Museums & Galleries

Discover the world’s most inspiring museums and galleries through guides, reviews, and insider tips for arts-focused travelers. From major national collections to small local gems and single-artist museums, these posts highlight places where art, history, and culture come alive. Find the best exhibitions to see, practical advice for visiting, and meaningful ways to experience art wherever you travel.

The Design Museum in London

Things to See at the Design Museum in London

England, Museums & Galleries Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on Things to See at the Design Museum in London

Last updated on November 28th, 2025 at 05:44 pm

London’s new-to-me Design Museum is indeed quite new. Founded in 1989, it moved in 2016 to its spacious digs in South Kensington adjacent to Holland Park from a former 1940s banana warehouse on the South Bank.

Now the Design Museum hosts millions of visitors each year.

And no wonder! The Design Museum’s vision is “A world in which design enables this planet and its inhabitants to thrive.” Innovative exhibitions, partnerships, research and learning programs celebrate design in all its forms.

Pinterest graphic with the text "Enjoying Your Visit to the Design Museum in London" over a picture of the interior of the Design Museum in London, England.

I highly recommend a visit to the Design Museum in London. Unlike many museums that are full of objects we can admire but never use, the Design Museum features objects we all use every day—from teaspoons to computers to cars. It’s fascinating to see the integral role design has played in shaping our modern world. Read on to learn what there is to see and do at the Design Museum in London!

Things to See in the Design Museum in London

Located on Kensington High Street near Holland Park, the Design Museum’s newly renovated building is spacious, airy, and chock full of interesting things to look at.

Admission to the permanent collection at the Design Museum (1) is free, just like so many of London’s major museums including the Victoria and Albert Museum (2), the National Gallery (3), and the British Museum (4).

Trip map created with Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

In addition to the marvelous permanent collection called Designer Maker User, the Design Museum houses several special exhibitions which do require tickets.

Check the Design Museum’s website to see if any of the special exhibitions interest you, buy your ticket online in advance, and then make sure you save some energy to tour the permanent collection. Tickets for popular exhibitions, such as Barbie: The Exhibition that I saw in September 2024 and the current Tim Burton Exhibition that runs to April 21, 2025, sell out quickly.

Barbie: The Exhibition at the Design Museum in London

If you’re visiting London this fall or winter, then run, don’t walk to see Barbie: The Exhibition before it closes on February 23, 2025. The story of the iconic doll’s evolution from a design and marketing perspective is fascinating.

The bright, colorful (and VERY pink) Barbie exhibition at the Design Museum in London showcases Barbie’s development from her creation in 1959 to her hundreds of iterations today and includes a nod to the 2024 Barbie movie.

Portion of the Barbie exhibition at the Design Museum in London
Part of the very colorful Barbie Exhibition at the Design Museum in London

My First Barbie

I got my first Barbie when I was eight years old, and I remember loving  her. I also remember my older brother trying to put my Barbie through the wringer washer. Fortunately, she survived surprisingly intact. That plastic was made to last!

My mom sewed clothes for my Barbie, a monumental achievement considering the teeny tiny size of Barbie clothes. At the time, I took her incredible skill for granted. As I gazed down at the Barbie clothes on display in the Barbie exhibition, I was astonished anew by my mother’s abilities and achievements.

For obvious reasons, I particularly liked the displays of the early Barbies. I remember coveting the high-priced Barbie Dreamhouse and Barbie cars, but they were out of reach for my family. I did know a few very wealthy girls at school who had them and were the envy of us all. Here is a selection of cars from Barbie’s early years.

Barbie Cars at the Design Museum in London

Barbie’s Success Story

Barbie sure is a design success story. The doll has evolved over the years, and while still essentially a stick-thin glamor girl, she has had some iterations that bring her closer to real life. There are different body shapes, different ethnicities and different head shapes.

I’m particularly impressed by all the ways in which Barbie is shown to participate in the world—from Firefighter Barbie to Astronaut Barbie to President Barbie.

Barbie Dolls at the Design Museum in London

Barbie has become a much healthier role model for young girls than she was back in the 1960s. My first dolls were baby dolls in keeping with the emphasis in the 1950s on preparing girls for motherhood. Having a doll that looked glamorous, had long hair that I could brush, and that wore pretty clothes was a revelation. But the concept of a Firefighter Barbie or an Astronaut Barbie or even a Management Consultant Barbie was foreign territory indeed.

So yeah, we’ve come a long way since 1959 when Barbie first hit the market!

I’m Just Ken!

Barbie: The Exhibition does not neglect good ‘ole Ken. I snapped this photo of a collection of Kens standing tall and proud in a case of their own.

Collection of Ken dolls at the Design Museum in London

Exploring the Permanent Collection at the Design Museum in London

After touring Barbie: The Exhibition, I ascended to the third floor to tour the permanent collection of the Design Museum and admire the museum’s interior space.

Interior of the Design Museum in London
Interior of the Design Museum in London

That to See in the Designer Maker User Collection

The permanent collection at the Design Museum is called Designer Maker User and it’s a stunner! The curators have done an excellent job of explaining various design concepts through the display of everyday objects, from spoons to chairs to computers.

The exhibit features over 1000 objects divided into three segments: Designer, Maker, and User .

Designer at the Design Museum

The objects in the Designer section are displayed in ways that invite the visitor to contemplate the thought process of the designer who must envision how the designed object will be used. I like the quote on one of the information plaques: “The role of the designer stretches from the spoon to the city.”

In this section are displayed objects such as a traffic light, the Anglepoise lamp, and a Tube carriage.

Maker at the Design Museum

The Maker section presents objects in relation to the evolution of manufacturing. Included are café chairs, a Model T Ford, robotic arms, and 3D printers. Objects such as tennis balls and the London 2012 Olympic Torch are presented at different stages of production.

As I wandered through the exhibits, I was constantly amazed by the ingenuity of the human mind. Take tennis, for instance.  First, someone had to want a ball they could bounce and hit with a racket. Then, someone else had to figure out how to make a prototype of the ball. Finally, a whole team of brainiacs had to figure out how to manufacture thousands of balls so that anyone who wanted to could play tennis. Mind-boggling!

User at the Design Museum

The User section explores the interaction between people and brands that define the modern world. As a computer user for many decades, I was especially taken by the display of electronics, from the clunky Apple computers of the 1980s to the sleek Macs of today. The red Sony laptop in the picture below is identical to one I had a good twenty years ago. I really liked that computer!

Computers at the Design Museum in London

Crowdsourced Wall at the Design Museum

Outside the Designer User Maker exhibit is the Crowdsourced Wall. Here are displayed more than 200 objects that people from 25 countries nominated as their most important objects. The diverse selection of objects is meant to “demonstrate the intimate relationships we have with the everyday objects that shape our lives.”

Items on display include a red bucket, an Underground sign, a bicycle, a green plastic stool, a sewing machine, a drill, a mop, a pair of jeans, and a lot more. The fascinating selection is so much fun to look at since these are objects that we all know and use.

The Crowdsourced Wall of everyday objects at the Design Museum in London

Checking Out the Rods at the Design Museum

I am arrested by a display of…rods! I didn’t know rods were a thing in the UK, but they certainly were a cherished part of my early school years. For those who don’t know, rods are various colored plastic rectangles used to teach children arithmetic.

A white rod represents one and is one-tenth the size of an orange rod that represents ten. In between are red for two, green for three, and so on. When I was in Grades 1 and 2, the highlight of a day was when you finished your work early and the teacher let you go to the back of the room to “play rods.” I spent many a happy hour solving arithmetic problems with the tactile aid of those plastic rectangles that felt so smooth and were so pleasingly colored. Rods are still in use to this day, although my daughter doesn’t remember having them when she was at school in the 1990s.

What a shame for her! I credit rods with giving me a lifelong penchant for arithmetic. Mathematics? Not so much, but I’m a dab hand at addition, subtraction, multiplication and division without a calculator! Thank you, rods.

A box of rods used to solve arithmetic problems at the Design Museum in London
A display of rods used to teach children arithmetic

The box of rods on display at the Design Museum isn’t the only object that catapults me down memory lane. The entire museum is one big time-travel experience.

If you use household objects (and who doesn’t?), then check out the Design Museum. You’re bound to find at least a few displays that trigger happy memories.

The Design Museum Shop

After you’ve toured the exhibits, check out the stylish gift shop. You’ll find all sorts of cool design items there.

Practical Information about the Design Museum in London

The Design Museum is located at 224–238 Kensington High Street and is open Monday to Thursday from 10:00 to 17:00, and Friday to Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00. Some ticketed exhibitions may remain open later on weekends. The Design Museum is closed on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and Boxing Day. Admission to the permanent collection is free. Check the website for more information.

Touring London

London is full of intriguing museums and experiences, some very much off-the-beaten path. GetYourGuide has plenty of options to choose from. Here are a few:

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Staying in London

London is not an inexpensive city, but nevertheless, I’ve discovered some excellent places to stay that, while not bargain basement, are good value and centrally located.

On a recent trip to London, I stayed at the Park Plaza Victoria London Hotel. Located right across the street from Victoria Station, the Park Plaza Victoria (5 on the map at the beginning of this post) is a remarkably good deal for a modern, four-star hotel in the heart of London. My room for two was spacious and even had a view over London.

The Wilde ApartHotel (6) in central London is also a wonderful choice. I loved its central location within walking distance of Trafalgar Square and most of the West End theaters. Check out my post about the Wilde ApartHotel.

Conclusion

Have you visited the Design Museum? What were your favorite exhibits? Did you see a special exhibition? Share your experiences and recommendations in the Comments below.

Here are links to posts about three of my favorite London galleries and museums:

Carol Cram at the V & A Museum in London

How to Get the Most Out of Your Visit to the Victoria & Albert Museum in London

England, Museums & Galleries Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on How to Get the Most Out of Your Visit to the Victoria & Albert Museum in London

Last updated on November 28th, 2025 at 06:34 pm

The Victoria and Albert Museum is one of the world’s most amazing repositories of, well, beautiful stuff.

It’s a collector’s dream come true with astonishing examples of the decorative arts and the applied arts. You’ll find everything from costumes to metal gates to furniture to bracelets and everything in between.

There is so much to see at London’s Victoria and Albert museum that you need to pace yourself and have a plan.

You can’t really define the V&A because it’s just so eclectic.

A split image showing the iconic entrance and courtyard of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London with the text "The Victoria and Albert Museum in London" and "artsytraveler.com."

Think of an object and the V&A probably has an example of a version made with exquisite skill by someone somewhere in the world.

It’s a sensual feast for the eyes and a testament to the ingenuity of human beings and their commitment to fashioning objects that are not only functional but gorgeous.

There are so many things to see that you could spend days exploring—it’s HUGE! In this post, I share my recommendations for seeing the best of the V&A.

V&A at a Glance

Overview of the Victoria and Albert Museum

The V&A museum is high on my list of favorite museums. Almost every time I go to London, I pop into the V&A. No matter how often I visit, I still discover new things to look at.

The only problem with this incredible museum is that it’s impossible to see and appreciate all of it in one visit, or two, or ten. I’ve visited at least five times over the years, and I feel like I haven’t even scratched the surface.

The museum lives up to its reputation as the world’s largest museum of art and design.

The V&A was established in 1852 with collections from the Great Exhibition of 1851, and was originally called the Museum of Manufactures and then the South Kensington Museum.

Queen Victoria laid the foundation stone of the current location in 1899 and changed the name to the Victoria and Albert Museum to include her late husband Prince Albert.

Location of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London

The V&A is located near the South Kensington underground station and alongside several of London’s largest South Kensington museums.

If you love museums, make a day of it. Visit the V&A (1), and then hop on over to the Natural History Museum and the Science Museum (2 & 3 on the map). Both are excellent places to visit with children.

Better still, spread the visits over two days. Museum-hopping can be exhausting. Go at your own pace and take time to explore nearby Hyde Park (4) and Kensington Gardens (5) for a nature break.

Map courtesy of Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

Visiting the Victoria and Albert Museum in London

Yes, the V&A is huge and yes, there’s a ton to see, but you have to start somewhere. Your best bet when first visiting is to select five or six galleries to explore, occasionally veering into exhibition rooms en route when something catches your eye.

List of Galleries

  • Architecture
  • Britain (1500 – 1760)
  • Britain (1760 – 1900)
  • Buddhism
  • Cast Courts
  • Ceramics
  • China
  • Contemporary Glass
  • Design (1900 – Now)
  • Europe (1600 – 1815)
  • Fashion
  • Furniture
  • Glass
  • Gold, Silver & Mosaics
  • Himalayas & Southeast Asia
  • Ironwork
  • Islamic Middle East
  • Japan
  • Jewelry
  • Korea
  • Leighton
  • Medieval & Renaissance (300 – 1600)
  • Metalware
  • Paintings
  • Photography Centre
  • Portrait Miniatures
  • Prints & Drawings
  • The Raphael Cartoons
  • Sacred Silver & Stained Glass
  • Sculpture
  • Sculpture (1300 – 1600)
  • Silver
  • South Asia
  • South Asian Sculpture
  • Tapestries
  • Theatre & Performance

Daunting? You betcha! Note that some galleries may be closed. Start your visit by checking at the information desk to find out what’s open. For example, the Theatre & Performance gallery was not open when I visited in September, 2024.

So where to start?

A bright view of the grand entrance to the Victoria and Albert Museum, showcasing the building's intricate white stone architecture against a clear blue sky.
Exterior of the Victoria and Albert Museum on Cromwell Road in Kensington

Arriving at the Victoria and Albert Museum

First, walk up the steps and enter the museum’s massive atrium. Straight ahead is a large information area—your first stop.

Put your wallet away (unless you’re planning to see the special exhibition) because admission to the permanent collection is FREE. I know. Amazing!

You can make a donation (I always do), but you don’t have to. The attendants at the information booth will give you a map and may also suggest you purchase the guidebook.

For £5, it’s a bargain because it gives you an overview of the highlights of each gallery.

Special Exhibitions

You can choose to buy a ticket to the special exhibition. A few weeks before you visit the V&A, check what’s on and make reservations. Popular exhibitions often sell out quickly.

Getting Started

Once you’ve purchased your guidebook, or even just armed with the free map, walk straight through the gift shop (you can come back later!) and out into the courtyard.

Buy something to drink from the kiosk and settle down at one of the tables (weather permitting) to check the map and/or guidebook.

The exterior courtyard of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, featuring the building's red brick façade, a circular fountain, and manicured greenery, including a topiary tree in a planter.
Courtyard at the V&A

While sipping your beverage of choice, figure out which areas you want to focus on and where they are in the museum. You want to avoid backtracking.

The beauty of the V&A is that even if you’ve decided to tour only six galleries, you’ll see plenty more as you walk through the museum from chosen gallery to chosen gallery. Don’t be surprised if you’re tempted to veer off to check out a gallery you hadn’t intended to visit.

Give in to these impulses. The V&A truly is a treasure trove!

Now you’re ready to start your tour. Go slowly and pace yourself. Beauty overload is a thing!

Here are just some of the hundreds (thousands?) of things to see at the V&A.

Things to See at the Victoria and Albert Museum

I’m focusing here on six galleries: Fashion, Asian (which includes several areas), Furniture, Cast Court, Glass, and Jewelry.

Fashion Gallery 

I always drop into the fashion collection, located in the central area of the main floor. Here, you’ll find a unique collection of European clothing and textiles spanning from 1750 to the present.

I particularly enjoy the 18th- and 19th-century dresses. Can you imagine wearing so many hoops and corsets? Here’s an elaborate dress from the 1760s.

A museum display of an ornate 18th-century floral gown with a full skirt and corseted bodice. The dress is set against a historical backdrop alongside a wooden string instrument.

Asian Art and Objects at the Victoria and Albert Museum

This is a broad category that includes art and objects from several regions: Japan, Korea, China, South Asia and Himalayas, and Southeast Asia. Take a stroll through the galleries to enjoy an amazing collection of articles.

Highlights for me are the Samurai armor collection in the Japan section, a golden Buddha, jade objects from China, delicate porcelain, and so many more treasures.

An interesting—if rather gruesome—piece is Tipu’s Tiger in the South Asia and Himalayas section. This wooden sculpture was made for Tipu Sultan, ruler of Mysore in South India.

When the handle on the side of the tiger is turned, the ghastly noises produced imitate the wails of agony of the British soldier lying underneath the tiger. Apparently, this exhibit was one of the most popular in the East India Company’s museum.

A unique wooden sculpture depicting a tiger attacking a British soldier, with vibrant colors and intricate carving. The piece is housed in a glass display case with accompanying text panels.

And although not part of the Asian galleries, take a quick detour to check out the Ardabil carpet, which is the world’s oldest dated carpet. Although its exact origins are unknown, the carpet was made sometime during the 16th century.

It’s a stunner.

Examples of furniture are scattered throughout many of the galleries in the V&A. In addition, the Dr. Susan Weber Gallery of Furniture showcases how furniture was been made and decorated for over 600 years. Included are items from the Renaissance to the present.

Bed of Ware

One of the most interesting pieces of furniture is in the Britain 1500 – 1760 gallery. Definitely make a detour to check out the Great Bed of Ware, so famous in its day that it was mentioned by Shakespeare.

The famous bed is three meters wide and apparently able to comfortably accommodate four couples (at least!). It was constructed around 1590 as a tourist attraction for an inn in Ware, Hertfordshire, which was a day’s journey from London and a convenient overnight stop for travelers bound for Cambridge and points north.

The initials that visitors carved into the bed posts and the headboard are still visible today.

A historic four-poster bed with ornate dark wood carvings and bright red and yellow curtains. The bed is displayed in a dimly lit museum gallery.

Cast Courts 

The massive sculptures in the Cast Courts are the showstopping, must-see areas of the V&A. You’ll be able to view the two huge, connected courts from many angles as you make your way up through the four levels of the museum.

Look down from one of the walkways on the third or fourth level and find yourself faced with a bewildering hodge podge of iconic statues, altarpieces, and even columns.

Why go to Florence when you can visit the cast courts at the V&A instead? It’s like a souvenir store for giants.

These plaster casts of great art and architecture from around the world were collected and displayed for visitors to study.

One of the many highlights is Michelangelo’s David. Apparently, Queen Victoria was shocked by the anatomical correctness of the David cast and requested that a suitably proportioned fig leaf be made and hung on the statue when dignitaries visited.

My source didn’t specify if regular visitors were allowed to view the full Monty, so to speak.

A wide view of a museum's cast court filled with replicas of famous sculptures, including Michelangelo's David, surrounded by detailed architectural elements and other statues.

Another highlight is the reproduction of Trajan’s column. The original is too tall to include in the building and so the reproduction is divided into two massive columns.

I’ve seen the original in Rome, and because of the column’s height, it’s difficult to see the detail. At the V&A, you can get pretty close to the columns to view the intricate carvings.

Interior view of a museum gallery showcasing large replicas of ancient Roman columns, including Trajan's Column, surrounded by other monumental sculptures under a skylit ceiling.

Glass Gallery

Up on Level 3 in a corner of the museum that was virtually empty when I last visited is the astounding Glass Gallery. Here, you’ll trace the development of design and technology in glassmaking over 3,500 years.

The museum’s glass collection is reputed to be one of the world’s most comprehensive.

I’m always intrigued by glass. How did people figure out that sand heated up could turn transparent? The variety and beauty of the hundreds and hundreds of objects on display is truly remarkable. I could have stayed there for hours.

A display of slender, artistic glass vessels in shades of blue, turquoise, and brown with elongated, curving necks. These pieces are delicately shaped, highlighting the elegance of glassblowing techniques.

I’m feeling overwhelmed after looking at some many amazing objects, but I can’t resist a walk through the narrow, dimly lit and quite crowded collection reputed to be among the finest in the world.

More than 3,000 pieces tell the story of western jewelry from ancient times to the present day.

Case after case contain pieces ranging from tiaras, brooches, and earrings to stunning necklaces, bracelets, and rings.

All around you, people can be heard oohing and aahing, and no wonder! The ingenuity and skill that was required to make such superb objects is unfathomable.

Close-up of two golden snake-shaped bracelets, intricately detailed with scales, displayed on a dark surface. The craftsmanship emphasizes the serpent motif with coiled designs and lifelike texture.

Completing Your Visit

Your visit will probably take you three to four hours. But don’t spend all that time touring the exhibits! Here are some ideas for pacing yourself.

Taking a Break at the Café 

A good strategy is to take a break to enjoy something to eat at the V&A café. Not only is the food tasty, but you’ll also benefit from getting off your feet to further study the guidebook and map.

The café can get crowded, so time your visit either before or after the lunch rush.

One good strategy to avoid crowds is to arrive at the museum when it opens at 10 am, tour a few galleries, and then enjoy an early lunch in the café before tackling some more.

Checking Out the Gift Shop 

I do love a good gift shop, and the one at the V&A is first-rate. You’ll find relatively affordable textiles, jewelry, books, fashion items, gift items, cool stuff for kids, and much more.

I bought some lovely tea towels that will be for display only in my kitchen. They are far too nice to use!

Studying at the Victoria and Albert Museum

The V&A is a world-class research center. In addition to displaying over 60,000 objects in the Museum, the museum also maintains a number of study rooms, both on and off-site. Here, you can view over two million objects from the Reference Collections and conduct private research.

When I was researching my novel The Muse of Fire, set in early 19th century London, I booked time at one of the study centers to view original prints of cartoons popular at the time.

In the hushed atmosphere of the offsite study room, I received the box of prints from an attendant who looked straight out of a Dickens novel, and spent several happy hours making notes and taking pictures.

If you have a research project in mind, you may well find useful resources at the V&A. Check the website for more information. Note that you must book well in advance of your visit.

Book cover for "The Muse of Fire" by Carol M. Cram. It features a woman in a vintage brown dress standing against a fiery orange background, exuding a dramatic and historical ambiance. The tagline reads "by the author of The Towers of Tuscany."

Practical Information

The Victoria and Albert Museum is open seven days a week from 10:00 am to 17:45, except for Fridays when it is open until 22:00. Admission is free. Check the website for more information.

Taking a Tour

On one visit to the V&A, I opted to take a guided tour. Good call! The two-hour tour showed me all sorts of amazing objects I may have missed if touring on my own. You can take a free tour provided by the museum staff or an outside tour.

Here is a tour option from GetYourGuide:

Powered by GetYourGuide

Other Awesome Museums in London

Of course, top of the list is the British Museum, in which you’ll experience objects from cultures all across the globe over two million years. Entry is free, but book your entry ticket in advance. The closest tube stations are Tottenham Court Road, Holborn, and Russell Square.

For art, you can’t beat the Tate Britain, the Tate Modern, the National Gallery of Britain (my favorite), the National Portrait Gallery, and the Courtauld Gallery. 

The Wallace Collection is small but eclectic and worth a visit. And while you’re in South Kensington, check out the Design Museum, which has become one of my new favorite places in London. 

Staying in London

London is not an inexpensive city, but over the years, I’ve discovered some excellent places to stay that, while not bargain basement, are good value and very centrally located.

On my latest trip to London, I stayed at the Park Plaza Victoria London Hotel. Located right across the street from Victoria Station, the Park Plaza Victoria (6 on the map at the beginning of this post) is a remarkably good deal for a modern, four-star hotel in the heart of London.

My room for two was spacious and even had a view over London.

A cloudy cityscape of London, featuring modern high-rise buildings in the distance and a mix of urban architecture in the foreground, with rooftops and chimneys adding character to the scene.
View from my room at the Park Plaza Victoria Hotel in London

The Wilde ApartHotel (7) just off the Strand is also a wonderful choice. I loved its very central location within walking distance of Trafalgar Square and most of the West End theaters.

Conclusion

Have you visited the Victoria and Albert Museum in London? What were your favorite exhibits? Share your experiences and recommendations in the Comments below.

Here are links to posts about three of my favorite London galleries:

A modern brick building housing the Museum of English Rural Life, surrounded by greenery and a clear blue sky.

Enjoying the Museum of English Rural Life in Reading, England

England, Museums & Galleries Artsy Traveler 2 Comments on Enjoying the Museum of English Rural Life in Reading, England

Last updated on November 28th, 2025 at 08:02 pm

This must-see museum of thoughtfully curated exhibits showcases the history of life in rural England.

Eight galleries and an impressive open storage area present artifacts and commentary related to the traditions and challenges related to food production in the English countryside.

I spent a wonderful afternoon at this museum in Reading with associate director Isabel Hughes, who graciously answered my many questions about the museum and then took me on a guided tour.

Collage with two images: the top shows a scenic canal lined with red brick buildings, blooming flower baskets, and a bright blue sky. The bottom features the Museum of English Rural Life sign at the University of Reading, with a red-brick building and leafy surroundings in the background. Overlayed text reads 'Museum of English Rural Life in Reading, England' and 'artsytraveler.com' in white on a magenta banner.

This place is a real Artsy Traveler find! And fair warning: this is a LONG post because there is just so much to write about.

Some Background

I lived in Reading for three years a few decades ago. During that time, I attended the University of Reading where I earned my BA in English Language and Literature.

I hadn’t returned to Reading since I graduated, so on a recent trip to England from my home near Vancouver, BC, I decided to make Reading my first stop after flying to Heathrow from Vancouver.

I wasn’t sure what I planned to do during my one afternoon in Reading. I googled museums and discovered the Museum of English Rural Life (MERL) run by my alma mater, the University of Reading.

I had never heard of MERL, although Isabel told me the museum was established in 1951 and did indeed exist when I attended the university in the 1970s.

In 2004, the museum moved to its spacious new digs in the former St. Andrew’s Hall, one of the student residences that was around during my time at the university.

Since its expansion, MERL has established itself as one of the United Kingdom’s premier destinations at which to learn about English rural life.

Why I Wanted to Visit the Museum of English Rural Life

I decided to visit MERL for two reasons.

First, it’s a niche museum and as such is a perfect candidate for featuring on Artsy Traveler.

Although I often write about blockbuster museums such as the Rijksmuseum, National Gallery of London, and the Uffizi, my heart beats particularly fast when I discover an off-the-beaten-track museum that my readers may not know about, and that fits with my interests.

The second reason I wanted to visit is because one of my novels titled Hidden Voices is partially set in Devon in the 1880s.

Eliza, my main character, must move with her family from a bucolic rural life in Devon to the “dark, satanic mills” of northern England where most of the novel takes place. In the scenes set in Devon, I wanted to sprinkle in a few more details about rural life that I hoped to find at MERL.

And I wasn’t disappointed! This extensive museum dedicated to farming practices and rural life is a hidden gem—and admission is free or by donation.

Arrival at the Museum of English Rural Life

A few hours prior to visiting MERL, I land at Heathrow after a smooth eight-hour flight from Vancouver. Twenty minutes after deplaning, I’m standing, phone in hand, searching for my Uber.

Most of that time has been taken up with long, long walks through long, long corridors, many rides up and down long escalators and a two-minute wait to go through the electronic customs kiosk.

Since my flight has arrived an hour early, I take the Uber to my hotel before heading to the museum. I’m staying at the Hotel Malmaison (#1 on the map) in downtown Reading, which I highly recommend. After freshening up, I decide to walk the 22 minutes from the hotel to MERL (#2). Here’s a map of Reading:

Along the way, I expect to take a few jaunts down memory lane, but alas, it isn’t to be. Nothing looks the same as I remember from the 1970s—not even close. The Reading skyline bristles with new buildings designed by architects who likely hadn’t been born when I was studying at the university.

When I lived in Reading, there was hardly anywhere to get coffee, much less enjoy a meal. We existed on copious amounts of strong tea; coffee bars were unheard of. And as for eating out, it just wasn’t done, or at least very rarely. Now, every other establishment in Reading serves food, or so it seems as I stroll past the cafes and restaurants in the downtown area.

Along the way, I cross over the Kennet-Avon canal which looks serene and well-groomed in the late August sunshine.

Kennet and Avon Canal in Reading
Kennet-Avon canal in Reading

When I arrive at MERL, associate director Isabel Hughes meets me and, over a very welcome cup of tea, we start our chat.

The Interview

Here’s a summary of my interview with Isabel Hughes, associate director of the Museum of English Rural Life (MERL) at the University of Reading in England.

Carol

What is the purpose of the Museum of English Rural Life?

Isabel

The purpose of the museum is to present exhibits and objects that help visitors understand the human side of English rural life: the production of food, farming practices since the 19th century, and the changing countryside. We like to present the human side of rural life and really celebrate working people since the vast majority of people in the 19th century and into the 20th century either worked on the land or in mills, or were servants.

Farming practices began to change in the late 19th century because of the agricultural depression caused by wheat production in Canada.

Carol

That’s very interesting because in my novel Mill Song, my main character’s family moves from Devon because there is no more farm labor work for the men. I thought it was because of mechanization that jobs became scarce, but there was also an agricultural depression. It’s interesting that Canada was to blame! A lot of people, including many of my ancestors, emigrated from a rural life in the West Country to Canada during the 19th century.

Isabel

MERL was started by the Agriculture Department at the University of Reading in 1951. World War II had ended and there was a push to make agriculture more self-sufficient and productive with the use of insecticides and the development of large farms. But as a result, traditional farming practices were being lost.

The founders of the museum realized this and decided to collect items such as old wagons and hand tools. They went to agricultural shows and talked to farmers, and acquired examples of traditional crafts such as basketry, woodworking, and bodging (making things such as brooms and chairs out of unseasoned green wood).

In 2004, the museum moved to its present location in the former St. Andrew’s Hall of residence, helped in part by funding from Alfred Palmer, a well-known Reading businessperson.

Carol

I well remember taking my exams at Reading University in the Palmer Building! He was quite the benefactor.

What is your number one recommendation for touring the museum?

Isabel

We like people to have a wander and see it all. The huge collection of wagons is particularly impressive. We have wagons from almost every county in England.

An old wagon in the Museum of English Rural Life
One of the many wagons at MERL, this one from Dorset

People can explore the eight galleries and then go upstairs to view our open storage of the thousands of items the museum has collected over the years.

Attached to each artifact is a luggage label; these were the original labels affixed when the artifact was acquired by the museum.

A large collection of farm implements in the open storage area of the museum
A large collection of farm implements in the open storage area of the museum

Another thing that we want people to notice is the textile wall hanging created for the Countryside Pavilion at the Festival of Britain in 1951. It was one of several we acquired. The one on display depicts Cheshire and cheese production.

An enormous wall hanging featuring cheshire and cheese production at the Museum of English Rural Life
An enormous wall hanging featuring Cheshire and cheese production

Carol

What is your favorite exhibit and why?

Isabel

I think my favorite is a pitchfork that was grown in a hedgerow. A branch growing off the shrub was nurtured until it was just the right size and shape for a pitchfork.

It’s made by nature but guided by hand.

A pitchfork grown in a hedgerow at the Museum of English Rural Life in Reading, England.
Isabel’s favorite, a pitchfork grown from a hedgerow

Carol

What are some of the hidden gems that visitors should check out at MERL?

Isabel

The display of friendly society pole heads is intriguing. A friendly society was a cooperative that workers bought into. If they had a rough time, then the cooperative could help to support them. The pole heads were elaborately carved and resembled pub signs. They were carried in processions such as church parades.

A collection of silver pole heads that resemble English pub signs
Some of the silver pole heads in the MERL collection

Carol

Is this place the only rural museum in England?

Isabel

It is one of the earliest museums but not the only one. There is a rural museum network that includes small community museums. Other large museums like MERL are the National Museum of Rural Life in Scotland and the St. Fagan’s National Museum of History in Wales. There is also the Weald and Downland Living Museum near Chichester, which is where Repair Shop is filmed. We like to think of MERL as the national rural museum for England, but it is not, officially.

Carol

Isabel

We’ve had images from the wall hangings turned into merchandise such as mugs, pencil cases, notebooks, tea towels and bags. We also have tea towels depicting engineering drawings of farm machinery, which are very popular with enthusiasts who are interested in recreating rural farm machinery.

Carol

Are any new exhibits planned?

Isabel

We have quite a few artifacts related to the Roma people that are often not labeled as such. These include photographs of people working the land, and a gypsy wagon. We are starting to re-label these artifacts to feature the history of the Roma people in the English countryside.

A gypsy wagon at the Museum of English Rural Life
A gypsy wagon

Carol

Anything else you’d like to share?

Isabel

At MERL, we have an extensive library and archives containing a wealth of stories. Of particular note is our archive of letters that children evacuees during World War II sent to their parents when they were evacuated from the cities to the countryside. Reading was one of the hubs for evacuee children. Some of the letters were positive, depicting the experience as active and fun, while others were from children who were upset and even mistreated.

The labels affixed to the children when they were put on the train to go into the countryside inspired Michael Bond to write the Paddington Bear books in the 1950s.

A group of children being evacuated from the city during World War II
A group of children being evacuated from the city during World War II

Touring the Museum Galleries

After our chat, Isabel takes me around the museum. Seeing it after talking with her really brings it to life. Throughout the galleries are interactive activities for children. MERL has an active school program and welcomes over 50,000 visitors a year, likely a good proportion of them families.

I love the sheep clad in an Aran sweater in the first main gallery.

A large stuffed sheep wearing an Aran sweater
A large stuffed sheep wearing an Aran sweater greets visitors to the first large gallery

The size of MERL surprises me. The galleries go on forever, each one more chock-a-block with artifacts than the last. You can spend a lot of time here!

One of the very large galleries at the Museum of English Rural Life
One of the very large galleries at the Museum of English Rural Life

Land Girls

I’m particularly taken by the collection of objects and photographs related to the Land Girls—young women who worked on the farms during World War II. Here are photographs of several Land Girls and the uniform they wore.

Photograph of five Land Girls, young women who worked the farms during WW II
Land Girls in World War II

Photograph of the uniform worn by Land Girls, young women who worked the farms during WW II
Land Girls uniform in World War II

The Land Girls experience inspired Land Girls, a British TV series available on Netflix.

Traps

A sobering exhibit features various traps—both for animals and people. The two human traps are particularly horrifying. Anyone caught in one would likely die a very slow and painful death. These traps were placed to prevent poaching.

Two traps used prior to 1827 to catch poachers
Human traps, fortunately outlawed in 1827.

We spend almost an hour roaming through the galleries and viewing the open storage collections on the first floor. I’m very impressed with both the size and the quality of the exhibits and am reminded how, in another life, I would have loved to have been a museum curator.

But being a novelist and travel blogger is also good—and MERL ticks the boxes on both fronts. I’m finding plenty of inspiration for the country scenes in Mill Song. The open storage collection of smocks, many beautifully embellished with traditional smocking, reminds me of what some of my characters may have worn. I can also imagine my main character wearing a bonnet, such as the ones displayed, while she helped with the harvest.

Several smocks hanging in open storage at the Museum of Rural Life
These smocks were likely worn for special occasions

A collection of bonnets worn by women on farms in the 19th century
Bonnets in open storage

New Inspiration

To my delight, MERL sparks inspiration for a new novel based around the story of two evacuees in World War II. After my meeting with Isabel, I scribble several pages of notes about possible characters and plots. It looks like I’m going to have to return to MERL to comb through their extensive archive of letters written by evacuees during World War II.

I can only imagine what treasures await.

As the museum gets set to close, Isabel and I pose for a photo, I purchase a notebook that shows a detail from the Cheshire wall hanging, and say my good-byes.

Carol Cram and Isabel Hughes, co-director of the Museum of English Rural Life
Carol Cram with Isabel Hughes, associate director of the Museum of English Rural Life

I walk back to my hotel, enjoy an excellent dinner, and then, finally, turn the lights out at 9. My first day in the UK has been a success.

Exploring the Area

Here are some GetYourGuide tours in southern England. Most depart from London.

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Conclusion

The Museum of English Rural Life is a specialty museum with broad appeal. Touring a museum dedicated to how food was produced back in the day reminds us of our rural roots–and everyone eats food! No matter where you come from, chances are good that at least a few of your ancestors had something to do with agriculture.

The opening times of Museum of English Rural Life are from 10am to 5pm daily and entrance is free. It is located at 6 Redlands Road in Reading, Berkshire. The museum’s extensive website showcases its many exhibits.

Have you visited this museum or another like it? Share your comments and suggestions in the comments below.

Other Specialty Museums on Artsy Traveler

How to See the Art of Pompeii at the National Archaeological Museum in Naples

Italy, Museums & Galleries Artsy Traveler 3 Comments on How to See the Art of Pompeii at the National Archaeological Museum in Naples

Last updated on November 28th, 2025 at 09:58 pm

Naples-bound? Then put the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli aka the National Archaeological Museum of Naples high on your list of must-sees.

I’ve visited Pompeii twice before my most recent trip, and both times, I never managed to visit the Naples National Archaeological Museum. I came close when visiting with my family back in the nineties. We took a taxi from our hotel to the museum on our way to Pompeii only to find it closed.

In those pre-Google days, I’d neglected to read the guide book.

A detailed mosaic depicting various birds, plants, and animals, overlaid with the text, “Art of Pompeii at the National Archaeological Museum in Naples.” The bottom section features the website "artsytraveler.com."

So on my latest trip I was determined to finally see the museum because it houses the vast majority of the art excavated from ancient Pompeii and Herculaneum and is considered one of the best archeological museums in the world.

In this post, I share what I consider the top things to see in this incredible museum.

The National Archaeological Museum of Naples (MANN) is the best place to see the art of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Its top highlights include the Alexander Mosaic, the Farnese sculptures, the Secret Cabinet, vibrant Roman frescoes, fascinating everyday objects that bring the life of the people of Pompeii and Herculaneum to life, and exquisite mosaics from the House of the Faun and other elite villas. It’s a must-visit for anyone who wants to go beyond the ruins to see the towns the way they looked before Vesuvius exploded and buried them for centuries.

Museum & Naples at a Glance

  • Take a guided tour of the museum
  • Museum highlights:
    • The sculpture collection, particularly Hercules at Rest
    • Collection of everyday objects is a poignant reminder of the people who lived and died in Pompeii
    • The “Zootopia” mosaic with its bevy of wild animals
    • Portrait of the poet Sappho
  • Great apartment to stay in Naples: Palazzorefici
  • Recommended tour of Naples that includes Pompeii. 

See the National Archaeological Museum of Naples First!

Now that I’ve toured the National Archaeological Museum, I can without hesitation recommend that you go there first and then tour the ruins of Pompeii and/or Herculaneum. Both cities were buried in the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 CE, with excavations starting at far back as the 16th century.

As you’ll discover, Pompeii and Herculaneum are pretty much all ruins (quel surprise!) with the vast majority of the finest frescoes, mosaics, and statues long ago removed to the National Archaeological Museum in Naples.

You’ll see and learn so much more about ancient Pompeii and Herculaneum at the museum than you will at the archeological sites.

Also, to be honest, wandering around Pompeii in the heat (I visited in late April and it was 30 degrees) with thousands of other visitors is not as comfortable an experience as strolling through the thoughtfully air-conditioned National Archaeological Museum of Naples.

Consider a guided tour of the museum to make sure you don’t miss any of the many highlights:

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Overview of the National Archaeological Museum in Naples

In this post, I’ll share some of my favorite parts of the National Archaeological Museum in Naples (MANN) with the proviso that the museum is chock-a-block with amazing objects from antiquity.

I’ve rarely seen such a beautifully appointed museum where just about every item in it is worth a stop and a good long look.

You can easily visit the National Archaeological Museum in about two to three hours, depending on your energy level. You’ll also find a good cafe where you can take a break for refueling after touring a floor or two.

I did, and it made all the difference to my enjoyment of the museum. This is a big museum; pace yourself!

The exterior of the National Archaeological Museum of Naples, a grand pink building with arched windows, statues, and palm trees lining the street under a clear blue sky.
Exterior of the National Archaeological Museum of Naples

Getting Tickets

When I toured MANN in late April, the crowds were light (unlike the next day in Pompeii!) and I waited only a few minutes at the entrance to buy tickets.

In busier times of the year, you may want to skip the ticket line by buying your tickets online from the museum’s website or through resellers such as Get Your Guide.

Plan of Attack

The museum is organized according to type of art, so you’ll find rooms full of artifacts from Pompeii, including sculptures, mosaics, everyday objects, frescoes, and coins.

I saw most of what was on display in the sculpture, mosaic, everyday objects, and fresco areas. The quality of the work is awe-inspiring.

I suggest starting with the sculptures on the ground floor and then going to the top floor and working your way down. Doing so minimizes stair climbs (there’s an elevator to whisk you to the second floor) and conserves energy.

Ground Floor – Monumental Sculpture and the Farnese Collection

Begin your visit among the museum’s most imposing masterpieces. The ground floor houses the legendary Farnese sculptures, a collection of Roman-era copies of Greek originals that set the tone for the grandeur of MANN.

Here you’ll find colossal works like the Farnese Hercules and the Farnese Bull, displayed in airy halls that allow their dramatic scale to shine.

Sculptures

Wowza! They are stunning. I didn’t expect to see so many really large sculptures that looked like they were chiseled yesterday when in fact they are almost 2000 years old.

Here’s a selection of my favorites.

Hercules at Rest

Even big guys like Hercules can use some time off now and again. This massive sculpture of old Herc shows him leaning on his club. The sculpture is a Roman copy from the end of the 2nd/beginning of the 3rd Century CE of a Greek statue from the second half of the 4th century BCE.

The subject of Hercules at rest is a very popular one. It shows him exhausted and pensive after having undertaken yet another labor for his cousin Eurytheus.

While the top half of Hercules sags with fatigue, his legs and feet still look dynamic, as if he was ready to spring into action (yet again) at any moment. His exaggerated musculature and weary pose epitomize the heroic ideal in Roman art.

The sheer size of the statue took my breath away–and it’s just one of many dozens of sculptures in MANN.

A massive marble statue of Hercules standing, leaning on his club draped with a lion’s skin. The muscular figure is displayed in a grand hall with museum visitors in the background.

Hercules is part of the Farnese Collection, which was one of the first collections of artistic items from Greco-Roman antiquity.

It was started by  Cardinal Alessandro Farnese (he later became Pope Paul III) back in the 16th century when collecting antiquities started being all the rage.

Farnese Bull

The largest surviving ancient sculpture group, the Farnese Bull captures the myth of Dirce, dramatically carved with twisting bodies and swirling drapery. Its sheer scale and technical ambition make it a showpiece of the museum’s classical collection.

Farnese Bull MAN Napoli Inv6002 n07
Naples National Archaeological Museum, CC BY 2.5 , via Wikimedia Commons

Dog Sculptures

Large sculptures dominate the sculpture collection, but they are by no means the only sculptures worth admiring at MANN.

Here are three incredibly charming sculptures of Roman pooches. They look like they could come to life at any minute and run toward you, tails wagging.

A marble sculpture of a dog sitting and scratching itself with its hind leg, carved with detailed musculature and a lifelike posture.
Two marble statues of dogs seated on stone bases, both with their heads tilted upwards, possibly barking or howling. The detailed carvings highlight the dogs’ muscular forms and expressive faces.
A marble statue of a dog lying down on a stone base, its body relaxed and head slightly raised. The sculpture captures the animal’s muscular build and detailed features.

Athena

Athena is the Goddess of Wisdom, along with warfare and handicrafts. The next time you pick up a knitting project, call on Athena for some extra guidance!

This sculpture (bigger than can possibly be portrayed in a photo) really shows off Athena’s robes in all their pleated glory.

A marble statue of the goddess Athena in full armor, holding out a shield-like cloth decorated with a gorgon’s face. The statue stands tall in a museum setting with visitors in the background.

Bust of a Woman

I don’t know who this is but I love her hair!

She looks a bit careworn, perhaps from having to cope with all those corkscrew locks every day. I also loved the black stone, which is an interesting break from the predominantly cream-colored marble that was used to create most of the other sculptures in MANN.

It’s hard to believe this sculpture dates back two millennia. Like most of the sculptures in MANN, the bust is in near perfect shape.

A bronze bust of a woman’s head with intricate spiral-patterned hair. The sculpture rests on a pedestal, showing lifelike facial features and detailed craftsmanship.

Petite Figure

This small statuette of a child is one of several equally adorable pieces. You can understand how the artists who are descended from the ones who sculpted these pieces came up with cupids!

The pieces look incredibly lifelike.

A marble sculpture of a young boy seated, holding a cornucopia filled with fruits. The sculpture captures intricate details of the boy’s curly hair and gentle expression.

Second Floor – Daily Life & Frescoes

The second floor brings you close to the vibrant visual culture of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Everyday objects and frescoes reveal how ancient Romans decorated their homes, dined, groomed, worshipped, and lived. Highlights include the extensive rooms of wall paintings, along with jewelry, silverwork, and domestic tools that reconstruct life before 79 CE.

Everyday Objects

After checking out the sculptures, take the elevator directly to the second floor to tour the collection of everyday objects salvaged from Pompeii and Herculaneum and

For me, a highlight of the MANN collection is the vast array of household and everyday objects that were salvaged from Pompeii during excavations that began in the late 18th century. Many of the objects were remarkably preserved, including pots, glassware, small statues of household gods, combs, jewelry, and cooking utensils.

The ancient Roman versions of pretty much everything humans need to cook, clean, and live in houses is on display.

It turns out that Romans aren’t all that different from us when it comes to the stuff they had in their houses. Take away our electronics and indoor plumbing, and we’re left with similar objects to those used by the average Pompeii resident: wine bottles, cooking pots, jewelry, cups, combs, chairs, and the like.

Here are some particularly fine examples of the household objects salvaged from the ruins of both Herculaneum and Pompeii.

Terracotta Frog

Is this little guy not the sweetest thing? It’s a statuette of a frog made from lead-glazed terracotta. I’m not sure what he was used for, but he sure caught my eye.

And he was just one of many, many such objects artfully displayed in room after well-lit room at MANN.

A terracotta sculpture of a frog with a wide mouth, seated on a base. The texture and details of the frog’s body are finely crafted.

Deep Wine Cup

Look at the handiwork on this lead-glazed terracotta wine cup! It’s decorated with vegetable motifs and doves. Imagine drinking your wine out of that.

A brown ceramic wine cup with two handles shaped like animal heads. The surface is decorated with floral patterns and intricate detailing.

Cosmetic Jar

Ladies in Pompeii wore cosmetics just like women do today. But with plastic rather lacking in those days, they stored their cosmetics in glass containers such as the one shown below.

Again, it looks brand new! The jar is described as free-blown glass from the 1st century CE.

A cylindrical blue glass container with a fitted lid, labeled with the number "3." The container’s surface has minor scratches and signs of age.

Blue Glass Pitcher

And last but not least, I have to include this perfect example of a free-blown glass pitcher. Look at the color! There were also many, many more examples of pitchers blown in darker tones as well as clear glass.

I still can’t get over how they survived the blast, but I guess the ash buried things so thoroughly that they were preserved during the 1800 odd years they lay undisturbed. Remarkable!

A deep blue ancient glass vase with a curved handle and narrow spout, displayed against a white background. The surface shows subtle signs of wear.

Portraits

MANN includes several portraits of Romans in its collection. One of the most famous is the portrait of the baker Therentius Neo and his wife. Don’t they look contemporary?

Walking along the streets of Naples after visiting MANN brought us face to face with several of their descendants!

Terentius Neo and his wife - a Roman portrait at MANN

Here is another very famous portrait, this one of the poet Sappho, or at least that’s how it’s billed. The truth is that we don’t know if the portrait is actually of Sappho. It’s rather a “typological” representation of a young woman holding a stylus and a wax tablet, two things the real poet Sappho would likely have had.

Anyway, it’s nice to think the portrait really is of Sappho which is probably why the image is everywhere in the gift shop, including on the fridge magnet I bought.

A fresco depicting a woman, believed to be the poet Sappho, holding a stylus to her lips and a wax tablet in her other hand. She has curly hair and wears gold earrings, set against a cracked circular frame.

Could This be My Next Character?

And finally, I came across this lovely mosaic portrait of a young woman. According to the description, the mosaic dates to the Julian-Claudian era (27 BCE to 68 CE) in Pompeii. She’s likely pretty high born (check out the necklace).

I love how she looks directly out at the viewer. If I do decide to write a novel set in ancient Rome (and I am toying with some ideas), then this mosaic could be the image of my main character!

An ancient mosaic portrait of a young woman with dark hair tied back, wearing pearl earrings and a necklace. Her gaze is serious, and the background is composed of brown mosaic tiles

Pompeii Frescoes Galleries

Frescoes and paintings galore! You won’t believe how many paintings and frescoes you’ll find at MANN. This is because the Romans lavishly painted the inside walls of their villas and added painted embellishments just about anywhere there was a blank wall.

That so many of these paintings survived the eruption of Vesuvius is truly astonishing.

The Romans were unbelievably good painters. They’d mastered perspective and realism 1500 years before the Renaissance. So many of the paintings in MANN look like they could have been painted in the past few hundred years, particularly the gorgeous still lifes.

Here’s my best picks at MANN.

Isis & Snakes

Snakes are quite a recurring theme in the paintings in MANN. I’m not sure why that is; perhaps sea serpents were bigger and more threatening back in the day.

For whatever reason, you’ll see snakes depicted in mosaics and frescoes, and included as details on pots, urns, and other objects.

This fresco, which had once graced the wall of a villa in Pompeii, shows Isis hauling the boat with the body of Osiris along the Nile accompanied by snakes lurking below the surface. Cheerful.

An ancient fresco showing two busts of figures flanking a scene of a boat on water with a shrine and a bird. Beneath them are two large, coiled snakes and a small temple-like structure.

Still Lifes

I couldn’t believe the quality and quantity of still life paintings at MANN. The realism truly is incredible. I have a soft spot for still lifes. See my post about the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam where some of my fave still lifes are exhibited.

I never knew that the ancient Romans were so adept at creating them. Here are two still lifes–one of dead birds and mushrooms, and the other of a bunny with onions.

A fresco depicting dead birds hanging on a wooden rod above a collection of mushrooms. The muted colors and detailed rendering capture a sense of realism.
A fresco still life depicting a dead rabbit lying on a wooden surface alongside figs and pomegranates. The painting shows detailed textures of the fur and fruits.

First Floor – Mosaics, Masterpieces, and the Secret Cabinet

The first floor is devoted to some of the museum’s most beautiful and unforgettable works. The celebrated Alexander Mosaic and the dazzling Pompeii mosaic galleries showcase intricate craftsmanship and elite taste. Nearby, the Secret Cabinet presents a curated collection of Roman erotic art that was once hidden from public viewing and is now one of the museum’s most fascinating highlights.

Mosaics

The people of Pompeii and Herculaneum sure liked their mosaics. The floors of many houses, particularly those belonging to rich people (of which there were quite a few in Pompeii), were decorated with mosaics.

The mosaics in MANN give just a taste of just how opulent the homes must have been. The intricacy of the designs really is breathtaking.

Zootopia Mosaic

Here is a series of three mosaics, displayed in horizontal format, but shown here in three parts to better check out the imagery. Each of these mosaics includes a bevy of wild animals, from hippos to snakes to ducks to crocodiles. What a tour de force!

An elaborate mosaic showing a hippopotamus with an open mouth, ducks, and a crocodile in a marsh setting. The scene is filled with reeds and blooming flowers.
A detailed mosaic featuring ducks, snakes, and a boar set among water plants and flowers. The snakes are shown coiling and slithering in the water.
A vibrant mosaic depicting ducks swimming in water, surrounded by lotus flowers and plants. The ducks are shown in various poses with intricate feather details.

Dog Mosaic

The Romans definitely liked dogs! Here’s another depiction of a dog, this time in mosaic form. This image is very popular; it’s on various products sold in the gift shop, including bags, fridge magnets, and mouse pads.

I did buy a fridge magnet at the MANN gift shop, but of Sappho (see above) not the dog!

A Roman mosaic featuring a black dog on a leash, shown mid-stride with its mouth open, against a background of small white tiles. The leash is highlighted in red.

Sea Creatures

Can you imagine the imagination that concocted this delectable cornucopia of sea creatures? Wow! I particularly like the giant octopus in the middle. The mosaic also reminds me of the kinds of displays you’d see in 19th century natural history museums.

A detailed mosaic depicting various sea creatures, including fish, an octopus, a lobster, and eels, all set against a dark background. The intricate artwork highlights the diversity of marine life.

Secret Cabinet (Gabinetto Segreto)

Don’t miss the Secret Cabinet if you’re inclined to view the museum’s extensive collection of erotic and sexually-themed objects and paintings salvaged from Pompeii and Herculaneum.

The room was finally re-opened in 2000 with a display that organizes objects according to their, ah, function and material. 

It’s a bit of an eye-opener, but definitely interesting and proving there is nothing new under the sun!

Alexander Mosaic

This spectacular floor mosaic—made of over a million tiny tesserae—shows Alexander the Great charging at King Darius. Its energy, shading, and drama reveal the sophistication of Hellenistic art and the extraordinary taste of Pompeii’s elite.

Alexander the Great mosaic

Practical Information for Visiting MANN

Location

The museum is located at Piazza Museo 19 in Naples, which is just north of the historic center and is easily reached by Metro Line 1 (Museo stop) or Line 2 (Cavour stop). Take a taxi if you can, if only to experience driving in Naples traffic without having to drive yourself. It’s wild!

Opening Hours

Open daily except Tuesdays, when the museum is closed. Hours are generally 9:00–19:30, with last entry about an hour before closing. Check the official site before you go, as special exhibitions may affect schedules.

Tickets

You can buy tickets at the entrance, but advance booking is recommended on weekends, holidays, and high season (April–October). Combination tickets that include temporary exhibitions may also be available.

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Best Time to Visit

Arrive right at opening for the quietest experience. The crowds tend to gather mid-morning in the Farnese galleries and again in the fresco and mosaic rooms.

Bag Storage & Security

Check large bags and backpacks at the free cloakroom. Standard security screening is required at the entrance.

Photography

Photography is generally allowed without flash. Some temporary exhibitions may have restrictions.

Accessibility

Elevators connect all major floors, and most galleries are fully accessible. If you have mobility concerns, ask staff for the recommended accessible route, as the museum’s layout can feel labyrinthine.

Facilities

There is a small café and bookshop on the ground floor. Restrooms are available on multiple levels, although not always near the main galleries.

Naples Archeological Museum FAQs

Here are some of the questions I’ve been asked about visiting the Naples Archeological Museum.

What are the must-see highlights at the Naples Archaeological Museum?

The top highlights include the Alexander Mosaic, Farnese Hercules, Farnese Bull, Pompeii frescoes, mosaics from elite villas, the Secret Cabinet, and the poignant everyday objects used by the people of Pompeii and Herculaneum.

Is the best Pompeii art in Naples or at Pompeii itself?

Most of the finest art—including mosaics, frescoes, and luxury objects—was moved to Naples for protection. The ruins show the context; Naples shows the masterpieces. On a hot day, the museum is a far superior experience to the often over-crowded and sun-blasted ruins.

How long do I need to see the Naples Archaeological Museum?

Plan 1 hour for essentials and 2–3 hours for a full highlights visit. The museum is large and best enjoyed at a relaxed pace. Take breaks in the museum cafe.

Do I need to book tickets in advance?

Booking ahead is recommended during high season and weekends, although day-of tickets are often available.

Is the Secret Cabinet open to all visitors?

Yes. The formerly restricted cabinet is now open to all adults. It’s small but packed with an eye-popping selection of Roman erotic art and objects from Pompeii and Herculaneum.

Can I see everything from the Villa of the Mysteries here?

No, the frescoes remain in Pompeii, but related stylistic examples and other major frescoes from elite villas are displayed at MANN. While the Villa of the Mysteries is interesting to visit, you’ll get a better fresco experience and see a lot more variety at MANN.

Tour Options in the Naples Area

Here are some Get Your Guide and Tiqets.com tickets and tours you may wish to consider while in the Naples area. I frequently purchase tours and tickets from Get Your Guide and Tiqets.com and have yet to be disappointed. The tours they include on their website are, in my experience, reasonably priced and interesting.

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Walking Tours of Naples

If you enjoy walking tours, then you can’t go wrong with GuruWalks. Check out their tours in Naples.

Where to Stay in Naples

Here are the two places I’ve stayed in Naples:

The Hotel Paradiso is located on Posillipo Hill and has a commanding view across the Bay of Naples to Mount Vesuvius. Relax on the terrace and enjoy! The hotel is comfortable and reasonably priced.

The Palazzorefici is a stylish apartment deep in the heart of Naples on a tiny side street. It’s close to a main street where you can easily get taxis to where you want to go in Naples.

Conclusion

In this post, I’ve just scratched the surface of the collection at the National Archaeological Museum of Naples. I recommend you make time in your itinerary to visit, preferably as I said earlier, before you visit Pompeii.

In fact, if I had to choose between visiting Pompeii and visiting the museum, I’d choose the museum. Yes, I know that the ruins are way more famous, and they are pretty impressive. However, they truly are mobbed with visitors.

And they are BIG! If you can, visit very early in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid the heat. Alternatively, visit at a time of year when temperatures are less ferocious. There is virtually no shade anywhere.

Have you visited the National Archaeological Museum in Naples? What were some of your favorite objects? Share in the comments below.

Here are some more posts to give you a taste of Italy or check Visiting Italy to see the full list of posts about Italy.

Carol Cram in Amsterdam

Two Terrific Small Museums In Amsterdam You Should Visit

Museums & Galleries, Netherlands Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on Two Terrific Small Museums In Amsterdam You Should Visit

Last updated on November 28th, 2025 at 10:18 pm

I love Amsterdam, which is why on almost every trip to Europe I make it my first stop. Since 1970 on my epic first trip to Europe with my mom, I’ve visited Amsterdam fifteen times. You’d think I’d have run out of places to see by now, but I haven’t. On my most recent visit to AmsterdamX, I discovered two new-to-me museums that I highly recommend.

First is the National Maritime Museum (#1 on the map below) and second is the Rembrandt House Museum (Rembrandt Huis – #2). Both deliver an excellent bang for your euro. The map below also shows the location of my recommended hotel (#3) and for context, Amsterdam’s two heavyweight museums: the Rijksmuseum (#4) and the Van Gogh Museum (#5).

Pinterest graphic with th text two terrific small museums in amsterdam. Above the text is a picture of the Maritime museum and below the picture is a picture of Rembrandt's studio in the Rembrandt House museum.

This map was created with Wanderlog, the best trip planner app on iOS and Android

National Maritime Museum

Despite all my visits to the city, I’d never heard about Amsterdam’s excellent Maritime Museum. On my latest trip, the taxi drove us right past the massive replica of an 18th century Dutch three-master sailing ship (the Amsterdam) moored in the harbor. I asked him what it was and he told us it was part of the National Maritime Museum. Intrigued, I looked it up when we got to the hotel, which turned out to be only a six-minute walk away.

Arriving at the National Maritime Museum

The National Maritime Museum is housed in a stately three-storey building on the edge of Amsterdam’s massive harbor and adjacent to the Amsterdam ship moored in the harbor. After entering at the south side of the building, we walked into a spacious covered atrium with entrances leading to the north, west and east.

Outside the National Maritime Museum in Amsterdam
Outside the National Maritime Museum in Amsterdam

Touring The Amsterdam

We headed first for the north door that led straight out to a wharf and the docked replica of the Amsterdam. What a sight! The huge hull rose several storeys above our heads, above which soared three masts.

Old style three masted ship moored at the Maritime Museum in Amsterdam
A replica of the East Indiaman Amsterdam at the National Maritime Museum

We boarded the ship and were immediately engulfed by a posse of schoolchildren all wearing yellow safety vests and swarming through the sailors’ quarters. Apart from the kids, the quarters looked spacious until I realized the space would house a crew of 191 sweaty sailors. The smells and swells on a rough day at sea would not have been pretty.

Interior of Amsterdam tall ship at the National Maritime Museum in Amsterdam
Sailors quarters in the Amsterdam tall ship at the National Maritime Museum in Amsterdam

Information about the Amsterdam

Throughout the ship, descriptions in both English and Dutch provided fascinating glimpses into the history of the original Amsterdam and Dutch trade back in the 17th and 18th centuries. I learned that on one voyage, the Amsterdam carried one captain, 191 sailors, 128 marines, 11 artisans, and 3 women passengers for a total of 334 people. That’s a lot of bodies to squeeze onto a ship that, while large, wasn’t that large. I found it a bit crowded with a school group of maybe 30 kids!

Eating on the Amsterdam

In the galley at the front of the ship, the cook would prepare meals for everyone on board, who would then take turns eating in groups of seven. The captain and passengers got the best and freshest food, leaving the crew to half starve and fall prey to diseases such as typhus, dysentery, and scurvy. It must have been pretty grim, particularly since long voyages to destinations in the East Indies took many, many months.

Women Dressed as Men

I was particularly taken by a description of women dressed as men who sailed on the Dutch ships. Some were forced by circumstances to earn money; some were likely trying to escape an unhappy marriage; some maybe just wanted adventure. Unfortunately, any woman who was trying to pass herself off as a man on a ship was severely punished.

In 1770, a woman called Margereta Reymers dressed as a man and joined the crew of the East Indiaman Schoonzicht under the name Hans Hendrik Reymers on a ship sailing to Asia. Margereta was discovered two months into the voyage and put ashore at Cape Town where a man who had promised to marry her left her pregnant.

Eventually, Margereta managed to find a place on a ship returning to the Netherlands. Her daughter was born at sea. No one knows what happened to Margereta and her daughter afterwards. Hmmm – therein lies an interesting idea for a novel!

The Maritime Museum Exhibits

The museum itself is quite vast and beautifully curated. If you are into ships, navigation, and sailing, you could spend many happy hours there. I particularly enjoyed the displays of figureheads and model ships.

Exhibit at the Maritime Museum of Amsterdam of figureheads from old ships
Exhibit at the maritime Museum in Amsterdam of model ships

For more information about the National Maritime Museum, check out their informative website: https://www.hetscheepvaartmuseum.com/

After touring the National Maritime Museum, we enjoyed lunch in a typical Dutch pub, then headed to the Rembrandt House Museum, which was about a ten minute walk from our hotel.

The Rembrandt House Museum

Unlike the National Maritime Museum, I had heard about the Rembrandt House Museum, but had never managed to visit it. I thought it would be a rather dusty old place with little to recommend it beyond the fact that Rembrandt once lived there.

I discovered that I was wrong and that the Rembrandt House Museum is well worth an hour of any artsy traveler’s time.

Renovated Museum

The museum has been recently renovated to include an adjacent building containing the entrance area, a gift shop (of course), and two floors of exhibition space.

We entered the airy modern foyer, purchased our tickets and picked up our audio guides. We don’t usually go for audio guides, but the man at the desk told us they were essential to our enjoyment of the museum and so we dutifully donned the earphones and headed for door leading into the house that Rembrandt called home for 19 years.

Touring Rembrandt House

For the next hour or so, we drifted from room to room and up several sets of winding staircases to explore the nooks and crannies of what was—and still is—a large and comfortable home. Rembrandt was flying high when he and his wife purchased the house. He was receiving many commissions in addition to earning a sizable chunk of his income from teaching wannabe Rembrandts.

But regrettably, Rembrandt was not the best of businessmen. After nineteen years of enjoying the good life, Rembrandt’s many creditors forced him to sell just about everything not nailed down and move across town.

Rembrandt’s Misfortunes are History’s Gains

I learned that it was thanks to Rembrandt’s financial misfortunes that his house has been so immaculately recreated. When Rembrandt was forced to liquidate all his assets, he left behind an extremely detailed inventory of the house contents. Historians were able to use this inventory to faithfully recreate the rooms in his house so that today we can wander through them secure in the knowledge that they looked more or less the same as they did in Rembrandt’s day—except with electric light and tourists listening to audio guides.

The comprehensive audio guide provided us with a wealth of information about each of the rooms we entered—from grand salon to the room of curiosities to Rembrandt’s gorgeously bright and airy painting studio. In each room, audio commentary described the room and its uses, and provided information about Rembrandt’s life and work.

Rembrandt House Highlights

Box Beds

One of several box beds in the house was situated in the main salon, and like every box bed in the house (there were several) was much shorter than would seem reasonable to accommodate an average-sized human. I learned that back in Rembrandt’s time, people slept sitting up and so had no need of a bed that extended their full height. Apparently, the prevailing medical wisdom of the day dictated that sleeping completely prone was very bad for the health. Peering into the box beds, I shuddered at the thought of actually sleeping in one. If you are at all prone to claustrophobia, you wouldn’t last ten minutes.

The box bed shown below was in the main salon and would be for visitors.

Box bed in Rembrandt Hour in Amsterdam
Box bed for visitors
Etching Studio

Rembrandt was known for his etchings, many of which he made in the etching studio. Nowadays, a rubber-gloved attendant demonstrates the art of etching. Unfortunately, we missed her demonstration but it was likely very similar to the one we saw at the house of Albrecht Dürer in Nuremberg. In fact, the setup of the Rembrandt House Museum reminded me of the Dürer museum. You can read about our visit there in my page about Artsy Sightseeing in Germany.

Printing press in Rembrandt House museum etching room
Painting Studio

Stepping into Rembrandt’s large painting studio feels quite magical. Although now filled with visitors all listening intently to their audio guides, it’s salutary to remember that you are actually treading the same floor boards and looking out the same windows as Rembrandt did four hundred years previously.

The room faces north, an aspect favored by painters because the light varies the least throughout the day. The studio is at the top of the house and so would have been as bright and airy as any room in a 17th- century house could be.

Easel where Rembrandt worked at the Rembrandt House Museum in Amsterdam
Large painting studio where Rembrandt painted aat the Rembrandt House Museum in Amsterdam

The studio includes a large video screen that shows a demonstration of how Rembrandt and his assistants made pigments. I’m familiar with the process of grinding and mixing the pigments from my research for The Towers of Tuscany. But whereas my characters in 14th-century Italy mixed their pigments with egg yolks, Rembrandt and his contemporaries mixed pigments with linseed oil.

Colors used to make paint at the Rembrandt House Museum in Amsterdam
Small Painting Studio

I was quite taken with the second painting studio which was partitioned into four sections to accommodate four students.The whole setup looked so modern. Apparently, Rembrandt made 30% of his annual income from students, but even that income wasn’t enough to keep him afloat. I wonder what became of the students after Rembrandt had to liquidate!

But check out these studios. Many artists would feel quite at home in one today!

Student cubicles at the Rembrandt House Museum in Amsterdam
The Room of Curiosities

Like many people of his time, particularly artists, Rembrandt was an avid collector. His many collections fill the room of curiosities–from parrot feathers and stuffed caimans and armadillos, to tortoise shells, butterflies, rocks, and a hundred other exotic bits and pieces he accumulated over the years. Amsterdam, of course, was a port, and so Rembrandt was able to acquire objects from around the globe that had been brought to Amsterdam by the sailors.

Room of Curiosities at the Rembrandt House museum in Amsterdam
Exhibition Center

After touring Rembrandt’s house, we funneled back into the exhibition center. There wasn’t much on when we were there, but I did appreciate the projection of a montage of Rembrandt’s greatest hits.

Montage of Rembrandt's works at the Rembrandt House Museum in Amsterdam

Visiting Rembrandt’s House

For more information and to purchase tickets, check out the Rembrandt House website: https://www.rembrandthuis.nl/en/

You can also purchase your tickets in advance from Get Your Guide. As I’ve mentioned many times on Artsy Traveler, I’m a big fan of Get Your Guide. Click the image below to go to their website.

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Wandering Around Amsterdam

On my stopover in Amsterdam in 2024, I stayed only two nights, but still managed to log several kilometers of wandering. Amsterdam is a fantastic city for walking, so long as you keep a very sharp eye out for cyclists. They go very, very fast! I wonder how many tourists who stepped off a curb without looking ended up in Emergency.

In the evening of our only full day in Amsterdam, we met Gregg’s artist friend Rik Lina in his home and went out for a wonderful Caribbean dinner. Here Rik is with Gregg in front of one of his paintings. He and Gregg have been collaborating for years. Notice the collection of masks. Like Rembrandt, Rik is an avid collector.

Dutch artist Rik Lina in front of one of his paintings with Canadian artist Gregg Simpson
Dutch artist Rik Lina in front of one of his paintings with Canadian artist Gregg Simpson

Amsterdam at Night

After dinner, we strolled through Amsterdam in the moonlight, crossing many canals and passing an endless number of intriguing storefronts. Amsterdam has an admirably eclectic variety of stores carrying everything from Old Master knock-offs to rubber duckies to high fashion to painted cows. I adore window shopping in Amsterdam.

Painted cows in a shop in Amsterdam
Painted cows in a shop in Amsterdam

Amsterdam at night truly is magical! The side streets are quiet, the canals serene in the moonlight, the bike traffic considerably calmed. You can wander for hours, imagining yourself into a cityscape that hasn’t changed appreciably for four hundred odd years.

View of Amsterdam's iconic houses at night

Other Tours in Amsterdam

There’s so much to see in Amsterdam for the artsy traveler! I highly recommend booking one of the Get Your Guide tours, if only to skip the line at the most popular museums. I’ve consistently found Get Your Guide tours to be good value, and have taken them in Rome, Venice, Paris, Madrid, and Sirmione. Here are links to Get Your Guide tours in Amsterdam.

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I also often purchase tickets and tours through Tiqets.com. Here are some options for Amsterdam.

And finally, check out a walking tour with GuruWalks. They offer these tours in Amsterdam:

Staying in Amsterdam

Over the years, I’ve stayed in many different places in Amsterdam–from Airbnbs to hotels on the outskirts. Our stay in 2024 was one of the best–and also the most reasonably priced considering the location and amenities.

I’m not usually a big fan of chain hotels, but to my surprise the Holiday Inn Express – City Hall in Amsterdam, steps from the harbor and within walking distance of old Amsterdam, was a perfect choice. The view of the canal from our window was endlessly fascinating depending on the time of day and the shifting April weather, the room was comfortable, and the staff friendly and helpful.

View of canals from the window of a room at the Holiday Inn Express - city Hall in Amsterdam
View of canals from the window of a room at the Holiday Inn Express – City Hall in Amsterdam

I also appreciated the large urn full of citrus fruits and water in the lobby. Every time I came into the hotel, I helped myself to a refreshing glass of citrus water.

Here are other options for staying in Amsterdam. I recommend you resist the temptation to opt for the cheaper places outside the city center. Amsterdam is worth the splurge. Book a place as close to the ring of canals as you can and enjoy many happy hours of wandering–particularly after dark.

 

Conclusion

Have you visited Amsterdam? What are some of your best picks? Share your experiences in the comments below.

For more about Amsterdam, check out these posts:

Uffizi Gallery: Top 10 Must-See Masterpieces and How to Visit

Italy, Museums & Galleries Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on Uffizi Gallery: Top 10 Must-See Masterpieces and How to Visit

Last updated on November 28th, 2025 at 05:43 am

The Uffizi Gallery in Florence is chock full of masterpieces, and an Artsy Traveler must-visit, particularly for first-time visitors to Florence who love Renaissance art.

Few artsy traveler pursuits equal the joy of wandering blissfully through rooms full of many of western Europe’s most iconic masterpieces by Michelangelo, Raphael, da Vinci, Giotto, and more.

Every time I visit Florence (and I’ve visited at least five times), I set aside several hours to enjoy the Uffizi Gallery.

Pinterest graphic with the text Uffizi Gallery at the top over a picture of the exterior of the Uffizi gallery in Florence, Italy. At the bottom is the text Top Ten Favorites for the Florence-Bound Traveler.

If you’re visiting the Uffizi for the first time, you may feel overwhelmed. Which paintings should you spend time with? Where are they? How do you avoid crowds? How do you get tickets?

I wrote this post to help you to slow down and focus on a handful of truly great works: my top ten. Also included are practical tips on when to visit, how to book timed-entry tickets, and whether a guided tour is worth it.

Take time to savor the art, and don’t try to see everything. Oh, and take advantage of the benches in some of the rooms to set a spell and just drink in all the beauty.

Quick Facts – Uffizi Gallery in Florence

  • Must-see works: Birth of Venus, The Duke and Duchess of Urbino, Madonna of the Goldfinch, The Battle of Romano, Judith Beheading Holofernes (and more)
  • Best time to visit: Early morning as soon as the museum opens or late afternoon; book a timed entry ticket to avoid long lines.
  • Recommended booking in advance: Skip-the-line tour + timed ticket for main gallery.
  • Visit duration: Allow at least 2–3 hours; if you’re an art-lover allow 4+ hours (take some breaks).
  • Where to stay nearby: Santa Croce / Oltrarno (less crowded), historic centre near Piazza della Signoria.
  • Transport tip: From Florence Santa Maria Novella station it’s a 10-minute walk; use the Firenze Card if visiting multiple museums.

Overview

The Uffizi (which means offices) was built in the mid 16th century by the all-powerful Medici family to administer their vast holdings and show off their art collections.

Designed by Giorgio Vasari, the Uffizi was opened to the public as a museum in 1769.

The Uffizi is big and crowded and quick frankly, overwhelming. All that amazing art concentrated in one space makes for a heady experience. Take your time and enjoy the ride.

Assume you’ll return!

When to Visit the Uffizi Gallery

The very best time to visit the Uffizi Gallery is first thing in the morning, particularly if you are visiting in high season (April to October).

You’ll have the vast complex to yourself, at least for a little while, so you can trip wide-eyed from room to room in peace. You may even snag a place in front of one of the two most famous Botticellis without sharing air with dozens of other people.

If you’re visiting Florence between November and March, you’ll find fewer crowds and a more relaxed pace. As a result, you’ll likely be comfortable visiting at any time of day.

On a recent visit to Florence in November, I chose an afternoon time. Although the Uffizi Gallery was less crowded than I’ve found it at other times of the year, it was hardly empty. I still saw a long line-up of people who hadn’t gotten the memo about buying their tickets in advance, and large groups of art lovers still jockeyed for position in front of the Botticellis.

Carol Cram standing by a bridge over the Arno in Florence. It's November and she's wearing a tam and coat.
Touring Florence in November means cold temperatures but fewer crowds

Getting Tickets to the Uffizi Gallery

No matter what time of year you visit Florence, purchase your tickets to the Uffizi Gallery in advance. In high season, purchase them at least a week or more before your visit. You’ll get the entry time that suits your schedule and you won’t need to queue up.

I arrived at the Uffizi about 45 minutes before the 13:15 entry time on my ticket. The weary ticket collector let me in anyway, probably because it was November. The only delay was getting through security.

Here’s an option from GetYourGuide for buying tickets.

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Location of the Uffizi Gallery

The map below shows the location of the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.

Also shown is the location of the Accademia (#2), the Duomo (aka Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore) at #3, the Bargelo (#4), the Museo di Palazzo Davanzati–an awesome small museum showing what life was like for a wealthy person in medieval Florence (#5), and the gorgeous apartment we stayed in on the banks of the Arno during our three-day stay in Florence in November (#6: see below for more information about the Palazzo Serristori Residence — high recommended).

This map was created with Wanderlog, an itinerary planner on iOS and Android

This map was created with Wanderlog, an itinerary planner on iOS and Android

As mentioned above, the Uffizi Gallery is large and brimming over with amazing art, particularly Renaissance masterpieces.

To avoid burnout, I suggest you focus on enjoying ten to twenty pieces rather than stopping to admire every one. Doing so will quickly exhaust you.

Crowds of people in a hallway in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.
Even in November, visitors throng the long corridors in the Uffizi

The Uffizi’s collection of amazing artwork is spread across two floors, with the most famous pieces by artists such as Botticelli, Michelangelo, Raphael, and Giotto located on the second floor.

I suggest taking the elevator to Level 2 and then starting with the room of medieval art that contains gorgeous works by Giotti, Lorenzetti, and Martini.

Here are my ten favorite pieces in the Uffizi, presented by artist and in the order in which you’ll encounter them.

Giotto

I’ve become a big Giotto fan over the years. Although he died in 1337, Giotto is considered the first artist of the Renaissance because of his use of realism to depict his subjects.

His most famous works are the frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua and in the Basilica of Saint Francis in Assisi.

Madonna and Child Enthroned with Angels and Saints shown below is one of Giotto’s most iconic pieces. It’s truly breathtaking, particularly when you realize that Giotto painted it in 1306 at a time when other artists were still depicting everything on one plane.

Check out the Madonna’s knee under the blue drapery of her gown. It’s three-dimensional. This use of perspective set Giotto apart from his contemporaries and heralded the realism that became the hallmark of Renaissance painters such as Da Vinci and Raphael over 150 years later.

This painting was a source of inspiration for Florentine artists for generations.

Madonna and Child Enthroned with Angels and Saints by Giotto
Madonna and Child Enthroned with Angels and Saints, 1306-10, Giotto

Martini

I have a huge soft spot for Simone Martini, who was active in the mid-14th century. I even include a reference to his Maesta fresco in Siena’s Palazzo Pubblico in my novel The Towers of Tuscany.

In The Annunciation with St. Ansansu and St. Maxima, below, check out Martini’s over-the-top use of gold, as well as how he shows the Archangel Gabriel in relationship to Mary.

Martini depicts a fluttering cloak and unfurled wings to suggest that the angel’s appearance is sudden. No wonder Mary looks distressed, turning away and wrapping her cloak around her. The fact that Gabriel is telling her she’s to be the mother of Jesus would have likely added to her confusion and distress.

In her hand, Mary holds a book. Martini is likening her to a wealthy Sienese woman, the only kind of woman who would be able to afford a book, much less read it. Memmo Lippi is also given credit for the work.

Annunciation by Martini - lots of gold
Annunciation with St. Maxima and St. Ansanus, 1333, Simone Martini and Lippo Memmi

Lorenzetti

Every time I walk into a room of medieval paintings in an art museum, I make a beeline for anything painted by Ambrolgio Lorenzetti. He’s a Siena hometown boy who was a major figure in his day, before succumbing to the plague (so far as we know) in 1348.

He painted The Allegory of Good and Bad Government frescoes in Siena’s Palazzo Publicco, one of the palazzo’s many breathtaking highlights.

Lorenzetti painted the four panels from the life of St. Nicholas shown below. I get such a kick out of Lorenzetti’s depictions of people and life in medieval Siena and the architecture: the graceful archways, exterior staircases, and crenelated rooftops.

I’ve spent a lot of time over the years looking at Lorenzetti’s work to help me visualize what Siena looked like in the mid-14th century so that I can accurately write about the period.

St. Nicolas Gives to the Poor

In the top left painting, St. Nicholas is throwing pieces of gold to a poor man to enable him to gather the dowry required to marry off his daughters. The point is that St. Nicholas is carrying out the charitable deed secretly and humbly, without seeking acknowledgment. What a swell guy!

St. Nicholas Gets Ordained

In the bottom left painting, St. Nicholas is being ordained as a bishop of the city of Myra in Asia Minor. The legend is that the prelates who had gathered to elect the new bishop of Myra heard a voice ordering them to choose the first man named Nicholas who entered the church.

And guess who just happened to walk in?

St. Nicholas Raises the Dead

The top right painting depicts a miracle performed by St. Nicholas after his death. He returns to bring a child back to life after the child was killed by the devil disguised as a pilgrim (the figure in black mounting the stairs).

There’s a lot to look at in this panel. I particularly like the way the figures are portrayed in the upper and lower rooms.

St. Nicholas Talks to Sailors

In the bottom right panel, Nicholas asks sailors to give some of the grain their ships are carrying to the starving people of Myra. When the sailors comply, the ships are miraculously replenished with grain.

Four paintings of the Life of Saint Nicholas by Lorenzetti in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.

Uccello

This large painting by Paolo Uccello dominated the wall on which it was installed in the Uffizi Gallery. Check out all the horses; there’s so much vigor and action.

The painting is called The Battle of San Romano and is part of a cycle of three paintings that celebrated the victory of the Florentine forces over the Sienese troops in 1432.

Poor Siena. It had a tough time after being devastated by plague in 1348 and then suffering numerous mercenary raids, famines, and hostile takeovers culminating in its defeat at the hands of the bellicose Florentines in 1432.

While I’m firmly on the side of Team Siena since I wrote a novel set there, I have to admire how Uccello depicted the battle in his painting.

The batlle of Romano by Uccello
The Battle of Romano, 1435-40, Paolo Uccello

Botticelli

No visit to the Uffizi Gallery is complete without doing some serious swooning in front of two of Botticelli’s most famous paintings–Primavera and The Birth of Venus.

Both paintings are huge and fabulous; that is, if you can get close enough to get a good, long look.

The large room in which the paintings are hung is mobbed with visitors, all brandishing cell phones and elbowing for position to get a good shot.

I know. I was one of them.

Standing in quiet contemplation is out of the question. But it’s still worth seeing the paintings in the flesh, so to speak, just to confirm that yes, indeed, they deserve their vaunted place in western art history.

The figures are ethereal and also realistic, the movement joyous, the themes full of promise and celebration. I don’t think it’s possible to look at Botticelli’s masterpieces and not smile.

Primavera

Here’s what you see while approaching Primavera.

Crowds in front of Primavera by Botticelli

And here’s the shot I managed to get when it was my turn to step in front of the painting.

Primavera by Botticelli i
Primavera, 1480, Sandro Botticelli

Botticelli had chops, all right. Look at how he depicts the gossamer draperies encasing the three dancing muses and the figure to the right. The central figure in the painting is Venus, goddess of love and beauty. She’s a stunner for sure.

The Birth of Venus

The Birth of Venus is just as mobbed as Primavera, which comes as no surprise considering versions of this work appear on everything from aprons to mugs to mouse pads in Florence’s gift shops.

There is so much movement that you can practically feel the wind in your hair as you contemplate this painting, which depicts Venus, goddess of love and beauty, surfing to shore on a clam shell, gently spritzed with sea spray and blown by the winds Zephyr and Aura.

I wasn’t able to get a decent shot of the painting, so the image below is from the Uffizi’s marvelous website.

The birth of Venus by Botticelli, Uffizi Gallery
The Birth of Venus, 1486, Sandro Botticelli

Michelangelo

Florence’s Number One Son is well represented at the Uffizi Gallery and elsewhere in Florence. Thanks to a long and prolific career, Michelangelo’s work is pretty much synonymous with the Italian Renaissance.

One of the masterpieces at the Uffizi Gallery is the magnificent, circular Doni Tondo, the only finished panel painting done by Michelangelo that has survived the centuries.

It glows.

Doni Tondo by Michelangelo in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.
Doni Tondo, 1505-1506, Michelangelo

Piero della Francesca

Piero della Francesca’s double portrait of the Grand Duke of Urbino and his wife positively defines aristocratic haughtiness. Imagine the amount of time the duchess must have had to sit still to have that hairdo done. 

I’m hoping it wasn’t a daily thing.

Look at how the backround continues through from one side to the next. Showing the two figures in profile is a typical device in 15th century portraits that was a throwback to ancient coins. The artist’s attention to detail is a result of his training in both Florentine and Flemish traditions.

The Duke and Duchess of Urbino Frederico da Montefeltro and Battista Sforza, 1473-75, Piero della Francesca
The Duke and Duchess of Urbino Frederico da Montefeltro and Battista Sforza, 1473-75, Piero della Francesca

Leonardo da Vinci

Another big draw to the Uffizi Gallery is the presence of a handful of paintings by Leonardo da Vinci.

My favorite is his Annunciation because I love the contrast in styles between da Vinci’s version done in the late 15th century and Martini’s version done in the mid-14th century (see above).

In da Vinci’s Annunication, the figures are rendered extremely realistically and are also quite static. The Virgin is not shrinking away from the Archangel Gabriel, but is confident and receptive. The trees almost look like fantasy trees, and the distant mountains like something out of Lord of the Rings.

The way da Vinci renders the folds of the clothing is remarkable, considering he completed this painting when he was still quite young.

Annunciation by Leonardo da Vinci in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.
Annunciation, 1472, Leonardo da Vinci

Raphael

I’ve grown to appreciate Raphael’s work over the years. He’s certainly one of the biggies, considered by some to be the greatest painter of them all.

There’s a lot of justification for that view. Unlike Michelangelo and da Vinci, who had other pursuits (science for da Vinci and architecture and sculpture for Michelangelo), Raphael only did painting, and an astonishing amount of it considering he died young, while da Vinci and Michelangelo both lived to ripe old ages.

The work by Raphael I most liked in the Uffizi is Madonna of the Goldfinch. The expression on the face of the Virgin Mary is so youthful and serene. Unlike many Madonnas, she really does look like a young mum.

The trees and landscape in the background are also beautifully rendered. In places, they almost look like something Cézanne would have painted 400 years later.

And check out the red of the Madonna’s gown–so rich and full and Florentine. It’s a keeper.

Madonna of the Goldfinch by Raphael in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.
Mary, Christ and the young John the Baptist, known as “Madonna of the Goldfinch“, 1506, Raffaello Sanzio

More Uffizi

After exploring the long galleries on Level 2 of the Uffizi, descend to Level 1 to take in even more masterpieces of the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries.

Highlights are the Titian’s Venus of Urbino, Caravaggio’s Medusa, and my fave, Judith Beheading Holofernes by Artemisia Gentileschi.

Caravaggio - Medusa - Google Art Project

Holofernes beheading, by Artemisa de Gentileschi

Uffizi Gallery FAQs

Here are answers to questions I’ve been asked most frequently about visiting and enjoying the Uffizi Gallery in Florence:

Which artworks are must-sees at the Uffizi Gallery?

The key works you shouldn’t miss include Botticelli’s Birth of Venus and Primavera, Raphael’s Madonna of the Goldfinch, Michelangelo’s Doni Tondo, Giotto’s Madonna and Child Enthroned with Angels and Saints, da Vinci’a Annunciation, and Artemisia Gentileschi’s Judith Beheading Holofernes.

How long should I plan for a visit to the Uffizi Gallery?

For a solid overview of the top masterpieces, plan for 2–3 hours; art-lovers or slower explorers should allow 4+ hours—and ideally book morning entry to avoid the largest crowds. Take a break or two during your tour to rest and get your bearings.

Is a guided tour worth it at the Uffizi?

Yes, because the museum is vast, and many masterpieces are dispersed. A guided tour or audio guide helps you move efficiently, learn stories behind the art, and skip long entry lines.

What’s the best time to visit the Uffizi Gallery to avoid crowds?

Early morning when the museum opens, or late afternoon near closing time. Avoid weekends and high-season mid-day if you want a calmer experience.

How should I book tickets for the Uffizi Gallery?

Reserve your timed-entry ticket online well ahead, especially if visiting during high season.

Enjoying Florence

You emerge from the Uffizi into the beautiful piazza della Signoria. Here, you’ll stare up at the Palazzo Vecchio with its iconic tower, check out a statue of Michelangelo’s David (the original is displayed in the Accademia), and marvel at the fountain and statue of Neptune.

Here’s a shot of it in the evening.

Neptune's Fountain in the Piazza della Signoria in Florence
Neptune’s Fountain in the Piazza della Signoria in Florence

Resist the urge to stop and have a coffee at one of the cafes in the piazza, These high-rent places cater to tourists and have eye-watering prices.

Walk a few blocks into the maze of streets leading from the piazza toward the river to find slightly less touristy places, although to be honest, Florence is Tourism Central.

And no wonder! It’s crowded, crammed with souvenir shops, and far from undiscovered. But hey, it’s Florence, and there’s no place on Earth quite like it for conjuring the grandeur and pomposity of the Renaissance.

Staying in Florence

On each visit to Florence, I’ve stayed somewhere different, sometimes on the outskirts and sometimes in the middle.

My very favorite place is Serristori Palace Residence. Although a bit on the pricey side, the Serristori Palace Residence is excellent value because of the size of the one-bedroom apartment, with high ceilings, a panoramic view of the river, and its excellent location about a ten minute walk from the action.

Here’s a video I shot from my bedroom window early on a breezy November morning.

The walk that takes you along the Arno to the center of Florence is just spectacular, particularly at sunset. Compared to a typical hotel room in Florence, the Serristori Palace Residence is almost a bargain, at least for Florence.

Here’s a map of Florence showing lots more accommodation options. If you can, stay as close to the centro as you can.

Tickets and Tours in Florence

You can easily spend several days in Florence, immersing yourself in the great art of the western world. If you’re short on time, consider a guided tour.

Here are a few suggestions from GetYourGuide and Tiqets.com. I’ve purchased tours and tickets through both companies and been very satisfied with the prices, the quality of the tours, and the ease of booking

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Walking Tours in Florence

Florence is a great city for a walking tour. It’s relatively small and that is a LOT to see. Check out these tours offered through GuruWalks.

Conclusion

Have you visited the Uffizi? What were some of your favorite pieces? Share your thoughts in the Comments below.

Check out my posts about Italy on my Visiting Italy page. Here are more posts about my recommendations for touring some of Europe’s most iconic museums:

A detailed view of a prehistoric painting in Lascaux IV in the Dordogne. The painting depicts a spotted bull with black and red details, surrounded by abstract shapes and natural rock textures. The artwork demonstrates the expressive techniques used in ancient cave art.

Why Visit Lascaux IV in the Stunning Dordogne

France, Museums & Galleries Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on Why Visit Lascaux IV in the Stunning Dordogne

Last updated on November 28th, 2025 at 05:43 am

A visit to Lascaux IV in the Dordogne region of France is a must for the artsy traveler.

Here you will view the incredible prehistoric cave art created by our artistically-inclined ancestors over 30,000 years ago (give or take a few centuries).

The size, breadth, and sheer beauty of the paintings definitely will take your breath away.

In this post, I’m sharing my experience at Lascaux IV near the charming town of Montignac in the Dordogne region of France.

A close-up of a prehistoric animal painting on a rock, showcasing intricate black and brown details. The text overlay reads "Lascaux IV: Awe-Inspiring Prehistoric Art" with the website "artsytraveler.com" at the bottom.

Location of Lascaux IV

The map below shows the location of Lascaux IV in the Dordogne region of France. It is close to the charming town of Montignac.

Trip map created with Wanderlog, an itinerary planner on iOS and Android

Some Background

The caves of Lascaux were discovered in 1940 by a group of young boys. For fifteen years, it was open to the public until finally being closed in 1963 after it was discovered that bacteria from visitors’ breath was eradicating the paintings at an alarming rate.

I first visited Lascaux II in 1995 almost reluctantly because I knew I wasn’t going to be able to see the “real thing”, so why bother?

Lascaux II

Lascaux II opened in 1984–an almost exact facsimile created to show tourists the paintings in the Great Hall of the Bulls and the Painted Gallery. Purist as I was back in those days, I didn’t think a facsimile could be as good as the real thing.

I was very wrong.

As a cave replica, Lascaux II was small, cramped, and fabulous. The magnificence of the prehistoric paintings blew us away, particularly inspiring Gregg (my husband & an artist–meet him on the About page) to create several paintings related to our visit.

I could hardly believe the paintings were in fact almost exact replicas of the real thing.

Lascaux III and IV

The Lascaux cave’s fame as the premier destination for prehistoric art lovers in France, or indeed all of Europe, continued to grow.

In 2012, reproductions of the paintings, called Lascaux III, were taken on the road. 

Then, in 2016, the massive complex that now houses Lascaux IV and its accompanying museum opened to the public.

The Vézère valley as a whole contains 147 prehistoric sites dating from the Palaeolithic and 25 decorated caves, and has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Preparing to Visit Lascaux IV

Secure your reservations for the English tour weeks before you are planning to visit Lascaux.

There were only three English tours available daily during the three days I was staying in the Dordogne Valley. Even a month out, only a few spots remained in the time slot I wanted (11:10 am).

I snapped up the tickets, printed them off, and looked forward to the ultimate prehistoric treat.

I knew the paintings themselves would not have changed since I saw them in Lascaux II back in 1995, but I was interested to see how the Lascaux IV iteration had enhanced the experience.

Buy Tickets in Advance at https://www.lascaux.fr/en or combine with a tour that includes transport from Sarlat-la-Canéda.

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Touring Lascaux IV

I arrive about twenty minutes before the designated time slot and park in the huge lot across from the long, low modern building housing Lascaux IV, built below the hill that houses the real Lascaux cave.

exterior of Lascaux IV in the Dordogne region of France

In the airy atrium, you can spend the time before your tour starts browsing the gift shop and discovering a whole new level of Lascaux-themed merch.

Before leaving the gift shop, I can’t resist snapping a pic of a whole wall of prehistoric animal stuffies. Is life truly worth living without a stuffed mammoth? I think not.

wall of stuffed animals including mammoths, saber toothed tigers and more

The tour begins with a flurry of English-speaking people affixing headsets and audio receivers as the cheerful guide asks if we are “hearing my voice in your head?”

After several minutes, all thirty or so of us are kitted out and the tour begins in an elevator.

Starting Outside Lascaux IV

We zip up to the roof of the low-slung building and learn about the discovery of the Lascaux cave in 1940. A man was out with his dog Robot (yep, that was the dog’s name) and discovered the narrow entrance to the cave at the top of the wooded hill behind the building. He returned the next day with three boys.

They entered the cave through a 15-metre-deep shaft and discovered cave walls covered with depictions of animals—aurochs, bison, deer, horses, and more.

Our guide plays up the drama of the discovery and then invites us to cast ourselves back 30,000 years to imagine leaving the fresh air to clamber into a dark cave.

He reminds us frequently that the humans who created the paintings in Lascaux are the same as us, biologically speaking. They were Cro-Magnon, relatively recent arrived in the area which had been inhabited for several hundreds of thousands of years by their Neanderthal cousins.

Entering Lascaux IV

With a flourish, the door slides open and we troop into the narrow cave. Our guide exhorts us to proceed in total silence and with reverence for what we are about to witness. He does a good job of setting the scene.

My art sensors are on high alert.

The door slides shut behind us and we are in the first room.

Arching high above us and on the walls either side are an awe-inspiring jumble of painted animals. Some overlap, and the prevailing impression is one of constant, joyous movement. Looking up in the eerie light cast by the guide’s flashlight, the animals sway and gallop across the uneven surfaces of the cave.

Each bump and swell of the simulated rock has been incorporated into the bodies of the animals in exact imitation of how the animals appear in the real cave.

Painting of a horse in Lascaux IV in the Dordogne region of France

Description of Images

The images of animals cavorting above us are not primitive scratchings on a rock wall. This is the prehistoric Sistine Chapel. The beauty and freshness of the vividly colored animals explode in front of us. We gasp with wonder and respect. These early painters truly were artists.

Throughout the tour, the guide emphasizes that we have no idea why the long-ago artists made these paintings. The prevailing theory is that they were made because the artists wanted to make them.

In other words, these cave artists were not much different from an artist in any period. They created the animals they saw outside the cave in all their kinetic glory because, well, they just kinda felt like it. Perhaps they painted during the winter when game was scarce.

Being inside a relatively warm and cozy cave was better than being outside in the snow. Who knows!

Types of Images in Lascaux

The cave contains nearly 6,000 figures, the vast majority of which are animals. One bird-headed human figure appears in a shaft that they don’t include in Lascaux IV (but show in the museum).

The cave also includes various symbols whose meaning archeologists have yet to determine.

representation of a human in Lascaux IV in the Dordogne region of France

There are no images of the surrounding landscape or the local vegetation. The animals charge across the cave walls and ceiling unencumbered by gravity.

Creating the Images

The artists used three colors: red, yellow, and black made from minerals and sometimes mixed with grease. Tools used include early versions of brushes along with tubes for blowing the paint onto the rock.

The museum we enter after touring the replica cave provides many more details.

Hall of the Bulls

First up is the Hall of the Bulls. The clarity, brightness and size of the many images is spectacular. Each animal looks like it was painted yesterday, which is sort of true since it’s a replica, but it’s a replica of what the real caves look like.

The Hall of the Bulls contains 130 figures, including cows, horses, aurochs, and the only bear in the cave. One of the bulls is enormous. Spanning 5.5 meters, it’s the world’s largest known prehistoric representation of an animal.

Also in the hall is the first unicorn—a representation of an animal that never existed in nature.

What was the artist thinking? Why did he or she choose to paint it?

We’ll never know. The guide spends a lot of time focusing on the unicorn and speculating.

Painting of a unicorn in Lascaux IV in the Dordogne region of France

We keep going through the hall to the axial gallery, a 30-meter passage dubbed the Sistine Chapel of Prehistory.

My favorite is the line of small horses merrily cantering along one wall. Called the Frieze of the Small Horses, they face the direction of the entrance to the Axial gallery. Each one is different in color, size, and shape.

Overhead flow more horses and bulls and cows and aurochs and even two ibexes in a joyous celebration of movement and color.

Below is a stock photo of one of the ceilings. Photography inside the replica cave is forbidden so I wasn’t able to snap my own pics.

A photograph of the Lascaux Cave ceiling featuring prehistoric paintings of red and black bison and other animals on a cracked, ochre-toned rock surface. The artwork highlights the artistry and symbolism of early humans.

The Nave

Five large stags follow in a row, only their heads and antlers visible as if they are swimming.

Also there are two black bison facing back to back with the rump of one placed just ahead of the other to give a 3D effect. They look like they are galloping off in opposite directions.

Where Are the Reindeers?

Being inside the replica cave is somewhat claustrophobic and yet wondrous at the same time. I try to imagine what compelled people just like me to lower themselves into a cave and use tools and pigments to cover walls with a riot of animals in motion.

And what’s even more astonishing is that not one of the animals depicted is a reindeer—the most plentiful animal roaming the landscape at the time.

Why did the artists only depict the less common animals instead of the one they depended on most for food? Again, no one knows.

The population of France during the time when the paintings were created was less than 50,000 people. And yet a fair number of them must have been artists, considering the large number of painted caves in the Dordogne area, elsewhere in France, and in northern Spain.

The guide tells us that all the painted caves in existence will never be discovered.

Ending the Tour

At the end of the tour, we emerge into the sunlight to the sound of running water. The guide asks us to consider the role water played in creating caves of hollowed-out rock beneath the earth.

After answering questions, the guide leads us into the museum. Here, each of the main panels in the caves is reproduced so we can study them more closely and also take pictures. As mentioned, photography is forbidden within the caves.

Exploring the Museum

The museum is very high-tech and stylish.

After snapping pictures of my favorite parts of the cave, I check out some of the interactive stations where people are invited to try “painting” on the screen using the colors and tools available to the cave artists. It’s all very cleverly done.

Once out, we make a quick pit stop at the gift shop and load up on Lascaux-themed merch.

I buy myself a Lascaux mouse pad, a fridge magnet to add to our growing collection, a stylized figurine of an auroch, and a book about Lascaux so we can read about what we’ve just seen.

Where to Stay in the Dordogne

You’ll find plenty of quaint and picturesque places to stay in the Dordogne region of France. Les Eyzies du Tabac, about a 20-minute drive from Montignac is a good choice.

I stayed in the Comtess de Dordogne. The property includes a chateaux, a pool, gorgeous grounds, and cosy one-bedroom cabins. The place is also a short walk into Les Eyzies du Tabac where you can tour the marvelous Prehistory Museum.

Also good is Domaine de Monrecour near Sarlat and Hotel Les Glycines near Montignac.

Tour Options for the Dordogne

Here are some more options for guided tours of the Dordogne area of France. Allocate at least a week for the area. I stayed for just three days on my most recent trip, and it was not long enough!

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Conclusion

A visit to Lascaux IV is a must if you’re traveling in the Dordogne area. It’s located close to the charming village of Montignac. Have you visited? Share your impressions and your tips for other artsy travelers in the comments.

Here are some more posts about wonderful things to see and do while traveling in France:

Discover the Best of the Musée d’Orsay in Paris

France, Museums & Galleries Artsy Traveler 2 Comments on Discover the Best of the Musée d’Orsay in Paris

Last updated on November 28th, 2025 at 05:43 am

What is the “best of the Musée d’Orsay”? That’s a matter of opinion for sure!

What I think are the best pieces, and what others think is pretty subjective!

But I can confidently say that every artsy traveler who visits the Musée d’Orsay in Paris will not be disappointed. 

A visit to the Musée d’Orsay is always a high point for me, no matter how many times I walk through the grand hall on the main floor and ride the escalators to view the outstanding collection of Impressionist and post-Impressionist art on the 5th floor.

An image showing the exterior of the Musée d'Orsay with the text “Musée d’Orsay, Must-See for the Artsy Traveler to Paris” and the website “artsytraveler.com” below.

The Musée d’Orsay is more than a must-see for the artsy traveler. It’s akin to a pilgrimage! It certainly ranks as one of my all-time-favorite European museums. In this post, I share some of what I consider the top  masterpieces.

Musée d’Orsay at a Glance

Location

The map below shows the location of the Musée d’Orsay (#1) in Paris. Also shown is the location of the Louvre for Renaissance, Baroque and 19th-Century art (#2), the Cluny for medieval art (#3), and the Pompidou for modern art (#4).

This map was created with Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

Tickets

Always reserve a time to visit the Musée d’Orsay to avoid standing in long lines. You can reserve directly from the museum’s website, or purchase tickets through resellers such as Tiquets.com or GetYourGuide.

Once you’ve entered the museum, consider whether to pick up an audio guide.

Two types of audio guides are available. You can hire one at the museum that will include commentary on the contents of both the permanent collection and the main temporary exhibition on during your visit. Alternatively, you can download an audio guide onto your mobile phone that includes commentary only on the main temporary exhibition.

Touring the Top Masterpieces at the Musée d’Orsay

The Musée d’Orsay’s collection is housed in a converted railway station. As such, part of its attraction is the massive atrium that stretches the length of the museum and is filled with light and sculptures. 

Long galleries run either side of the atrium and contain mostly academic paintings from the 19th century. Some of these rooms are skippable, unless you’re a fan of the overly florid, heroic style popular during the mid-19th century.

However, make sure you pop into the galleries to the left that include several masterpieces by Gustave Courbet and Jean-François Millet.

A photograph of the interior of the Musée d'Orsay, highlighting its grand arched ceiling, sculptures, and visitors walking through the gallery.

Most visitors head for the far end of the atrium and take the escalators to the fifth floor where they find one of the world’s largest collections of impressionist paintings, in addition to an impressive number of paintings by post-impressionists.

A series of rooms includes works by all the late-19th century biggies–Manet, Monet, Renoir, van Gogh, Morisot, and more.

The following highlights of what see is presented according to artist rather than the order in which you’ll encounter them while walking through the museum. All of the works mentioned are in the collection on the fifth floor.

Edouard Manet

The collection includes several iconic pieces by Edouard Manet. I zeroed in on two of them as representative of my favorite aspects of his work. I like the way he flattens the planes and uses a fairly neutral palette.

Even bright colors such as red and blue have gray undertones. Manet’s work always seems much more understated than the work of some of his contemporaries like Monet and especially Renoir.

Sur la Plage by Manet

Manet’s wife and brother sit on the beach—she is reading and he is staring out at the boats sailing along the English Channel. By making the sky take up a very small percentage of the painting, the focus is on the beach itself and the figures.

Manet’s sketchy, fluid brushstrokes makes the scene look like a snapshot in time, as though at any moment the figures will shift position.

A framed painting showing a man and woman sitting on the beach, facing the sea with sailboats in the distance. The woman wears a white bonnet with black ribbons.

Dejeuner sur l’herbe by Manet

If I had to choose the most famous painting in the Musée d’Orsay, I think it would have to be Manet’s Dejeuner sur l’herbe. It’s also one of my favorites.

I’m certainly not alone in loving this piece, which has been reproduced countless times and analyzed within an inch of its life.

Manet painted it in 1863 and included it in the Salon des Refusés along with other artists who were excluded from the Salon (the exhibition of all the accepted painters of the day).

Manet’s large painting shocked critics and the public because it represented such a marked departure from the academic tradition of only depicting mythological figures as nudes.

In this painting, there is a naked woman next to two men wearing modern dress. She looks brazenly out at the viewer as if to dare them to be shocked. The work was deemed to be obscene not only because of its subject matter but because of its loose brushstrokes, contempt for the rules of perspective, and violent contrasts.

Nowadays, we consider it a masterpiece, and it is certainly arresting.

A framed painting depicting a woman sitting nude beside two men in formal attire in a forest clearing, with a picnic spread and another woman in the background.

Paul Gauguin

Gauguin’s paintings always make me smile. He combines bright colors in sometimes startling ways and depicts his figures and his landscapes with a flattened perspective that gives them a pleasing immediacy, as though they could easily step out of the canvas.

Gauguin’s work is exhibited alongside several other painters of the Pont-Aven School.

On a recent trip to Europe, I spent a week in Pont-Aven, mostly because Gregg (husband and usual travel companion and also artist) is fascinated by the work that was done there by painters such as Gauguin, Bernard, and Sérusier, and wanted to be inspired by the same landscape that inspired them.

Paysage de Bretagne by Gauguin

This beautiful landscape of a typical scene in Brittany practically glows. The red and orange bushes on the mid-section contrast intensely with the blue sky and bright green foreground.

A framed landscape painting showcasing a rural scene with houses, autumn foliage, and two figures standing with a dog in a green field.

La Belle Angèle by Gauguin

Gauguin completed this portrait of Marie-Angélique Satre in 1889. He depicts the woman in traditional dress in a composition reminiscent of both Japanese prints and medieval stained-glass windows.

Perhaps as a nod to his Peruvian heritage (his mother was born in Peru), Gauguin includes a Peruvian-inspired piece of pottery next to his model.

A framed portrait of a woman in traditional Breton attire, set against a backdrop with flowers and a gold-colored figurine. The text “La Belle Angèle” is inscribed on the painting.

Émile Bernard

Bernard was another painter in the Pont-Aven School. Called Les Bretonnes aux ombrelles, this striking depiction of Breton women wearing traditional dress shows how Bernard, as a post-impressionist, ignored perspective, instead filling both the foreground and the background with his figures, bringing them into prominence.

I’m reminded of medieval paintings where the figures take precedence over perspective.

A framed artwork featuring women in traditional dress sitting on the ground with umbrellas, while others stand nearby. The background includes greenery and a large building.

Paul Sérusier

Another member of the Pont-Aven School, Sérusier has become one of my faves from this period. His work almost borders on abstraction and I love how he uses color.

Le champ de blé d’or et de sarrasin by Sérusier

This golden field takes up almost the entire painting, with just a bit at the top for the sky. I feel like I could walk straight into it and be instantly enveloped in a riot of flowers.

A vertical painting portraying a field of wildflowers with tall trees in the background. The colors are rich, with warm yellows, reds, and greens dominating the scene.

Tetrahedra by Sérusier

Painted around 1910, this piece showing floating objects in a formless space is part of a cycle of pictures by Sérusier that pushed the boundaries of Symbolism towards abstraction.

Sérusier believed that geometric forms were sacred and in this painting he depicts his thinking on the origins of life and the universe. The chromatic range of colors progresses towards the light, passing from the coldest to the warmest shades.

The painting is just a delight!

A framed abstract painting showing pyramid-like shapes floating in a textured background, transitioning from golden hues at the top to cool green and blue tones at the bottom.

Vincent van Gogh

It’s never difficult to spot a painting by van Gogh in the Musée d’Orsay since there’s always a clutch of people holding cameras aloft in front it.

There are several van Goghs—all fabulous—but I include here just two that I particularly love.

La Salle de danse à Arles by van Gogh

I was surprised to discover a painting by van Gogh that I’d never seen before. At first, I thought it was by Gauguin because the way the figures are depicted and the colors used remind me of his work.

But nope – it’s van Gogh. What an energetic, lively piece this is! Van Gogh really captured the almost frenzied crush of people, the women wearing Arlesian headdresses, their expressions blank.

An intricately framed painting depicting a busy social scene with numerous people, dressed in dark clothing and bonnets, gathered under glowing yellow lights in an indoor venue.

The Starry Night by van Gogh

Van Gogh painted a few versions of Arles on a starry night. This one is not quite as well known, but it’s still fabulous. Van Gogh worked by candlelight to complete a night view of Arles illuminated by gas lamps and the Great Bear constellation glittering in the sky.

A framed painting by Vincent van Gogh depicting a star-filled night sky reflected in the Rhône River, with figures walking on the shore and vibrant blue and yellow tones.

Henri Toulouse-Lautrec

Although Toulouse-Lautrec hailed from a wealthy family in Albi in the southwest of France, he became famous for his gritty depictions of real Parisians, many of whom were down on their luck, lonely, and marginalized. I’m particularly intrigued by two of his pieces depicting prostitutes.

Blonde prostitute, also known as Study for the Medical Inspection by Toulouse-Lautrec

The partially-clothed model is Gabrielle, a prostitute in a Parisian brothel. She’s getting ready to be inspected for venereal disease. Her expression could be interpreted as angry or stoic in the face of what must have been a very demeaning procedure.

A framed sketch by Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec of a woman in a pink dress and black stockings, standing with one leg bent, against a brown background.

Woman Pulling Up Her Stocking by Toulouse-Lautrec

Toulouse-Lautrec was a frequent visitor to the brothels and was able to sketch the prostitutes in all manner of poses. This drawing shows an everyday act—pulling on stockings—under the watchful eye of the brothel’s Madame.

A framed painting by Maximilien Luce showing fallen bodies on a cobblestone street, depicting a tragic moment with muted colors and a haunting atmosphere.

If you’re headed to southwest France, drop into Albi and tour the marvelous Musée Toulouse-Lautrec.

Maximilien Luce

This artist may not be as well known as many of the others in the collection, but this piece is a striking depiction of the violence that stalked Paris on and off throughout the 19th century.

This particular scene shows the aftermath of Bloody Week (May 21 to 28, 1871) when the Paris Commune was brutally suppressed and hundreds of people were shot down in the streets.

Painting of dead bodies in the streets by Maximilien Luce at the Musee d'Orsay in Paris

Paul Signac

This gorgeous portrait of Signac’s wife uses very sharp contrasts between complementary colors: yellow with purple, and orange-red with green. It’s a very stylized composition that shares an affinity with Art Nouveau posters.

A framed pointillist painting of a woman in a green dress holding a red parasol, with a yellow background and stylized flowers.

Berthe Morisot

I’ve long been a fan of Impressionist painter Berthe Morisot and am delighted to discover several paintings that I hadn’t seen before on display at the Musée d’Orsay. 

Les Deux Soeurs by Morisot

This painting depicts two dreamy-looking young girls  just emerging from adolescence. The blossoming hydrangea symbolizes their imminent emergence into womanhood.

Morisot is considered by many (myself included) to be one of the most impressionist of the Impressionists. She uses very loose brushstrokes and almost abstract backgrounds to convey a real sense of immediacy.

Her paintings look so fresh and alive. I like them so much more than works by painters such as Renoir that can look too over-worked and florid.

A framed painting by Berthe Morisot featuring a seated young woman in a flowing pink dress with another woman behind her, set against a backdrop of blooming hydrangeas.

Le Berceau by Morisot

This portrait of Morisot’s sister gazing at her newborn child is so tender and domestic. And the way Morisot conveys the sheerness of the fabric draped around the baby’s crib is incredible–again proving just how skilled (and under-appreciated) a painter she was.

A framed painting by Berthe Morisot showing a mother in a dark dress watching over her baby in a white bassinet draped with sheer fabric.

Paul Cézanne

Cézanne’s works are so redolent of the south of France that I can almost feel the heat coming off the canvases. His palette of warm greens and oranges perfectly captures the landscape around Aix-en-Provence.

Montagne Sainte-Victoire by Cézanne

Here’s one of many versions of Mont Sainte-Victoire near Aix-en-Provence. It’s such a bright, cheerful painting that perfectly captures the heat and space of one of France’s most beautiful landscapes.

A framed painting by Paul Cézanne of Mont Sainte-Victoire, featuring a scenic landscape of rolling hills, green foliage, and a prominent mountain in the background.

Rochers près des grottes au-dessus du Château-Noir by Cézanne

This piece perfectly captures the profusion of rocks and dense foliage in the countryside around Aix-en-Provence, where I’ve spent a fair bit of time over the years. No wonder painters who came after Cézanne credit him with being the father of Cubism.

A framed painting by Paul Cézanne depicting large rocks and lush green trees, with abstract brushstrokes of earthy tones.

Gustave Courbet

One of the most controversial paintings in the Musée d’Orsay is L’Origine du Monde by Gustave Courbet, a foremost proponent of realism. This piece was acquired by the museum in 1995, but wasn’t displayed publicly until quite recently.

When you see it, you’ll know why! It’s an amazing painting!

I have a soft spot for this painting because I read an excellent novel called L’Origine by Lilianne Milgrom and interviewed her on the Art In Fiction Podcast (my podcast featuring interviews with authors of arts-inspired novels!).

Lilianne’s novel tells the story of the painting from its commission by the Turkish-Egyptian diplomat Khalil-Bey to its acquisition by the Musée d’Orsay.

Claude Monet

One entire wall is taken up with a series of five paintings showing views of Rouen Cathedral that Monet painted at different times of day. Here are three of them.

Rouen Cathedral 1 by Monet
Rouen Cathedral 2 by Monet
Rouen Cathedral 3 by Monet

Mary Cassatt

Cassatt joined the Impressionist group after moving to Paris from America in the 1870s.

In this painting, she depicts the young girl, using very subtle white tones to stand out against the brightly colored background. While the clothing is almost sketched in, the face and hands are rendered with gorgeous precision.

Painting of a young girl by Mary Cassatt at the Musee d'Orsay in paris

Edgar Degas

Degas is most famous for his paintings of ballet dancers at the Paris Opera, and the Musée d’Orsay has several examples, including this one showing dancers practicing on stage.

The figures are in various attitudes–some dancing, some stretching, one even scratching her back. Degas uses subtle tones and ethereal brushwork to convey filmy tutus and barely hinted-at expressions.

Dancers at the opera by Degas at the Musee d'Orsay in Paris

Auguste Renoir

I’m not a huge fan of most of Renoir’s work. He’s an important painter but I find his figures a little too florid. The exception is, for me, this piece called Danse du Moulin de la Galette, arguably one of the most famous of Renoir’s paintings.

It depicts the famous guinguette–an open-air drinking establishment with food and dancing–that was located at the foot of a former windmill on the Butte de Montmartre in Paris.

The dance is attended by the working class in Paris, such as shop assistants, artists, workers, and just regular folks. The play of light and shadow bring the painting to life, making the viewer feel like they could step in and take a turn around the dance floor.

Dance at the Moulin de la Galette by August Renoir at the Musee d'Orsay in Paris

Gustave Caillebotte

I first saw and was entranced by this painting in the Musée d’Orsay several years ago. Its subject matter is so different from the other paintings in the collection. It’s not a portrait or a landscape, but instead a depiction of three working men (The Floor Scrapers) who are busily scraping a floor in a fine Haussmann-style apartment in Paris.

Critics at the time condemned the painting’s subject matter as vulgar. Few would agree with that assessment nowadays! There is something so compelling about the concentration of the men and the way in which Caillebotte uses such a limited palette to convey so many tones of browns and grays.

And check out how the light spills in from the window!

The Floor Scrapers by Gustave Caillebotte at the Musee d'Orsay in Paris

Love Among the Recipes at the Musée d’Orsay

After touring the Musée d’Orsay, I couldn’t resist taking a shot of Love Among the Recipes, my fourth novel (set in Paris), in front of the great clock.

The museum plays a role in the novel, with one of its most important scenes taking place on the 5th floor in front of a painting by Mary Cassatt!

Love Among the Recipes by Carol M. Cram in front of the clock at the Musees d'Orsay in Paris

Practical Information

The Musée d’Orsay can sell out so buy your tickets online at least a day or two before you plan to travel to Paris (possibly more during the busy summer months).

Tickets for Other Art Museums in Paris

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Where to Stay in Paris

Here are four options to consider for staying in Paris. All are on the Left Bank, which is my preferred location.

The Hotel de l’Université is a reasonably-priced (for Paris) hotel is on a quiet side street in the sixth arrondisement, a few blocks from the lively area around rue Bonaparte and Boulevard Saint-Germain.

In the fourteenth arrondisement, I recommend the Hôtel A La Villa des Artistes, which is stylish and in a great location close to some of Montparnasse’s most famous restaurants.

IIn the fifth arrondisement, I recommend the Hôtel Le Clos Médicis which has a great location about a block from the Luxembourg Gardens near the Boulevard Saint Michel.

If you’re looking for an apartment, this HUGE apartment on rue de Sevres on the Left Bank (#5 on the map at the beginning of this post) is pricey,but excellent value because of its size and central location. Compared to a typical hotel room in Paris, it’s almost a bargain (not that bargain is an appropriate word for any accommodations in the center of Paris).

Conclusion

If you’re an art lover, then I suggest making the Musée d’Orsay the first major art museum you visit in Paris, even more important then the Louvre.

The Musée d’Orsay’s collection is smaller and much more accessible than the vast collection in the Louvre and the crowds are considerably smaller. A visit there is well worth several hours of your time on even the shortest visit to Paris.

Have you visited the Musée D’Orsay? What are some of your favorites? Share in the comments below.

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Exterior of the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam

Best of Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum: Guaranteed Thrills for the Artsy Traveler

Museums & Galleries, Netherlands Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on Best of Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum: Guaranteed Thrills for the Artsy Traveler

Last updated on November 28th, 2025 at 05:43 am

Heading to Amsterdam? If you love art, then save time to visit the Rijksmuseum, one of the top museums in the world.

In this post, I share some of my favorite pieces at the Rijksmuseum, a must-visit gallery for Amsterdam-bound artsy travelers. Make sure you reserve well in advance (more on that later).

Refurbished and renovated, the new Rijksmuseum is a total delight. It’s even more amazing than the Van Gogh Museum, although I suppose it’s not fair to compare!

Rijksmuseum at a Glance

Pinterest graphic with the text Rijksmusum Must see for the artsy traveler to amsterdam

In this post, I share my favorite pieces at the Rijksmuseum, a must-visit for Amsterdam-bound artsy travelers. Make sure you reserve well in advance (more on that later).

Overview of the Rijksmuseum

On my first visit to Amsterdam in 1970, I remember the Dutch National Museum (the Rijksmuseum) as a gloomy, rather dingy place.

The famous Night Watch by Rembrandt was so dark as to be virtually invisible, and I don’t recall seeing any of the amazing objets d’art, from porcelain violins to full-size doll houses, that I saw on recent visits.

While most people associate the Rijksmuseum with its awesome collection of paintings by Dutch Old Masters (Rembrant, Vermeer, Frans Hals and the gang), you’ll find so much more to see during your visit. 

Yes, check out the most famous paintings (more below), but also spend time enjoying the hundreds of other objects on display from medieval art to porcelain to model ships to doll houses.

You could spend days exploring the best of the Rijksmuseum!

Location of the Rijksmuseum

The map below shows the location of the Rijksmuseum (#1) in Amsterdam’s Museumplein, easily reached from the Centrum via trams 2 or 12. Also shown is the location of the Van Gogh Museum (#2) next door, and the location of the charming apartment we stayed in on tiny Sint Nicholastraat in the lively Centrum area (#3). Called Here’s Lucy, it’s highly recommended if you’re looking for a private one-bedroom apartment and a much better deal than any hotel I’ve ever stayed at in Amsterdam.

The location, not far from Amsterdam Central Station and the Damrak, is pretty much perfect.

Map courtesy of Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

Medieval Art at the Rijksmuseum

The first room I enter features art from the Middle Ages—and wow! I have a soft spot for art from this period that spans from 1100 to about 1500, and the Rijksmuseum has a superb and varied collection. Here are a few of the knockout pieces.

Wood Sculptures

The figures in this wood sculpture were created in 1475 from a hunk of oak and formed part of a large altar. It depicts the adoration of the newborn child by the Virgin, Joseph and the angels. Check out the detail and the expressions on the faces.

Wood sculpture of jesus and apostles in the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

This amusing sculpture from around 1380 of a monk who can barely see over the edge of the pulpit is actually a medieval ink pot. The scribe dipped his pen or quill in the sleeves of the monk’s habit.

Medieval wood sculpture of monk in pulpit s in the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

And look at this gem of a sculpture that dates from 1520 – closer to Renaissance than medieval. It’s one of three related pieces. This one depicts the celebration of Mass with Christ. Check out the bread Christ holds in his hands and also the impassive look on the servant girl’s face.

Wood sculpture of Jesus with apostles at dinner n the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

One of the reasons I like medieval art so much is because it depicts the elaborate gowns worn by both men and women, but particularly women.

This wooden sculpture is one of 24 similar-sized sculptures that ringed the tomb of Isabella of Bourbon, the wife of Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy. She died in 1465. The figures represented mourning family members and ancestors and were known as “weepers”.

Medieval statue at the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

Renaissance Paintings

While most of the paintings in the medieval and Renaissance rooms at the Rijksmuseum were created in the low countries, this depiction of Mary Magdalene comes from Italy and is an example of the International Gothic style.

I’m quite taken by the elaborate coiffure and the beautiful way in which the red gown is rendered.

Gothic painting in the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

This landscape depicts an episode in the conquest of America and was painted in 1535 not long after the conquest.

The painting is the first to depict Spanish soldiers subduing the people who lived in the “new world.” Jan Jansz Mostaert, the painter, created a traditional European landscape and then added a few exotic elements—a monkey, a porcupine, and some parrots— to show that the landscape was not in fact European.

Painting of soldiers in the New World at the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

Dutch Ships at the Rijksmuseum

Several rooms are devoted to displaying models of Dutch ships. They are remarkable!

This model of a Dutch warship in the late 17th century was made at the same dockyards where real warships were built. It’s about one/twelfth life-size. The real ship would have had 74 guns.

I am particularly taken by the elaborate decoration and the sheer size of the stern area where presumably the captain would have his quarters. I doubt conditions were quite so luxurious for the regular sailors.

Model of a Dutch warship in the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam
Model ship in the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

Here’s another view of the many ship models in the Rijksmuseum.

Room of ship models in the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

Masterworks at the Rijksmuseum

Most visitors to the Rijksmuseum make a beeline for the “Gallery of Honour” which includes several paintings by Rembrandt van Rijn and Johannes Vermeer, probably the two most famous Dutch artists.

The Night Watch by Rembrandt

The Night Watch is displayed in a temperature-controlled structure so we can’t get very close. It’s an impressive artwork, for sure, and certainly much better to look at now than it was when I first saw it at the age of 14 when it was almost black.

Here’s my husband Gregg (the guy in black) checking it out.

The Night Watch at the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

And here’s a close-up sans viewers.

Night Watch at the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

Thanks to glare, it’s almost impossible to get a decent shot, but you get the idea.

Rembrandt’s control of light and shadow in the painting is remarkable. There’s so much life and movement in the painting. Everyone is doing something.

I like the drummer to the right and the little girl to the left of the guy with the red sash.

The Jewish Bride by Rembrandt

In this beautiful portrayal of a newly married couple, Rembrandt used thick, impasto paint and worked it with a palette knife to create a glittering and sculptural relief.

There is a bittersweet quality to this painting. The man looks to be quite a bit older than his bride. While richly dressed, she looks very uncertain about what the future might hold for her.

Rembrandt's Jewish Bride at the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

The Milkmaid by Vermeer

The small, intimate paintings by Vermeer are among the Rijksmuseum highlights. You’ll know that because you’ll see knots of people clustered around each Vermeer painting as they listen to tour guides or audio guides. 

I managed to sneak through and get this picture of The Milkmaid, which I’ve always had a soft spot for, perhaps because the subject is so humble and yet so exquisitely rendered.

She is totally intent upon her task, unaware she will be looked at by millions for centuries to come. This painting also shows how Vermeer was a master of light.

You really “get” how great Vermeer was when you compare his paintings to those of most of his contemporaries. While most are competently painted, they don’t glow like Vermeer’s paintings do. He didn’t complete many paintings in his life, but each one was a masterpiece.

The Threatened Swan by Jan Asselijn

This painting by Jan Asselijn is an oil on canvas from 1650. It’s reproduced on bags, mugs, tea towels and other products in the gift shop so obviously it strikes a chord with people.

The painting depicts a swan fiercely defending its nest against a dog. In later centuries, the scuffle was interpreted as a political allegory, with the white swan symbolizing the Dutch statesman Johann de Witt who was assassinated in 1672 while protecting the country from its enemies.

This meaning was attached to the painting when it became the first work to be accepted into the collection of the Nationale Kunstgalerij, the forerunner of the Rijksmuseum, in 1800. I’m guessing that the Dutch liked the image of their nation as a swan furiously defending itself.

Threatened Swan in the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

Still Lifes at the Rijksmuseum

I’ve developed a real fondness for still life paintings—of flowers, kitchen scenes, fruit, and the like.

I’m not sure why, but there’s something kind of comforting about super-realistic paintings of everyday things. And the Dutch are masters of the genre.

The Well-Stocked Kitchen by Joachim Beuckelaer

This piece by Joachim Beuckelaer painted in Antwerp in 1566, depicts Christ’s visit to Mary and Martha, although that’s hard to figure out because the action takes place in the background while in the foreground is a profusion of richly painted vegetables, fruit, meat, poultry, and pots and pans.

The contrast between the foreground and the background conceals the message of the painting: do not give in to earthly temptations.

Large still life at the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

Still Life of Flowers in a Glass Vase by Rachel Ruysch

I’m thrilled to discover that this stiff life was painted by a female artist I’d not heard of. Her name is Rachel Ruysch and I have discovered that she was big news in her time.

In fact, she was the most famous female artist of the period. Patrons loved her monumental, sumptuous flower still lifes like this one and paid big guilders to own one. Even after marrying and having ten children, Rachel Ruysch continued to not only paint, but also to sign her paintings with her own name. Now she’s an artist I want to know more about.

Rachel Rausch still life in the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

Later in the gift shop, I buy a stunningly illustrated book about still lifes from the Dutch Golden Age that includes quite a few of Ruysch’s paintings.

Unfortunately, the text is in Dutch, but I buy it anyway so I can enjoy looking at the paintings and drawings, most of which are by women artists. It appears that still lifes—and flower paintings in particular—were popular subjects for female painters of the period.

Still Life with Gilt Cup by Willem Claesz Heda

This painting includes an astounding array of grey tonalities. Heda’s palette is subtle—pewter, silver, damask, glass, mother-of-pearl, with a few yellow and ochre accents thrown in for good measure. He specialized in near monochromatic still lifes that were known as “tonal banquet pieces.”

Monochromatic still life in the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

Still Life with Cheese by Floris Claesz van Dijck

Van Dijck really brings the subjects in his painting to life. Check out the ridges in the slabs of cheese and how the pewter plate extending over the edge of the table seems to come right out of the painting.

Floris van Dijck was considered one of the pioneers of Dutch still-life painting.

Still life with cheese in the Riiksmuseum in Amsterdam

Flower Still Life with a Crown Imperios Fritillary in a Stone Niche by Jacob Woutersz Vosmaer

This impressively named painting is an exceptionally large example of a still life. There’s a tactile quality to the flowers that makes them look like they are moving.

And then there’s the wee mouse and the cracks in the wall—real life intruding on the luscious beauty of the flower arrangement.

Flower still life at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam

Other Notable Artists at the Rijksmuseum

Check out works by other Dutch masters including Frans Hals and Jan Steen. The Merry Drinker by Frans Hals is a perennial favorite.

Porcelain at the Rijksmuseum

The Rijksmuseum collection includes a lot of porcelain and china.

My eye is caught by this tin-glazed earthenware violin. It cannot be played and was made purely as a decorative object. The violin is considered to be an absolute masterpiece of Delft earthenware—and no wonder.

Porcelain violin at the Riiksmuseum in amsterdam

Doll Houses at the Rijksmuseum

One of the rooms in the Rijksmuseum is devoted to showcasing two extraordinary dollhouses. They’re both HUGE! And the detail in the rooms is truly astonishing. Here are just a few of the interiors.

Practical Information About the Rijksmuseum

The Rijksmuseum can sell out so buy your tickets online at least a week before you plan to travel to Amsterdam (possibly more during the busy summer months). Most visitors appear to get the audio guide which probably enhances the viewing experience. We did not get it, preferring to discuss the pieces as we look at them. Click one of the options below to purchase your ticket.

Here’s an option that includes a guided tour:

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Here are some options for tours of the Rijksmuseum offered through Tiqets.com

Where to Stay in Amsterdam

I visit Amsterdam frequently and so have stayed in a lot of different areas. My favorite area by far is the Centrum. You’ll pay more for proximity to the canals and the action, but it’s worth it!

Here are three options:

  • Mokum Suites overlooking the Herengracht canal and near the Rembrandtplein is fabulous. From my window on the 1st floor, I had a view over the canal.
  • Here’s Lucy is an apartment on a tiny side street very close to the Damrak–a perfect, and yet quiet, location in busy Amsterdam.
  • Holiday Inn Express – City Hall is a chain hotel but excellent value in a good location. Staff are friendly and you may even get a view of a canal!

Check the map for even more options:

Conclusion

The Rijksmuseum is well worth several hours of your time on even the shortest visit to Amsterdam.

I would venture to say that it’s even better than the neighboring Van Gogh Museum simply because it’s a lot bigger and has a lot more to look at.

But at the same time, the Rijksmuseum is not overwhelming. In my opinion, it’s a perfectly sized major museum to keep me entertained for a good two or three hours, with a wee break at some point to sample a coffee and a piece of cake in the airy cafeteria and of course to check out the gift shop.

Have you visited the Rijksmuseum? What are some of your favorites? Share in the comments below.

Other Posts About Great Art Museums

Carol Cram at Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam

Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam: Best Bets for the Artsy Traveler

Museums & Galleries, Netherlands Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam: Best Bets for the Artsy Traveler

Last updated on November 28th, 2025 at 05:43 am

I remember the first time I saw the Van Gogh Museum, almost 50 years ago. Compared to the gingerbread façade of its neighbor, the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh Museum is sleek and modern, and when I first saw it in 1974, it was fringed with massively tall sunflowers. I burst out laughing. How appropriate!

The Van Gogh Museum houses the world’s most extensive and lovingly presented collection of work by the Netherlands’s fave artist–Vincent van Gogh.

During his lifetime, van Gogh didn’t get much love from his home country, but that oversight has been more than made up for in recent decades. Vincent van Gogh, who barely sold a painting during his life, is big business now.

Pinerest graphic with the text van gogh museum must see for the artsy traveler to amsterdam over a self-portrait of van gogh by van gogh

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In this post, I share my favorite pieces at the Van Gogh Museum, a must-visit for Amsterdam-bound artsy travelers, although make sure you reserve well in advance (more on that later).

The map below shows the location of the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam’s Museumplein, easily reached from the Centrum via trams 2 or 12.

Map thanks to Wanderlog, a trip planner app on iOS and Android

Also shown is the location of the Rijksmuseum next door, and the location of the charming apartment I stayed in on tiny Sint Nicholastraat in the lively Centrum area. Called Here’s Lucy, it’s highly recommended if you’re looking for a private one-bedroom apartment and a much better deal than any hotel I’ve ever stayed at in Amsterdam. It’s situated not far from the Central Station and the Damrak is pretty much perfect.

Overview of the Van Gogh Museum

As the name suggests, the Van Gogh Museum is dedicated to exhibiting and celebrating the work of Vincent van Gogh, one of the world’s most beloved artists.

It opened in 1973, three years after my first visit to Amsterdam and a year before my second visit to Amsterdam at the age of 18. I remember being so excited to tour the museum in 1974 when I was already a firm van Gogh fan.

Message at the entrance to the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam

The museum is the most visited museum in the Netherlands, and one of the top most-visited museums in the world. And no wonder! The collection is organized across four floors and includes pieces from several of van Gogh’s contemporaries, including Monet, Gauguin, Pissarro and others.

The intention is to show van Gogh’s work in context and according to various themes, including self-portraits, early work, landscapes, and portraits.

Van Gogh provided hundreds of paintings and drawings over the course of just one decade, from 1880 to 1890. The collection at the Van Gogh Museum shows van Gogh as an artist intent on improving himself and his art while also being deeply engaged with the artistic developments of his day.

View of the Museum

A central atrium extends from the ground floor to the fourth floor and is dominated by a staircase and projections of details from van Gogh’s paintings that change regularly. The exhibition spaces run around three sides of the building.

Interior of the Van Gogh Museum with sunflowers projected

Self-Portraits of Van Gogh

The first room we entered featured a good collection of van Gogh’s self-portraits. I include two of my favorites. I like the contrast in how he handled the brushstrokes in these two works, and the intensity of his stare.

Self portrait of Van Gogh at the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam
Self-Portrait, 1887
Self portrait of Van Gogh at the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam
Self-Portrait with Grey Felt Hat

Van Gogh didn’t start painting seriously until he was 27 when he set to work to learn the rudiments of painting, mostly by studying the art of other artists. He was a great admirer of French 19th-century painters such as Jean-Francois Millet and Jules Breton who portrayed peasant life in the countryside.

Early Work

Most of van Gogh’s early work that he completed before he went to Paris and then finally to Provence use a very limited, even dreary palette. They have almost an Old Master feel to them.

Still Life with Open Bible

I particularly enjoyed a painting of his recently deceased father’s bible set next to van Gogh’s copy of La joie de vivre by Emile Zola–a ‘bible’ of modern life. The intention of the painting is to juxtapose the religious and traditional mores of his father with van Gogh’s more modern sensibilities. I was intrigued with how he rendered the open pages of the bible with rough brush strokes.

Bible and Zola painting by Van Gogh featured in The Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam

The Potato Eaters

One of van Gogh’s most famous works from his early period is The Potato Eaters. The darkness of the painting and the almost grotesque roughness of the figures exemplifies the harshness, even despair, of peasant life. Van Gogh wrote that a true peasant painting should smell of bacon, smoke, and steaming potatoes.

The Potato Eaters by Van Gogh featured in The Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam
The Potato Eaters

Van Gogh in Paris

The gallery devoted to works that van Gogh created while living in Paris also include several works by his contemporaries, including Monet and Degas.

Nude Bathing by Degas

This nude by Degas is executed in numerous shades of pastel crayon and is one of several nudes that Degas exhibited in Paris and which van Gogh saw and greatly admired.

Nude bathing by Degas at the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam

View Seen Through a Balcony by Gustave Caillebotte

Another work by one of van Gogh’s contemporaries is the painting of a Paris street seen through a wrought iron balcony by Gustave Caillebotte. I’ve seen several of Caillebotte’s paintings at the Musée d’Orsay in Paris and like his work.

View Seen Through a Balocny by Gustave Caillebotte

Café Table with Absinthe

And here’s a painting that van Gogh did while living in Paris. It depicts a glass of absinthe in a café. Already his palette is starting to lighten up with more pastel colors and looser brushstrokes.

Absinthe in a Paris Cafe by Vincent Van Gogh at the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam

Still Lifes – Red Cabbage and Garlic

I don’t associate van Gogh with still life paintings except, of course, for his flower paintings. This painting of red cabbages and onions is a revelation. I love the blue, red, and gold palette and the vibrancy of his brushstrokes. This still life is anything but still. Van Gogh was apparently intent on studying color contrasts in the painting–the complementary colors of yellow and blue reinforcing each other. He was well aware of color theory and how different color combinations work together to produce different effects and even emotions.

Cabbages and onions painting by Van Gogh at the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam

Portraits

Several of van Gogh’s most famous paintings are portraits of people he met and interacted with–regular people such as a bar maid, a postman, and his landlord. The Van Gogh Museum includes a few of his portraits, although not any of the super famous ones.

Woman in the Bar

This painting of a solitary woman in a Paris café is a great example of how van Gogh used regular people he encountered every day as his models. The look on her face is so relatable–staring into the middle distance, lost in her own thoughts. Is she annoyed? Pensive? Or just bored?

Woman in a bar painting by Van Gogh in the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam

Van Gogh in the South of France

Van Gogh left bustling Paris for the south of France in late winter, arriving just as the trees were beginning to blossom.

The White Orchard

Here is one of three paintings he did not long after arriving in Arles. I’m entranced by the movement of the trees and the joyous freedom of the brushstrokes. It’s as if van Gogh’s been released from prison and poised on the edge of a whole new adventure, which indeed he was.

The White Orchard painting by Van Gogh at the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam

The Harvest

I felt very verklempt when I saw this painting, the very first van Gogh I ever saw and the first painting that launched me into a lifetime of loving art. I saw it at Expo 67 in Montreal when I was 11. A pretty uneventful childhood spent in Vancouver had not prepared me for modern art. I was blown away, first by The Harvest by van Gogh and then in the same exhibition at Expo 67 Lavender Mist by Jackson Pollock. It’s kinda no wonder I’ve ended up spending my life with a painter!

The Harvest makes me feel happy every time I see it. I’m not sure why. Perhaps it’s the bands of color and texture or maybe the balancing of the complementary colors of gold and blue. It just feels totally right. I look at it and I feel glad to be in the world.

The Harvest by Vincent Van Gogh at the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam

The Bedroom

How many times have I seen this iconic piece in reproductions and on mugs and mousepads, puzzles and pens? And yet seeing it in “real life” is still a thrill. There’s something so endearing about a man who paints his humble little bedroom and manages to infuse it with such warmth and loneliness. And again, it’s his use of complementary yellows and blues that makes the painting so satisfying to look at.

Sunflowers

And another iconic favorite! Composed of just three shades of yellow, this Sunflowers (he painted several versions) glows like lemons in the sun. The sunflowers are in various stages of dying and yet the painting is beguilingly cheerful.

The Sunflowers by Vincent Van Gogh at the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam

The Yellow House

And here’s yet another study in blues and yellows! Gosh, he’s good. Van Gogh manages to capture heat shimmering against the walls of the houses in Arles. He was hoping to turn his yellow house into an artist colony but only Gauguin came, and only stayed two months. Poor Vincent led a rather solitary existence.

The Yellow House by Vincent Van Gogh at the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam

Japanese Influence

Van Gogh was a huge fan of Japanese art, as were many of his contemporaries, and several pieces were directly influenced by it.

Almond Blossoms

He painted this gorgeous, Japanese-print-inspired piece depicting almond blossoms against a blue sky to celebrate the birth of his nephew and namesake, Vincent–the son of his beloved brother, Theo. It’s almost abstract in its focus only on the blossoms and the sky with no other landscape elements. Van Gogh himself recognized the piece as one of his best–and he wasn’t wrong!

Almong Blossoms by Vincent Van Gogh at the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam

The Sower

And finally, here is The Sower, one of van Gogh’s smallest and yet most well-known paintings. It has so much movement and energy. I can sense the man purposefully planting his seeds, completely trusting that they will come up in the spring. In this painting, the sky is green instead of blue which casts an eerie glow over the scene, giving it an almost foreboding look, although the sower seems oblivious to anything beyond the sowing of his seeds.

The Sower by Vincent Van Gogh at the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam

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Practical Information

The Van Gogh Museum sells out many days in advance. Get your tickets online at least two weeks before you plan to travel to Amsterdam (possibly more during the busy summer months). Most visitors appear to get the audioguide which probably enhances the viewing experience. We did not, preferring to discuss the pieces as we looked at them. Every so often, you can discreetly eavesdrop on a guided tour. All of the ones I came across the morning we toured the museum were in English. Click one of the options below to purchase your ticket.

Tour Options

Conclusion

The Van Gogh Museum is well worth several hours of your time on even the shortest visit to Amsterdam. The only downside is that the world holds millions of van Gogh lovers and even with daily limits on visitors, a good chunk of them will be at the museum at the same time you are.

It does get tiring dodging the crowds, particularly if you enjoy taking photos of the pieces like I do and also read all the captions.

Most people are listening to audio guides and sometimes stand immobile for long periods in front of each painting. When several of them are congregated in front of a parituclarlty popular piece such as The Sunflowers, you’ll have to wait awhile to get your viewing turn.

But hey, it’s worth it. These are original paintings by Vincent Van Gogh! Artsy traveling doesn’t get much better. And when you’re done, you can tour no fewer than three gift shops (there may have been more) loaded to the gunnels with van Gogh schlock. On this trip I resisted, but I do own a very nice van Gogh pen that I purchased on a previous visit.

Have you visited the Van Gogh Museum? What are some of your favorites? Share in the comments below.

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