Memorable Mother-Daughter Bonding on the Rocky Mountaineer
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Moms and daughters can make excellent travel companions. If you’re looking for a special way to celebrate your relationship with your mom or your daughter, consider a rail journey with Rocky Mountaineer.
Away from your daily lives, you can relax and enjoy each other’s company while you gaze at the spectacular scenery sliding past your window, explore interesting locations together, and soak up new experiences.
My Daughter and Me
Since my daughter Julia was five years old, I’ve taken trips just with her—from two-day visits to nearby Victoria, BC, when she was little to exploring England when she was 14, riding the rails around Japan when she was 18, and in recent years, exploring Costa Rica, Greece, and Iceland.
One of our most delightful mother-daughter bonding experiences has been the two journeys we’ve taken on the iconic Rocky Mountaineer:
- Two-day Journey Through the Clouds from Vancouver to Jasper via Kamloops (2023)
- Three-day Rainforest to Gold Rush from Vancouver to Quesnel to Jasper (2025)
In this post, I share my experience on the three-day Rainforest to Gold Rush journey I recently enjoyed on the Rocky Mountaineer.
For my account of the Journey Through the Clouds, check out Experience Western Canada in Style on the Rocky Mountaineer.
Day 1: Vancouver to Whistler
At 8:30 am, we board the Rocky Mountaineer from a nondescript railyard in North Vancouver, not far from Julia’s apartment. Day 1 is short with just three hours on the train to cover about 90 miles. But it’s packed full of breathtaking scenic beauty.
We settle into our roomy GoldLeaf dome seats and start exploring the various comfort buttons. The massive glass windows arch high overhead, so as soon as the train gets underway, I feel like I’m floating through the trees.
West Vancouver
Within minutes, we leave behind the industrial rail yards and skirt Ambleside Beach in West Vancouver, one of Canada’s wealthiest neighborhoods. Moss-draped trees frame glimpses of ocean and gorgeous homes clinging to the cliffs.
We pass Bowen Island where I live (pictured below) brooding under the leaden clouds.
There’s so much to look at that I spend most of my time snapping photos and oohing and aahing at the spectacular beauty of this corner of the world.
I’m entranced—and I live here!
Along the Sea to Sky Highway
Even in a drizzly west coast rain, the route along the Sea to Sky Highway is stunning. To the left as we head north is the glassy expanse of Howe Sound and to the right rise sheer cliffs.
Food on the Rocky Mountaineer
The Rocky Mountaineer is justifiably famous for its food and hospitality. Two meals are provided on full days and one on the shorter first day. Each carriage divides its 70 guests into two sittings. On the first day, we are scheduled for the later breakfast. The next day, we’ll be in the first seating.
While we wait, we’re served hot drinks (the coffee is excellent) along with warm cranberry bread drizzled with lemon sauce. Around 10:30 am, the cheerful hosts invite us down to the dining car, where choices include eggs benedict, smoked salmon avocado toast, pancakes, and chia pudding (my favorite, pictured below).
Practical tip:
GoldLeaf service includes all meals, drinks, and snacks. Dietary restrictions can be accommodated if noted at booking.
Arriving in Whistler
By noon, we’re pulling into Whistler Creekside. I wax nostalgic with my daughter (part of the mother-daughter bonding experience) about my first visit back in the 1970s, when Whistler was barely ten years old.
In those days, we skied in blue jeans no matter how cold the weather got, and a day pass cost $7. Nowadays, a day pass costs around $300. Mind you, skiers now get access to dozens of runs on two mountains (Whistler and Blackcomb) instead of only the handful of runs available on Whistler at the time, so comparatively speaking, it’s probably still a bargain.
The sleek Creekside area looks much different with its modern condos, cafés, and shops. In 1973, I remember a gas station, a pub, the hostel where I stayed, and that’s about it.
Staying in Whistler
A fleet of buses whisks us to our accommodations. We’re staying at the Delta Hotels by Marriott Whistler Villages Suites, centrally located in the village. (Luggage is delivered directly to your room—a helpful touch.)
We drop our day packs and head out to explore. The sun bursts forth to burnish the fall colors of the beautifully landscaped Whistler village.
Exploring Whistler
I’d hoped to visit the Audain Art Gallery but alas, it’s closed on Wednesdays. Instead, we explore the Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre in the Upper Village. The informative film and guided tour introduce us to cedar canoe traditions, animal pelts (the ferret one is unbelievably soft!), and the rich culture of the First Nations people who have lived here for millennia.
We stroll back through the village to shop to pick up souvenirs for my great-niece and brand new great-nephew before checking in to the hotel. Our spacious suite includes a separate bedroom, along with a full kitchen and cozy living area.
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Guided Activities in Whistler
If you have time while in Whistler, consider one of these activities. I did the zip lining adventure on another trip to Whistler with my daughter and can highly recommend it for those craving a bit of excitement. It was definitely a good mother-daughter bonding experience!
We enjoy dinner at Brickworks, conveniently located in our hotel. Since it’s off season, a dinner deal is offered—three generous courses for $45.
I start with mussels from Prince Edward Island swimming in a cream broth so good I want to lick the bowl. Next is perfectly cooked duck breast with potatoes and salad. It’s a lot of food and I struggle valiantly to at least finish the duck. Julia orders the chicken and is defeated halfway through her dinner.
Brickworks is known for its gin, though I opt for rum-based cocktails since gin is my least favorite spirit.
The server helpfully suggests we get our desserts to go since we are both full to bursting. I order the carrot cake; Julia orders the chocolate cake. They arrive conveniently boxed up and we return to our room.
With a six a.m. wake-up call pending, we get to bed early, although the excitement of the day keeps me awake until the wee hours.
Day 2: Whistler to Quesnel
We’re in the lobby at 6:30 am, and then out into the teeming rain to catch the bus. A 35-minute drive in the dark takes us to Pemberton where the train awaits.
As the sky begins to lighten, we see a group of schoolchildren waving us off, as they apparently do every week during the season. It’s a small, heartwarming ritual that feels very Canadian.
The train sets off and we prepare for a 12-hour day of gliding through some of BC’s most spectacular scenery. I’ve never traveled through the region north of Whistler so I’m excited to explore a new-to-me part of my province.
Lakes, Lakes, and More Lakes
We skirt the edge of Anderson Lake for several kilometers. To our left are craggy slabs of granite so close they threaten to scrape the dome as we pass. Trees sprout at unlikely angles, their silhouettes stark against the sky .
To our right the gleaming waters of Anderson Lake stretch to phalanxes of forested peaks disappearing into the mist. Occasionally, the sun breaks through to kiss the craggy summits.
Slowly, the dense rainforest gives way to dry, tawny hills.
Into the Desert
From green glacier lakes and dark green trees, the landscape transforms. Grey-green sagebrush tumbles down hillsides painted in twenty shades of brown—from light beige to rust red.
We are entering the great interior desert—an ecosystem that stretches from British Columbia to Mexico.
Every so often, I descend to the outdoor viewing platform on the first level of the two-level train. We are fortunate to be seated in the last car and so have a clear view of the rails speeding off into the distance.
Over the three days, I snap a lot of photos of receding tracks.
The Cariboo Plateau
By early afternoon, we reach the Cariboo Plateau. For the rest of the day, we’ll traverse this stunning region of rolling hills and big skies. We are taking the journey in early October, so the predominant colors are sizzling yellows and oranges, punctuated occasionally by pops of flame red.
One of the hosts tells us he never tires of this view because it changes constantly—from snow-capped spring to flower-bright summer to blazing fall.
Lunch today is a highlight: salmon with a glass of crisp Sauvignon Blanc for me, pork tenderloin for Julia, followed by lavender lemon posset and blueberry cheesecake.
Somewhere near Williams Lake, I doze off, rocked by the rhythm of the rails.
North to Quesnel
Golden aspens flash by as the sun dips low. Near Soda Creek, we pass through an area that in 2017 was the epicenter of a massive forest fire, one of the biggest in BC history at the time.
There is something immensely soothing about riding at a sedate pace along tracks so high they skim the tops of the trees. The views in the golden evening light are breathtaking.
Although I’ve been on the train now since 8 am and it’s now almost 6 pm, I don’t feel bored or particularly hankering to get off. What with getting up frequently to snap photos from the outdoor viewing platform and just relaxing and enjoying the view, the time passes pleasantly.
We’re told that our arrival in Quesnel will be slightly delayed so a dinner service is offered to those who wish it. We say yes, of course.
Sunset descends over the Caribou Plateau; the shimmering light providing plenty of opportunities for spectacular photos.
Overnight in Quesnel
We pull into Quesnel and see people waving. Our host tells us how generous and welcoming the people of Quesnel have consistently been during the twenty-five years that the Rainforest to Goldrush route has been running.
After disembarking, we hop on the bus for the fifteen minute drive to the Sandman Hotel. It’s located out on the highway so there’s not much around except chain restaurants, a 7-11, and a Walmart. We head out for a much-needed walk.
It’s to bed early again in preparation for a 6:45 am departure on day 3.
Day 3: Quesnel to Jasper
Morning brings mist, marshes, and forests glowing with golden fall colors.
The landscape inspires me to wax nostalgic (more mother-daughter bonding) about the year I spent in Mackenzie, a pulp mill town located about a hundred miles north of Prince George, which is on our route.
This forest is similar to the landscape I remember from that year. It was my first year of teaching high school back in 1979. I wasn’t cut out for life in the North and relocated to Vancouver to teach for two more years before quitting to seek my fortune in Toronto.
The rain blurs the windows, but the beauty outside still shines through.
Marshes, Beavers, and Quiet Contemplation
We spot beaver dams, shimmering lakes, and evergreens punctuated by bright aspens. Our hosts—Naomi from Ireland and Avi from Vancouver—share stories about the region’s history and wildlife.
Commentary is light, informative, amusing, and never intrusive. There’s ample time just to be and watch the world go by.
Drinks & Snacks
Between meals, the hosts circulate with drinks and snacks. I stick mostly to mocktails and soda water, although I try one Caesar (verdict: not for me).
Meals on Day 3
Breakfast is chia pudding again and lunch is melt-in-your-mouth beef short rib. Every dish is prepared fresh onboard by the carriage’s own chef—an impressive feat considering the train’s gentle sway.
Mount Robson and Arrival in Jasper
Late afternoon brings us to Mount Robson, the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies. As usual, a portion of its summit hides behind clouds, but the mountain is majestic nonetheless.
As we near Jasper and the end of our journey, the chef comes upstairs and serves us a freshly-baked cookie still warm from the oven.
For most of the journey, Julia has been crocheting a blue and gold train. She finishes it just in time for one of the hosts to show it off to the rest of the guests.
Time in Jasper
We bid farewell to the wonderful Rocky Mountaineer crew and head to our hotel, the Lobstick Lodge. The lodge is a good choice if you’re on a budget (like we are), but if you really want to splash out, check into the luxurious Jasper Park Lodge.
If you take the Rocky Mountaineer to Jasper, I recommend spending at least one full day exploring the town and surroundings.
On our last trip in 2023, Julia and I took a tour to Maligne Lake and Maligne Canyon. Unfortunately, Maligne Canyon is currently closed while Parks Canada assesses the fire damage resulting from the devastating fire of 2024 that destroyed half the town of Jasper.
Fortunately, Maligne Lake and the boat tours are still operating. Here is an option from GetYourGuide:
Read about my experience cruising Maligne Lake in my post Out-of-this-World Scenery Sparks Joy on a Maligne Lake Cruise.
On this trip, we opted to take a morning photography tour with Jasper Photo Tours and then in the late afternoon took the Jasper SkyTram to the top of the mountain. We were blown away by stupendous views of the surrounding peaks glowing in the setting sun.
🌲 Top Five Reasons to Take the Rainforest to Gold Rush
- Ever-Changing Landscapes – From misty rainforests to desert canyons to alpine peaks, this route is a moving art gallery of British Columbia’s wild beauty.
- Unparalleled Comfort – GoldLeaf Service offers panoramic dome windows, gourmet meals, and hosts who remember your name and your favorite drink.
- Slow Travel at Its Finest – No rush, no stress—just the rhythmic lull of rails and the joy of watching the world go by at a sedate pace.
- Deep Connection – Whether you’re traveling with a parent, partner, or friend, uninterrupted time together fosters real conversation and memory-making.
- Photography Heaven – The outdoor viewing platform and shifting light offer endless opportunities for iconic shots.
Practical Information
- Route: Vancouver → Whistler → Quesnel → Jasper
- Duration: 3 days / 2 nights
- Season: Runs from late April through early October
- Included: Meals, drinks, snacks, hotels in Whistler and Quesnel, luggage transfer
- Dress Code: Casual layers; bring a light rain jacket for West Coast weather
- Booking: Reserve at least 6 months ahead, especially for GoldLeaf class in peak season
Final Thoughts
If you’re on the fence about taking this journey with your daughter, your son, your spouse, or a friend—jump off the fence and book. You won’t regret it.
The Rocky Mountaineer isn’t just a train; it’s a slow, luxurious ribbon tying together nature, nostalgia, and meaningful connection.
Here are some more posts about my home country of Canada:
- UBC Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver: Why You Should Go!
- Top Ten Excellent Things to Do in Québec City for the Artsy Traveler
- Food as Art: FireWorks Feast at the Inn at Bay Fortune
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