Carol Cram in front of the National Gallery of Canada

National Gallery of Canada: Best Bets for the Artsy Traveler

If you love art and you’re visiting Ottawa, than you don’t want to miss the iconic National Gallery of Canada.

It is truly a national treasure, and one of the reasons why I was very pleased when my niece moved to Ottawa a few years ago.

Now I have an excuse to visit Ottawa more often, which means I can spend more time at the National Gallery!

Photo of the glass and steel façade of the National Gallery of Canada with a sign that reads “National Gallery of Canada, Ottawa's Crown Jewel,” and the website "artsytraveler.com" at the bottom.

To help you enjoy this wonderful gallery, I’ve put together a list of my 20 favorite pieces. These are just the tip of the iceberg, chosen from room after glorious room of masterpieces in the Canadian collection.

When you go, you’ll find many more pieces to marvel at.

Overview

The National Gallery of Canada is an excellent museum both inside and out.

Outside, the striking glass structure built in 1988 echoes the shape of the library on Parliament Hill that it overlooks.

Inside is a comprehensive collection of the best of the best of Canadian painting, particularly the Group of Seven and some notable moderns.

I visited the National Gallery of Canada with my daughter on a brilliant blue-sky day in early February after checking out Winterlude, eating my very first sugar shack maple-syrup lollilop (so delicious), and strolling past Parliament Hill (rated the #1 attraction in Ottawa on Trip Advisor!)

Two women smiling in front of the Canadian Parliament buildings in Ottawa, with snow covering the ground and cranes in the background.
On Parliament Hill in Ottawa on a crystal-cold February day

Location of the National Gallery of Canada

The National Gallery is a short walk from Parliament Hill along the Rideau Canal and quite close to the Byward Market.

The map below shows the location of the gallery along with a few landmarks such as the Parliament Buildings, the Rideau Centre, and the Ottawa Art Gallery (also worth a visit).

Map courtesy of Wanderlog, the best trip planner app on iOS and Android

Meet Maman

On your way into the gallery, you can’t help noticing the massive sculpture by Louise Bourgeois. Called Maman and created in 1999, the giant egg-carrying arachnid cast in bronze was inspired by Bourgeois’s own mom.

If you don’t much like spiders, you might want to walk quickly past Maman, but if you’re not too bothered, linger a while and take some striking pictures!

Woman in winter clothing standing in front of a large black spider sculpture outside the National Gallery of Canada, with snowy ground and the Notre-Dame Basilica in the background.
Carol & Maman

Touring the Canadian Collection

On my most recent visit to the National Gallery of Canada, I entered the main Canadian collection from the moderns and traversed backwards to the colonial and pre-colonial eras.

Usually, I start old and end new, but I found going backwards was a refreshing way to get a different perspective on the collection.

In addition to the large collection of Canadian art on the main floor, the National Gallery also includes a comprehensive collection of European and American art, and a large area devoted to contemporary work (most of which was kind of missable, to be honest).

Because I’m limiting this post to just 20 of my faves, I’m focusing only on the Canadian collection.

Ready? Let’s start with the moderns.

Modern art–as opposed to contemporary art–includes works from the mid 20th century until about the 1970s.

I’ve limited myself to five faves, presented in the order in which I came across them and listed by artist name rather than the name of the work.

Norval Morrisseau (called Copper Thunderhead)

Norval Morrisseau is credited with creating a completely new art movement inspired by non-European aesthetic conventions and iconography.

His work is a visual translation of an Anishnaabe worldview that is based on oral tradition, individual experience, and heritage.

I don’t think anyone could look at a painting by Morrisseau and not be enchanted. The vibrant colors and intriguing shapes, along with his original depictions of animals and people, are irresistible.

His work is immediately recognizable and so compelling. This painting was the first I gravitated to when I entered the room.

Vibrant painting by Norval Morrisseau with bold, colorful figures, birds, and an abstract eagle, rendered in Indigenous Woodland art style.
Norval Morrisseau (called Copper Thunderhead), Artist and Shaman between Two Worlds (1980)

Alex Colville

Alex Colville’s hyper-realistic paintings depict everyday life in the Maritimes. This piece is one of my favorites (and probably Colville’s most famous) because it beautifully captures the feel of a sunny, breezy day in summer.

Also, what is the woman looking at? Prince Edward Island? Another boat? Us? It’s enigmatic and yet relatable.

The painting depicts Colville in the background and his wife Rhoda in the foreground holding the binoculars.

Realistic painting by Alex Colville of a woman with binoculars looking toward the viewer, seated on a boat with a large white funnel and blue sky in the background.
Alex Colville, To Prince Edward Island (1965)

Art McKay

I was unfamiliar with Art McKay, although my husband, painter Gregg Simpson, has since told me that he met him back in the 1970s.

I included his work simply because I really liked it. It reminds me of a Pollock but with more fluid movement. Apparently, McKay was inspired to pursue abstraction after meeting the American abstract painter Barnett Newman in 1959.

In this painting, the limited palette (black, white, blue) produces a compellingly energetic work that drew me in. I wanted to sit with it for a while, to feel the paint swirling around me like clouds seen from outer space.

Abstract painting by Art McKay with a splatter design featuring textured black and white patches on a deep blue background.
Art McKay, Flat Blue, Flat White, Stove Enamel (1960)

Jean Paul Riopelle

The National Gallery of Canada includes several paintings by Jean Paul Riopelle in its collection, which is good news for me because I’m a big fan of his work.

This massive triptych is so fabulously joyous. Riopelle used a palette knife to apply paint directly to the surface using free and “automatic” gestures. He is known as the most ambitious artist in the Automatistes movement.

The title of the piece, “Pavane”, refers to the 16th century Spanish dance that is characterized by a stately and processional rhythm. And this painting fairly pulsates with rhythm.

I couldn’t do the piece justice with a single photograph and so took this video.

Jean Paul Riopelle, Pavane (1954)

Kathleen Munn

I had never heard of Kathleen Munn (1887-1974) whom I discovered was one of the leading modernist painters in Toronto in the 1920s.

I’m happy to see that the National Gallery is including more women in its collection. This appealing piece reminds me of a Franz Marc with its colorful shapes and abstracted landscape elements.

Painting with colorful, overlapping geometric shapes and lines in vivid hues of yellow, red, and blue, creating a dynamic composition.
Kathleen Munn, Untitled (1926-28)

Group of Seven & Friends at the National Gallery

The Group of Seven are justifiably famous for creating paintings that showed the Canadian landscape to the world back in the early 20th century.

Also known as the Algonquin School, the Group of Seven includes Frank Carmichael, Lawren Harris, A. Y. Jackson, Frank Johnston, Arthur Lismer, J. E. H. MacDonald, and Fred Varley. Other artists associated with the group are A. J. Casson, Tom Thomson, and Emily Carr.

The National Gallery devotes several rooms to showcasing the work of these artists. I’ve selected my favorites in no particular order, except that I start with my fave, Lawren Harris.

Lawren Harris

Lawren Harris is hands-down my most beloved Group of Seven artist. I particularly appreciate his later work when he moved away from landscape and toward a spiritually-inspired form of abstraction.

The painting below is an example of his later work when he was focusing on producing abstract art using geometric compositions with layered planes.

Geometric abstract painting with angular shapes in shades of blue, yellow, and red, depicting a stylized modern design.
Lawren Harris, Abstraction (1939)

This piece is one of Harris’s most famous. It depicts the north shore of Lake Superior and was painted in 1926 when Harris traveled to the region with fellow Group of Seven artist A. Y. Jackson.

Painting of a tall, jagged rock formation with beams of light streaming through clouds and a serene body of water in the background.
Lawren Harris, North Shore, Lake Superior (1926)

Call me a tourist (an artsy tourist), but I couldn’t resist taking a selfie in front of this most iconic of paintings.

Selfie of a woman wearing a red jacket in front of a Lawren Harris painting depicting a surreal, towering formation under a dramatic sky, displayed in a gallery.
Geeking out at the National Gallery of Canada

J. E. H. MacDonald

Apparently, this painting by J. E. H. MacDonald was panned by the critics when it was first exhibited in the 1920s. One critic even compared the painting to a huge tomato salad. That seems a bit harsh!

I was immediately drawn to this painting because of its exuberant depiction of fecundity. Some of the plants are decaying, some are blooming, and all are jumbled together in a glorious mess of in-your-face nature. It’s awesome!

A lush garden scene filled with colorful flowers, drooping sunflowers, and rich foliage, painted with expressive, textured brushwork.
J. E. H. MacDonald, The Tangled Garden (1916)

A. Y. Jackson

How much more Canadian can this get–red maple leaves in front of a rushing river. The painting is even called “The Red Maple” and is based on a sketch from nature produced along the Oxtongue River in Algonquin Park.

A landscape painting of a river with rapids flowing through a rocky scene, with bright red foliage in the foreground.
A. Y. Jackson, The Red Maple (1914)

Arthur Lismer

Is this iconically Ontario or what? To me, this depiction of Georgian Bay in a storm really captures the swirling clouds and choppy waves of the Great Lakes region. It really couldn’t be anywhere else in Canada!

A painting of a stormy sea with a twisted pine tree in the foreground, dramatic waves, and dark clouds in the sky.
Arthur Lismer, A September Gale, Georgian Bay (1921)

F. H. Varley

Same with this piece, which also depicts a storm on Georgian Bay. The Group of Seven artists are credited with being quintessentially Canadian, but really, they are at heart Ontarians.

As someone born and bred in British Columbia, I don’t particularly resonate with the Ontario landscape. However, I can appreciate it and also how its depiction by the Group of Seven artists showcased a corner of Canada’s vast landscape to the world.

A windswept coastal scene featuring a lone, twisted pine tree on a rocky outcrop, with turbulent water below and a moody sky.
F. H. Varley, Stormy Weather, Georgian Bay (1921)

Franklin Carmichael

Carmichael is my second favorite Group of Seven artist after Lawren Harris; I even have a print of one of his paintings in my office.

See how he smashes together landscape elements to produce a visual earthquake for the viewer. You can feel the seismic energy of the rain, the snow, and the wind in his paintings.

A painting of rolling hills and dramatic storm clouds with rays of sunlight breaking through, depicting a rugged, rural Canadian landscape.
Franklin Carmichael, Snow Clouds (1938)

Tom Thomson

Although he was not formally considered a member of the Group of Seven, the paintings by Tom Thomson are pretty much synonymous with most people’s idea of Group of Seven landscapes.

The National Gallery includes a large display of several dozen of Thomson’s small canvases. This video gives a good idea of the variety and quality of these exquisite gems.

Small paintings by Tom Thomson

Emily Carr

The other most famous artist who was not part of the Group of Seven, but definitely associated with them, is BC’s own Emily Carr. The National Gallery includes several of her pieces.

Most depict the brooding West Coast rainforest–a landscape I definitely resonate with since it’s the one I see outside my window as I write this!

A massive cedar tree is directly in my line of sight. It doesn’t take much imagination to see it as Carr did–a swirling, living mass of green energy thrusting skyward. Here are two of her pieces that I particularly liked.

A forest landscape painting with towering trees and swirling, textured brushstrokes, capturing the dense wilderness.
Emily Carr, Something Unnamed (1937)
A painting of totem poles standing in front of a dramatic landscape of mountains and water, painted in Carr’s signature post-impressionist style.
Emily Carr, Totems (1930)

Indigenous Art

The National Gallery does a good job of including several fabulous pieces of indigenous art in the collection of paintings by artists of mostly European descent.

Here are two pieces I admired.

A vibrant Indigenous mask adorned with bold red, blue, black, and white designs, featuring feathers and carved wings extending outward.
Marven G. Tallio, Raven Sun Transformation Mask (1966)
A traditional Indigenous wooden mask with intricate carvings of geometric and swirling patterns, displayed against a white background.
John Marston (QAP’U’LUQ), Spirit of the Forest – Mother Nature (2013)

Other Notable Pieces

While the stars of the show at the National Gallery are the paintings by the Group of Seven and the pieces of indigenous art, I saw some new-to-me pieces worth mentioning.

Here is yet another depiction of Lake Superior (there are many of them in the National Gallery!), which I liked because of the way in which the houses are all jumbled together in front of a massive landscape and because it’s painted by a woman artist I’d never heard of, Yvonne McKague Housser.

She painted this piece just a few years after Lawren Harris made the Lake Superior region famous.

A painting depicting a coastal scene with a small village nestled among rolling hills and a large, dark mountain in the background. The sky is filled with streaks of clouds and beams of light filtering through.
Yvonne McKague Housser, Rossport, Lake Superior (1929)

This piece from the 19th century of loggers clear-cutting the area where I now live resonated because of the interesting way in which the artist depicted the figures next to the logs.

The painting catches one moment during the workday. No one is posing; no one cares about posing. They are just getting on with a brutal day’s labor.

A historical painting of men in the process of logging, featuring several workers in hats and suspenders lifting and rolling large logs onto a cart, surrounded by fallen trees and horses in a dusty clearing.
George A. Reid, Logging (1888)

Yes, I’m a sucker for a good still life, and I particularly liked this piece by Quebec artist Joseph Légaré. Apparently, it’s the first still life executed in Canada, although I’m not sure how anyone can be 100% sure of that!

Anyway, it’s a nice painting.

A painting depicting a still life of red and white grape clusters, vines, and autumn leaves draped against a tree, with a scenic backdrop of distant hills and a golden sunset sky.
Joseph Légaré, Still-life with Grapes (1826)

And Finally – A Shout-Out to the Gift Shop

I love a good museum gift shop and the one at the National Gallery of Canada is right up there in my top ten all-time favorite museum gift shops.

There’s a wonderful selection of quality gift items, many with indigenous designs and the assurance that the money actually goes to the artists. Hopefully, that is true because in my last two trips to the National Gallery (February 2023 and December 2021), I purchased several indigenously-designed items there.

Definitely check it out after you’ve toured the National Gallery. I dare you to leave without buying something!

Practical Information

The National Gallery of Canada is located at 380 Sussex Drive in Ottawa (see #1 on the map at the beginning of this post). It is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 5 pm (8 pm on Thursday), and closed on Monday. Adults cost $20; seniors $18; and 24 and under & students $10. Children under 11 are free.

Tours & Tickets in Ottawa

Here are some guided bus tours of Ottawa and options for tickets to some of Ottawa’s major museums with Tiqets.com to check out:

Looking for a good walking tour? I recommend GuruWalks. Here are the walks available in Ottawa:

Where to Stay in Ottawa

You’ll find lots of business-style hotels in downtown Ottawa in addition to the iconic Chateau Laurier. Here are a few suggestions for upscale choices within walking distance of the National Gallery of Canada the the Parliament Buildings.

  • Le Germain Hotel Ottawa: Close to Byward Market and a 2-minute walk from the Rideau Centre. Rooms are stylish and comfortable.
  • Lord Elgin Hotel: This is an oldie (I first stayed there in 1967 when I was very young!) and it’s certainly venerable and historic. A good choice if you want to be in the center of downtown Ottawa just steps from the Parliament Buildings.
  • Fairmount Chateau Laurier: If you’re feeling really flush and want to stay in one of Canada’s most iconic hotels, then treat yourself to the Chateau Laurier. You only live once!

Conclusion

The National Gallery of Canada’s permanent collection is stunning and extremely safe–some would say conservative. The focus is on the crowd-pleasing paintings by the Group of Seven (and hey, I was pleased), but there are very few paintings by more recent Canadian artists.

Still, it’s a great collection and worth a few hours of your time when visiting Ottawa, a city with its fair share of excellent museums.

Have you visited the National Gallery of Canada? What are some of your favorites? Share in the comments below.

Other Posts About Great Art Museums

Best Three Copenhagen Museums to Discover and Enjoy

Wonderful museums are thick on the ground in Copenhagen. You’ll be spoiled for choice. But if your time is limited, I suggest you focus on what I consider three of the best museum experiences in Copenhagen.


Each of these museums is world-class and worth a trip to Denmark’s fabulous capital city just to visit them.

Armed with a Copenhagen Card, I ventured forth into the bustling streets of Copenhagen for three amazing Artsy Traveler experiences.

Highlights at a Glance

For more information about what to do and see in Copenhagen, also check out my post 15 Must-Dos in Copenhagen for the Artsy Traveler

Location of Museums

The map below shows the location of the three museums described in this post: The Design Museum (#1), the Danish National Museum (#2) and the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (#3).

This map was created with Wanderlog, an itinerary planner on iOS and Android

Staying in Copenhagen

If you’re looking for lots of space in the atmospheric Nyhavn area, you can’t go wrong with this two-bedroom apartment located in one of the colorful houses right on the harbor.

Another good option is the stylishly upscale Phoenix Copenhagen, also in the Nyhavn area. The hotel is pretty high end price-wise, but the staff are friendly, the marble lobby is gorgeous and the restaurant downstairs serves hearty food, particularly welcome on the cold and rainy night I stayed.

The map below provides you with several more options.


Design Museum

Called the Designmuseum Danmark, this museum is absolutely stunning (see #1 on the map above).

Even if you’ve never in your life thought about design, put this museum on your list of must-sees while in Copenhagen. It tells the story of Danish design in room after room of artful displays of everything from furniture to objects to textiles to cutlery to posters, and a lot more.

I never wanted to leave, although after my visit, I did enjoy relaxing in the lovely courtyard and drinking lattes served by an enthusiastic young man. He was so pleased when we raved to him about how much we loved the museum.

A wide green lawn surrounded by ivy-covered historic buildings, framed by a row of evenly spaced trees under a clear blue sky.
Breezy and relaxing outdoor area at the Designmuseum Danmark
A person sitting at an outdoor cafe, wearing sunglasses and a relaxed expression, with a tree-lined garden and historic building in the background.
Gregg relaxing after touring the Designmuseum Danmark

The many rooms in the Designmuseum Danmark are arranged around themed exhibitions that run for quite a long time. For the most up-to-date information about current and upcoming exhibitions, check the museum’s website.

Current Exhibition: The Power of Print showcases textiles from the greatest Danish fabric printers throughout history and runs to January 4, 2026.

Each display is accompanied by informative explanations in both Danish and English. Here’s an overview of the exhibitions I saw at the Designmuseum Danmark. Apart from The Future is Present, all the exhibitions are permanent.

The Future is Present

During my visit in 2023, I enjoyed The Future is Present special exhibition. This marvelous exhibition explored many of the ways in which designers around the world are finding solutions to challenges such as climate change, refugee flows, pandemics, and more.

How do we live together in communities, relate to each other, and interact with our environments? And what role does design play?

The many displays are both beautiful and thought-provoking.

One of my favorites is this display of biodegradable urns. The pendant attached to the urn is planted so that loved ones can enjoy “the growing flowers and a tree in a place for conversation and remembrance.”

A row of pastel-colored ceramic vessels with matching decorative lids and strings, displayed on a textured surface in a modern design exhibit.
Biodegradable urns – a way to remember loved ones long after their passing

Wonder

This exhibition featured objects from some of the Designmuseum’s many collections. The exhibition tells the story of how a thing becomes an object in a private collection or in a museum.

Each display is imaginatively presented and accompanied by excellent commentary.

You could spend a lot of time in the Designmuseum Danmark!

Here’s a sampling of some of the objects in the Wonder exhibition.

A nineteenth-century wooden chair with elegant, curved arms and a black leather seat, showcased in a softly lit display case.
Gorgeously designed chair from the 19th Century
A detailed Art Nouveau necklace featuring intricate enamel and gemstone details, with a central female figure framed by ornamental motifs.
Art nouveau necklace

The Magic of Form

Our favorite exhibition was The Magic of Form that took us on a fabulous journey through Danish design history. As anyone who has seen a piece of Danish modern furniture knows, Denmark and design go hand in hand.

The Danes have a knack for creating marvelously designed furniture that is both beautiful and practical.

The exhibition is massive–room after room of objects and pieces of furniture that follow the historical development of Danish design from around 1900 to the present. Every time I entered a new room, I gasped in wonder.

Not only were the objects themselves stunning, but also the way in which they were presented raised my experience of museum display techniques to new heights.

Here’s a selection of a few of the rooms and displays I wandered through.

A curated selection of iconic minimalist chairs and mobiles in a design museum, showcasing mid-century modern aesthetics with a focus on clean lines and organic shapes.
Danish Modern chairs imaginatively displayed
A display of modern ceramics and textiles, including sculptural blue vases, a textured clay vessel, and a patterned fabric wall hanging, illuminated by a contemporary pendant light.
Vases, a modern light fixture, and an abstract painting
A vibrant exhibit with colorful mid-century modern furniture and decor pieces, including a red chair, geometric shapes, and vintage light fixtures, all set on a multicolored pedestal display.
Chock full of color and form
A collection of unique, modernist furniture and sculptures displayed against a neutral gray backdrop, featuring abstract chairs, wooden carvings, and sculptural art forms.
Danish Modern run amok
Modern lamps at the Design Museum in Copenhagenlamps
Ultra modern Danish Modern chic
A contemporary design installation featuring a tall, orange structure with circular cutouts, paired with futuristic chairs and reflective backdrops.
Colorful sculpture

Other Exhibitions

When I toured the Designmuseum Danmark, I also saw two other exhibitions.

The Table, Cover Thyself exhibition of plates and cultlery showed a myriad selection of table settings including plates, cutlery, tureens, figurines, and more. I particularly loved these two jugs.

A vibrant exhibit of a blue, cone-shaped coffee jug and a yellow, spherical jug displayed on a backlit shelf at the Designmuseum Danmark
Two beautifully designed coffee jugs

The Powerful Patterns exhibition explored patterns as an artform and included a wealth of textiles and costumes, including this beautiful dress.

A historical floral-patterned gown from the 18th century displayed on a mannequin at the Designmuseum Danmark, showcasing intricate stitching and design.
Dress with exquisite embroidery

The Designmuseum Danmark was one of the many highlights of my week in Copenhagen. I can hardly wait to return to see what new exhibitions are being featured.

And to top off my visit, I discovered that even a trip to the ladies room was fraught with design. Here’s what I saw when I look up from where I was, um, sitting:

A unique yellow translucent chair displayed from below, mounted on a ceiling in the Designmuseum Danmark.
Chair suspended over a toilet stall at the Designmuseum Danmark

The Danes have a sense of humor for sure!

Design Museum Practical Information

The Designmuseum Danmark is open from 10 am to 6 pm Tuesday to Sunday (closed Monday). Admission is 130 DKK for adults, but you can use your Copenhagen Card (see below for details). The museum is located at Bredgade 68 and makes a great stop on the way to see the Little Mermaid in the Copenhagen harbor.


The National Museum of Denmark

The Nationalmuseet (#2 on the map at the top of this post) is another major museum in which you could get lost for hours. In fact, I ran out of steam after touring the awesome collection of prehistory and Viking artifacts and didn’t see all the museum has to offer.

All the more reason to return!

But even if you, like me, only manage to tour half the museum, make sure it’s the half that includes the Danish prehistory and Viking collections. Each display is cleverly mounted and includes fascinating commentary in Danish and English.

Danish Prehistory Collection

I have a soft spot for prehistory museums and monuments, and visit them whenever I can. Check out my post on seven of my fave prehistory spots in Europe. Given my predelictions, I naturally made a beeline for the Danish Prehistory collection.

What a treasure trove!

The exhibition features objects made prior to 1050 AD and extending way, way back into the misty mists of time (like 6000 BCE!) and includes unique archaeological treasures like the Trundholm Chariot of the Sun, the Egtved girl’s grave, the Gundestrup cauldron, the Hoby tomb, and more.

Twenty-four rooms arranged in a large square enclosing the gardens take you from the earliest years up to the Viking era.

I was astonished and enthralled by the age of many of the prehistoric objects in the first several rooms. A highlight is the skeleton of a massive bull elk that perished in a bog over 8500 years ago.

A reconstructed elk skeleton with large antlers on display, with a projected forest background at the National Museum of Denmark.
The Tåderup Elk at the Danish National Museum

Here are two of my favorite displays, but there were many more. You could spend a very long time in the Danish prehistory rooms.

A museum exhibit featuring small, carved amber figurines in various shapes, such as animals, labeled as 'Magical Patterns
Polished figures from prehistoric grave sites
A collection of ancient bronze helmets and horn accessories displayed in a glass case, highlighting intricate detailing and historical craftsmanship.
Viksø helmets from the Bronze Age

Viking Exhibition

Eventually, you’ll arrive at the Viking exhibition to be confronted by a model of a full-size Viking ship (and it’s really big!). The ship dominates the large room that includes displays that trace Denmark’s huge contribution to world history.

At one time, Vikings controlled vast swathes of Europe, extending all the way to North America. A wall-size map at the beginning of the exhibition shows how far their influence extended.

A museum display of traditional Viking-era clothing, including a red dress and a white tunic with fur-lined cloaks, shown on mannequins at the National Museum of Denmark.
Sartorial elegance of the Vikings; a portion of the ship model is in the background

The Danes are very proud of their Viking heritage, as evidenced by the care they’ve taken to mount such a spectacular exhibition.

The Raid Experience

Included in the Viking exhibition is a new multi-media experience called “The Raid” that invites guests to “hop aboard and join the Vikings on an adventurous raid.”

“The Raid” isn’t actually a ride. You walk through a series of rooms, stopping in each to watch a 360-degree projection accompanied by commentary in English. The projections tell the exciting story of Björn Ironside, the legendary Viking who led 62 ships on an ill-fated journey to Rome.

Along the way, they plunder and pillage as Vikings are wont to do, but never actually make it to Rome. They do make it into the Mediterranean, however. Unfortunately, on their way out again, they are almost destroyed by large firebombs raining down upon them from the cliffs above the Strait of Gibraltar.

Poor Bjorn perishes and very few ships make it back to Denmark. So ends Bjorn’s raid, only to be revived 1500-odd years later for tourists to wonder at.

A poster from the National Museum of Denmark featuring two men in Viking costumes. The text reads, 'Join the Vikings on Raid!' in English and Danish.
Poster for “The Raid” at the Danish National Museum

What Else to See at the National Museum

The museum includes exhibitions from Denmark’s Middle Ages and Renaissance, the histories of Denmark, an antique collection, the Children’s Museum, Voices from the Colonies, and a Coin and Medal Collection in addition to special exhibitions.

Everything is state-of-the-art, a real testament to recent advances in museumology.

I need to go back!

A picturesque canal in Copenhagen, lined with boats and historic buildings, with a stone bridge in the distance under a bright, partly cloudy sky.
On the way to the National Museum of Denmark

National Museum of Denmark Practical Information

The National Museum of Denmark is located in the Prince’s Palace at Ny Vestergade 10. It’s within walking distance from Nyhavn where I recommend you stay. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00 (closed Monday) and covered by the Copenhagen Card.


Louisiana Museum of Modern Art

The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (#3 on the map at the top of this post) is about a 30-minute train ride north of Copenhagen. It’s world-renowned as one of Europe’s best modern art museums, and therefore a must-visit for the Artsy Traveler!

The setting of the museum on the North Sea and the many outdoor sculptures are fabulous and well worth the trip.

The food in the restaurant overlooking the water is also excellent!

Founded by Knud W. Jensen to house Danish modern art, the museum opened in 1958. Within a few years, the focus shifted from featuring predominantly Danish art to becoming an international museum that showcased internationally renowned artists.

Check what exhibitions are on, but even if they don’t appeal, visit the museum anyway. It makes for a lovely morning out from Copenhagen. You reach it by train (covered by the Copenhagen Card) followed by a pleasant 20-minute stroll along a suburban road to the museum.

After visiting the exhibitions, head outside where the real stars of the museum are located. Here’s a selection of sculptures dotted all around the large property.

A person standing next to a large, abstract bronze sculpture with rounded shapes, set on a stone-paved platform with a view of the sea in the background.
A collection of marble-like spherical sculptures of varying sizes and colors, displayed on a green lawn near a glass building surrounded by trees.
An outdoor seating area at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, with tables and chairs overlooking a grassy lawn and waterfront sculptures, including a colorful mobile and black angular forms.
A modern abstract black metal sculpture with fluid, interconnected shapes, displayed in a grassy area under tree cover.
A geometric granite sculpture consisting of a circular form with a diagonal cut, placed on a square pedestal in a cobblestone and wooded outdoor area.
A whimsical bronze sculpture resembling a humanoid figure with large, circular eyes, set in an outdoor garden surrounded by lush greenery.

Louisiana Museum of Modern Art Practical Information

The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is located in Humlebæk about 30 minutes north of Copenhagen. Catch the train from the main train station and then walk about twenty minutes to the museum. If you have a car, you can drive there. Ample parking is provided. The museum is open Tuesday to Friday from 10:00 to 22:00 and Saturday and Sunday from 11:00 to 18:00 (closed Monday) and covered by the Copenhagen Card.


Purchase the Copenhagen Card

Not all tourist cards are great value, but the Copenhagen Card is definitely worth purchasing. It covers so much of what you’ll want to see in Copenhagen, including all three of the museums covered in this post along with dozens more museums (there are a LOT of museums in Copenhagen), attractions such as Tivoli Gardens (worth a visit to see the lights in the evening), and all your transportation in and around Copenhagen.

You can use it on the local subways and on trains that go farther afield to popular destinations such as Frederiksburg Castle, Kronburg Castle, and the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. It truly is a bargain and a major time-saver.

I almost never buy city cards, but I’m very glad I purchased the Copenhagen Card. Having it saved me loads of time, made sightseeing a pleasure, and took all the stress out of riding public transit. It’s a winner!

Click the image below to purchase the Copenhagen card.

Copenhagen Tours & Tickets

Check out more tours and things to do in marvelous Copenhagen with Get Your Guide.

You can also purchase tickets directly through Tiqets.com


Copenhagen Walking Tours

GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Copenhagen!

Conclusion

Have you visited museums in Copenhagen? Which ones did you visit and recommend? Please share in the comments below.

Here are more posts about awesome museums to visit in England and Europe:

Exterior of the National Gallery in London

What to See at London’s National Gallery: The Best of the Best

If you love art and you’re London-bound, than you must visit the National Gallery.

love this place and pop in every chance I get. The National Gallery in London is small enough to enjoy in a few hours without getting exhausted (unlike the Louvre in Paris), and yet big enough to include an astonishing collection of masterpieces from the Middle Ages to the Impressionists.

Also, London’s National Gallery is free, which is amazing considering that every other major art museum in Europe charges at least 20 to 30 Euros.

Pinterest graphic with the text "National Gallery London: The Best of the Best" over a picture of the exterior of the Natoinal Gallery at Trafalgar Square in London, England.

Five Favorites at a Glance

Here are my top five favorites pieces at the National Gallery (and it was a tough choice)!

Overview

On my latest trip to London, I dropped by the National Gallery fairly late in the day and so only had an hour to spend before it closed. An hour is not enough, but if it’s all you have, you won’t be disappointed.

I wandered in a trance from room to room, eyes tearing up as every turn brought so many favorites before me. The National Gallery includes an impressive number of western art’s biggest biggies.

In this post, I showcase what I consider the must-see paintings at the National Gallery–the best of the best if you will.

Note that I’ve downloaded images from the National Gallery’s website, which allows display of its images for personal use, including blogs. I was glad to discover this because my own photographs are sometimes a bit crooked and ill-lit! Thank you, National Gallery.

The National Gallery’s medieval collection includes pieces by most of the major painters, including Giotto, Duccio, Lorenzetti, and Lippi.

One of the reasons why I love medieval Italian painting is because of how the artists depicted buildings. While perspective is generally lacking, the artists of this period captured the essence of medieval towns as a hodgepodge of arches and towers built at varying angles and heights.

The arrangements communicate the feeling of a medieval town, rather than just a realistic representation, that still rings true today when you visit places like Siena and San Gimignano in Tuscany.

The Healing of the Man Born Blind by Duccio

I chose this painting because of how Duccio di Buoninsegna depicted the buildings behind the people. I love how the pastel colors of the buildings in the background contrast with the more vibrant robes of the central figures.

This painting is a small panel–one of 54 minutely detailed narrative scenes that was included in Duccio’s Maestà.

A massive work, Maestà is considered one of the most ambitious altarpieces ever created. Most of the rest of the altarpiece is on display in the Museo dell’opera del Duomo in Siena.

Read about it in my post about top cathedrals in Europe in which I include Siena Cathedral adjacent to the Museo. If you’re in Siena, the Museo dell’opera del Duomo (the museum of the cathedral) is a must-see.

When the Maestà was completed in 1311, it was carried through the streets of Siena. One of the characters in my novel The Towers of Tuscany reminiscences about seeing the procession when she was a young girl.

Duccio The Healing of the Man born Blind 1307/8-11 Egg tempera on wood, 45.1 x 46.7 cm National Gallery in London
Duccio The Healing of the Man born Blind 1307/8-11 Egg tempera on wood, 45.1 x 46.7 cm Bought, 1883 NG1140 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG1140

A Group of Four Poor Clares by Ambrogio Lorenzetti

Lorenzetti was active in Siena during the 1300s and likely died of the plague that hit Siena in 1348. I really like his work and so was delighted to discover this piece in the National Gallery.

It’s a fragment of a fresco that was discovered under whitewash in 1855. I love the realism of the faces and their pensive expressions.

Ambrogio Lorenzetti A Group of Four Poor Clares possibly about 1336-40 Fresco with areas of secco, 70.4 × 63.4 cm at the National Gallery in London
Ambrogio Lorenzetti A Group of Four Poor Clares possibly about 1336-40 Fresco with areas of secco, 70.4 × 63.4 cm Bought, 1878 NG1147 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG1147

Italian Renaissance at the National Gallery

So many masterpieces, so little time! Take your time when you get to the rooms containing some of the world’s most famous artists from the Italian Renaissance, most notably Leonardo da Vinci and Botticelli. Have a seat and soak up the Renaissance vibe.

The Burlington House Cartoon by Leonardo da Vinci

I remember the first time I saw this piece when I was student at Reading University in the 1970s. Reading was only 40 minutes by train from London so I often went up to enjoy the art museums.

The Burlington House Cartoon is a large drawing made in preparation for a painting and is the only surviving large-scale drawing done by da Vinci.

I like the contrast of rough and finished in the drawing. Some parts, such as the face of Mary, are beautifully detailed and evocative while others, such as the hand of Saint Anne (Mary’s mother) pointing heavenward, are barely sketched in.

Exhibited in a small, dimly lit room, the piece just glows.

Leonardo da Vinci The Burlington House Cartoon about 1499-1500 Charcoal (and wash?) heightened with white chalk on paper, mounted on canvas, 141.5 x 104.6 cm at the    National Gallery in London
Leonardo da Vinci The Burlington House Cartoon about 1499-1500 Charcoal (and wash?) heightened with white chalk on paper, mounted on canvas, 141.5 x 104.6 cm Purchased with a special grant and contributions from the Art Fund, The Pilgrim Trust, and through a public appeal organised by the Art Fund, 1962 NG6337 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6337

Virgin of the Rocks by Leonardo daVinci

This beautiful painting is one of the most famous in the National Gallery, and a rare example of one of da Vinci’s large-scale paintings.

The techniques he used were ground-breaking at the time, but I think the enduring appeal of the work is because of the expression on the Virgin Mary’s face.

She looks a bit careworn and tired–the image of a mother responsible for the children in her care. Her outstretched hand almost seems to come out of the painting to calm a fretful child.

Leonardo da Vinci, The Virgin of the Rocks, about 1491/2-9 and 1506-8, Oil on poplar, thinned and cradled, 189.5 x 120 cm, Bought, 1880, NG1093, https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG1093

Venus and Mars by Sandro Botticelli

I’ve been a fan of Botticelli’s work since discovering it while taking a first-year History of Art course in 1974.

I’d forgotten that Venus and Mars–one of Botticelli’s most famous paintings–is in the National Gallery, and gasped out loud when I entered the roomful of Botticellis. Fortunately, no one noticed.

There’s so much to love about this painting! The look on Venus’s face as she coolly regards the blissed- out Mars is priceless. She’s clearly not all that impressed!

And then there are the four mischievious nymphs trying to wake up Mars. One of them is even wearing his helmet.

Sandro Botticelli Venus and Mars about 1485 Tempera and oil on poplar, 69.2 x 173 at the National Gallery in London
Sandro Botticelli Venus and Mars about 1485 Tempera and oil on poplar, 69.2 x 173.4 cm Bought, 1874 NG915 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG915

Flemish Masterpieces at the National Gallery

The National Gallery is particularly well endowed with masterpieces from the northern Renaissance. You’ll find several pieces by Rembrandt, two gems by Vermeer, and a famous van Dyck, among many others.

The Arnolfini Portrait by Jan van Eyck

This portrait of Italian merchant Giovanni di Nicolao di Arnolfini and his wife is one of the most famous paintings in the National Gallery, and is considered one of the most famous and intriguing paintings in the world.

There are so many details to examine, and all have significance. For more information about the painting (which was completed in 1434) and why it’s considered so great, check out this analysis on YouTube.

Jan van Eyck The Arnolfini Portrait 1434 Oil on oak, 82.2 x 60 cm at the National Gallery in London
Jan van Eyck The Arnolfini Portrait 1434 Oil on oak, 82.2 x 60 cm Bought, 1842 NG186 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG186

A Woman Bathing in a Stream by Rembrandt

This is such a tender, beautiful painting by Rembrandt, and a bit of a change from his many portraits and self-portraits.

The woman may be Hendrickje Stoffels, who came into Rembrandt’s household to look after his infant son after his first wife, Saskia, died. Hendrickje and Rembrandt became lovers but were unable to marry.

There is a universality about the intimate moment caught in the painting that resonates with anyone who has ever taken off their shoes on a hot day to wade in a cool stream.

Rembrandt A Woman bathing in a Stream (Hendrickje Stoffels?) at the National Gallery in London
Rembrandt A Woman bathing in a Stream (Hendrickje Stoffels?) 1654 Oil on oak, 61.8 x 47 cm Holwell Carr Bequest, 1831 NG54 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG54

A Young Woman Seated at a Virginal by Johannes Vermeer

The word exquisite always come to mind when I look at a painting by Vermeer. 

Detailed and delicate, this painting shows us a moment in time. The young girl is just about to play the virginal, but someone or something has distracted her. Whatever it is, she doesn’t look too thrilled.

One of the ways to appreciate just why Vermeer is considered so great is to look at paintings by his contemporaries. Most depict similar subjects, but you can tell right away that there’s something different about the Vermeers.

The brushwork is finer, the light more skillfully depicted, the backgrounds more perfectly rendered. Vermeer didn’t paint many pieces during his lifetime, but what he did paint was pretty amazing.

hannes Vermeer A Young Woman seated at a Virginal about 1670-2 Oil on canvas, 51.5 x 45.5 cm at the National Gallery in London
Johannes Vermeer A Young Woman seated at a Virginal about 1670-2 Oil on canvas, 51.5 x 45.5 cm Salting Bequest, 1910 NG2568 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG2568

A Boy and A Girl with a Cat and an Eel by Judith Leyster

I was super excited to come across this painting by Judith Leyster, who has been getting more recognition in recent years. The boy and the girl are definitely up to no good!

Judith Leyster A Boy and a Girl with a Cat and an Eel about 1635 Oil on oak, 59.4 × 48.8 cm at the National Gallery in London
Judith Leyster A Boy and a Girl with a Cat and an Eel about 1635 Oil on oak, 59.4 × 48.8 cm Bequeathed by C.F. Leach, 1943 NG5417 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG5417

The Four Elements: Air, Earth, Fire, Water by Joachim Beuckelaer

I had never seen these paintings before. They are not particularly famous, but they are interesting. I couldn’t stop looking at them.

Each painting depicts food according to its relationship to one of the four elements.

In the Air painting, birds are being plucked and sold. Some impressive-looking vegetables are on display in the Earth painting. The Fire painting depicts game being butchered and roasted, and finally many different varieties of fish are ready for market in the Water painting.

The expressions on the faces of the people in the paintings are blank and dour. No one looks like they are enjoying themselves!

But the colors and textures of the foods are so incredibly real. They almost look like they are about to spill out of the paintings onto the floor of the gallery.

Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Air 1570 Oil on canvas, 158 × 216 cm  at the National Gallery in London
Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Air 1570 Oil on canvas, 158 × 216 cm Bought, 2001 NG6587 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6587
Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Earth 1569 Oil on canvas, 158 × 215.4 cm  at the National Gallery in London
Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Earth 1569 Oil on canvas, 158 × 215.4 cm Bought, 2001 NG6585 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6585
Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Fire 1570 Oil on canvas  at the National Gallery in London
Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Fire 1570 Oil on canvas, 158.2 × 215.4 cm Bought, 2001 NG6588 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6588
Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Water 1569 Oil on canvas, 158.1 × 214.9 cm  at the National Gallery in London
Joachim Beuckelaer The Four Elements: Water 1569 Oil on canvas, 158.1 × 214.9 cm Bought, 2001 NG6586 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6586

Baroque Paintings at the National Gallery

Boy Bitten by a Lizard by Caravaggio

In a room full of great paintings, I was instantly drawn to this small painting by Caravaggio of a boy being bitten by a lizard.

The expression on his face is so real and so relatable. The painting was completed in Rome in the mid-1590s and was considered innovative for the time. Apparently, it was unusual for a late-16th-century painting to show such a moment of action.

Caravaggio, however, wasn’t worried about following artistic conventions. He painted directly on the canvas from live models

 Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio Boy bitten by a Lizard about 1594-5 Oil on canvas, 66 x 49.5 cm at the National Gallery in London
Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio Boy bitten by a Lizard about 1594-5 Oil on canvas, 66 x 49.5 cm Bought with the aid of a contribution from the J. Paul Getty Jr Endowment Fund, 1986 NG6504 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6504

British Painting at the National Gallery

Room 34 at the National Gallery contains some of the most beloved paintings by British artists, including William Turner and  John Constable (two of my faves).

The Fighting Temeraire by William Turner

My father bought a print of this painting when he first visited London in the 1960s. It was probably the first real painting I’d ever seen, and I remember loving to look at it when I was a child.

When I saw it again in the National Gallery, I couldn’t help feeling emotional since my father has been gone for several years now and my mother passed quite recently.

Turner’s painting shows the final journey of the Temeraire, a warship that had played a distinguished role in the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805, but by 1838 was ready for the scrap heap.

It’s a poignant scene in its depiction of the age of sail giving way to the age of steam. Turner, of course, was most famous for his depiction of light, which is on full display in the magnificent sunset depicted in the painting.

The painting is one of Turner’s most famous and duly celebrated, but for me it will always remind me of my childhood home.

Joseph Mallord William Turner The Fighting Temeraire 1839 Oil on canvas, 90.7 x 121.6 cm at the National Gallery in London

Joseph Mallord William Turner The Fighting Temeraire 1839 Oil on canvas, 90.7 x 121.6 cm Turner Bequest, 1856 NG524 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG524

The Hay Wain by John Constable

This bucolic painting by John Constable is one of the most famous British painting. It depicts the millpond at Flatford on the River Stour about about a mile from Constable’s birthplace at East Bergholt, Suffolk.

it really is quintessentially English–an idealized view of the countryside and a time long past. And look at the sky! Constable was a master of clouds.

John Constable, The Hay Wain, 1821, Oil on canvas, 130.2 x 185.4 cm, Presented by Henry Vaughan, 1886, NG1207, https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG1207

Impressionists and Post-Impressionists at the National Gallery

The rooms displaying paintings by the Impressionists and post-Impressionists are generally mobbed at the National Gallery. So many famous pieces are included! 

Stand in the middle of one of the rooms and rotate slowly. If you’re a fan of this era and style of art, you’ll likely recognize just about every piece in the room, from the iconic Sunflowers by van Gogh to the massive painting of The Bathers by Seurat and the sublime waterlilies by Monet.

I’d forgotten just how rich the National Gallery’s collection of French Impressionists is and spent my first few minutes in the rooms exclaiming (to myself), they have that? and that one? oh, my, and that one too? This is incredible!

I had to sit down a few times just to collect myself. I’ve picked out four of my favorites (but it was a tough choice).

Waterlilies by Monet

This luscious painting dominates one entire wall and is hard to get a full-on look at thanks to the throngs of like-minded visitors standing in front of it.

This piece is one that was not included in the collection of large waterlily paintings in Musėe de l’Orangerie in Paris (check out my round-up of Nine of the Best Small Museums in Paris for more about the Monets in the Orangerie).

The waterlily paintings in the Orangerie include details of trees and foliage that anchor the viewer and give them a sense of location. But this painting in the National Gallery is completely free-flowing.

You have no idea where in the pond you are; you’re immersed in a shimmering world of greens and pinks and purples. No photograph can do it justice; you need to stand in front of the real thing and just drink it in.

Claude Monet Water-Lilies after 1916 Oil on canvas, 200.7 x 426.7 cm at the National Gallery in London
Claude Monet Water-Lilies after 1916 Oil on canvas, 200.7 x 426.7 cm Bought, 1963 NG6343 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6343

Sunflowers by Vincent van Gogh

This cheerful painting of sunflowers exuberantly clumped together in a plain vase signed by “Vincent” is probably the most famous of van Gogh’s works. It appears on a dizzying array of merchandise in the gift shop, from mugs to cards to t-shirts to umbrellas.

Why is this painting so famous? I think because it looks like sunshine on canvas. The varying shades of yellow and gold that van Gogh uses perfectly capture the feeling of a hot day in late summer when some sunflowers are still in bloom, others have just passed their peak and are starting to wilt, and still others have lost their petals completely.

This version of Sunflowers is one of five, the other four being on display in art museums around the world including the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam (always worth a visit!).

Apparently, van Gogh made the paintings to decorate his house in Arles in preparation for a visit from fellow artist Paul Gauguin.

Vincent van Gogh Sunflowers 1888 Oil on canvas, 92.1 x 73 cm  at the National gallery in London
Vincent van Gogh Sunflowers 1888 Oil on canvas, 92.1 x 73 cm Bought, Courtauld Fund, 1924 NG3863 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG3863

Bathers at Asnières by Georges Seurat

The painting depicts regular people enjoying a day off on the banks of the Seine, the factories they work in visible in the distance, their focus on the feel of warm grass and cool water.

It’s a snapshot in time. Each person is immersed in his own thoughts; each is alone, the exhaustion of a week at work still heavy on their shoulders even on their day off.

This massive painting is famous for its use of pointillism and was Seurat’s first major composition. He painted it at the age of 24 to make his mark at the official Salon in the spring of 1884. Unfortunately, the painting was rejected!

Georges Seurat Bathers at Asnières 1884 Oil on canvas, 201 × 300 cm at the National Gallery in London
Georges Seurat Bathers at Asnières 1884 Oil on canvas, 201 × 300 cm Bought, Courtauld Fund, 1924 NG3908 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG3908

Surprised! by Rousseau

This painting by Rousseau was new to me, and I just loved it!

Look at the expression on the tiger’s face! Has he been frightened by the flashes of lightning and the sudden wind blowing the jungle foliage all over the place? Who knows? But it’s such a wonderfully lush moment.

Surprised! was the first of about 20 jungle paintings that Rousseau produced. His jungles are entirely imaginary; Rousseau never left France.

He was an amateur artist who faced a fair bit of ridicule from the art establishment, but now Rousseau is considered a pioneer of “naïve art.”

Henri Rousseau Surprised! 1891 Oil on canvas, 129.8 x 161.9 cm at the  National Gallery in London
Henri Rousseau Surprised! 1891 Oil on canvas, 129.8 x 161.9 cm Bought, with the aid of a substantial donation from the Hon. Walter H. Annenberg, 1972 NG6421 https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/NG6421

Visiting the National Gallery

The National Gallery is open daily from 10 am to 6 pm and on Fridays until 9 pm. It’s located on Trafalgar Square in central London and entry is free, although donations are welcomed.

To get to the National Gallery, hop on the tube and get off at either Charing Cross or Leicester Square.

Eating at the National Gallery

The eateries at the National Gallery include. Ochre is an upscale cocktail bar open for lunch through dinner where you can also partake of the Ochre Afternoon Tea (served daily from 3 to 4:30 pm). For a quick bite, check out Muriel’s Kitchen, a self-serve café offering a casual menu.

Shopping at the National Gallery

You’ll find two shops full of all the postcards, art souvenirs, and high quality prints you could want. Every purchase made at the gift shop raises money to maintain the National Gallery.

Tours of the National Gallery

Every so often, I spring for a guided tour of an art museum and I’m never disappointed. Here’s a guided National Gallery highlights tour that includes afternoon tea (how very British!).

Staying in London

Although London is not very budget-friendly, I’ve usually managed to find good places to stay right in the center of the action.

On my latest trip to London, I stayed at the Park Plaza Victoria London Hotel, a well-located and excellent deal for a modern, four-star hotel in the heart of London.

The Wilde ApartHotel just off the Strand is within walking distance of the National Gallery and also most of the West End theaters.

Conclusion

Have you visited the National Gallery? What are some of your favorites? Share in the Comments below. Want more posts about art museums? Here are some posts about great art museums in Europe that I’ve visited and recommend:

Exhibit at MONA: an ancient Egyptian sarcophagus adorned with intricate hieroglyphics and illustrations of deities, displayed in a dark exhibit space. A brightly lit ornate shrine is visible in the background.

Why Visit the Museum of Old and New Art in Hobart, Tasmania

Written by Linda Moore for Artsy Traveler

Overview

If you’ve made the trek to Hobart, Tasmania, put a visit to the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA) at the top of your list of things to do.

Despite its remote location, MONA is a world-renowned art destination—and a must-visit for the artsy traveler.

As the name of the museum suggests, you’ll discover galleries full of an eclectic variety of art from ancient Egypt to the 21st century.

In this post, find out about the origins of MONA and how you get there, along with guest poster Linda Moore’s personal recommendations about what to see.

What is MONA?

The creation of professional gambler turned art collector David Walsh, MONA will appeal to art lovers interested in experiencing a stunning and occasionally subversive collection of old and new art coupled with impressive architecture.

Walsh, a controversial figure with an impressive bank account, built Australia’s largest privately owned museum and art gallery for his own amusement and to provide a landing place for art that interests him. Almost everything about MONA is different from other museums.

Check out the MONA website and read the content. Even ordinary information such as how to visit MONA is presented with a quirky twist.

MONA’s Collection

The essence of MONA is not its eccentricities, but its private collection of artwork, and Walsh does not disappoint. MONA displays pieces from a full range of the history of art.

This eclectic art museum includes antiquities from ancient Egypt, along with pieces from the European Renaissance, and Pacific Islanders.

You’ll find an Egyptian sarcophagus and Asian scrolls along with modern art such as Georgia O’Keefe’s flowers and provocative contemporary art pieces such as Matthew Barney’s genitalia.

Arriving at MONA

If possible, arrange to arrive at the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA) by water.

The 25-minute ferry ride from Hobart in Tasmania brings into dramatic focus a clifftop complex that rivals any of the major museums of the world.

You can choose two options for your ride–Standard or Posh Pit. The website describe the Posh Pit option as:

Escape the riff-raff in the ferry’s private lounge, bar and deck. Includes complimentary bevvies, tiny food and inflated egos.

See what I mean about the museum’s unique approach to organizing the visitor experience?

Climbing to the Museum

To reach the museum entrance from the ferry dock, you’ll need to climb 99 steps. There is also access via tunnel for people with mobility issues. The website advises you to inform staff before you arrive if you quaify.

If you wish to avoid the ferry ride, you can travel to the museum by car. Located on the Berriedale peninsula, MONA is a 20-minute drive from Hobart.

MONA Exterior: A wide view of the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA) in Tasmania, showcasing its geometric and industrial architecture with rust-colored and gray panels, nestled in a natural landscape by the water.
Photo by Barrylb, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Why I Love MONA

MONA is an art gallery that draws me and others who travel the world to see art because we want to discover artists we don’t know about–artists whose original ideas are not derivative of the major art scenes in New York or Berlin.

Similar to traveling to the Venice Biennale or Documenta, a trip to MONA exposes you to new art and new ideas.

For example, Azerbaijani artist Faig Ahmed’s woven fiber pieces use an ancient art form in a contemporary way. His work appeared in the Venice Biennale and later was added to a show at MoMA in New York.

But how many of us know about art in Azerbaijan?

Rug at MONA: A red and intricately patterned carpet hangs on a black wall, flowing down and melting into colorful, wavy strands that pool onto the floor, creating a surreal and striking visual.
Azerbaijani woven fibre piece

David Walsh’s collection spans the globe and his curators are always on the hunt for fresh ideas from artists whose works may never be seen by curators from big international institutions.

MONA’s Installations

The site-specific installations at MONA are the showstoppers.

Examples include Yayoi Kusama’s room with dizzy dots and the two-story waterfall by German artist Julius Popp that spills text generated by 128 computer-controlled nozzles streaming words from real Google searches.

Yayoi Kusama Installation at MONA: A room filled with large, vibrant yellow spheres covered in black polka dots, reflected infinitely in mirrored walls. A person stands in the foreground, holding a bag and observing the immersive artwork.
Yayoi Kusama Installation

Generous budgets and plenty of space provide artists with creative opportunities that may not be possible in large city museums.  

For example, an $18 million tunnel completed in 2019 houses works by Chinese artist Ai Weiwei, who spent time in prison for his art.

The Divine Comedy, a light installation of hell, purgatory, and paradise by one of my favorites, Chilean-born artist Alfredo Jaar

What Else to See a MONA

MONA is more than just art galleries. The complex includes restaurants, bars, a winery, a gift shop and even accommodations.

Dining and Staying at MONA

There are several dining options at MONA. You can enjoy lunch at the Source Restaurant or Faro Bar & Restaurant.

If you want to stay, there are accommodation pavilions, described as “super flash luxury dens on the River Derwent” that are each named after an influential Australian artist or architect.

MONA Gift Shop

The MONA Gift Shop is eclectic as the collection. If you’re not able to go to MONA in person, browse the gift shop online.

Moorilla Winery

MONA is also home to one of Tasmania’s oldest vineyards. In the museum’s bars and restaurants, you can sample small-batch, premium Moorilla wines  made from fruit grown on the Moorilla estate. 

You can also visit the cellar and partake of wine tastings.

When to Visit MONA

Schedule at least a day-long visit so you can view the James Turrell light pieces like Pharos (named after the lighthouse in Alexandria) inside a tunnel and then remain until sunset to sit outside under Turrell’s Amarna project that glows and changes as the sunlight in the Southern hemisphere disappears.

Stunning!

Arnama by James Tyrrell at MONA: A square aperture in the ceiling, framed with vibrant purple lighting, revealing the pale blue sky above. The scene is surrounded by the silhouettes of trees, creating a serene and modern visual.
Amarna changing with the setting sun

Shore lights twinkle as you travel back to Hobart on the night ferry and the peaceful channel creates space to ponder the impressive art experiences you’ve enjoyed at MONA.

Tours & Tickets in Hobart

Here are some other options for things to do in Hobart.

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This Tasmanian Devil tour looks particularly interesting!

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Practical Information

MONA is only open Friday to Sunday, so temporary exhibitions are displayed for five to six months. You must purchase your ticket in advance and ensure you have reservations for everything you want to see.

Conclusion

Have you visited MONA and Hobart? What did you think? Share your comments and suggestions with other Artsy Travelers!

Guest poster and novelist Linda Moore takes artsy travelers on a journey down under to remote Tasmania to experience the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA). Find out more about Linda Moore and her novels, including Attribution set in Spain and Five Days in Bogota, a contemporary, art-based thriller set in Colombia.

Here are some other contributions from guest posters to help you with your travel planning:

Have you traveled to MONA? Share your suggestions and experience in the comments below.

Bar at the Folies Bergeres by Manet

Best of the Courtauld Gallery in London: A Treasure Trove for the Artsy Traveler

I recently visited the Courtauld Gallery within hours of landing at Heathrow after flying to London from Vancouver. After three years away from Europe, I was itching to see great art, and the Courtauld Gallery turned out to be the perfect place to ease my way back into artsy traveling.

It’s small, it’s centrally located, and its collection is exquisite.

The highlights of the Courtauld Gallery are the truly impressive Impressionist collection and the medieval collection.

Pinterest graphic showing a painting of workers in a field by Gauguin. The text reads "Courtauld Gallery: An Artsy Treasure Trove"

The Courtauld Gallery is part of the renowned Courtauld Institute of Art. This research-led higher education institution is the University of London’s largest community of art historians, conservators and curators. The gallery recently reopened after being closed for three years. The new and improved version is little short of spectacular.

Like the vast majority of visitors, I headed first to the top floor to view the Impressionist collection and the special exhibition of paintings by Edvard Munch (see my review of this exhibition). The room containing the Impressionist collection attracts the most visitors and can get a bit crowded.

I walked into the large room containing a delicious collection of Impressionists and immediately had to sit down to prevent myself from falling down and embarrassing myself. What I really wanted to do is laugh out loud and twirl myself past masterpiece after masterpiece, giddy with the beauty surrounding me.

When, finally, I collected myself, I began pacing slowly and reverently past gorgeous painting after gorgeous painting by all the biggies—Monet, Cézanne, Gauguin, Renoir, and on and on.

Here are just a few of the highlights of the Impressionist collection.

Tall Trees at the Jas de Bouffan by Paul Cézanne

Image of the painting entitled "all Trees at the Jas de Bouffan" showing a row of trees in Provence by Paul Cezanne included in the Impressionist collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
“Tall Trees at the Jas de Bouffan” by Paul Cezanne

Cézanne painted many views of the countryside surrounding Jas de Bouffan, a rural estate outside Aix-en-Provence owned by Cézanne’s father. Having visited the area, I can attest that Cézanne captures the shimmering quality of the light and the particularly vivid shades of green unique to Provence. My favorite Cézannes are his paintings of the Provence landscapes and this one is a keeper for sure!

Young Woman Powdering Herself by Georges Seurat

Painting called "Young Woman Powdering Herself" by Goerges Seurat showing a woman wearing a red corset and holding a powder puff. The style is pointillist and the piece is included in the Impressionist collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
“Young Woman Powdering Herself” by Georges Seurat

I’ve long been a fan of Georges Seurat who created the “pointillist” style of painting. He followed newly formulated optical theories by placing colors from opposite sides of the color wheel–orange and blue; pink and green–next to each other to create contrast. Seurat died at age 31 but he left behind some stunning works, this one being his only major portrait.

Self Portrait with Bandaged Ear by Vincent van Gogh

"Self-Portrait with Bandaged Ear" by Vincent van Gogh" included in the Impressionist collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
“Self-Portrait with Bandaged Ear” by Vincent van Gogh

I couldn’t believe the Courtauld had this piece! It’s one of my favorite van Goghs. I love how he contrasts the various colors–blue hat, green coat, orange face–and also includes the image of one of the Japanese prints he collected. Van Gogh was heavily influenced by Japanese printmaking. He painted this piece in 1889, a week after leaving hospital following the famous incident when he cut off a portion of his left ear after a heated argument with Paul Gauguin. Even injured, van Gogh was determined to keep painting.

The Haystacks by Paul Gauguin

The Haystacks by Paul Gauguin included in the Impressionist collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
The Haystacks by Paul Gauguin

And speaking of Gauguin, I was thrilled to see this piece which he painted while he was living in Brittany. Gregg Simpson (husband and painter) is currently working on the Pont Aven Suite, a series inspired by Gauguin’s Brittany paintings, so Gauguin has been a regular topic of a conversation in our house. I love how Gauguin simplifies and flattens forms and colors. This piece has so much movement–the women raking hay above and the man driving the oxen below.

A Bar at the Folies-Bergère by Edouard Manet

The Bar at the Folies Bergeres by Edoaurd Manet included in the Impressionist collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
A Bar at the Folies-Bergères by Edouard Manet

Fabulous as all the pieces in the Impressionist collection are, the best of all is my old friend A Bar at the Folies-Bergères by Manet. What a painting!

The young barmaid (the model’s name was Suzon) looks out at the viewer, her expression both bored and vulnerable at the same time. According to the descriptive text next to the piece, “Manet created a complex and absorbing compostion that is considered one of the iconic paintings of modern life.” That is certainly true!

Suzon is every person in the world working in a dead-end job they hate and yet obliged to pretend they enjoy for the sake of the customers.

After thoroughly exploring the top floor, I began my descent to the other two floors to explore the rest of the Courtauld Gallery’s collection. I was in for a treat as it turned out.

One of my favorite eras for painting is the middle ages, particularly the first half of the 14th century when artists were not worried about perspective and realism. I love the use of gold, the pastel shades of the egg tempera paint the artists used, and the lego-like way in which they depicted medieval buildings.

Well, the Courtauld delivered! To my delight, it houses a lovely medieval collection that includes such notables as Lorenzetti and Duccio—two hometown boys from Siena, my fave Italian city (and one of the settings for The Towers of Tuscany).

As is often the case in art museums, the medieval rooms were pretty much empty so I drifted from painting to painting and admired to my heart’s content.

A highlight is a series of small panels painted by Fra Angelico (1417-1455) that depicts six female saints. Each face is incredibly expressive and compelling. I wonder who Fra Angelico used as models.

Medieval gold panel that includes a portrait of a female saint dressed in the black habit of a nun created by Fra Angelico included in the Medieval collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
Medieval gold panel that includes a portrait of a female saint dressed in a blue robe trimmed with gold and created by Fra Angelico included in the Medieval collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
Medieval gold panel that includes a portrait of a female saint dressed in a red robe and with long hair, and created by Fra Angelico included in the Medieval collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
Medieval gold panel that includes a portrait of a female saint dressed in a pink cloak and created by Fra Angelico included in the Medieval collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
Medieval gold panel that includes a portrait of a female saint wearing a red gown trimmed with gold and a green cape, and created by Fra Angelico included in the Medieval collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
Medieval gold panel that includes a portrait of a female saint wearing a simple blue gown and created by Fra Angelico included in the Medieval collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.

After thoroughly exploring and enjoying the large collection of medieval art, I toured the rest of the collection. There’s a fair number of works from the 16th to the 19th centuries, including works by Rembrandt, Gainsborough, Reynolds, and Rubens.

A big selling point of the Courtauld is its compact size and that each piece in the colleciton is stellar. I don’t think I’ve ever visited an art museum where the quality of all the pieces is so uniformly high.

After my visit, I got chatting with the young man in the gift shop. He enthusiastically agreed that the Courtauld’s collection is first-rate and also kindly listened to me rattle on about how I first visited the Courtauld with my mom back in 1970 (likely a good forty years befor he was born!)

Here are two more of my favorites at the Courtauld Gallery.

Adam and Eve by Cranach the Elder included in the collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
“Adam and Eve” by Cranach the Elder
Landscape with the Flight into Egypt painting by Pieter Bruegel the Elder and ncluded in the collection at the Courtauld Gallery in London.
“Landscape with the Flight Into Egypt” by Pieter Bruegel the Elder

The Courtauld Gallery is open Monday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00. Book your ticket in advance on the website to avoid line-ups and also to make sure you get in! Check the website also for special exhibitions. The Munch exhibition I saw was definitely worth the extra price.

Where to Stay in London

Stay as close to the center of London as you can afford. You’ll be able to walk a lot more places that you’ll want to see and you’ll feel like you’re where the action is!

Here are three recommendations:

  • Park Plaza Victoria London Hotel located right across the street from Victoria Station is a good deal for a modern, four-star hotel in the heart of London.
  • Wilde ApartHotel just off the Strand is an excellent choice and couldn’t be more central for the West End Theaters. It’s also within easy walking distance of the Courtauld Gallery.
  • The ParkCity in Kensington is a bit farther off the beaten track but very close to some of my favorite museums, including the Victoria & Albert.

London Tours & Tickets

Here are some options for touring London and buying tickets for interesting museums such as the Design Museum and other attractions.

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London Walking Tours

GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of London!

Conclusion

As my first visit to a world-class art museum in three years, the Courtauld was the perfect choice. It gently eased me back into artsy traveling, doling out artsy hits like small bites of gourmet chocolates—each one more flavorful than the last and yet all equally fabulous.

Have you visited the Courtauld? Which piece was your favorite? Share your experience in the Comments section below.

Here are some more posts about favorite art museums in Europe:

The Belvedere Palace in Vienna, with its ornate Baroque architecture and green domed roofs, reflecting in a large pond. A white statue of nymphs and sea creatures stands in the center of the water.

20 Best Museums in Vienna: Tips, Tickets, Tours

If you love museums, then Vienna is your town!

You can easily fill several days visiting Vienna’s world-class museums.

You’ll find museums that cater to just about every artsy interest from painting to music to theater and much more.

In this post, I describe what I consider 20 of the best museums and art museums in Vienna for artsy travelers to visit while touring Vienna, one of my favorite European cultural capitals. 

A collage featuring Vienna’s museums, including the Kunsthistorisches Museum dome, the modernist Mumok building, the Belvedere Palace with a pond, and a colorful brick wall with glass bottles embedded in concrete. Bold white text reads "Best Vienna Museum Experiences" with the website "artsytraveler.com."

Vienna Museum Highlights at a Glance


Map Showing the Locations of Top Museums in Vienna

Use the map below to get your bearings when touring Vienna. It’s a very walkable city with most of the museums clustered in the museum district.

This map was made with Wanderlog, for making itineraries on iOS and Android

Vienna PASS

Once you’ve chosen the museums you want to tour in Vienna, consider purchasing a Vienna PASS. The Vienna PASS offers free access to up to 90 museums and attractions in Vienna including sites such as Schönbrunn Palace, the Vienna Giant Ferris Wheel, and the Hofburg Palace.

Almost al the museums in this post are covered by the Vienna PASS.

You can purchase the Vienna PASS in various durations: 1-day, 2-day, 3-day, and 6-day options. Depending on how much you want to see in Vienna, the Vienna PASS can be an excellent bargain.

Another less expensive option is the Vienna Flexi PASS that allows you to customize your itinerary.

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Touring Museums in Vienna

So let’s dig into my suggestions for the 20 best museum experiences in Vienna. As you’ll quickly discover, Vienna really is one of Europe’s best destinations for museum lovers.

The only trouble is that you need to pace yourself. All those long, marble-floored corridors are hard on the knees. Take your time! It’s better to enjoy fewer museums and enjoy yourself than try to see them all and be too exhausted to take in a concert in the evening and enjoy a plate of wiener schnitzel.

Assume you’ll return!

And while Vienna has some of the best museums in the world, it’s also a wonderful place to just sit back and watch the world go by. There’s a reason that Vienna consistently ranks in the top ten of the world’s most livable cities.

#1: Kunsthistorisches Museum

Start at the Kunsthistorisches Museum (#1), Vienna’s answer to the Louvre and considered by many to be one of the best museums in all of Vienna (and the world!).

Located at Maria-Theresien-Platz in the Imperial Palace complex, this fabulous (and HUGE) museum exhibits the art collection of the Habsburg family. They were also known as the House of Austria and for several hundred years ruled a large chunk of Europe.

Kunsthistorisches Museum at a Glance

Why Visit: Habsburg art treasures, Bruegel masterpieces, and spectacular Renaissance architecture.
Best for Classic art lovers, history buffs, and anyone dazzled by Renaissance grandeur.
Typical Visit Time: ~3 hours
Tickets: Skip-the-Line Ticket
Included in Vienna Pass: ✅ Yes
Opening Hours: Tuesday–Sunday 10 am–6 pm; Closed Monday
Website: khm.at
Guided Tour:

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The exterior of the Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna, a grand building with domes, statues, and a manicured garden with a fountain in the foreground. This museum is one of the top museums to visit in Vienna.
Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna

The Kunsthistorisches Museum includes several collections. If you’re short on time, I recommend starting with the Picture Gallery to see masterpieces by Bruegel, Arcimboldo and more, and then checking out the antiquities. If you’re a musician, you won’t want to miss the collection of historical musical instruments. I spent a lot of time there!

Egyptian and Near Eastern

You’ll find one of the world’s most important collections of Egyptian antiquities at the Kunsthistorisches Museum. Take a tour of the collection which includes more than 17,000 objects. I always enjoy a good Egyptian museum, and the collection here is first-rate.

Greek and Roman Antiquities

The collection spans 3,000 years. I’m particularly fond of the Greek vases decorated with scenes of Greek life.

Kunstkammer Wien: The Cradle of the Museum

This relatively new area of the museum (opened in 2013) contains over 2,200 fabulous artworks. The Habsburg emperors were busy collectors from the late Middle Ages to the Baroque Age. You’ll find sculptures, clocks, objets d’art, scientific instruments, automatons, and a lot more.

The list goes on. Have a good look. You won’t regret it.

The collection in the Picture Gallery is nirvana for the art lover. You’ll find pieces by Pieter Bruegel the Elder that you’ll probably recognize if you like 16th-century Dutch painting and if you’ve ever taken a European art history course. 

You’ll also find masterpieces by Caravaggio, Titian, Rubens, and one of my favorites, Arcimboldo, who really had a way with food.

We bought a jigsaw puzzle of one of the Arcimboldo paintings in the marvelous museum gift shop. I do like a good museum giftshop and the one at the Kunsthistorisches has a great selection.

Giuseppe Arcimboldo - Summer - Google Art Project
Giuseppe Arcimboldo, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Collection of Historical Musical Instruments

I write about the incredible collection of historical musical instruments in Music Lover’s Guide to Vienna. On my solo trip to Vienna, I spent a happy afternoon enjoying the rooms full of pianos and harpsichords and various other instruments. The collection of Renaissance and Baroque instruments is reputed to be the finest in the world.

I was in heaven, particularly because this area of the massive museum was virtually empty. If I’d been so inclined, I could have played one of the pianos, and probably no one would have been the wiser.

Needless to say, I didn’t try. The prospect of even a short stay in a Viennese prison did not appeal, even if it’s likely to be well maintained and serve wiener schnitzel and torte.

The Kunsthistorisches Museum also includes the Coin Collection, an Armory, and lots more, but you get the picture. The museum is worth a good chunk of your day. Alternatively, pace yourself and space your visit across a few days. It depends on your stamina because plenty of museums await you in Vienna’s MuseumsQuartier (MQ).


#2: Natural History Museum

The architectural mirror image of the Kunsthistorisches Museum is the Museum of Natural History ( Naturhistorisches Museum) (#2) opposite it.

I have a soft spot for natural history museums, and Vienna’s is excellent, easily on par with the Natural History Museums in London, New York, and Washington.

Natural History Museum at a Glance

Why Visit: Dinosaurs, meteorites, minerals, and fascinating scientific exhibits under a grand dome.
Best for: Families, science enthusiasts, and anyone fascinated by dinosaurs and the natural world.
Typical Visit Time: 1.5–2 hours
Tickets: Skip-the-Line Ticket
Included in Vienna Pass: ✅ Yes
Opening Hours: Wednesday–Monday 9 am–6:30 pm; Closed Tuesday
Website: nhm-wien.ac.at

The big draw is the squat statue of the wonderfully fecund Venus of Willendorf. She’s a clay figurine just 11.1 centimeters tall, reputed to have been made between 24,000 and 22,000 BCE, which is a long time ago on any calendar.

Although little is known about how or why she was made, you have to think her purpose had something to do with fertility.

I mean, seriously! Look at her!

Because she lacks defined facial features, some philosophers and archeologists view the Venus of Willendorf as representative of a universal mother.

Well, I certainly took to her. She’s displayed in a special, atmospherically lit case that will probably be surrounded by other museum-goers.

Figurine called the Venus of Willendorf on display at the Natural History Museum in Vienna.
Don Hitchcock, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creative
commons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0via Wikimedia Commons

Wait your turn and then spend a few minutes contemplating universal motherhood and also thinking about the people who made this exquisite figure.

How had they used her? Had she been cherished? I like to think so.

Animal Displays 

One of the museum’s many highlights being the massive second floor containing several high-ceilinged, ornate rooms stuffed to the ceiling with stuffed animals.

When we walked into the reptile room on our family trip, I had to sprint through it with my eyes closed.

Stuffed snakes in glass cages slithered every which way through the massive room. And I don’t mean the cute plush variety of stuffed snakes.

Oh no. I’m talking about very real, very menacing, very snakey snakes. Ugh!

Fortunately, the other rooms made up for the trauma of the reptile room. The Vienna Museum of Natural History gets top marks for taxidermy.


#3 Museums in the MuseumsQuartier (MQ)

Vienna’s MuseumsQuartier (MQ) (#3) in central Vienna is truly a remarkable cultural area. Housing over sixty cultural institutions, the MQ is one of the largest districts for contemporary art and culture in the world.

You’ll find museums and events devoted to art, architecture, music, fashion, theater, children’s culture, literature, dance, street art, photography, even gaming culture.

This is the place to be if you love the arts.

Highlights of the MQ directly related to visual art include viewing modern art at the Leopold Museum, MUMOK – the Museum of Modern Art, Kunsthalle Wien, and the remarkable Kunst Haus Wien–Vienna’s first ecological museum.

The MQ is always open and entry is free. Relax in the various courtyards and engage in some serious people watching.

The Meeting Place at the MuseumsQuartier (MQ) is one of the largest cultural quarters in the world. You’ll need another day to tour the MQ and also hang out in its public spaces.

The Museum Quarter in Vienna, bustling with people seated on modern red benches, with the Mumok building in the background.
Hanging out in the MuseumsQuartier (MQ) in Vienna

For more information about what’s on, including special events, check the MQ website and the websites for the individual museums. The range and breadth of cultural activities truly is breathtaking!

Here are four of the major art museums in the MQ.


#4: Leopold Museum

The Leopold Museum (#4) exhibits the world’s most important collection of paintings and works on paper by Egon Schiele.

Along with Gustav Klimt, Schiele is one of the best-known Austrian artists of the 20th century.

Painting of a woman in a striped dress by Austrian artist Egon Schiele on display at the Leopold Museum in Vienna, Austria, one of the 15 best museums in Vienna.
Egon Schiele, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Leopold Museum at a Glance

Why Visit: Egon Schiele, Gustav Klimt, and Viennese Modernism in a contemporary setting.
Best for: Modern art fans, Schiele and Klimt admirers, and lovers of Viennese Expressionism.
Typical Visit Time: 1–1.5 hours
Tickets: Fast-Track Ticket
Included in Vienna Pass: ✅ Yes
Opening Hours: Daily 10 am–6 pm; closed Tuesday
Website: leopoldmuseum.org


#5: MUMOK – Museum moderner Kunst Stiftung Ludwig Wien

MUMOK (#5) is the largest museum of modern and contemporary art in central Europe (and that’s saying something!).

You’ll find an amazing collection that features works of classical modernism (my favorite) by artists such as Picasso, Mondrian, and Magritte to mention only a few, along with pop art, Fluxus, minimal art, and concept art, as well as Vienna Actionism and contemporary art.

The exterior of the Mumok (Museum of Modern Art) in Vienna, a large gray modernist building with a curved facade and a broad staircase leading to the entrance.
MUMOK in the MuseumsQuartier (MQ) in Vienna

MUMOK at a Glance

Why Visit: Warhol, Picasso, Lichtenstein, and avant-garde exhibitions in a sleek, modern cube.
Best for: Contemporary art explorers, avant-garde enthusiasts, and design lovers.
Typical Visit Time: ~1 hour
Tickets: Entry Ticket
Included in Vienna Pass: ✅ Yes
Opening Hours: Daily 10 am–6 pm; Closed Monday
Website: mumok.at


#6: Kunsthalle Wien

The Kunsthalle Wien (#6) focuses on temporary exhibitions of contemporary art. I confess I’m not generally a fan of contemporary art, but if you are, check the website for rotating shows focused on social and political themes, experimental installations, and young contemporary voices.

Kunsthalle Wien at a Glance

Why Visit: Vienna’s leading space for cutting-edge contemporary art, performance, and thought-provoking exhibitions from global and Austrian artists.
Best for: Fans of cutting-edge exhibitions, conceptual art, and bold social commentary.
Typical Visit Time: 45–60 minutes per exhibition
Tickets: Entry Ticket
Included in Vienna Pass: ✅ Yes
Opening Hours: Tuesday–Sunday 11 am–7 pm; Closed Monday
Website: kunsthallewien.at


#7: Kunst Haus Wien

Vienna’s first ecological museum, the Kunst Haus Wien (#7), features contemporary art with a focus on photography. You have to check out the building–it’s remarkable with colorful tiles, uneven floors, and irregular structures.

The museum also houses the Museum Hundertwasser which displays the largest permanent collection of works by Friedensreich Hundertwasser who designed the building for the Kunst Haus Wien and is also one of Austria’s most famous artists and visionaries.

Kunst Haus Wien at a Glance

Why Visit: Dedicated to visionary Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser, showcasing his vibrant paintings, eco-architecture, and design philosophy.
Best for: Architecture lovers, photography fans, and anyone who appreciates eco-friendly, colorful creativity.
Typical Visit Time: 1–1.5 hours
Included in Vienna Pass: ✅ Yes
Opening Hours: Daily 10 am–6 pm
Website: kunsthauswien.com
Tickets:

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#8: Belvedere Palace

You can’t visit Vienna and not visit the Belvedere Palace (#8)! It’s the home of the world’s largest collection of Klimt’s paintings, including his masterpiece, The Kiss, and the iconic Judith I.

You’ll also find an excellent 19th-century collection that includes work by Monet and van Gogh.

 Called The Kiss, this is a famous painting by Gustav Klimt depicting a couple embracing, covered in golden robes, surrounded by a field of colorful flowers. You can see this painting when you visit the Belvedere in Vienna.
Gustav Klimt, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The baroque Belvedere Palace itself is worth visiting to see its magnificent ornamental gardens and the stunning views of Vienna.

Belvedere Palace at a Glance

Why Visit: Home of Klimt’s The Kiss, Baroque halls, sculptures, and fountains.
Best for: Klimt devotees, romantic souls, and travelers seeking Vienna’s most iconic art experience.
Typical Visit Time: 1.5–2 hours
Tickets: Timed-Entry Ticket
Included in Vienna Pass: ✅ Upper Belvedere
Opening Hours: Daily 10 am–6 pm
Website: belvedere.at
Guided Tour:

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#9: Albertina Museum

The Albertina Museum (#9) is located not far from the Vienna Opera House, and contains the world’s most important graphic collections along with works of art by Monet, Renoir, Chagall, Miro, Magritte, Munch, Picasso, and more. 

You can also visit the Albertina – Modern a few blocks away, which is Vienna’s new museum of modern art.

Albertina Museum at a Glance

Why Visit: Monet to Picasso, graphic arts, photography, and rotating exhibitions.
Best for: Impressionist fans, photography lovers, and visitors looking for a refined art fix near the Opera House.
Typical Visit Time: 1–1.5 hours
Tickets: Skip-the-Line Ticket
Included in Vienna Pass: ✅ Yes
Opening Hours: Daily 10 am–6 pm (Wed & Fri until 9 pm)
Website: albertina.at


#10: Theater Museum Vienna

I always go out of my way to visit a museum dedicated to theater. My third novel, The Muse of Fire, is set in the theater.

The collection at the Theater Museum (#10) in Vienna includes over 1,000 stage models, 600 costumes, and a lot of props that bring the history of theater in Austria to life. So much to see!

Theater Museum at a Glance

Why Visit: A hidden gem inside the Lobkowitz Palace celebrating Vienna’s rich performing arts legacy — from Mozart’s Don Giovanni to modern stage design.
Best for: Theater lovers, performing arts students, and travelers intrigued by Vienna’s dramatic heritage.
Tickets: Entry Ticket
Included in Vienna Pass: ✅ Yes
Opening Hours: Wednesday–Monday 10 am–6 pm; Closed Tuesday
Website: theatermuseum.at


#11: Jewish Museum of the City of Vienna

Billed as the world’s first Jewish Museum, the Jewish Museum Vienna is the place to learn about Vienna’s Jewish life from the Middle Ages to the present (#11).

The permanent collection showcasing the Jewish community in medieval Vienna is particularly compelling. For two hundred years beginning in the thirteenth century, Vienna was a center of Jewish knowledge and learning. In 1420/21, the members of this first Jewish community were expelled and murdered by order of Duke Albert V.

The recent discovery of the remains of the destroyed medieval synagogue drew attention to Vienna’s hitherto largely ignored medieval history. There are two locations: the main museum on Dorotheergasse with historical exhibits and artifacts, and the Judenplatz site featuring medieval foundations of Vienna’s synagogue and a Holocaust memorial.

Jewish Museum at a Glance

Why Visit: One of Europe’s most engaging Jewish history museums, telling the story of Vienna’s Jewish community: its vibrant cultural life, tragedy, and renewal.
Best for: History seekers, cultural travelers, and anyone interested in Jewish life and heritage in Vienna.
Typical Visit Time: 1–1.5 hours (allow extra if visiting both locations)
Tickets: Entry Ticket (valid for both sites)
Included in Vienna Pass: ✅ Yes
Opening Hours: Daily 10 am–6 pm (Closed Saturday and Jewish holidays)
Website: jmw.at


#12: MAK – Museum of Applied Arts

The MAK Museum (#12) is a “museum for arts and the everyday world.” Its extensive collection focuses on the applied arts and the interface of design, architecture, and contemporary arts.

MAK showcases a special exhibition called « Vienna 1900 » with some of the most illustrious art nouveau designers.

MAK’s permanent   collection includes one of the world’s finest collection of lace and glassware, particularly Venetian glass (I’m a sucker for Venetian glass). You’ll also find a collection of textiles and carpets, and lots more.

MAK Museum at a Glance

Why Visit: A gorgeous blend of design, craftsmanship, and innovation — showcasing everything from Baroque furniture and Art Nouveau glass to contemporary design and digital art.
Best for: Design aficionados, architecture admirers, and lovers of Art Nouveau and craftsmanship.
Typical Visit Time: 1–1.5 hours
Tickets: Entry Ticket
Included in Vienna Pass: ✅ Yes
Opening Hours: Tuesday–Sunday 10 am–6 pm; Tuesday extended until 9 pm; Closed Monday
Website: mak.at


#13: Wien Museum Karlsplatz

I thoroughly enjoyed touring the Wien Museum with its displays showcasing the history and culture of Vienna over the centuries. The museum’s permanent exhibition is called “Vienna. My History” and provides the visitor with a chronological tour of the city — from the first settlement to the present day. 

When I was visiting Vienna to research A Woman of Note, I spent a long time in the Wien Museum getting a feel for what life was like in Vienna in the early 19th century.

I found the scale model of Vienna as it looked when it was still enclosed by a wall particularly interesting. In the 19th century, the wall was demolished and replaced with the Ring Road. 

A detailed scale model of Vienna, showcasing the city's historic architecture, winding streets, and bridges over a river. The model is housed in an octagonal glass case, highlighting intricate features such as buildings, city walls, and surrounding greenery. This model is a highlight of a visit to the Wien Museum in Vienna.

Wien Museum at a Glance

Why Visit: Brand-new galleries tell Vienna’s story — and it’s free!
Best for: Local history enthusiasts, urban culture fans, and travelers looking for a free, high-quality museum.
Typical Visit Time: 1–1.5 hours
Tickets: Free Entry
Included in Vienna Pass: ✅ Yes (Free)
Opening Hours: Tuesday–Sunday 10 am–6 pm
Website: wienmuseum.at


Music Museums in Vienna

Vienna is the City of Music and home to an impressive number of the world’s most famous composers–Beethoven, Mozart, Haydn, Schubert, Strauss, and Mahler.

And several more composers stopped by to perform, including Chopin, Liszt, Schumann (Robert and Clara), and Brahms.

#14: Beethoven Pasqualati House

A highlight of my solo trip to Vienna was visiting Pasqualati House (#13) where Beethoven lived and worked for a while. He changed apartments a lot, apparently. Here, he composed iconic works including parts of his Fifth Symphony and Für Elise.

Carol Cram stands in front of Pasqualati House where Beethoven once lived. It is an historic building with tall windows and red-and-white striped flags hanging above a plaque.
Me in front of Vienna’s Pasqualati House, one of the places where Beethoven lived

Pasqualati House at a Glance

Why Visit: A small but evocative museum dedicated to Ludwig van Beethoven
Best for: Classical music enthusiasts, Beethoven devotees, and those seeking an intimate composer experience.
Typical Visit Time: 30–45 minutes
Tickets: Entry Ticket
Guided Tour: Self-guided visit with staff insights available
Included in Vienna Pass: ✅ Yes
Opening Hours: Wednesday–Monday 10 am–1 pm and 2 pm–6 pm; Closed Tuesday
Website: wienmuseum.at

#15: The House of Music

Also known as the House of Sound (#14), this celebration of music–particularly classical music (my favorite)–is spine-tinglingly awesome! I could spend days here exploring five floors of first-rate, music-themed exhibits.

Try your hand at conducting the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra and find out it’s not as easy as it looks!

House of Music at a Glance

Why Visit: Interactive and playful introduction to Vienna’s musical legacy.
Best for: Music lovers, families, and anyone who enjoys interactive and playful exhibits.
Typical Visit Time: 1–1.5 hours
Tickets: Entry Ticket
Included in Vienna Pass: ✅ Yes
Opening Hours: Daily 10 am–10 pm
Website: hausdermusik.com


#16: Mozarthaus Museum

Mozart lived in several houses in the city during his short and tumultuous life. The only one that survives is the Mozarthaus Museum (#15) at Domgasse #5, where he lived from 1784 to 1787.

The museum sprawls over 1,000 square meters on six levels and is a place of pilgrimage for Mozart lovers. Highlights of the museum include original manuscripts, interactive exhibits, and period furnishings that bring Mozart’s daily life and music to life.

Mozarthaus Museum at a Glance

Why Visit: The only surviving Vienna residence of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, where he composed The Marriage of Figaro and other masterpieces.
Best for: Mozart fans, classical music lovers, and travelers drawn to the composer’s everyday world.
Typical Visit Time: 1–1.5 hours
Included in Vienna Pass: ✅ Yes
Opening Hours: Daily 10 am–6 pm
Website: mozarthausvienna.at
Tickets:

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For more information about these and other top music sites to visit in Vienna, read Music Lover’s Guide to Vienna.


#17 Imperial Treasury (Hofburg)

The Imperial Treasury (Kaiserliche Schatzkammer) (#17) exhibits one of Europe’s most dazzling collections of royal regalia and sacred relics. You’ll see jewel-encrusted crowns, lavish robes, the Imperial Crown of the Holy Roman Empire, and the Austrian Imperial Crown. This quietly atmospheric and beautifully curated collection is a must for anyone interested in history, art, and the grandeur of imperial Vienna.

Imperial Treasury at a Glance

Why Visit: Habsburg crowns, imperial jewels, and treasures of the Holy Roman Empire.
Best for: Royal history lovers, jewelry enthusiasts, and travelers fascinated by the Habsburg legacy.
Typical Visit Time: ~1 hour
Tickets: Skip-the-Line Ticket
Included in Vienna Pass: ✅ Yes
Opening Hours: Daily 9 am–5:30 pm
Website: khm.at/visit/imperial-treasury


#18 Heidi Horten Collection

Opened in 2022, the Heidi Horten Collection is one of Vienna’s newest and most elegant museums showcasing the late philanthropist Heidi Horten’s private collection of 20th- and 21st-century art. Check out works by Warhol, Bacon, Basquiat, and Hirst.

Heidi Horten Collection at a Glance

Why Visit: A stunning new museum featuring modern and contemporary masterpieces from a world-class private collection.
Best for: Contemporary art lovers, collectors, and travelers who appreciate sleek, private art spaces.
Typical Visit Time: 1 hour
Tickets: Timed-Entry Ticket
Included in Vienna Pass: ❌ No
Opening Hours: Thursday–Sunday 10 am–6 pm
Website: hortencollection.com


#19 Weltmuseum Wien

Located within the Hofburg Palace complex, this museum presents one of Europe’s most important ethnographic collections. The galleries take you from Aztec featherwork to African masks and Asian textiles, all presented in beautifully curated displays. It’s visually stunning.

Weltmuseum Wien at a Glance

Why Visit: Fascinating ethnographic treasures and cultural artifacts from around the globe, displayed in a grand imperial setting.
Best for: Cultural travelers, anthropology enthusiasts, and anyone curious about world art and history.
Typical Visit Time: 1–1.5 hours
Tickets: Entry Ticket
Included in Vienna Pass: ✅ Yes
Opening Hours: Wednesday–Monday 10 am–6 pm; Closed Tuesday
Website: weltmuseumwien.at


#20 Austrian National Library – State Hall

If you’re looking to check out some pure Baroque splendor, visit the Austrian National Library’s State Hal to see one of Europe’s most breathtaking interiors. Built in the early 18th century for Emperor Charles VI, the hall houses over 200,000 leather-bound volumes beneath a frescoed dome and marble statues of Habsburg emperors. Even if you’re not a bibliophile, this library is worth the visit—it’s a work of art in itself.

Austrian National Library at a Glance

Why Visit: A jaw-dropping Baroque library filled with rare books, statues, and ceiling frescoes in the heart of the Hofburg.
Best for: Architecture lovers, bookworms, and anyone seeking one of Vienna’s most photogenic interiors.
Typical Visit Time: 45 minutes–1 hour
Tickets: Entry Ticket
Included in Vienna Pass: ✅ Yes
Opening Hours: Tuesday–Sunday 10 am–6 pm; Closed Monday
Website: onb.ac.at


Frequently Asked Questions about Vienna’s Museums

Which museums are included in the Vienna Pass?

Most of the big names, including the Kunsthistorisches Museum, Belvedere, Albertina, Leopold, and MUMOK, are covered. You’ll skip ticket lines and can save €30–50 in a full day of sightseeing.

Are any museums in Vienna free?

Yes! The newly reopened Wien Museum offers free admission year-round. Many other museums have free evenings or the first Sunday of the month; check each museum’s site before you go.

What’s the best Vienna museum if I only have two hours?

If you love classic art and grandeur, choose the Kunsthistorisches Museum. For a mix of modern art and atmosphere, head to the Leopold Museum in MuseumsQuartier.

Where can I see Gustav Klimt’s The Kiss?

At the Upper Belvedere Palace, in the Klimt Room—it’s the highlight of the museum’s permanent collection.

What’s the best museum for families or rainy days?

The Natural History Museum is hands-on and kid-approved. The Wien Museum and House of Music also work well on a drizzly afternoon.

Which museums are open on Monday?

Unlike many European cities, Vienna keeps a good Monday lineup—Belvedere, Albertina, Leopold, MUMOK, Wien Museum, and House of Music are open. Only the Kunsthistorisches Museum closes Mondays.

Is it worth buying skip-the-line tickets?

Absolutely during high season (May–September) and weekends. Kunsthistorisches Museum, Belvedere, and Albertina queues can easily add 30 minutes each.


Vienna Tours

Here are some GetYourGuide tours of Vienna.

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Vienna Walking Tours

GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Vienna!

Other recommended posts about Austria and Vienna:

Have you been to Vienna? What are your favorite museums? Let us know in the comments below.

Exterior of the Fondation Vaserely in Aix-en-Provence--a very modern building in black and white with large circles on the walls.

Seven Super Single-Artist Museums in Europe You Should Visit

One of the great joys of traveling in Europe as an Artsy Traveler is discovering amazing single-artist museums.

By single-artist museum, I mean a museum established to showcase the art of a specific artist, even if the museum also hosts exhibitions by other artists.

Europe is awash with great single-artist museums, many of which I’ve written about in other posts on Artsy Traveler, most notably Paris for Art Lovers: Nine of the Best Small Museums in Paris.

In this post, I recommend lesser known single-artist museums in Austria, Belgium, France, Germany, and Spain.

A Pinterest graphic with the text "7 Super Single Artists Museums in Europe You Should Visit" over a background that shows a detail from a painting of a dove by Magritte in the top half and the exterior of the Fondation Vaserely in Aix-en-Provence in the bottom half.

Map of Europe Showing Museum Locations

The number assigned to each museum in this post corresponds to the number on the map below. For example #1, the Ernst Fuchs Museum is in Vienna (#1 on the map below).

Map courtesy of Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

#1 Ernst Fuchs Museum in Vienna, Austria

Start in Austria with one of Europe’s weirdest single-artist museums!

If you’re in the mood for quirky and wonderful, then make your way to the Ernst Fuchs Museum in the Wien Hütteldorf, the 14th district of Vienna. You can drive there from central Vienna in about 25 minutes or hop on a bus.

Ernst Fuchs Museum near Vienna, Austria. Photo from the Ernst Fuchs Museum Website.
Exterior of the stunning Ernst Fuch Museum near Vienna.
Photo Credit: Ernst Fuchs Museum Website

Who is Ernst Fuchs?

Ernst Fuchs (1930-2015) was an extraordinarily prolific artist who created works infused with eroticism and myth. In the sixties, Fuchs became a style icon and designed architecture, furniture, tapestries, and jewelry. He was a founder of the Vienna School of Fantastic Realism and was celebrated internationally.

History of the Ernst Fuchs Museum

Fuchs’s work is displayed in the fabulously restored Wagner House, designed and built in 1888 as a summer house by the renowned Jugendstil architect Otto Wagner. The place is, quite simply, spectacular. Inspired by Palladio, Wagner designed the house in the style of a Roman villa.

Back in the day, the design attracted international attention. The press wrote: “A strange allure is evoked by this peculiar villa . . .Completely deviating from the usual appearance of similar buildings, the frontal view of the house that sits on the flank of a hill only shows a large open hall between two side wings.”

Fuchs bought the villa in 1972 when it was derelict and scheduled for demolition. In two years, he restored the house to its original architectural glory and for many years used the house as his private studio. In 1988, the centenary of the building of the original villa, the Ernst Fuchs Museum opened.

Work of Ernst Fuchs

Fuchs’s work combines the fantastic with elements of the visionary and spiritual, all infused with a healthy dollop of sixties psychedelic and a lot of naked bodies.

You’ll find eroticism everywhere. Even if you’re not a big fan of the work, you will appreciate its complexity and awesome technique. You come away with a new appreciation for the heights made possible by the human imagination.

Although I wasn’t hugely taken by the overly florid and fantastical artworks, I loved the unique architecture, whimsical design elements, gorgeous mosaics, and above all, stunning stained-glass windows.

Images of Ernst Fuchs Museum

I highly recommend a visit to this unique museum that also includes beautifully landscaped gardens. Here are photographs of some of the rooms in the Ernst Fuchs Museum. Source: Ernst Fuchs official website.

Adolf Boehm Salon in the Ernst Fuchs Museum
Adolf Boehm Salon at the Ernst Fuchs Museum
Grand Salon at the Ernst Fuchs Museum
Grand Salon at the Ernst Fuchs Museum
Roman Bath at the Ernst Fuchs Museum
Roman Bath at the Ernst Fuchs Museum

Explore Ernst Fuchs Museum in 3D

This fantastic website allows you to walk through the museum and use your mouse to zoom in on every painting and design element. It’s one of the best virtual tours I’ve come across.

Visitor Information

The Ernst Fuchs Museum is located at Hüttelbergstraße 26, 1140 Wien and is from from Tuesday through Sunday from 10 am to 4 pm. Tickets cost €11 for adults and €6 for students and seniors or €8 with the Wiencard. For more information, see the Ernst Fuchs Museum website.

Where to Stay in Vienna

If your budget allows (and Vienna is not an inexpensive city), stay as close to the center as you can afford. Here are some hotels in the center of Vienna with +9 ratings on booking.com that offer good value:

#2: Musée Toulouse-Lautrec in Albi, France

Located in the charming town of Albi in southwest France, the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec is a total treat. If you’re in the area, put it on your list and leave yourself lots of time to tour the extensive collections.

Who is Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec?

Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec (1864-1901) was a leading French artist famous for capturing the personalities of his subjects in loose, free-flowing lines. Born into a wealthy family in Albi, Toulouse-Lautrec’s interest in art flourished following accidents to his legs in his childhood that incapacitated him and resulted in permanent damage.

In the mid-1880s in Paris, Toulouse-Lautrec began his lifelong association with the bohemian life of the cafés, cabarets, entertainers, and artists in Montmartre.

Henri Toulouse-Lautrec
Source: Wikipedia

History of the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec

The Musée Toulouse-Lautrec is housed in the Bishop’s Palace (Palais de la Berbie) next door to Albi Cathedral (also worth a visit). The original palace was built in the 13th-century as a fortress to house the bishops of Albi. The original medieval architecture has been maintained with high, thick walls, and a central courtyard.

Palais de la Berbie in Albi, France (Albi Cathedral to the left)
Palais de la Berbie in Albi, France (Albi Cathedral to the left)

From the Renaissance to the 18th century, the fortress was transformed into a pleasure palace that included sumptuous state rooms and landscaped formal gardens which you can still visit today.

Overlooking the gardens at the Palais de la Berbie that houses the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec in Albi, France
Overlooking the gardens at the Palais de la Berbie that houses the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec in Albi, France

When we visited the museum soon after it opened in the morning, we practically had the place to ourselves.

And it’s huge! Room after room feature the world’s largest public collection of Lautrec’s paintings, lithographs, drawings, and posters. The collection is laid out in chronological order, starting with Toulouse-Lautrec’s early work and leading to the massive posters for which he is most famous.

In addition to exhibiting Toulouse-Lautrec’s work, the museum includes a large collection of art from the early 20th century. You’ll also view a fine collection of art from earlier periods, displayed in the sumptuously restored palace rooms.

A visit to the museum includes access to the palace’s classical gardens and panoramic views over the Tarn River.

View over the Tarne River in Albi, France
View over the Tarn River in Albi, France

Work of Toulouse-Lautrec

I was fascinated with the looseness of Toulouse-Lautrec’s work. He uses freely handled lines and colors to convey the idea of movement and to infuse his subjects with personality. You can imagine meeting the same people on the streets of Paris today.

Here are two of the works you’ll see in the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec. Both pictures are taken from the website of the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec.

Painting called L'anglaise du star au havre" by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec
“L’anglaise du star au havre” (1899) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec
Painting called "Femme qui tire son bras" by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec
“Femme qui tire son bras” (1894) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec

You’ll likely recognize several of the posters that were used to advertise the Moulin Rouge and other popular entertainment venues in late-19th-century Paris.

Moulin Rouge: La Goulue (1981) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec Photo: Wikipedia
Moulin Rouge: La Goulue (1981) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec Photo: Wikipedia
Ambassadeurs – Aristide Bruant (1892) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec Photo: Wikipedia
Ambassadeurs – Aristide Bruant (1892) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec Photo: Wikipedia

Visitor Information

Tickets for adults cost €10 and €5 for students. The address for the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec is Palais de la Berbie, Place Sainte-Cécile. Find the cathedral and you’ll find the adjacent palace. Hours vary depending on the time of year, but for most of the year, the museum is open from 10 am to noon and 2 pm to 6 pm. From June 21 to September 30, the museum is open from 9 am to 6 pm.

Both the cathedral and the palace are built from bricks that glow pink in the setting sun.

Albi Cathedral in the setting sun
Albi Cathedral in the setting sun

Where to Stay in Albi

I chose a delightful place called La Cabane Albigeoise that was across the river from Albi but within easy walking distance. The place consists of just one stand-alone cabin on gorgeous grounds overlooking the river.

#3: Musée National Fernand Léger in Biot, France

If you’re staying in the Côte d’Azur, put a visit to this museum on your list of must-sees. As the only museum in the world dedicated to the work of Fernand Léger, this purpose-built museum is truly delightful. You’ll see a fabulous collection of Léger’s paintings, sculptures, drawings, ceramics, and tapestries.

Musée National Fernand Léger
Musée National Fernand Léger Photo Credit: Hans G. Oberlack, Creative Commons

Who is Fernand Léger?

Fernand Léger (1881-1955) was a French painter, sculptor, and filmmaker known for his bright and colorful work–a personal form of cubism known as “tubism”. He often depicted industrial subjects and objects of the consumer age–an art ‘first’–and is considered the forerunner of the pop art movement.

Léger was born in Argentan in Normandy. I recently read that his childhood home is being turned into a museum. That will definitely be on our itinerary the next time we travel in northern France. Check out the article.

Photograph of artist Fernand Léger
Source: Wikipedia
Fernand Léger
Source: Wikipedia

History of the Musée National Fernand Léger

In 1955, not long before his death, Léger purchased a villa on the property upon which the museum now stands. Supervised by his widow, construction of the museum began in 1957 with the museum opening to great fanfare in 1960.

The museum exhibits Léger’s work in chronological order, beginning with his realist early work and progressing to his “tubism” period prior to World War I with its emphasis on cylindrical forms and then to his “mechanical period” that was heavily influenced by his war experiences. The collection includes over 450 pieces.

In addition to the collection inside the museum, you’ll want to linger awhile on the grounds to enjoy Léger’s massive sculptures and especially to view the huge murals that cover the outside of the museum.

Sculpture on the grounds of the Musée National Fernand Léger
Source: Abxhay - Creative Commons
Sculpture on the grounds of the Musée National Fernand Léger
Source: Abxhay – Creative Commons

If you’re traveling with children, the Léger Museum is an excellent stop.

We first visited the museum when Julia was nine years old. She loved it! I think her appreciation for modern art stems partially from that visit. Mind you, growing up surrounded by her dad’s work also likely played a role!

Work of Fernand Léger

Léger’s work is bright, bold, and beautiful. It’s impossible, I think, to tour this museum and not enjoy yourself. The more you study his work, the more you appreciate it.

Here are two works by Léger. Regrettably, I did not take pictures when I visited the museum, so these photos are from the WikiArt website.

"Contrast of Forms" by Fernand Léger (1918)
Source: WikiArt
“Contrast of Forms” (1918) by Fernand Léger
Source: WikiArt

"The Man with the Cane" (1920) Source: WikiArt
“The Man with the Cane” (1920) by Fernand Léger
Source: WikiArt

Visitor Information

Visit the museum every day except Tuesdays, December 25, January 1, and May 1. From November to April, the museum is open from 10 am to 5 pm, and May to October from 10 am to 6 pm. Tickets cost €7.50. Admission is free on the first Sunday of the month. The museum is located at Chemin du Val de Pome, very close to Biot, a small village in the hills above the Côte d’Azur. If you’re traveling by car, you will find it easily. While you’re in the area, don’t miss several other wonderful museums showcasing the work of other 20th-century modern artists.

Two other single-artist museums—the Marc Chagall National Museum in Nice and the Musée National Pablo Picasso in Vallauris— are, like the Léger Museum, part of the network of French National museums in the Alpes-Maritimes department dedicated to 20th-century artists.

Where to Stay in Biot

Biot is a small town in the midst of many towns that make up the French Riviera. You can homebase in a nearby town such as Cannes, Nice, or Antibes and if you have a car, easily tootle around the various museums that make this area of France a true Artsy Traveler haven.

La Bastide de Biot is a good choice for a boutique hotel in Biot.

#4: Fondation Vasarely in Aix-en-Provence, France

On the outskirts of Aix-en-Provence (one of my favorite towns in the south of France), you’ll find the impressive and undervisited Fondation Vasarely. The museum showcases the massive artworks of Victor Vasarely, a Hungarian-French artist (1906-1997) considered the grandfather and leader of the op art movement.

Fernand Léger
Fondation Vasarely near Aix-en-Provence, France

Who is Victor Vasarely?

Victor Vasarely (1906-1997) was a French-Hungarian artist who used colorful geometric shapes to create compelling 3D optical illusions.

After settling in Paris in 1930, Vasarely experimented with Surrealism and Abstract Expressionism in the 1940s, then developed his hallmark checkerboard paintings.

Victor Vasarely
Source: Wikipedia
Victor Vasarely
Source: Wikipedia

History of the Fondation Vasarely

The Fondation Vasarely was opened in 1976 by French president Georges Pompidou.

Each of the seven hexagonal galleries contains six monumental works of art. On our most recent trip there in 2018, some of the artworks were in need of restoration, which is a shame.

Help support the continuation of this stunning museum by paying it a visit when you’re in the area.

Visiting here is like walking through posters from the swinging sixties, which is hardly surprising since the 3D optical illusions that characterize Vasarely’s work have graced the dorm rooms of students for decades.

Work of Victor Vasarely

Here are some of the massive pieces you’ll see at the Fondation Vasarely.

Large op art piece by Vasarely at the Fondation Vasarely near Aix-en-Provence, France - blues and greens
Large op art piece by Vasarely at the Fondation Vasarely near Aix-en-Provence, France - reds and multi-colors
Large op art piece by Vasarely at the Fondation Vasarely near Aix-en-Provence, France - blues and greens

Visitor Information

Located at 1, Avenue Marcel Pagnol on the outskirts of Aix-en-Provence, the distinctive museum is easy to find. Admission is €9 for adults. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 1 pm and 2 pm to 6 pm.

Where to Stay in Aix-en-Provence

You can choose stay stay in Aix-en-Provence itself and enjoy strolling the famous Cours Mirabeau, or choose a place a little ways out of town in the charming Provencal countryside. The Bastide de Damien fits the bill for a country choice.

#5: Max Ernst Museum near Cologne, Germany

The stylish Max Ernst Museum is located in Brühl, about a twenty-minute drive from Cologne on the way to Bonn. For Gregg, a visit there on a recent trip to the area was akin to a pilgrimage. Gregg has been a fan of surrealist Max Ernst for decades—pretty much since he first became an artist himself.

Gregg Simpson outside the Max Ernst Museum in Brühl near Cologne, Germany
Gregg outside the Max Ernst Museum in Brühl near Cologne, Germany

Who is Max Ernst?

Max Ernst (1891-1976) was born in Germany and became a naturalised American in 1948 and a French citizen in 1958. He was a painter, sculptor, graphic artist, collagist, and poet, a pioneer of the Dada movement, and a member of the surrealist group.

Towards the end of his life, Max Ernst, along with his wife, noted painter Dorothea Tanning, moved to the charming village of Seillans in the Var region of Provence. We spent two weeks in Seillans in July 2019 where Gregg had an exhibition in a space close to where Ernst and Tanning lived.

Max Ernst
Photo: Wikipedia
Max Ernst
Photo: Wikipedia

History of the Max Ernst Museum

The museum features a marvelous collection of Ernst’s work displayed in a thoughtfully renovated space. A modern glass pavilion is integrated into the horseshoe floor plan of the late-classicist Brühler Pavillon, a popular ballroom and social venue that was erected in 1844 and that Max Ernst himself visited in his youth.

Stylishly renovated Max Ernst Museum in Brühl, Germany
Stylishly renovated Max Ernst Museum in Brühl, Germany
Photo: Max Ernst Museum Website

You’ll find an extensive collection of paintings, drawings, frottages, collages, and sculptures spanning over 70 years of Ernst’s influential career, including his time in Brühl and Bonn, his Dadaist activities in the Rhineland, his contributions to the Surrealist movement in France, his exile in the United States during WWII, and finally his return to Europe in 1953.

I especially loved the sculptures on the grounds of the museum.

Work of Max Ernst

Max Ernst was a fabulously prolific artist with work that is detailed and complex and wholly distinctive. Here’s a selection of some of my favorite works by Max Ernst. Pictures are all from the max-ernst.com website.

"Attirement of the Bride" (1940) by Max Ernst
Attirement of the Bride” (1940) by Max Ernst
"Ubu Imperator" (1923) by Max Ernst
Ubu Imperator” (1923) by Max Ernst
"The Triumph of Surrealism" (1973) by Max Ernst
The Triumph of Surrealism” (1973) by Max Ernst

Visitor Information

The museum is located at Comesstraße 42 / Max-Ernst-Allee 1, 50321 Brühl and is open Tuesday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. At present (May, 2020), admission to the museum is free. For current information, check the museum website.

Where to Stay in Cologne

I recommend the Hotel Drei Kronen which is very close the Rhine right in the center of Cologne within walking distance of pretty much everything you’d want to see, including the marvelous cathedral.

#6: René Magritte Museum in Brussels, Belgium

The full name of the museum is the René Magritte Museum – Museum of Abstract Art, a double museum dedicated to Surrealism and Abstraction. Now that’s a double bill I can get behind.

On a recent short visit to Brussels, we made a beeline for the Magritte Museum and were not disappointed. As one of the most iconic figures in the surrealist movement, René Magritte deserves his own museum, and this one is first rate.

Who is René Magritte?

René Magritte (1898-1967) was a Belgian artist and probably one of the best-known surrealists after Salvador Dali. Back in the 1970s, I had a poster of his iconic painting of a massive dove called “The Large Family” on the wall of my student dorm–and I was not the only one.

"The Large Family" by Rene Magritte
Photo Credit: www.renemagritte.org
“The Large Family” by Rene Magritte
Photo Credit: www.renemagritte.org

In the 1920s, Magritte moved to Paris from Belgium and became involved with André Breton and the Surrealist group, of which he was a leading member. He exhibited in 1929 with several of the leading surrealists of the time, including Salvador Dalí, Jean Arp, de Chirico, Max Ernst, Joan Miró, Picabia, Picasso, and Yves Tanguy.

In 1930, Magritte returned to Brussels and continued painting there until his death. His imagery has heavily influenced pop, minimalist, and conceptual art.

René Magritte Photo: www.renemagritte.org

René Magritte Photo: www.renemagritte.org

History of the René Magritte Museum

The museum is relatively new, opened in 1999 shortly after Magritte’s one hundredth birthday. It’s built inside a house that Magritte lived in with his wife and includes an adjoining building that was renovated to showcase 250 masterpieces of Belgian abstract art.

You’ll tour the reconstruction of Magritte’s apartment on the ground floor and then view artworks from a collection that includes over 400 archive documents, photos, and objects, as well as 30 original works. You won’t see some of his most famous works, but you will get a good overview of Magritte’s development.

We loved it!

Work of René Magritte

Magritte’s work is endlessly fascinating–both for its meticulous technique and for its subject matter. Bowler hats, floating rocks, figures that are half animal/half people, and strange juxtapositions of everyday logic. When you tour the museum, you never know what you’re going to see around the next dimly lit corner.

Take your time and enjoy! Here are some of Magritte’s the works from the collection. Photos are all from the Magritte Museum pages on the Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium website (Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique)

L'empire des lumières by René Magritte
Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns - Art Photography
L’empire des lumières by René Magritte
Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns – Art Photography
Le Domaine d'Arnheim (1962) by  René Magritte - Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns - Art Photography
Le Domaine d’Arnheim (1962) by  René Magritte – Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns – Art Photography
La magie noire (1945) by René Magritte
Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns - Art Photography
La magie noire (1945) by René Magritte
Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns – Art Photography
Golconde (1953) by René Magritte - Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns - Art Photography
Golconde (1953) by René Magritte – Musées royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Bruxelles / photo : J. Geleyns – Art Photography

Visitor Information

Located at Place Royale, Koningsplein 1 in Brussels, admission to the museum is €10 for adults, €8 for seniors, and €3 for students. Opening hours are Monday to Friday from 10:00 am to 5:00 pm and weekends from 11:00 am to 6:00 pm. Check the website for up-to-date information.

Where to Stay in Brussels

If you’re driving, I recommend the stylish Thon Hotel Bristol Stephanie on the Avenue Louise, just steps from Louise Metro. I stayed there one rainy night in October and wished I could have stayed much longer!

#7: Museo Sorolla in Madrid by Guest Poster Liz Reding

This description of the Sorolla Museum is written by guest poster Liz Reding. She and her husband visited in March, 2020, days before the museum closed in response to the COVID-19 pandemic.

Liz Reding: My husband and I have been admirers of the paintings of Joaquín Sorolla for many years, so on our recent trip to Madrid, a visit to the Museo Sorolla was top of our list.

Who is Joaquín Sorolla?

Born in Valencia, Spain, Joaquín Sorolla y Bastida (1863-1923) received his art education in Madrid, Rome, and Paris and was a contemporary of Picasso, Matisse, John Singer Sargent, and Andreas Zorn. He and his wife, Clotilde, had three children.

He painted portraits, landscapes, and monumental works depicting social and historical themes.

Joaquín Sorolla
Photo: Wikipedia
Joaquín Sorolla
Photo: Wikipedia

History of the Museo Sorolla

The Museo Sorolla is located in the home that Sorolla shared with his family, and is considered one of the best-preserved artist houses in Europe. The collection of more than 1,200 pieces is displayed along with the house’s original furniture and objects.

The house is surrounded by a delightful garden, a real oasis from the rumble of the cars and buses just outside the gate. 

Garden at the Museo Sorolla in Madrid, Spain
Photo Credit: Liz Reding
Garden at the Museo Sorolla in Madrid, Spain
Photo Credit: Liz Reding

By urban standards, this museum is relatively small, but packed with dozens of gorgeous paintings, as well as sculptures, sketches, photographs, water colors, and writings.

One noteworthy feature of this museum is that all the works are expertly hung and well lit. Most of the viewing rooms have deep colors that enhance the paintings with light-diffusing devices, such as a window shade or ceiling tapestry. What a pleasure!

Interior of the Museo Sorolla in Madrid, Spain
Photo Credit: Liz Reding
Interior of the Museo Sorolla in Madrid, Spain
Photo Credit: Liz Reding

Work of Joaquín Sorolla

Sorolla’s wife and children are featured in a significant number of Sorolla’s paintings, and his love and admiration for them clearly shows. In addition, Sorolla painted many portraits of important people, including U. S. President Taft, and is known for his masterful handling of light, as evidenced by his many beach-scene paintings.

Here are two of Sorolla’s works exhibited at the Museo Sorolla.

Painting by Joaquín Sorolla at the Museo Sorolla, Madrid
Photo credit: Liz Reding
Painting by Joaquín Sorolla at the Museo Sorolla, Madrid
Photo credit: Liz Reding

Visitor Information

Located at Paseo General Martínez Campos, 37, the Museo Sorolla is open Tuesday to Saturday from 9:30 am to 8:00 pm and on Sundays and holidays from 10:00 am to 3:00 pm. Tickets cost €3.

Where to Stay in Madrid

I highly recommend the Apartosuites Jardines de Sabatini, particularly if you are driving because it’s just on the edge of the traffic limited zone but still within walking distance of just about everywhere you’ll want to go in Madrid.

Other Single-Artist Museums in Europe

I wish I could say that I’ve visited all the single-artist museums that I’d like to in Europe, but not yet!

Here are just some of the museums I look forward to visiting in the next few years. If you’ve been to any of them, add a comment to let other Artsy Travelers know what you think!

Fondation Jean Dubuffet

Located in Périgny-sur-Yerres in the department of Val-de-Marne, the Dubuffet Foundation includes paintings and massive outdoor sculptures by Jean Dubuffet. Many years ago, we went there only to find it closed, but we did manage to peek through the fence! It looked amazing!

Zentrum Paul Klee in Bern, Switzerland

I’m a big fan of the work of Paul Klee and have his museum on my list for the next time we drive through Switzerland. Check the website for details.

Franz Marc Museum in Kochel, Germany

A modern extension has extended the exhibition space of this beautifully-situated museum, It overlooks a lake near the little town of Kochel in Bavaria, about an hour west of Munich. Franz Marc’s colorful work makes me smile. Check the website for details.

Conclusion

Have you visited any of the museums listed in this post? If so, let Artsy Traveler readers know what you think.

To keep reading about art in Europe, check out these posts:

Paris for Art Lovers: Nine of the Best Small Museums in Paris

Choosing the best small museums in Paris to feature in a post about my fave art museums is like choosing a favorite child. It’s almost impossible! But I’m going to give it whirl anyway to introduce you to some museums that you may not have visited.

You’ll notice I’ve left the three biggies off my list: the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay and the Centre Pompidou. All three are über must-sees, and you’ll find information about them in this post that matches Parisian sights with bistro dishes from my novel Love Among the Recipes.

Pinterest graphic with the text Paris for Art Lovers: Nine of the Best Small Museums in Paris" over a picture of Monet's waterlilies at the top and a row or medieval scsulpture from the Cluny Museum in Paris at the bottom.

But the operative word in this post is small, some may even say obscure! You will find some fairly well-known museums on my list, but you may also find several that you have not heard of, let alone visited.

I’ve organized the museums by arrondissement, starting with the Orangerie in the 1st arrondissement and ending with the Marmottan Museum in the 16th arrondissement. The map belows shows the location of each museum.

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a vacation planner app on iOS and Android

#1: The Orangerie

The Musée de l’Orangerie is not far from the Louvre and overlooks the Jardin des Tuileries. I always enjoy popping into the Orangerie to revisit one of the most compelling exhibitions in Paris.

Here, in two consecutive oval salons, you’ll view the eight large paintings that make up Les Nymphéas by Monet. Lit by natural light from the ceiling and oriented from west to east, the light follows the course of the sun.

Detail from a painting of waterlilies by Claude Monet

Monet helped to design these rooms in which his paintings are displayed. He wanted visitors to immerse themselves in the paintings and find solace in their beauty following the horrors of World War I. Monet certainly knew what he was about. Walking through the two salons of the Orangerie feels like being submersed in a cool, blue, calm oasis. As you can tell, I love this space!

Take a virtual tour of the Orangerie.

Visiting the Orangerie

Go to the Orangerie as early in the day as possible to avoid the crowds. Contemplating these incredible paintings is best done in quiet and solitude.

In the first salon, the four compositions depict the reflections of the sky and vegetation in the water from morning to evening. The colors vary from yellows and pinks to greens. I find the paintings the first salon both cheerful and soothing.

But my favorite is the second salon, where the dominant blues inspire a mood of intense calm. Relax on one of the benches and let the beauty of the pieces wash over you. You’ll almost feel as if you’re actually in nature, rather than simply looking at depictions of nature.

After viewing the water lily paintings, check out the rest of the Orangerie. The permanent collection includes works by most of the greats, including Renoir, Gauguin, Cézanne, and Sisley.

Special Exhibitions at the Orangerie

We’ve seen some beautifully curated special exhibitions at the Orangerie, most recently an exhibition of Spanish impressionists. Consult the website to see what’s on.

The Orangerie is located at the Jardin des Tuileries, Place de la Concorde. The closest Métro is Tuileries. Make sure to buy your ticket in advance so you can skip the line-up. The museum is open from 9 am to 6 pm daily except Tuesdays.

#2: Picasso Museum

Situated in the heart of Le Marais, the Musée National Picasso-Paris is home to over 5,000 works in a comprehensive collection that includes paintings, sculptures, and engravings.

Housed in the historic Hôtel Salé, a private mansion at 5 rue de Thorigny, the building has been described as “the grandest, most extraordinary, if not the most extravagant, of the grand Parisian houses of the 17th century”.

You’ll also see sketches, studies, drafts, notebooks, etchings, photographs, films, illustrated books, and other documents that demonstrate Picasso’s creative process.

If you’re a fan of modern art, and Picasso in particular, this beautiful museum will keep you well entertained and informed.

The Picasso Museum is open Tuesday to Friday from 10.30 am to 6 pm and weekends from 9.30 am to 6 pm. The museum is popular, so buy your ticket in advance.

#3: Cluny Museum

If I had to choose my favorite art museum in Paris, I would have to say the Musée de Cluny – Le monde médiéval, known colloquially as the Cluny. I enjoy it more than the three biggies for several reasons.

First, it’s manageable, unlike its larger cousins. You can tour the Cluny in an afternoon and still have energy to enjoy the lively 5th arrondissement. Spend an afternoon pacing the massive galleries at the Louvre and you’ll need an hour relaxing by a fountain in the Tuileries to recover.

Second, the Cluny features room after room of outlandishly awesome objets d’art from the Middle Ages–the historical period I most prefer.

Third, you’ll see the gorgeous Lady and the Unicorn tapestries woven from silk and wool in Paris around 1500. Admiring these six tapestries is worth the price of admission alone.

What to See at the Cluny

Take a seat in the special circular room that houses the tapestries and enjoy decoding how each of the first five tapestries depicts a different sense: taste, touch, smell, hearing, and sight. And what is the meaning of the sixth tapestry titled À mon seul désir? The jury’s still out, but some say the tapestry represents love.

The Lady and the unicorn Desire

The sixth tapestry: À mon seul désir Photo: Wikipedia

In addition to the tapestries, the Cluny offers amazing displays of wooden statues, stained glass, objects made from ivory, stone sculptures, and numerous household objects, furniture, paintings… the list goes on.

On one visit to the Cluny, I happened upon a concert of medieval choral music in the sculpture courtyard. Hearing that music while surrounded by the objects made during the same period was transporting. I love coming upon unexpected performances when I’m traveling in Europe. Keep your eyes peeled (as my Dad used to say). You’re bound to discover all sorts of opportunities to enjoy performances in some of your favorite museums and galleries.

Row of sculptures in the Cluny Museum in Paris, one of the best small museums in Paris
Sculptures in the marvelous Cluny Museum

Check the website to find out if concerts are scheduled when you’re in Paris. In the meantime, you can explore the collections at the Cluny on the museum’s comprehensive website.

The Cluny is located at 28 Rue du Sommerard. The closest Métros are Cluny-La Sorbonne, Saint-Michel, and Odéon.

#4: Zadkine Museum

The Musée Zadkine has been called a “folly” in the middle of Paris. On rue d’Assas in the 6th arrondissement and close to the Luxembourg Gardens and hip Montparnasse, the Zadkine Museum was once the studio of Ossip Zadkine (1890-1967), a sculptor of Russian origin.

The small exterior door leads you into a calm, green space that feels miles away from the bustle of Paris. You’ll find sculptures in a variety of media, including wood, stone, clay, and even bronze, along with graphic works and illustrations, photographs, tapestries, and archival material.

Musée Zadkine - Jardin

Sculpture by Zadkine at the Zadkine Museum. Photo: Wikipedia

Shortly before he died, Zadkine wrote, “But it is in any case very beautiful to end your life with a chisel and mallet in your hands.”

The Musée Zadkine is located at 100 bis Rue d’Assass and is open from 10 am to 6 pm Tuesday to Sunday. The closest Métros are Notre-Dame des Champs and Vavin.

#5: Quai Branly Museum

Not far from the Eiffel Tower but still in the 7th arrondissement and close to the river, the spectacular Musée du Quai Branly Jacques Chirac is a must-see. I never tire of visiting this museum because there is such an incredible number of things (370,000 apparently) to ponder and enjoy.

The Quai Branly houses a remarkable collection of art and objects from around the globe organized into four geographical areas—Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas.

I love this museum’s attention to detail. Interactive screens set up in alcoves around the museum provide in-depth information about specific exhibits. You could spend weeks here and only scratch the surface.

Exterior of the Quai Branly Museum in Paris

The range and complexity of the objects displayed is a testament to human creativity through the ages. Set aside half a day to explore this incroyable museum.

Special exhibitions are also featured. On one visit, we saw an exhibition of Picasso’s collection of art from around the world, including Africa.

The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:30 am to 7:00 pm (Thursdays until 10:00 pm).

#6: Rodin Museum

The Musée Rodin in the 7th arrondissement is simply gorgeous. Housed in the magnificent Hôtel Biron and surrounded by three hectares of sculpture-studded gardens, the Musée Rodin celebrates the work of one of France’s premier sculptors.

Check out The Thinker perpetually contemplating life in the garden then go inside and marvel at the statue called The Kiss. Ooh la la! Wander through room after chandeliered room of sculptures—some marble, some plaster, some bronze. The sheer volume and range of work is overwhelming.

Rodin Museum in Paris, one of the best small museums in Paris.
Rodin Museum in Paris

The Musée Rodin is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6:30 pm.

#7: Musée Maillol

In a quiet area of the 7th arrondissement, the Musée Maillol is well known by Parisian art lovers for its special exhibitions but is not as well known by visitors. We’ve seen excellent exhibitions at the Maillol, including an collection of paintings by van Gogh and a spectacular display of paintings by Artemisia Gentileschi.

The exhibitions we’ve seen have featured several walls’ worth of information about the paintings—all in French. If you don’t read French, ask if a handout with an English translation is available.

The Musée Maillol was established by Dina Vierny, an artists’ model who became a famous singer, art dealer, collector, museum director, and Aristide Maillol’s muse for the final ten years of his life. The top floors of the Musée Maillol feature many works by Maillol, including monumental sculptures of female nudes. Maillol’s work is amazing and beautifully displayed. You’ll also find works by several 20th-century artists.

The Musée Maillol is open daily from 10:30 am to 6:30 pm when exhibitions are on (Fridays until 8:30 pm).

#8: Gustave Moreau Museum

The Musée National Gustave Moreau in the 9th arrondissement at the foot of Montmartre is quite the revelation. If you’re familiar with the work of the symbolist painter Moreau, you’ll know that you’re in for a treat. The museum occupies the painter’s family home and includes hundreds of paintings and watercolors showcasing the work of a painter many consider the master of French Symbolism.

Some of the paintings are massive and contain so much intricate detail that your eyes get sore just looking at them!

Gustave Moreau Salomé 1876

Salome by Gustave Moreau / Photo: Wikipedia

Jupiter and Semele - Gustave Moreau

Jupiter and Semele by Gustave Moreau / Photo: Wikipedia

The museum is open daily, except Tuesdays, from 10 am to 6 pm.

#9: Marmottan Museum

Located in the stylish 16th arrondissement, the Musée Marmottan Monet is one of the loveliest art museums in Paris. Highlights of the collection are the works by the impressionists Claude Monet and Berthe Morisot. In addition, you’ll see a collection from the Middle Ages, the Renaissance, and the Second Empire, along with paintings by other impressionists, such as Caillebotte, Degas, Pissarro, Renoir, Sisley, and Rodin.

Berthe Morisot, who painted The Sisters shown above, is one of the artists frequently exhibited at The Marmottan

The Marmottan is a bit of a trek from the Metro (La Muette or Ranelagh) but worth the effort required to get there. It features a great museum shop (I’m a sucker for a good museum shop).

The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm (last admission: 5.30 pm), with extended hours to 9 pm on Thursdays (last admission: 8.30 pm).

Conclusion

Have you been to any of these art museums in Paris? Do you have other suggestions for artsy travelers? Share your recommendations in the Comments section below.

Here are some more posts about art in Paris:

Guggenheim museum in Bilbao, Spain, one of the top ten modern art museums in Europe

12 of the Best Modern Art Museums in Europe

Are you a fan of modern art? If so, then you’ll find plenty of art thrills in Europe, where some of the best modern art and contemporary art museums in the world are located.

In this post, I’ve chosen mostly large modern art museums in Europe that feature a variety of artists, mostly from the 20th century, and modern art museums in Europe have collections that span the decades.

My focus is on modern art so you won’t find museums like the Prado and the Louvre in this post. But you will find the Pompidou, the Guggenheim Bilbao and the Tate Modern!

A travel pin with the text “Best Modern Art Museums in Europe” overlaid on a metallic facade of the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao. The website "artsytraveler.com" is displayed at the bottom.

As a life-long lover of modern art (check out my husband Gregg Simpson’s art and you’ll see why!), I’m a bit of a kid in a candy store when it comes to finding awesome modern art museums in Europe.

You’ll be spoiled for choice!

Highlights at a Glance

  • The iconic architecture of the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao in Spain’s evocative Basque Country
  • Picasso’s Guernica at the Reina Sofia in Madrid, Spain–so much more powerful in person than in reproductions
  • The stunning outdoor art installations at the Kröller-Müller Museum near Otterlo in the Netherlands
  • The collection of 20th century modern masters on the 4th floor of the Pompidou in Paris
  • The location and ambiance of the Fondation Maeght in the hills above the French Riviera near the delightful village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence

Check for Exhibitions

Modern art museums in Europe often host temporary exhibitions showcasing the best of contemporary art.

Before you set off for Europe, take some time to check for special exhibitions in the places you’re visiting. Many times, I’ve changed my itinerary on the fly to catch an exhibition before it closes or to take in one at its start.

One of the great pleasures of traveling is switching gears halfway through a trip—to zig when you planned to zag. Stay open to possibilities when you travel. Often, you’ll meet someone who’ll tell you about a must-see art museum that you’ve never heard of.

On a recent trip to Porto in Portugal, we were told about a special exhibition of the work of M. C. Escher. What a treat! We never would have known about it because of its location in an exhibition space rather than a museum.

Chat with servers at dinner and strike up a conversation with other travelers you meet on the train or at your hotel. People love to share recommendations!

Modern Art Focus

As I mentioned earlier, this post focuses only on modern art museums in Europe that have significant and varied modern art collections.

What do I mean by modern art? I’m a huge fan of 20th-century art from about the turn of the century to the 1960s. I also appreciate some (not all) of the contemporary art created post-1960.

Most of the art museums covered in this post primarily exhibit traditional modern art. That sounds like an oxymoron, but if you’re an art fan, you’ll know what I mean!

Modern art—as distinct from contemporary art—encompasses the work of a slew of big names. These include Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró, Henri Matisse, Georgia O’Keeffe, Rene Magritte… the list goes on and on and on.

In this post, I list only modern art museums in Europe that feature works by modern masters in their permanent collections.

Map of Modern Art Museums in Europe

From the Louvre to the Tate Modern, the modern art museums in Europe are vast and varied.

Here are the locations of all the modern art museums covered in the post–from Bilbao (#1) in Spain to the Tate St. Ives (#12) in Cornwall, England.

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a road trip planner on iOS and Android

Although not included in this post, another excellent modern art museum well worth a visit is the Ludwig Museum in Cologne. For more about this museum check out my post Cologne’s Museum Ludwig: Best Bet for Modern Art Lovers

Bilbao, Spain: The Guggenheim Museum

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao (#1 on the map) is worth the hype and worth the trip. Located in the Basque region of northeast Spain, Bilbao isn’t on the beaten tourist path.

But please, if you’re in northern Spain and within striking distance of Bilbao, find the time to spend a night there so you can spend a few hours exploring the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao.

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao was built to revive the failing industrial city. How marvelous that the city bigwigs used art to pull their city out of the economic doldrums and place it firmly on the world cultural map.

The move was bold, even audacious, but it’s paid off spectacularly, thanks to Frank Gehry’s spectacular structure.

Now the Guggenheim Bilbao shows up in just about every Top Ten list of modern art museums worldwide.

Exterior of the Guggenheim Bilbao

The exterior of the Guggenheim Bilbao plays a major role in its appeal to art lovers. Stroll around outside the building to see the many amazing sculptures.

Most notable are Tall Trees and The Eye by Anish Kapoor, the massive spider Maman by Louise Bourgeois, and the wildly popular Puppy by Jeff Koons.

I defy anyone to stand in front of Puppy and not smile. He is adorable. That is, if a 43-foot tall, flower-encrusted West Highland Terrier can be called adorable. 

Exterior of the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao with the sculpture Tall Tree & The Eye by Anish Kapoor. The reflective silver spheres contrast with the modern metallic facade of the museum.
Sculpture by Anish Kapoor
A giant bronze spider sculpture titled Maman by Louise Bourgeois outside the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao. Visitors walk beneath the towering sculpture, casting intricate shadows on the ground.
Sculpture called Maman by Louise Bourgeois

Inside the Guggenheim Bilbao

The museum’s interior is as compelling as its exterior.

On one of my two visits to Bilbao, I was lucky to catch a major exhibition of recent landscapes by David Hockney. The massive galleries and thoughtful curatorial choices made the exhibition one of my favorites, which is saying something.

I was also taken with the massive installations by Frank Serra. 

The whole complex with its gorgeous setting on the Nervion River really is miraculous. The museum attracts over 20 million visitors annually.

Now, that’s an art success story!

Exhibitions at the Guggenheim Bilbao change frequently, so check what’s on and then plan your visit accordingly. You won’t regret devoting time to exploring the Basque region of Spain. 

Practical Information for the Guggenheim Bilbao

Guggenheim Bilbao is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 7 pm. It’s closed on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day. Museum admission currently costs €15 for adults, €7.5 for seniors (65+) and students. Youths under 18 and Museum members are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.

Tours of the Guggenheim Bilbao

A great way to see the Guggenheim Bilbao is on a private tour if you have the spare funds, or a small group tour for the more budget-conscious. Modern art is sometimes not so easy to understand, and having a guide can really help you make sense of what you’re looking at.

You’ll also learn a lot about the stunning architecture and permanent installations such as Puppy and Maman. Here’s a guided tour offered through GetYourGuide.

Where to Stay in Bilbao

On both my trips to Bilbao, I stayed in excellent four-star hotels. Both were within walking distance of the Guggenheim Bilbao.

Catalonia Gran Vía Bilbao: In downtown Bilbao, this place is truly lovely with a very friendly staff and a good location for exploring more of Bilbao beyond the Guggenheim.

Hotel Meliá Bilbao: Situated right on the river, the modern hotel has all the amenities and is fairly easy to drive to.


Bratislava, Slovakia: Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum

Situated on the Danube as the name suggests and about 20 kilometers from Bratislava in the Slovak Republic, the Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum is billed as “one of the most romantic museums of modern art in Europe”.

The museum, opened in 2000, was founded by Gerard Meulensteen of Eindhoven, a Dutch collector and art patron, and Slovak gallerist Vincent Polakovič.

Night view of the Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum in Bratislava, Slovakia. The building, illuminated by bright lights, reflects onto the still river water under a deep blue sky.
Danubiana Meluensteen Art Museum website. Used with permission

The collection includes works by artists from the experimental CoBrA group in the Netherlands, such as Karel Appel and Eugen Brands . Also included are works by Sam Francis, Christo, Corneille, Pierre Alechinsky, and others. 

Plenty of quirky and colorful outdoor sculptures along with the dramatic setting on the Danube make this museum a must-see if you’re traveling to Bratislava.

Outdoor sculptures at the Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum in Bratislava, Slovakia. Geometric metal figures and colorful abstract shapes stand on a manicured lawn beside the river, surrounded by trees and a walking path.
Danubiana Meluensteen Art Museum website. Used with permission.

Practical Information for the Danubiana Meluensteen Art Museum

Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm. Museum admission currently costs €10 for adults, €5 for seniors (62+) and students. Children under 6, seniors (75+) and Museum members are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.

Where to Stay in Bratislava

The Danubiana Museum is a few kilometers up river from Bratislava itself where you’ll find these two hotels. Both are located in historic buildings and highly rated.

Marrol’s Boutique Hotel: Located in Bratislava city center, this hotel is rated 5-star, but the price is more like a 3-star. It looks amazing!

Arcadia Boutique Hotel: Centrally located in a 13th-century building in Bratislava’s Old Town. Rooms include antique furniture.


London, England: Tate Modern

I’ve visited the Tate Modern in London a few times and have mixed feelings about it, to be honest! It’s a monumental place and a huge accomplishment from an architectural perspective.

I mean, seriously—a power station?

It’s pretty darned amazing that the Swiss architecture firm Herzog & de Meuron could convert the Bankside power station into an art gallery and still keep much of the building’s original character.

The Tate Modern art museum in London, with its tall chimney and modern extension, viewed from across the River Thames on a clear day.
View of the Tate Modern from the Thames in London, England

However, I can’t say that I loved—or even liked—all the art exhibited in the Tate Modern. Several exhibits comprise contemporary and installation art, most of which was kind of hit or miss, in my opinion.

However, the special exhibitions can be worthwhile. I saw a wonderful retrospective of the work of American artist Georgia O’Keeffe on one visit, and an exhibition of international surrealism on another visit. My husband, Gregg Simpson, was honored to be included in the catalog for the latter exhibition.

Location of the Tate Modern

The location of the Tate Modern on the south side of the Thames, right across the new Millennium Bridge from St. Paul’s Cathedral, is a selling point. You can see the Tate Modern in the morning and then stroll across the bridge and visit St. Paul’s and the City in the afternoon.

You can also take in two Tates in a day. A good strategy is to start at the Tate Britain upriver. Check out the paintings by William Blake and some of the best works by the pre-Raphaelites. Then, hop on the Tate Boat at Millbank Pier and sail downriver to Bankside Pier to see the Tate Modern.

The Tate Boat runs every twenty to thirty minutes along the Thames.

And if you happen be down in St. Ives in Cornwall, don’t miss the Tate St. Ives.

Practical Information for the Tate Modern

Tate Modern is open daily from 10 am – 6 pm and the admission is free.

Tours of the Tate Modern

Why not take a tour of the Tate Modern with an expert guide? You’ll learn about the history and architecture of the gallery along with highlights of the collection. Here’s a guided tour offered through GetYourGuide:

Powered by GetYourGuide

Where to Stay in London

I always stay around the West End so I’m within walking distance of the theaters, Trafalgar Square and two of my favorite art museums–the National Gallery and the Courtauld.

Here are three places I’ve stayed in that I recommend and that won’t break the bank (and are still four-star and comfy):

Wilde Aparthotel Covent Garden: Located steps from the Strand in the center of the action, the Wilde Aparthotel Covent Garden is an excellent choice. I even wrote a whole post about my stay there!

The Cavendish near Green Park is in a posh area and close to just about everything. When I stayed there, I was able to walk or take a bus everywhere I wanted to go. I didn’t once need to take the Tube!

Park Plaza Victoria London Hotel is located right across the street from Victoria Station and is a remarkably good deal for a modern, four-star hotel in the heart of London.


Madrid, Spain: Reina Sofia

The Reina Sofia is home to one of the most famous paintings of the 20th century—Guernica by Pablo Picasso.

You’ve likely seen Guernica many times in reproduction. However, seeing the “real thing” is a different story.

The massive mural in the Reina Sofía has pride of place in a room of its own. You can sense how enraged Picasso must have felt as he painted it.

Its graphic depiction of the bombing of the old Basque city of Gernika in April 1937 has become an iconic image of the brutality of war. 

A large outdoor mosaic version of Picasso's Guernica, depicting distorted figures and animals in shades of black, white, and gray, mounted on a stone wall with the inscription “Guernica Gernikara.”
Outdoor reproduction of Guernica by Picasso / Image by Almudena Sanz from Pixabay

As one of the premier modern art museums in Europe, the Reina Sofia combines a modern area with the arched hallways and barred windows of an old hospital. In several rooms, films representing specific 20th-century periods are running. Most are silent-era films, which makes following them a lot easier if your Spanish is minimal.

Included in the Reina Sofia are masterpieces by Salvador Dalí, Joan Miró, and Juan Gris, as well as a collection of over 22,400 works divided into three sections titled: The Irruption of the 20th Century: Utopia and Conflict (1900-1945)Is the War Over? Art in a Divided World (1945-1968), and From Revolt to Postmodernity (1962-1982).  

Visiting the Reina Sofía

The museum is located on the Art Walk (Paseo del Arte)—a one-kilometer stretch that also includes the must-see Prado Museum and the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum.

Practical Information for the Reina Sofia

Reina Sofia is open from daily except Tuesdays from 10 am to 9 pm (Sundays until 2:30 pm). Museum admission currently costs €12. The website has the latest rates.

Tours of the Reina Sofia

Explore the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía, Spain’s national museum of 20th-century art, on a guided tour and learn about the diverse collection.

Powered by GetYourGuide

Where to Stay in Madrid

Stay as close to the centro as you can in Madrid. Largely traffic free, the centro is full of narrow streets and grand plazas, and not too far from Madrid’s three big museums, including the Reina Sofia.

ApartoSuites Jardines de Sabatini: I stayed here for two weeks and loved it! The location right across the street from the Royal Palace puts it about a ten minute walk from the centro, but still outside the traffic limited zone so you can drive there and park in the parking lot right next door. The staff are wonderful and the one-bedroom apartments are spacious and comfortable.

nQn Aparts & Suites Madrid: This place is even closer to the city center within steps of the Plaza Mayor.


Munich, Germany: Pinakothek der Moderne

The Pinakothek der Modern in central Munich is one of three Pinakotheks in Munich’s Kunstareal (art district).

The museum features an excellent collection of the works of German Expressionist artists. In addition, you’ll find works by modern masters, including Picasso, Miró, Kandinsky, Klee, and Marc.

Other exhibits are related to form and function in a section that features modern industrial design and manufacture, furniture, and appliances.

On Sundays, the admission price is significantly discounted—at least it was when I visited. After strolling through the galleries, stop by the café.

Practical Information for the Pinakothek der Moderne

Pinakothek der Moderne is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm (Thursdays to 8 pm). Museum admission currently costs €10 for adults, €7 for seniors (65+) and students. Youths under 18 are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.

Interesting Art Tour in Munich

After touring the Pinakothek der Moderne, keep the art juices flowing by taking this intriguing-looking street art bike tour with GetYourGuide. There’s a lively street art scene in Munich, a city that pioneered the graffiti movement in Germany in the 1980s.

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Where to Stay in Munich

Boutique Hotel Splendid: Located in the center of Munich within easy walking distance of many attractions. Comfortable rooms.

Andaz Munich Schwabinger Tor by Hyatt: This is a bit of a splurge, but its location next to the English Garden is great if you’re looking for a stroll in nature after touring Munich’s museums. The buffet breakfast here was the most opulent I’ve ever seen.


Otterlo, Netherlands: Kröller-Müller Museum

I was 18 years old and traveling on my own for the first time in Europe when first I visited the Kröller-Müller Museum. Located in the Dutch National Park (Nationaal Park De Hoge Veluwe) outside Otterlo and not far from Arnhem, this museum is a must-see

To say that the Kröller-Müller blew me away on my first visit would be an understatement. Fresh off the plane from Canada, I’d seen nothing like it in my suburban, middle-class life.

The Kröller-Müller Museum is light, airy, and filled with famous works by van Gogh and a load of other great painters.

Even better, the museum is smack in the middle of the Dutch National Park. This amazing park teems with deer, rolling sand hills, intriguing forests, and miles of bike paths.

Visiting the Kröller-Müller Museum

When I revisited the museum with Gregg recently, I was thrilled to discover that the Kröller-Müller and the park were as awesome as I remembered.

Everything about the place is perfect!

The museum includes dozens of paintings by van Gogh, room after room of other greats from the 19th and early 20th centuries, a massive sculpture garden, and even a bustling outdoor café with excellent food.

The word that comes to mind when touring the sculpture garden is serendipity. The sculptures are modern and diverse and often positioned in unexpected places.

Every turn of a pathway through forests and across green clipped lawns reveals yet another vista and another sculpture—stone or wood or marble, some moving, some static, some aesthetically stunning, some quirky, a few ugly, and yet all perfect. 

A smooth, white abstract sculpture reflects in a pond, surrounded by lush greenery at the Kröller-Müller Museum's sculpture garden in the Netherlands.
Floating sculpture on the grounds of the Kröller-Müller Museum in the Netherlands

Getting to the Kröller-Müller Museum

If you’re a fan of van Gogh and modern sculpture but haven’t visited the Kröller-Müller, then go.

Take a day tour from Amsterdam, or better, drive and stay a few days in the area. Gregg and I combined our visit to the Kröller-Müller with a bike ride around a portion of the 55-square-kilometer national park.

Explore a remarkably varied landscape that includes stunningly beautiful forests, heathlands, and sand dunes. You’ll spot impressively antlered deer, wild boar, foxes, sheep, and more.

A majestic red deer stag walks across a field of purple heath, with a dense forest in the background at a Dutch national park.
Red deer stag in the Dutch National Park at Hoge Veluwe

Practical Information for the Kröller-Müller Museum

Kröller-Müller Museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 5 pm. Museum admission currently costs €13.50 for adults, €6.75 for youths (13 – 18). Children under 12 are admitted free. The website has the latest rates. Plaese note that the museum is located in the middle of De Hoge Veluwe National Park. Therefore, you also have to buy a ticket for the park that costs €13.40 for age 13 and older, and €6.70 for ages 6 -12.

Tour to the Kröller-Müller from Amsterdam

This full-day tour is a great option if you don’t have your own transport. The tour goes from Amsterdam and includes time to explore the awesome Hoge Veluwe National Park.

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Where to Stay near the Kröller-Müller Museum

The Kröller-Müller Museum is in a lovely rural area of the Netherlands. You can choose to stay near the museum or in nearby Arnhem. Here’s the place I stayed in:

Fletcher Hotel-Restaurant De Buunderkamp: This place is nestled in the woods not far from the Kröller-Müller Museum. Rooms are spacious and there’s an indoor pool. You can even rent bikes to explore the area, which we did and it was gorgeous!


Paris, France: Centre Pompidou

My most recent experience with the Pompidou Center (one of my absolute favorite modern art museums in Europe) was fraught with pure terror.

Gregg and I were trying to find an art gallery on an obscure side street that even Google Maps couldn’t find. The gallery was hosting an exhibition of Gregg’s work, so finding the gallery was a matter of some urgency.

I directed Gregg to turn down what I trusted was the right street. He drove a short block over cobblestones to emerge into a wide, pedestrian-only space that butted up against the back end of the massive Pompidou Center. 

Mon Dieu!

I looked up at the crazy exoskeleton of pipes and glass that had horrified Parisians when it was first built and yelled a few choice curses into my phone. The Google Maps lady was not impressed. She continued to insist that we drive across the square.

The exterior of the Centre Pompidou in Paris, with its exposed framework, red escalator tube, and banners promoting current exhibitions.
Exterior of the Pompidou Center in Paris

Luckily, the space was relatively empty of people (a rare event) so Gregg was able to execute a hasty U-turn and head smartly down the correct street. The only problem was that the street was one-way, and we were barreling down it the wrong way.

Fortunately, we found the gallery without having a head-on collision. A few hours later, after unloading the paintings and hanging the show, we were swanning about the vernissage (the opening), champagne glasses in hand.

Phew!

Visiting the Centre Pompidou

Every time we visit Paris, we make a beeline for the Pompidou. Its special exhibitions are almost always excellent.

UPDATE: The Centre Pompidou is currently closed for renovations set to last for several years. You can still take advantage of the Constellation Program that features exhibitions in venues around Paris. Check the Pompidou website for details.

The best thing about the Pompidou (before is temporary closure) is the collection on the legendary fourth floor. I don’t know where the collection will be housed when the Pompidou reopens, but I’m pretty sure it will still be a veritable “who’s who” of early 20th-century modern art.

All the most famous names are represented. Look forward to the day when you can again stroll through the rooms picking out your favorites and reveling in the glorious mishmash of colors and forms that characterize 20th-century modern art.

After sighing your way around the art, take the escalator to the rooftop to relish one of the best views of the Paris skyline.

Practical Information for the Pompidou Center

Centre Pompidou is currently closed for renovation. The website has the details.

Where to Stay in Paris

I favor staying on the Left Bank when I’m in Paris, preferably Saint Germain, although that area is getting pretty expensive. In Paris, an apartment or aparthotel may be your best bet. Hotel rooms tend to be very small.

Here are three of my recommendations for places to stay in Paris on the Left Bank.

Hotel de L’Université: I love the location of this boutique hotel–close to Boulevard Saint Germain and the Seine but a bit removed from the busiest areas of Saint Germain. Rooms are quite spacious (for Paris) and the old beams in the ceiling are a nice touch.

Citadines Saint-Germain-des-Prés: This aparthotel is part of the Citadines chain and is good value considering the excellent location right on the Seine in the 6th arrondisement. I’ve stayed here twice over the past two years.

Le Clos Medicis: Located very close to the Jardin du Luxembourg, this charming boutique hotel has attractive rooms and a very comfy lobby.


Rome’s National Gallery of Modern Art (Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna) is conveniently located on the edge of the Borghese Gardens, surely one of Europe’s most beguiling parks. 

A serene view of the Temple of Asclepius in the Villa Borghese gardens, Rome, reflected in a calm lake, framed by trees with a clear blue sky overhead.
View of the Temple of Asclepius at Villa Borghese Gardens in Rome

The gallery features an excellent collection of 20th-century Italian painters, including Giorgio de Chirico (a particular favorite), Amedeo Modigliani, Antonio Canova, Giacomo Balla, and Giorgio Morandi.

You’ll also find works by Rodin, Degas, van Gogh, Monet, Duchamp, Man Ray, and Pollock.

Unlike the Vatican and the other Renaissance and ancient Roman attractions of Rome, the National Gallery of Modern Art is sparsely attended and therefore extremely pleasant.

After your visit, stroll along the shaded pathways of the Borghese Gardens. 

National Gallery of Modern Art is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 9 am to 7 pm. The admission currently costs €10.

The very popular Borghese Gallery is close by. Here’s an option that inclues a guided tour with your tickets. The Borghese is well worth a visit, and houses one of my favorite Baroque sculptures by Bernini.

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Where to Stay in Rome

I favor staying in apartments when in Rome because I’m usually staying at least a week. Here are three of the apartments I’ve stayed in that provided excellent value in great locations:

Monti Apartments: This centrally located place is not far from the Colosseum and close to a charming old neighborhood with lots of small restaurants and quiet side streets. The apartment is spacious, well-equipped, and excellent value. Staff are on hand during the day and the apartment has an elevator.

Viam 16b Suites: I loved this place! It’s located on a tiny side street close to the Piazza del Popolo and the Spanish Steps in an upscale area of Rome. Unlike many apartments in Rome, the Viam 16b Suites is staffed during the day. Our suite included an outdoor terrace.


Saint-Paul-de-Vence, France: Fondation Maeght

The Fondation Maeght makes just about every list of must-see art museums in Europe. While not the largest modern art museum in Europe, the Maeght is one of the most respected and also the most beautifully situated.

The Maeght is near the charming village of Saint Paul-de-Vence, not far from Cannes and Nice in the south of France

A smiling woman in a blue dress and sunglasses stands near a black sculpture resembling an eye with a trident, by Joan Miró, surrounded by lush greenery and trees at the Fondation Maeght.
On the grounds of the fabulous Fondation Maeght in the south of France

I can’t say that every exhibition we’ve seen at the Fondation Maeght has been great. However, you still ought to visit if you’re in the area. When the exhibitions are good, they are extremely good.

The Fondation Maeght is a private foundation that was conceived and funded by Aimé and Marguerite Maeght to exhibit modern art. The Maeghts had several artist friends, including Georges Braque, Alexander Calder, Marc Chagall, Alberto Giacometti, Fernand Léger, and Joan Miró, who from the get-go donated or sold their work to the Foundation.

As Miró emphasized, the Fondation Maeght “…must before all be a place for art that remains alive.”

Visiting the Fondation Maeght

We first visited the Fondation Maeght in the 1990s during our first family trip to Europe with our young daughter. It was love at first sight!

Highlights include the giant sculptures by so many of the great 20th-century modern artists, including Miró, Giacometti, Arp, and Calder; spectacular views across the hills of the Riviera to the turquoise Mediterranean; and an airy modernist gallery. 

You can visit the Fondation Maeght on a tour, but you’d be best off spending at least a few nights exploring the area and visiting the Maeght for a few hours at the beginning or end of the day when the light is best for photography.  

Practical Information for the Fondation Maeght

Fondation Maeght is open daily from 10 am to 6 pm (July and Augusut to 7pm). The admission currently costs €18 for adults, €14 for youths (16 – 18), students, press and unemployed visitors. Children under 16 and disabled visitors are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.

Tour of Medieval Villages

If you don’t have a car, this tour of medieval villages that goes from Nice stops in Saint-Paul-de Vence for 1.5 hours, which is enough time for a flying visit to the Fondation Maeght.

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Where to Stay in Saint Paul-de-Vence

The village of Saint Paul-de-Vence has been well and truly discovered and accommodations there are not budget-friendly. Here are two options:

Le Hameau: Located in an 18th-century farmhouse with a view of the valley and the village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence, this place is close to the Fondation and includes a gorgeous pool

Hotel Marc-Hely: Located a few kilometers away in La Colle-sur-Loup, this comfortable hotel room included a balcony and very friendly properietors.


Venice, Italy: Peggy Guggenheim Collection

If I were to pick a favorite modern art museum from this Must-See list, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection in Venice would rank in the top three.

Located right smack on the Grand Canal in the Dorsoduro district of magical Venice between Santa Maria della Salute and the Gallerie dell’Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection just makes me smile. I can’t visit it often enough!

A woman posing beside a bronze sculpture of a stylized figure riding an animal, located in front of the Peggy Guggenheim Museum, which features ornate iron window grilles and stone steps.
Carol next to a statue of a horse in front of the Peggy
Guggenheim Museum in Venice.

The museum houses Peggy Guggenheim’s personal collection of 20th-century art, including masterpieces of cubism, surrealism, and abstract expressionism.

Gregg is a huge fan of Max Ernst, to whom Peggy was married for a time. Several of Ernst’s marvelous paintings are featured in the collection. Other artists in the permanent collection include Picasso, Kandinsky, Miró, Braque, Giacometti, Klee, Magritte, Dali, Pollock, de Chirico, Brancusi, Braque, Duchamp, and Mondrian.

It really is an embarrassment of 20th-century riches.

If you’re in Venice, take a break from the Renaissance and cross the canal to visit the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. Wander the cool halls of her renovated palazzo to view the paintings and sculptures, then descend the steps to the edge of the canal and watch the boats go by. 

A panoramic view of Venice's Grand Canal with historic buildings lining the waterway, boats navigating the canal, and the iconic dome of Santa Maria della Salute under a partly cloudy sky.
Venice panorama city skyline at Venice Grand Canal, Venice Italy

Practical Information for the Peggy Guggenheim Collection

Peggy Guggenheim Collection is open daily except Tuesdays from 10 am to 6 pm. The admission currently costs €16 for adults, €14 for seniors (70+), €9 for students under 26. Members and children under 10 are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.

Art Tour in the Dorsoduro

This private art and culture tour includes both the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and the wonderful collection of Venetian art at the Accademia.

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Where to Stay in Venice

Venice is expensive, but splurge and stay in a central area of this remarkable city rather than in nearby Mestre. Venice at night is the best. Streets that are thronged during the day become dark and empty and you’re bound to get lost on your back back to your accommodations. But you’re on an island and eventually you’ll find your way through alleyways that look like they haven’t changed in centuries, which is pretty much the case.

San Teodoro Palace: This one-bedroom apartment is huge by Venice standards and located steps from the Rialto Bridge in a very lively and touristy area.

Ca’ Mirò: Settle into this two-floor apartment in a quiet area of Venice not far from the train station and become a temporary Venetian. It’s gorgeous.

Another option if you’ve visited Venice before and are looking for some peace and quiet, is to stay on the island of Murano. I recently did just that. Here’s my post with recommendations for what to do and where to stay: Choose Murano For a Unique Venetian Experience


Louisiana Museum of Modern Art Near Copenhagen, Denmark

The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (#11 on the map at the top of this post) is about a 30-minute train ride north of Copenhagen. It’s world-renowned as one of Europe’s best modern art museums, and therefore a must-visit for the Artsy Traveler!

Check what exhibitions are on, but even if they don’t appeal, visit the museum anyway. It makes for a lovely morning out from Copenhagen. You reach it by train (covered by the Copenhagen Card) followed by a pleasant 20-minute stroll along a suburban road to the museum.

After visiting the exhibitions, head outside where the real stars of the museum are located.

A whimsical bronze sculpture of a rounded humanoid figure with oversized eyes, standing outdoors surrounded by trees and greenery.
Sculpture at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art near Copenhagen, Denmark

Practical Information for the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art

Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is open from 11 am to 10 pm on Tuesdays to Fridays and 11 am to 6 pm on Saturdays and Sundays. The admission currently costs DKK 145 for adults, DKK 125 for students. Louisiana members and youths under 18 are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.

Day Tour from Copenhagen

Here’s a private day tour to Louisiana Museum of Modern Art from Copenhagen with Viator, or on another day, consider this day trip from Copenhagen with GetYourGuide to three interesting destinatoins outside Copenhagen: Kronborg, Frederiksborg Castle and Roskilde:

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Where to Stay in Copenhagen

Here are two recommended places to stay in Copenhagen, both in the atmospheric Nyhavn area.

Sanders Haven: This huge apartment is one of the best places I’ve stayed anywhere in Europe (which is saying something). If it’s available, book it!

Phoenix Copenhagen: A stylishly upscale hotel in the Nyhavn area with friendly staff.


Tate St. Ives in Cornwall, England

The Tate St. Ives (#12) is a delightfully compact and easy-to-tour museum overlooking the sea in lovely little St. Ives. I visited on a recent trip to Cornwall, and was lucky to sit in on two curator talks about local artist Robert Lanyon. Here’s one of his pieces.

An abstract painting with swirling strokes of blue, red, white, and black hues, featuring bold, chaotic lines and textures in a wooden frame.
Lost Mine by Peter Lanyon

Practical Information for Tate St. Ives

Tate St. Ives is open daily from 10 am to 4:20 pm. The admission currently costs £13.50 and visitors aged under 18 is admitted free. The website has the latest rates.

Entry to the Barbara Hepworth Museum

A few minutes’ walk from the tate St. Ives is the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden. This place is well worth a visit if you’re a fan of world renowned sculptor Barbara Hepworth. Here’s a link to tickets to the site.

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Where to Stay in St. Ives

St. Ives is a popular holiday area in Cornwall. Here are two options with sea views:

Harbour Hotel & Spa St. Ives: An upscale choice with views across St. Ives Bay with elegant rooms.

Tregenna Castle Resort: Why not stay in a castle! This place is about a kilometer from St. Ives and overlooks the Cornish coast. It even has a heated indoor swimming pool and an outdoor seasonal heated swimming pool.

Sightseeing Tips

I highly recommend purchasing tickets ahead of time when you’re traveling in Europe. Major art museums are increasingly crowded, with long lines that sap your sightseeing energy. Who can enjoy art after standing for an hour under the hot sun waiting to buy tickets?

By purchasing your tickets in advance, you can enjoy a leisurely breakfast before strolling straight into the museum past the long lines of tourists who did not book ahead.

You’ll be sighing in front of some of the world’s great masterpieces in no time!

I keep all my tickets easily available on my phone which is why I use Tiqets.com, GetYourGuide, and Viator.

Conclusion

What are your favorite modern art museums in Europe? Share your suggestions and recommendations for fellow artsy travelers? Please share them in the Comments below.

Looking for more great art? Here are posts on a few more of my favorite art museums in Europe: