Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris has—literally—risen from the ashes and is again open to the public.
If you’re visiting Paris, carve out an hour or so to go inside the recently reopened Notre-Dame de Paris and admire what surely must be the most incredible restoration job in modern history.
In this post, I describe my recent visit to the newly opened Notre-Dame Cathedral.
If you’re visiting Paris, go. You won’t regret it.
Notre-Dame Cathedral Tickets: Make a Reservation
But before you charge off to the historic center of Paris–the first arrondisement on the Île de cité–make a reservation. Entrance to the cathedral is free, but if you make a reservation, you skip the long lineup of people who did not.
I couldn’t figure out why anyone would visit without making a reservation because doing so was so simple. A few hours before visiting the cathedral, I went to the official website and was given the choice of a 4 pm entry.
Check Your Reservation Time
The reservation is good for just twenty minutes past the allotted time. I arrived at 4:10 and walked straight through the main entrance with zero waiting.
To my left was a very, very long line snaking around several loops filled with people who hadn’t made a reservation. Maybe I was just lucky to have gotten a same-day one. The website noted that it releases reservations throughout the day. As a result, you may need to check back frequently.
A Miracle of Gothic Architecture
Once inside the cathedral, prepare to be amazed. Seriously amazed. I’ve visited Notre-Dame Cathedral many times since my first trip to Paris way back in 1970, and I’ve always enjoyed it.
But on this visit, I was jaw-droppingly blown away.
To think that only five years earlier in April 2019, the nave was a smoking ruin with portions of the ceiling caved in and the spire collapsed.
And now? The restored stone is so blindingly white that it looks brand new—which of course it kind of is!
A Brand New Cathedral
Gone is the gravitas imparted by stone columns that have soared to the vaulted ceiling for a thousand years. The new Notre-Dame Cathedral no longer feels ancient.
But, surprisingly, that doesn’t matter as much as I thought it would. I’m so impressed by the skill employed to rebuild the cathedral in less than five years, that I didn’t mind the newness.
Finding Your Way Around the Cathedral
The first challenge upon entering the cathedral is jockeying for position at the start of the nave to snap a picture without heads in the way. Everyone is holding a phone aloft to take the same picture, and of course I do too.
Once the first pictures are taken, it’s time to being the slow shuffle up the left aisle to the front of the cathedral and back down the other side. It’s slow going with plenty of bottlenecks, but whatever. That just provides more time for more snapping of photos of the columns and arches from every angle.
In the side chapels on the left aisle are hung several modern works, most notably one by Matisse. Another highlight are the beautiful stained glass windows. I can’t even being to imagine how they were salvaged and then restored.
At the transept are the two giant rose windows. Both glow with restored vigor, their colors dancing off the white pillars.
What’s That Smell?
As I make the slow progress around the perimeter of the cathedral, I become aware of a lingering scent of burning. Usually, cathedrals smell of old stone.
The “new” Notre-Dame Cathedral smells of fire, a fitting reminder of its trauma.
Restoration Project Displays
After touring the cathedral, take a stroll along the street immediately to the left of the cathedral as you face it. Giant billboards document the restoration work with pictures and enough startling stats to keep you in awe. It’s heartening to witness the results of hundreds of skilled workers coming together with a common purpose.
The “new” Notre-Dame Cathedral restored my faith in humanity’s ability to accomplish great things with astonishing skill and dedication.
Tours of Notre-Dame Cathedral
If you’re not lucky like I was and can’t get last-minute tickets to enter Notre-Dame without lining up, consider one of these GetYourGuide guided tours. You’ll learn all about the history of this iconic cathedral along with information about the terrible fire and the remarkable restoration.
My latest go-to place to stay in Paris is the Citadines Saint-Germain-des-Prés Paris. You can’t beat the location right on the Seine and steps from Boulevard Saint-Michel.
The rooms are almost spacious (by Parisian standards) and include a tiny kitchen and a work area. Free coffee is available 24/7 in the lobby which is staffed with helpful people.
Conclusion
Have you visited Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris since its restoration and re-opening? Drop your suggestions for other travelers in the Comments below.
lf you love art, visit The Hague to tour two excellent museums—the Mauritshuis and M. C. Escher in the Palace. The museums are within a few minutes’ walk of each other and easily toured in an afternoon.
Drop into The Hague for a quick visit en route to elsewhere in The Netherlands, or stay the night. I chose to spend the night, which gave me the chance to wander around the mostly deserted (but safe) streets after dark.
This post describes some of my favorite exhibits in the two museums and includes recommendations for places to stay in The Hague and tours to nearby attractions.
The Hague Overview
The Hague (AKA Den Haag) is not a heavily touristed city, certainly not on the level of Amsterdam with its canals and gift shops and hordes of visitors. Instead, The Hague consists of ultra-modern skyscrapers and a compact oldish section with a smattering of outdoor cafés and an attractive wide canal that features a fountain.
On your way to the two museums, you’ll stroll through the park that lines the canal across from which is a palace. Most of the people you’ll encounter will be locals, many relaxing on the benches and enjoying the sunshine on clear days.
I visited in early April when the air was chilly enough to need a scarf and the planters bristled with daffodils and tulips, but the sky was blue and the vibe very relaxed.
At the end of the canal sits the lovely Mauritshuis, an exquisite example of Dutch architecture. To the left of the Mauritshuis, a short stroll through the park, is Escher in the Palace.
Mauritshuis
The Mauritshuis in The Hague is truly world-class. I’d go so far as to say its collection of Dutch and Flemish masterpieces is even more compelling than that of the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam. The collections are certainly a lot more accessible and easier to enjoy.
I love the Rijksmuseum, but its Gallery of Honor, where the most famous paintings are located, is so crowded that you sometimes need to wait for quite a while before you can get close enough to admire a particular masterpiece.
Not so at the Mauritshuis. The elegant building dates from the 17th century and was once the home of Count Johan Maurits of Nassau-Siegen who was the governor of the Dutch colony in Brazil. The museum’s name, “Mauritshuis”, translates to “Maurits’s house.” The building was established as a museum in 1822, and then extensively renovated and expanded over the years.
Entering the Mauritshuis Museum
You realize the Mauritshuis is special from the moment you enter. Descend a staircase (or take the elevator) from street level to emerge into a large and airy foyer complete with gift shop (of course) and ticket office.
The museum has recently undergone a face lift, and you get the feeling that everything is state-of-the-art. The museum’s website (https://www.mauritshuis.nl/en) bears this out; it’s a wonderful resource to accompany your visit to the museum.
Getting Tickets to Mauritshuis
I’d purchased a ticket in advance and I recommend you do as well. When I arrived about half an hour before the time on my ticket, there was no lineup to buy on-the-day tickets, but by the time I left, the lineup was quite long. To be on the safe side, go with tickets.
You can purchase tickets directly from the museum’s website or through GetYourGuide. Here’s an option:
With ticket in hand, mount the stairs from the below-street-level foyer to the ground floor of the museum, which features exhibits related to the first owner. The house itself has been beautifully renovated, so you feel like you’re not only checking out an awesome collection from the Golden Age of Flemish masterpieces, but also getting an idea of what a 17th-century Dutch mansion looked like inside.
Interior of the Mauritshuis Museum in The Hague
You then begin a joyful stroll through a world-class collection featuring some of the best of Dutch painting from the 16th and 17th centuries.
Here are some of my favorite pieces.
Still Life with Cheeses, Almonds and Pretzels by Clara Peeters
Still Life with Cheeses, Almonds and Pretzels, Clara Peeters, c. 1615
I’ve recently discovered the work of Flemish artist Clara Peeters, and I am smitten. She takes the still life genre to a whole new level with her stunning depictions of objects and food. From Antwerp, Peeters is one of the best-known female Flemish artists working professionally in the 17th century. She was well known for the depictions of still-life paintings with food.
The Mauritshuis exhibits at least two of her paintings. This one features bread and cheese, pretzels and almonds rendered with a precision and warmth that is mind boggling. And if you look really, really closely at the pewter rim of the jug, you’ll see a reflection of Clara’s face. How cool is that?
Check out the cracks in the large slab of cheese that dominates the picture and marvel at how she depicts the shine on the glass goblet. There is an elegance to Peeters’ work that is rare, even among the many still life painters of the period.
In a room full of other still life paintings, her work stands out by a mile.
Homer Dictating his Verses by Rembrandt
Homer Dictating his Verses, Rembrandt, 1663
One entire room in the Mauritshuis is dedicated to displaying the work of Rembrandt, probably the most famous Dutch painter from the period. I was drawn to this painting as an excellent example of how Rembrandt excelled in the depiction of light and shadow.
The expression on Homer’s face is almost desperate, as if he knows he’s on his last legs and wants to dictate his stories before it’s too late. The way paint is so thickly applied to depict the folds and furrows of his face is almost modern. I’m strangely reminded of the work of Lucien Freud.
The room also features the large painting entitled Anatomy Lessons of Dr. Nicolaes, which is quite a bit more famous than the Homer one judging by the tour groups clustered in front of it.
The Mauritshuis is home to one of the most famous paintings from the Dutch Golden Age: Girl With a Pearl Earring by Johannes Vermeer. She is undoubtedly the star of the show, and no wonder.
According to the Mauritshuis website, the painting is not a portrait, but a ‘tronie’, which is a painting of an imaginary figure or certain type of character. The girl is dressed exotically and wears a large (probably too large?) pearl in her ear. She looks over her shoulder at us, alluring and innocent at the same time.
I’ve been a Vermeer fan for years. He has quite the knack for capturing a moment in time that is poignant and also celebratory of the ordinary.
I’ve seen pictures of Girl with a Pearl Earring for decades (and read Tracey Chevalier’s marvelous novel) and wondered if seeing the real thing would be worth the trek to The Hague.
The answer? Absolutely! The “real thing” glows with a kind of internal power that cannot be duplicated. The color is more intense and yet more subtle than any reproduction. No wonder it’s mobbed!
Man Offering Money to a Young Woman by Judith Leyster
Man Offering Money to a Young Woman, Judith Leyster, 1631
Judith Leyster is another female artist from the period who is finally gaining the renown she deserves. The man is trying to buy her attention, but the woman works on, oblivious to his charms as she concentrates solely on her work.
The broad brushstrokes used by Leyster are very like those used by her most famous compatriot, Franz Hals. There is a looseness to her work that feels almost modern and very alive.
Kitchen Interior by David Teniers the Younger
Kitchen Interior by David Teniers the Younger, 1644
Some of my favorite paintings in the Mauritshuis are those depicting everyday life during the period. As an historical novelist, I really value these paintings as source material that give me a glimpse into what life was like back in the day.
This kitchen scene is replete with cool details, from the dead hare below the swan, the bowl of fruit, the mom looking exhausted as she peels apples, the boy holding the plate to receive the peeled apples and the dog in the middle of it all.
The various foods in the painting represent the four elements: the fish in the bottom right for water, the roasts in the background for fire, the game below the swan pie for earth, and the birds hanging above the woman for air.
Other Works in the Mauristhuis
Several other very famous works are included in the collection, including works by still life artist Rachael Ruysch (another one of my faves), Franz Hals, Peter Paul Rubens, and Jacob van Ruisdael, to name just a few.
You’ll also find The Goldfinch by Carel Fabritius.
As mentioned, one of the best things about this lovely gem of a museum is its compact size. While it’s chock-a-block full of great art, it doesn’t feel overwhelming. The rooms are small, the crowds very manageable, and there’s enough variety and famous images to keep you thoroughly engaged.
M. C. Escher in the Palace
Escher in the Palace is the second must-see museum in the Hague, especially for fans of the work of Maurits Corenlis Escher (AKA M. C. Escher), a 20th century master of perspective and illusion.
Never heard of Escher? Go the museum anyway! It’s very safe to say that anyone even remotely interested in art will be captivated by both the palace and its extensive collection of work by M. C. Escher.
It’s also a great place for kids, with some interactive displays and artwork that is sure to fascinate young minds.
Overview of Escher in The Palace
Housed in the former palace of Queen Emma, the Queen Mother to Queen Wilhelmina, the museum is really a two-for-the-price-of-one attraction. Not only do you tour several rooms on three floors filled with Escher’s works, but you also get an insight into opulent royal life. On the Escher in the Palace website, you can take a virtual tour of the museum.
M. C. Escher’s works give new meaning to the term “optical illusion”. They are astonishing and very well known. You’re likely to have seen such masterpieces as Belvedere and Hand with Reflecting Sphere (see below), both of which have been extensively reproduced.
If you went to college in the 1970s or 1980s, you probably saw Escher prints on a dorm wall or two.
Getting Tickets for Escher in the Palace
You shouldn’t have any trouble just walking into the palace and purchasing tickets, but if you like to plan ahead, here’s an option from GetYourGuide:
Following is an overview of a few of my favorite works in the collection. These are just the tip of the iceberg. You’ll find over 120 Escher prints in Escher in the Palace, enough to keep you fascinated for a good hour or more.
Belvedere
Belvedere, lithograph by M. C. Escher, 1958
I once made the mistake of buying a jigsaw puzzle of this piece. It did not go well. Although the image looks like it would be easy to put together, it was not. I ended up doing something I almost never do: abandoning the puzzle and then giving it away.
Belvedere is one of the most famous examples of an Escher work showing a three-dimensional building that is drawn on a flat surface but cannot exist in real life. As you look at it, you’re challenged to figure out what is possible and what is not. You could spend a lot of time looking at this image and trying to trace your way up or down a staircase. Good luck!
Convex and Concave
Convex and Concave, lithograph by M. C. Escher, 1955
Here’s another eye twister that will keep you up at night. The image is Escher’s depiction of daily life in a Mediterranean town (never seen a town like this!).
On the left side, you look down on the life and on the right, you look up from below. It’s an impossible space, but it’s really hard to stop looking at it and trying to trace a way through.
Lizards
Regular division drawing with lizards, no. 25 by M. C. Escher, 1939
While I love Escher’s weird scenes and buildings, it’s Escher’s drawings of critters (particularly lizards) that really intrigue me. I could look at them for hours. The precision with which he renders the lizards and the way they overlap and interact is astonishing. You’ll also find plenty of other animal drawings, particularly of birds and insects.
Metamorphosis
Don’t miss the rooms containing some of Escher’s famous metamorphosis works. In these, Escher created a series of changing shapes, using many of his favorite forms such as reptiles, fish, insects, and birds.
A highlight is this large round piece in the center of one of the rooms. Walk around and around it to get the full effect and marvel at how Escher makes the transitions between forms so that you barely realize there is a transition until suddenly you’re looking at a fish when moments before you were looking at a horse.
Remarkable!
Large Metamorphosis piece by M. C. Escher
After you’ve toured Escher in the Palace, stop into the stylish gift shop. The attendants there were really friendly and helpful. I bought a gorgeous cashmere scarf, which I needed in the chilly April air. Note that the Netherlands is not particularly warm in the spring!
Staying in the Hague
I suggest staying in the city centre as close to the two museums as possible. I stayed at the Boutique Hotel Corona which was in an excellent location, although the room was a bit on the small side.
Other Attractions in the Hague
If you’re traveling with children, I highly recommend you go to Madurodam. I first visited way back in 1970s on my epic trip to Europe with my mom. We spent hours wandering around the miniature worlds. In the 1990s, I returned with my then-eight-year-old daughter who adored the place. The park has grown a lot since then with plenty of attractions to keep you engaged.
Here are a few tour options in The Hague from GetYourGuide:
Heading to northern Italy? Consider spending time in lovely Verona, which has plenty to see beyond its connection to Romeo and Juliet.
The city’s central location makes it an excellent home base for touring this beautiful region of Italy. You’ll also discover plenty of opportunities for artsy sightseeing.
The top things to see in Verona include the Roman Arena, Piazza delle Erbe, and the medieval Castelvecchio Bridge. Also visit the Roman Theatre, climb to Piazzale Castel San Pietro for the best views, and explore the Duomo, Piazza dei Signori, and Giardino Giusti. And for a quick tourist-trap experience and if the crowd’s aren’t too large, pop into Juliet’s House for a quick look. One day is enough to see Verona’s highlights, but two days lets you enjoy museums, Verona’s Roman sites, and a relaxed walk along the Adige River.
Here are the top ten attractions in Verona. Read on for more Zoe’s more detailed descriptions.
1. Verona Arena (Arena di Verona): This remarkably preserved Roman amphitheater is Verona’s greatest monument. Step inside to appreciate its scale, stone craftsmanship, and the sense of history that still energizes the space—especially during summer opera performances.
2. Castelvecchio Museum & Ponte Scaligero: Castelvecchio offers Verona’s richest artistic experience, with Gothic and Renaissance masterpieces set in Carlo Scarpa’s masterful museum design. Stroll across the adjoining Scaliger Bridge for dramatic views of the Adige.
3. Basilica of San Zeno Maggiore: A Romanesque masterpiece, San Zeno glows with warm Verona stone and houses Mantegna’s renowned San Zeno Altarpiece, one of the most important early Renaissance works in northern Italy.
4. Verona Cathedral (Duomo Complex): The Duomo’s layered architecture—Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance—reflects centuries of religious history. Inside, Titian’s Assumption of the Virgin and the peaceful cloister reward slow, attentive looking.
5. Roman Theatre & Archaeological Museum. Clinging to a hillside overlooking the river, the Roman Theatre is both ancient and atmospheric. The adjacent museum displays mosaics, sculpture, and artifacts that illuminate Verona’s Roman past.
6. Piazza delle Erbe: Verona’s most evocative square blends Roman columns, medieval towers, and frescoed palazzi. It’s the perfect place to absorb the city’s layers of history while enjoying the lively market atmosphere.
7. Piazza dei Signori: Once Verona’s political center, this elegant Renaissance square feels refined and contemplative. Dante’s statue presides over the space, evoking the city’s literary connections and scholarly spirit.
8. Giardino Giusti: These Renaissance gardens offer a peaceful retreat with cypress-lined paths, grottoes, and panoramic terraces. Their balanced geometry has long inspired writers, musicians, and travelers.
9. Castel San Pietro Viewpoint: Climb or take the funicular to Verona’s most breathtaking viewpoint. From here, the city’s rooftops, bridges, and river curve create a beautifully composed, painterly panorama.
10. Juliet’s House (Casa di Giulietta): A lighthearted final stop, Juliet’s House offers a quick look at the balcony, the courtyard, and the many notes left by visitors. It’s iconic, but best enjoyed after the city’s more substantial artistic and historic highlights.
Zoe’s Experience in Verona
For those wondering what to see in Verona, the city offers a variety of historical and cultural attractions that go beyond the famous love story.
When most people think of “fair” Verona, they typically think of Shakespeare’s play Romeo and Juliet.
Two households, both alike in dignity (In fair Verona, where we lay our scene), From ancient grudge break to new mutiny, Where civil blood makes civil hands unclean. (Prologue.1–4)
But when I recently stayed in Verona for a week on a house exchange, it wasn’t the romantic story of Romeo and Juliet that I had in mind.
It was interested in the city’s real history. For me, that’s the true romance of Verona.
History of Verona
Thanks to its location along the Adige River in the Veneto region of northern Italy, Verona has been inhabited since prehistoric times. It became a Roman town in the 3rd century B.C. and was one of the most important Italian cities during the Roman era.
Because of its strategic location on the river, Verona was used as a base for overseeing the northern territories and was at the intersection of many important roads.
Today, everywhere you look, the city teems with Roman art and architecture.
But that’s not all. Medieval Verona is equally represented, with its many artifacts woven seamlessly throughout the city. Add the city’s Renaissance and Baroque masterpieces, and this art-historical wonderland is complete.
No wonder Verona is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Arrival in Verona
My first experience with the city of Verona was at night. We arrived after taking the train directly from Venice, an hour away. We then took an Uber to our house exchange on the left bank of the Adige River.
After settling in, we went in search of a restaurant.
We walked across the Ponte Vittoria (Victory Bridge) and, in five minutes, found ourselves right in the middle of Piazza Brà, otherwise known as tourist central.
The piazza was packed, and the energy electric. We quickly found an outdoor table across from Verona’s famous Roman arena and ordered—what else—pizza!
Piazza Brà Restaurants
What to See in Verona
Following is an overview of the places I visited during my week in Verona. While you can see quite a lot of the city in a day, slow down and consider spending a full week, or at least two or three full days. Verona has a lot to offer the traveler interested in art and architecture and just slowing down to savor one of Italy’s loveliest cities.
The Verona Arena
The most prominent reminder of Verona’s Roman past is the Arena di Verona. This must-see attraction was built in 30 AD (forty years before the Colosseum in Rome). The ancient Romans staged deadly gladiator and animal fights here—an entertainment staple throughout the Roman world.
Verona Arena, 30 AD
In the following centuries, as was the medieval custom, the arena became a rich source for the construction materials needed to create new buildings in the city.
The structure we see today is the result of this constant scavenging and a devastating 12th-century earthquake.
The arena has been in continual use over the centuries. In the Middle Ages, judicial disputes were resolved by hand-to-hand combat here, and until the 18th century, this was the site of jousts and tournaments.
Today, the arena is the setting for Verona’s world-famous opera season.
Piazza Brà
The Piazza Brà is the main square in the center of Verona. (The term bra is derived from the German word breit, which means broad.) It’s one of Italy’s largest piazzas and is an ideal spot for people-watching.
The welcoming, open space is paved with pink marble and lined with restaurants, majestic historical buildings, and the picturesque Portoni della Brà (Gates of the Bra).
The Portoni della Piazza Brà archways are embedded in Verona’s medieval walls, connecting the city to the suburban countryside at the time.
Verona Tourist Office
The tourist office is located in the Piazza Brà. Here you can buy tickets for the Hop-on-Hop-off bus to explore Verona or book other city tours.
When I was younger, I had nothing but disdain for tourists who chose to explore a city in such a superficial manner. Now, I’ve realized that a bus tour an excellent way to quickly get the big picture, find your favorite points of interest, and save your feet for the main events—museums, churches, castles, and ruins.
Taking a bus tour helps you decide what to see in Verona. Here are some tours from Tiqets.com to consider:
Porta Borsari
Not far from the Piazza Brà stands the impressive Porta Borsari(the Borsari Gate). Built in the 1st century AD, it was the primary entrance to the city in Roman times.
It was here that medieval tax collectors charged tariffs on goods entering and exiting the city; hence the gate’s name, which roughly translates to “the money purse gate.”
On the other side of the gate is the Corso Porta Borsari, an ancient Roman street. Now, it’s a charming pedestrian shopping district known for its shoe stores.
Porta Borsari, 1st Century AD
Via Mazzini
Another ancient street—Via Mazzini—is slightly beyond the Porta Dei Borsari. The buildings on either side of this marbled walkway house Verona’s most elegant shops.
Although these stores sell the latest fashions, they’re rooted—as is everywhere in Verona—in the past (literally).
A good example of this is the Benetton store. Its ground floor is covered in glass so you can see the 1st-century Roman domus (home) excavated beneath it.
Piazza delle Erbe
Both Via Mazzini and Corso Porta Borsari lead to the rectangular Piazza delle Erbe (Plaza of Herbs), originally the site of the Roman Forum.
This bustling square, surrounded by historic buildings, is now home to an open-air market, continuing one of the ancient forum’s traditional functions.
Outdoor market stall in the Piazza delle Erbe
Three historic relics adorn the middle length of the piazza: the Capitello, Madonna di Verona, and The Winged Lion of St. Mark.
Capitello
The Capitello (Capital) is a 13th-century canopied podium used in the Middle Ages to swear in magistrates.
Madonna di Verona
The Madonna di Verona (My Lady of Verona) fountain is named for the Roman sculpture it supports. In 1368, the original statue that had inhabited the piazza since the 1st century was restored, given a crown, and placed atop a fountain.
This was at the peak of Verona’s medieval political power, and the sculpture was intended to personify the great city.
Winged Lion of St. Mark
A tall marble column supports the winged lion of St. Mark. The sculpture was erected in 1523 as an emblem of the Venice Republic, which ruled Verona from the 15th to the 18th century.
Casa Mazzanti
Another art historical find in the Piazza delle Erbe is the painted façade of theCase Mazzanti(Mazzanti Houses), originally the residence of the powerful della Scala family, who ruled Verona during its medieval heydays.
In 16th- and 17th-century Verona, the palace facades of the city’s most prominent families were often entirely decorated with frescoes, so much so that Verona was nicknamed the painted city.
Unfortunately, many of these paintings did not survive, were plastered over, or were detached from their walls and exhibited in museums.
One of the best-preserved examples, and still in its original location, is Case Mazzanti, painted by Alberto Cavalli, a collaborator of the Mannerist painter Giulio Romano. It’s easy to see the influence of Michelangelo’s muscular style in these monumental frescoes.
Palazzo Maffei
At the northwest end of the piazza, the Palazzo Maffei (Maffei Palace) provides a grand theatrical finale to the entire space. The original building dates back to the 14th century but was completely redesigned into a sumptuous Baroque mansion in the 17th century.
Today, the palazzo houses the Casa Museo (House Museum) art collection and a fabulous restaurant—the Ristorante Maffei. The museum was closed when we were there, but we were able to eat a delicious lunch between the grand Baroque columns of its elegant courtyard.
Verona’s Roman Theater and Archaeological Museum
From the Palazzo Maffei, we wandered the narrow streets to the picturesque Ponte Pietra (Stone Bridge)—first built in Roman times but rebuilt often since. Crossing the bridge, we came to Verona’s restored Roman theater, dating to the 1st century AD and still used today.
An impressive archaeological museum nestles in the hillside high above the theater in what used to be a fifteenth-century Jesuit monastery.
It’s a steep climb on uneven steps to get to the museum, but it’s worth it for those who like ancient art and a stunning historic setting.
Archaeological Museum
Here are two interesting exhibits in the Archaeological Museum: an ancient Greek rhyton (drinking cup) from the 4th century BC and the torso of a Roman soldier.
Verona’s Piazza dei Signori
Returning across the Ponte Pietra, we came upon the Piazza dei Signori (Plaza of the Lords) with its statue of Dante in the center.
The sculpture was commissioned in 1863 to honor the 600th anniversary of Dante’s birth. Dante lived in Verona for seven years after his exile from Florence. Verona’s oldest café is also in this piazza. It named itself Caffè Dante after the Dante monument was installed. We didn’t eat at Caffè Dante, but I wish we had!
Shown below is the Piazza dei Signori. The Caffè Dante is to the left; the sculpture of Dante is in the center, and the Loggia del Consiglio is to the right.
Palazzo della Ragione and Loggia del Consiglio
The piazza is surrounded by splendid buildings that began in the Middle Ages. The Palazzo della Ragione (Town Hall) was built by the powerful della Scala family mentioned earlier.
They ruled Verona during the 13th and 14th centuries—a time of significant economic and cultural achievement for the city.
The palace had four towers in medieval times, but only one remains today—the breathtaking 275-foot-high Torre dei Lamberti(Lamberti Tower).
On the north side of the Piazza dei Signori stands the 15th-century Loggia del Consiglio (Loggia of the Council)—a classic example of Early Renaissance design. The figures on top represent famous Verona citizens.
The two buildings offer a sharp contrast of styles. While the medieval town hall incorporated soaring towers into its overall design to sweep you off your feet, the Renaissance loggia appeals more to the rational mind with its harmonious balance of horizontals and verticals.
The Church and Cemetery of Santa Maria Antica, Verona
Tucked around the corner down a narrow street from the Piazza dei Signori is the little 12th-century church of Santa Maria Antica, which became the della Scala family church.
The sarcophagus and equestrian statue of Cangrande I adorn the church façade above the door.
Cangrande I was the most significant figure of the della Scala family. He protected Dante while in exile and was acclaimed as a great warrior and powerful autocrat who was Verona’s sole ruler from 1311 until he died in 1329.
Next to the church is the della Scala family cemetery with imposing Gothic tombs that almost overshadow the church itself.
Below is the Tomb of Cansignorio della Scala (who ruled Verona from 1359 to 1375). Like his more famous predecessor, Cangrande I, he’s depicted on horseback in full armor.
This is the most richly decorated tomb in the cemetery with the elaborate cast of characters on its base–warrior saints, Gospel figures, the Virtues, and the Apostles–even more impressive than the statue itself.
Dinner and a View
After an exhilarating and exhausting day of sightseeing, a relaxing dinner in a beautiful location is always welcome. With this in mind, we dined one evening at the Re TeodoricoBar and Restaurant near Piazzale Castel San Pietro on San Pietro Hill overlooking the Adige River.
The hill has been inhabited since the beginning of Roman times, and the restaurant has been there for sixty years. The views from this spot are spectacular, and the food outstanding.
Re Teodorico Bar
Re Teodorico view
Verona’s Castelvecchio
The della Scala family adorned Verona not only with magnificent tombs but also a magnificent castle.
The Castelvecchio is a massive fortress built next to the Adige River from 1354 to 1355 during the reign of Cangrande I.
The fortified structure even spans the river, providing the castle inhabitants with a protected escape. Today, everyone can “escape” across this carefully reconstructed and gracefully arched Ponte di Castel Vecchio, a pedestrian bridge.
Civico Museo d’Arte
The castle interior has been restored and transformed into bright exhibit spaces that include the collections of the Civico Museo d’Arte.
Paintings
The collection features sculptures and decorative arts in addition to paintings by Bellini, Rubens, Montagna, Guardi, Tiepolo, Tintoretto, Pisano, and artists of the 15th- and 16th-century Veronese school.
The detail below is from a painting called Madonna dell’ombrello (Madonna of the Umbrella), created by Girolamo dai Libri (Girolamo of books). Besides being a painter of large-scale works, he was also a manuscript illuminator, which explains his name and his ability to paint such beautiful, meticulous details.
You can see the complete painting below. Although Girolamo is not known as one of the Renaissance greats, I find this piece captivating.
Madonna of the Umbrella, 1530, by Girolamo dai Libri, Castelvecchio, Verona. Photo source: Wikimedia Commons
Statues
Outside on the castle grounds stands the original equestrian sculpture of Cangrande I—a Gothic art masterpiece.
Although Cangrande was christened Can Francesco, his nickname—”big dog” in Italian—probably came from his physical and mental prowess. This nickname also explains the large dog-headed helmet with eagle wings that leans back on his shoulders in the sculpture.
But besides the elaborate helmet, the most striking thing about this artwork is Cangrande’s expression. Instead of looking serious or fierce, he appears to be resting between conflicts with a self-satisfied grin.
History remembers Cangrande as incredibly strong and brave in battle, but he was also known for his friendly and kind disposition. This sculpture, then, celebrates both the great warrior and the affable man.
In a corner tower of the castle’s raised walkways, you can also see the original equestrian monument of Mastino II. He came into power after Cangrande I died. Like his uncle, he’s shown in full armor. But instead of being relaxed, he’s prepared for a fight, his face hidden behind a helmet in the form of a winged mastiff. As with Cangrande I, the helmet references his name. Mastino means mastiff in Italian.
The Basilica of San Zeno, Verona
Leaving the Castelvecchio, we walked west along the Adige River until we came to a large 11th-12th-century basilica dedicated to San Zeno, the 4th-century Veronese Bishop and Patron Saint of Verona.
But let me digress here for a moment. Although I wrote at the beginning of this post that my focus for this trip was not Romeo and Juliet, tradition says this church is where they married. So, as it turns out, we did see one of Romeo and Juliet’s haunts (although not the famous balcony, and quite unintentionally).
The church of San Zeno (pictured in the center below) is flanked by its elegant campanile on the right and the Benedictine abbey on the left with its classic medieval defensive tower. The three make a striking architectural ensemble.
We accessed the church through a side entrance. The front portal stays shut to protect the massive interior bronze doors with their marvelously expressive Romanesque reliefs dating from the 11th to the 13th centuries. Here is a detail from the bronze door.
Along with its masterful bronze portals, the church interior includes an exquisite one-of-a-kind, 14th-century wooden roof and walls covered with frescoes from the 13th to the 15th centuries. Some of these frescoes have peeled away over time to reveal the earlier paintings underneath, making marvelously surreal images.
The pièce de résistance in this church is the elaborate 15th-century painting, Madonna with Saints, behind the high altar. Andrea Mantegna, one of the great artists of the Italian Renaissance, created this exquisitely detailed masterwork.
Verona FAQs
Here are some frequently asked questions about Verona:
How many days do you need in Verona?
Most travelers can see Verona’s major sights, including Arena, Juliet’s House, Castelvecchio, and the historic piazzas, in one full day. For museums, Roman sites, and leisurely walks, plan two days.
What is Verona best known for?
Verona is famous for its Roman Arena, one of Europe’s best-preserved amphitheaters; its Shakespearean associations with Romeo and Juliet; and its beautifully preserved medieval squares, churches, and bridges.
Is Juliet’s House worth visiting?
It’s very popular, and while the courtyard is often crowded, it’s worth a quick stop for its literary history. The small museum inside offers period rooms and exhibits, but the Balcony photo-op is the main draw. And yes, it’s tacky. But go if you’re a Shakespeare fan (and who isn’t!).
What are the best views in Verona?
The top viewpoint is Piazzale Castel San Pietro, reached by funicular or stairs. Another excellent spot is the Roman Theatre terrace, overlooking the river and bridges.
What should I see in Verona if I love art and history?
Don’t miss the Castelvecchio Museum, with Pisanello and Veronese works; the Duomo Complex; the Basilica of San Zeno, a Romanesque masterpiece; and the Roman Theatre and Archaeological Museum.
Staying in Verona
As I mentioned in the beginning, we did a house exchange in Verona, but our friends (seasoned travelers) recently stayed in Hotel Torcolo, located a few steps from the arena in the heart of the old town. They loved its location, antique charm, and a restaurant (pictured below) with great food and wine.
Torcolo Restaurant at the Hotel Torcolo
Here are some other options for staying in Verona:
Walking Trail with ClueGo
While in Verona, consider taking a ClueGo self-guided walking tour. At your own pace, you’ll follow a trail of stories and riddles that take you beyond Romeo and Juliet to discover a world of secrets, legends, and fun facts.
The cost is 17.99€/group with 1-5 players per group. Main stops include several of the places described in this post:
Castelvecchio Museum
Arena di Verona
Piazza Erbe
Arche Scaligere
Full disclosure: I have not yet taken ClueGo’s Verona trail myself but I think it sounds intriguing and worth trying. If you click on the link to purchase the trail, Artsy Traveler receives a small commission. Thank you.
Day Trip to Lake Garda
During a week stay in Verona, I suggest taking a day trip to beautiful Lake Garda. The train from Verona Porta Nuova train station to Desenanzo del Garda/Sirmione takes just 20 minutes. Check out the Artsy Traveler post on Sirmione.
Verona is a marvelously rich town on so many levels—the architecture, the art, the history, the landscape, the food, and, well, yes, the Romeo and Juliet lore!
Have you visited Verona? Share your recommendations for other artsy travelers in the Comments below.
Here are more posts about destinations in northern Italy:
Art masterpieces in Tuscany are as thick on the ground as grapes at harvest time.
When you visit Tuscany, you’ll enjoy la dolce vita, for sure, but in between sips of some of the world’s best wine, prepare to have your breath taken away by some of the world’s most cherished art.
Let’s face it, Tuscany is the perfect storm for art lovers with its stunning scenery, amazing food, tons of history, and world-class art.
In this post, I present a selection of the art masterpieces to consider including in your Tuscany travels—whether this is your first trip or your tenth (or somewhere in between). This guide is for you if you want to go beyond the obvious and enjoy Tuscany at a slower pace
Tuscany is one of Italy’s top destinations for art lovers, home to Renaissance masterpieces, iconic frescoes, world-class sculpture, and some awesome modern art. From Botticelli and Michelangelo to hidden gems in medieval hilltowns, this guide highlights the must-see artworks across Tuscany.
Top Masterpieces at a Glance
Paintings by Martini, da Vinci, Botticelli & Artemisia at the Uffizi in Florence
You’ll recognize some of the art included in this post, but others you may not be familiar with. I include both individual masterworks and art destinations in Tuscany.
A few of my suggested places are a fair way off the beaten path which means they won’t be crowded.
Organization
I’ve grouped the art by location:
Florence
Villa Demidoff (Outside Florence)
San Gimignano
Siena
Il Giardino dei Tarocchi near Grosseto
The map of Tuscany below shows the general locations of the pieces covered in this post. See individual places for more detailed maps.
My list is in no way exhaustive. Tuscany is chock-a-block with magnificent art, and to list all of them requires books, not blog posts. This list is a starting point to help you create your own perfect Tuscany itinerary.
Art in Florence
For many travelers to Tuscany, Florence, birthplace of the Italian Renaissance, is their only destination, which is a shame.
This wonderful city is worth visiting, and you’ll see amazing art galore, but it’s also extremely crowded and lacks the charm of other, smaller Tuscan towns, such as Siena and Lucca.
Duomo in Florence, Italy
That said, if you haven’t been to Florence, then you should include it on your itinerary. Stay at least two nights and preferably three or four.
You won’t run out of important works of art to enjoy.
Map of Florence
Florence is a very walkable and compact city. You can easily stroll between each of the main sites.
The Uffizi Gallery in Florence is masterpiece-central in Tuscany and a must-see. But be warned! You really, really need to make reservations for the Uffizi.
Don’t just show up hoping to walk right in. That is, unless you enjoy standing in long lines that move an inch a minute while all the people with pre-purchased tickets whisk by. It’s disheartening.
Here’s a ticket option for the Uffizi that includes a small group guided tour.
The Annunciation with St. Margaret and St. Ansanus by Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi (1333)
That’s a mouthful. I just call it Martini’s Annunciation. The subject of the annunciation—when the angel Gabriel flutters to earth and informs the Virgin Mary that she is to be the mother of Christ—was popular in medieval and Renaissance art.
I love this version by Martini and Memmi because of the expression on Mary’s face. She’s like, what? Seriously?
The Annunciation with St. Margaret and St. Ansanus by Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi (1333) [Public domain]
I’m also taken with the gold background and the flatness of the figures, a characteristic of 14th century art.
You’ll come across Martini’s Annunciation shortly after entering the Uffizi. A lot of people trudge right past it on a beeline for the more famous paintings by Botticelli, da Vinci, et al, but stop in the galleries of 14th-century paintings and spend some time.
You’ll be well rewarded and won’t be jostling for viewing room with thousands of selfie-stick wielders.
Annunciation by da Vinci
In later centuries, Annunciations, such as the famous one by Leonardo da Vinci below, look more realistic, but I like the energy and composition of the Martini one the best.
Since the art in the Uffizi is arranged chronologically, you’ll see da Vinci’s Annunciation after you view the Martini and Memmi version.
The Annunciation by Leonardo da Vinci: Public Domain
Birth of Venus by Botticelli (1485)
You’ve probably seen many reproductions of Botticelli’s Birth of Venus. The goddess of beauty and love arrives on the island of Cyprus, born of the sea spray and blown by the winds Zephyr and Aura (seen in the top left corner).
Venus perches on the edge of a giant scallop shell as goddesses are wont to do. She’s just so danged perfect.
I mean, look at that hair!
Birth of Venus by Sandro Botticelli: Public Domain
The room containing several paintings by Botticelli is generally really crowded. If possible, visit the Uffizi early or late in the day so you can swoon in relative solitude.
Other Works by Botticelli
In addition to Birth of Venus, you’ll also see Botticelli’s equally famous Primavera along with several more of his paintings exhibited in four consecutive rooms.
And once you’ve finished looking at the real things, you can buy them on just about every knick-knack known to humanity in the many gift shops lining the streets of the city.
Primavera mouse pad? Sure. Birth of Venus apron? Definitely.
Judith Beheading Holofernes (1620) by Artemisia Gentileschi
Hooray for Artemisia Gentileschi, one of the first recognized woman artists of the Baroque period. Several other women artists from the period (and earlier) have gained notice in recent years, but Artemisia is the one most people think of when asked to name a woman artist from back in the day.
She was also the first woman to be admitted to the Academy of Art and Design in Florence, which was no small feat at the time.
Artemisia’s painting of Judith beheading poor old Holofernes (hey, he deserved it) is an amazing work. Look at Judith’s muscles as she holds down Holofernes.
This subject was a favorite of the period, and male artists usually depicted Judith as a bit of an ethereal wimp. Not Artemisia. She doesn’t shy away from showing the sheer brute strength that Judith would need to saw the head off a man.
She and her maid are working hard!
Judith Beheading Holofernes (1620) by Artemisia Gentileschi: Public Domain
Two Amazing Davids in Florence
That’s Davids plural because in Florence you must see the super-famous David by Michelangelo as well as the not-quite-so-famous-but still-awesome David by Donatello.
Both Davids represent the Renaissance in different ways.
Michelangelo’s David
The most famous statue of David is the one created by Michelangelo and displayed in the Accademia, another place for which you must secure reservations or risk a long line-up.
David stands with magnificent insouciance at the end of a long hallway lined with other works by Michelangelo.
Some of these works are unfinished—human figures emerging half-formed from marble blocks. I like these works almost more than the finished sculptures because they show the process of turning blocks into humans.
Michelangelo’s David in the Accademia Gallery
When you finally work your way up to the front of the line and stand in front of David in all his naked glory, you’ll know what all the fuss is about.
He is magnificent.
Although sculpted from marble, the muscles and sinews appear to pulse with life. Every inch of him is perfection—a testament to the beauty and power of the human form.
I remember wandering around the back of him and staring up at a pair of buttocks that any gym rat would kill for. While thinking unholy thoughts, I was joined by a bevy of nuns. They weren’t speaking English, so I couldn’t understand what they were saying, but they were definitely smiling—and, truth be told, giggling.
Well, no wonder.
Here’s an topin for purchasing your timed-entry ticket to see Michelangelo’s David at the Accademia.
Donatello’s David at the marvelous Bargello Museum (reservations also recommended) might as well be a different species.
Where Michelangelo’s marble-carved David is tall, strong, and, let’s face it, hunky, Donatello’s bronze David is relaxed, laid-back, and kind of pretty.
He wears a hat festooned with flowers and leans on his sword, one hand on his hip. He’s like, come on Goliath, I dare ya to come at me.
Donatello’s David is famous for being the first free-standing bronze sculpture since antiquity.
The Bargello Museum—a former prison—includes many more wonderful artworks to enjoy, including sculptures by Benvenuto Cellini and works by Michelangelo, including his statue of Bacchus.
Fra Angelico at the Museo di San Marco
The Museo di San Marco is a little off the beaten path which means it’s not crowded—a relief in Florence.
The museum is housed in the former Dominican Monastery (called the Convento di San Marco) where Fra’ Angelico lived as a monk from 1436 to 1455 and painted his stunning frescoes.
Wander down the long corridor flanked on either side by the monk’s cells and stop at each cell to view Fra’ Angelico’s frescoes. I love the way he painted angel wings—very art deco-looking and colorful.
Annunciation by Fra Angelico in Cell 3: Public Domain
The museum contains numerous frescoes by Fra’ Angelico, including the magnificent fresco in the Chapter House and his famous version of the Annunciation located at the top of the stairs leading to the cells. As I mentioned, I’m partial to Annunciations, and Fra’ Angelico’s version is one of the best.
Savonarola: A Burning Tale
You can also peek into the cell once occupied by the infamous Savonarola, who preached vociferously against greed and luxury and denounced clerical corruption, despotic rule, and the exploitation of the poor.
Unfortunately for Savonarola, he went too far with his well-intended but over-the-top spectacles, including his Bonfires of the Vanities, and ended up hanged and burned in 1498.
Oops.
Brancacci Chapel
The attraction at the lovely Brancacci Chapel across the Arno in a quieter and less touristy area of Florence are the gorgeous frescoes by Masaccio and Masolino. The Chapel is located away from the tourist hordes and requires a pleasantly long walk through a Florentine neighborhood in which people actually live.
I stopped for lunch at a café with three tiny tables perched on the edge of the sidewalk and enjoyed being the only tourist in the vicinity.
I was entertained watching a group of well-heeled, impeccably dressed Florentine businessmen lunching nearby. Each man looked like he’d stepped straight out of one of the Renaissance frescoes in the Brancacci Chapel.
Substitute business suits for tights and cloaks and not much has changed.
The Healing of Tabitha by Masolino at the Brancacci Chapel: Public Domain
Admission to the Brancacci Chapel is limited so purchase your tickets in advance. Tickets from this site let you skip the line, and provide a video guide.
You’ll be struck by the vivid colors in the Masaccio and Masolino frescoes commissioned in 1424. The Expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise is especially evocative.
Palazzo Davanzati
Tour this medieval palazzo to discover what life was like for wealthy people in the early Renaissance. I had a great visit even though the guided tour was in Italian.
It didn’t matter; I could still get a good idea of how people lived.
A highlight is the painted walls in many of the rooms. When I was writing my first novel, The Towers of Tuscany, I often envisioned the layout of the rooms in the Palazzo Davanzati as I wrote.
Here’s an option for a private guided tour of the Palazzo Davanzati, which would be well worth your time if you are interested in how rich people lived seven hundred-odd years ago.
Treat yourself to a refreshing walk through these beautiful gardens with spectacular views over Florence and the Tuscan countryside.
The beautifully green Boboli Gardens
When it’s hot (as it often is in the summer), do yourself a favor and escape the crush of tour groups in the center of the city and take a taxi across the Arno to the Boboli Gardens.
Florence overflows with interesting museums and churches and artwork to keep you busy for days.
And don’t forget shopping! Florence is the place in Tuscany to buy leather goods (although they can be cheaper in Siena but without as much choice).
Tours in Florence
Here are some Get Your Guide tour options in Florence.
By Air: Fly into Florence’s Amerigo Vespucci Airport (FLR), 20–30 minutes from the historic center by taxi or tram.
By Train: High-speed trains connect Florence Santa Maria Novella station with Rome, Milan, Venice, and Bologna.
By Car: Limited ZTL zones make driving difficult—park outside the center and use trams or walk.
Villa Demidoff – Outside Florence
In the gardens of the Villa Demidoff in Pratolino, about ten kilometers north of Florence in the beautiful Tuscan countryside, you can visit the aptly named Colossus. A seated figure that appears to be half rock, half man broods on an outcropping above a pond.
I adore this statue!
It’s just so darned unexpected. We visited a hot summer’s day and were captivated. The 35-foot tall Colossus is a colossal (ha!) statue created in the late 1500s by the Italian sculptor Giambologna.
Colossus at the Villa Demidoff
Despite his size, Colossus looks quite melancholy, as if he wished he could rise from the rocks keeping him captive and clomp off to a quiet grove where no one would take selfies with him.
Inside Colossus are various chambers.
Other Sites in the Gardens
The gardens are home to several more interesting features, including the hexagonal Chapel of Buontalenti, a fantastic dragon sculpture behind Colossus, the Cupid’s grotto, and the fountain of Jupiter.
The park is open every weekend from April to October, and admission is free. Before you go, check opening times on the park website.
For a good day out, rent a car and drive north to enjoy the park and the surrounding area, then have dinner in Fiesole while watching the sun set over Florence in the valley below.
You can also take a bus to Pratolino: catch the ATAF bus #25A from Piazza San Marco – the “A” is important. SITA also offers service to Pratolino from the main stop in SMN Piazza Stazione and CAP, with stops on Via Nazionale in Florence.
Villa Demidoff (Pratolino) – Getting There
By Bus: From Florence, take ATAF bus 25A toward Pratolino; get off at “Parco di Pratolino.”
By Car: A 25–30 minute drive north of Florence on the Via Bolognese (SS65). Free parking at the park entrance.
Tip: The park is open seasonally—check hours before going.
Art Masterpieces in Siena
Hands down, Siena is my favorite city in Tuscany. I never tire of wandering its narrow streets and then emerging, dazzled by the sun, into the Piazza del Campo—or Il Campo.
Called the most beautiful living room in Italy, Il Campo takes my breath away every time.
The breathtaking Campo
The first time I went to Siena by myself, I was so overcome with emotion by finally making it to the Campo, where several important scenes in my novel The Towers of Tuscany take place, that I dropped to my knees, lay down on my back, and took a selfie.
Relaxing on the 14th-century bricks of the Campo in Siena
Fortunately, no one batted an eye. Several people were doing the same, their backs warmed by bricks laid in the 1330s, not long before the Black Death carried away half of the medieval city’s population.
Siena is very compact, which is a good thing because the only way to get around is by walking. Fortunately, you can stroll between the two major sites–the cathedral and the palazzo publicco in just a few minutes. Use the map below to orient yourself.
I single out the Piccolomini Library as one of two must-see masterpieces in Siena, but really, the entire cathedral (also known as the Duomo) is worth a half-day of your touring time.
You can skip the line by buying your tickets ahead. Your ticket is also good for the baptistery, crypt, and the Opera museum—all must-sees.
Cathedral Square and Duomo
Cathedral of Siena
A superb example of the Gothic Roman style in Italy, the Cathedral (the Duomo) is full of treasures. Marvel at the Duomo’s indoor and outdoor alternating stripes in white and greenish-black marble.
Black and white are the symbolic colors of Siena.
Unlike the sparse interiors of some cathedrals in Italy, the interior of the Duomo is fantastically decorated.
Overlooking the Duomo
Look for the statue of St. John the Baptist by Donatello to the right after the Piccolomini Library, the rose window by Duccio di Buoninsegna, and the marble pulpit by Nicola Pisano, along with many gorgeous frescoes.
One of the most beautiful parts of the cathedral is its floor. You can spend hours wandering around the huge mosaics to “read” the stories.
The fifty-six etched and inlaid marble panels were designed between 1369 and 1547 by forty leading artists.
Piccolomini Library
And then there’s the Piccolomini Library itself. This place was a surprise to me. I hadn’t heard of it and so was in for a treat when I entered and had the breath knocked out of me (figuratively speaking).
Ceiling in the Piccolomini Library
The library is dedicated to Enea Silvio Piccolomini, an immensely powerful man in the mid 1400s who was elected Pope Pius II in 1458.
The big draw in the library are the frescoes by Pinturicchio.
Each of the ten scenes representing important stages in the life of Pope Pius II is exquisitely painted. The colors, perspective, figures, and backgrounds are incredibly detailed and evocative of their time. I was mesmerized.
Maestà Altarpiece by Duccio di Buoninsegna
While you’re hanging around the Duomo, don’t miss the Opera museum (it’s part of your ticket) so you can admire the Maestà altarpiece by Duccio di Buoninsegna that was commissioned by the cathedral in 1311.
I like the altarpiece because it’s gorgeous and because it makes a cameo appearance in my novel, The Towers of Tuscany.
Central panel of the Maestà, 1308–1311, by Duccio di Buoninsegna. Museo dell’Opera metropolitana del Duomo, Italy
Palazzo Pubblico
You can’t miss the Palazzo Pubblico in Il Campo. The much-photographed red brick palazzo that looks like a child’s drawing of a castle has become one of the most recognized views in Siena. I’ve taken my share of photos of it and the adjacent Torre Mangia.
Palazzo Pubblico
The Palazzo Pubblico dates from the early 14th century and played an important role in ensuring Siena enjoyed relative peace from the late 13th century to 1355.
While you tour the Museo Civico, read about the “Government of the Nine”, the system of government that consisted of nine representatives of the people elected from the middle class and not from the noble families. This relatively democratic form of government was responsible for commissioning many civic works of art in the first half of the 14th century.
Museo Civico – Torre Mangia
The Museo Civico is located on the first floor of the Palazzo Pubblico, which still functions as Siena’s city hall.
Enter the courtyard called the Cortile del Podestà to access the Museo Civico and, if you’re feeling energetic, climb the 400 steps to the top of the Torre Mangia.
The view is spectacular, but the narrow staircase is claustrophobic and, in the summer, very hot. I’ve climbed the Torre Mangia once and do not feel the need to do so again.
Frescoes in Sala del Mappamondo
There are plenty of interesting things to look at in the Museo Civico, but the big draw are the frescoes by Simone Martini and Ambrogio Lorenzetti.
The two large frescoes by Simone Martini are located in the massive hall called Sala del Mappamondo. You can’t miss it. To your left as you enter the hall is the Maestà by Simone Martini. The gorgeous fresco shows the Madonna seated on a throne with the Child and surrounded by angels and saints. Note all the haloes!
Maestà by Simone Martini in the Palazzo Pubblico: Public Domai
Turn around and at the other end of the hall you’ll see the fresco of Guidoriccio da Fogliano, a general on his horse with the castles he just conquered in the distance. You’ll see reproductions of this piece in a lot of souvenir shops.
I love how Guidoriccio and his horse are wearing the same ensemble. Very stylish.
Fresco of Guidoriccio da Fogliano in the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena: Public Domain
Frescoes in the Sala dei Nove
Now walk into the Sala dei Nove—the Hall of the Nine—to see Siena’s most famous masterpiece: the fresco cycle called Allegory of Good and Bad Government by Ambrogio Lorenzetti.
You’ll get a sore neck looking up at the three wall-size frescoes, famous because they’re interesting to look at and because they depict secular subjects instead of religious ones—a rarity at the time (1340s).
I love the girls dancing in the Good Government fresco (pictured below). Take a seat and enjoy gazing up at the frescoes. Whenever I’ve been to the Sala dei Novel, I’ve been pretty much alone.
Although famous, these frescoes aren’t that famous which means you’re likely able to enjoy them crowd-free.
Allegory of Good and Bad Government by Ambrogio Lorenzetti in the Palazzo Pubblico: Public Domain
Other Suggestions for Siena
Siena is worth at least two days of your time, although people often squeeze it in as an afternoon trip from Florence. Please don’t do that!
Compared to overcrowded Florence, this wonderful small city is a medieval treat. Make room in your itinerary for a proper visit so you have ample time to get to know this delightful city. You won’t find many big-ticket sites, but that’s not the point of Siena.
Here are some options for touring Siena and other nearby locations:
And when you’re not enjoying the art, spend time wandering the back streets of Siena.
Enjoy a cappuccino in one of the cafés overlooking the Campo and buy yourself a leather purse or two. They are far more reasonably priced here than in Florence. My collection is growing!
Siena – Getting There
By Bus: The fastest public option from Florence; direct buses take 1 hr 15 min and drop you close to the center.
By Train: Scenic but slower; trains arrive at Siena’s lower station—take the local bus or escalators into town.
By Car: Easy day-trip; allow 1 hr 15 min from Florence. Park in designated lots outside the ZTL.
Art Masterpieces in San Gimignano
San Gimignano is overrun with tourists and crammed with tacky tourist shops. And yet I love it!
Every time we visit Tuscany, we stay for a few days in the vicinity of San Gimignano. We usually spend the day either touring around the countryside or staying put in our hotel to write (me) and draw (Gregg).
San Gimignano
Then, towards the end of the afternoon when the parking lots surrounding Gimignano start to empty, we venture forth.
By 4 or 5 pm, the tour busses have lumbered off, the merchants are standing outside their shops taking a much-needed break, the hot streets are shaded by the towers, and the whole town seems to exhale with relief.
Stroll virtually deserted side streets in search of art and food (in that order). For a small hill town, San Gimignano punches above its weight in excellent restaurants.
You’ll see a lot of art in San Gimignano, but don’t miss these two sites which fortunately are close to each other:
Palazzo Comunale in the Civic Museum
Located next to the Duomo, the Civic Museum also includes the Torre Grossa—the tallest of San Gimignano’s seventeen towers and the only one you can climb.
I have climbed it, and it’s worth doing, but the real draw are the frescoes in the chamber of the Podestà in the Palazzo Comunale (which also has other good art to enjoy).
View from the top of the Torre Grossa in San Gimignano
Snares of Love
The series of frescoes is called the “snares of love”, painted by Memmo di Filippucio between 1303 to 1310.
Scenes show both profane love and scenes from marriage. I love the secular nature of these frescoes, especially the one where the young married couple share a bathtub.
One of the frescoes in the Palazzo Comunale Civic Museum in San Gimignano
Frescoes in the Duomo of San Gimignano
The Duomo also contains an amazing number and variety of frescoes. Every wall on both sides of the nave is filled with frescoes, most dating from the 1300s.
The vivid colors are original; the frescoes have never required restoration.
Get the audio guide and walk slowly around the frescoes, picking out scene after scene from the Old and New Testaments. Even if you’re not into Bible stories, you can’t help but be entranced by these frescoes. I enjoy studying the clothing and the facial expressions for inspiration.
Pick up a ticket to the Museum of Sacred Art in the Duomo that includes an audio guide from this link.
Other Suggestions for San Gimignano
Climb to the top of the ruined Fortezza (fortress) at the highest point in San Gimignano to enjoy spectacular views over the countryside.
Even when the main street is heaving with sweaty tourists, the Fortezza is usually virtually empty.
San Gimignano 1300
One of my favorite museums in San Gimignano is San Gimignano 1300, located in a side street close to the Piazzale Comunale.
Here you’ll view a scale model of San Gimignano as it appeared in 1300.
You may also be able to pick up a copy ofThe Towers of Tuscany at San Gimignano 1300. I first visited the exhibit back in 2011 when I was researching my novel, and have returned many times since.
San Gimignano – Getting There
By Train: No train station in San Gimignano—use bus/car only. By Bus: From Florence, take the bus to Poggibonsi, then transfer to the local bus into San Gimignano (total 1.5 hours). By Car: About 1 hr 10 min from Florence; park in lots below the walls and walk uphill into the center.
Here is where you’ll see a stunning collection of whimsical sculptures by modern artist Niki Saint Phalle. The sculptures are based on the Tarot cards and are a must-see if you’re looking for something far off the beaten path.
And the sculptures are a nice break from the medieval and Renaissance masterpieces that make up most of the art in Tuscany.
We spent a full hour wandering around the gardens on a hot afternoon in September. Although I took tons of photographs, they don’t do the sculptures justice. You have to visit the gardens and touch the sculptures, walk inside them, and sit on them to fully appreciate them.
When you go, check the website for the current opening hours. Usually, the gardens are open daily from April 1 to October 15 from 2:30 pm to 5:30 pm. In the winter, the gardens are open only on the first Saturday of the month from 9 am to 1 pm.
Il Giardino dei Tarocchi (Tarot Garden) – Getting There
Tip: Bring cash for parking and check seasonal opening times. By Car: The easiest option. Located near Capalbio in southern Tuscany; about 1 hr 30 min from Grosseto, 2 hrs from Florence. By Train + Taxi: Train to Capalbio or Orbetello, then a 15–20 minute taxi ride to the garden.
Tuscany Art Masterpieces FAQs
Here are answers to frequently asked questions about seeing art masterpieces in Tuscany.
When is the best time to visit Tuscany for art-lovers?
The best periods are spring (April–June) and autumn (September–October) when the weather is comfortable, crowds are moderate and the golden light enhances the architecture and outdoor sculptures. Many museums are quieter in the early morning or late afternoon. Avoid major summer holiday blocks if you dislike crowds.
Do I need to book tickets in advance for major museums?
Yes. For top venues like the Uffizi in Florence and the Accademia (with David) you should absolutely book timed-entry tickets ahead to skip long lines. Pre-booking means less time waiting and more time appreciating.
How many days should I allocate if I want to focus on art in Tuscany?
If you’re primarily interested in art, plan for at least 4–5 days: 2–3 days in Florence, 1 day in Siena, 1 day in a smaller town like San Gimignano or exploring countryside art (e.g., Villa Demidoff). If you have a full week or more, you can include multiple smaller destinations.
Is it better to base myself in one city and day-trip, or move around?
It depends on your travel style. If you like unpacking once, base yourself in Florence or Siena and take day trips. But if you prefer experiencing different atmospheres (city, hilltown, countryside) moving between towns enhances discovery. In either case, staying overnight in a smaller town gives you the bonus of a quieter evening ambience.
What are some lesser-known art sites in Tuscany worth adding?
The article post mentions some: the giant Colossus statue in Villa Demidoff, the secular frescoes in the Palazzo Comunale in San Gimignano, and the modern whimsical works in Il Giardino dei Tarocchi near Grosseto. Also consider smaller museums in Lucca, Volterra, and Prato.
Are there guided tours recommended or should I go self-guided?
Both are good options. Guided tours can give you rich art-history context and often skip the line. Self-guided is great if you prefer your own pace. For major venues, book ahead for a timed entry (self-guided) or reserve a small-group guided tour (especially in Florence).
What should I wear and bring when visiting museums and churches in Tuscany?
Dress comfortably but respectfully. Many churches require covered shoulders and knees. For outdoor sculpture parks, wear good walking shoes and bring a light jacket (weather can change). Bring along a small backpack with water, sun-hat, and sunscreen.
Can I visit top art sites if I only have one day in Tuscany?
You can still see highlights, but you’ll be on a tight schedule. For example: spend the morning in Florence’s Uffizi and Accademia, have lunch, then exit for an afternoon in the Duomo or Palazzo Vecchio. But understand you’ll only scratch the surface. If possible, allocate more time to absorb the art fully.
Are there audio guides or apps I should use?
Many museums offer official audio guides included in ticket price or for a small add-on. There are also third-party apps and websites offering downloadable audio tours. If you prefer exploring at your own pace, an audio guide is highly recommended (especially for fresco cycles where context helps).
How do I avoid crowds and make the most of my visit?
Arrive right at opening time or late afternoon when fewer bus loads arrive. Stay overnight in smaller towns rather than doing everything as day-trips (and you’ll enjoy quieter streets after dinner. For major museums, book tickets with skip-the-line and consider visiting in off-peak months (e.g., early spring or autumn). Explore less famous sites mentioned in the post for more relaxed experiences.
Where to Stay in Tuscany
I don’t think I’ve ever stayed in a sub-standard place in Tuscany. You are spoiled for choice! While prices will not be low if you’re looking for comfort and convenience (my two must-haves!), you’ll be rewarded with gorgeous views, friendly proprietors and il dolce vita!
Here are four of my favorite places I’ve stayed around Tuscany:
Sant’Antonio Country Resort near Montelpulciano: Fantastic place to kick back and relax. Stay for a week! I write a whole post about my experience staying there.
Agriturismo Casanova di Pescille near San Gimignano: You’ll need a car, but this place (and a handful more in the area) is just about perfect.
Serristori Palace Residence in Florence: this spacious apartment is right on the river and about a ten minute walk into the center of Florence. Highly recommended.
I Merli di Ada in Siena: this place is delightful! It’s very centrally located with lovely hosts and a comfy and spacious room.
Summary
My list of must-see art masterpieces barely scratches the surface of all the wonderful art you can enjoy when you slow down and take time to get to know Tuscany in all its glory.
Plan to spend two weeks enjoying the many beautiful towns and villages: Montalcino, Montepulciano, Lucca, Pisa, Volterra…the list goes on. Take a walking holiday or book into an agritourism property and settle in for a week of great food and long, warm days.
The National Archaeological Museum in Athens is the largest archaeological museum in Greece and a must-see while visiting Athens.
As one of the world’s most important museums devoted to ancient Greek art, the National Archaeological Museum in Athens showcases centuries of ancient Greek history.
You’ll find artifacts from the earliest inhabitants to the Romans displayed in several large rooms. Information about each exhibit is provided in both English and Greek.
Orientation to the National Archaeological Museum in Athens
The National Archeological Museum (#1 on the map below) is about a twenty-minute walk or a short taxi ride from the center of Athens where you’ll likely be spending most of your time. Here’s a map showing the location of the museum along with other Athens landmarks.
Don’t be tempted to skip the National Archaeological Museum in favor of the more modern Acropolis Museum. Both museums offer different takes on the ancient world and both are well worth your time. If possible, schedule your visits on different days so you don’t get over-loaded!
In this post, I feature my favorite pieces from the Prehistoric Antiquities and Sculpture collections. Take your time wandering through the Archaeological Museum. It’s large, but not overwhelming. Many of the rooms are quite spacious and, at least when I was there in September, not crowded.
Prehistoric Antiquities at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens
Your first stop after entering the museum is the area featuring unique works of art from the major civilizations that flourished in Greece and the Aegean Sea area from the 7th millennium (that’sa long time ago) to around 1050 BC.
Discover works from the Neolithic period and the Bronze Age. Some of the most significant artifacts come from the royal tombs of Mycenae. You’ll also view evocative Cycladic marble figurines and the astonishingly well-preserved wall paintings from Thera (aka Santorini).
Mycenean Collection
Two of the many show-stoppers in the Mycenean collection are gold masks dating from the 16th century BC. The mask on the left is known as the mask of Agamemnon.
Having already visited Mycenae (see my post on the two days I spent in Nafplio during which I took a semi-private tour to Mycenae), I enjoyed seeing even more of the artifacts from that period. The Mycenaean civilization flourished between 1600 and 1100 BC, and was a wealthy and very influential culture. The beauty and intricacy of the objects, many rendered in gold, is astonishing.
Cycladic Antiquities
I’m glad I chose to visit the Archaeological Museum of Athens at the end of my trip around Greece. I had more context for understanding what I was looking at. During my visit to the Cyclades (Santorini and Naxos), I visited several small museums featuring Cycladic art and already knew a little bit about it.
I especially loved the almost alien-looking marble sculptures with their smooth surfaces and blank eyes. This little guy is playing a double flute and dates from 2800 to 2300 BC.
Antiquities of Thera
Thera is the proper name for Santorini, which was the first stop on my trip to Greece. While there, I visited the archaeological site at Akrotiri (check out my post on Santorini) where many of the artifacts in the National Archeological Museum come from.
Before it was destroyed in a volcanic eruption, Akrotiri included public spaces and three-story houses decorated with wall paintings, many of which have survived in remarkably good condition. Here are two of them. The stylization, color combinations, and sheer delicate beauty of the paintings took my breath away.
Also featured in the collection at the National Archaeological Museum are some amazing pots, my favorites being these two. It’s hard to believe that these were painted in the 16th century BC. They look so modern!
Sculpture Collection at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens
The sculpture collection occupies several rooms at the museum and presents the evolution of ancient Greek sculpture from 700 BC to the 5th century AD. The collection includes over 16,000 sculptures from archaeological sites all over Greece, not all of which are on display. Four periods are represented: Archaic, Classical, Hellenistic, and Roman.
Archaic Sculptures
My faves are the sculptures from the Archaic Period. While I appreciate the much more realistic sculptures from later periods, there’s something about the stiff, upright, far-seeing Kouros statues that just gets to me. They are over life-size and not realistic, but then they don’t pretend to be. This one is made of Naxian marble and was a votive offering to Poseidon.
Classical Sculptures
The sculptures from the classical period date from the 5th century BC. Democracy had been established in Athens and various military victories at the battles of Marathon and Plataea had resulted in an era of intellectual creativity, material prosperity, and democratic consolidation. Artists flocked to the city, and by the peak of the century, sculptors were drawing their inspiration from the idealized human body.
You’ll find a great many wonderful sculptures from the classical period to check out. One of the most famous is the statue of Poseidon. He dominates one of the rooms with his great set of abs and one arm poised to throw his trident into the waves. This imposing statue was found at the bottom of the sea in 460 BC.
Hellenistic Sculptures
The Hellenistic period runs from the late 4th to the early 1st century BC. Figures were rendered realistically, rather than in the idealized way they tended to be in the Classical period.
I was drawn to the theater masks made from marble. This one dates from the 2nd century BC and is modeled after masks used in comedy.
This grouping from 340 BC is pretty amazing, and one of several similar sculptures that were created as grave reliefs. Look at the details in the hair and beard, and the expressions on the faces!
Roman Sculptures
I got the impression while traveling around Greece that the Greeks are still none too happy that the Romans invaded their country back in the day. Occasionally, a guide would disparagingly note that a particular ruin was Roman, and they didn’t mean it as a compliment. From the 2nd century BC onwards, Greece was gradually conquered by the Romans until their eventual dominance in 31 BC.
Many of the artistic treasures of Greece were taken to Rome, which probably didn’t go over too well with the locals. Eventually, new local workshops were established to satisfy the demand for copies of Classical and Hellenistic works and by the 2nd century AD, Athens was again an artistic center.
Here are two of the many Roman sculptures in the museum. On the left is an intriguing bronze portrait statue of the empress Julia Aquilia Severa (AD 220). She doesn’t look particularly happy. On the right is a rather fine statue of the goddess Hygieia dating from AD 200 that was found at the sanctuary of Asklepios at Epidauros which we visited while staying in Nafplion.
The Jockey
One of the most famous pieces in the National Archaeological Museum in Athens is known as The Artemision Jockey. This bronze statue of a horse and jockey dates from around 140 BC, and was retrieved in pieces between 1928 and 1937 from the sea floor off Cape Artemision. Check out the boy’s expression. He’s so focused on handling his massive steed. This huge piece takes pride of place in the museum and no wonder. It’s truly remarkable.
Other Collections at the Archaeological Museum in Athens
The museum also includes a wonderful collection of metalwork, with its Bronze collection reputed to be one of the finest in the world. In addition, you’ll find an extensive collection of vases, many with the distinctive black and gold coloring.
I never get tired of studying these ancient vases with their intricately drawn scenes. If I ever decide to write a novel set in ancient Greece, I can see myself spending a lot of time studying the imagery on the vases to learn what people wore and how they lived.
Check out this vase depicting a man placing a child on a swing. Sweet or what?
And just in case you haven’t yet slaked your appetite for looking at antiquities, check out the Egyptian and Cypriot collections, both world renowned.
Practical Information
From November 1 to March 31, the National Archaeological Museum in Athens is open from Wednesday to Monday from 8:30 am to 3:30 pm and on Tuesdays from 1:00 pm to 8:00 pm. From April 1 to October 31, the museum is open from Wednesday to Monday from 8:30 am to 8:00 pm and on Tuesdays from 1:00 pm to 8:00 pm. The museum is closed on December 25 – 26, January 1, March 25, May 1 and Orthodox Easter Sunday. Admission costs 12€ from April 1 to October 31 and 6€ from November 1 to March 31.
Where to Stay in Athens
On our recent trip to Athens, we stayed in two places: a holiday apartment for two nights and a hotel for one night. I highly recommend both, which are in neighborhoods convenient for sightseeing in Athens.
Karma Apartments
Steps from the lively Plaka district on a quiet side street, Karma Apartments is a real find in Athens. The one-bedroom apartment on the top floor of a building containing other holiday lets includes a large terrace with a peekaboo view of the Acropolis.
Hotel Lozenge
On our last night in Greece, we stayed at the Hotel Lozenge in the upscale Kolonaki neighbourhood. This is a great choice for a business-style hotel with comfortable rooms, an attached restaurant, and very helpful staff.
Athens is more than its antiquities, but wow, they sure do have incredible antiquities! Take the time to wander through the rooms at the National Archaeological Museum to marvel at the some of the most beautiful sculptures and other objects ever made by human hands. And then when you’re done, go enjoy a tasty Greek meal (every meal I had was tasty!) and relax.
You’re in Athens and life is good. Here are more posts about travels in Greece:
The Victoria and Albert Museum is one of the world’s most amazing repositories of, well, beautiful stuff.
It’s a collector’s dream come true with astonishing examples of the decorative arts and the applied arts. You’ll find everything from costumes to metal gates to furniture to bracelets and everything in between.
There is so much to see at London’s Victoria and Albert museum that you need to pace yourself and have a plan.
You can’t really define the V&A because it’s just so eclectic.
Think of an object and the V&A probably has an example of a version made with exquisite skill by someone somewhere in the world.
It’s a sensual feast for the eyes and a testament to the ingenuity of human beings and their commitment to fashioning objects that are not only functional but gorgeous.
There are so many things to see that you could spend days exploring—it’s HUGE! In this post, I share my recommendations for seeing the best of the V&A.
V&A at a Glance
Favorite Gallery: It’s a tie between Fashion and Glass
The V&A museum is high on my list of favorite museums. Almost every time I go to London, I pop into the V&A. No matter how often I visit, I still discover new things to look at.
The only problem with this incredible museum is that it’s impossible to see and appreciate all of it in one visit, or two, or ten. I’ve visited at least five times over the years, and I feel like I haven’t even scratched the surface.
The museum lives up to its reputation as the world’s largest museum of art and design.
The V&A was established in 1852 with collections from the Great Exhibition of 1851, and was originally called the Museum of Manufactures and then the South Kensington Museum.
Queen Victoria laid the foundation stone of the current location in 1899 and changed the name to the Victoria and Albert Museum to include her late husband Prince Albert.
Location of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London
The V&A is located near the South Kensington underground station and alongside several of London’s largest South Kensington museums.
If you love museums, make a day of it. Visit the V&A (1), and then hop on over to the Natural History Museum and the Science Museum (2 & 3 on the map). Both are excellent places to visit with children.
Better still, spread the visits over two days. Museum-hopping can be exhausting. Go at your own pace and take time to explore nearby Hyde Park (4) and Kensington Gardens (5) for a nature break.
Yes, the V&A is huge and yes, there’s a ton to see, but you have to start somewhere. Your best bet when first visiting is to select five or six galleries to explore, occasionally veering into exhibition rooms en route when something catches your eye.
List of Galleries
Architecture
Britain (1500 – 1760)
Britain (1760 – 1900)
Buddhism
Cast Courts
Ceramics
China
Contemporary Glass
Design (1900 – Now)
Europe (1600 – 1815)
Fashion
Furniture
Glass
Gold, Silver & Mosaics
Himalayas & Southeast Asia
Ironwork
Islamic Middle East
Japan
Jewelry
Korea
Leighton
Medieval & Renaissance (300 – 1600)
Metalware
Paintings
Photography Centre
Portrait Miniatures
Prints & Drawings
The Raphael Cartoons
Sacred Silver & Stained Glass
Sculpture
Sculpture (1300 – 1600)
Silver
South Asia
South Asian Sculpture
Tapestries
Theatre & Performance
Daunting? You betcha! Note that some galleries may be closed. Start your visit by checking at the information desk to find out what’s open. For example, the Theatre & Performance gallery was not open when I visited in September, 2024.
So where to start?
Exterior of the Victoria and Albert Museum on Cromwell Road in Kensington
Arriving at the Victoria and Albert Museum
First, walk up the steps and enter the museum’s massive atrium. Straight ahead is a large information area—your first stop.
Put your wallet away (unless you’re planning to see the special exhibition) because admission to the permanent collection is FREE. I know. Amazing!
You can make a donation (I always do), but you don’t have to. The attendants at the information booth will give you a map and may also suggest you purchase the guidebook.
For £5, it’s a bargain because it gives you an overview of the highlights of each gallery.
Special Exhibitions
You can choose to buy a ticket to the special exhibition. A few weeks before you visit the V&A, check what’s on and make reservations. Popular exhibitions often sell out quickly.
Getting Started
Once you’ve purchased your guidebook, or even just armed with the free map, walk straight through the gift shop (you can come back later!) and out into the courtyard.
Buy something to drink from the kiosk and settle down at one of the tables (weather permitting) to check the map and/or guidebook.
Courtyard at the V&A
While sipping your beverage of choice, figure out which areas you want to focus on and where they are in the museum. You want to avoid backtracking.
The beauty of the V&A is that even if you’ve decided to tour only six galleries, you’ll see plenty more as you walk through the museum from chosen gallery to chosen gallery. Don’t be surprised if you’re tempted to veer off to check out a gallery you hadn’t intended to visit.
Give in to these impulses. The V&A truly is a treasure trove!
Now you’re ready to start your tour. Go slowly and pace yourself. Beauty overload is a thing!
Here are just some of the hundreds (thousands?) of things to see at the V&A.
Things to See at the Victoria and Albert Museum
I’m focusing here on six galleries: Fashion, Asian (which includes several areas), Furniture, Cast Court, Glass, and Jewelry.
Fashion Gallery
I always drop into the fashion collection, located in the central area of the main floor. Here, you’ll find a unique collection of European clothing and textiles spanning from 1750 to the present.
I particularly enjoy the 18th- and 19th-century dresses. Can you imagine wearing so many hoops and corsets? Here’s an elaborate dress from the 1760s.
Asian Art and Objects at the Victoria and Albert Museum
This is a broad category that includes art and objects from several regions: Japan, Korea, China, South Asia and Himalayas, and Southeast Asia. Take a stroll through the galleries to enjoy an amazing collection of articles.
Highlights for me are the Samurai armor collection in the Japan section, a golden Buddha, jade objects from China, delicate porcelain, and so many more treasures.
An interesting—if rather gruesome—piece is Tipu’s Tiger in the South Asia and Himalayas section. This wooden sculpture was made for Tipu Sultan, ruler of Mysore in South India.
When the handle on the side of the tiger is turned, the ghastly noises produced imitate the wails of agony of the British soldier lying underneath the tiger. Apparently, this exhibit was one of the most popular in the East India Company’s museum.
And although not part of the Asian galleries, take a quick detour to check out the Ardabil carpet, which is the world’s oldest dated carpet. Although its exact origins are unknown, the carpet was made sometime during the 16th century.
It’s a stunner.
Furniture Gallery
Examples of furniture are scattered throughout many of the galleries in the V&A. In addition, the Dr. Susan Weber Gallery of Furniture showcases how furniture was been made and decorated for over 600 years. Included are items from the Renaissance to the present.
Bed of Ware
One of the most interesting pieces of furniture is in the Britain 1500 – 1760 gallery. Definitely make a detour to check out the Great Bed of Ware, so famous in its day that it was mentioned by Shakespeare.
The famous bed is three meters wide and apparently able to comfortably accommodate four couples (at least!). It was constructed around 1590 as a tourist attraction for an inn in Ware, Hertfordshire, which was a day’s journey from London and a convenient overnight stop for travelers bound for Cambridge and points north.
The initials that visitors carved into the bed posts and the headboard are still visible today.
Cast Courts
The massive sculptures in the Cast Courts are the showstopping, must-see areas of the V&A. You’ll be able to view the two huge, connected courts from many angles as you make your way up through the four levels of the museum.
Look down from one of the walkways on the third or fourth level and find yourself faced with a bewildering hodge podge of iconic statues, altarpieces, and even columns.
Why go to Florence when you can visit the cast courts at the V&A instead? It’s like a souvenir store for giants.
These plaster casts of great art and architecture from around the world were collected and displayed for visitors to study.
One of the many highlights is Michelangelo’s David. Apparently, Queen Victoria was shocked by the anatomical correctness of the David cast and requested that a suitably proportioned fig leaf be made and hung on the statue when dignitaries visited.
My source didn’t specify if regular visitors were allowed to view the full Monty, so to speak.
Another highlight is the reproduction of Trajan’s column. The original is too tall to include in the building and so the reproduction is divided into two massive columns.
I’ve seen the original in Rome, and because of the column’s height, it’s difficult to see the detail. At the V&A, you can get pretty close to the columns to view the intricate carvings.
Glass Gallery
Up on Level 3 in a corner of the museum that was virtually empty when I last visited is the astounding Glass Gallery. Here, you’ll trace the development of design and technology in glassmaking over 3,500 years.
The museum’s glass collection is reputed to be one of the world’s most comprehensive.
I’m always intrigued by glass. How did people figure out that sand heated up could turn transparent? The variety and beauty of the hundreds and hundreds of objects on display is truly remarkable. I could have stayed there for hours.
Jewelry Gallery
I’m feeling overwhelmed after looking at some many amazing objects, but I can’t resist a walk through the narrow, dimly lit and quite crowded collection reputed to be among the finest in the world.
More than 3,000 pieces tell the story of western jewelry from ancient times to the present day.
Case after case contain pieces ranging from tiaras, brooches, and earrings to stunning necklaces, bracelets, and rings.
All around you, people can be heard oohing and aahing, and no wonder! The ingenuity and skill that was required to make such superb objects is unfathomable.
Completing Your Visit
Your visit will probably take you three to four hours. But don’t spend all that time touring the exhibits! Here are some ideas for pacing yourself.
Taking a Break at the Café
A good strategy is to take a break to enjoy something to eat at the V&A café. Not only is the food tasty, but you’ll also benefit from getting off your feet to further study the guidebook and map.
The café can get crowded, so time your visit either before or after the lunch rush.
One good strategy to avoid crowds is to arrive at the museum when it opens at 10 am, tour a few galleries, and then enjoy an early lunch in the café before tackling some more.
Checking Out the Gift Shop
I do love a good gift shop, and the one at the V&A is first-rate. You’ll find relatively affordable textiles, jewelry, books, fashion items, gift items, cool stuff for kids, and much more.
I bought some lovely tea towels that will be for display only in my kitchen. They are far too nice to use!
Studying at the Victoria and Albert Museum
The V&A is a world-class research center. In addition to displaying over 60,000 objects in the Museum, the museum also maintains a number of study rooms, both on and off-site. Here, you can view over two million objects from the Reference Collections and conduct private research.
When I was researching my novel The Muse of Fire, set in early 19th century London, I booked time at one of the study centers to view original prints of cartoons popular at the time.
In the hushed atmosphere of the offsite study room, I received the box of prints from an attendant who looked straight out of a Dickens novel, and spent several happy hours making notes and taking pictures.
If you have a research project in mind, you may well find useful resources at the V&A. Check the website for more information. Note that you must book well in advance of your visit.
Practical Information
The Victoria and Albert Museum is open seven days a week from 10:00 am to 17:45, except for Fridays when it is open until 22:00. Admission is free. Check the website for more information.
Taking a Tour
On one visit to the V&A, I opted to take a guided tour. Good call! The two-hour tour showed me all sorts of amazing objects I may have missed if touring on my own. You can take a free tour provided by the museum staff or an outside tour.
Of course, top of the list is the British Museum, in which you’ll experience objects from cultures all across the globe over two million years. Entry is free, but book your entry ticket in advance. The closest tube stations are Tottenham Court Road, Holborn, and Russell Square.
The Wallace Collection is small but eclectic and worth a visit. And while you’re in South Kensington, check out the Design Museum, which has become one of my new favorite places in London.
Staying in London
London is not an inexpensive city, but over the years, I’ve discovered some excellent places to stay that, while not bargain basement, are good value and very centrally located.
On my latest trip to London, I stayed at the Park Plaza Victoria London Hotel. Located right across the street from Victoria Station, the Park Plaza Victoria (6 on the map at the beginning of this post) is a remarkably good deal for a modern, four-star hotel in the heart of London.
My room for two was spacious and even had a view over London.
View from my room at the Park Plaza Victoria Hotel in London
The Wilde ApartHotel (7) just off the Strand is also a wonderful choice. I loved its very central location within walking distance of Trafalgar Square and most of the West End theaters.
Conclusion
Have you visited the Victoria and Albert Museum in London? What were your favorite exhibits? Share your experiences and recommendations in the Comments below.
Here are links to posts about three of my favorite London galleries:
Ah, the Acropolis of Athens! It is the pinnacle of Greek culture and a mecca for cultural travel. It’s both a graceful monument to the old gods and a tourist attraction famed for the number of visitors willing to risk heatstroke to see it in all its rubble-strewn glory.
Of all the many archaeological site scattered across Greece, the most famous by far are the imposing collection of temples perched atop the hill in the middle of the busy city of Athens.
The hill is called the Acropolis and the big temple in the middle is called the Parthenon, but people often use the two terms interchangeably.
A UNESCO World Heritage site, the Acropolis inspires millions of visitors every year to make the long trek from the ticket office to the temples, puffing up stone steps that go on forever (or at least feel like they do). There is no shade; for several months of the year, the sun can be life threatening; and you make the trek with thousands of fellow visitors.
Unless you’re visiting in the depths of winter, forget romantic thoughts of strolling up the steps in solitary communion with the ancient Greeks.
I’m actually surprised so many people visit the Acropolis. And yet they do. Thousands upon thousands of them visit every day—young and not so young, fit and definitely not fit, and from all over the world. The Acropolis is the must-see hit of Athens.
You can’t go to Athens and not climb to the Acropolis. Not to do so is probably illegal.
Read on for more about my experience and my recommendations for comfortably visiting the Acropolis and the must-see Acropolis Museum.
When It’s Too Hot to Visit the Acropolis
Officials sometimes close the Acropolis on summer afternoons when temperatures soar to the high forties Celsius. I can’t even imagine how hot that must feel. With no shade on the way up, such high temperatures plus bare rocks equal a searing experience.
If you’re visiting on a particularly hot and crowded day in the summer, I recommend just admiring the Acropolis from afar. Why risk heat stroke?
Instead, visit the wonderful (and air conditioned) Acropolis Museum and/or the National Archaeological Museum (check out my suggestions for touring!), enjoy a leisurely lunch, do some shopping, do some people-watching of the modern Athenians, and maybe take a peek at some of the lesser-known and much less crowded archaeological sites. You’ll still see the Acropolis from just about anywhere you walk in central Athens. Let that be enough.
Here are some tours from Tiqets.com that don’t include the Acropolis!
Visiting the Acropolis of Athens in the Late Afternoon
When the heat is manageable, consider visiting the Acropolis in the late afternoon. The crowds start to thin out, the temperature starts to cool, and sunset is imminent.
Here’s what I did during a visit with my daughter in mid-September.
My Visit to the Acropolis in September
We arrive at the ticket area near the main entrance to the Acropolis site at 4:30 pm to find that tickets for the 4:45 time slot are sold out, with the next available time slot being 5:45 pm.
If you go in the late afternoon, you may be lucky, like we are, and only wait an hour to get in. If, however, you are visiting at other times of the day or during the summer, buy your tickets online several days before your visit.
To Combo or Not to Combo?
Your big decision when buying your ticket to the Acropolis is whether you should buy a single or a combo ticket. The single ticket costs €20 and the combo ticket costs €30.
The single ticket only gets you into the Acropolis & Slopes within a 30-minute time frame from 15 minutes before to 15 minutes after your selected time slot.
The combo ticket gets you into the Acropolis & Slopes at your appointed time and into the Ancient Agora, Hadrian’s Library, Kerameikos, Aristotle’s School [Lyceum], Olympieion, and the Roman Agora anytime within five days of the ticket date. That’s a lotta ruins!
With only a day and a half in Athens, we decide to throw caution to the wind and buy the combo tickets. I figure that for the extra €10, we’re bound to visit at least one of the other sites. Most of them cost around €10, so we only have to visit one additional site to get our money’s worth.
We visit the Ancient Agora the day after our visit to the Acropolis, so for us, the combo ticket paid for itself, just. Here’s some advice on How to Spend a Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Athens that includes a visit to the Ancient Agora.
Here’s the fabulous Temple of Hephaestus in the Agora.
I recommend you buy the combo ticket if you think you’ll have time to explore other sites. The Ancient Agora is definitely worth a visit.
After buying combo tickets, we go in search of a café to have a drink while we wait. My daughter, Julia, chooses a donut that looks like it will be a tasty, if indulgent, treat.
Unfortunately, it’s drier than a vat of pixie dust. We should complain and get our €3.50 back. But I don’t have the heart since the server was so cheery when she seated us. We leave the donut virtually untouched and return to the ticket office.
NOTE: Avoid the string of cafés a few steps from the entrance to the Acropolis. There are many better places to eat in the nearby Plaka district.
Joining the Line to the Acropolis of Athens
We arrive back at the line at 5:30 and join the queue. There are quite a few people, but not so many that we feel overwhelmed. Precisely at 5:45, the turnstiles open and the line moves with surprising briskness.
Soon we’re through and ready to begin the long climb up to one of the world’s most iconic sites.
OMG! I’m at the Acropolis! Socrates walked here. Plato pontificated here. Thousands of believers made their way across these very slick stones to climb to the temples and worship the gods.
It’s one of those “pinch me” moments that make travel worthwhile.
Have you been to the Acropolis in Athens?
Oh yes. It was marvelous.
Fortunately, most people move quite slowly, what with stopping every two meters to snap pictures, so the climb feels less strenuous than it would be if the place were empty. Every few steps, we get to pause, admire the view, and catch our breath.
I listen to a Rick Steves audio commentary as I climb and learn all sorts of interesting things about what I’m seeing. I recommend Rick’s commentaries—they’re fun, informative, and not boring.
The Odeon of Herodes Atticus
On the way up to the Acropolis, we pass the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. It’s a superb open-air theater with seating for 5,000 spectators that is still used for performances. Built in 161 AD, the Odeon of Herodes Atticus has hosted stars such as Elton John, Pavarotti, Frank Sinatra, and Sting.
Caption: Odeon of Herodes Atticus on the Acropolis Slopes
Slowly, slowly we climb up and up Acropolis hill until we face the monumental entrance to the Acropolis—enormous pillars soaring into the cloud-studded Athenian sky. I am suitably awed and snap away happily along with a few hundred of my fellow climbers.
Approaching the entrance to the Acropolis in Athens
What’s Up Top at the Acropolis of Athens?
When, finally, we make it to the top, all of Athens is laid at our feet which is pretty danged spectacular. We’re also standing in the shadow of the mighty Parthenon which, despite the scaffolding and the missing columns, is magnificent.
It’s the very definition of iconic.
People are everywhere, but it’s not difficult to crop them out of pictures, and everyone is in good spirits. After all, they’re in the midst of crossing a major experience off their bucket lists. Also, the temperature at around 28 C degrees with a nice breeze and the sun fast setting is just about perfect.
The front façade of the Acropolis
Warning: No Disrespecting Allowed
Resist the temptation to engage in any shenanigans while snapping pictures of the monuments of the Acropolis. Guards patrol the perimeter on the lookout for anyone daring to make light of Greece’s national treasures. They frown on people mugging for the camera with excessively silly poses or acting in any way disrespectfully.
Temple ofErechtheion at the Acropolis of Athens
The beautiful temple of Erechtheion with its columns made from the figures of women is a highlight of the Acropolis. The original statues are in the Acropolis Museum, which I talk about later in this post. The statues you’ve climbed up to see are reproductions.
But the temple is still wonderful! Who cares that most of it was rebuilt in modern times?
The Temple of Erechtheion on the Acropolis
The Parthenon
The main activity at the top of the Acropolis is walking around the Parthenon and snapping pictures of the Parthenon along with the other temples and the view of Athens from every angle.
You can eavesdrop on tour groups or listen to an audio guide to learn more about the site, or you can just look and enjoy.
The attraction of the place is its hold over our collective imaginations. The Acropolis of Athens symbolizes much of what is good in western culture as defined by the ancient Greeks. Their contributions to medicine, theater, literature, language, architecture, sculpture, and a whole lot of other useful pursuits have lasted millennia.
The world owes a lot to the Greeks, and the Acropolis of Athens stands proud witness to that debt.
We circle the Parthenon, admiring its perfect dimensions and lamenting its sorry state of disrepair. Over the millennia, it was bombed by the Venetians, had a mosque built inside of it by the Ottomans, and had bits of it removed by a certain British lord whose name begins with E.
Many Greeks are not happy that their “Elgin” marbles were removed from the Acropolis back in the day and are still in the British Museum. I hope they get them back so they can be installed in the gorgeous new Acropolis Museum that we visit next.
Temple of Athena Nike
Athena, goddess of wisdom, crafting, and victory, is one of my favorite goddesses. Perched at the edge of a cliff, the temple dedicated to the goddess Athena is the smallest temple at the Acropolis. It was built in the Iconic order (my favorite of the three orders) in 420 BC.
Sunset Over Athens
The sun is starting to sink over Athens and the guards start ushering people towards the exit. Although the Acropolis is supposed to stay open until 8 PM, that’s not exactly the case. I suppose they want everyone off before darkness falls which, considering the roughness of some of the steps, is a good idea.
The journey back down the slopes of the Acropolis is much easier than the journey up. Before long, we’re back in front of the Acropolis Museum.
Because it’s a Friday, the museum is open until 10 PM. Visiting it after an early evening climb to the Acropolis makes a perfect ending to an Acropolis outing.
Accessing the Acropolis via Elevator
If you are not able to climb the many, many steps to the Acropolis, you may be able to use the elevator. Thank you to a commenter on this post for reminding me that an elevator is available.
Note that access is strictly controlled. You need to prove you are disabled, and should call ahead to check availability. The number is +30 210 3214172 or +30 210 9238470
The ride up takes just 32 seconds!
Visiting the Acropolis Museum
This museum is an Athens must-see. It’s brand new and gorgeous and is equally awesome whether visited before or after climbing to the Acropolis. And if the weather and crowds prevent you from making the climb, the Acropolis Museum is a fine consolation prize.
Entrance to the Acropolis Museum in Athens
The three floors of the museum are large and airy with beautifully curated displays of artifacts from the Acropolis of Athens. In addition, informative videos, and lots of information in English, bring Greek history to life.
Allow at least two hours to tour the museum.
A highlight for me are the original statues from the Temple of Erechtheion. The details in the robes and hair of the women are astonishing.
On the top floor, you can see great views of the Acropolis. Since we are visiting in the evening, the floodlit ruins appear to float in the night sky.
Also on the top floor is the glass-encased “Parthenon Gallery” on which the relief sculptures of the Parthenon frieze are exhibited in continuous sequence around all four sides, mimicking the real Parthenon.
While most of the sculptures were long ago plundered by Lord Elgin, enough remain to give an idea of the splendor of the original building.
Plenty of information is provided to help visitors visualize the original friezes as well as understand the significance of the sculpted figures. It’s a pretty cool experience to walk around the four sides of the massive structure on the top floor, occasionally glancing out the window to see the real Parthenon rising into an indigo sky from the moonlit Acropolis.
On the ground floor, wide expanses of glass that you can walk over allow you to view the active archaeological dig below ground.
When to Visit the Acropolis Museum in Athens
I highly recommend visiting the Acropolis Museum in the evening, if possible. We pretty much had the place to ourselves for the entire visit. Earlier in the day, the museum can get very crowded because people often go to the Acropolis first and then visit the museum.
Here are some options for purchasing tickets to the Acropolis and the Acropolis Museum.
Where to Stay in Athens
On my recent trip to Athens, I stayed in two places–a holiday apartment for two nights and a hotel for one night. I can highly recommend both places.
Karma Athens: Located on a quiet street just around the corner from the lively Plaka district, Karma Apartments was the perfect place to stay in Athens. Our one-bedroom apartment included a private terrace that featured a peek-a-boo view of the Acropolis.
The building contains only holiday lets so it’s more like a hotel, but without a reception. However, there was an attendant there when we arrived early who kindly stored our luggage until the apartment was ready and then carried it up to our apartment on the top floor. The stairs were steep but the climb was worth it.
Hotel Lozenge: This business hotel located in the high-end Kolonaki area of Athens, and within easy walking distance of most of what you’d want to see in Athens, is clean and modern with a friendly staff and an attached bar-restaurant.
We stayed one night before flying home the next morning, and it was an excellent end-of-trip choice.
Conclusion
The Acropolis of Athens is a definite must-see if you can avoid risking heatstroke or standing in long lines for hours on end. Go late in the afternoon, if possible, scheduling your visit to the Acropolis Museum for when the museum is open late, and take your time.
It’s likely you’ll only make the climb up to the Acropolis once or twice in your life. Make sure the experience is one you look back on with fondness, remembering the thrill of treading in the footsteps of the ancients rather than the tedium of inching painfully across sun-baked stones.
Have you visited the Acropolis in Athens? Share your experience and recommendations in the Comments below.
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