Dolomites in northern Italy

One Week in Northern Italy: Recommendations for an Artsy Trip

This one-week itinerary for touring Nothern Italy provides a taste of stately Turin and sophisticated Milan, along with the deliciously jagged Dolomite mountains and the Italian Lakes.

Although my itinerary covers the high points, consider spending more time at the lakes (Maggiore, Orta, Como, Iseo, and Garda) or hiking in the Dolomites. The views are stunning and the livin’ easy.

Pinterest graphic with the text One Week Itinerary Northern Italy over a pciture of the castle at Sirmione on Lake Garda above the text and a picture of Milan Cathedral below the text.

Why Tour Northern Italy?

This area of Italy is sometimes skipped in favor of Tuscany, Umbria, Rome and beyond to the Campania and Sicily. But I loved touring Northern Italy because it’s like a different country compared to other regions of Italy.

It’s still Italian with great food and plenty of amazing cultural sights, but it also feels much more Germanic as a result of its proximity to Austria, Switzerland, and Germany. I found the people more reserved than their southern neighbors, albeit still helpful and friendly.

Interesting Cities

The two main cities in Northern Italy are Turin and Milan. There are also some wonderful places to explore in the Veneto, such as Padua and Vicenza, but in this post, I’m focusing only on the area from Turin in the far west near the border with France to Bolzano near the border with Austria in the north.

Turin and Milan are both worth a few days of your time.

View of Milan Cathedral at sunset; the cathedral is a must-see on a one-week itinerary in northern Italy
Milan Cathedral–a must-see in Northern Italy

Stunning Landscapes

The other reason for spending time in Northern Italy is to explore the spectacular landscapes of the Italian Lakes and the Dolomites.

Getting Around Northern Italy

Taking Trains and Tours

You can travel easily by train between Turin and Milan and then take day tours to explore the Italian lakes and some nearby cities. See the section on the Italian Lakes below for suggested day tours of the lakes that depart from Milan.

Driving in Northern Italy

If you’re driving, you’ll be able to explore more of the Dolomites and take side trips to cities like Verona. We found driving in Northern Italy to be quite easy, although the traffic around Milan can be horrendous. There are a lot of roads and a lot of people.

Turn on your GPS and focus. More than a few times, we’ve missed turn-offs and ended up navigating spaghetti-like mazes of roads before finding our way to where we needed to be.

Drivers can travel right up into the Dolomites along twisty mountain roads and check out charming towns like Bolzano. On the other hand, you don’t need a car in Turin and Milan. We book hotels on the outskirts that have free parking and then take a tram or bus into the city center.

Overview of A One-Week Itinerary in Northern Italy

Here’s my suggested one-week itinerary in Northern Italy:

  • One night in Turin
  • Four nights in Milan with a day trip to the Lakes OR two nights in Milan and two nights at Lake Como
  • Two nights in the Dolomites

Highlights of your one-week itinerary include visiting the Museo Egizio in Milan, taking a boat trip on one of the lakes, touring Milan Catheral, and hiking in the Dolomites.

Turin

Located in the northwest corner of Northern Italy near the French border, Turin (Torino in Italian) is an unpretentious city with a lovely central core and the not-to-be-missed Museo Egizio–one of the largest museums in the world solely dedicated to ancient Egypt.

I recommend you stay at least one night in Turin and spend a half-day exploring the Museo Egizio.

Museo Egizio

The Museo Egizio is enormous and can be very crowded.

Buy your tickets in advance and go early. The three floors are packed with beautifully curated exhibits. If you’re an ancient Egypt fan, you’ll be in heaven. And even if ancient Egypt isn’t your thing, you’ll find plenty to entertain you.

Here are some options for touring the Museo Egizio and Turin:

Staying in Turin

We were driving when we visited Turin, so we chose a hotel that was a little ways from the centro. The restful Parco Hotel Sassi fit the bill. We parked the car for free, relaxed for a while on our terrace overlooking beautiful grounds, and then took a short tram ride into Turin. Highly recommended.

Torino's Piazza Castello with tramway
Torino’s Piazza Castello with tramway

After our afternoon in Turin touring the Museo Egizio and walking around the large central piazza, we took the tram back to the hotel and walked to a local restaurant for dinner. The place was empty when we arrived and packed with locals by the time we left.

That meal ranks as one of our most memorable, both for the food and for the friendliness of the servers. We were the only tourists in the place.

TIP: Seek out restaurants recommended by your hotel and that are frequented by locals. If you go when the restaurant opens (usually around 7 pm), you’ll have the place to yourself. If you prefer conviviality and noise with your pasta and pizza, wait a few hours to join the crowds of Italian families that start pouring in around 9 pm.

The area around Turin is called the Piedmont and was the location of many of the sports venues used for the 2006 Olympics. If you have extra time, spend a day or two driving around this scenic area.

Milan

On both of my visits to Milan, I was struck by how stately and calm this Northern Italian city is, particularly compared to Rome and Naples.

I remember riding in a taxi on my first trip to Milan. We’d just taken the train from wonderful, frenetic Naples where a taxi ride was an adventure and stop signs merely suggestions, and spent several days in Rome. In Milan, the driver swung us into lanes of slow-moving, very well-behaved traffic and steered us sedately down wide avenues. I felt like I was on a main road through a particularly safe and dull Canadian suburb.

I commented to the driver that Milan seemed very different from Rome. She harrumphed and said, “This is Milan. We are not like Roma.” I got the impression she considered that a selling point.

I’m always fascinated by regional differences within a country. Certainly the differences betwen the north and the south in Italy are particularly noticeable!

Milan is Different

The taxi driver was right. Milan is not like its more rambunctious southern neighbors. The streets are wide and the city quite spread out. Traffic is dense. However, people actually drive in the correct lanes and avoid piling into intersections and honking.

Although Rome is notorious for its pickpockets, the only time we encountered petty theft in Italy was in Milan. At our hotel near the train station, Gregg witnessed the theft of the hotel manager’s wallet from the front desk when the manager’s back was turned. The manager gave chase but to no avail. So, the moral of that story is to never leave your valuables unattended.

On the other hand, I once left my purse containing our passports and my wallet on the counter at a very seedy hotel in Nice, only for it to still be there when, in a panic, I returned thirty minutes later.

You never know, but always err on the side of caution.

Top Sights in Milan

On a one-week itinerary touring Northern Italy, Milan is worth at least two days of your time or one very full day. I suggest you spend four days in Milan and spend one or two of them taking day tours to the Italian Lakes or spending two nights in Milan and driving to the lakes for another two nights.

If you enjoy shopping, set aside an afternoon to check out what’s on offer in Italy’s most sophisticated fashion city.

Here are the big draws in Milan.

The Duomo of Milan

The Milan Duomo is one of the largest Gothic cathedrals in Christendom, with a roof bristling with a forest of spires topped with sculptures. Make sure to buy your tickets in advance to avoid the long lines (see tour suggestions below).

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

After visiting the Duomo, head across the piazza to enter the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Billed as an aesthetically pleasing shopping arcade, the Galleria is worth escaping into from the sun or rain to browse designer shops, such as Louis Vuitton and Prada if your budget stretches that far, or to enjoy a coffee and pastry if it doesn’t.

The 19th-century glass ceiling is magnificent.

La Scala Opera House

La Scala is located at the far end of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. You’ll reach it after walking through the galleria from the Duomo. As one of the world’s most famous opera houses, it’s a must-see for music fans. Book a guided tour of the auditorium and the attached museum.

Sforza Castle

Wander through the hip Brera district, with its funky boutiques and trendy bars, to get to the imposing Sforza Castle (Castello Sforzesco).

If you’re a fan of the Medici series on Netflix (I’ve written a post about it over on Art In Fiction), you’ll remember Galeazzo Maria Sforza, one of the Sforza family’s most famous dukes. He was renowned both for his cruelty and for his patronage of music. Spoiler alert: he meets a bad end in Season 2 and in real life.

The Castello Sforzesco contains several worthwhile museums as well as Michelangelo’s unfinished Pieta. Also view the sala delle asse, a room with walls and ceiling painted by da Vinci and depicting intertwining trunks with leaves and fruit.

Castello Sforzesco in Milan
Castello Sforzesco in Milan

Purchase your tickets to Castello Sforzesco in advance and go early to beat the crowds (as usual!). Here’s a link to the Castello Sforzesco website.

Da Vinci’s Last Supper

Leonardo da Vinci, of Mona Lisa fame (among many other things), is also renowned as the painter of The Last Supper. Located in the refectory at the monastery of Santa Maria delle Grazie, the iconic fresco tops the list of must-see places in Milan.

But make sure to pre-book! I went there without a reservation in the vain hope I’d get in, although I should have known better. Alas, ’twas not to be. The person at the ticket counter actually laughed at me when I said I wanted a ticket for that day.

Don’t make the same mistake. The Last Supper is a major tourist attraction in Milan and rightly so. If you want to see it, buy your tickets online as far in advance as possible.

THe Last Supper Fresco by Leonardo da Vinci
The Last Supper – Paris Orlando [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Wikimedia Commons

As soon as you know your travel dates in Milan, buy your tickets. Don’t wait until you get to Milan. Trust me on this!

Once you do get inside to view da Vinci’s masterpiece, you can stay for only 15 minutes.

Sightseeing Options in Milan

Here’s a selection of artsy sightseeing options for touring Milan. Other sites include Leonardo – The World of Leonardo and the art gallery: Pinacoteca di Brera

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The Italian Lakes

This region is simply gorgeous. In fact, you’ll quickly run out of adjectives to describe the unique combo of mountain vistas and shining lake views. No wonder so many ultra-rich people have villas in the region.

My one-week itinerary of Northern Italy covers the high points of the area, but if you have more time, spend it at the lakes Maggiore, Orta, Como, Iseo, and Garda; each has its own character and charm. Your best bet for a quick visit is to take a small group tour that includes two or three of the lakes, or a boat trip.

Although a round trip of the lakes covers only about 100 miles, you’re best to find one or two spots to stay in and enjoy rather than try to see everything.

Highlights include:

  • Bellagio on Lake Como from where you can take ferries and water taxies to other towns on the lake. You could spend all day cruising up and down the lake, enjoying the breezes and the stunning views, and looking out for celebrities sunning themselves on the terraces of their lakeside villas.
  • Lake Garda is the largest of the lakes, with the northern half surrounded by mountains and the southern half flat. North is better!
  • Sirmione on Lake Garda is known for its thermal baths and the Rocca Scaligera, a medieval castle that overlooks the lake.
  • Lake Maggiore and the Barromean Islands with their ornate gardens.
Rocca Scaligera in Sirmione on Lake Garda
Bellagio on beautiful Lake Como in the Italian Lakes, a highlight of a one-week itinerary touring Northern Italy
Bellagio on beautiful Lake Como in the Italian Lakes

Tours of the Italian Lakes

The Dolomites

The super-jagged, needle-like peaks of the Dolomites mountain range (the Dolomiti) have long fascinated me. They don’t look real, and yet they are. We’ve driven a few times in the area, and I’d like to return to do some hiking.

Allocate at least two days to this region during a one-week tour around Northern Italy.

Bolzano

Bolzano is a pleasant town considered the gateway to the Dolomites. We were impressed by the distinctive architecture of many of the buildings, some painted in pastel colors.

View of the city of Bolzano, Italy
View of the city of Bolzano, Italy

A big draw in Bolzano is the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology. Visit “Ötzi”, a well-preserved mummy of a man from about 3300 BC and the world’s oldest natural human mummy.

For more information, check the museum website.

Alpine Options

If you’re driving, head a little farther into the mountains and base yourself in Castelrotto. From there, go hiking in the Alpe di Siusi, a large Alpine meadow. Cable cars whisk you from stations near your hotel up to the meadow.

View of peaks in the Dolomites from Alpe di Siusi
View of peaks in the Dolomites from Alpe di Siusi

Another gorgeous location in both winter and summer is Alta Badia. Check the town’s excellent website for more information.

Carrying on South Into More Italy

If you’re driving into Italy through Bolzano, your next stop will probably be Venice. Read my recommendations for Venice and Ravenna.

If you’re driving into Italy through Turin, you’ll likely head south into Tuscany and Umbria, perhaps stopping on the way to check out the Cinque Terre.

You can also catch the high-speed train from Milan south to Florence and Rome.

Conclusion

Have you toured Northern Italy? What did you think? Do you have suggestions for must-sees (especially artsy-oriented must-sees) to share with other travelers? Add them to the comments below.

Here are more posts to help you plan your Italian travels:

San Gimingnano in Tuscany

Best Itineraries for Exploring Tuscany, Umbria and La Dolce Vita

If you love incredible art, gorgeous landscapes, fabulous food, and world-class wines, then consider dedicating at least a week (preferably two) to exploring Tuscany and Umbria.

Along the way, you’re sure to experience la dolce vita–the sweet life.

I’ve put together some suggested itineraries for exploring this gorgeous region of Italy. No matter how many times I return, I always find new things to see.

And I never get tired to returning to some of my old favorites like Siena and San Gimignano.

Pinterest graphic with the text "Exploring Tuscany, Umbria & La Dolce Vita: over two pictures. The top picture shows wine glasses and a sunset over a vineyard. The bottom picture shows the skyline of Siena in Tuscany.

Itineraries at a Glance

Tuscany

Umbria

Map of Tuscany & Umbria

The map of Tuscany and Umbria includes all the destinations mentioned in this post. Click a number to read more about the location.

Trip map created with Wanderlog, the best trip planner app on iOS and Android

Suggested Itineraries for Exploring Tuscany & Umbria

Explore both Tuscany and Umbria by car or home-base in one or more of the towns and take day tours to others.

For Tuscany, one strategy is to spend a three nights in Florence (see my suggestions below for enjoying this most Renaissance of cities), three nights in Siena, and one or two nights in San Gimignano. During those five days in the Tuscan countryside, be sure to take a wine tour.

For Umbria, divide your time between the three main towns: Orvieto, Perugia, and Assisi, and reserve time for enjoying the rugged countryside.

If you want to explore Tuscany and Umbria by car, pick up your rental car at the Florence airport. Avoid picking your car up at the train station or some other area in central Florence. You don’t need the headache of navigating your way out of the city.

After picking up your car at the Florence airport, you’ll be out on the highway within minutes.

TIP: Bear in mind that driving in Tuscany and Umbria can be slow going. If you home-base in a specific area or town, reserve a few days for just staying put and enjoying la dolce vita. Spending every day driving the twisting, narrow roads can get tiring.

After a week (or maybe two!) in Tuscany, spend another week in Umbria if time allows. Perugia or Assisi are good choices.

Here are my recommendations for top towns to visit in Tuscany and Umbria.

Tuscany

If you have only a week to see Tuscany, I suggest you make time for Florence and two of the other towns, such as Siena (my favorite) and San Gimignano, with perhaps a day trip to one other town, such as Montalcino or Volterra.

For accommodation recommendations, see Where to Stay in Italy: My Best Picks.

Florence

You kinda have to visit Florence (#1 on the map) because it’s, well, Florence. A sizable percentage of Italy’s finest art is found in Florence, and you owe it to yourself to see it. Unfortunately, half of the known universe descends on Florence every day (or at least that’s how it feels). I remember wondering if the medieval Ponte Vecchio was strong enough to bear the throngs streaming across it.

The famous Ponte Vecchio in Florence, Italy
Ponte Vecchio in Florence

TIP: Combat the crowds by visiting the hot spots, such as the Uffizi, the Duomo, and the Piazza della Signoria in front of the Palazzo Vecchio, early in the morning or late in the day.

During the middle of the day, opt for lesser known but still amazing sites, such as the Masaccio frescoes in the Brancacci Chapel across the river from central Florence and the Museo Nazionale di San Marco which houses the frescoes by Fra Angelico.

Here are sightseeing suggestions for Florence. Make sure you purchase tickets ahead of time for the Uffizi and the Accademia.

Siena

Spend at least two nights, preferably more, in Siena (#2). Siena is my favorite city in Tuscany, with enough great artsy sightseeing to keep you as busy as you want to be. You’ll also have time to just hang out in Siena–walk the narrow cobbled streets, relax in the Campo, and eat a great meal or two complemented by good Tuscan wine.

TIP: When you arrive in Siena, head first to the Campo. If the weather is dry, plop down on the 700-year-old bricks and soak up the history.

Piazza del Campo in Siena, Italy at twilight
Piazza del Campo in Siena, Italy at twilight

The Campo can get very crowded during the day. Arrive later in the afternoon, enjoy a glass of wine at one of the cafés bordering the piazza, and watch the crowds disperse as the sun turns the Torre Mangia golden. Your glass of wine will be overpriced, but who cares? You have a ringside seat to one of Europe’s most beautiful public piazzas.

Wine Tour

Allocate one of your days in Tuscany to taking a wine tour of the region. Choose a tour that includes Montalcino, home of the scrumptious (and potent) Brunello di Montalcino. The tour I took included a marvelous three-course lunch and visits to three wineries that also included tastings. Let your guide do the driving! Here’s a good option from GetYourGuide:

https://www.getyourguide.com/siena-l435/montalcino-tour-by-minivan-with-brunello-wine-tasting-t8411/?ranking_uuid=8850d226-a5a3-475e-8a24-10260de82bc1

Staying in Siena

You’ll find good accommodation options in Siena in the post Where to Stay in Italy: My Best Picks.

Tours in Siena

Here are more sightseeing options in Siena.

San Gimignano

Yes, it’s crowded during the day with tour busses, but once they leave, you’ll have beautiful San Gimignano (#3), medieval city of towers, all to yourself. Enjoy top-class restaurants and stroll flood-lit streets that, apart from the souvenir shops, have barely changed in 700 years.

For an in-depth look at San Gimignano and why it deserves top billing in your itinerary, read Exploring San Gimignano in Tuscany.

And if you’re looking for something to read while staying in San Gimignano, consider downloading The Towers of Tuscany, my award-winning novel about a female artist in San Gimignano and Siena in the 1300s.

Stay overnight in San Gimignano so you can enjoy this magical city without the crowds. Good options are the Hotel Pescille and the Cappuccina Country Resort, both outside the city so you’ll need a car.

Volterra

Fans of the Medici series on Netflix will recognize the town hall in Volterra (#4) as the stand-in for Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio. Volterra–known as the City of Alabaster–is considerably less crowded than its neighbor, San Gimignano, and has just as much (maybe more) to offer the artsy traveler.

View of the countryside from the walls of scenic Volterra in Tuscany
Scenic Volterra in Tuscany

Noteworthy sites include the medieval frescoes in the Palazzo dei Priori, the remains of the Etruscan Acropolis (the Etruscans were big in these parts), the wonderful Guarnacci Etruscan Museum (more Etruscans), and the Roman Theater complex that includes the ruins of 3rd-century baths.

Read more about the Etruscans in the Artsy Sightseeing section of the Italy Destinations page.

Lucca

The walled city of Lucca (#5) is a charming place to spend half a day. Walk along the top of the walls, visit Lucca Cathedral (Lucca is known as the city of a hundred churches so there’s more to choose from), and breathe in the medieval atmosphere.

When we visited, a group of young people dressed in medieval garb were presenting a flag-waving demonstration to the accompaniment of some serious medieval drumming. We were entranced.

Medieval flag-waving in Lucca
Medieval flag-waving in Lucca

Pisa

I’ve visited Pisa (#6) once, and that’s enough for me, although perhaps I’m being unfair. The area around the famous Leaning Tower teems with tacky souvenir stalls. I like a good tacky souvenir as much as the next gal, but even I reached my limit in Pisa.

The Leaning Tower of Pisa and the Duomo, Pisa, IOtaly
The Leaning Tower of Pisa and the Duomo

The cathedral is worth visiting, and you must get someone to take the obligatory shot of you holding up the tower. Drop in to Pisa if you’re driving and you have time; otherwise, don’t sweat it. Tuscany has many more treasures to offer.

Other Towns in Tuscany

Tuscany is one of the largest provinces in Italy, with many worthwhile hill towns to visit, including Montalcino, Montepulciano, Monteriggioni, Cortono, and Pienza.

These are all best visited by car. I’ve also traveled in Tuscany by bus, which works fine if you really don’t like driving.

Driving in Tuscany is relatively easy but not speedy. The roads are narrow and twisting. Slow down, relax, and enjoy the journey. Oh – and make way for locals who don’t ‘do’ slow.

TIP: Never (and I mean never!) attempt to drive into a Tuscan hill town. First, you risk getting a stiff fine (being a tourist is no excuse), second, you risk ripping one or both of your side mirrors off your rental car, and third, you risk never again speaking to your partner.

Find the parking lot outside the city walls and walk into the town. Yes, you’ll likely be walking uphill (that’s why they are called hill towns), but some towns such as San Gimignano thoughtfully provide an elevator to take you from the car park to the town. Others don’t, but if you’re going to travel in Tuscany, you need to be up for some good, stiff walking.

Umbria

Umbria (#7) has much to offer the artsy traveler. The landscape is just as stunning as the landscape in Tuscany, with even more rugged mountains, and hill towns as interesting and historic. Highlights include Perugia, Assisi, Gubbio, and Orvieto.

Perugia

Perugia (#8) is the capital of Umbria and one of its largest towns. We enjoyed strolling around the central piazza and ducking into the cathedral. Perugia is laid-back and not overly crowded.

View of the scenic Piazza IV Novembre, main square, a masterpiece of medieval architecture in Perugia, Italy
View of the scenic Piazza IV Novembre, main square and masterpiece of medieval architecture in Perugia, Italy

The highlight of our visit to Perugia was discovering the Civic Museum at the Palazzo della Penna. There, we viewed the work of Gerardo Dottori, the leader of the Umbrian Futurists and one of the founders of Aeropainting.

The Palazzo della Penna is one of Perugia’s little-known museums that’s worth seeking out. It’s constructed on the ruins of a Roman amphitheater and an ancient Roman road.

One of the highlights of artsy traveling is looking for these lesser-known but amazing small museums (of which Italy has many). They are almost always deserted, and most contain marvelous collections.

Assisi

One of the hippest things I saw during our visit to Assisi (#9) wasn’t even on the tourist radar. I spied a small sign in a side street advertising a special exhibition of medieval costumes. As an historical novelist with a yen for all things medieval and Italian, I’d found my bliss. Here’s a few of the costumes included in the exhibition.

medieval costume in assisi
medieval costume in museum in Assisi
medieval costume in museum in Assisi
medieval costume in museum in Assisi
medieval costume in museum in Assisi
medieval costume in museum in Assisi

When traveling to small towns in Tuscany and Umbria, check at the tourist office for local exhibitions and events and keep an eye out for posters. You never know what gems you’ll find.

Also taking place while we were in Assisi was an annual festival where all the locals dressed in medieval garb and paraded through the streets. Many other events were included in the festival, but we had neglected to get tickets.

More reason to do your research before you go!

The big draw to Assisi is, of course, the Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi, with its marvelous frescoes by Giotto. Start your visit to Assisi here, then walk up into the medieval town, and from there continue up to the fortezza for some stunning views.

Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi
Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi

Gubbio

What a delightful town! Nicknamed the City of Fools, Gubbio (#10) is unpretentious and relaxed. We spent a pleasant day wandering its cobbled streets, enjoying lunch in the panoramic Piazza Grande, and visiting the municipal museum.

One of the fun attractions of Gubbio is the Big Barrel, otherwise known as La Botte dei Canonici. The barrel is reputed to be the world’s largest and oldest. It’s worth a photo op, and there’s a gift shop. Entrance is free, so if you pass it during your wanderings around Gubbio, pop in and find out more.

We also checked out the Roman Theatre outside the walls of Gubbio near where we parked.

Roman Theatre outside the walls of Gubbio.
The Roman Theatre outside the walls of Gubbio

Remember–always park outside the city walls!

Orvieto

The stunning cathedral is the draw to Orvieto (#11), a beautiful Umbrian town perched atop a volcanic plug and worth an overnight stay. Unlike its better known Tuscan counterparts, Orvieto is relaxed and approachable. Park in the large lot at the bottom of the hill and take the elevator or escalator to the medieval upper town.

The facade of the cathedral is unusual in its inclusion of golden mosaics, sculpture, and stained glass.

The stunning facade of the Cathedral at Orvieto
The stunning facade of the Cathedral at Orvieto

For more information about what to see in Orvieto, check out this article by Rick Steves, my fave travel writer.

Where to Stay

For detailed information about where to stay in Tuscany and Umbria, have a look at my post on Recommended Places to Stay in Italy That Will Make Great Memories.

Enter your destination below to see a map of accommodation options in the region.

 

Tours in Tuscany and Umbria

Here are some GetYourGuide tour options in Tuscany.

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And here are some tour options in Umbria.

Powered by GetYourGuide

Conclusion

Have you visited Tuscany and Umbria? Share your recommendations in the comments below. And to further excite your about this amazing region, here are some more posts about what to see as an Artsy Traveler in Italy:

Guggenheim museum in Bilbao, Spain, one of the top ten modern art museums in Europe

12 of the Best Modern Art Museums in Europe

Are you a fan of modern art? If so, then you’ll find plenty of art thrills in Europe, where some of the best modern art and contemporary art museums in the world are located.

In this post, I’ve chosen mostly large modern art museums in Europe that feature a variety of artists, mostly from the 20th century, and modern art museums in Europe have collections that span the decades.

My focus is on modern art so you won’t find museums like the Prado and the Louvre in this post. But you will find the Pompidou, the Guggenheim Bilbao and the Tate Modern!

A travel pin with the text “Best Modern Art Museums in Europe” overlaid on a metallic facade of the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao. The website "artsytraveler.com" is displayed at the bottom.

As a life-long lover of modern art (check out my husband Gregg Simpson’s art and you’ll see why!), I’m a bit of a kid in a candy store when it comes to finding awesome modern art museums in Europe.

You’ll be spoiled for choice!

Highlights at a Glance

  • The iconic architecture of the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao in Spain’s evocative Basque Country
  • Picasso’s Guernica at the Reina Sofia in Madrid, Spain–so much more powerful in person than in reproductions
  • The stunning outdoor art installations at the Kröller-Müller Museum near Otterlo in the Netherlands
  • The collection of 20th century modern masters on the 4th floor of the Pompidou in Paris
  • The location and ambiance of the Fondation Maeght in the hills above the French Riviera near the delightful village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence

Check for Exhibitions

Modern art museums in Europe often host temporary exhibitions showcasing the best of contemporary art.

Before you set off for Europe, take some time to check for special exhibitions in the places you’re visiting. Many times, I’ve changed my itinerary on the fly to catch an exhibition before it closes or to take in one at its start.

One of the great pleasures of traveling is switching gears halfway through a trip—to zig when you planned to zag. Stay open to possibilities when you travel. Often, you’ll meet someone who’ll tell you about a must-see art museum that you’ve never heard of.

On a recent trip to Porto in Portugal, we were told about a special exhibition of the work of M. C. Escher. What a treat! We never would have known about it because of its location in an exhibition space rather than a museum.

Chat with servers at dinner and strike up a conversation with other travelers you meet on the train or at your hotel. People love to share recommendations!

Modern Art Focus

As I mentioned earlier, this post focuses only on modern art museums in Europe that have significant and varied modern art collections.

What do I mean by modern art? I’m a huge fan of 20th-century art from about the turn of the century to the 1960s. I also appreciate some (not all) of the contemporary art created post-1960.

Most of the art museums covered in this post primarily exhibit traditional modern art. That sounds like an oxymoron, but if you’re an art fan, you’ll know what I mean!

Modern art—as distinct from contemporary art—encompasses the work of a slew of big names. These include Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró, Henri Matisse, Georgia O’Keeffe, Rene Magritte… the list goes on and on and on.

In this post, I list only modern art museums in Europe that feature works by modern masters in their permanent collections.

Map of Modern Art Museums in Europe

From the Louvre to the Tate Modern, the modern art museums in Europe are vast and varied.

Here are the locations of all the modern art museums covered in the post–from Bilbao (#1) in Spain to the Tate St. Ives (#12) in Cornwall, England.

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a road trip planner on iOS and Android

Although not included in this post, another excellent modern art museum well worth a visit is the Ludwig Museum in Cologne. For more about this museum check out my post Cologne’s Museum Ludwig: Best Bet for Modern Art Lovers

Bilbao, Spain: The Guggenheim Museum

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao (#1 on the map) is worth the hype and worth the trip. Located in the Basque region of northeast Spain, Bilbao isn’t on the beaten tourist path.

But please, if you’re in northern Spain and within striking distance of Bilbao, find the time to spend a night there so you can spend a few hours exploring the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao.

The illuminated exterior of the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao at dusk. The modern metallic structure reflects warm lights, with the river running in the foreground.
Guggenheim Bilbao: Skip the Line  & Guided Tour

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao was built to revive the failing industrial city. How marvelous that the city bigwigs used art to pull their city out of the economic doldrums and place it firmly on the world cultural map.

The move was bold, even audacious, but it’s paid off spectacularly, thanks to Frank Gehry’s spectacular structure.

Now the Guggenheim Bilbao shows up in just about every Top Ten list of modern art museums worldwide.

Exterior of the Guggenheim Bilbao

The exterior of the Guggenheim Bilbao plays a major role in its appeal to art lovers. Stroll around outside the building to see the many amazing sculptures.

Most notable are Tall Trees and The Eye by Anish Kapoor, the massive spider Maman by Louise Bourgeois, and the wildly popular Puppy by Jeff Koons.

I defy anyone to stand in front of Puppy and not smile. He is adorable. That is, if a 43-foot tall, flower-encrusted West Highland Terrier can be called adorable. 

A massive floral sculpture of a dog titled Puppy by Jeff Koons outside the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao. The figure is covered in a vibrant patchwork of colorful flowers against a blue sky.
Guggenheim Bilbao: Skip the Line  & Guided Tour
Exterior of the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao with the sculpture Tall Tree & The Eye by Anish Kapoor. The reflective silver spheres contrast with the modern metallic facade of the museum.
Sculpture by Anish Kapoor
A giant bronze spider sculpture titled Maman by Louise Bourgeois outside the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao. Visitors walk beneath the towering sculpture, casting intricate shadows on the ground.
Sculpture called Maman by Louise Bourgeois

Inside the Guggenheim Bilbao

The museum’s interior is as compelling as its exterior.

On one of my two visits to Bilbao, I was lucky to catch a major exhibition of recent landscapes by David Hockney. The massive galleries and thoughtful curatorial choices made the exhibition one of my favorites, which is saying something.

Interior of the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, showing sweeping architectural curves and stone walls. The modern design features glass and steel elements with natural light pouring through the ceiling.
Guggenheim Bilbao: Skip the Line  & Guided Tour

I was also taken with the massive installations by Frank Serra. 

The whole complex with its gorgeous setting on the Nervion River really is miraculous. The museum attracts over 20 million visitors annually.

Now, that’s an art success story!

Exhibitions at the Guggenheim Bilbao change frequently, so check what’s on and then plan your visit accordingly. You won’t regret devoting time to exploring the Basque region of Spain. 

Practical Information for the Guggenheim Bilbao

Guggenheim Bilbao is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 7 pm. It’s closed on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day. Museum admission currently costs €15 for adults, €7.5 for seniors (65+) and students. Youths under 18 and Museum members are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.

Tours of the Guggenheim Bilbao

A great way to see the Guggenheim Bilbao is on a private tour if you have the spare funds, or a small group tour for the more budget-conscious. Modern art is sometimes not so easy to understand, and having a guide can really help you make sense of what you’re looking at.

You’ll also learn a lot about the stunning architecture and permanent installations such as Puppy and Maman. Here’s a guided tour offered through GetYourGuide.

Where to Stay in Bilbao

On both my trips to Bilbao, I stayed in excellent four-star hotels. Both were within walking distance of the Guggenheim Bilbao.

Catalonia Gran Vía Bilbao: In downtown Bilbao, this place is truly lovely with a very friendly staff and a good location for exploring more of Bilbao beyond the Guggenheim.

Hotel Meliá Bilbao: Situated right on the river, the modern hotel has all the amenities and is fairly easy to drive to.


Bratislava, Slovakia: Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum

Situated on the Danube as the name suggests and about 20 kilometers from Bratislava in the Slovak Republic, the Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum is billed as “one of the most romantic museums of modern art in Europe”.

The museum, opened in 2000, was founded by Gerard Meulensteen of Eindhoven, a Dutch collector and art patron, and Slovak gallerist Vincent Polakovič.

Night view of the Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum in Bratislava, Slovakia. The building, illuminated by bright lights, reflects onto the still river water under a deep blue sky.
Danubiana Meluensteen Art Museum website. Used with permission

The collection includes works by artists from the experimental CoBrA group in the Netherlands, such as Karel Appel and Eugen Brands . Also included are works by Sam Francis, Christo, Corneille, Pierre Alechinsky, and others. 

Plenty of quirky and colorful outdoor sculptures along with the dramatic setting on the Danube make this museum a must-see if you’re traveling to Bratislava.

Outdoor sculptures at the Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum in Bratislava, Slovakia. Geometric metal figures and colorful abstract shapes stand on a manicured lawn beside the river, surrounded by trees and a walking path.
Danubiana Meluensteen Art Museum website. Used with permission.

Practical Information for the Danubiana Meluensteen Art Museum

Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm. Museum admission currently costs €10 for adults, €5 for seniors (62+) and students. Children under 6, seniors (75+) and Museum members are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.

Where to Stay in Bratislava

The Danubiana Museum is a few kilometers up river from Bratislava itself where you’ll find these two hotels. Both are located in historic buildings and highly rated.

Marrol’s Boutique Hotel: Located in Bratislava city center, this hotel is rated 5-star, but the price is more like a 3-star. It looks amazing!

Arcadia Boutique Hotel: Centrally located in a 13th-century building in Bratislava’s Old Town. Rooms include antique furniture.


London, England: Tate Modern

I’ve visited the Tate Modern in London a few times and have mixed feelings about it, to be honest! It’s a monumental place and a huge accomplishment from an architectural perspective.

I mean, seriously—a power station?

It’s pretty darned amazing that the Swiss architecture firm Herzog & de Meuron could convert the Bankside power station into an art gallery and still keep much of the building’s original character.

The Tate Modern art museum in London, with its tall chimney and modern extension, viewed from across the River Thames on a clear day.
View of the Tate Modern from the Thames in London, England

However, I can’t say that I loved—or even liked—all the art exhibited in the Tate Modern. Several exhibits comprise contemporary and installation art, most of which was kind of hit or miss, in my opinion.

However, the special exhibitions can be worthwhile. I saw a wonderful retrospective of the work of American artist Georgia O’Keeffe on one visit, and an exhibition of international surrealism on another visit. My husband, Gregg Simpson, was honored to be included in the catalog for the latter exhibition.

Location of the Tate Modern

The location of the Tate Modern on the south side of the Thames, right across the new Millennium Bridge from St. Paul’s Cathedral, is a selling point. You can see the Tate Modern in the morning and then stroll across the bridge and visit St. Paul’s and the City in the afternoon.

You can also take in two Tates in a day. A good strategy is to start at the Tate Britain upriver. Check out the paintings by William Blake and some of the best works by the pre-Raphaelites. Then, hop on the Tate Boat at Millbank Pier and sail downriver to Bankside Pier to see the Tate Modern.

The Tate Boat runs every twenty to thirty minutes along the Thames.

And if you happen be down in St. Ives in Cornwall, don’t miss the Tate St. Ives.

Practical Information for the Tate Modern

Tate Modern is open daily from 10 am – 6 pm and the admission is free.

Tours of the Tate Modern

Why not take a tour of the Tate Modern with an expert guide? You’ll learn about the history and architecture of the gallery along with highlights of the collection. Here’s a guided tour offered through GetYourGuide:

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Where to Stay in London

I always stay around the West End so I’m within walking distance of the theaters, Trafalgar Square and two of my favorite art museums–the National Gallery and the Courtauld.

Here are three places I’ve stayed in that I recommend and that won’t break the bank (and are still four-star and comfy):

Wilde Aparthotel Covent Garden: Located steps from the Strand in the center of the action, the Wilde Aparthotel Covent Garden is an excellent choice. I even wrote a whole post about my stay there!

The Cavendish near Green Park is in a posh area and close to just about everything. When I stayed there, I was able to walk or take a bus everywhere I wanted to go. I didn’t once need to take the Tube!

Park Plaza Victoria London Hotel is located right across the street from Victoria Station and is a remarkably good deal for a modern, four-star hotel in the heart of London.


Madrid, Spain: Reina Sofia

The Reina Sofia is home to one of the most famous paintings of the 20th century—Guernica by Pablo Picasso.

You’ve likely seen Guernica many times in reproduction. However, seeing the “real thing” is a different story.

The massive mural in the Reina Sofía has pride of place in a room of its own. You can sense how enraged Picasso must have felt as he painted it.

Its graphic depiction of the bombing of the old Basque city of Gernika in April 1937 has become an iconic image of the brutality of war. 

A large outdoor mosaic version of Picasso's Guernica, depicting distorted figures and animals in shades of black, white, and gray, mounted on a stone wall with the inscription “Guernica Gernikara.”
Outdoor reproduction of Guernica by Picasso / Image by Almudena Sanz from Pixabay

As one of the premier modern art museums in Europe, the Reina Sofia combines a modern area with the arched hallways and barred windows of an old hospital. In several rooms, films representing specific 20th-century periods are running. Most are silent-era films, which makes following them a lot easier if your Spanish is minimal.

Included in the Reina Sofia are masterpieces by Salvador Dalí, Joan Miró, and Juan Gris, as well as a collection of over 22,400 works divided into three sections titled: The Irruption of the 20th Century: Utopia and Conflict (1900-1945)Is the War Over? Art in a Divided World (1945-1968), and From Revolt to Postmodernity (1962-1982).  

Visiting the Reina Sofía

The museum is located on the Art Walk (Paseo del Arte)—a one-kilometer stretch that also includes the must-see Prado Museum and the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum.

A black, abstract sculpture by Joan Miró, featuring curved shapes and smooth surfaces, sits on green grass at the Reina Sofia Museum in Madrid.
Get Skip-the-line Tickets to the Reina Sofia and see this little guy by Miró.

Practical Information for the Reina Sofia

Reina Sofia is open from daily except Tuesdays from 10 am to 9 pm (Sundays until 2:30 pm). Museum admission currently costs €12. The website has the latest rates.

Tours of the Reina Sofia

Explore the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía, Spain’s national museum of 20th-century art, on a guided tour and learn about the diverse collection.

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Where to Stay in Madrid

Stay as close to the centro as you can in Madrid. Largely traffic free, the centro is full of narrow streets and grand plazas, and not too far from Madrid’s three big museums, including the Reina Sofia.

ApartoSuites Jardines de Sabatini: I stayed here for two weeks and loved it! The location right across the street from the Royal Palace puts it about a ten minute walk from the centro, but still outside the traffic limited zone so you can drive there and park in the parking lot right next door. The staff are wonderful and the one-bedroom apartments are spacious and comfortable.

nQn Aparts & Suites Madrid: This place is even closer to the city center within steps of the Plaza Mayor.


Munich, Germany: Pinakothek der Moderne

The Pinakothek der Modern in central Munich is one of three Pinakotheks in Munich’s Kunstareal (art district).

The museum features an excellent collection of the works of German Expressionist artists. In addition, you’ll find works by modern masters, including Picasso, Miró, Kandinsky, Klee, and Marc.

Other exhibits are related to form and function in a section that features modern industrial design and manufacture, furniture, and appliances.

On Sundays, the admission price is significantly discounted—at least it was when I visited. After strolling through the galleries, stop by the café.

Practical Information for the Pinakothek der Moderne

Pinakothek der Moderne is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm (Thursdays to 8 pm). Museum admission currently costs €10 for adults, €7 for seniors (65+) and students. Youths under 18 are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.

Interesting Art Tour in Munich

After touring the Pinakothek der Moderne, keep the art juices flowing by taking this intriguing-looking street art bike tour with GetYourGuide. There’s a lively street art scene in Munich, a city that pioneered the graffiti movement in Germany in the 1980s.

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Where to Stay in Munich

Boutique Hotel Splendid: Located in the center of Munich within easy walking distance of many attractions. Comfortable rooms.

Andaz Munich Schwabinger Tor by Hyatt: This is a bit of a splurge, but its location next to the English Garden is great if you’re looking for a stroll in nature after touring Munich’s museums. The buffet breakfast here was the most opulent I’ve ever seen.


Otterlo, Netherlands: Kröller-Müller Museum

I was 18 years old and traveling on my own for the first time in Europe when first I visited the Kröller-Müller Museum. Located in the Dutch National Park (Nationaal Park De Hoge Veluwe) outside Otterlo and not far from Arnhem, this museum is a must-see

To say that the Kröller-Müller blew me away on my first visit would be an understatement. Fresh off the plane from Canada, I’d seen nothing like it in my suburban, middle-class life.

The Kröller-Müller Museum is light, airy, and filled with famous works by van Gogh and a load of other great painters.

Even better, the museum is smack in the middle of the Dutch National Park. This amazing park teems with deer, rolling sand hills, intriguing forests, and miles of bike paths.

Visiting the Kröller-Müller Museum

When I revisited the museum with Gregg recently, I was thrilled to discover that the Kröller-Müller and the park were as awesome as I remembered.

Everything about the place is perfect!

The museum includes dozens of paintings by van Gogh, room after room of other greats from the 19th and early 20th centuries, a massive sculpture garden, and even a bustling outdoor café with excellent food.

Close-up of Van Gogh's Sunflowers painting, showing vibrant yellow sunflowers in various stages of decay, set against a blue background.
Purchase tickets to the Kröller-Müller Museum.

The word that comes to mind when touring the sculpture garden is serendipity. The sculptures are modern and diverse and often positioned in unexpected places.

Every turn of a pathway through forests and across green clipped lawns reveals yet another vista and another sculpture—stone or wood or marble, some moving, some static, some aesthetically stunning, some quirky, a few ugly, and yet all perfect. 

A large red abstract sculpture and a bronze statue of a man stand in front of the Kröller-Müller Museum, set against green trees and a bright sky.
Tickets to the Kröller-Müller Museum include the spectacular sculpture garden.
A smooth, white abstract sculpture reflects in a pond, surrounded by lush greenery at the Kröller-Müller Museum's sculpture garden in the Netherlands.
Floating sculpture on the grounds of the Kröller-Müller Museum in the Netherlands

Getting to the Kröller-Müller Museum

If you’re a fan of van Gogh and modern sculpture but haven’t visited the Kröller-Müller, then go.

Take a day tour from Amsterdam, or better, drive and stay a few days in the area. Gregg and I combined our visit to the Kröller-Müller with a bike ride around a portion of the 55-square-kilometer national park.

Explore a remarkably varied landscape that includes stunningly beautiful forests, heathlands, and sand dunes. You’ll spot impressively antlered deer, wild boar, foxes, sheep, and more.

A majestic red deer stag walks across a field of purple heath, with a dense forest in the background at a Dutch national park.
Red deer stag in the Dutch National Park at Hoge Veluwe

Practical Information for the Kröller-Müller Museum

Kröller-Müller Museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 5 pm. Museum admission currently costs €13.50 for adults, €6.75 for youths (13 – 18). Children under 12 are admitted free. The website has the latest rates. Plaese note that the museum is located in the middle of De Hoge Veluwe National Park. Therefore, you also have to buy a ticket for the park that costs €13.40 for age 13 and older, and €6.70 for ages 6 -12.

Tour to the Kröller-Müller from Amsterdam

This full-day tour is a great option if you don’t have your own transport. The tour goes from Amsterdam and includes time to explore the awesome Hoge Veluwe National Park.

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Where to Stay near the Kröller-Müller Museum

The Kröller-Müller Museum is in a lovely rural area of the Netherlands. You can choose to stay near the museum or in nearby Arnhem. Here’s the place I stayed in:

Fletcher Hotel-Restaurant De Buunderkamp: This place is nestled in the woods not far from the Kröller-Müller Museum. Rooms are spacious and there’s an indoor pool. You can even rent bikes to explore the area, which we did and it was gorgeous!


Paris, France: Centre Pompidou

My most recent experience with the Pompidou Center (one of my absolute favorite modern art museums in Europe) was fraught with pure terror.

Gregg and I were trying to find an art gallery on an obscure side street that even Google Maps couldn’t find. The gallery was hosting an exhibition of Gregg’s work, so finding the gallery was a matter of some urgency.

I directed Gregg to turn down what I trusted was the right street. He drove a short block over cobblestones to emerge into a wide, pedestrian-only space that butted up against the back end of the massive Pompidou Center. 

Mon Dieu!

I looked up at the crazy exoskeleton of pipes and glass that had horrified Parisians when it was first built and yelled a few choice curses into my phone. The Google Maps lady was not impressed. She continued to insist that we drive across the square.

The exterior of the Centre Pompidou in Paris, with its exposed framework, red escalator tube, and banners promoting current exhibitions.
Exterior of the Pompidou Center in Paris

Luckily, the space was relatively empty of people (a rare event) so Gregg was able to execute a hasty U-turn and head smartly down the correct street. The only problem was that the street was one-way, and we were barreling down it the wrong way.

Fortunately, we found the gallery without having a head-on collision. A few hours later, after unloading the paintings and hanging the show, we were swanning about the vernissage (the opening), champagne glasses in hand.

Phew!

Visiting the Centre Pompidou

Every time we visit Paris, we make a beeline for the Pompidou. Its special exhibitions are almost always excellent.

UPDATE: The Centre Pompidou is currently closed for renovations set to last for several years. You can still take advantage of the Constellation Program that features exhibitions in venues around Paris. Check the Pompidou website for details.

The best thing about the Pompidou (before is temporary closure) is the collection on the legendary fourth floor. I don’t know where the collection will be housed when the Pompidou reopens, but I’m pretty sure it will still be a veritable “who’s who” of early 20th-century modern art.

All the most famous names are represented. Look forward to the day when you can again stroll through the rooms picking out your favorites and reveling in the glorious mishmash of colors and forms that characterize 20th-century modern art.

After sighing your way around the art, take the escalator to the rooftop to relish one of the best views of the Paris skyline.

Practical Information for the Pompidou Center

Centre Pompidou is currently closed for renovation. The website has the details.

Where to Stay in Paris

I favor staying on the Left Bank when I’m in Paris, preferably Saint Germain, although that area is getting pretty expensive. In Paris, an apartment or aparthotel may be your best bet. Hotel rooms tend to be very small.

Here are three of my recommendations for places to stay in Paris on the Left Bank.

Hotel de L’Université: I love the location of this boutique hotel–close to Boulevard Saint Germain and the Seine but a bit removed from the busiest areas of Saint Germain. Rooms are quite spacious (for Paris) and the old beams in the ceiling are a nice touch.

Citadines Saint-Germain-des-Prés: This aparthotel is part of the Citadines chain and is good value considering the excellent location right on the Seine in the 6th arrondisement. I’ve stayed here twice over the past two years.

Le Clos Medicis: Located very close to the Jardin du Luxembourg, this charming boutique hotel has attractive rooms and a very comfy lobby.


Rome’s National Gallery of Modern Art (Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna) is conveniently located on the edge of the Borghese Gardens, surely one of Europe’s most beguiling parks. 

A serene view of the Temple of Asclepius in the Villa Borghese gardens, Rome, reflected in a calm lake, framed by trees with a clear blue sky overhead.
View of the Temple of Asclepius at Villa Borghese Gardens in Rome

The gallery features an excellent collection of 20th-century Italian painters, including Giorgio de Chirico (a particular favorite), Amedeo Modigliani, Antonio Canova, Giacomo Balla, and Giorgio Morandi.

You’ll also find works by Rodin, Degas, van Gogh, Monet, Duchamp, Man Ray, and Pollock.

Unlike the Vatican and the other Renaissance and ancient Roman attractions of Rome, the National Gallery of Modern Art is sparsely attended and therefore extremely pleasant.

After your visit, stroll along the shaded pathways of the Borghese Gardens. 

National Gallery of Modern Art is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 9 am to 7 pm. The admission currently costs €10.

The very popular Borghese Gallery is close by. Here’s an option that inclues a guided tour with your tickets. The Borghese is well worth a visit, and houses one of my favorite Baroque sculptures by Bernini.

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Where to Stay in Rome

I favor staying in apartments when in Rome because I’m usually staying at least a week. Here are three of the apartments I’ve stayed in that provided excellent value in great locations:

Monti Apartments: This centrally located place is not far from the Colosseum and close to a charming old neighborhood with lots of small restaurants and quiet side streets. The apartment is spacious, well-equipped, and excellent value. Staff are on hand during the day and the apartment has an elevator.

Viam 16b Suites: I loved this place! It’s located on a tiny side street close to the Piazza del Popolo and the Spanish Steps in an upscale area of Rome. Unlike many apartments in Rome, the Viam 16b Suites is staffed during the day. Our suite included an outdoor terrace.

Sant’Angelo Apartments: The location deep in the ancient Jewish Ghetto is a big selling point and the apartment itself is comfortable, albeit a bit dark. But walk out your front door and you’r’re steps from Roman ruins.


Saint-Paul-de-Vence, France: Fondation Maeght

The Fondation Maeght makes just about every list of must-see art museums in Europe. While not the largest modern art museum in Europe, the Maeght is one of the most respected and also the most beautifully situated.

The Maeght is near the charming village of Saint Paul-de-Vence, not far from Cannes and Nice in the south of France

A smiling woman in a blue dress and sunglasses stands near a black sculpture resembling an eye with a trident, by Joan Miró, surrounded by lush greenery and trees at the Fondation Maeght.
On the grounds of the fabulous Fondation Maeght in the south of France

I can’t say that every exhibition we’ve seen at the Fondation Maeght has been great. However, you still ought to visit if you’re in the area. When the exhibitions are good, they are extremely good.

The Fondation Maeght is a private foundation that was conceived and funded by Aimé and Marguerite Maeght to exhibit modern art. The Maeghts had several artist friends, including Georges Braque, Alexander Calder, Marc Chagall, Alberto Giacometti, Fernand Léger, and Joan Miró, who from the get-go donated or sold their work to the Foundation.

As Miró emphasized, the Fondation Maeght “…must before all be a place for art that remains alive.”

Visiting the Fondation Maeght

We first visited the Fondation Maeght in the 1990s during our first family trip to Europe with our young daughter. It was love at first sight!

Highlights include the giant sculptures by so many of the great 20th-century modern artists, including Miró, Giacometti, Arp, and Calder; spectacular views across the hills of the Riviera to the turquoise Mediterranean; and an airy modernist gallery. 

You can visit the Fondation Maeght on a tour, but you’d be best off spending at least a few nights exploring the area and visiting the Maeght for a few hours at the beginning or end of the day when the light is best for photography.  

Practical Information for the Fondation Maeght

Fondation Maeght is open daily from 10 am to 6 pm (July and Augusut to 7pm). The admission currently costs €18 for adults, €14 for youths (16 – 18), students, press and unemployed visitors. Children under 16 and disabled visitors are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.

Tour of Medieval Villages

If you don’t have a car, this tour of medieval villages that goes from Nice stops in Saint-Paul-de Vence for 1.5 hours, which is enough time for a flying visit to the Fondation Maeght.

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Where to Stay in Saint Paul-de-Vence

The village of Saint Paul-de-Vence has been well and truly discovered and accommodations there are not budget-friendly. Here are two options:

Le Hameau: Located in an 18th-century farmhouse with a view of the valley and the village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence, this place is close to the Fondation and includes a gorgeous pool

Hotel Marc-Hely: Located a few kilometers away in La Colle-sur-Loup, this comfortable hotel room included a balcony and very friendly properietors.


Venice, Italy: Peggy Guggenheim Collection

If I were to pick a favorite modern art museum from this Must-See list, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection in Venice would rank in the top three.

Located right smack on the Grand Canal in the Dorsoduro district of magical Venice between Santa Maria della Salute and the Gallerie dell’Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection just makes me smile. I can’t visit it often enough!

A woman posing beside a bronze sculpture of a stylized figure riding an animal, located in front of the Peggy Guggenheim Museum, which features ornate iron window grilles and stone steps.
Carol next to a statue of a horse in front of the Peggy
Guggenheim Museum in Venice.

The museum houses Peggy Guggenheim’s personal collection of 20th-century art, including masterpieces of cubism, surrealism, and abstract expressionism.

Gregg is a huge fan of Max Ernst, to whom Peggy was married for a time. Several of Ernst’s marvelous paintings are featured in the collection. Other artists in the permanent collection include Picasso, Kandinsky, Miró, Braque, Giacometti, Klee, Magritte, Dali, Pollock, de Chirico, Brancusi, Braque, Duchamp, and Mondrian.

It really is an embarrassment of 20th-century riches.

If you’re in Venice, take a break from the Renaissance and cross the canal to visit the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. Wander the cool halls of her renovated palazzo to view the paintings and sculptures, then descend the steps to the edge of the canal and watch the boats go by. 

A panoramic view of Venice's Grand Canal with historic buildings lining the waterway, boats navigating the canal, and the iconic dome of Santa Maria della Salute under a partly cloudy sky.
Venice panorama city skyline at Venice Grand Canal, Venice Italy

Practical Information for the Peggy Guggenheim Collection

Peggy Guggenheim Collection is open daily except Tuesdays from 10 am to 6 pm. The admission currently costs €16 for adults, €14 for seniors (70+), €9 for students under 26. Members and children under 10 are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.

Art Tour in the Dorsoduro

This private art and culture tour includes both the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and the wonderful collection of Venetian art at the Accademia.

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Where to Stay in Venice

Venice is expensive, but splurge and stay in a central area of this remarkable city rather than in nearby Mestre. Venice at night is the best. Streets that are thronged during the day become dark and empty and you’re bound to get lost on your back back to your accommodations. But you’re on an island and eventually you’ll find your way through alleyways that look like they haven’t changed in centuries, which is pretty much the case.

San Teodoro Palace: This one-bedroom apartment is huge by Venice standards and located steps from the Rialto Bridge in a very lively and touristy area.

Ca’ Mirò: Settle into this two-floor apartment in a quiet area of Venice not far from the train station and become a temporary Venetian. It’s gorgeous.

Another option if you’ve visited Venice before and are looking for some peace and quiet, is to stay on the island of Murano. I recently did just that. Here’s my post with recommendations for what to do and where to stay: Choose Murano For a Unique Venetian Experience


Louisiana Museum of Modern Art Near Copenhagen, Denmark

The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (#11 on the map at the top of this post) is about a 30-minute train ride north of Copenhagen. It’s world-renowned as one of Europe’s best modern art museums, and therefore a must-visit for the Artsy Traveler!

Check what exhibitions are on, but even if they don’t appeal, visit the museum anyway. It makes for a lovely morning out from Copenhagen. You reach it by train (covered by the Copenhagen Card) followed by a pleasant 20-minute stroll along a suburban road to the museum.

After visiting the exhibitions, head outside where the real stars of the museum are located.

A whimsical bronze sculpture of a rounded humanoid figure with oversized eyes, standing outdoors surrounded by trees and greenery.
Sculpture at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art near Copenhagen, Denmark

Practical Information for the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art

Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is open from 11 am to 10 pm on Tuesdays to Fridays and 11 am to 6 pm on Saturdays and Sundays. The admission currently costs DKK 145 for adults, DKK 125 for students. Louisiana members and youths under 18 are admitted free. The website has the latest rates.

Day Tour from Copenhagen

Here’s a private day tour to Louisiana Museum of Modern Art from Copenhagen with Viator, or on another day, consider this day trip from Copenhagen with GetYourGuide to three interesting destinatoins outside Copenhagen: Kronborg, Frederiksborg Castle and Roskilde:

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Where to Stay in Copenhagen

Here are two recommended places to stay in Copenhagen, both in the atmospheric Nyhavn area.

Sanders Haven: This huge apartment is one of the best places I’ve stayed anywhere in Europe (which is saying something). If it’s available, book it!

Phoenix Copenhagen: A stylishly upscale hotel in the Nyhavn area with friendly staff.


Tate St. Ives in Cornwall, England

The Tate St. Ives (#12) is a delightfully compact and easy-to-tour museum overlooking the sea in lovely little St. Ives. I visited on a recent trip to Cornwall, and was lucky to sit in on two curator talks about local artist Robert Lanyon. Here’s one of his pieces.

An abstract painting with swirling strokes of blue, red, white, and black hues, featuring bold, chaotic lines and textures in a wooden frame.
Lost Mine by Peter Lanyon

Practical Information for Tate St. Ives

Tate St. Ives is open daily from 10 am to 4:20 pm. The admission currently costs £13.50 and visitors aged under 18 is admitted free. The website has the latest rates.

Entry to the Barbara Hepworth Museum

A few minutes’ walk from the tate St. Ives is the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden. This place is well worth a visit if you’re a fan of world renowned sculptor Barbara Hepworth. Here’s a link to tickets to the site.

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Where to Stay in St. Ives

St. Ives is a popular holiday area in Cornwall. Here are two options with sea views:

Harbour Hotel & Spa St. Ives: An upscale choice with views across St. Ives Bay with elegant rooms.

Tregenna Castle Resort: Why not stay in a castle! This place is about a kilometer from St. Ives and overlooks the Cornish coast. It even has a heated indoor swimming pool and an outdoor seasonal heated swimming pool.

Sightseeing Tips

I highly recommend purchasing tickets ahead of time when you’re traveling in Europe. Major art museums are increasingly crowded, with long lines that sap your sightseeing energy. Who can enjoy art after standing for an hour under the hot sun waiting to buy tickets?

By purchasing your tickets in advance, you can enjoy a leisurely breakfast before strolling straight into the museum past the long lines of tourists who did not book ahead.

You’ll be sighing in front of some of the world’s great masterpieces in no time!

I keep all my tickets easily available on my phone which is why I use Tiqets.com, GetYourGuide, and Viator.

Conclusion

What are your favorite modern art museums in Europe? Share your suggestions and recommendations for fellow artsy travelers? Please share them in the Comments below.

Looking for more great art? Here are posts on a few more of my favorite art museums in Europe: