Artsy Traveler

What to See and Do on Kauai

Last updated on August 17th, 2023 at 04:53 pm

I felt like I was traveling through a work of art—one that has taken about five million years to create.

What’s In This Post

In this post, I provide suggestions for areas to explore on Kauai and then share my recommendations about how long to stay and where.

For more on traveling on Kauai, check out Ten Tips for Traveling Solo on Kauai, and Six Highlights of a Kauai Vacation.

Exploring the East Shore

The East Shore is where most residents live and is quite busy and often traffic-clogged. However, its proximity to the airport, shopping, and some good beaches makes it a smart stop for a few days, particularly when you first arrive.

Stocking Up at Big Box Stores

On my first full day on Kauai’s East Shore, I drove to Costco and Walmart in the town of Lihue to buy vacation essentials at reasonable prices. At Costco, I picked up a case of water, a large bag of macadamia nuts that lasted me the entire trip, a few bags of snacks, a hunk of cheese, and a box of salad.

At Walmart, I bought a mask and snorkel, a pair of water shoes, and a nice big beach bag. You can rent snorkel equipment at various places on Kauai, but it’s cheaper (and more hygienic) to pick up the gear at a store like Walmart.

Town of Kapa‘a

The town of Kapa‘a is over 125 years old and was once the hub of a sugar-growing and then pineapple-growing area. The old canneries are closed now, and tourism is the main industry. Restaurants and gift shops line about two blocks on either side of the highway with some of the structures retaining the architecture of a frontier town.

I stopped a few times in Kapa‘a to buy lunch at the various food trucks parked in lots convenient to the road and once to treat myself to a cup of lychee and pineapple ice cream (creamy and very yummy!).

One evening, I ventured a block from where I had parked in the main part of town to the bike and walking path that hugs the coast for about 4.5 miles north from Kapa‘a. Another 2.5-mile section of the path leads from Lydgate Park to Wailua Beach Park south of Kapa‘a. The path is mostly flat and traverses an appealing coastal landscape.

Lydgate Beach Park

One of the safest beaches on the East Shore for swimming and snorkeling, particularly with children, is Lydgate Beach Park, a few miles south of Kapa‘a and close to Wailua right off the main road.

A reef protects two pools from the ocean waves. When I was there, the high winds made even the relatively calm pools too choppy for comfort. But the park would be a must-go-to on a less blustery day. Here’s a video in which you can clearly hear the wind!

Anahola Beach

This gorgeous beach north of Ka’apa is a great place to hang out while enjoying a breakfast acai (ah-sigh-EE) bowl, which is what I did on my second morning on Kauai. I suggest driving first to Kalalea Juice Hale on the road going north toward Anahola, getting your acai bowl, and then eating it on the beach.

What is an acai bowl? Cool, smooth, and very purple mashed acai berries are topped with granola, hemp seeds, chia seeds, banana, and then drizzled with peanut butter. It’s a filling breakfast, but definitely worth trying a few times during a Kauai vacation.

What Else to See on the East Shore

There are many beautiful places to visit on the East Shore. Here’s a sampling:

• Opaeka’a Falls
• Wailua Falls
• Nounou East Trail – ‘Sleeping Giant’
• Fern Grotto
• Kauai Museum

For details, check out The Ultimate Kauai Guidebook by Andrew Doughty. This definitive guide to Kauai is a must-buy, along with Doughty’s very informative and amusing driving app. Check my post on traveling solo in Kauai for details.

Exploring the North Shore

The North Shore is wetter than other regions of Kauai, but has wonderful beaches, a more old-world, laid-back atmosphere and incredibly breathtaking scenery. Seriously, there are not enough superlatives in the thesaurus to describe the area’s sparkling beaches, lush greenery, and breathtaking mountains.

Here are a few recommended activities and sites on the North Shore of Kauai.

The Drive to Haena State Park

You require a permit to enter the park, so if you didn’t get one several weeks in advance of your trip, you’re out of luck. Check the Haena State Park website for details.

Even if you can’t enter the park, the drive to the park, which is as far as you can drive on the North Shore before running into the impassable cliffs of Nāpali, is absolutely lovely and very relaxing because it’s impossible to drive too fast.

Every few minutes, you must navigate a one-lane bridge. After crossing the first few bridges, you quickly become an old hand, stopping at the start of the bridge, checking ahead to see if any cars are already waiting on the other side to cross, waiting for them to cross, and then when the coast is clear, crossing yourself.

It is a bit like a dance. The etiquette is to allow about five to seven cars across at a time. Not everyone knows that so sometimes the wait to cross can take longer than it should, but who cares? You’re in paradise!

Hanalei and Hanalei Bay

A highlight on the North Shore is the charming little town of Hanalei on the world-famous Hanalei Bay. This broad, curving scimitar of sand lapped by turquoise waves and bulwarked by the first set of dramatic cliffs marching along the Nāpali Coast is an absolute must-see.

The town of Hanalei meanders along the road with touristy shops on each side. I poked around a bit and enjoyed a Hawaiian grilled cheese sandwich at Pink’s Creamery, but I can’t say there was much to see. More interesting was driving a block or two to Hanalei Bay itself, where I parked and spent a few afternoons on the beach. I did some swimming, but the waves were fairly rough.

One memorable evening, I drove to Hanalei pier to watch the sunset.

Kīlauea Lighthouse and Wildlife Refuge

At the town of Kīlauea on the North Shore, follow signs to the Kīlauea Lighthouse and Wildlife Refuge. Pay the $10 entrance fee and take a breezy stroll along the clifftops to the lighthouse. You’ll revel in dazzling views of the ocean waves crashing into the cliffs below and feel glad to be alive in the wonderfully fresh air.

Kilauea Town

On the way to Kilauea Lighthouse, you’ll pass a few small shopping areas in the charming town of Kilauea. I liked this area much better for shopping than the busier and more touristy Princeville area. There are some good take-out places (I enjoyed the offerings at Kilauea Fish Market and Sushi Girl Kauai) and the vibe is a lot more laid-back.

On the way back to the main highway, stop at the Healthy Hut Market & Cafe. A favorite of locals, this wonderful old health food store is chock full of health foods and organic produce and includes an excellent juice bar. I recommend the Kaupea Sundown organic fresh juice–carrots, fresh-squeezed (and local) orange juice, turmeric, and aloe. Wow!

Hanalei Valley Lookout

Just after passing the mall at Princeville, you’ll see a pullout for the Hanalei Valley Lookout. I stopped at it every time I passed because the magnificent view over the Hanalei Valley never got old. It’s, like, so gorgeous!

One time, I was lucky enough to stop when a rainbow was arcing across the valley. From the viewpoint (one of the most photographed lookouts in all Hawaii) you see taro fields, soaring mountains, and waterfalls. It is a truly magical site.

Limahuli Botanical Gardens

A stop here for either a self-guided or guided tour is a highlight of your North Shore exploration. Located just before the road along the North Shore ends at Haena State Park, the marvelous Limahuli Gardens is a lovely, cool respite from crowded beaches and busy towns.

Its setting at the base of the “Bali Hai” mountain (yes, it’s the same mountain that stood in for Bali Hai in the movie South Pacific) makes it feel very remote and Hawaiian.

I opted for the self-guided tour which I’d booked in advance. For more about Limahuli Gardens see the post Six Highlights of a Kauai Vacation.

Exploring the South Shore

The South Shore is much drier and has great beaches but with a more “resorty” feel. The other main attractions of this area are the drive up to Waimea Canyon and the Kalalau lookouts and the Allerton and McBryde Gardens.

The area is compact, with plenty of resorts occupying much of the oceanfront real estate. You’ll also find some attractive shopping malls and many options for eating.

Walking Trail

I stayed at the Point at Poipu (more below) which is steps from a trail that runs from Shipwreck Beach through the amazing poolside areas of the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa. Here are some shots taken along the pathway:

A longer “out and back” trail is the Mala’ulepu Heritage Trail that goes from the southeast corner of Shipwreck Beach along sand-dune cliffs to Punahoa Point.

Poipu Beach Park

Considered one of the most accessible and largest beaches in the area, Poipu Beach Park is a wonderful place to spend an afternoon. There is a fair bit of parking, the swimming area is protected, and the snorkeling right from the beach is pretty good.

Wear water shoes when wading into the ocean. I was surprised to discover rocky shelves underfoot rather than sand. You may be lucky and see basking monk seals and sea turtles on the sands at Poipu Beach Park.

I highly recommend making reservations at Brennecke’s, right across the street from Poipu Beach Park. Dine on really tasty food while enjoying a view of the ocean. My seafood risotto was divine.

Spouting Horn

This astonishing blow hole is a must-see when you’re driving along the South Shore on your way to the Allerton and McBryde Gardens. The blow hole is one of the most visited and photographed sites on the island. In fact, the only time during my trip that I saw a tour bus was at Spouting Horn.

Wander over to the railings and enjoy the spectacle. Every few seconds, the waves are forced up through a hole in the rocks in a fair imitation of Old Faithful but with sea water.

Waimea Canyon and Kalalau Lookouts

Take a few hours on a sunny day (make sure it’s sunny!) to drive up to enjoy out-of-this-world views of the Waimea Canyon and the Nāpali Coast. For more about the trip, see my post Six Highlights of a Kauai Vacation.

Tours of Allerton and McBryde Gardens

Make reservations to tour one or both of these gardens. The tours are educational and a feast for all the senses. A highlight is a visit to the giant wavy trees made famous in Jurassic Park. But remember to take mosquito repellent.

For more about touring the Allerton and McBryde Gardens, see my post Six Highlights of a Kauai Vacation.

How Long to Stay

If you have the time and the funds, I suggest staying on Kauai for about two weeks. I stayed for ten days, which wasn’t quite long enough for me to explore Kauai as thoroughly as I would have liked.

When on Kauai, divide your time between the three main regions. On my ten-day trip, I stayed for four nights on the East Shore (known as the Coconut Coast), four nights on the North Shore, and two nights on the South Shore.

For a two-week vacation, I suggest staying two or at most three nights on the East Shore and then a full week on the North Shore and the remaining days on the South Shore. I wished I’d spent longer on the South Shore during my trip, but I’d booked late, and accommodation had become very scarce—or at least accommodation in my price range.

Where to Stay on Kauai

Kauai has a variety of accommodation options and most of them are not inexpensive. You can find some hostels and a handful of budget hotels, but most places are going to put a large dent in your wallet.

Kauai is not the best choice if you are on a limited budget. But if you have the funds, you’ll find some lovely places to stay.

Here are my recommendations for the three areas of Kauai I stayed in: the East Shore, North Shore, and South Shore.

Staying on the East Shore–the Coconut Coast

The East Shore of Kauai is where most Kauai residents live, primarily in Kaa’pa and Lihue which are quite close to the airport. Lihue has its fair share of malls and big box stores (convenient for stocking up).

The area is nicknamed the Coconut Coast or Royal Coconut Coast because of the many coconut palms growing along the coast and highways. Also, most of the resorts in the area feature coconut palms on their grounds.

Kauai Beach Villas

My flight from Vancouver arrived at 9:30 PM when the tropical darkness had well and truly fallen. I didn’t want to drive a long distance in the dark and so I chose a place that was close to the airport but still on the beach.

The Kauai Beach Villas perfectly fit the bill.

It’s about a seven-minute drive due north of Lihue Airport and just off the main highway. Even without GPS, I would have had a hard time getting lost.

The Kauai Beach Villas shares its location with the Kauai Beach Resort & Spa. Driving into the long, tree-lined driveway from the main road, you come first to the cluster of two-story buildings that make up the Kauai Beach Villas.

At 10:30 PM, the front desk for the Kauai Beach Villas—which is more of a condo development than a traditional hotel—was still open, thankfully. I checked in (very friendly staff!) and was given a bracelet to use to access the parking area and my suite. Within minutes, I was walking into a spacious one-bedroom unit on the ground floor.

My Suite at the Kauai Beach Villas

I faced the lagoon and gardens. When I woke up before dawn on my first full day in Kauai, I strolled for about five minutes through charmingly landscaped grounds to a wide and sandy beach. While not good for swimming (way too rough), the beach faced east which meant I was about to experience my very first Kauai sunrise.

Several people were already gathered on the beach, cameras in hand, to await the arrival of the sun. Coming from a wet and chilly Vancouver, I felt like I’d been teleported to paradise as the warm winds swirled my skirts and the sound of the waves whooshed away jet lag.

I liked the Kauai Beach Villas because it was an easy drive from the airport, close to the beach and the adjacent resort had a restaurant, convenience store, and swimming pools.

My cosy unit was a great place to watch the only big rainstorm I experienced during my ten days on the island. It was on the first day and I was worried that rain was going to be a feature of my trip. Fortunately, I had pretty much clear skies for the rest of the trip. Here’s a video of the rainstorm taken from my lanai at the Kauai Beach Villas.

Other Accommodation Options on the East Shore

Several other accommodation options are located on the East Shore. Check the map below.

Booking.com

Staying on the North Shore

After my four nights at Kauai Beach Villas, I drove north to Princeville on Kauai’s North Shore.

Princeville itself is not really my cup of tea, to be honest. Basically, it’s a collection of resorts and vacation condos scattered atop the cliffs between Kīlauea Lighthouse and Hanalei Bay. The whole area, with its sleek developments, golf courses, and one touristy mall, feels very buffed and over-landscaped, kind of like a Pacific Palm Springs.

But Princeville makes an excellent home base for exploring the North Shore. Also, most of the accommodation options on the North Shore are in the area. Fortunately, a quick and achingly scenic drive north takes you down a winding road to gorgeous Hanalei Bay.

Sealodge F6 at Princeville

I stayed at Unit F6 at SeaLodge. Unit F6 was on the second floor of one of the many building in the 3-story SeaLodge condo development. Each unit is privately owned, either by individuals or by a vacation rental company. SeaLodge F6 is owned by Vancasa Vacation Rentals, and I booked it through booking.com (my go-to site for accommodations whenever I travel).

From the outside, the SeaLodge development is not particularly attractive with its brown, weathered shingles and boxy architecture. However, the one-bedroom unit that I stayed in was perfect. I had an outstanding view of the ocean from both the comfortable living room and the bedroom. Each night, I was lulled to sleep by the sound of the waves crashing onto the beach below the cliffs.

I’ve read some reviews stating that not all the units at SeaLodge are as nice as Unit F6 so make sure you search for reviews of the specific unit you’re considering before you book.

Other Accommodation Options on the North Shore

Find other accommodation options in Princeville and Hanalei:

Booking.com

Staying on the South Shore

My last stop was Kauai’s South Shore for two nights. I definitely recommend you stay longer on the South Shore. This is probably the most resort-heavy area of Kauai with a wide range of accommodation and restaurant options, great beaches, reliably sunny weather, and proximity to one of the world’s great drives up to Waimea Canyon and the Kalalau lookouts.

The Point at Poipu

I stayed in the Point at Poipu, a large resort consisting of two-bedroom units with either garden or ocean views. As a solo traveler, a two-bedroom unit was overkill, but that was all that was available at the time I booked.

To save a few pennies, I’d booked a unit with a garden view rather than an ocean view. But, lucky me, I was given a fabulous ground floor unit that had both ocean and garden views. Score!

The Point at Poipu also has a large swimming pool which I only swam in once. But one of the best things about the Point at Poipu is its proximity to the ocean as well as the very, very swishy Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort and Spa right next door.

On my first morning, I walked out to the shoreline path in the direction of the Hyatt. As the sun rose, I snapped a ridiculous number of pictures of the lush, tropical grounds, fancifully landscaped swimming pools, and ponds brimming with fat koi.

I treated myself to the buffet breakfast at the Ilima Terrace restaurant. Big mistake! Over-priced and with mediocre and tasteless food, the buffet was a disappointment. However, service was friendly and efficient, and the view was nice, so that was some compensation. Skip the buffet and pick up a coffee and pastry at the Seaview Terrace after wandering through the magnificent lobby and admiring the orchid garden.

Find more accommodation options on the South Shore on booking.com.

Booking.com

All three of my accommodation choices on Kauai were condo units with kitchens. Food prices, like all prices on Kauai, are very high. You can save a little bit by occasionally cooking or at least heating up take-out. Also, having more room to stretch out is, well, nice!

Conclusion

In this post, I’ve touched on what to see on the East Shore, North Shore and South Shore of Kauai, and shared my accommodation suggestions.

But I’ve just scratched the surface! On Kauai, you can enjoy so many cool activities, from hiking to snorkeling to helicopter rides. Check out what I consider the highlights of a Kauai vacation in my post Six Highlights of a Kauai Vacation.