the world.

I was in heaven, particularly because this area of the massive museum was virtually empty. If I’d been so inclined, I could have played one of the pianos, and probably no one would have been the wiser.

Needless to say, I didn’t try. The prospect of even a short stay in a Viennese prison did not appeal, even if it’s likely to be well maintained and serve wiener schnitzel and torte.

The Kunsthistorisches Museum also includes the Coin Collection, an Armory, and lots more, but you get the picture. The museum is worth a good chunk of your day. Alternatively, pace yourself and space your visit across a few days. It depends on your stamina because plenty of museums await you in Vienna’s Museum Quarter.

The Kunsthistorisches Museum is open daily except Mondays from 10 am to 6 pm and on Thursdays from 10 am to 9 pm.

Here’s an option for that includes a guided tour:

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#2: Natural History Museum

The architectural mirror image of the Kunsthistorisches Museum is the Museum of Natural History of Naturhistorisches Museum (#2) opposite it.

I have a soft spot for natural history museums, and Vienna’s is excellent, easily on par with the Natural History Museums in London, New York, and Washington.

The big draw is the squat statue of the wonderfully fecund Venus of Willendorf. She’s a clay figurine just 11.1 centimeters tall, reputed to have been made between 24,000 and 22,000 BCE, which is a long time ago on any calendar.

Although little is known about how or why she was made, you have to think her purpose had something to do with fertility.

I mean, seriously! Look at her!

Because she lacks defined facial features, some philosophers and archeologists view the Venus of Willendorf as representative of a universal mother.

Well, I certainly took to her. She’s displayed in a special, atmospherically lit case that will probably be surrounded by other museum-goers.

Figurine called the Venus of Willendorf on display at the Natural History Museum in Vienna.
Don Hitchcock, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creative
commons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0via Wikimedia Commons

Wait your turn and then spend a few minutes contemplating universal motherhood and also thinking about the people who made this exquisite figure.

How had they used her? Had she been cherished? I like to think so.

Animal Displays 

One of the museum’s many highlights being the massive second floor containing several high-ceilinged, ornate rooms stuffed to the ceiling with stuffed animals.

When we walked into the reptile room on our family trip, I had to sprint through it with my eyes closed.

Stuffed snakes in glass cages slithered every which way through the massive room. And I don’t mean the cute plush variety of stuffed snakes.

Oh no. I’m talking about very real, very menacing, very snakey snakes. Ugh!

Fortunately, the other rooms made up for the trauma of the reptile room. The Vienna Museum of Natural History gets top marks for taxidermy.

Museums in the Museum Quarter

Vienna’s Museum Quarter (MQ) (#3) in central Vienna is truly a remarkable cultural area. Housing over sixty cultural institutions, the MQ is one of the largest districts for contemporary art and culture in the world.

You’ll find museums and events devoted to art, architecture, music, fashion, theater, children’s culture, literature, dance, street art, photography, even gaming culture.

This is the place to be if you love the arts.

Highlights of the MQ directly related to visual art include viewing modern art at the Leopold Museum, MUMOK – the Museum of Modern Art and Kunsthalle Wien, and visiting the remarkable Kunst Haus Wien–Vienna’s first ecological museum.

The MQ is always open and entry is free. Relax in the various courtyards and engage in some serious people watching.

The Museum Quarter in Vienna, bustling with people seated on modern red benches, with the Mumok building in the background.
Hanging out in the Museum Quarter in Vienna

For more information about what’s on, including special events, check the MQ website and the websites for the individual museums. The range and breadth of cultural activities truly is breathtaking!

Here are four of the major art museums in the MQ.

#4: Leopold Museum

The Leopold Museum (#4) exhibits the world’s most important collection of paintings and works on paper by Egon Schiele.

Along with Gustav Klimt, Schiele is one of the best-known Austrian artists of the 20th century.

Painting of a woman in a striped dress by Austrian artist Egon Schiele on display at the Leopold Museum in Vienna, Austria, one of the 15 best museums in Vienna.
Egon Schiele, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

#5: MUMOK – Museum moderner Kunst Stiftung Ludwig Wien

MUMOK (#5) is the largest museum of modern and contemporary art in central Europe (and that’s saying something!).

You’ll find an amazing collection that features works of classical modernism (my favorite) by artists such as Picasso, Mondrian, and Magritte to mention only a few, along with pop art, Fluxus, minimal art, and concept art, as well as Vienna Actionism and contemporary art.

The exterior of the Mumok (Museum of Modern Art) in Vienna, a large gray modernist building with a curved facade and a broad staircase leading to the entrance.
MUMOK in the Museum Quarter in Vienna

#6: Kunsthalle Wien

The Kunsthalle Wien (#6) fcouses on temporary exhibitions of contemporary art. I confess I’m not generally a fan of contemporary art, but if you are, check the website for current exhibitions.

#7: Kunst Haus Wien

Vienna’s first ecological museum, the Kunst Haus Wien (#7), features contemporary art with a focus on photography. You have to check out the building–it’s remarkable with colorful tiles, uneven floors, and irregular structures.

The museum also houses the Museum Hundertwasser which displays the largest permanent collection of works by Friedensreich Hundertwasser who designed the building for the Kunst Haus Wien and is also one of Austria’s most famous artists and visionaries.

Here’s an option for purchasing tickets to the Kunst Haus Wien:

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The Meeting Place at the MuseumsQuartier (MQ) is one of the largest cultural quarters in the world. You’ll need another day to tour the MQ and also hang out in its public spaces.

Other Top Museums in Vienna

#8: Belvedere Palace

You can’t visit Vienna and not visit the Belvedere Palace (#8)! It’s the home of the world’s largest collection of Klimt’s paintings, including his masterpiece, The Kiss, and the iconic Judith I.

You’ll also find an excellent 19th-century collection that includes work by Monet and van Gogh.

 Called The Kiss, this is a famous painting by Gustav Klimt depicting a couple embracing, covered in golden robes, surrounded by a field of colorful flowers. You can see this painting when you visit the Belvedere in Vienna.
Gustav Klimt, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The baroque Belvedere Palace itself is worth visiting to see its magnificent ornamental gardens and the stunning views of Vienna.

Here’s an option for visiting the Belvedere that includes a private guided tour:

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#9: Albertina Museum

The Albertina Museum (#9) is located not far from the Vienna Opera House, and contains the world’s most important graphic collections along with works of art by Monet, Renoir, Chagall, Miro, Magritte, Munch, Picasso, and more. 

You can also visit the Albertina – Modern a few blocks away, which is Vienna’s new museum of modern art.

#10: Theater Museum Vienna

I always go out of my way to visit a museum dedicated to theater. My third novel, The Muse of Fire, is set in the theater.

The collection at the Theater Museum (#10) in Vienna includes over 1,000 stage models, 600 costumes, and a lot of props that bring the history of theater in Austria to life. So much to see!

#11: Jewish Museum 

Billed as the world’s first Jewish Museum, the Jewish Museum Vienna is the place to learn about Vienna’s Jewish life from the Middle Ages to the present (#11).

The permanent collection showcasing the Jewish community in medieval Vienna is particularly compelling. For two hundred years beginning in the thirteenth century, Vienna was a center of Jewish knowledge and learning. In 1420/21, the members of this first Jewish community were expelled and murdered by order of Duke Albert V. The recent discovery of the remains of the destroyed medieval synagogue drew attention to Vienna’s hitherto largely ignored medieval history.

#12: MAK – Museum of Applied Arts

The MAK Museum (#12) is a “museum for arts and the everyday world.” Its extensive collection focuses on the applied arts and the interface of design, architecture, and contemporary arts.

MAK showcases a special exhibition called « Vienna 1900 » with some of the most illustrious art nouveau designers.

MAK’s permanent   collection includes one of the world’s finest collection of lace and glassware, particularly Venetian glass (I’m a sucker for Venetian glass). You’ll also find a collection of textiles and carpets, and lots more.

#13: Wien Museum

I thoroughly enjoyed touring the Wien Museum with its displays showcasing the history and culture of Vienna over the centuries. The museum’s permanent exhibition is called “Vienna. My History” and provides the visitor with a chronological tour of the city — from the first settlement to the present day. 

When I was visiting Vienna to research A Woman of Note, I spent a long time in the Wien Museum getting a feel for what life was like in Vienna in the early 19th century.

I found the scale model of Vienna as it looked when it was still enclosed by a wall particularly interesting. In the 19th century, the wall was demolished and replaced with the Ring Road. 

A detailed scale model of Vienna, showcasing the city's historic architecture, winding streets, and bridges over a river. The model is housed in an octagonal glass case, highlighting intricate features such as buildings, city walls, and surrounding greenery. This model is a highlight of a visit to the Wien Museum in Vienna.

Music Museums in Vienna

Vienna is the City of Music and home to an impressive number of the world’s most famous composers–Beethoven, Mozart, Haydn, Schubert, Strauss, and Mahler.

And several more composers stopped by to perform, including Chopin, Liszt, Schumann (Robert and Clara), and Brahms.

#14: Pascqualati House

A highlight of my solo trip to Vienna was visiting Pasqualati House (#13) where Beethoven lived and worked for a while. He changed apartments a lot, apparently.

Another good choice of Beethoven lovers (and who isn’t?!) is the Beethoven Museum. 

Carol Cram stands in front of Pasqualati House where Beethoven once lived. It is an historic building with tall windows and red-and-white striped flags hanging above a plaque.
Me in front of Vienna’s Pasqualati House, one of the places where Beethoven lived

#15: The House of Music

Also known as the House of Sound (#14), this celebration of music–particularly classical music (my favorite)–is spine-tinglingly awesome! I could sepnd days here exploring five floors of first-rate, music-themed exhibits.

Try your hand at conducting the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra and find out it’s not as easy as it looks!

#16: Mozarthaus Museum

Mozart lived in several houses in the city during his short and tumultuous life. The only one that survives is the Mozarthaus Museum (#15) at Domgasse #5, where he lived from 1784 to 1787.

The museum sprawls over 1,000 square meters on six levels and is a place of pilgrimage for Mozart lovers. Here’s an option for purchasing tickets.

https://www.getyourguide.com/vienna-l7/vienna-tickets-for-mozarthaus-vienna-with-audio-guide-t35669/?ranking_uuid=d319443f-af37-4fc9-8491-1e4a19ab494f

For more information about these and other top music sites to visit in Vienna, read Music Lover’s Guide to Vienna.

Museum Passes

If you enjoy touring museums and have two or more days in Vienna, consider purchasing a Vienna PASS.

You’ll be able to skip the line to popular attractions, get in free to more than 60 attractions, including the Belvedere Palace and St. Stephen’s Cathedral, and ride the hop-on hop-off sightseeing bus. It’s a pretty good deal and it saves you time.

Another option is the Vienna City Card.

Another less expensive option is the Vienna Flexi PASS that allows you to customize your itinerary.

Vienna Tours

Here are some GetYourGuide tours of Vienna.

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Vienna Walking Tours

GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Vienna!

Other recommended posts about Austria and Vienna:

Have you been to Vienna? What are your favorite museums? Let us know in the comments below.