Rome, with its sumptuous churches, lively street scenes, and evocative Roman ruins, is a photographer’s dream destination.
Millions of visitors snap millions of photos every year, but if you want to learn how to take images that are well-framed, beautifully lit, and truly memorable, I recommend booking a photography tour in Rome with professional photographer Giulio d’Ercole of Rome Photo Fun Tours. His stunning photo of Castel Sant’Angelo in Rome is at the top of this post.
Giulio offers some of the best photo tours in Rome, from half-day and full-day city walks to multi-day photography adventures across Italy. His group tours are kept intentionally small (no more than four people), or you can opt for a private tour, which I did.
Giulio’s tours are open to everyone—from amateurs with a smartphone to serious photographers with professional gear. His tours are energetic, comprehensive, and packed full of valuable tips.
I recently joined Giulio on his Rome Churches, Angels, and Art Photo Tour, a 4-hour exploration that took me through seven of the city’s most photogenic churches and hidden corners. Armed only with my iPhone, I came away with sharper skills, a camera roll full of artistic shots, and a fresh perspective on Rome.
Full disclosure: While I paid for my tour with Giulio (money well spent!), I do receive a small commission if you click on any link to Giulio’s tour site and purchase a tour. Thank you!
📸 Photography Tour Itinerary: Rome Churches, Angels & Art Tour
Santa Maria Maggiore – Golden ceilings, pilgrims, and basilica grandeur
Santa Prassede – Byzantine mosaics
San Pietro in Vincoli – Michelangelo’s Moses
Santi Apostoli – Underground frescoes and hidden Christian history
Street Scenes & Ruins – Cobblestone alleys, ivy-draped balconies, and a taste of ancient Rome
Sant’Ignazio – Trompe l’oeil ceiling illusions and a year-round nativity scene
San Luigi dei Francesi – Caravaggio’s masterpieces
Sant’Agnese in Agone – Baroque ceilings on Piazza Navona
Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers – Sculptural storytelling
Why Take a Photography Tour in Rome?
A Rome photography tour is the perfect way to see the Eternal City through a new lens—literally. Instead of rushing from one monument to the next, you slow down, observe details, and learn techniques from a professional.
Here’s how my morning with Giulio played out, starting at 8:30 am in front of the church of Santa Maria Maggiore.
Santa Maria Maggiore
The crowds are already starting to swell at the security checkpoint when I arrive and meet up with Giulio d’Ercole, owner of Rome Photo Fun Tours.
It’s Jubilee year and a Saturday, so busloads of pilgrims have arrived from all around Italy. Many wear matching scarves printed with the name of their diocese.
Giulio leads me into the massive basilica and quickly gets down to business. He starts by showing me how to take a good picture of the stunning ceilings.
Giulio shares that he likes taking pictures of people and points out some church-related subject ideas such as pictures of people in the confessionals.
I’ve generally avoided taking pictures of people, so Giulio’s perspective is new to me. He tells me not to be shy, and over the course of the morning, I get bolder and snap a few candid shots of my own.
👉 Tip I Learned:Don’t be afraid to include people in your photos. Candid moments often bring a story to life.
Santa Prassede
We go next to Santa Prassade, a church that features several amazing Byzantine mosaics (my favorite kind!).
This church is less crowded, giving us more opportunities to compose pictures without jostling for position.
I learn “not to be lazy” and walk closer to a subject to take a picture of it rather than depending on the camera’s zoom feature to get a shot that lacks resolution.
Here are a few of my shots of the mosaics at Santa Prassade.
👉 Tip I Learned:Zoom with your feet. Walk closer to the subject for sharper, more detailed images.
San Pietro in Vincoli
We hop into Giulio’s car and drive over to San Pietro in Vincoli to see Michelangelo’s statue of Moses. Giulio explains how it was sculpted from one piece of marble and positioned to catch the light.
He talks about telling a story of a subject that takes the viewer from the whole subject to a series of closeups.
👉 Tip I Learned:Tell a visual story by moving from wide shots to close-ups. Create a narrative, not just a snapshot.
Outside the church, Giulio stops at one of Rome’s many water fountains called nasoni. I’ve heard of these, but never used them. He demonstrates how to get a drink and tells me how the city began installing them in the 1870s to provide a free and public water supply.
Here’s Giulio demonstrating how to get a drink from a nasoni.
Santimissimi Apostoli
This church is my favorite of the seven churches we visit. It is built over an early Christian church that includes many remarkable Roman-style frescoes. We descend below the altar and have the shadowy hallways and chapels of the early church to ourselves.
While I take pictures of the Roman-era paintings, I enjoy listening to the orchestra that is rehearsing in the main church above us.
Thanks to Giulio’s example, I am learning how to look for new and different perspectives, and so snap this photo of the cello cases lined up alongside the pews.
👉 Tip I Learned:Look for unusual perspectives and contrasts—details often tell the most powerful stories.
Street Scenes and Roman Ruins
On our way between churches, we veer down some lovely cobbled streets that hint at what Rome used to be like before so many of the buildings were turned into tourist apartments.
Giulio shares how Rome now is very different from the Rome he knew growing up in the 1970s.
Meanwhile, I’m learning to ‘not be shy’ and snap a candid photo of a priest walking down the street.
Millions of visitors are taking a toll on Rome’s communities. Many businesses have closed over the years and families moved out to make way for short term rental apartments, souvenir stores, and restaurants. Even so, Rome’s side streets are still magical. One minute you can be part of a throng of tourists streaming across the cobblestones, and the next you’re completely alone on a narrow street that looks like it hasn’t changed in centuries.
We pause to take pictures of buildings draped in greenery.
👉 Tip I Learned:Don’t just shoot monuments. Capture the everyday street details that give a city its soul.
We emerge on to the Via dei Fori Imperiali and while we walk past Roman ruins, Giulio shares his extensive knowledge of Roman history, particularly the rise (and fall) of fascism in the 20th century and Mussolini’s attempts to bring Rome’s glorious past into the present.
Sant’Ignazio
Giulio sets a brisk pace and soon we’re off again to the next church—Sant Ignazio. This is one of Rome’s more popular churches and is therefore quite crowded.
One of the attractions is the remarkable Baroque ceiling. Giulio points out the trompe l’oeil effects and explains how the black dome that looks like a dome at the beginning of the nave is shown to be flat-painted when we move to the center of the church.
We retreat to the quieter side chapels where Giulio encourages me to explore how light hits statues and to focus on only one or two elements.
San Luigi dei Francesi
I am looking forward to checking out the famous trio of Caravaggio paintings in San Luigi dei Francesi. With the morning well advanced, the crowds have increased considerably and I need to wait my turn to get a shot.
The light is too glaring on the central figure, but I manage to take a few photos, including this one. which is my favorite of the three paintings.
I’ve seen quite a few Caravaggios during my visits to Rome (most notably at the Museo Borghese) and have grown to appreciate Caravaggio’s use of light, the movement he imbues his figures with, and his depiction of everyday people instead of idealized figures.
Sant’Agnese in Agone & Piazza Navona
Our final stop is Sant’Agnese in Agone, where Giulio once again has me look up to capture the magnificent ceiling details.
We end a wonderful (and packed) morning by circumnavigating Bernini’s famous Four Rivers fountain in Piazza Navona. Giulio stops at each of the four statues and unravels the many clues that Bernini sculpted into the statues to indicate which river each statue represents. I learn that only the statue representing Europe has its face turned to the viewer.
I snap pictures of the blinding white marble against a very blue Roman sky.
Practical Details for Your Rome Photography Tour
Here’s what to expect when you take a photography tour with Rome Photo Fun Tours.
Length: 4 hours
Pace: Brisk—expect thousands of steps
Group size: Max 4 people
Skill level: Beginners to advanced
Equipment: DSLR, mirrorless, or smartphone all welcome
Insider tip: Don’t zoom—step closer to your subject for clarity
Final Thoughts
My Rome photography tour with Giulio was intense, inspiring, and absolutely worth it. I walked thousands of steps, took dozens of photos, and most importantly, learned how to see Rome differently.
Whether you’re a serious photographer with advanced gear or an iPhone shooter like me, this is one of the best photography experiences in Rome. Giulio adapts his instructions to every skill level and makes sure you leave with sharper skills and memorable images.
✨ If you’re planning a trip to Rome, don’t just take photos—learn how to make them unforgettable. Book a photography tour in Rome and capture the Eternal City through an artist’s lens.
The small city of Piacenza in the Emilia-Romana region of northern Italy is the perfect place for travelers looking for a bit of peace and quiet. Think of a stay here as a vacation from your vacation.
If you love hordes of tourists, tacky souvenir shops, exhausted locals, and cardboard food, don’t come to Piacenza. If, on the other hand, you’re looking for empty cobbled streets, zero tourists, friendly locals, and excellent food, then Piacenza is a great place to spend two or three nights.
That’s enough time to settle in, soak up the atmosphere, visit museums, and stroll without purpose. The centre (“centro storico”) is compact and largely traffic-free (especially inside the ZTL). Staying there means you can walk almost everywhere.
My Experience in Piacenza
I’ve never visited a European city that required so little effort to enjoy as Piacenza. The museums I visited were interesting, but not world-class block busters; the public buildings are attractive but not iconic; and there are no must-see sites which means, as mentioned earlier, there are very few tourists.
I stayed in Piacenza for four full days and five nights and I never once ran into another English-speaking visitor. I noticed a few Europeans tourists wandering around, guidebooks in hand, and a few with walking sticks doing the via Francigena Camino, but that was about it.
While most of the shopkeepers and restaurants workers I encountered spoke little English, all were friendly and helpful and made me feel welcome.
Where to Stay in Piacenza
I recommend staying right in the centro so you can feel like a temporary local. I stayed in an apartment in the Palazzina Scotti, and it was perfect. The price was reasonable, the place was beautifully renovated, and the location, about eight minutes walk from the Piazza Cavalli, was ideal.
Here are some other options:
The Heart of Piacenza: Piazza Cavalli & More
The central piazza in Piacenza is Piazza Cavalli, dominated by two impressive bronze horse statues (by Francesco Mochi and Pietro Tacca) that mark the power and legacy of the Farnese family.
Around the square are stately palazzi, shops, and cafés with outdoor tables that are great places for hanging out and people-watching, reading, or simply absorbing the rhythm of daily life in the city.
Early morning or late afternoon light brings out warm tones in the façades; midday, shade under awnings and the sound of church bells. This piazza is the living room of Piacenza: elegant, relaxed, and welcoming.
Museums in Piacenza
From Piazza Cavalli you can stroll to the duomo, narrow lanes, hidden courtyards, and eventually reach the two major museums: the Musei Civici di Palazzo Farnese and the Galleria d’arte moderna Ricci Oddi. Both are easy to walk to from the centre.
Musei Civici di Palazzo Farnese
A grand palace turned multi-museums under one roof, Palazzo Farnese houses several thematic collections including archaeology, medieval & Renaissance art, carriages, Risorgimento history, and decorative arts.
You’ll pretty much have the place to yourself. Wander from room to room, enjoying the well-presented exhibits with explanations in both Italian and English. Here are some of my favorite areas of the museum.
Archeological Museum
This was my favorite part of the Musei Civica di Palazzo Farnes. There is an extensive collection of Roman and Etruscan artifacts in several dimly lit rooms.
The Liver of Piacenza
In a special room is displayed an incredibly well-preserved model of an Etruscan divinatory liver AKA the Liver of Piacenza. Discovered in 1877 near Piacenza, this bronze model of a sheep’s liver dates from the 1st-2nd century BC.
The liver of Piacenza was used to teach a person who wished to become a harupsex (a diviner) how to inspect the entrails of sacrificed animals to divine the will of the gods. The model shows how specific sections of the liver corresponded to different gods and celestial regions.
It’s incredibly detailed and in amazing shape considering its age.
Ancient Glassware
I also loved the selection of glass objects dating from Roman times. I still can’t believe that something so delicate as glass has lasted for over 2000 years, but I’ve seen examples of glass from Roman times in the glass museum in Murano and the Archeological Museum in Naples, to name just two museums of many.
Medieval Frescoes
The museum includes a striking collection of medieval frescoes that have been detached from churches in and around Piacenza. I have a soft spot for medieval frescoes, and the collection at this museum is quite extensive with many well-preserved frescoes.
Carriage Museum
Don’t miss the wonderful collection of old carriages that fills several vaulted rooms below ground. Encouraged by the enthusiastic guard, we strolled past carriages from the 18th and19th centuries.
My great-grandfather was a coachman in Devon, England, so I was particularly interested in the coaches from the late 1880s.
Also included in the museum is the Risorgimento collections consisting of uniforms, documents, and publications from mid-19th century Italy when the country was moving toward unification.
You’ll also find displays of weapons from earlier centuries, decorative arts (glass and ceramics), and paintings that show off the Farnese wealth.
Practical Information
Hours: Tuesday through Friday 10:00-13:00 and 15:00-18:00; Saturday & Sunday 10:00-18:00; closed Monday.
Admission: Full ticket €10. Reduced €7
Galleria d’arte moderna Ricci Oddi
The Ricci Oddi gallery is an airy and peaceful art oasis near the centro that’s worth an hour or two of your time.
Founded by Giuseppe Ricci Oddi in the early 20th century, the gallery’s collection spans mostly Italian painters of the 19th and early 20th centuries, with some international works.
You won’t find any blockbuster paintings here apart from a painting by Klimt, but you will find a comprehensive and beautifully displayed collection spread across several large and uncrowded rooms.
I enjoyed the opportunity to discover many new-to-me artists.
Highlights of Galleria d’arte modern Ricci Oddi
The most famous painting in the gallery is “Portrait of a Lady” by Gustav Klimt, which was stolen in 1997 and recovered in 2019. It’s a stunner, to be sure. Check out the way in which Klimt captures the gauziness of the figure’s shawl.
This gorgeous, light-drenched painting by Amedeo Bocchi is called La Colazione Del Mattino (Breakfast in the Morning) and was painted in 1919.
The collection includes quite a few interesting portraits, with this one by Giacomo Grosso particularly arresting. Check out the loose brush strokes and the compelling eyes of the model. The painting is called Occhi Neri (“Black Eyes”) and was painted in 1895.
The collection also includes several excellent seascapes and landscapes. I was attracted to the sunny waves depicted in this painting by Giorgio Belloni called Mareggiata. A date was not specified, but since the artist died in 1944, I’m guessing the painting was done around 1900.
Practical Information
Hours: Closed Monday. Tuesday-Thursday: 9:30-13:00. Friday-Sunday: 9:30-18:00. Note: some mornings only; Friday onward includes afternoon hours.
Admission: Full price €9.00; reduced €5.00; schools €3.00.
How to Schedule Your Museum Visits
You could visit the Farnese in a morning (say 10:00-13:00) and then have lunch. In the afternoon, go to Ricci Oddi. You can book guided tours or check when free guided tours are offered (often weekends).
Here’s a guide to Piacenza you can download through GetYourGuide
The Iron Gates of Piacenza
For me, one of the highlights of my four full days in Piacenza was strolling around and snapping photos of the many gorgeous iron gates that guarded almost every every building in the centro, including the building I stayed in.
Every gate was different and many fronted beautiful courtyards with gardens that were tantalizingly glimpsed from the street.
Here’s a selection of some of the many gates I photographed.
Three Good Restaurants in the Centro
Here are three highly recommended places in the centro storico of Piacenza, where you’ll get good food, atmosphere, good service.
Name
What to Expect & Why It’s Good
Tre Ganasce
An Italian restaurant with strong local flavor: antipasti, meats, specialties of the Piacenza region. Friendly service, generous portions. A favorite with locals and visitors alike.
Antica Trattoria dell’Angelo
Family-run, authentic. Traditional Piacentine dishes like agnolotti in brodo, perhaps horse meat (depending on season/menu), local pastas and mains. Good value.
Trattoria La Forchetta
More casual, great for lunch or dinner without fuss. The pasta is good, service friendly, portions satisfying. If you want unpretentious but excellent food in the centre, this is a safe choice.
Conclusion
Have you visited Piacenza? Share your suggestions for other artsy travelers in the Comments below.
Here are some more posts about some of the lesser visited (but still awesome) Italian cities:
Looking for a creative retreat in Tuscany where you can focus on your art or writing in peace? Then consider booking a week’s stay at Casale di Clio, an 18th century village house located in tiny Vetteglia, about an hour’s drive north of Lucca.
Here, you’ll find stunning views, cozy rooms, and inspiring spaces designed to inspire writers, painters, and poets.
I spent a week at Casale di Clio working on my novel while my husband, artist Gregg Simpson, painted in the “art barn.” The peaceful, jaw-droppingly gorgeous surroundings are exceedingly conducive to contemplative creative work.
We both left feeling energized, productive, and deeply inspired by this magical corner of Italy. And no wonder! Look at the view I gazed at while writing in my top floor room.
Highlights: My Stay at Casale di Clio
The Setting – Casale di Clio
In the charming village of Vetteglia—founded in Roman times—Casale di Clio offers breathtaking views of valleys and mountains. The retreat is run by Adrian, from Devon, and his Italian wife Tiziana (Tizi), who live in part of their thoughtfully renovated stone house.
Four guest rooms, each with a desk, are reserved for artists and writers. Three of these have their own ensuite facilities, and a fourth uses a bathroom a short way along the corridor. Guests also share a kitchen, dining room, library, balcony and terrace, plus the newly renovated “art barn” and are welcome to use the garden, where chairs and a sunshade are available.
Daily Rhythm
My week was a productive mix of writing, walking, and soaking in the atmosphere. Mornings at my desk with a view of the Tuscan hills stretching out before me led to some productive writing stints.
Afternoons meant terrace breaks, library time, and woodland walks to nearby villages. Gregg worked happily in the art barn, spreading out his supplies in a space designed for creating art.
Meals were a pleasure: cooking with ingredients from Tizi’s garden and the village shop, or joining Adrian and Tizi for homemade dinners. We also enjoyed excursions to Bagni di Lucca—once a favorite spa town of Mary and Percy Bysshe Shelley, Byron, and the Brownings.
The Experience
The week wasn’t just about word counts—although I did manage to write over 10,000 words. It was about reconnecting with my work in progress, finding clarity, and even weathering a rainy-day writing crisis with the misty Tuscan hills for company. Gregg declared the art barn the best studio he’s ever had, and I found myself more focused and inspired than at any other point in our European travels.
Final Thoughts
Casale di Clio is not a vacation spot—it’s a creative retreat designed to give writers, painters, and poets the space to work in extraordinary surroundings.
If you’re looking to escape distractions, breathe in mountain air, and invite the muse to visit, this Tuscan haven may be exactly what you need.
Full Journal: Day by Day at Casale di Clio
Saturday, September 6, 2025
After a twisty, turny drive up to the village of Vetteglia, we veer down a narrow road and park near an ancient chapel below Casale di Clio. Adrian bounds down the hill to greet us, then cheerfully hauls our luggage up to the house in a wheelbarrow.
Here’s the view up from where we parked the car to the Casale di Clio. My room’s the middle one.
Casale di Clio does not accommodate couples in one room, preferring to rent rooms to individuals. Gregg is in the Galileo room and I’m next door in Hildegard. Each room has a desk, cupboard, double bed, and small ensuite bathroom with a shower and toilet. Just steps away is another bathroom equipped with a large bath.
But we are not confined to our rooms! Retreat guests also have the run of the ground floor, which includes a kitchen, dining room, living room, library, and terrace. There are lots of places to work.
Living roomLibraryKitchenDining room
Gregg and I get settled, and then Adrian takes me and the other guest for a walk around Vetteglia and the surrounding countryside. Adrian tells us the village is home to about fifty people, including a few expats, some holiday homes, an Airbnb, and several Italian families with young children.
Here’s the view from the main square, which is actually just an overlook with space for a few cars to park.
We descend below the village to Adrian and Tizi’s large vegetable plot, enclosed by a mildly electrified fence to stop wild boars. Apparently, it doesn’t stop porcupines, which manage to do some damage.
Adrian and Tizi grow squash, cabbages, tomatoes, potatoes, and other crops. I sample a handful of cherry tomatoes the next morning—delicious.
Below the plot is a hillside that’s also part of the property and available as a place to bring a chair and commune with nature while writing, painting, or just thinking. The views are spectacular!
After our walk, I set up my computer and get to work. By the time Adrian calls us to a welcome aperitif before dinner, I’ve knocked out 900 words—a big win for me!
For most of the five weeks we’ve been in Europe in the fall of 2025, I’ve been lucky to manage 300 words in a day. I’m determined to buckle down this week at Casale di Clio and get a solid 10,000 words written.
I’m working on the first draft of a new novel, which is always the most challenging part of the writing process for me. Like many writers (perhaps most!), I don’t particularly love writing—but I love having written.
Gregg and I meet Adrian and Tizi on the terrace for a festive glass of prosecco and some nibblies. The third guest is tired and chooses not to join us.
We launch into a lively conversation and quickly discover common ground. Adrian shares his love of sports cars with Gregg, a fellow enthusiast, and tells me about the historical novel he’s planning to write. Who knew that the host of this writing/art retreat is also a historical novelist?
Tizi serves a tasty lasagna dinner followed by homemade fig pie with ice cream.
The welcome dinner is included in the seven-day retreat price. For the rest of the week, we have full access to the well-equipped kitchen and can also pay extra to have dinner cooked for us. I tell Tizi we’ll eat with them on Wednesday.
After dinner, Gregg returns to the art barn while I pound out a few more words and attend to email. The Wi-Fi is thankfully strong throughout the house—a relief after four days near Lake Garda at a place without Wi-Fi in our room.
Sunday, September 7, 2025
I wake early on our first full day at Casale di Clio, make myself a coffee, and settle on the terrace for a phone call with our daughter back in Canada. By 8:30 am, I’m back in my room and at my desk.
My goal is to write 2,000 words in one day—a lot for me. I’ve heard of writers cranking out many more, but I’ve learned to let go of envy. Writing is deeply personal: what works for one writer doesn’t work for another.
By eleven, the sun pouring into my room is too hot for me to continue. I pull the wooden shutters closed and go outside for a short walk. At every turn is a new vista, a new photograph, a new idea. I can see why Adrian and Tizi chose this place to live in and share as a retreat.
I make myself an early lunch and spend the afternoon roaming from room to room, terrace to terrace—writing, reading, and thinking. By mid-afternoon, I’ve passed the 1,000 word mark.
In the small library, I spread out research books on Van Gogh and his time in Arles. The first part of my novel is set in 1888 in Arles and features both Van Gogh and Gauguin, although the story is not about them.
By 6 pm, I venture out for a longer walk. Paths wind through the forest and across the hills. The afternoon light casts deep shadows across the Tuscan landscape, and I give myself over to the magic of this stunning area.
A brisk 20-minute walk takes me to a crossroads. I choose the far-left road and eventually end up in San Gemignano, the closest town to Vetteglia, where we’ll shop on Monday. Vetteglia itself doesn’t have any stores.
Back at Casale di Clio, I cook lemon-buffalo stuffed pasta with cacio e pepe sauce, plus a salad and tomatoes from Tizi’s garden. After dinner, I return to my desk and finally hit my 2,000-word goal.
Monday, September 8, 2025
I’m at my desk by 8:30 am and manage 1,000 words before breaking at 11 to walk with Tizi to San Gemignano.
She takes me through the woods along a track that likely dates back to Roman times. Tizi explains that Vetteglia was founded by a retired centurion who was given the land as payment for his military service. The path is steep and rocky but beautiful and very peaceful.
At the village shop, I stock up on food, including sausages for dinner. I walk back along the road. It’s a less charming route, but easier when laden with groceries.
The afternoon is low-key—reading, resting, and research—but by 4 pm, I’m back to work and produce another 1,000 words.
Gregg is equally happy: the art barn gives him space to spread out and work.
Tuesday, September 9, 2025
Rain and thunder roll in overnight. A rainy day for a writer is the best kind—but instead of cranking out more words, I waste the morning tumbling into research rabbit holes and existential doubt.
I at least take a break to film the cacophony of swallows swirling through the sky in front of my window. I learn later that they are having one last swoop through the village before winging off to Africa for the winter.
By day’s end, I’ve written zero words. Instead of beating myself up, I publish an Artsy Traveler blog post, answer emails, and Zoom with a potential publicist for my next novel, The Choir (coming February 2026).
Days like this happen despite the best of intentions. At least if I must have a writing crisis, Casale di Clio is a beautiful place to have one.
Wednesday, September 10, 2025
The rain lingers, but I’m refreshed. I spend the morning rethinking my novel’s plot and purpose. It’s hard work but necessary.
At noon, Gregg and I drive down to Bagni di Lucca, once a fashionable spa town. Mary Shelley edited Frankenstein here, and later the Brownings stayed by the river, where Robert proposed to Elizabeth. Literary history lives in these hills.
Back at Casale di Clio, Tizi serves us a dinner of risotto with courgettes and freshly foraged porcini mushrooms. I’ve never tasted mushrooms so good.
Thursday, September 11, 2025
The morning is productive, but our attempt at finding lunch in San Cassiano goes awry. We can’t find a restaurant, so we keep driving. The SatNav goes out, but fortunately the road winds down into the valley and back to Bagni di Lucca.
We settle at an outdoor cafe for lunch, where we’re joined by a busload of Yorkshire tourists. I enjoy listening to their accents (The Choir is set in Yorkshire in the 1890s). After drinking a cappuccino and buying a few groceries, we head back up the narrow, hair-raising road to Vetteglia.
We spend the rest of the day in our respective work spaces. I make more progress with my novel and feel like I just might see a few glimmers of light at the end of the tunnel. Can I sustain it? I hope!
Friday, September 12, 2025
I fill my last full day with writing and blogging. At noon, I walk to San Gemingnano and buy fresh porcini mushrooms from the village shop. Cooked in butter and olive oil and accompanied by a slice of fresh focaccia, they make a divine lunch.
In the evening, Adrian and Tizi drive us down to Bagni di Lucca for a farewell celebration—aperitifs at Café Italia followed by pizza. Thankfully, Tizi drives us safely back up the twisting road in the dark.
Here’s an admittedly doctored shot of Adrian and Tizi that I snapped in Bagni di Lucca and then put in front of a view of the Tuscan countryside.
Saturday, September 13, 2025
Final clean-up, final check for belongings, heartfelt goodbyes—and we’re off to the next adventure.
If you’re looking for a place to tune out the world and focus on a creative project in spectacular surroundings, Casale di Clio may be just the thing. Find out more information on their website.
Conclusion
Have you participated in a writing or art retreat? Share your experiences with other artsy travelers in the comments below. Here is a post I wrote about an art workshop with Italiana Tours:
Thirteen people gather under the Italian sun for a week of drawing, painting, and soaking up the beauty of Le Marche—a drop-dead gorgeous and under-touristed region that invites exploration and jump-starts the imagination.
I’ve been invited to sit in for a day at the Italian Sketchbook Retreat, run by Italiana Tours.
Under the direction of Australian artist Rod Moore, I hope to flex my drawing muscles—and maybe even conquer my fear of the blank page.
I can’t wait!
Arrival at Il Parco Ducale
I arrive a few hours before the rest of the group and settle in at Il Parco Ducale, the retreat’s base. This beautiful old palazzo boasts brick arches, foot-thick walls, and heavy wooden beams. There’s also a swimming pool, and the town of Urbania, with its charming medieval center, is just a short walk away.
The palazzo is next door to the summer residence of the Duke of Urbino, built in the late 15th century. The magnificent Renaissance palace provides a dramatic backdrop for the art classes, while the surrounding landscape looks as though it’s been lifted straight out of a Renaissance painting. Add a few robed figures in the foreground, and you’d swear that time has stood still.
What is Italiana Tours?
Italiana Tours was founded about ten years ago by Piero and Katie Pagliardini to offer custom art tours and retreats, primarily in Le Marche and Puglia. Piero, a local expert, grew up in Le Marche, where he developed a passion for nature, hospitality and art workshops in Italy. Together with the travel coordinator, Alex, they have been crafting tours all over Italy.
Each retreat is led by a renowned artist. The retreat I’m sitting in on is led by Rod Moore, the star of two Australian TV programs—Plein Air Painting TV and Yes, You Can Paint—and founder of the online Learn To Paint Academy.
Our First Evening
By six o’clock, the group has arrived. Together, we ride into Urbania for a wine tasting and pizza dinner.
At a cozy trattoria, we gather at one long table. The noise level quickly rises as people swap “Where are you froms?”
We’re a truly international mix, with participants from Australia, Belgium, the U.S., India, and me from Canada.
We sample three local wines—a sparkling, a white, and a red—all from Le Marche region. Afterward, we stroll through the quiet town, past arcaded buildings, to a pizzeria.
My All’Amatriciana pizza is spicy and delicious, paired with another red wine. Dessert brings four digestifs, including the ever-popular limoncello, served ice-cold.
Piero Pagliardini, host of Italiana Tours
My Day at the Italian Sketchbook Retreat
After breakfast the next morning, we assemble in the large breakfast room where tables are arranged in a U-shape. Rod leads us through warm-up exercises to prepare us for sketching en plein air later in the day.
I lose myself in drawing lines, experimenting with cross-hatching and stippling (new to me!), and studying values from dark to light.
Rod introduces us to the Rule of 6—breaking any scene into six basic shapes to capture the “big picture” before layering in details.
So we can practice breaking scenes into six parts, Rod has provided us with hundreds of reference photos on Dropbox. He also encourages us to use our own photos if we wish.
I flip through my photos and choose a quiet canal scene that I took on a recent trip to Venice to break into six shapes. It’s surprisingly challenging, and I quickly realize why the exercise is a valuable one for developing drawing skills.
The atmosphere is both relaxed and productive. Rod circulates, offering encouragement and practical suggestions. His teaching style is warm and approachable.
Afternoon Excursion
After lunch, we hop on the bus into Urbania for a visit to the Chiesa dei Morti. Excursions are part of the daily rhythm here. During the week, participants will visit the market in Urbania and Raphael’s childhood home in Urbino, and take a cooking class at a 12th-century mill.
I won’t spoil the surprise of what we found in the crypt of the Chiesa dei Morti—but trust me, it’s unforgettable.
While in Urbania, we stop to admire a view of the palace where the Duke of Urbino stayed when he was in town. Later in the week, the group will go to this location to do some plein air painting.
The Retreat Participants
Our group is a mix of retirees and mid-career professionals, some returning for their fifth retreat with Italiana Tours. That loyalty says a lot about the value of these retreats.
Some participants are Rod’s students, both in-person or online, while others are newcomers eager to learn. The retreat welcomes both painters and non-painters, with special outings for those not attending the classes. Here are some of the participants I got to know:
Tim and Carol, from North Carolina, are seasoned travelers. While Tim paints, Carol joins the non-painting excursions.
Rohit, from New Delhi, is one of Rod’s online students and has come for his first in-person workshop.
Marie is on her fifth Italiana Tours retreat, having attended in both Le Marche and Puglia.
Charles, a fellow novelist, is attending his fifth retreat as well, though it’s his first time painting.
Beeb from Australia is attending the retreat after spending five months in Europe, during which she walked the 900-kilometer Camino di Santiago.
Hans from Belgium is attending for the first time, hoping to develop his painting skills as he moves into retirement.
Several more of the participants tell me they’ve come because they know Rod’s work The group bonds quickly over shared meals, travel stories, and artistic discoveries.
Plein Air Sketching
In the afternoon, I attempt my first plein air sketch. Nervous at first, I watch as Rod demonstrates, sketching the six “big shapes” of a building at Il Parco Ducale with confident pen strokes, and then filling details.
When it’s my turn, my first drawing of the ducal palace flops. But with Rod’s good-humored encouragement, I try again, this time choosing a simpler subject.
To my surprise—I love it. The act of sketching outdoors, surrounded by such a timeless landscape, rekindles my long-lost interest in drawing. After just one day, I feel inspired to keep sketching (and maybe even start painting again).
Looking Ahead: Upcoming Italiana Tours
Piero and his team host around ten workshops a year, divided between Le Marche, Puglia, and Sicily. The retreats fill quickly, so if you’re looking for an artsy traveler’s dream week of creativity, food, and exploration, check out the Italiana Tours website.
Four of our thirteen participants came as non-artists, happily joining Piero’s curated outings—proof that these tours truly offer something for everyone.
✨ Takeaway: One day at the Italian Sketchbook Retreat was enough to fire up my creativity, reconnect me with my love of drawing, and remind me that sometimes the best artsy traveler souvenirs are the ones you sketch yourself.
Here are some more posts about artsy activities you can explore while traveling:
The laid-back island of Murano is the perfect getaway if you’re pining for a relaxing day or two away from the seething masses clogging the narrow streets of Venice.
I’ve stayed in Venice several times over the years and with every trip, the crowds and the prices increase. It’s all becoming just a bit much.
So, if you’re visiting Venice for several days, consider spending at least one or two nights on Murano. Or, if you’ve visited Venice before, why not bypass its expensive hotels and rip-off restaurants altogether and stay only on Murano?
You can easily zip into Venice for a stroll and a visit to some of the major sites.
Day Trip Instead?
Yes, you can go to Murano a day trip, but you’ll find the center of Murano crowded during the day with people browsing the numerous glass shops. When you stay the night, you’ll have the streets all to yourself in the evening and morning.
What I Did
On my latest trip to Venice, I stayed for two nights and one full day on Murano. I took the vaporetto into Venice for the afternoon and evening of the first night.
I highly recommend the experience!
Getting to Murano from the Airport
Murano is one of the easiest Venetian islands to reach directly from Venice Marco Polo Airport. After deplaning, take what feels like an endless number of moving sidewalks to the dock (just follow the signs).
From there, buy a ticket from one of the machines and then hop on the Alilaguna Blue Line waterbus. In about 30–35 minutes, you’ll be stepping off at Colosseo, one of the waterbus stops on Murano.
Where to Stay
I stayed at the Hyatt Centric Murano Venice, and it was an excellent choice. Located on the waterfront at the Museo vaporetto stop, the Hyatt Centric combines modern comfort with easy access to the rest of the island.
Another plus? The hotel offers a shuttle boat to and from Marco Polo Airport for a reasonable price (much cheaper than a water taxi). Contact the hotel a few days before your stay to reserve your spot on one of their scheduled runs.
My Experience: Because our flight into Venice was to arrive three hours before the first available shuttle time, we took the Alilaguna Blue Line water bus to the Colosseo stop on Murano. The Murano Hyatt Centric is located opposite the Museo stop, a good twenty minutes walk along cobbled streets (not great for dragging suitcases!).
On the way back to the airport, we wisely took the shuttle, which picked us up at the dock in front of the hotel and zoomed us across the lagoon, spray flying. An exhilarating experience!
Here are some other options for staying on Murano:
Evening in Venice
After settling into your hotel on Murano, hop on Vaporetto Line 4.1 or 4.2, and in about 15 minutes you’ll be at Fondamente Nove, ready to wander the city in the golden twilight.
Evenings in Venice are magical. The streets are much less crowded with all the day-trippers gone back to their cruise ships. Stroll through quiet campos, linger over cicchetti (Venetian tapas) in a bacaro, and then enjoy a romantic dinner alongside a canal.
Here are some pictures I snapped of our early evening stroll through Venice.
Returning to Murano from Venice
Catch Vaporetto Line 4.1 or 4.2 from Fondamente Nove for the return trip. You’ll pass by Isola di San Michele that contains Venice’s principal cemetery glowing eerily in the setting sun. Several famous people are buried there, including composer Igor Stravinsky and poet Ezra Pound.
Full Day on Murano
We opted to spend the entire day on Murano rather than going back into Venice. Good choice! I thoroughly enjoyed the opportunity to soak up Murano’s more tranquil, small-town rhythm, and explore some out-of-the-way areas where the only sounds were the wind in the trees and the sound of the cicadas.
Morning: Glass-Blowing Demonstration
I suggest attending a glass-blowing demonstration as soon as one of the many furnaces offering them opens. You’ll beat the crowds and get a great view of a master glassmaker work his magic with molten globs of glass.
Here are some options with GetYourGuide.
At the end of the short demo, you’ll be directed into the shop where you can admire some incredible pieces that would cost a fortune to ship home, and probably purchase some items that you can take with you. I picked up two necklaces!
More Shopping for Glass
Murano is full of glass shops—both those attached to furnaces offering demos and the many shops lining the two principal canals. You can’t miss them!
Avoid the “five-for-€10” trinket stands that sell imported, not genuine Murano glass.
Good choices are Venini for contemporary art glass, Wave Murano Glass for bold and colorful designs, and NasonMoretti for sleek tableware. Even if you’re not in the market for a chandelier, you’ll leave with a deeper appreciation for the craftsmanship.
Lunch Next to the Canal
Stop for lunch at Osteria al Duomo, tucked just behind Murano’s main street. Their seafood pasta is fresh and flavorful, and the garden seating is a leafy oasis in warm weather.
Afternoon: Explore the Island
Spend the afternoon wandering Murano’s quieter backstreets. Peek into the Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato, famous for its Byzantine mosaics and the curious row of dragon bones hanging behind the altar.
Visit Murano Glass Museum
Make sure you allow time to visit the Murano Glass Museum (Museo del Vetro) to learn more about the island’s glass-making history and see exquisite historical pieces.
After entering the museum (a former palace), check out the tranquil gardens and then watch a film about glass making. A wide variety of techniques are described and demonstrated. I was riveted!
After the film, check out the archaeological section on the ground floor that contains Roman works dating from the 1st to the 3rd century AD. Then, mount the stairs to the first floor to view the largest historical collection of Murano glass in the world.
Take a Walk
Murano is small—you can walk across it in about 20 minutes. Take your time and veer off the main canals to explore areas where only locals go.
I walked to the far end of the island to find quiet canals, abundant greenery and a handful of local people working on their boats.
Evening: Dinner on Murano
For dinner, try B Restaurant alla Vecchia Pescheria, a cozy spot right on the canal with excellent Venetian classics and a good wine list.
Afterward, stroll alongside the lagoon to enjoy a spectacular sunset (weather permitting).
An Art Opening on Murano
One of the reasons I stayed on Murano during my most recent trip to Venice was that I was attending an art opening that featured Gregg Simpson’s work. (Gregg’s my husband and a visual artist; we often travel to his exhibitions).
The opening was at the municipal museum which featured Gregg’s work in addition to displays about the history of Murano. Housed in the Palazzo da Mula, entrance is free and well worth a quick look both to view whatever art exhibitions are on and to see the history displays.
Murano: Two Nights & One Full Day – At a Glance
Arrival & Evening in Venice
From the airport: Take the Alilaguna Blue Line waterbus (30–35 min) straight to Murano.
Evening: Vaporetto to Venice for cicchetti, a relaxed dinner, and post-sunset strolling. Return to Murano under the stars.
Full Day on Murano
Morning: Glass-blowing demo at a local furnace – arrive early before tour groups.
Shopping: Skip the cheap imports; head for Venini, Wave Murano Glass, or NasonMoretti for authentic art glass.
Lunch:Osteria al Duomo – seafood pasta in a shady garden.
Afternoon:
Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato – Byzantine mosaics & “dragon bones”
Murano Glass Museum – centuries of glass history
Stroll the Fondamenta dei Vetrai and back alleys.
Evening: Dinner at B Restaurant alla Vecchia Pescheria, canal-side with Venetian classics.
Departure
Enjoy a peaceful early-morning walk along the canals before catching your vaporetto or water taxi back to Venice or the airport.
Top Tips for Visiting Murano
Buy wisely: Look for the “Vetro Artistico® Murano” certification sticker to ensure authenticity.
Ship it: If buying a larger piece, most reputable shops will pack and ship it securely—worth the cost to avoid heartbreak in your suitcase.
Timing is everything: Stay overnight to enjoy Murano’s peaceful mornings and evenings, when the day-trippers are gone.
Hydrate & shade: Glass furnaces get hot—visit in the morning and bring water.
Ask questions: Artisans love to explain their techniques; showing interest can lead to extra demos or discounts.
Conclusion
By staying overnight, you experience Murano at its best—quiet mornings when you’re the only person strolling along the canals, evenings when the water reflects only the soft glow of lamplight, and a sense of living within a working Venetian island rather than visiting a stage set. You still get easy access to Venice, but you also enjoy space, calm, and the unique character of Murano itself.
A couple of nights here is a tonic after the chaos of Venice—and who knows, you might even leave with a carefully wrapped piece of glass art that will forever remind you of your time on the island.
Have you stayed on Murano? Share you recommendations for other artsy travelers in the comments below.
Here are some more posts about off-the-beaten-track destinations in Europe:
When most people think of “fair” Verona, they typically think of Shakespeare’s play Romeo and Juliet.
Two households, both alike in dignity (In fair Verona, where we lay our scene), From ancient grudge break to new mutiny, Where civil blood makes civil hands unclean. (Prologue.1–4)
But when I recently stayed in Verona for a week on a house exchange, it wasn’t the romantic story of Romeo and Juliet that I had in mind.
It was the city’s real history. For me, that’s the true romance of Verona.
History of Verona
Thanks to its location along the Adige River in the Veneto region of northern Italy, Verona has been inhabited since prehistoric times. It became a Roman town in the 3rd century B.C. and was one of the most important Italian cities during the Roman era.
Because of its strategic location on the river, it was used as a base for overseeing the northern territories and was at the intersection of many important roads.
Today, everywhere you look, the city teems with Roman art and architecture.
But that’s not all. Medieval Verona is equally represented, with its many artifacts woven seamlessly throughout the city. Add the city’s Renaissance and Baroque masterpieces, and this art-historical wonderland is complete.
No wonder Verona is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Arrival in Verona
My first experience with the city of Verona was at night. We arrived after taking the train directly from Venice, an hour away. We then took an Uber to our house exchange on the left bank of the Adige River.
After settling in, we went in search of a restaurant.
We walked across the Ponte Vittoria (Victory Bridge) and, in five minutes, found ourselves right in the middle of Piazza Brà, otherwise known as tourist central.
The piazza was packed, and the energy electric. We quickly found an outdoor table across from Verona’s famous Roman arena and ordered—what else—pizza!
Piazza Brà Restaurants
What to See in Verona
Following is an overview of the places I visited during my week in Verona. While you can see quite a lot of the city in a day, slow down and consider spending a full week, or at least two or three full days. Verona has a lot to offer!
The Verona Arena
The most prominent reminder of Verona’s Roman past is the Arena di Verona. This must-see attraction was built in 30 AD (forty years before the Colosseum in Rome). The ancient Romans staged deadly gladiator and animal fights here—an entertainment staple throughout the Roman world.
Verona Arena, 30 AD
In the following centuries, as was the medieval custom, the arena became a rich source for the construction materials needed to create new buildings in the city.
The structure we see today is the result of this constant scavenging and a devastating 12th-century earthquake.
The arena has been in continual use over the centuries.
In the Middle Ages, judicial disputes were resolved by hand-to-hand combat here, and until the 18th century, this was the site of jousts and tournaments.
Today, the arena is the setting for Verona’s world-famous opera season.
Piazza Brà
The Piazza Brà is the main square in the center of Verona. (The term bra is derived from the German word breit, which means broad.) It’s one of Italy’s largest piazzas and an ideal spot for people-watching.
The welcoming, open space is paved with pink marble and lined with restaurants, majestic historical buildings, and the picturesque Portoni della Brà (Gates of the Bra).
The Portoni della Piazza Brà archways are embedded in Verona’s medieval walls, connecting the city to the suburban countryside at the time.
Verona Tourist Office
The tourist office is located in the Piazza Brà. Here you can buy tickets for the Hop-on-Hop-off bus to explore Verona or book other city tours.
When I was younger, I had nothing but disdain for tourists who chose to explore a city in such a superficial manner.
Now, I’ve realized it’s an excellent way to quickly get the big picture, find your favorite points of interest, and save your feet for the main events—museums, churches, castles, and ruins.
Here are some tours in Verona to consider:
Porta Borsari
Not far from the Piazza Brà stands the impressive Porta Borsari(the Borsari Gate). Built in the 1st century AD, it was the primary entrance to the city in Roman times.
And it was here that medieval tax collectors charged tariffs on goods entering and exiting the city; hence the gate’s name, which roughly translates to “the money purse gate.”
On the other side of the gate is the Corso Porta Borsari, an ancient Roman street. Now, it’s a charming pedestrian shopping district known for its shoe stores.
Porta Borsari, 1st Century AD
Via Mazzini
Another ancient street—Via Mazzini—is slightly beyond the Porta Dei Borsari. The buildings on either side of this marbled walkway house Verona’s most elegant shops.
Although these stores sell the latest fashions, they’re rooted—as is everywhere else in Verona—in the past (literally).
A good example of this is the Benetton store. Its ground floor is covered in glass so you can see the 1st-century Roman domus (home) excavated beneath it.
Piazza delle Erbe
Both Via Mazzini and Corso Porta Borsari lead to the rectangular Piazza delle Erbe (Plaza of Herbs), originally the site of the Roman Forum.
This bustling square, surrounded by historic buildings, is now home to an open-air market, continuing one of the ancient forum’s traditional functions.
Outdoor market stall in the Piazza delle Erbe
Three historic relics adorn the middle length of the piazza: the Capitello, Madonna di Verona, and The Winged Lion of St. Mark.
Capitello
The Capitello (Capital) is a 13th-century canopied podium used in the Middle Ages to swear in magistrates.
Madonna di Verona
The Madonna di Verona (My Lady of Verona) fountain is named for the Roman sculpture it supports. In 1368, the original statue that had inhabited the piazza since the 1st century was restored, given a crown, and placed atop a fountain.
This was at the peak of Verona’s medieval political power, and the sculpture was intended to personify the great city.
Winged Lion of St. Mark
A tall marble column supports the winged lion of St. Mark. The sculpture was erected in 1523 as an emblem of the Venice Republic, which ruled Verona from the 15th to the 18th century.
Casa Mazzanti
Another art historical find in the Piazza delle Erbe is the painted façade of theCase Mazzanti(Mazzanti Houses), originally the residence of the powerful della Scala family, who ruled Verona during its medieval heydays.
In 16th- and 17th-century Verona, the palace facades of the city’s most prominent families were often entirely decorated with frescoes, so much so that Verona was nicknamed the painted city.
Many of these paintings did not survive, were plastered over, or were detached from their walls and exhibited in museums.
One of the best-preserved examples, and still in its original location, is Case Mazzanti, painted by Alberto Cavalli, a collaborator of the Mannerist painter Giulio Romano. It’s easy to see the influence of Michelangelo’s muscular style in these monumental frescoes.
Palazzo Maffei
At the northwest end of the piazza, the Palazzo Maffei (Maffei Palace) provides a grand theatrical finale to the entire space. The original building dates back to the 14th century but was completely redesigned into a sumptuous Baroque mansion in the 17th century.
Today, the palazzo houses the Casa Museo (House Museum) art collection and a fabulous restaurant—the Ristorante Maffei. The museum was closed when we were there, but we were able to eat a delicious lunch between the grand Baroque columns of its elegant courtyard.
Verona’s Roman Theater and Archaeological Museum
From the Palazzo Maffei, we wandered the narrow streets to the picturesque Ponte Pietra (Stone Bridge)—first built in Roman times but rebuilt often since. Crossing the bridge, we came to Verona’s restored Roman theater, dating to the 1st century AD and still used today.
An impressive archaeological museum nestles in the hillside high above the theater in what used to be a fifteenth-century Jesuit monastery.
It’s a steep climb on uneven steps to get to the museum, but it’s worth it for those who like ancient art and a stunning historic setting.
Archaeological Museum
Here are two interesting exhibits in the Archaeological Museum: an ancient Greek rhyton (drinking cup) from the 4th century BC and the torso of a Roman soldier.
Verona’s Piazza dei Signori
Returning across the Ponte Pietra, we came upon the Piazza dei Signori (Plaza of the Lords) with its statue of Dante in the center.
The sculpture was commissioned in 1863 to honor the 600th anniversary of Dante’s birth. Dante lived in Verona for seven years after his exile from Florence. Verona’s oldest café is also in this piazza. It named itself Caffè Dante after the Dante monument was installed. We didn’t eat at Caffè Dante, but I wish we had!
Shown below is the Piazza dei Signori. The Caffè Dante is to the left; the sculpture of Dante is in the center, and the Loggia del Consiglio is to the right.
Palazzo della Ragione and Loggia del Consiglio
The piazza is surrounded by splendid buildings that began in the Middle Ages. The Palazzo della Ragione (Town Hall) was built by the powerful della Scala family mentioned earlier.
They ruled Verona during the 13th and 14th centuries—a time of significant economic and cultural achievement for the city. The palace had four towers in medieval times, but only one remains today—the breathtaking 275-foot-high Torre dei Lamberti(Lamberti Tower).
On the north side of the Piazza dei Signori stands the 15th-century Loggia del Consiglio (Loggia of the Council)—a classic example of Early Renaissance design. The figures on top represent famous Verona citizens.
The two buildings offer a sharp contrast of styles. While the medieval town hall incorporated soaring towers into its overall design to sweep you off your feet, the Renaissance loggia appeals more to the rational mind with its harmonious balance of horizontals and verticals.
The Church and Cemetery of Santa Maria Antica, Verona
Tucked around the corner down a narrow street from the Piazza dei Signori is the little 12th-century church of Santa Maria Antica, which became the della Scala family church.
The sarcophagus and equestrian statue of Cangrande I adorn the church façade above the door.
Cangrande I was the most significant figure of the della Scala family. He protected Dante while in exile and was acclaimed as a great warrior and powerful autocrat who was Verona’s sole ruler from 1311 until he died in 1329.
Next to the church is the della Scala family cemetery with imposing Gothic tombs that almost overshadow the church itself.
Below is the Tomb of Cansignorio della Scala (who ruled Verona from 1359 to 1375). Like his more famous predecessor, Cangrande I, he’s depicted on horseback in full armor.
This is the most richly decorated tomb in the cemetery with the elaborate cast of characters on its base–warrior saints, Gospel figures, the Virtues, and the Apostles–even more impressive than the statue itself.
Dinner and a View
After an exhilarating and exhausting day of sightseeing, a relaxing dinner in a beautiful location is always welcome. With this in mind, we dined one evening at the Re TeodoricoBar and Restaurant near Piazzale Castel San Pietro on San Pietro Hill overlooking the Adige River.
The hill has been inhabited since the beginning of Roman times, and the restaurant has been there for sixty years. The views from this spot are spectacular, and the food outstanding.
Re Teodorico Bar
Re Teodorico view
Verona’s Castelvecchio
The della Scala family adorned Verona not only with magnificent tombs but also a magnificent castle.
The Castelvecchio is a massive fortress built next to the Adige River from 1354 to 1355 during the reign of Cangrande I.
The fortified structure even spans the river, providing the castle inhabitants with a protected escape. Today, everyone can “escape” across this carefully reconstructed and gracefully arched Ponte di Castel Vecchio, a pedestrian bridge.
Civico Museo d’Arte
The castle interior has been restored and transformed into bright exhibit spaces that include the collections of the Civico Museo d’Arte.
Paintings
The collection features sculptures and decorative arts in addition to paintings by Bellini, Rubens, Montagna, Guardi, Tiepolo, Tintoretto, Pisano, and artists of the 15th- and 16th-century Veronese school.
The detail below is from a painting called Madonna dell’ombrello (Madonna of the Umbrella), created by Girolamo dai Libri (Girolamo of books). Besides being a painter of large-scale works, he was also a manuscript illuminator, which explains his name and his ability to paint such beautiful, meticulous details.
You can see the complete painting below. Although Girolamo is not known as one of the Renaissance greats, I find this piece captivating.
Madonna of the Umbrella, 1530, by Girolamo dai Libri, Castelvecchio, Verona. Photo source: Wikimedia Commons
Statues
Outside on the castle grounds stands the original equestrian sculpture of Cangrande I—a Gothic art masterpiece.
Although Cangrande was christened Can Francesco, his nickname—”big dog” in Italian—probably came from his physical and mental prowess. This nickname also explains the large dog-headed helmet with eagle wings that leans back on his shoulders in the sculpture.
But besides the elaborate helmet, the most striking thing about this artwork is Cangrande’s expression. Instead of looking serious or fierce, he appears to be resting between conflicts with a self-satisfied grin.
History remembers Cangrande as incredibly strong and brave in battle, but he was also known for his friendly and kind disposition. This sculpture, then, celebrates both the great warrior and the affable man.
In a corner tower of the castle’s raised walkways, you can also see the original equestrian monument of Mastino II. He came into power after Cangrande I died. Like his uncle, he’s shown in full armor. But instead of being relaxed, he’s prepared for a fight, his face hidden behind a helmet in the form of a winged mastiff. As with Cangrande I, the helmet references his name. Mastino means mastiff in Italian.
The Basilica of San Zeno, Verona
Leaving the Castelvecchio, we walked west along the Adige River until we came to a large 11th-12th-century basilica dedicated to San Zeno, the 4th-century Veronese Bishop and Patron Saint of Verona.
But let me digress here for a moment. Although I wrote at the beginning of this post that my focus for this trip was not Romeo and Juliet, tradition says this church is where they married. So, as it turns out, we did see one of Romeo and Juliet’s haunts (although not the famous balcony, and quite unintentionally).
The church of San Zeno (pictured in the center below) is flanked by its elegant campanile on the right and the Benedictine abbey on the left with its classic medieval defensive tower. The three make a striking architectural ensemble.
We accessed the church through a side entrance. The front portal stays shut to protect the massive interior bronze doors with their marvelously expressive Romanesque reliefs dating from the 11th to the 13th centuries. Here is a detail from the bronze door.
Along with its masterful bronze portals, the church interior includes an exquisite one-of-a-kind, 14th-century wooden roof and walls covered with frescoes from the 13th to the 15th centuries. Some of these frescoes have peeled away over time to reveal the earlier paintings underneath, making marvelously surreal images.
The pièce de résistance in this church is the elaborate 15th-century painting, Madonna with Saints, behind the high altar. Andrea Mantegna, one of the great artists of the Italian Renaissance, created this exquisitely detailed masterwork.
Staying in Verona
As I mentioned in the beginning, we did a house exchange in Verona, but our friends (seasoned travelers) recently stayed in Hotel Torcolo, located a few steps from the arena in the heart of the old town. They loved its location, antique charm, and a restaurant (pictured below) with great food and wine.
Torcolo Restaurant at the Hotel Torcolo
Day Trip to Lake Garda
During a week stay in Verona, consider taking a day trip to beautiful Lake Garda. The train from Verona Porta Nuova train station to Desenanzo del Garda/Sirmione takes just 20 minutes. Check out the Artsy Traveler post on Sirmione.
So, there’s my take on Verona in a nutshell. It’s a marvelously rich town on so many levels—the architecture, the art, the history, the landscape, the food, and, well, yes, the Romeo and Juliet lore!
Have you visited Verona? Share your recommendations for other artsy travelers in the Comments below.
Here are more posts about destinations in northern Italy:
The Campania region of southern Italy is packed with swoon-worthy sites. A week in Campania is just about long enough to get a good sense of the area.
And if you have even more time, you won’t run out of things to see!
In this post, I present a suggested itinerary that includes two nights in Naples, three nights in Sorrento on the Amalfi coast, and two nights in off-the-beaten-track Paestum.
If you have more time and you’re driving, you could throw in a night or two in Positano south of Sorrento on the Amalfi coast.
Itinerary at a Glance
Day 1 & 2: Stay in Naples at Palazzorefici and explore the National Archaeological Museum and Pompeii (or Herculaneum)
Day 3, 4, 5: Stay in Sorrent at the Hotel Eden and explore Capri & and Amalfi Coast
Day 6 & 7: Venture south to Paestum and stay at the Hotel Savoy on the coast
Overview
The Campania region of southern Italy is anchored by the sprawling, crazy, fascinating city of Naples. This is where I suggest you start your exploration of the region. Use it as a home base for the first two days, devoting your first day to exploring Naples and then your full day to exploring Pompeii, Herculaneum, and/or Vesuvius.
Then, set off for Sorrento where you’ll home base for three days and take day trips down the Amalfi Coast. Then, scoot back to the highway and tootle south to Paestum.
While the Amalfi coast is extremely tight and can be mobbed. Paestum is relatively peaceful with expansive beaches and the most awesome Greek ruins you’ll find anywhere in the Mediterranean.
First, I provide some tips about getting around the Campania, and then I share my suggestions for what to do and see on each of your seven days in this picturesque and historic region of Italy.
Getting Around Campania
Driving in this area is not for the faint-hearted and not the best idea unless you’re coming from another region of Italy and already have a car.
If you’re flying into Naples, don’t pick up your car until you’re on your way out. Take a taxi to the airport, pick up your rental car, and then head for Sorrento.
If you’d rather not rent a car, modify the itinerary to use a combination of public transit, small group tours, and private transfers.
Another option is to spend the entire week in Sorrento, which is located between Naples and the Amalfi coast, and take day trips from there. You may need to skip Paestum, but you can spend more time on the Amalfi Coast and have a day or two free to just chill or perhaps visit the fabled Isle of Capri.
You’ll spend more time commuting, but you could save money on restaurant meals by renting an apartment for the week.
Plus, there’s something to be said for coming back every evening to the charming ambiance in the historic center of one of southern Italy’s most beguiling towns.
Looking over the Mediterranean from Sorrento
Highlights of your week include visits to Vesuvius and/or Pompeii, the Isle of Capri and the Blue Grotto, the towns of Sorrento, Positano, and Amalfi on the stunning Amalfi Coast, and Paestum about two hours farther south on the Mediterranean coast (best with a car).
Day 1: Arrive in Naples
Naples is kind of crazy, which is part of its charm.
Take the train directly from Rome and then take a taxi from the Naples train station to your hotel.
I recommend staying in the Plebiscito area and splurging on a hotel that includes a sweeping view of the Bay of Naples with Vesuvius steaming gently in the distance.
Stunning view over the Bay of Naples
On your first afternoon, take a taxi to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (the National Archeological Museum) which contains one of the world’s finest collections of Greco-Roman artifacts.
A Naples Art Card offers discounted entry into the Museo Archeologico Nazionale and several other major museums in Naples.
Other things to see in Naples include the opulent Palazzo Reale located in the Piazza del Plebiscito and the nearby Castel Nuovo. From the top of the castle ramparts, you’ll enjoy stunning views of Naples and the harbor.
In the evening, stroll through the atmospheric Santa Lucia district–a labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets winding from just west of the Piazza del Plebiscito down to the sea.
Stroll along the waterfront overlooking the Gulf of Naples, then dine at one of the many seafood restaurants on the harbor. Here’s Gregg with Mount Vesuvius in the background.
Safety in Naples
Are you safe in Naples? The city has a reputation for petty crime, but how dangerous is it for the tourist? This article gives you the lowdown, but the short answer is yes, you’re safe in Naples.
I never felt unsafe, although I did occasionally get ripped off by taxi drivers. But by and large, I found the people in Naples friendly and enthusiastic.
Day 2: Mt. Vesuvius and Pompeii
You could probably “do” Vesuvius, Pompeii, and Herculaneum on a day trip from Naples, but I don’t recommend it. Instead, choose two of the three sites and enjoy them at a relatively leisurely pace.
I suggest Pompeii and Vesuvius or Vesuvius and Herculaneum. If you’d prefer to skip the mountain, then find a small group tour that goes to both Pompeii and Herculaneum for a thoroughly ruinous day.
The key is to save yourself stress by taking guided tours to these incredible sites. It’s possible to see them via public transit, but unless your budget is really tight, I suggest you give your day over to an experienced guide and then sit back and soak up the landscape and the history.
And if the weather is super hot, I seriously suggest you skip Pompeii and instead enjoy the art of Pompeii at the Naples Archeological Museum in air-conditioned comfort. Touring the Pompeii ruins, where there is no shade and a lot of bare stone, can become too much of an ordeal for this artsy traveler!
Vesuvius
I first scaled Vesuvius in a chair lift on a bitterly cold December day. The views were spectacular as was the proximity to the smoking crater.
Nowadays, you’ll have to hike uphill for a steep 30 minutes to reach the summit. From there, circumnavigate the crater’s lip to enjoy jaw-dropping views of Naples, the Mediterranean, and Pompeii.
Mount Vesuvius looming behind the ruins of the Forum in Pompeii
The eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD buried the cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum in ash and lava. For eighteen hours, the mountain spewed ash, dust and rocks twelve miles into the sky. The poor folks in Pompeii and Herculaneum didn’t have a chance.
Here’s a tour from Naples that includes Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius:
The most poignant thing about Pompeii’s ancient ruins is their frozen-in-time quality. Volcanic ash has preserved the bodies of people and animals twisted in the final throes of death.
Plaster cast of Pompeii victims
You also get a remarkable look at everyday life. You’ll see electoral propaganda messages painted on walls, elegant villas, modest houses, peasant dwellings, and even squalid brothels.
Walk through narrow lanes to see the remains of workshops complete with furniture, tools, lamps, and foodstuffs. One of my favorite things was seeing the ruts cut into the stone roads by chariot wheels.
Amazing frescoes decorate the walls of Casa della Fontana Piccola in Pompeii.
You need to spend at least an afternoon in Pompeii. If you’re a big fan of Roman ruins, choose a day tour that gives you plenty of time to explore the ancient ruins.
If you have the energy, walk to the Villa of the Mysteries where you’ll find some of the best-preserved frescoes still in situ in Pompeii.
Frescoes from most of the other villas in the city have long since been removed to the Naples Archeological Museum.
Herculaneum
Allow yourself time to visit Herculaneum. Although smaller than Pompeii, Herculaneum is richer, with larger houses, more impressive mosaics, and better-preserved ruins.
More complete houses remain because the ash from Vesuvius destroyed Herculaneum in a different way than it did Pompeii. In Pompeii, falling ash collapsed many of the roofs, whereas the ash fell more slowly over Herculaneum, covering and preserving wood and other organic objects.
Herculaneum is less crowded than Pompeii and much smaller, with better frescoes and mosaics. However, much of the city is yet to be excavated.
Second Evening in Naples – Pizza!
In the evening, find a pizza place and enjoy Naples’s most famous food export. The pizza in Naples really is amazing!
And if you have time, why not combine dinner with a pizza-making cooking class! Here’s an option on GetYourGuide:
Take the train from Naple to the charming town of Sorrento or catch the ferry from Naples. Or, as noted earlier, pick up your rental car from the airport and drive to Sorrento.
On a recent visit to Campania, I parked on the outskirts of Naples rather than risk driving into the city (wise move!). At the end of my Naples stay, I took a taxi to the parking lot and then carried on to Sorrento.
On another trip, I took a taxi to Sorrento from our hotel in Naples and got into trouble when the driver demanded payment upon our arrival at the hotel in Sorrento. I’d already paid the manager of the hotel in Naples for the taxi. Unfortunately, we’d mistakenly taken the wrong taxi at the Naples hotel.
The driver spoke only Italian and was very angry with the stupid tourists who didn’t want to pay twice for the ride. Fortunately, the manager of the hotel in Sorrento called the Naples manager, and, after much yelling and gesticulating, during which time I was sure blows would be traded, everything was sorted out. The taxi driver grudgingly shook our hands and presumably drove back to Naples to get his money.
I haven’t taken the ferry to Sorrento, but it seems like a great option. The ride is scenic and takes only 45 minutes. Purchase tickets here.
Hanging Out in Sorrento
Lemon trees and palm trees, houses clinging to cliffs, stunning views of the coast and the turquoise Mediterranean–this area of southern Italy is postcard-perfect.
And Sorrento makes the perfect home base to explore the area.
Sorrento on the Amalfi Coast
The whole point of Sorrento is to slow down and relax. Amble along the small streets and enjoy la dolce vita. If you’re into shopping, Sorrento is the place to buy inlaid wooden boxes. I still have the wooden music box I bought on my first trip to Sorrento in the 1970s.
Sorrento is also a good place to buy cameos. Unfortunately, I lost the pink cameo I bought there. I still miss that cameo.
In the early evening, join the locals for the passeggiata. Families and couples dress up and stroll the shady streets, talking and laughing, gelatos in hand. The bars are full, and everything seems right with the world.
Day 4: Visit Capri
If the weather is fine, book a boat tour to the fabled island of Capri and its Blue Grotto. Yes, Capri can get crowded, but it’s drop-dead gorgeous, with its white limestone cliffs, azure views of the Tyrrhenian Sea, and tumbling gardens.
Catch an early hydrofoil from Sorrento to avoid the cruise-ship crowds that clog the streets by midday.
A visit to Capri’s Blue Grotto is worth the time and effort required to get there, even if you’re only in the grotto soaking up the blue for a few minutes.
The Blue Grotto is a sea cave famous for its luminous blue light and shimmering waters accessible only in a tiny dinghy through a narrow entranceway.
Duck!
A boat you catch on Capri stops at the grotto and waits while you board the dinghy and are rowed into the grotto. If you’re prone to seasickness, pop a Gravol before leaving the dock in Capri.
Blue Grotto, Capri, Italy
Scrambling into the little dingy from the larger boat can be either entertaining or terrifying, depending on your fitness level and tolerance for danger.
I didn’t ask the guide how many people fall into the water every year. I suspect he wouldn’t have wanted to tell me.
The Blue Grotto is open year round, weather permitting. I visited on a sunny day in late December. Here’s a tour from Sorrento with GetYourGuide:
Continue home-basing in Sorrento and take a day trip to visit the Amalfi coast, or pull up stakes and make Positano your home for two nights. I suggest the latter to give you a more intimate feel for this charming town that tumbles down the cliff to the Mediterranean.
Devote an afternoon to visiting the town of Amalfi to view its colorful houses and stroll the beach.
Positano and romance go hand in hand. Did you ever see Only You with Marisa Tomei? The scenes in Positano are some of the movie’s most beautiful. If you have a lot of money, stay at the Sirenuse Hotel where scenes from the movie were shot.
Visit Positano to steep yourself in beauty. Wander the tiny streets, gaze out at the views, snap hundreds of photos, eat great food, and just relax.
If you’re home-basing in Sorrento, consider a boat trip down the Amalfi Coast:
If you’re driving, backtrack to Sorrento and get back out to the highway connecting Naples to the south, and head farther south to marvelous Paestum.
You can also keep driving along the coast, but the road is very winding and the trip will take longer.
In Paestum, you’ll find some of the best preserved Greek temples in the world (including in Greece!). I really enjoyed spending a few days in this lovely area of southern Italy.
Paestum feels off the beaten track, although in the summer months, the beaches can get crowded, mostly with Europeans on vacation.
Give yourself plenty of time to explore the three Greek temples at Paestum and the charming archeological museum. The temples are incredibly well-preserved, with columns that must be seen to be appreciated.
Photos can’t capture the sheer enormity of these columns that were built to hold up the temples 2,500 years ago.
Consider a small group guided tour of the temples and the archeological museum. You’ll learn a great deal about this amazing archeological site.
Stay in a hotel near the beach and take a day off from your vacation. Some of the hotels, such as the Hotel Savoy where I stayed for two nights have beach clubs overlooking the sea where you can relax on a sun lounger while sipping a limoncello.
Where to Stay in Campania
Naples
Here are two options, both of which I’ve stayed in and recommend:
The Hotel Paradiso is located on Posillipo Hill, the hotel has a commanding view across the Bay of Naples to Mount Vesuvius. Relax on the terrace and enjoy! The hotel is comfortable and reasonably priced.
The Palazzorefici is a stylish apartment deep in the heart of Naples on a tiny side street. It’s close to a main street where you can easily get taxis to where you want to go in Naples.
Sorrento
The Hotel Eden has a central location in Sorrento, with rooms on the upper floors overlooking the stunning view of the Bay of Naples. Lush gardens and a pool provide a welcome oasis. This is a good choice for Sorrento, although not budget-friendly.
Positano
Prices are high in this holiday mecca, so if Positano is above your price range, consider staying longer in Sorrento and taking a day tour down the Amalfi coast.
In Positano, the über posh Sirenuse Hotel is über expensive, but if you’re budget runs to it – wowee! Scenes from Only You were filmed there.
A more budget-friendly option is the Villa Antonietta that still has sea views but is much more modestly appointed.
Paestum
The Hotel Savoy, steps from the beach near Paestum is an awesome place to stay. It’s super luxurious and yet surprisingly affordable.
Here’s the view of the reflecting pool from our room.
Conclusion
Have you visited the Campania? Add your suggestions in the comments below. For more posts about Italy, check out:
Art masterpieces in Tuscany are as thick on the ground as grapes at harvest time.
When you visit Tuscany, you’ll enjoy la dolce vita, for sure, but in between sips of some of the world’s best wine, prepare to have your breath taken away by some of the world’s most cherished art.
Let’s face it, Tuscany is the perfect storm for art lovers with its stunning scenery, amazing food, tons of history, and world-class art.
In this post, I present a selection of the art masterpieces to consider including in your Tuscany travels—whether this is your first trip or your tenth (or somewhere in between).
Top Masterpieces at a Glance
Paintings by Martini, da Vinci, Botticelli & Artemisia at the Uffizi in Florence
You’ll recognize some of the art included in this post, but others you may not be familiar with. I include both individual masterworks and art destinations in Tuscany.
A few of my suggested places are a fair way off the beaten path which means they won’t be crowded.
Organization
I’ve grouped the art by location:
Florence
Villa Demidoff (Outside Florence)
San Gimignano
Siena
Il Giardino dei Tarocchi near Grosseto
The map of Tuscany below shows the general locations of the pieces covered in this post. See individual places for more detailed maps.
My list is in no way exhaustive. Tuscany is chock-a-block with magnificent art, and to list all of them requires books, not blog posts. This list is a starting point to help you create your own perfect Tuscany itinerary.
Art in Florence
For many travelers to Tuscany, Florence, birthplace of the Italian Renaissance, is their only destination, which is a shame.
This wonderful city is worth visiting, and you’ll see amazing art galore, but it’s also extremely crowded and lacks the charm of other, smaller Tuscan towns, such as Siena and Lucca.
Duomo in Florence, Italy
That said, if you haven’t been to Florence, then you should include it on your itinerary. Stay at least two nights and preferably three or four.
You won’t run out of important works of art to enjoy.
Map of Florence
Florence is a very walkable and compact city. You can easily stroll between each of the main sites.
The Uffizi Gallery in Florence is masterpiece-central in Tuscany and a must-see. But be warned! You really, really need to make reservations for the Uffizi.
Don’t just show up hoping to walk right in. That is, unless you enjoy standing in long lines that move an inch a minute while all the people with pre-purchased tickets whisk by. It’s disheartening.
Here’s a ticket option for the Uffizi that includes a small group guided tour.
The Annunciation with St. Margaret and St. Ansanus by Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi (1333)
That’s a mouthful. I just call it Martini’s Annunciation. The subject of the annunciation—when the angel Gabriel flutters to earth and informs the Virgin Mary that she is to be the mother of Christ—was popular in medieval and Renaissance art.
I love this version by Martini and Memmi because of the expression on Mary’s face. She’s like, what? Seriously?
The Annunciation with St. Margaret and St. Ansanus by Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi (1333) [Public domain]
I’m also taken with the gold background and the flatness of the figures, a characteristic of 14th century art.
You’ll come across Martini’s Annunciation shortly after entering the Uffizi. A lot of people trudge right past it on a beeline for the more famous paintings by Botticelli, da Vinci, et al, but stop in the galleries of 14th-century paintings and spend some time.
You’ll be well rewarded and won’t be jostling for viewing room with thousands of selfie-stick wielders.
Annunciation by da Vinci
In later centuries, Annunciations, such as the famous one by Leonardo da Vinci below, look more realistic, but I like the energy and composition of the Martini one the best.
Since the art in the Uffizi is arranged chronologically, you’ll see da Vinci’s Annunciation after you view the Martini and Memmi version.
The Annunciation by Leonardo da Vinci: Public Domain
Birth of Venus by Botticelli (1485)
You’ve probably seen many reproductions of Botticelli’s Birth of Venus. The goddess of beauty and love arrives on the island of Cyprus, born of the sea spray and blown by the winds Zephyr and Aura (seen in the top left corner).
Venus perches on the edge of a giant scallop shell as goddesses are wont to do. She’s just so danged perfect.
I mean, look at that hair!
Birth of Venus by Sandro Botticelli: Public Domain
The room containing several paintings by Botticelli is generally really crowded. If possible, visit the Uffizi early or late in the day so you can swoon in relative solitude.
Other Works by Botticelli
In addition to Birth of Venus, you’ll also see Botticelli’s equally famous Primavera along with several more of his paintings exhibited in four consecutive rooms.
And once you’ve finished looking at the real things, you can buy them on just about every knick-knack known to humanity in the many gift shops lining the streets of the city.
Primavera mouse pad? Sure. Birth of Venus apron? Definitely.
Judith Beheading Holofernes (1620) by Artemisia Gentileschi
Hooray for Artemisia Gentileschi, one of the first recognized woman artists of the Baroque period. Several other women artists from the period (and earlier) have gained notice in recent years, but Artemisia is the one most people think of when asked to name a woman artist from back in the day.
She was also the first woman to be admitted to the Academy of Art and Design in Florence, which was no small feat at the time.
Artemisia’s painting of Judith beheading poor old Holofernes (hey, he deserved it) is an amazing work. Look at Judith’s muscles as she holds down Holofernes.
This subject was a favorite of the period, and male artists usually depicted Judith as a bit of an ethereal wimp. Not Artemisia. She doesn’t shy away from showing the sheer brute strength that Judith would need to saw the head off a man.
She and her maid are working hard!
Judith Beheading Holofernes (1620) by Artemisia Gentileschi: Public Domain
Two Amazing Davids
That’s Davids plural because in Florence you must see the super-famous David by Michelangelo as well as the not-quite-so-famous-but still-awesome David by Donatello.
Both Davids represent the Renaissance in different ways.
Michelangelo’s David
The most famous statue of David is the one created by Michelangelo and displayed in the Accademia, another place for which you must secure reservations or risk a long line-up.
David stands with magnificent insouciance at the end of a long hallway lined with other works by Michelangelo.
Some of these works are unfinished—human figures emerging half-formed from marble blocks. I like these works almost more than the finished sculptures because they show the process of turning blocks into humans.
Michelangelo’s David in the Accademia Gallery
When you finally work your way up to the front of the line and stand in front of David in all his naked glory, you’ll know what all the fuss is about.
He is magnificent.
Although sculpted from marble, the muscles and sinews appear to pulse with life. Every inch of him is perfection—a testament to the beauty and power of the human form.
I remember wandering around the back of him and staring up at a pair of buttocks that any gym rat would kill for. While thinking unholy thoughts, I was joined by a bevy of nuns. They weren’t speaking English, so I couldn’t understand what they were saying, but they were definitely smiling—and, truth be told, giggling.
Well, no wonder.
Here’s an topin for purchasing your timed-entry ticket to see Michelangelo’s David at the Accademia.
Donatello’s David at the marvelous Bargello Museum (reservations also recommended) might as well be a different species.
Where Michelangelo’s marble-carved David is tall, strong, and, let’s face it, hunky, Donatello’s bronze David is relaxed, laid-back, and kind of pretty.
He wears a hat festooned with flowers and leans on his sword, one hand on his hip. He’s like, come on Goliath, I dare ya to come at me.
Donatello’s David is famous for being the first free-standing bronze sculpture since antiquity.
The Bargello Museum—a former prison—includes many more wonderful artworks to enjoy, including sculptures by Benvenuto Cellini and works by Michelangelo, including his statue of Bacchus.
Fra Angelico at the Museo di San Marco
The Museo di San Marco is a little off the beaten path which means it’s not crowded—a relief in Florence.
The museum is housed in the former Dominican Monastery (called the Convento di San Marco) where Fra’ Angelico lived as a monk from 1436 to 1455 and painted his stunning frescoes.
Wander down the long corridor flanked on either side by the monk’s cells and stop at each cell to view Fra’ Angelico’s frescoes. I love the way he painted angel wings—very art deco-looking and colorful.
Annunciation by Fra Angelico in Cell 3: Public Domain
The museum contains numerous frescoes by Fra’ Angelico, including the magnificent fresco in the Chapter House and his famous version of the Annunciation located at the top of the stairs leading to the cells. As I mentioned, I’m partial to Annunciations, and Fra’ Angelico’s version is one of the best.
Savonarola: A Burning Tale
You can also peek into the cell once occupied by the infamous Savonarola, who preached vociferously against greed and luxury and denounced clerical corruption, despotic rule, and the exploitation of the poor.
Unfortunately for Savonarola, he went too far with his well-intended but over-the-top spectacles, including his Bonfires of the Vanities, and ended up hanged and burned in 1498.
Oops.
Brancacci Chapel
The attraction at the lovely Brancacci Chapel across the Arno in a quieter and less touristy area of Florence are the gorgeous frescoes by Masaccio and Masolino. The Chapel is located away from the tourist hordes and requires a pleasantly long walk through a Florentine neighborhood in which people actually live.
I stopped for lunch at a café with three tiny tables perched on the edge of the sidewalk and enjoyed being the only tourist in the vicinity.
I was entertained watching a group of well-heeled, impeccably dressed Florentine businessmen lunching nearby. Each man looked like he’d stepped straight out of one of the Renaissance frescoes in the Brancacci Chapel.
Substitute business suits for tights and cloaks and not much has changed.
The Healing of Tabitha by Masolino at the Brancacci Chapel: Public Domain
Admission to the Brancacci Chapel is limited so purchase your tickets in advance. Tickets from this site let you skip the line, and provide a video guide.
You’ll be struck by the vivid colors in the Masaccio and Masolino frescoes commissioned in 1424. The Expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise is especially evocative.
Other Suggestions for Florence
Palazzo Davanzati
Tour this medieval palazzo to discover what life was like for wealthy people in the early Renaissance. I had a great visit even though the guided tour was in Italian.
It didn’t matter; I could still get a good idea of how people lived.
A highlight is the painted walls in many of the rooms. When I was writing my first novel, The Towers of Tuscany, I often envisioned the layout of the rooms in the Palazzo Davanzati as I wrote.
Here’s an option for a private guided tour of the Palazzo Davanzati, which would be well worth your time if you are interested in how rich people lived seven hundred-odd years ago.
Treat yourself to a refreshing walk through these beautiful gardens with spectacular views over Florence and the Tuscan countryside.
The beautifully green Boboli Gardens
When it’s hot (as it often is in the summer), do yourself a favor and escape the crush of tour groups in the center of the city and take a taxi across the Arno to the Boboli Gardens.
Florence overflows with interesting museums and churches and artwork to keep you busy for days.
And don’t forget shopping! Florence is the place in Tuscany to buy leather goods (although they can be cheaper in Siena but without as much choice).
Tours in Florence
Here are some Get Your Guide tour options in Florence.
In the gardens of the Villa Demidoff in Pratolino, about ten kilometers north of Florence in the beautiful Tuscan countryside, you can visit the aptly named Colossus. A seated figure that appears to be half rock, half man broods on an outcropping above a pond.
I adore this statue!
It’s just so darned unexpected. We visited a hot summer’s day and were captivated. The 35-foot tall Colossus is a colossal (ha!) statue created in the late 1500s by the Italian sculptor Giambologna.
Colossus at the Villa Demidoff
Despite his size, Colossus looks quite melancholy, as if he wished he could rise from the rocks keeping him captive and clomp off to a quiet grove where no one would take selfies with him.
Inside Colossus are various chambers.
Other Sites in the Gardens
The gardens are home to several more interesting features, including the hexagonal Chapel of Buontalenti, a fantastic dragon sculpture behind Colossus, the Cupid’s grotto, and the fountain of Jupiter.
The park is open every weekend from April to October, and admission is free. Before you go, check opening times on the park website.
For a good day out, rent a car and drive north to enjoy the park and the surrounding area, then have dinner in Fiesole while watching the sun set over Florence in the valley below.
You can also take a bus to Pratolino: catch the ATAF bus #25A from Piazza San Marco – the “A” is important. SITA also offers service to Pratolino from the main stop in SMN Piazza Stazione and CAP, with stops on Via Nazionale in Florence.
Art Masterpieces in Siena
Hands down, Siena is my favorite city in Tuscany. I never tire of wandering its narrow streets and then emerging, dazzled by the sun, into the Piazza del Campo—or Il Campo.
Called the most beautiful living room in Italy, Il Campo takes my breath away every time.
The breathtaking Campo
The first time I went to Siena by myself, I was so overcome with emotion by finally making it to the Campo, where several important scenes in my novel The Towers of Tuscany take place, that I dropped to my knees, lay down on my back, and took a selfie.
Relaxing on the 14th-century bricks of the Campo in Siena
Fortunately, no one batted an eye. Several people were doing the same, their backs warmed by bricks laid in the 1330s, not long before the Black Death carried away half of the medieval city’s population.
Siena is very compact, which is a good thing because the only way to get around is by walking. Fortunately, you can stroll between the two major sites–the cathedral and the palazzo publicco in just a few minutes. Use the map below to orient yourself.
I single out the Piccolomini Library as one of two must-see masterpieces in Siena, but really, the entire cathedral (also known as the Duomo) is worth a half-day of your touring time.
You can skip the line by buying your tickets ahead. Your ticket is also good for the baptistery, crypt, and the Opera museum—all must-sees.
Cathedral Square and Duomo
Cathedral of Siena
A superb example of the Gothic Roman style in Italy, the Cathedral (the Duomo) is full of treasures. Marvel at the Duomo’s indoor and outdoor alternating stripes in white and greenish-black marble.
Black and white are the symbolic colors of Siena.
Unlike the sparse interiors of some cathedrals in Italy, the interior of the Duomo is fantastically decorated.
Overlooking the Duomo
Look for the statue of St. John the Baptist by Donatello to the right after the Piccolomini Library, the rose window by Duccio di Buoninsegna, and the marble pulpit by Nicola Pisano, along with many gorgeous frescoes.
One of the most beautiful parts of the cathedral is its floor. You can spend hours wandering around the huge mosaics to “read” the stories.
The fifty-six etched and inlaid marble panels were designed between 1369 and 1547 by forty leading artists.
Piccolomini Library
And then there’s the Piccolomini Library itself. This place was a surprise to me. I hadn’t heard of it and so was in for a treat when I entered and had the breath knocked out of me (figuratively speaking).
Ceiling in the Piccolomini Library
The library is dedicated to Enea Silvio Piccolomini, an immensely powerful man in the mid 1400s who was elected Pope Pius II in 1458.
The big draw in the library are the frescoes by Pinturicchio.
Each of the ten scenes representing important stages in the life of Pope Pius II is exquisitely painted. The colors, perspective, figures, and backgrounds are incredibly detailed and evocative of their time. I was mesmerized.
Maestà Altarpiece by Duccio di Buoninsegna
While you’re hanging around the Duomo, don’t miss the Opera museum (it’s part of your ticket) so you can admire the Maestà altarpiece by Duccio di Buoninsegna that was commissioned by the cathedral in 1311.
I like the altarpiece because it’s gorgeous and because it makes a cameo appearance in my novel, The Towers of Tuscany.
Central panel of the Maestà, 1308–1311, by Duccio di Buoninsegna. Museo dell’Opera metropolitana del Duomo, Italy
Palazzo Pubblico
You can’t miss the Palazzo Pubblico in Il Campo. The much-photographed red brick palazzo that looks like a child’s drawing of a castle has become one of the most recognized views in Siena. I’ve taken my share of photos of it and the adjacent Torre Mangia.
Palazzo Pubblico
The Palazzo Pubblico dates from the early 14th century and played an important role in ensuring Siena enjoyed relative peace from the late 13th century to 1355.
While you tour the Museo Civico, read about the “Government of the Nine”, the system of government that consisted of nine representatives of the people elected from the middle class and not from the noble families. This relatively democratic form of government was responsible for commissioning many civic works of art in the first half of the 14th century.
Museo Civico – Torre Mangia
The Museo Civico is located on the first floor of the Palazzo Pubblico, which still functions as Siena’s city hall.
Enter the courtyard called the Cortile del Podestà to access the Museo Civico and, if you’re feeling energetic, climb the 400 steps to the top of the Torre Mangia.
The view is spectacular, but the narrow staircase is claustrophobic and, in the summer, very hot. I’ve climbed the Torre Mangia once and do not feel the need to do so again.
Frescoes in Sala del Mappamondo
There are plenty of interesting things to look at in the Museo Civico, but the big draw are the frescoes by Simone Martini and Ambrogio Lorenzetti.
The two large frescoes by Simone Martini are located in the massive hall called Sala del Mappamondo. You can’t miss it. To your left as you enter the hall is the Maestà by Simone Martini. The gorgeous fresco shows the Madonna seated on a throne with the Child and surrounded by angels and saints. Note all the haloes!
Maestà by Simone Martini in the Palazzo Pubblico: Public Domai
Turn around and at the other end of the hall you’ll see the fresco of Guidoriccio da Fogliano, a general on his horse with the castles he just conquered in the distance. You’ll see reproductions of this piece in a lot of souvenir shops.
I love how Guidoriccio and his horse are wearing the same ensemble. Very stylish.
Fresco of Guidoriccio da Fogliano in the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena: Public Domain
Frescoes in the Sala dei Nove
Now walk into the Sala dei Nove—the Hall of the Nine—to see Siena’s most famous masterpiece: the fresco cycle called Allegory of Good and Bad Government by Ambrogio Lorenzetti.
You’ll get a sore neck looking up at the three wall-size frescoes, famous because they’re interesting to look at and because they depict secular subjects instead of religious ones—a rarity at the time (1340s).
I love the girls dancing in the Good Government fresco (pictured below). Take a seat and enjoy gazing up at the frescoes. Whenever I’ve been to the Sala dei Novel, I’ve been pretty much alone.
Although famous, these frescoes aren’t that famous which means you’re likely able to enjoy them crowd-free.
Allegory of Good and Bad Government by Ambrogio Lorenzetti in the Palazzo Pubblico: Public Domain
Other Suggestions for Siena
Siena is worth at least two days of your time, although people often squeeze it in as an afternoon trip from Florence. Please don’t do that!
Compared to overcrowded Florence, this wonderful small city is a medieval treat. Make room in your itinerary for a proper visit so you have ample time to get to know this delightful city. You won’t find many big-ticket sites, but that’s not the point of Siena.
Here are some options for touring Siena and other nearby locations:
And when you’re not enjoying the art, spend time wandering the back streets of Siena.
Enjoy a cappuccino in one of the cafés overlooking the Campo and buy yourself a leather purse or two. They are far more reasonably priced here than in Florence. My collection is growing!
Art Masterpieces in San Gimignano
San Gimignano is overrun with tourists and crammed with tacky tourist shops. And yet I love it!
Every time we visit Tuscany, we stay for a few days in the vicinity of San Gimignano. We usually spend the day either touring around the countryside or staying put in our hotel to write (me) and draw (Gregg).
San Gimignano
Then, towards the end of the afternoon when the parking lots surrounding Gimignano start to empty, we venture forth.
By 4 or 5 pm, the tour busses have lumbered off, the merchants are standing outside their shops taking a much-needed break, the hot streets are shaded by the towers, and the whole town seems to exhale with relief.
Stroll virtually deserted side streets in search of art and food (in that order). For a small hill town, San Gimignano punches above its weight in excellent restaurants.
You’ll see a lot of art in San Gimignano, but don’t miss these two sites which fortunately are close to each other:
Palazzo Comunale in the Civic Museum
Located next to the Duomo, the Civic Museum also includes the Torre Grossa—the tallest of San Gimignano’s seventeen towers and the only one you can climb.
I have climbed it, and it’s worth doing, but the real draw are the frescoes in the chamber of the Podestà in the Palazzo Comunale (which also has other good art to enjoy).
View from the top of the Torre Grossa in San Gimignano
Snares of Love
The series of frescoes is called the “snares of love”, painted by Memmo di Filippucio between 1303 to 1310.
Scenes show both profane love and scenes from marriage. I love the secular nature of these frescoes, especially the one where the young married couple share a bathtub.
One of the frescoes in the Palazzo Comunale Civic Museum in San Gimignano
Frescoes in the Duomo of San Gimignano
The Duomo also contains an amazing number and variety of frescoes. Every wall on both sides of the nave is filled with frescoes, most dating from the 1300s.
The vivid colors are original; the frescoes have never required restoration.
Get the audio guide and walk slowly around the frescoes, picking out scene after scene from the Old and New Testaments. Even if you’re not into Bible stories, you can’t help but be entranced by these frescoes. I enjoy studying the clothing and the facial expressions for inspiration.
Pick up a ticket to the Museum of Sacred Art in the Duomo that includes an audio guide from this link.
Other Suggestions for San Gimignano
Climb to the top of the ruined Fortezza (fortress) at the highest point in San Gimignano to enjoy spectacular views over the countryside.
Even when the main street is heaving with sweaty tourists, the Fortezza is usually virtually empty.
San Gimignano 1300
One of my favorite museums in San Gimignano is San Gimignano 1300, located in a side street close to the Piazzale Comunale.
Here you’ll view a scale model of San Gimignano as it appeared in 1300.
You may also be able to pick up a copy ofThe Towers of Tuscany at San Gimignano 1300. I first visited the exhibit back in 2011 when I was researching my novel, and have returned many times since.
Here is where you’ll see a stunning collection of whimsical sculptures by modern artist Niki Saint Phalle. The sculptures are based on the Tarot cards and are a must-see if you’re looking for something far off the beaten path.
And the sculptures are a nice break from the medieval and Renaissance masterpieces that make up most of the art in Tuscany.
We spent a full hour wandering around the gardens on a hot afternoon in September. Although I took tons of photographs, they don’t do the sculptures justice. You have to visit the gardens and touch the sculptures, walk inside them, and sit on them to fully appreciate them.
When you go, check the website for the current opening hours. Usually, the gardens are open daily from April 1 to October 15 from 2:30 pm to 5:30 pm. In the winter, the gardens are open only on the first Saturday of the month from 9 am to 1 pm.
Where to Stay in Tuscany
I don’t think I’ve ever stayed in a sub-standard place in Tuscany. You are spoiled for choice! While prices will not be low if you’re looking for comfort and convenience (my two must-haves!), you’ll be rewarded with gorgeous views, friendly proprietors and il dolce vita!
Here are four of my favorite places I’ve stayed around Tuscany:
Sant’Antonio Country Resort near Montelpulciano: Fantastic place to kick back and relax. Stay for a week! I write a whole post about my experience staying there.
Agriturismo Casanova di Pescille near San Gimignano: You’ll need a car, but this place (and a handful more in the area) is just about perfect.
Serristori Palace Residence in Florence: this spacious apartment is right on the river and about a ten minute walk into the center of Florence. Highly recommended.
I Merli di Ada in Siena: this place is delightful! It’s very centrally located with lovely hosts and a comfy and spacious room.
Summary
My list of must-see art masterpieces barely scratches the surface of all the wonderful art you can enjoy when you slow down and take time to get to know Tuscany in all its glory.
Plan to spend two weeks enjoying the many beautiful towns and villages: Montalcino, Montepulciano, Lucca, Pisa, Volterra…the list goes on. Take a walking holiday or book into an agritourism property and settle in for a week of great food and long, warm days.
If you’re a fan of English Romantic poets, then you must make a pilgrimage to the Keats-Shelley House in Rome.
This lovely little literary museum is nestled right next to the world famous Spanish Steps in Rome. Thousands of visitors mill around the piazza in front of the steps, climb the steps, and take pictures of the steps.
Yes, the steps really are very attractive–lots of flowers and a striking two-tower church at the top.
But in the end, the steps are, well, steps. If you go to the Spanish Steps, take a quick pic and then veer right to visit the Keats-Shelley House. You’re in for a first-rate Artsy Traveler experience.
Literary Leanings
If you’ve been reading the Artsy Traveler blog for awhile, you probably know that I write mostly arts-inspired historical novels. My first three novels feature a painter (The Towers of Tuscany), a composer (A Woman of Note), and an actress (The Muse of Fire).
So, as a novelist, I’m a lover of literature, and what could be more literary than two of the greatest Romantic poets?
Also, back in the day when I went to university in England, I took my degree in English Literature. As a result, I studied a lot of poetry, particularly by Shelley.
So to enter rooms where Keats and Shelley hung out, really is a pilgrimage.
Touring the Keats-Shelley House
The Keats-Shelley House is extremely easy to find thanks to its location next to the Spanish Steps. You’ll also see the banner hanging outside.
The Keats-Shelley House is open from 10 to 1 and 2 to 6, and includes a special rate for seniors.
The ticket person got on my good side by telling us we didn’t qualify for the senior’s rate because it’s only for people over 65. Awww. That was kind of her.
But needless to say, I corrected her and got the reduced rate.
You enter the museum and climb to the first floor where you’ll find the tiny gift shop (more on that later) and the ticket taker.
After paying the entrance fee, turn right to tour a series of beautiful rooms containing a great many treasures and curiosities associated with the lives and works of several of the Romantic poets and their associates.
You’ll see letters written by Keats, Shelley, Bryon, Mary Shelley, Wordsworth, and other luminaries from the time. The evenness of their penmanship puts most modern folks to shame!
Also on display are drawings, snippets of poetry, paintings, and other memorabilia. The explanations are clear and informative.
Why The Poets Loved Italy
Back in the 18th and 19th centuries, with a decade or two off during the beginning of the 19th century for the Napoleonic Wars, Italy was a mecca for poets and writers from northern climes, including the Romantic poets from England, and Goethe from Germany.
These writers loved Italy’s warm weather, easy-going life, and the inspiration to be found in so many centuries of history. What attracted them to Italy back then isn’t so very different from what attracts me to Italy today.
It’s a very special country with so much to offer. No wonder I keep coming back year after year!
Rooms in the Keats-Shelley House
The rooms in the Keats-Shelley House include a library of more than 8,000 volumes. It’s considered one of the finest libraries of Romantic literature in the world.
Thoughtfully presented displays provide you with a lot to read as you prowl around the rooms. You could spend a great deal of time here!
The tour through the rooms ends at the tiny bedroom where John Keats died on February 23, 1821 at the age of just 25. It’s astonishing how he was able to compose so much sublime poetry in so few years. The museum includes plenty of information in English and Italian about Keats, his life, his tragic death, and of course his poetry.
Was it a vision, or a waking dream? Fled is that music:—Do I wake or sleep?
From Ode to a Nightingale
Here is the bed on which Keats died.
Byron’s Bicentenary
At first, I was mystified by the several banners related to Byron on display in the main library. After all, it’s the Keats-Shelley House. The very friendly and knowledgeable attendant told us that the House is celebrating the Bicentenary of Byron’s death in 1824.
His poetry is figured prominently on red banners. I haven’t read Byron for many years, so it was a real treat to reacquaint myself with some of his poetry.
We had a great chat with the attendant about the poets, Mary Shelley and her mum Mary Wollstonecraft, and the arts in general.
I mentioned that I’d interviewed Samantha Silva, author of Love and Fury about Mary Wollstonecraft on The Art In Fiction Podcast. Since the attendant was obviously interested in the era, I figured she may want to read the novel (highly recommended, by the way). She was delighted to learn about it and promised to look up the podcast.
I also told her about my novels and gave her one of my bookmarks because, well, marketing.
The Terrace
A highlight of a visit to the Keats-Shelley House is walking out on to the sweet little terrace overlooking the Spanish Steps. Imagine Keats and the gang sitting out there on a warm May afternoon sipping tea and talking poetry!
It’s pretty cool to think that the view Keats saw wasn’t all that dissimilar to the view we see today.
The house included drawings of the Piazza Spagna and the steps in the early 19th century, and indeed, not much has changed if you look above the ground floor shops.
The Gift Shop
After thoroughly enjoying touring the rooms, we exited via the gift shop. I couldn’t resist buying myself a cloth bag with a Grecian Urn on it, homage to Keats’s Ode to a Grecian Urn.
I also studied the collection of fridge magnets. We’ve taken to buying them most places we visit. Back home, our fridge door is getting pretty full up, but there’s always room for one more, or in this case, three.
I couldn’t decide which magnet to buy–Keats, Shelley, or Bryon–and so I bought all three.
Here they are–Keats on the left, Shelley in the middle, and Byron on the right. These guys were all in the twenties and early thirties when they were hanging out together, and all three died young.
They’re a bit like the rock stars of their time–living with unbridled passion and energy that burned out quickly, but wow, what a legacy they each left in their wake!
Conclusion
Have you visited the Keats-Shelley House in Rome? What did you think Share your impressions in the comments below for other Artsy Travelers.
Artsy Tours in Rome
I couldn’t find any literary-themed tours in Rome on GetYourGuide, so here’s a selection of tours related to music and also a tour of locations mentioned in Dan Brown’s Da Vinci Code series.
Note that I include tours listed on the GetYourGuide website because I’ve taken and enjoyed many of their tours.
You’ve arrived in Rome! Maybe, you’ve been lucky enough to have your taxi whisk you past the Colosseum on your way to your accommodations.
There it is! It’s huge! OMG!
We’re in the Eternal City!
This is SO cool!
Yes, the Colosseum in Rome is impressive and iconic. It’s the symbol of Rome and one of the seven wonders of the world. Millions of visitors come from all over the globe to see it. They snap selfies in front of it, gaze out over its ruined amphitheater, and stand in line-ups for hours.
My question is–should you bother? My answer? It depends!
Since my first visit to Rome in 1974, I’ve popped into the Colosseum four times. Three of those visits were great.
The most recent one was a nightmare.
The Colosseum itself hasn’t changed much apart from some restoration work over the decades. It’s still a massive ruin that, while impressive, bears little similarity to the magnificent original built over two thousand years ago.
Earthquakes, looting, and the general wear and tear of two millennia, not to mention the shuffling feet of millions and millions of visitors have taken their toll.
What has changed for visitors in recent years is just how incredibly crowded the Colosseum has become. The Colosseum ranks as the number one tourist attraction in Rome. Even St. Peter’s and the Vatican aren’t that crowded (although they are pretty much overrun).
Although I have no way of knowing for sure, I get the feeling during my most recent visit to the Colosseum that many people are ticking it off their must-see list, whether they are enjoying it or not. What a shame! Rome is so much more fabulous than the Colosseum.
The Colosseum is amazing, for sure. But is it worth your time to go inside when you can snap a photo like the one below with zero effort?
Should You Visit Rome and Not Go to the Colosseum?
Gasp! Should you do it? If you want to enjoy this marvelous city and you’re visiting between April to October, then I say yes, give the Colosseum a miss. Also forget the Vatican and the Sistine Chapel. You might consider visiting St. Peter’s since in my experience, the line moves fairly briskly and at least you’re outdoors for most of the wait.
But back to the Colosseum. In this post, I’ll describe my latest visit. You can then decide for yourself if it’s worth several hours of your precious sightseeing time. Or, would you be better off skipping the crowds and heading for some of the city’s quieter and infinitely more lovely sights such as the cosy Keats-Shelley House near the Spanish Steps?
Signing Up for a Colosseum Tour: Smart Idea or ?
As a savvy traveler (or at least so I like to think!), I know that the early visitor beats the crowds. The two-hour guided tour of the Colosseum I sign up for starts at 8 am and guarantees first entry into the site.
I imagine wandering through deserted passageways, the morning sun slanting pleasingly across the ancient ruins. The only sounds are the murmurs of the guide, a few tweeting birds, and perhaps the whispers of long-gone gladiators wafting up from the cells beneath the arena.
I mean, who starts sightseeing so early in the morning? For sure, I’ll have the place to myself along with a handful of other intrepid travelers willing to sign up for an early morning tour.
Finding the Tour
Promptly at 7:50 am, I arrive at the meeting point across the street from one of the entrances to the Colosseum and the Roman Forum. A small crowd of at least fifty people all proffering cell phones is my clue that I’m in the right place. I wait patiently for the beleaguered guide to check my phone, declare me valid, and press a small white sticker onto my chest. It’s now about 8:10 am, so obviously the tour doesn’t actually start at 8 am.
While waiting, I snap a photo of the Roman Forum across the street. It looks splendid in the early morning sun of one of the first really warm days I’ve experienced in Rome on my current trip in early May.
Waiting to Enter the Colosseum
Several minutes later, we are ushered across the road to the entrance gate and told that the ticket takers open at 8:30 and that we will be first! (said with enthusiasm, like it is a rare treat and not what we’ve signed up for).
Ticket takers? I’d neglected to read the fine print of the tour. The cost does not include the cost of entry into the archaeological site which includes the Forum and Palatine Hill in addition to the Colosseum.
A word of warning: Check what’s included in your tour and opt for a tour that includes the entry cost so the guide already has your tickets.
Lesson learned, I prepare to wait in line (at least I am close to the front) until the ticket booths open at 8:30–another fifteen minutes. After all, the guide has assured us that we’ll be first into the Colosseum. Isn’t that worth waiting a few extra minutes for?
Remember the tweeting birds, the silence of the ancient stones, the gladiator ghosts reminiscing about gladiator fights, the glorious isolation!
Buying a Ticket to the Colosseum
At precisely 8:40 am, the ticket takers open the two wickets and the first people in line eagerly step forward to buy their tickets. Yahoo! The line will surely go quickly and I’ll be inside the Colosseum communing with history and getting tons of inspiration for my next novel in no time flat.
8:50 am: The first people in line are still at the ticket booth.
9:00 am: The first people in line are still at the ticket booth. Oh wait! One of the groups has left and another couple has stepped forward. But at the other booth, the same four people are still talking with the attendant. What can they be talking about? What’s the holdup? Are they sharing recipes? Have they found a long-lost cousin? What gives?
The guide comes by and tells us to have our passports out and ready to show the ticket takers. What? I don’t have my passport with me although fortunately I do have my driver’s license. I ask the guide if that will do. Yes. Phew.
Another five minutes goes by and the first group of four finally leaves the booth. They are looking weary but relieved. I’d love to ask them what went down, but of course I don’t dare risk losing my place in line.
The next group steps forward. I take to counting to gauge how long they stay at the booth. Sixty seconds, another sixty, another sixty…five minutes and they’re done. Another ten minutes goes by during which time a few more groups get to the booth and then several minutes later step away, tickets in hand. Their per wait time is marginally decreasing.
Progress is being made.
My Turn Getting Tickets for the Colosseum
Finally, it’s my turn. I’m about to find out why it takes almost five minutes to process each person in a line that is now stretching back to the road and a considerable way along it. Did all these people book a group tour that required them to buy tickets?
I find out later that yes, they are all group tour people. The “regular” people who just want a ticket to the Colosseum without a tour buy their tickets at another booth. I’ll soon discover that many, many hundreds of them get inside the Colosseum long before we arrive.
So much for us being first!
Anyway, I’m at the booth.
“One for the Colosseum, per favore.”
“One?”
“Si.”
The attendant shakes her head as if to say what kind of a loser visits the Colosseum all by themselves first thing in the morning? I don’t share that my husband has elected to do the smart thing and spend a leisurely morning enjoying cappuccino and a walk about the chic ‘hood we’re staying in up near the Piazza del Popolo.
Instead, I push my driver’s license under the glass barrier and she places it in front of her keyboard. Then, with two stiff fingers, she laboriously starts to type. No wonder this whole process is taking forever! She has to physically enter the ID for every single person in line and she can’t touch type.
Oh dear.
After about two minutes (possibly a record), she hands me back my driver’s license, I pay with my credit card, and then I go stand with my fellow line waiters for the tour to begin.
It’s now 9:30 am.
Starting the Tour of the Colosseum–Almost
Promptly at 9:45 am, only 1 hour and 45 minutes past the tour start time, our guide leads those of us who have Colosseum tickets marked 9:15 am to another loooooong line. This is the line for all the Skip-the-Line group tours. As I said, it’s long.
Security Line at the Colosseum
We wait for another twenty minutes while the guide finally explains why progress that morning has been unusually slow. I’m at least heartened to find out that the current process is not normal. Apparently, there was a security incident (bomb scare?) a few days earlier, and since May 1 (it’s May 3rd), new procedures using a new security firm are being instituted.
Unfortunately, thorough testing is lacking so chaos reigns as the Colosseum ticket takers are obliged to enter everyone’s ID information into the computer and new security personnel are stationed at the entrances to the actual Colosseum to again check IDs and tickets.
Entering the Colosseum
We finally reach the front of the Skip-the-Line group tour line and enter the outer perimeter of the Colosseum.
It’s big. Really big—much bigger than it looks from the road with massive columns that soar way up into the blue Roman sky. Inside, the arches are truly impressive. Roman engineering is a marvel.
The guide starts her spiel while leading us to yet another line. She tells us that construction of the Colosseum began between 70 and 72 CE during the reign of the Emperor Vespasian. Before then, the area had been a lake on the grounds of Nero’s Domus Aurea (golden house).
Nero was not popular, to say the least, and so the decision to replace his private lake with a public amphitheater hosting thousands of locals was a great way to erase him from recent history.
The next line moves a little quicker. The security people check IDs and then we line up for the security screening. As usual, people walk through the scanner with their pockets bulging with Euros so back they must go while everyone waits. Sigh.
Not Everyone Loves Rome
The guide takes a break from her history lesson and cheerfully asks two people in the group where they are from. They reply that they are from Austria and that never again will they come to Rome because it is horrible and dirty. I am offended on behalf of both myself and the guide who smiles gamely but I can see is a trifle nonplussed. I mean, rude much? Apparently, the Austrians booked into a hotel that is less than stellar and that has colored their whole opinion of one of my favorite cities in the world.
I want to tell them that the place we’re staying in is absolutely wonderful—clean, spacious and in an excellent location. Here’s the link to our serviced apartment called Viam 6B. It truly is one of the best places we’ve stayed in Rome, ever.
Perhaps the Austrians decided to cheap out. Rome is a fabulous place to visit, but accommodations are not budget friendly. But then you can say that about just about every destination in Europe in recent years. The days of Europe on $5 a day (or even $100 or $200 a day) belong to the middle of the last century.
The guide decides not to ask the rest of the group about their experience. The mood is already a bit iffy considering we’ve all stood in lines for more than two hours for our first-into-the-Colosseum tour and haven’t actually started touring the Colosseum. We are in it, but only just.
The next line moves a little quicker. The security people check IDs and then we line up for the security screening. As usual, people walk through the scanner with their pockets bulging with coins so back they must go while everyone waits. Sigh.
Climbing to the Top of the Colosseum
And then, finally, we’re in and the tour officially begins. The guide talks to us for quite a while about the history of the Colosseum and then invites us to trudge up three flights of very steep steps to look out over the arena.
We emerge into a surging Sargasso Sea of visitors all packed cheek by jowl along the railing much like the spectators must have done during the Colosseum’s heyday. Everyone’s snapping selfies (something that wasn’t done during the days of the Roman empire) and I suppose communing with their inner gladiator.
We walk and walk and walk some more around the perimeter to a slightly less crowded stretch of railing, and get our one minute of time to snap pics of the ancient amphitheater.
Yes, it’s an impressive place for sure. In its day, up to 70,000 screaming Romans watched gladiatorial combat, executions, triumphal celebrations, and other spectacles. Today, approximately 16,000 people visit the Colosseum every single day. So although the place feels very crowded to me, it is positively empty compared to what it would have been back when the arena floor was covered in sand to better absorb the blood.
The guide talks about how wild beasts were starved for days before being let loose to gnaw on convicts, Christian martyrs, and anyone else the Emperor didn’t like. It’s the odd interesting fact such as this that you get from a guided tour.
Is A Guided Tour of the Rome Colosseum Worth the Wait?
So, should you opt for a guided tour of Rome’s most famous monument, check it out on your own, or forget about it and do something that doesn’t involve rubbing shoulders (literally) with thousands of strangers?
You may have guessed my opinion, which is Door #3. The entire tour/ordeal lasted about three hours, with the smallest number of minutes devoted to the tour and the largest to waiting for the tour.
Now, to be fair, the extra security measures ate up a goodly chunk of that three hours. I don’t know if these measures will become the norm going forward, in which case be prepared for waits, or if it’s temporary. You’ll have to check that out before you book.
I don’t blame the tour guide for all the waiting. She was doing her best in difficult circumstances and to her credit remained cheerful and upbeat throughout. I gave her a 5 Euro tip which appeared to surprise her, but hey, I figure she’d earned it.
Most people either didn’t tip or gave her 5 euros for their entire party which I thought was a bit cheap of them. Tips are not required, but I think it’s a good idea to give the guide a little extra considering they probably don’t get paid all that much, and it’s a challenging job at the best of times.
Touring the Colosseum On Your Own
What about the second option—see the Colosseum on your own? I think it may be marginally the better option because you don’t need to arrive at a location two hours ahead of when you get in. Instead, you can go straight to the ticket line and take your chances. The wait could be 10 minutes or two hours.
You could also buy your ticket online. You’ll still need to stand in line-ups, but not for quite so long. It’s difficult to say. We bought our “skip-the-line” tickets to Pompeii online and still had to wait in line about 20 minutes to exchange the online tickets for real tickets.
When To Visit the Colosseum
I think the moral of the story is that whatever way you slice it, sites like the Colosseum are really, really popular. You can try to beat the crowds, but I don’t think in any universe you’ll get around waiting in long lines.
My advice? Either visit the Colosseum during the off-season (November to March) when crowds are thinner, or forget about it and go see some of the city’s other awesome sites.
Tours of the Colosseum
If you do opt for a tour (and I’m just saying, buyer beware), then GetYourGuide has plenty of tours to choose from. I suggest choosing a tour that includes a ticket to the Colosseum and the Forum so you won’t need to line up to buy your ticket separately.
Also, you may be better off booking a tour in the late afternoon or opt for one of the evening tours instead of the morning. I felt like everyone fueled up on their hotel breakfast as early as possible and made a beeline for the Colosseum as their first stop of the day. Possibly later in the day may be less frantic.
Other Sites in Rome
Rome is chock-a-block full of amazing things to see and do. Here are some of my favorite sites in Rome. You’ll note that I don’t include big ticket items like the Vatican Museum, St. Peter’s, the Pantheon, and the Trevi Fountain, all of which are over-run with visitors.
These are just a sampling. There are also a ton of fabulous churches, some with Roman foundations.
My Favorite Activity in Rome
For me, my favorite Rome activity is walking around the various neighborhoods and avoiding the bottleneck areas around the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, St. Peter’s Square, and especially the Trevi Fountain. If you want to experience any of those places crowd-free, either swing by late at night or go for a very early morning stroll.
Here’s a shot taken on our way home after a scrumptious dinner in a restaurant on an atmospheric side street just steps from where we stayed at Viam 6B, which was not far from the Spanish Steps.
Accommodation Options in Rome
On my latest trip to Rome, I stayed in two places in Rome because I broke up the 2-week stay with a 5-day trip south to Naples and Paestum (read about my visit to the incomparable Naples Archaeological Museum).
For the first week, I stayed at Sant’Angelo Apartments in the Jewish Ghetto area of Rome, very close to a lot of Roman ruins in addition to the Capitoline Museum and the Piazza Venezia, site of the Victor Emmanuel monument. The apartment was very atmospheric and in an excellent location for exploring ancient Rome.
After touring the Naples area, I returned to Rome and stayed at Viam 6B, located between the Spanish Steps and the Piazza Popolo–a very upscale and chi-chi part of Rome with lots of designer stores. I preferred the location of the first place because the area was much less touristy and very medieval-feeling. However, the apartment at Viam 6B, was very modern and comfortable and included a beautiful outdoor terrace. It was also staffed which is nice for getting directions and ordering taxis.
But both places were great and I’d cheerfully stay in either on my next trip to Rome.
More Tour Options for Rome
Touring major sites such as the Colosseum and Vatican in Rome can get tiring. Why not take a break and opt for a more relaxing experience, such as this food tour of the lively Trastevere District (one of my favorite areas of Rome).
If you enjoy walking tours, I can recommend the tours offered by GuruWalks. Here are a few of the tours available in Rome.
Conclusion
Have you visited the Colosseum in Rome recently and not found it crowded? Do you have any tips for how to have an enjoyable visit? Please share in the comments below.
Posts About Rome
Here are some more posts about Rome, one of my very favorite cities in the world. I’ve visited eight times, and I’m not done yet!
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