Cultural Experiences

Discover the traditions, daily rhythms, and cultural expressions that bring each destination to life—from food tours and markets to festivals, community practices, and meaningful encounters with local culture.

Carol Cram in Venice

How to Plan Meaningful Culture Travel

Cultural Experiences Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on How to Plan Meaningful Culture Travel

Culture travel is more than sightseeing. It’s about connecting with the stories, traditions, art, food, music, and creative expressions that make each destination unique.

Whether you’re wandering through a world-famous museum, chatting with a local artisan, attending a concert, or learning a traditional craft, meaningful culture travel turns an ordinary trip into an elevated cultural experience.

This post brings together my top travel tips for arts & culture travel, based on years of seeking out local art, meeting artisans, discovering small museums, attending performances, and following my curiosity.

Use these suggestions to help you plan immersive cultural travel experiences that feel richer and far more connected than a typical mass tourism experience.

Why Artsy Traveler?

I call my blog Artsy Traveler because I’ve always believed the arts are one of the most powerful ways to understand the history and culture of the people who live in the destinations I visit.

Engaging with visual art, music, literature, dance, cuisine, and performance opens doors to genuine human connection and authentic cultural experiences.

Call me idealistic; I don’t mind!

I believe that humans crave connection and that impactful cultural travel experiences help us understand the world and each other in heartfelt ways.

13 Top Tips for Meaningful Cultural Travel

Before you dive into specific tips, approach the concept of culture travel with the right mindset:

  • Slow down
  • Stay curious
  • Look for opportunities to engage rather than simply observe

Meaningful cultural experiences often happen in small, unexpected moments. You learn something new from an insightful museum guide; you find common interests with an artisan; you attend a neighborhood performance; or you prepare a local dish.

In a spirit of discovery, here are my top suggestions for making every trip richer, more connected, and deeply rooted in the culture of the place you’re exploring.

1. Pace Yourself in Major Museums

Major museums are cultural landmarks and essential stops for art and history lovers. These institutions house masterpieces and trace the histories that have shaped our global heritage and offer some of the best cultural tourism experiences anywhere.

Explore Sparingly But Deeply

To avoid burnout, choose two or three areas to explore. Don’t try to see everything in one visit.

A worthwhile museum experience is about savoring, not rushing.

Before you go to the museum, choose the areas you want to focus on. For example, if you know you love Impressionist art, go right to the fifth floor in the Musée d’Orsay and take your time strolling through the rooms. Don’t deplete your energy by spending time in areas containing art that doesn’t interest you as much.

Assume you’ll return!

Get Tickets in Advance

Make sure you purchase your tickets in advance, particularly for popular museums such as the Uffizi in Paris and the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam.

Most major museums sell timed-entry tickets. Choose a time when the museum has just opened or an hour or two before closing time to beat the crowds and create a more immersive cultural experience.

Carol Cram at Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam
In front of the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam

Guided Tours

Consider joining a tour provided by a museum guide or opt for the audio guide. Both enhance your arts and culture travel by offering context you may otherwise miss.

Most importantly, take breaks to recharge and conserve your energy. After checking out a floor or two of a major wing, pause to enjoy a coffee and a snack at the museum café. Many museums serve surprisingly good food.

Major Museums on Artsy Traveler

Here are some of the posts about major museums on Artsy Traveler:

Major Museum Tours

Sometimes, you may arrive at a destination having forgotten to purchase tickets for a major museum or popular cultural site in advance.

Don’t despair! You can often get access by joining a guided tour.

I’ve done this several times, most notably to see da Vinci’s Last Supper in Milan. The official website had no tickets for the day I was in Milan.

I went on to GetYourGuide and moments later, I was signed up for a tour with space that afternoon (and it was excellent, by the way).

Here are tours of three of the most frequently booked-up museums in Europe:

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2. Seek Out Specialty Museums

Specialty museums are the hidden gems of immersive cultural travel. They reveal the quirky and highly local aspects of a destination’s history, crafts, and creative output, and are ideal for travelers who want authentic cultural experiences beyond the big-name attractions.

Visiting specialty and smaller museums has the following benefits.

Smaller Crowds

Small museums will be much less crowded than their more famous cousins. Sometimes, you’ll have the place almost to yourself as I did when I visited the Basque Museum in Bayonne, France. You can take your time, soak up the displays to enjoy a deeper cultural travel experience.

You can also snap all the pictures you want without anyone getting in your way.

Helpful Attendants

In a small, specialty museum, you’re more likely to engage with the people who work there, such as the ticket takers, guards, tour guides, cafeteria staff, and gift shop attendants. These conversations often lead to wonderful insights into the local culture.

Attendant at the ochre museum in Rousillon

People who work at museums usually love what they do and often share stories you won’t find in guidebooks. The man in the photo above works at the Ochre Museum in Rousillon in the Luberon region of Provence.

Small museums make it easier to interact with knowledgeable, passionate staff.

Free or Almost Free

Small museums are particularly appealing if you’re on a budget. Many are free or reasonably-priced, while most major museums routinely charge $40 or more for admission. If a museum is free, consider leaving a donation. Small museums often operate on a shoestring, and the whole point of being a cultural traveler is to support culture!

Specialty Museums on Artsy Traveler

I have written a lot of posts about museums because, as mentioned earlier, I love them! In addition to the dedicated posts listed below, look for descriptions of museums I’ve visited in several of the posts accessible from the Destinations page.

3. Find Special Exhibitions

Before you travel, check whether special exhibitions are being featured at the museums you’re planning to visit. You don’t want to arrive at a destination only to find you’ve missed an exhibition of work by one of your favorite artists by a day or two.

Special exhibitions often feature focused, thematic insights about a particular topic. For example, I recently toured an exhibition of posters at the Musée d’Orsay in Paris that provided a fascinating look at the role that posters, some created by Toulouse-Lautrec and other famous artists of the time, played in advertising events in Belle Époque Paris.

Special exhibition of Paris posters at the Musée d’Orsay in Paris

4. Take a Craft Workshop

One of the best ways to get a taste for a particular craft is to take a workshop offered by a local artisan. These hands-on activities are core elements of immersive culture travel and allow you to connect with creative practices in a personal, memorable way.

Not only will you learn a new skill that may become a new hobby, you’ll also engage with other participants and the workshop leader.

You can find craft workshops on tour sites such as GetYourGuide and Viator, or via a Google search, such as “indigenous craft workshops Vancouver” or “jewelry-making workshops Spain” or even “craft workshops [destination].”

Taking a jewelry workshop in my hometown of Vancouver

Be flexible and open to new ideas. You never know what you might learn! Here are some pretty cool-looking craft workshops on GetYourGuide:

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5. Go to Local Concerts and Performances

Music and performance are living expressions of a country’s culture, and attending local concerts is one of the most rewarding parts of arts and culture travel.

Some of my best concert experiences have been unplanned, resulting from seeing a poster taped to a wall or a brochure at my hotel reception.

In Siena, I attended a concert featuring a singer and a pianist after picking up a brochure at my hotel.

While visiting Leipzig, I spent just $30 for a 3-hour recital by an incredible classical pianist.

In Rome, I noticed a poster for a Beethoven concert and ended up at a venue just outside the city where pretty much everyone in the audience was a local.

How to Find Concerts

Before you embark on your trip, search websites such as Classictic, or Google “concerts in [destination]” and check schedules. I’ve seen some amazing concerts at world-class venues such as the Concertgebouw in Amsterdam and the Elbphilharmonie in Hamburg because I searched online and purchased tickets before leaving home.

When you arrive at your destination hotel, check the reception area for brochures about tourist concerts. Yes, they can be touristy, but good music is good music. I’ve seen some marvelous performances at so-called “tourist” concerts such as the Great Opera Arias Concert by Opera Lirica di Roma.

Opera arias performance at Palazzo Poli in Rome
Opera Arias concert in Rome

And always watch out for posters advertising local concerts. Often these are held in churches and intimate venues where you’ll mingle with the locals.

Again, keep an open mind and stay flexible, and you may end up attending a concert you’ll remember fondly for years, such as the concert featuring medieval-style instruments I attended at a castle on the Rhine. At that concert, half the audience got up and danced. Of course, I joined them!

Here are some options for concerts specific to a particular destination (like waltzes in Vienna) on GetYourGuide:

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6. Seek Out Theater and Dance Performances

Theater and dance offer powerful windows into a destination’s artistic traditions and storytelling culture.

If possible, book ahead for major productions such as the memorable and sold-out performance of Hamlet starring David Tennant that I saw in Stratford-upon-Avon several years ago.

David Tennant as Richard II
David Tennant also played Richard II at Stratford

Last Minute Tickets

If you arrive in a city without pre-booked tickets, don’t worry! You can often get last-minute tickets on the day of the performance for plays and musicals that have been running for some time.

In London, go to the theater or check the TKTS booth in Leicester Square. In New York, check out the TKTS booth in Times Square.

Community and Local Theater

Look for posters advertising community plays or smaller productions which often provide memorably rich cultural travel experiences.

Where to Find Dance Performances

Dance performances also bring you closer to the local culture.

In Seville, check out a flamenco performance.

In Athens, don’t miss the folk-dance performance at the Dora Stratou Theatre on Philopappos Hill opposite the Acropolis.

GetYourGuide advertises tickets to popular local dance performances:

Powered by GetYourGuide

7. Attend an Arts Festival

Festivals—literary, art, film, theater or music—offer some of the most dynamic and memorable experiences in cultural tourism. They gather locals, artists, and visitors for days of creativity and celebration.

What are your interests?

Attending a festival dedicated to one of your interests is a great way to meet fellow enthusiasts.

When planning your itinerary, find out which festivals are on and buy your tickets in advance.

8. Go on an Artsy Retreat

If you’re a practitioner yourself (writer, artist, dancer, musician, etc.), then consider combining a trip with a week or so at an arts retreat. You can choose from two kinds: structured and unstructured.

Structured Retreats

At a structured retreat, you join a group to learn from a specialist who leads you in various activities. Such retreats often include non-art activities such as tours of local sites and special meals. I recently spent a few days at an artist retreat organized by Italiana Tours. Australian artist Rod Moore taught sketching workshops for part of each day and led the group on sketching outings.

Participants in a week-long drawing workshop run by Italiana Tours

Unstructured Retreats

In an unstructured retreat, you are provided with accommodation and sometimes meals and can work on your own projects. The retreat may offer optional workshops and mentoring programs. I spent a week at an unstructured retreat in Tuscany where I worked on a novel while my husband, who is a painter, completed an art project.

Both types provide beautiful, slow, immersive cultural experiences.

9. Attend Art Openings

Art openings are vibrant and social way to experience contemporary local culture. Search for “art openings [destination]” and simply show up. Unless an event is marked as “Private,” you’ll be welcomed, and may even get a free glass of wine.

You’ll meet artists, art lovers and locals and gain firsthand insight into a city’s creative community.

Art opening in Turin
Here’s an art opening I attended in Turin, Italy

10. Take a Cooking Class or Food Tour

Food is culture, and cooking classes and food tours are foundational to immersive cultural travel.

You’ll learn local culinary techniques, visit markets you might otherwise miss, and gain cultural insights from local chefs and guides. These experiences often become trip highlights.

Search for “cooking class [destination]” or “food tour [destination]” to find options. With a local guide, you’ll discover all sorts of tasty treats you may miss if you’re just dining in restaurants.

Carol making pasta in a cooking class in Rome

For posts about cooking classes, check out the Creative Activities hub on Artsy Traveler.

11. Meet Local Artisans

Skip the souvenir shops and seek out shops where local artists and artisans are at work. Meeting makers and learning about their techniques is one of the most genuine forms of authentic cultural travel.

These conversations are memorable, and your purchase directly supports the continuation of local cultural traditions. Here’s a link to my interview with Silvia Salvadori at her workshop in Arezzo.

Silvia Salvadori, an artist in Arezzo with author Carol Cram
Artist Silvia Salvadori and me at the Bottega d’Arte Toscana in Arrezo

12. Engage with Locals

Some of the best cultural travel recommendations come directly from locals. Ask hotel staff, servers, taxi drivers, museum attendants, and tour guides for tips on concerts, exhibitions and performances.

If there’s a language barrier, use Google Translate—most people appreciate the effort.

13. Take Specialty Walking Tours

Specialty walking tours are everywhere! Check sites such as Guru Walking Tours to find out what’s on in the place you’re visiting. These tours are led by local experts who love what they do.

Some specialty walking tours I’ve taken include an architecture walking tour in Bath, a “behind-the-scenes” tour in London’s Covent Garden (perfect for a theater lover like me), and a tour of the Jewish Ghetto in Rome.

Guide walking along a cobbled street in Athens
Following the guide in the backstreets of Athens on a Guru Walking Tour

Cultural Travel FAQs

What is meaningful culture travel?

Meaningful culture travel goes beyond sightseeing. It focuses on connecting with local traditions, arts, food, music, stories, and communities to better understand a destination’s identity, its history, and the people who live there.

How do I plan a cultural trip?

Plan your itinerary around museums, performances, local workshops, food tours, artisan studios, festivals, and specialty tours. Slow down and make space for authentic cultural encounters.

What are examples of cultural experiences when traveling?

Examples include visiting museums, attending concerts or plays, taking craft workshops, joining food tours, meeting local artisans, and participating in festivals.

Why are small museums good for cultural travel?

Small museums offer quieter spaces, personal interactions with staff, and insights into unique local history and creative traditions.

How can I have more authentic cultural experiences?

Talk to locals, attend community events, seek out neighborhood markets, and participate in workshops or tours led by residents.

Is food part of cultural travel?

Absolutely. Food reflects history, migration, tradition, and community. Cooking classes and food tours are some of the best cultural experiences you can have.

Conclusion

Meaningful arts and culture travel happens when you slow down, engage deeply, and follow your curiosity. These cultural tourism tips will help you create rich and memorable experiences wherever you go.

How about you? Have you experienced an artsy activity or tour you’d like to share with other like-minded travelers? Share your recommendations in the Comments below.

Explore all my posts related to Arts & Culture on Artsy Traveler:

Tunnel made of bands multicolored lights at Canyon Lights at Capilano Canyon in North Vancouver Canada

Capilano Canyon Lights: A Celebration of Vancouver’s Best Holiday Stroll

Canada, Cultural Experiences Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on Capilano Canyon Lights: A Celebration of Vancouver’s Best Holiday Stroll

Last updated on December 1st, 2025 at 07:18 pm

I visited Canyon Lights in North Vancouver’s Capilano Canyon in late November on its opening weekend for the holiday season.

Accompanied by my daughter, Julia, as I often am on my travels, I thoroughly enjoyed the opportunity to get outside and savor my home town’s festive vibes.

If you’re looking for a fun outing for families, friends and couples, then consider Canyon Lights. In this post, I provide a full account of my three-hour visit.

Quick Facts

What: Canyon Lights at Capilano Suspension Bridge Park: the bridge, treetops, canyon and rainforest lit with festive lights.

Where: 3735 Capilano Road, North Vancouver, BC.

When: Late November to early January; check the website for exact dates.

Tickets: Pre-purchase required; timed-entry visits.

What it costs: $75 per person. (Is it too steep? Read to the end for my verdict!)

Getting there: Free shuttle from downtown Vancouver, limited parking (cost was $9 for three hours).

Why visit: Unique blend of rainforest, canyon, suspension bridge and festive lights; one of Vancouver’s most iconic holiday experiences.

Tip: Arrive around dusk to beat the crowds. Dress warmly and wear sturdy shoes with good traction as the walkways can be slippery.

Who it’s for: Couples, families, creative souls looking for a photogenic winter outing, anyone who loves nature and light (and who doesn’t?).

Accessibility: The Suspension Bridge, Cliffwalk and Treetop Adventure are not wheelchair accessible. You need to be able to climb narrow stairways and walk across suspension bridges.

Arriving at the Park

After collecting your pre-booked tickets (make sure to book in advance), stop first at the display of photographs chronicling the growth of the park from its beginnings in 1889 to today. It’s a fascinating story.

Historical photographs of Capilano Canyon, a display at the canyon park

From the history display, set off along the totem-lined path toward the main area where you’ll find a large gift shop and places to get dinner food, waffles, and hot drinks. Red and white lights transform the trees lining the pathway into a glittering display.

Stop and take a selfie in the belly of a totem and say hello to the giant bear guarding the gift shop.

The atmosphere is festive and fun. Everyone is out to have a good time and get their money’s worth.

Before we set off to explore the three main attractions at Capilano Canyon: Cliffwalk, the Suspension Bridge and Treewalks Adventure, we decide to stop for hot chocolate while the area is relatively crowd-free.

I ask for one with Bailey’s and learn I can only have it if I agree to sit down to drink it. Walking around the park carrying a hot chocolate spiked with booze is not allowed. I decide to get a regular hot chocolate, thinking we’ll be walking around.

As it turns out, we settle at a table and drink our hot chocolates liberally frosted with marshmallows and whipped cream (of course) and have a chat. Julia points out that I could have had Bailey’s after all.

Oh well.

Cliffwalk

I advise going first to Cliffwalk, which opened in 2011. Dramatic lighting on the pathway leading to Cliffwalk provide photo ops every few meters. To the left is a stunning view of the suspension bridge as the light fades on a misty afternoon.

The colors of the bridge keep changing, from red and white to green and red to multi-color and back again. It’s endlessly photogenic.

Cliffwalk itself is incredible during the day and even more awe-inspiring during Canyon Lights. Anchored at only sixteen points set into the sheer cliff face, the narrow walkways, stairs and viewing platforms float thirty stories above the Capilano River Canyon.

Those with a fear of heights may find the Cliffwalk experience too frightening, although I read that the walkways can support forty-five tons, which is apparently equal to the weight of thirty-five adult orca whales.

I did not see even one orca and only a handful of regular-sized people on Cliffwalk, so I presume we were safe.

Mist hovers just above the brooding evergreen forest closing in all around us, the river roars through the canyon below, and everywhere, lights twinkle and washes of colors rotate through the spectrum to illuminate the cliff face and the rushing river far below.

It is jaw-droppingly gorgeous.

Suspension Bridge

As the oldest attraction in the park, the Capilano Suspension Bridge has thrilled visitors for almost 140 years. My granny and grandad crossed the bridge in the mid-1920s, my parents in the late 1940s, and me in the 1960s and beyond.

An outing to the Capilano Suspension Bridge was always atop the list of places to take visiting friends and family.

But in all the years I’ve been coming to Capilano Canyon, I’ve never seen the bridge illuminated during Canyon Lights. It is, predictably, spectacular!

Join the queue (it was very short for us) to get on the bridge and within seconds, the world beneath your feet begins to sway. It’s disconcerting, to say the least.

The 137-meter-long bridge swings freely above the canyon and is just bouncy enough to give your heart a jolt of adrenaline at every creak and judder.

Behind us, a group of young women shriek at every tiny movement as if they’re in imminent danger of immediate demise. They are not! Apparently, the bridge can easily hold the weight of a fully loaded 747 aircraft. Orca, however, are not mentioned.

The bridge soars seventy meters above the Capilano River. If the Statue of Liberty were somehow plunked down in the middle of the river (though who knows why she would be), the bridge would cross over her shoulder. Fun fact.

It’s almost impossible to stop on the bridge to take photos because of the steady stream of people following behind. I content myself with enjoying the swinging walk. When we get to the other side, the ground still sways slightly, an interesting sensation.

Treetops Adventure

Built in 2004, Treetops Adventure is the third major attraction at Capilano Suspension Bridge Park. Seven suspension bridges lace together viewing platforms attached to eight 250-year-old towering Douglas firs.

During the day, the walk immerses you in the moss-draped rainforest.

At night during Canyon Lights, the walk becomes a flight through Neverland. Lights are everywhere: on the trunks of the trees, the tops of the trees, slithering up the exposed roots of the trees.

Every bridge and platform is strung with lights, and far below is a dizzying array of white globes, colored orbs, a tunnel that looks like a colored Slinky, multi-hued hula hoops, and sparkles.

At its highest point, Treetops Adventure is 33 meters above the forest floor.

It’s impossible not to stop every few meters to take yet another photo. Who knows how many will turn out? I don’t care. I keep snapping and snapping, entranced by the shimmering, dazzling beauty.

Along the Forest Floor to Wildlight

After circumnavigating Treetops Adventure, descend to more walkways that snake along the forest floor past suspended spheres, a field of multicolored orbs, the aforementioned Slinky-style tunnel, and on to the newest attraction, Wildlight.

This compelling 3D wildlife projection may be missed by visitors who don’t venture down to the forest floor. It’s a must-see. Pause for awhile to watch projections of forest creatures including black bears, coyotes, grizzlies, owls, deer, and gamboling squirrels.

Tucked away beyond Wildlight is a dense cluster of lights that seem to float among the trees. I could have stared for hours into the packed twinkle-fest, the colors everchanging. Talk about mesmerizing.

Ending Your Visit

After thoroughly exploring every part of the area, climb back up to the Suspension Bridge and sway on back to the other side.

End your visit with a quick look through the large gift shop followed by a meal at the Cliff House Restaurant or the Loggers’ Grill.

We shared a Capilano Crunch waffle. Delicious.

Is It Worth It?

So, now that I’ve explored Canyon Lights, would I say it’s worth the $75 entrance fee?

I’m happy to give a resounding “yes” and an enthusiastic thumbs up. If you only do one holiday outing this year, consider Capilano Lights.

Canyon Lights FAQs

Do I need to book ahead?

Yes. Purchase tickets for Canyon Lights online in advance for a timed entry. Weekends and the week before Christmas sell out quickly. If you are an Annual Passholder, reserve your time online well before visiting the park; only a limited number of Annual Pass reservations are available per hour.

What’s the best time of day to visit Canyon Lights?

Arrive about 30–45 minutes before sunset. You’ll catch the last light on the canyon, then watch the bridge and treetops slowly glow to life, a beautiful transition for photos. Full darkness is magical too, but also the most crowded.

How long should I plan for the visit?

We spent 3 hours to see Cliffwalk, the Suspension Bridge and Treetops Adventure, and also to enjoy two snacks and a take a stroll through the gift shop. Allow at least 2 hours if you’re not planning to eat. Just walking around Treetops Adventure and pausing frequently to take pictures takes quite a while, especially if it’s crowded.

Is Canyon Lights suitable for kids and strollers?

Yes, but strollers are not permitted on the attractions. The website recommends that babies be carried below railing level or in a purpose-designed child carrier.

Should I take the shuttle or drive?

If you’re staying in downtown Vancouver, take the free Capilano shuttle that drops you right at the entrance. The trip from downtown to Capilano Suspension Bridge Park takes about 25 minutes. Here’s a link to the free shuttle schedule. Paid parking is available on-site but can fill up early on weekends and evenings. If you’re driving, arrive early for the best chance at a spot. I arrived at 4 pm and had no trouble getting a spot, and spots were available when I returned to my car at 7 pm. Mind you, I visited on Canyon Lights’ opening weekend. Later in December, parking will be at a premium.

What should I wear?

Dress warmly. The rainforest is generally colder and damper than downtown. Wear layers, waterproof shoes with good grip, and gloves for holding metal railings. The decking can be slick after rain.

Are food and drinks available inside the park?

Yes. Capilano has a café and seasonal snacks, including hot chocolate (with marshmallows!) and light meals. If you’re visiting at peak times, expect line-ups for warm drinks.

What happens if it rains?

Canyon Lights continues rain or shine. As a west coast girl born and bred, I find the rainforest even more enchanting in the rain (as long as the rain isn’t too torrential). The lights glitter and everything looks misty and mysterious. If it’s raining, wear waterproof clothing and/or bring an umbrella. The suspension bridge is only closed in severe weather and high winds.

Are dogs allowed?

According to the Capilano Canyon Suspension Bridge Park website, well-behaved and leashed dogs are welcome, and of course certified service animals are permitted.

Is Canyon Lights worth it if I visited Capilano Canyon before?

Absolutely. Canyon Lights transforms the entire park—the Suspension Bridge, Treetops Adventure, and Cliffwalk—into a glittering, immersive light installation. Even if you’ve visited in summer, the winter version feels like a completely different experience. I’ve visited many times during the day over the years, and my first experience at Canyon Lights was fabulous.

Is Canyon Lights wheelchair accessible?

The Suspension Bridge, Treetops Adventure, and Cliffwalk are not wheelchair accessible. Guests using wheelchairs or mobility aids receive complimentary admission to enjoy accessible areas. Check the website for details.

Where to Stay in Vancouver

If you’re visiting Vancouver over the holiday season, here are some hotels to consider in downtown Vancouver. Remember you can catch the free shuttle from downtown directly to Capilano Suspension Bridge Park to see Canyon Lights.

OPUS Vancouver

OPUS Vancouver has bright, bold, playful rooms with strong design personality, perfect for travelers who love a splash of color and creative energy.

Sutton Place Hotel

Located on Burrard Street and around the corner from plenty of good shops and restaurants on Robson Street, the Sutton Place Hotel is one of the more reasonable options in Vancouver with comfy 4-star rooms.

Vancouver Tours

GetYourGuide offers a winter tour of Vancouver that includes Canyon Lights. This tour is a good bet if you’re visiting and want to see several highlights.

Powered by GetYourGuide

And here are more options for touring Vancouver. Why not splurge and take a seaplane flight over the city? On a clear day, the views are amazing.

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Conclusion

There’s something deeply creative about the way Canyon Lights transforms Capilano Canyon each winter. More than a holiday attraction, it’s an immersive art installation that’s been masterfully woven into the rainforest itself. Lights are brushstrokes, towering evergreens and fern-covered forest floors are the canvas, and every viewpoint a new composition.

Whether you’re drawn by the shimmer of the Suspension Bridge, the jewel-toned glow of the treetops, or the quiet magic of standing in a forest illuminated from within, Canyon Lights is a reminder of how art and nature meet in the most unexpected places.

Looking for artsy things to do in Vancouver? Check out my posts on some recommended things to do in my home town.

Documentary filmmaker Brady Skye is talking with a small Maya boy in front of a grass hut in the Yucatan area of Mexico

Review of Beyond the Ruins: A Documentary

Cultural Experiences Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on Review of Beyond the Ruins: A Documentary

Last updated on December 1st, 2025 at 07:18 pm

If you’re planning a trip to the Yucatán Peninsula in Mexico, I highly recommend you include a tour of at least one of the Maya ancient sites. The two largest and most easily accessible are Coba and Chichén Itzá.

But before you go, check out Beyond the Ruins, a stunning 2024 documentary that will change how you think about the Maya people and provide valuable insights into their way of life.

This post features a review of Beyond the Ruins, an award-winning feature documentary by Brady Skye that chronicles his journey to deepen understanding of the Maya and their culture.

Introduction

Many people—documentary-maker Brady Skye included, until he learned otherwise—mistakenly think the Maya culture belongs firmly in the past.

On a trip to the impressive ruins at Coba in the Yucatán in 2018, Brady’s fascination with the ancient Maya ruins led him to wonder about the people who built them. His interaction with a local Maya guide inspired him to return to the area to film his documentary in 2021.

Through his interactions with two Maya families, Brady discovered that the Maya culture was still alive and vibrant, and with a great deal to teach the modern world.

Over six million people belong to the Maya ethnic group. Many of these people still live and thrive on the Yucatán Peninsula.

Meeting Two Maya Families

The documentary chronicles Brady’s interactions with two Maya families. They welcome him into their homes and share with him their way of life and their beliefs.

Brady soon discovers that the modern Maya’s traditions and culture are firmly woven into the fabric of their daily lives, influencing everything from their farming practices to their spiritual beliefs.

By living in harmony with the natural world, the families Brady meets show him what it means to live a meaningful life.

One of the people he interviews is an expert on the local spider monkeys and leads Brady through the forest to view the monkeys in their natural habitat.

Spider monkey sitting on a tree branch in the jungle in the Yucatan region of Mexico; a screenshot from the documentary film Beyond the Ruins.

A woman called Rosa shows Brady the gorgeous embroidery she does, some of which she sells to visitors.

Maya woman named Rosa shows off her beautiful embroidery that she sells.

The documentary celebrates the many ways in which the two families interact with their environment—from their close relationship with nature and animals to the ways in which they live and work.

The Value of Community

Community and family are paramount in the lives of the people Brady meets.

In one scene, Brady puts up a hammock and joins members of the family in an afternoon siesta—all swinging together in one room.

It’s a colorful and peaceful scene that underscores the value the Maya place on family and community.

People swinging in colorful hammocks in the home of Maya people in the Yucatan peninsula in Mexico. A screenshot from the documentary film Beyond the Ruins.

Philosophy of Living

Jesus Canul, the Maya guide Brady meets at the beginning of his journey, declares that he is richer than some people who have a lot of money.

He has all he needs: family, community, and the natural world.

Documentary filmmaker Brady Skye to the left and Maya guide Rene Canul to the right with the jungle behind them in the Yucatan Peninsula in Meixco--a still from the documentary Beyound the Ruins.

One simple phrase sums up the philosophy of the Maya:

I am you; you are me.

The Maya believe in the interconnectedness of all humans and animals. By sharing our lives and helping one another, we can all live a fulfilling life.

This is a valuable lesson that so many people in our frequently disconnected world would benefit from embracing.

As Brady says in the documentary, the Maya offer a powerful alternative vision to what it means to live a life of meaning and connection. They understand that true happiness comes from the nurturing of human bonds and not in dependence on artificial machines.

The documentary demonstrates the value of fostering connections with Indigenous wisdom, thereby recognizing the universal truth that we are all interconnected.

Recognition for Beyond the Ruins

Beyond the Ruins is the recipient of numerous awards, including:

  • Best Documentary Feature, 19th Orlando International Film Festival
  • Silver Anthem Award Recipient, International Academy of Arts & Sciences
  • Best Documentary Feature, TRAVEL FILM International Film Festival
  • Best Cultural Documentary, 14th Travel Beyond Film Festival
  • Best Documentary Feature, 2024 Follywood Film Festival
  • “One Planet, One World” Special Award Recipient from the ART&TUR International Film Festival
  • Official Selection at 36th Girona Film Festival, 29th Red Nation International Film Festival, and the 25th Santa Fe Film Festival.

Conclusion

Beyond the Ruins is both visually stunning and philosophically profound. Viewers will be inspired by Brady’s depictions of the two families and their interdependence upon the natural world.

This documentary fascinated me. I visited the Yucatán Peninsula several years ago and remember being fascinated by the Maya culture and people after touring Coba accompanied by a local guide who provided fascinating commentary about the ruins and the Maya people. I wish I’d had more time to explore the ruins and delve deeper.

Fortunately, Brady Skye does just that in his work.

I highly recommend checking out Beyond the Ruins, whether before or after you travel to the Yucatán, , or even if you never plan to visit the Yucatán!

Artist in his studio

Experiential Travel: How to Connect With Local Artists

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Last updated on November 28th, 2025 at 04:40 pm

Connecting with local artists when you travel provides exciting new perspectives on a destination, sparks fascinating conversations, and gives you an opportunity to support local small businesses.

It’s a win-win for sure!

In this post, I delve deep into ways in which you can meaningfully connect with local artists when you travel. This process is often called “experiential travel”.

What is Experiential Travel?

The term “experiential travel” is also sometimes referred to as “immersion travel”. Experiential travel helps people connect directly with the culture and people of the places they visit. Instead of merely ticking off sites, the experiential traveler seeks out meaningful ways to connect with locals by engaging in authentic cultural experiences.

And what better way to connect with locals than to seek out artists?

Read on for my suggestions for how to connect with local artists and, by so doing, immeasurably enrich your travel experience.

Connect Directly with Local Artists

If you’re an art lover, why not set aside some time during your trip to connect directly with one or two artists? Perhaps you already know and admire the work of an artist who lives in an area you’re traveling to. Reach out and connect! Chances are, you’ll get a positive response, and what do you have to lose?

If you don’t already know a local artist, do a Google search to find artists who create the kind of art you like and who may be open to meeting with you and telling you about their work. Not all artists will be interested, but some will!

Connecting with Artists Through Social Media

Another source to find artists is travel and art groups on social media. My husband, Gregg Simpson, who is a painter, has made many connections with local artists through Facebook. Often during our travels, we visit artists and enjoy the opportunity to “talk art”.

If possible, connect with artists with whom you share an interest either in the style of artwork they do or in some other aspect of their background, such as places they’ve traveled, acquaintances or friends you have in common, or organizations you’re both connected with. For example, you may find an artist who has exhibited their work in your home town or is a member of an organization to which you also belong.

Here’s Gregg with Rik Lina, a Dutch artist who lives in Amsterdam and who has become Gregg’s collaborator and friend.

Visiting an Artist

Once an artist has agreed to meet with you and talk about their work, keep your visit quite short. Artists want to be creating art, and while many enjoy talking about their work, they also usually want to get back to work. There also may be the expectation that you’re interested in purchasing a piece of artwork, so keep that in mind.

Purchasing Artwork from a Local Artist

To be honest, this is a bit tricky, which I know from experience, being married to an artist! While many artists love talking about their work, they also need to make a living just like the rest of us. If possible, purchase something during your visit to an artist’s studio–whether on a solo visit or with a group. If a piece of their original art is out of your budget, buy a greeting card or a print as a thank-you for their time. Also, leave your email so you can join their mailing list.

Showing respect for the artist and their time is the right thing to do.

My Meeting with Silvia Salvadori in Arezzo, Italy

One of the most meaningful connections I had with a local artist was when I visited Silvia Salvadori in the charming Tuscan town of Arezzo. Silvia runs the Bottega d’Arte Toscana where she works and sells her art. Located on a tiny side street steps from the Piazza Grande in Arezzo, her studio is a must-visit for the artsy traveler.

Silvia Salvadori, an artist in Arezzo with author Carol Cram
Silvia Salvadori and me at the Bottega d’Arte Toscana in Arrezo

Silvia creates stunning works inspired by medieval art and using medieval techniques. Her mission is to preserve these typically Tuscan techniques from the Middle Ages and pass them on to future generations. Read more about my visit with Silvia, and check out the small painting I purchased from her.

Attend Art Openings to Connect with Local Artists

Art openings are always free to whoever is walking by and wants to drop in. Don’t be shy! If you’re wandering around an area and spy an art opening, go check it out. Not only will you likely get a free glass of wine, but you’ll also be able to chat with the artist and connect with other locals. You’ll get to admire the artwork and maybe even find the perfect piece to take home.

The vast majority of people attending an art opening will be locals rather than tourists. Over the years, Gregg and I have met so many interesting people at art openings.

Art gallery opening showing people mingling and looking at art
At the opening of Gregg Simpson’s recent exhibition in Madrid

I fondly remember the time the Gregg and I were walking past a gallery in Ravenna that was hosting an art opening. We paused to peer through the window, and moments later, the artist himself bounded out to the sidewalk and invited us in.

Despite our knowing very little Italian, we managed to have several interesting conversations both with the artist and the other attendees. Everyone was so friendly to the Canadese, thanks to our shared interest in art.

A Note About Language

Don’t let the language barrier stop you from dropping into an art opening. Chances are a few people will speak English, and for those who don’t, use a handy translator device or the Google Translate app on your phone.

Go to Multiple Art Openings on “Opening” Nights

In some cities, several galleries in a neighborhood will open late one night a week (often a Thursday or Friday) so that art lovers can hop from opening to opening for a major art fix. Check local listings to find out when galleries open late and when vernissages (French for “openings”) are being held.

Fun Fact: The term vernissage means varnishing and refers to the practice of varnishing a painting just before exhibiting it. Openings are still called vernissages in Paris and many other places in Europe.

Take a Workshop or Class to Connect with Local Artists

Feel like brushing up on your glass-making skills or throwing a pot or two or maybe doing some flower painting? Whatever your interests, you’ll likely find a workshop or class that intrigues you in some of the destinations you’re visiting.

While most of your fellow participants will likely be visitors like you, the teacher will be a local. In addition to teaching you a new skill, they’ll probably tell you about the local art scene, give recommendations about local museums and galleries to visit, and share lots of other information not found in the guidebooks.

If time is limited, choose a half-day or full-day class.

Read my interview with Tanvi Pathare about the flower painting classes she taught at the stunning Villa Lena in Tuscany.

Finding Workshops and Classes

To find local workshops and classes, check with the local arts councils or tourism offices, or do an online search. Some tour companies such as GetYourGuide and Tiqets.com may also offer art workshops. Here are a few options.

Powered by GetYourGuide

Attend an Artist Residency

You can also sign up for a multi-day course and really immerse yourself in being creative. Or, if you’re an artist already, apply for an artist residency.

Imagine spending a week or two or even longer in a beautiful location with like-minded people all engaged in creative work! To me, it sounds like heaven, which is why I’m always on the lookout for artist residencies that both Gregg and I can enjoy—he to paint and me to write.

You’ll find several artist residencies in Europe, some in beautiful castles and châteaux. Some allow anyone to apply; others have a competitive application process and offer funding support for successful applicants. Here are links to a few options in Europe:

  • Château d’Orquevaux in Orquevaux, France, provides several options for artists and writers in residence. Orquevaux is located in the Haute-Marne department in the Grand Est region in Northeastern France.
  • The Bellagio Center Residency Program in Bellagio, Italy, brings together academics, artists, and practitioners from around the world and provides them with a space to unlock their creativity and advance groundbreaking work.
  • The art retreats at Casale di Clio are wonderful. I recently spent a week there working on my new novel while Gregg made full use of the “Art Barn” studio.

Artist studio at the Châteaux d’Orquevaux in Orquevaux, France

My Experience at an Artist Residency

A few years ago, Gregg and I spent two months at Rouges en Vert, an artist residency in the little town of Soligny La Trappe deep in the Normandy countryside. The place was still under construction and a bit rough, and we were the only occupants, but we had a productive time! And at the end of the residency, the newly completed art gallery attached to the studios hosted an exhibition of the work Gregg had completed.

The very reasonable cost of the residency included accommodation and the use of a studio for Gregg and an office for me.

If you’re looking for an in-depth artist experience, I highly recommend finding an artist residency in the area you want to visit. It’s experiential travel at its most intense!

Check Out Studio Tours

Many tourist offices in areas where the arts are celebrated maintain lists of artist studios you can visit. Sometimes, you’ll be lucky to arrive in a place at a time when a tour of several studios has been organized.

Where I live on Bowen Island near Vancouver in British Columbia, Canada, the annual Bowen Art Tour takes place in May (May 24-25, 2025). People come from all over the region to visit artists in their studios. We are not the only small community to organize studio tours. With the rise of interest in experiential travel, more and more visitors are interested in organized studio art tours which easily connect them with local artists –and local communities are responding.

Check the tourism websites in the areas you’re visiting to find out the dates of organized studio tours, exhibitions and other special art events. A quick search for “art studios in [location]” is likely to yield useful results.

And be on the lookout for special art events. We’ve frequently come across exhibitions set up in parks and other public areas and involving several artists. Strolling from booth to booth to connect with local artists is a very artsy traveler way to spend an afternoon!

Book a Multi-day Art Tour

An easy way to connect with local artists is to take an art tour led by professional artists and art historians. Depending on your interests, you can find programs suitable for both practicing artists and art lovers.

A good bet is taking a tour offered by Walk the Arts. They offer a range of tours that are suitable for “artists at all levels, art lovers, lifelong learners, and independent travelers seeking unique cultural experiences”. Their mission is to promote the arts and culture through art courses that emphasize content, creativity, and experiential learning.

Sign Up for an Art Walking Tour

A great source for walking tours hosted by locals is Airbnb Experiences. Some of the tours are arts-related, such as this tour by an artist in Hoxton, London, who takes visitors on a walk along art-lined streets to visit local galleries, independent shops, and other hidden gems.

Also check out GuruWalk. Quite a few of their tours are related to art, such as the Afternoon tour of old Parisian galleries in central Paris that is led by a “proactive pensioner” involved in many cultural and social projects in Paris.

You can even find tours that will take you to exhibition openings. When Gregg had an exhibition in Venice a few years ago, a guide showed up with a small group to see the show. It was great to chat with them and see their reaction to the exhibition.

Conclusion

Experiential travel with a focus on the arts has so many benefits. You get to step well off the beaten track to meet local artists and learn about their work. Depending on the experience you choose, you may even get your hands dirty creating your own artwork.

There are lots of possibilities for arts-inspired experiential travel.

When you’re planning your next trip, find opportunities to enrich your experience by connecting with local artists:

  • Check out the art opening you come across on your way to dinner
  • Learn new skills in an art workshop
  • Sign up for a walking tour of local galleries
  • Make a detour to check out a local art event
  • Get a list of artist studios from the local tourism office and make a day of touring them.

Have you connected with local artists during your travels? Share your stories and recommendations in the Comments below.

Here are links to posts about some of my favorite small art museums in Europe:

A modern brick building housing the Museum of English Rural Life, surrounded by greenery and a clear blue sky.

Enjoying the Museum of English Rural Life in Reading, England

Cultural Experiences, England Artsy Traveler 2 Comments on Enjoying the Museum of English Rural Life in Reading, England

Last updated on December 1st, 2025 at 07:18 pm

This must-see museum of thoughtfully curated exhibits showcases the history of life in rural England.

Eight galleries and an impressive open storage area present artifacts and commentary related to the traditions and challenges related to food production in the English countryside.

I spent a wonderful afternoon at this museum in Reading with associate director Isabel Hughes, who graciously answered my many questions about the museum and then took me on a guided tour.

Collage with two images: the top shows a scenic canal lined with red brick buildings, blooming flower baskets, and a bright blue sky. The bottom features the Museum of English Rural Life sign at the University of Reading, with a red-brick building and leafy surroundings in the background. Overlayed text reads 'Museum of English Rural Life in Reading, England' and 'artsytraveler.com' in white on a magenta banner.

This place is a real Artsy Traveler find! And fair warning: this is a LONG post because there is just so much to write about.

Some Background

I lived in Reading for three years a few decades ago. During that time, I attended the University of Reading where I earned my BA in English Language and Literature.

I hadn’t returned to Reading since I graduated, so on a recent trip to England from my home near Vancouver, BC, I decided to make Reading my first stop after flying to Heathrow from Vancouver.

I wasn’t sure what I planned to do during my one afternoon in Reading. I googled museums and discovered the Museum of English Rural Life (MERL) run by my alma mater, the University of Reading.

I had never heard of MERL, although Isabel told me the museum was established in 1951 and did indeed exist when I attended the university in the 1970s.

In 2004, the museum moved to its spacious new digs in the former St. Andrew’s Hall, one of the student residences that was around during my time at the university.

Since its expansion, MERL has established itself as one of the United Kingdom’s premier destinations at which to learn about English rural life.

Why I Wanted to Visit the Museum of English Rural Life

I decided to visit MERL for two reasons.

First, it’s a niche museum and as such is a perfect candidate for featuring on Artsy Traveler.

Although I often write about blockbuster museums such as the Rijksmuseum, National Gallery of London, and the Uffizi, my heart beats particularly fast when I discover an off-the-beaten-track museum that my readers may not know about, and that fits with my interests.

The second reason I wanted to visit is because one of my novels titled Hidden Voices is partially set in Devon in the 1880s.

Eliza, my main character, must move with her family from a bucolic rural life in Devon to the “dark, satanic mills” of northern England where most of the novel takes place. In the scenes set in Devon, I wanted to sprinkle in a few more details about rural life that I hoped to find at MERL.

And I wasn’t disappointed! This extensive museum dedicated to farming practices and rural life is a hidden gem—and admission is free or by donation.

Arrival at the Museum of English Rural Life

A few hours prior to visiting MERL, I land at Heathrow after a smooth eight-hour flight from Vancouver. Twenty minutes after deplaning, I’m standing, phone in hand, searching for my Uber.

Most of that time has been taken up with long, long walks through long, long corridors, many rides up and down long escalators and a two-minute wait to go through the electronic customs kiosk.

Since my flight has arrived an hour early, I take the Uber to my hotel before heading to the museum. I’m staying at the Hotel Malmaison (#1 on the map) in downtown Reading, which I highly recommend. After freshening up, I decide to walk the 22 minutes from the hotel to MERL (#2). Here’s a map of Reading:

Along the way, I expect to take a few jaunts down memory lane, but alas, it isn’t to be. Nothing looks the same as I remember from the 1970s—not even close. The Reading skyline bristles with new buildings designed by architects who likely hadn’t been born when I was studying at the university.

When I lived in Reading, there was hardly anywhere to get coffee, much less enjoy a meal. We existed on copious amounts of strong tea; coffee bars were unheard of. And as for eating out, it just wasn’t done, or at least very rarely. Now, every other establishment in Reading serves food, or so it seems as I stroll past the cafes and restaurants in the downtown area.

Along the way, I cross over the Kennet-Avon canal which looks serene and well-groomed in the late August sunshine.

Kennet and Avon Canal in Reading
Kennet-Avon canal in Reading

When I arrive at MERL, associate director Isabel Hughes meets me and, over a very welcome cup of tea, we start our chat.

The Interview

Here’s a summary of my interview with Isabel Hughes, associate director of the Museum of English Rural Life (MERL) at the University of Reading in England.

Carol

What is the purpose of the Museum of English Rural Life?

Isabel

The purpose of the museum is to present exhibits and objects that help visitors understand the human side of English rural life: the production of food, farming practices since the 19th century, and the changing countryside. We like to present the human side of rural life and really celebrate working people since the vast majority of people in the 19th century and into the 20th century either worked on the land or in mills, or were servants.

Farming practices began to change in the late 19th century because of the agricultural depression caused by wheat production in Canada.

Carol

That’s very interesting because in my novel Mill Song, my main character’s family moves from Devon because there is no more farm labor work for the men. I thought it was because of mechanization that jobs became scarce, but there was also an agricultural depression. It’s interesting that Canada was to blame! A lot of people, including many of my ancestors, emigrated from a rural life in the West Country to Canada during the 19th century.

Isabel

MERL was started by the Agriculture Department at the University of Reading in 1951. World War II had ended and there was a push to make agriculture more self-sufficient and productive with the use of insecticides and the development of large farms. But as a result, traditional farming practices were being lost.

The founders of the museum realized this and decided to collect items such as old wagons and hand tools. They went to agricultural shows and talked to farmers, and acquired examples of traditional crafts such as basketry, woodworking, and bodging (making things such as brooms and chairs out of unseasoned green wood).

In 2004, the museum moved to its present location in the former St. Andrew’s Hall of residence, helped in part by funding from Alfred Palmer, a well-known Reading businessperson.

Carol

I well remember taking my exams at Reading University in the Palmer Building! He was quite the benefactor.

What is your number one recommendation for touring the museum?

Isabel

We like people to have a wander and see it all. The huge collection of wagons is particularly impressive. We have wagons from almost every county in England.

An old wagon in the Museum of English Rural Life
One of the many wagons at MERL, this one from Dorset

People can explore the eight galleries and then go upstairs to view our open storage of the thousands of items the museum has collected over the years.

Attached to each artifact is a luggage label; these were the original labels affixed when the artifact was acquired by the museum.

A large collection of farm implements in the open storage area of the museum
A large collection of farm implements in the open storage area of the museum

Another thing that we want people to notice is the textile wall hanging created for the Countryside Pavilion at the Festival of Britain in 1951. It was one of several we acquired. The one on display depicts Cheshire and cheese production.

An enormous wall hanging featuring cheshire and cheese production at the Museum of English Rural Life
An enormous wall hanging featuring Cheshire and cheese production

Carol

What is your favorite exhibit and why?

Isabel

I think my favorite is a pitchfork that was grown in a hedgerow. A branch growing off the shrub was nurtured until it was just the right size and shape for a pitchfork.

It’s made by nature but guided by hand.

A pitchfork grown in a hedgerow at the Museum of English Rural Life in Reading, England.
Isabel’s favorite, a pitchfork grown from a hedgerow

Carol

What are some of the hidden gems that visitors should check out at MERL?

Isabel

The display of friendly society pole heads is intriguing. A friendly society was a cooperative that workers bought into. If they had a rough time, then the cooperative could help to support them. The pole heads were elaborately carved and resembled pub signs. They were carried in processions such as church parades.

A collection of silver pole heads that resemble English pub signs
Some of the silver pole heads in the MERL collection

Carol

Is this place the only rural museum in England?

Isabel

It is one of the earliest museums but not the only one. There is a rural museum network that includes small community museums. Other large museums like MERL are the National Museum of Rural Life in Scotland and the St. Fagan’s National Museum of History in Wales. There is also the Weald and Downland Living Museum near Chichester, which is where Repair Shop is filmed. We like to think of MERL as the national rural museum for England, but it is not, officially.

Carol

Isabel

We’ve had images from the wall hangings turned into merchandise such as mugs, pencil cases, notebooks, tea towels and bags. We also have tea towels depicting engineering drawings of farm machinery, which are very popular with enthusiasts who are interested in recreating rural farm machinery.

Carol

Are any new exhibits planned?

Isabel

We have quite a few artifacts related to the Roma people that are often not labeled as such. These include photographs of people working the land, and a gypsy wagon. We are starting to re-label these artifacts to feature the history of the Roma people in the English countryside.

A gypsy wagon at the Museum of English Rural Life
A gypsy wagon

Carol

Anything else you’d like to share?

Isabel

At MERL, we have an extensive library and archives containing a wealth of stories. Of particular note is our archive of letters that children evacuees during World War II sent to their parents when they were evacuated from the cities to the countryside. Reading was one of the hubs for evacuee children. Some of the letters were positive, depicting the experience as active and fun, while others were from children who were upset and even mistreated.

The labels affixed to the children when they were put on the train to go into the countryside inspired Michael Bond to write the Paddington Bear books in the 1950s.

A group of children being evacuated from the city during World War II
A group of children being evacuated from the city during World War II

Touring the Museum Galleries

After our chat, Isabel takes me around the museum. Seeing it after talking with her really brings it to life. Throughout the galleries are interactive activities for children. MERL has an active school program and welcomes over 50,000 visitors a year, likely a good proportion of them families.

I love the sheep clad in an Aran sweater in the first main gallery.

A large stuffed sheep wearing an Aran sweater
A large stuffed sheep wearing an Aran sweater greets visitors to the first large gallery

The size of MERL surprises me. The galleries go on forever, each one more chock-a-block with artifacts than the last. You can spend a lot of time here!

One of the very large galleries at the Museum of English Rural Life
One of the very large galleries at the Museum of English Rural Life

Land Girls

I’m particularly taken by the collection of objects and photographs related to the Land Girls—young women who worked on the farms during World War II. Here are photographs of several Land Girls and the uniform they wore.

Photograph of five Land Girls, young women who worked the farms during WW II
Land Girls in World War II

Photograph of the uniform worn by Land Girls, young women who worked the farms during WW II
Land Girls uniform in World War II

The Land Girls experience inspired Land Girls, a British TV series available on Netflix.

Traps

A sobering exhibit features various traps—both for animals and people. The two human traps are particularly horrifying. Anyone caught in one would likely die a very slow and painful death. These traps were placed to prevent poaching.

Two traps used prior to 1827 to catch poachers
Human traps, fortunately outlawed in 1827.

We spend almost an hour roaming through the galleries and viewing the open storage collections on the first floor. I’m very impressed with both the size and the quality of the exhibits and am reminded how, in another life, I would have loved to have been a museum curator.

But being a novelist and travel blogger is also good—and MERL ticks the boxes on both fronts. I’m finding plenty of inspiration for the country scenes in Mill Song. The open storage collection of smocks, many beautifully embellished with traditional smocking, reminds me of what some of my characters may have worn. I can also imagine my main character wearing a bonnet, such as the ones displayed, while she helped with the harvest.

Several smocks hanging in open storage at the Museum of Rural Life
These smocks were likely worn for special occasions

A collection of bonnets worn by women on farms in the 19th century
Bonnets in open storage

New Inspiration

To my delight, MERL sparks inspiration for a new novel based around the story of two evacuees in World War II. After my meeting with Isabel, I scribble several pages of notes about possible characters and plots. It looks like I’m going to have to return to MERL to comb through their extensive archive of letters written by evacuees during World War II.

I can only imagine what treasures await.

As the museum gets set to close, Isabel and I pose for a photo, I purchase a notebook that shows a detail from the Cheshire wall hanging, and say my good-byes.

Carol Cram and Isabel Hughes, co-director of the Museum of English Rural Life
Carol Cram with Isabel Hughes, associate director of the Museum of English Rural Life

I walk back to my hotel, enjoy an excellent dinner, and then, finally, turn the lights out at 9. My first day in the UK has been a success.

Exploring the Area

Here are some GetYourGuide tours in southern England. Most depart from London.

Powered by GetYourGuide

Conclusion

The Museum of English Rural Life is a specialty museum with broad appeal. Touring a museum dedicated to how food was produced back in the day reminds us of our rural roots–and everyone eats food! No matter where you come from, chances are good that at least a few of your ancestors had something to do with agriculture.

The opening times of Museum of English Rural Life are from 10am to 5pm daily and entrance is free. It is located at 6 Redlands Road in Reading, Berkshire. The museum’s extensive website showcases its many exhibits.

Have you visited this museum or another like it? Share your comments and suggestions in the comments below.

Other Specialty Museums on Artsy Traveler

Welcome sign to Proyecto Asis near La Fortuna in Costa rica

Spending an Amazing Day at Proyecto Asis Wildlife Refuge in Costa Rica

Costa Rica, Cultural Experiences Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on Spending an Amazing Day at Proyecto Asis Wildlife Refuge in Costa Rica

Last updated on December 1st, 2025 at 07:19 pm

I highly, highly recommend spending a day at a wildlife refuge while traveling in Costa Rica.

Just make sure you do your research and find a reputable one that places the animals’ best interests far above those of tourists.

I did quite a bit of searching online before selecting Proyecto Asis for my wildlife refuge day. Its numerous five-star reviews and assurances that it existed for the benefit of the animals in its care convinced us.

A non-profit organization, Proyecto Asis provides a secure home to orphaned, abandoned, injured or otherwise neglected animals.

Pinterest graphic with the text "Proyecto Asis: Spend the Day and Fall in Love with Wildlife" over a picture of a blue parrot.

Overview of Proyecto Asis

The intention is to eventually release the animals back to the wild. Unfortunately, humans have damaged some of the animals so badly that they can never again live safely outside captivity.

We learned all this during the course of the day, and it was fascinating–and also very sad.

Proyecto Asis is located about 45 minutes from La Fortuna in a beautiful area of farms and forests. If you’re driving, you can get there easily from La Fortuna, or you can ask Proyecto Asis to hire a driver for you (that’s what we did).

Established in 2002, Proyecto Asis is now an animal rescue center, Spanish school, and volunteer center.

Booking a Day at Proyecto Asis

I booked our day at the Proyecto Asis a few months before our visit to Costa Rica. Their website provided several options. We chose to do the sloth walk in the morning, the tour of the wildlife refuge in the afternoon, and an hour or two of volunteering at the end of the day.

I’m very glad we chose to stay for the whole day. Having that much time at the wildlife refuge gave us a good feel for the place and for the excellent work it does protecting animals.

I could have happily spent another whole day there. Proyecto Asis has several programs to accommodate a range of interests, so if wildlife conservation is your thing, you’ll likely find some good options.

Getting to Proyecto Asis

Proyecto Asis has organized a transfer for us from the Tabacon Hot Springs Resort near La Fortuna. Promptly at 9:30 am, our driver Alfonso arrives to pick us up. He speaks good English and gets us to the refuge right on time.

On the way, he pulls into a fruit stand and emerges holding two containers of freshly chopped papaya, pineapple, and watermelon that he presents to us.

How thoughtful! The fruit is achingly fresh and refreshing and way better than the fruit at the hotel breakfast.

Entrance to Proyecto Asis near La Fortuna in Costa Rica
Entrance to Proyecto Asis Wild Animal Rescue Center

Touring the Sloth Sanctuary

After arriving at Proyecto Asis, we are warmly greeted and our fruit stored for the day in the refrigerator. After spraying ourselves with bug repellant (in the parking lot, not in the forest, to avoid affecting the animals!), we join a family of four for a tour of the sloth sanctuary across the road.

The sanctuary is home to many sloths who live in the wild. While there are informative plaques dotted around the pathways, the sanctuary is not a zoo.

Our guide Jonny shares his enthusiasm and extensive knowledge about sloths, stopping every so often during our walk to share information about the four different species of sloths. We don’t see any other wildlife, although Jonny tells us that the week before, he spotted a three-meter boa. I can’t say I’m sorry I didn’t see it too.

Seeing Sloths

Like Luis, our guide at the Arenal Night Walk (described in my post See Costa Rica in Two Packed and Perfect Weeks), Jonny carries a large telescope on a tripod. Without it, seeing any sloths at all beyond brown fur balls high in the trees will be impossible. Jonny also has a contraption to strap the iPhone to the telescope to take pictures and videos of the sloths.

Sloth hanging in a tree
A sloth hanging out in its natural habitat

Learning About Sloths

One of my favorite exhibits at the sloth sanctuary is of the massive prehistoric sloth—twenty feet high and nothing like his furry, bug-infested ancestor. This guy was anything but cute!

We learn that hundreds and hundreds of insects buzz around the sloths hanging out in the trees. Through the telescope, we can see so many that the sloths appear blurry. When a sloth does move, it is to scratch itself, which is hardly surprising.

Jonny tells us that baby sloths stay with Mama for five months. Mama then brings baby down to the ground and leaves it there to fend for itself because presumably by that time it knows how to be a sloth.

Hearing from the Guide

Here’s a clip of Jonny talking about sloths. His enthusiasm for his subject is infectious.

In recent years, these creatures, which are actually not at all cuddly and even dangerous to get near as a result of the bugs infesting them, have become incredibly popular. Sloths are the unofficial mascot of Costa Rica. Their images are everywhere–from T-shirts to tea towels and every possible thing in between.

Unfortunately, their popularity has led to some so-called wildlife parks exploiting them to entertain tourists. However, the Costa Rican government is doing its best to crack down on questionable wildlife practices and is shutting down facilities that do not protect the animals.

The sloth walk is through very lush jungle that includes plenty of vibrant flowers. The air hums with insects and the heat and humidity are tropical but still comfortable for walking.

Tropical flowers at Proyecto Asis near La Fortuna in Costa Rica
Beautiful tropical flowers at the sloth sanctuary

Lunch at a Soda

After the sloth walk, we walk down the road to a soda, which is a small restaurant run by locals, to enjoy food that is hearty, typical, and cheap. We both enjoy excellent meals plus pineapple drinks for about 11000 colóns, which is less than $20 USD. It is a bargain for sure.

Excellent simple meal at a soda in Costa Rica
My tasty lunch at a soda

Wildlife Refuge Tour

After lunch, we walk back to Proyecto Asis for the wildlife refuge tour. I have no idea what to expect. To my surprise and delight, the next two hours fly by during probably the most interesting and comprehensive tour I’ve ever been on for anything, anywhere (and I’ve been on my fair share of tours over the years).

Much of the appeal of the tour is due to the personality and enthusiasm of Carlos, our guide. Numerous Trip Advisor reviews mention him by name and no wonder. The man is a gifted entertainer and so passionate about communicating and educating visitors about wildlife preservation and rehabilitation.

Beautiful blue parrot greets us as we enter the wildlife sanctuary to start the tour

Learning About Rescue Animals

All the animals at the Proyecto Asis Wildlife Refuge are rescued, the vast majority from homes where, tragically, they were kept as pets. It’s so sad to hear their stories.

Carlos stops at every cage and introduces the animal, tells us its story, and describes how the staff at the refuge are rehabilitating the animal back into the wild. For some, the process will take years; for others, just a few months depending on the severity of injury and trauma the animal has suffered.

A few of the animals are so damaged that they will never be able to survive in the wild. At least they will live their lives securely and be well fed, with plenty of other animals to keep them company.

Carlos talks a lot about how animals in captivity often exhibit unnatural behaviors. Here he explains why parrot “talk”!

Monkeys at Proyecto Asis

The animals in the refuge vary so you never know what you’ll see. On the day we visit, we see spider monkeys and white-faced monkeys, two of the five species of monkeys in Costa Rica. Some are wild monkeys that have been hit by cars and need to recover from their injuries before being returned to the forest. These are the luckier ones. At least they know how to live in the wild.

A monkey at Proyecto Asis
One of the monkeys hanging out

The saddest stories are of the poor creatures who were taken from the wild as babies and then kept chained up for years until finally their owners tired of them and dumped them at the refuge. These monkeys need to learn how to be monkeys again.

Carlos spends a lot of time describing the various ways in which they retrain the monkeys, always with the intention of preparing them for the wild. While they do name the monkeys to identify them, they do not interact with them as pets. They are wild animals—or soon to be—and the respect for them is palpable and so admirable.

Here Carlos explains about monkeys and their tails.

Carlos emphasizes over and over again how they do not want to make the animals playthings of humans, that they deserve to have their own lives as free and wild creatures. All behaviors that are not found in the wild are slowly changed, usually by the animals themselves.

A monkey that arrives at the refuge not knowing how to swing by its tail because it never got the chance to learn while in captivity eventually learns by watching the other monkeys.

How Monkeys Become Pets

Carlos tells us how people get monkeys to sell as pets. They go into the forest and take baby monkeys. And how do they get a baby monkey? They kill the mother because if they don’t, the mother will attack. So, two lives are ruined, and for what? It’s heartbreaking, but also heartening because facilities like the Proyecto Asis are doing incredible work.

A monkey staring out of its cage at Proyecto Asis
A better life awaits this guy once he can be rehabilitated back to the wild where he belongs.

A Green Boa

While standing in front of one of monkey cages, we see this beautiful fellow slowly slithering past. He pays zero attention to us.

A snake goes on its slithery way

Tropical Birds at Proyecto Asis

In addition to the monkeys, the refuge takes care of a great variety of tropical birds, particularly toucans, macaws, and parrots. Almost all these birds were once pets. Most have come to the refuge without their tail feathers and some with broken wings, clipped wings, and worse. The birds are so damaged that rehabilitating them can take years. In fact, some of the birds will never be released.

A beautiful scarlet macaw at Proyecto Asis
The parrots are so spectacular

Macaws

Macaws are known to mate for life. When one dies, the other usually dies within weeks. But what self-respecting red or green macaw will mate with a hybrid? None.

We also learn that parrots are not monogamous. When a mate dies, the survivor quickly finds another mate. Interestingly, the parrots live about 40 years. The macaws with their one-mate-for-life live for about 100 years. One point for monogamy!

Carlos explains about how parrots that are separated can get depressed and then die.

A Hybrid Macaw

One of the most tragic stories is of a macaw that was bred from a red macaw and a green macaw. This combination is impossible in nature, because the two species of macaws live in different parts of Costa Rica and would never meet, never mind mate. But some horrible person did manage to mate a red one with a green one. The resulting offspring will forever live at the refuge because in the wild, it couldn’t survive in the area where the red macaws live and it couldn’t survive in the area where the green macaws live.

The hybrid is apparently worth a great deal of money because its plumage is so striking, although so, so wrong. Fortunately for the hybrid, it’s found a good home at Proyecto Asis well away from wildlife traffickers.

A hybrid macaw at Proyecto Asis
This hybrid was bred in captivity and will never be able to live in the wild

I love the toucans; and there are plenty at the refuge. They are so comical to watch, with their large beaks. It’s great to be able to get so close to them.

A toucan at Proyecto Asis
A toucan poses for a picture

Carlos never stops talking for two hours and everything he says is fascinating. I am riveted and inspired.

Volunteering at Proyecto Asis

After the wildlife tour (we also see three wild pigs, two caimans, and a morgay, which is a type of small wildcat), Carlos teaches Julia, me, and one other person from the refuge tour how to chop fruit and veggies to feed the monkeys.

Julia chopping fruit while volunteering at Proyecto Asis
Julia chops fruit for the monkeys

Again, Carlos keeps up a steady stream of commentary about how the animals are fed, how he makes sure the alpha males don’t steal every portion, etc. I learn so much!

After we chop the fruit, Carlos leads us to the monkey enclosures, and we get to watch while the monkeys eat their dinner. But only some of the monkeys! We learn that the refuge doesn’t allow guests to watch the same monkeys eat every day. Guests are rotated between the various monkey cages so that all monkeys get at least a few days a week to eat in privacy. Apparently, privacy has been identified as an important need for the monkeys, which makes sense. I wouldn’t want people watching me eat all the time either.

Conclusion

At the end of our wonderful day at Proyecto Asis, a different driver picks us up and whisks us back to La Fortuna. We ask him to drop us in the town rather than taking us to Tabacón Grand Spa Thermal Resort, which is about 7 kilometers away. For several hours, we enjoy wandering around the shops and then having a meal.

Sign up for a tour of a wildlife refuge when you visit Costa Rica. You won’t be disappointed! And check out my long post about my visit to Costa Rica: See Costa Rica in Two Packed and Perfect Weeks

Here are some other tours in Costa Rica:

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Silvia Salvadori, an artist in Arezzo with author Carol Cram

A Visit with Tuscan Artist Silvia Salvadori in Arezzo, Tuscany

Cultural Experiences, Italy Artsy Traveler 1 Comment on A Visit with Tuscan Artist Silvia Salvadori in Arezzo, Tuscany

Last updated on December 1st, 2025 at 07:31 pm

Artsy traveling means being on the lookout for interesting encounters with artists, artisans, musicians, writers—the whole pantheon of creative people.

In Arezzo, a delightful town in Tuscany known as the city of gold and high fashion, I met with visual artist Silvia Salvadori.

Silvia works out of her studio, the Bottega d’Arte Toscana, on a tiny side street steps from the Piazza Grande in Arezzo (see the map below).

If you are in Arezzo, stop by to meet her and see her marvelous work.

Pinterest graphic showing Carol Cram with Silvia Salvadori, an artist in Arezzo, Itlay in her studio.

Map of Arezzo

Places mapped by Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

Silvia is one of the very few artists in Italy who creates art using the same painting techniques as those used by the great masters of medieval Tuscany. I’m talking about such luminaries as Giotto, Duccio, and Lorenzetti—all artists I love and who inspired my debut novel The Towers of Tuscany.

Who is Silvia Salvadori?

Silvia’s ambition as an artist is to preserve and promote the ancient painting techniques described by Cennino Cennini in his work Il Libro dell’Arte (1370-1440) and by Giorgio Vasari in the Lives of the most excellent painters, sculptors, and architects (1550-1568). 

Using these techniques, Silvia draws her inspiration from the art created by artists in Florence and Siena during medieval, Gothic, and early Renaissance times.

Silvia’s workshop–the Bottega d’Arte Toscana–is a treasure trove of beautiful paintings. One of the more prominent pieces is A Window in Time that hangs on the back wall of the Bottega and immediately captured my attention.

This arresting painting is a tribute to the city of Arezzo and the work of Piero della Francesca. The painting is a good example of how Silvia uses medieval painting techniques to put her own spin on a medieval subject.

A Window On Time - medieval-style painting of a woman playing chess by Silvia Salvadori

Interview with Silvia Salvadori

I interviewed Silvia in the Bottega d’Arte Toscana in Arezzo in October 2022. Here’s an excerpt from our lively conversation conducted with the aid of a translation app.

Silvia’s Inspiration

Artsy Traveler: Why have you chosen to create works inspired by medieval art and using medieval techniques?

Silvia Salvadori: Twenty years ago, I began to study these painting techniques while at school in Siena. From there, a real adventure began. I decided I wanted to rediscover and use the painting techniques described by Cennini, a painter who lived in the 14th century and was a pupil of Giotto.

Selection of pigments and brushes and other painting tools in the workshop of Silvia Salvadori
Art materials being used in Silvia’s workshop

Silvia’s Goal as an Artist

Artsy Traveler: What is your goal?

Silvia Salvadori: My goal is to preserve these techniques from medieval art and pass them on to future generations. These techniques are typically Tuscan. They were born in Siena  and then also applied later by artists living in Florence and Arezzo where other schools of painting were born.

There have been other artists who have taken up these techniques but only to make reproductions or copies. I started by making copies, but now I am creating a style that is Renaissance but that also looks to the future.

It is a cultural project. These medieval art techniques are important and should not be lost.

How Silvia Creates a Painting

Artsy Traveler: How do you create a painting?

Silvia Salvadori: As described in Cennini’s book Il Libro dell’Arte, I start with wooden boards from poplar, lime, willow or pear trees that have been aged at least thirty years. I then prepare them using layers and layers (eight to twelve coats) of rabbit skin glue mixed with chalk. The chalk I use is the same kind that Cennini used in the 14th century. I also use the same pigments that Cennini describes.

The second phase is gilding performed with thin leaves of pure 23 carat gold stretched on a thin layer of red clay. I also use precious gems. These gems all had special meaning in medieval times. For example, amber, which I use a lot, symbolizes eternity.

For a detailed description of all the steps involved in creating a painting, check this page on Silvia’s website.

Silvia demonstrates how she uses a small punch to make designs in the gold leaf.

Landscapes in Silvia’s Work

Artsy Traveler: I see that you also often include landscapes in your paintings.

Silvia Salvadori: Yes, since I live in Arezzo and every day see the Tuscany landscape, I like to include it in my paintings.

An example of one of Silvia Salvadori’s landscape paintings

Looking to the Future

Artsy Traveler: Will you one day teach your techniques?

Silvia: I would very much like to teach young people how to paint using these techniques so that the techniques are not lost. But as Cennino said, technique is not enough. To create art, you must have a kind soul.

Silvia’s Artwork

As soon as you see one of Silvia’s pieces, you know you are looking at work inspired by medieval and Renaissance art. And while most of her subjects are directly related to their medieval and Renaissance counterparts, some subjects are contemporary and from pop culture.

Silvia’s work glows with the rich colors she creates from pigments she mixes with egg tempera, just like Cennini describes in his handbook. Her skill is awe-inspiring. Following are examples of the many gorgeous paintings hanging in Bottega d’Arte.

Paintings of Madonna and Child

Go to any art gallery in Italy that features medieval art and you’ll see scores of depictions of the Madonna and Child. Silvia’s versions, while heavily inspired by medieval works, are fresh and vibrant. The colors glow in the soft light of her workshop.

Here are four of the Madonna and Child paintings displayed in the Bottega d’Arte.

A depiction of the Madonna and Child by Silvia Salvadori done in the medieval style
A small, circular gold painting of the Madonna and Child by Silvia Salvadori done in the medieval style
A gold painting of the Madonna and Child by Silvia Salvadori done in the medieval style
A medieval-inspired painting of the Madonna and Child by Silvia Salvadori done in the medieval style

Paintings of Medieval Scenes

I love how medieval artists depicted buildings and towns. Silvia does the same when she includes buildings in her paintings. I particularly loved these two pieces.

Medieval-style painting of Christ and the devil by Silvia Salvadori
Medieval style painting by Silvia Salvadori of Saint George and the dragon

Paintings with Contemporary Subjects

Silvia doesn’t confine herself to creating works in the medieval style. Many of the paintings in her workshop depict contemporary subjects—from Marilyn Monroe to a dachshund (one of my favorites).

Painting on a gold background of a dachshund

My Connection to Silvia’s Work

I was thrilled to discover Silvia and her beautiful artwork for two reasons. First, as you’ve already seen from the examples included in this post, her work is stunning. And second, her work has a direct connection with my first novel The Towers of Tuscany about a female painter in 14th-century Tuscany.

When I was researching early Renaissance painting techniques in order to write the novel, I read and re-read Il Libro dell’Arte by Cennino de Cennini many times. Imagine my delight to discover that Silvia is intimately familiar with Cennini’s book, credited as the first manual designed to teach painting techniques to artists.

I felt honored to spend time with someone totally dedicated to her art. Silvia clearly loves what she does. As I watched her paint with tiny brushes that she uses to meticulously layer on stroke after stroke, I felt like the centuries had melted away and I was watching Sofia Barducci, my fictional heroine in The Towers of Tuscany, at work.

I have every confidence that Silvia will be able to realize her ambition to one day share her knowledge with other artists so that the ancient techniques are kept alive.

Visit Silvia Salvadori

Visit Silvia in the Bottega d’Arte Toscana in Arezzo and tell her the Artsy Traveler sent you! And after you’ve enjoyed meeting Silvia, consider purchasing one of her pieces. She has a wide variety of sizes and subjects to choose from. And considering the hours and hours of work Silvia dedicates to each of her pieces, the prices are very reasonable.

A selection of small paintings for sale in the Bottega d'Arte Toscana in Arezzo
Gregg Simpson with Silvia Salvadori in her studio

I love the small piece I purchased of a stylized Tuscan town painted in Silvia’s unique style. I have hung it next to my writing desk so I can look at it every day and remember the wonderful hour I spent getting to know Silvia and admiring her work.

Small and colorful gold painting by Silvia Salvadori of a Tuscan town
The small painting I purchased from Silvia Salvadori

Visit Arezzo

After meeting Silvia in the Bottega d’Arte, take time to wander around Arezzo. It’s a charming town with plenty to delight the Artsy Traveler. With its inclined trapezoidal shape, the Piazza Grande is one of the most beautiful in Tuscany (which is saying something!).

Here are some pictures of the Piazza Grande.

Piazza Grande in Arezzo in Tuscany
Medieval houses lining the Piazza Grande in Arezzo in Tuscany

And like so many towns in Tuscany, a big attraction is the food. We passed numerous stores and cafes featuring local cuisine. The specialty in Arezzo is Pappardelle all’Aretina (a ribbon-shaped pasta served with a sauce made from rabbit or duck), Zuppa di Cavolo (a cabbage soup), and the Pappa al Pomodoro (a tomato soup).

Check out some of the tours offered by GetYourGuide while visiting Arezzo:

Conclusion

Have you visited Arezzo? Share your experience and suggestions with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.

Here are some more posts about artists in Europe:

Exploring Burgos and León along the Camino of Santiago

Cultural Experiences, Spain Artsy Traveler 1 Comment on Exploring Burgos and León along the Camino of Santiago

Last updated on December 1st, 2025 at 07:19 pm

Burgos and León are both fascinating cities located along the Camino of Santiago in northern Spain.

Guest poster Elizabeth Petrie spent time in Burgos and León during her journey along the Camino of Santiago.

In this post, Elizabeth shares what to see and do in two of northern Spain’s most beautiful—and often under-visited—cities.

Guest poster Elizabeth Petrie on the Camino of Santiago

Orientation to Burgos & Leon

The map below includes the places mentioned in this post. Click a number to find out more information.

Exploring Burgos

Burgos is the provincial capital of Castilla y León in northern Spain. Its location on the Camino de Santiago route makes it a natural stopping point for pilgrims traveling the Way. This gorgeous medieval city is well worth a day or two of any traveler’s time.

If you’re traveling in northern Spain, put Burgos on your itinerary. Major sights include:

  • One of Spain’s most magnificent cathedrals
  • A castle
  • An atmospheric old city
  • Excellent museums, including the world-class Museo de Evolución Humana
  • The wonderfully photogenic Arco de Santa Maria
  • Wonderful food.

Museo de Evolución Humana

The Museo de Evolución Humana (#1) (Museum of Human Evolution) is simply terrific and a highlight of our travels in northern Spain. The modern glass construction with high open spaces houses three floors of authentic and reproduction artifacts, including bones, skulls, animal jaws, tools, and portable art.

Adults and kids alike enjoy the interactive displays and quizzes, the videoclips of recent discoveries, the various re-enactments and interpretations of early humans’ social behaviours, and marvellous representations of various members of Australopithecus and Homo.

The museum also includes exhibits on Atapuerca, the archaeological site north of Burgos. Here, Europe’s oldest human fossil remains were discovered in 2007. We walked past Atapuerca on our way into Burgos.

Menhirs in a field near Atapeurca in northern Spain
Standing stones near Atapuerca in the Province of Burgos and near the Way

Lucky for us, the museum was almost empty. We were able to spend as much time as we liked in front of the various displays and interactive activities.

Statue of Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar

On your way from the museum back to the central plaza in Burgos, you pass a statue of hometown boy Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar, better known as El Cid, who was born in Burgos in 1043 and died in 1099.

Statue of El Cid mounted on horseback with sword in Burgos

El Cid was a Castilian knight and warlord who became a Spanish folk hero and national icon as a result of his service in the armies of both Christian and Muslim rulers, and his temporary conquest of Valencia. El Cid is the protagonist in the most significant medieval Spanish epic poem, El Cantar de Mio Cid.

The Cathedral of Burgos

The 13th-century Cathedral of Burgos (#2)—a UNESCO World Heritage Site—is massive, incorporating the church itself, the cloisters, the Bishop’s Palace, and part of the original city walls. The interior has three naves separated by rows of huge columns and flanked by fifteen side chapels containing altars, tombs, relics, and precious artifacts. 

View of Burgos Cathedral in Burgos, Spain
Burgos Cathedral is one of the most important cathedrals in Spain.

Everywhere you look, whether on the facades or inside the cathedral, you’ll see decoration or carving. The term “el horror del vacío” (“the horror of empty space”) was never so applicable as in the interior of Burgos Cathedral.

The magnificent star-vaulted dome and the spectacular rose windows are awe-inspiring. Also amazing are the gold plating and ornate carvings on the retablo of the high altar that depicts the life of the Virgin Mary.

Altar in the Cathedral of Burgos
Altar in the Cathedral of Burgos

Saints, angels, the nobility, important clergy, and the monarchs appear below the deities—a reminder of God’s absolute power.

One of the highlights in the cathedral is a portrait of Mary Magdalene by Leonardo da Vinci (~1515 ). We also saw one of El Cid’s trunks and a small wooden door with a carved face into whose mouth pilgrims inserted small coins.

If you go, rent the audio guide to learn about the art and architecture. The Cathedral of Burgos ranks alongside the likes of Westminster Abbey, Notre Dame in Paris, and Milan Cathedral—but without the crowds.

Burgos Castle

Include a visit to Burgos Castle (#3), with its original structure and fortifications dating to the 9th century. The small museum is interesting, but the real attraction is the spectacular view over the city of Burgos.

Arco de Santa Maria

The Arco de Santa Maria (#4) is one of the twelve medieval doors that led into the medieval city of Burgos. Rebuilt by Charles V in the 16th century, the structure is worth a stop to admire the carvings on the facade. You can go inside to view special exhibitions and a small museum. At night, the Arco de Santa Maria is beautifully illuminated.

View of the Arco de Santa Maria, an ornately carved wall in Burgos, Spain
Arco de Santa Maria in Burgos

Tours in Burgos

Here are some options for tours in Burgos through GetYourGuide:

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León

León is a delightful small city that is a bit off the beaten path but worth a visit for its magnificent cathedral, beautiful old town, and the chance to stay in Parador de León, Hostal de San Marcos, Spain’s top parador (see description below).

We stayed two nights in León which, like Burgos, is situated on the Camino. In fact, the Camino crosses the large plaza in front of the parador. The distinctive concha design symbolizing the Camino is everywhere in León, including on the facades of the buildings.

Historic Center of León

The historic centre of León is utterly charming, with narrow streets and very old and historic buildings. Some of the architecture incorporates the city walls of Roman times. You’ll find plenty of small and large plazas lined with outdoor cafés and interesting shops.

Take time to wander around the town, even occasionally getting lost while appreciating the beauty of this wonderfully walkable city.

León Cathedral

Often dubbed La Casa de la Luz (House of Light), the 13th-century Catedral Santa María de León (#5) is magnificent. Soaring sandstone towers glow in the evening light, and the interior is breathtaking, with three rose windows instead of the usual one.

View of the Cathedral of Leon in Spain
Cathedral of León in Spain

The cathedral was built on the site of the 2nd-century Roman baths, which were converted to a royal palace around the year 1000. A masterpiece of Gothic architecture, the cathedral consists of two towers with a large portal between them, and flying buttresses crusted with gargoyles on the exterior walls.

León is often referred to as the city of stained glass, and no wonder. Windows dating from the 13th to the 15th century contain over 1,800 square meters of stained glass. Also inside the cathedral are hundreds of pieces of sacred art, including examples from Romanesque to Neoclassical times.

León’s cathedral is one of the most important along the Way.

Basilica of San Isidro

Don’t miss the smaller but equally enchanting Basilica of San Isidro (#6). Located on the site of an ancient Roman temple, the church’s Christian roots extend to the early 10th century when a monastery for Saint John the Baptist was erected on the grounds.

Basilica of San Isidro, León - Spain
Basilica of San Isidro, León – Spain

Built in the Romanesque style, the basilica also has elements of both Gothic and Islamic architecture. Check out the 12th-century painted murals in the funeral chapel of the kings of León. The exceptionally well-preserved murals present New Testament subjects as well as scenes of contemporary rural life.

Stay at the Parador de León

The Parador de León (#7) is one of the most luxurious places I’ve ever stayed. Sponsored by the Spanish government, the parador system of lodgings includes refurbished historic buildings, such as castles, monasteries, and royal residences. The system also includes some purpose-built, modern hotels.

Parador San Marcos in León
Parador San Marcos in León

For five-star luxury, we paid about €170 each for two nights—a serious bargain, considering the service and surroundings.

King Ferdinand founded the Parador de León, Hostal de San Marcos in the early 16th century as a church and hospital for knights of the Order of Saint James. Some of the original staircase has been preserved, as have the curved ceilings, chandeliers, and cloister windows. Fabulous portraits and Renaissance artifacts and armour adorn the lobby and corridors.

Our room—which we accessed with a large skeleton key—was located in one of the converted monks’ cells in the cloister. The room was beautifully appointed with 1000-count monogrammed sheets, slippers, and luxury toiletries.

Museum at the Parador

Visit the church and museum attached to the parador. The original buildings were erected on the remains of a Roman fortress, and the church dates from the mid-12th century. Many sarcophagi and Roman stelae from ancient times dot the lovely cloister gardens. Sadly, parts of the church grounds have a darker past when they served as a prison for suspected or accused fighters in the Spanish Civil War.  

Tours in León

Here are some options for tours in León through Tiqets.com:

Conclusion

Even if you’re not walking the Camino, put Burgos and León on your itinerary in northern Spain. For more information about places to visit in northern Spain, including both Santiago de Compostela and Bilbao, see Exploring Northern Spain and Basque Country.

For more about Elizabeth’s journey along the Camino read her Top Tips for Walking the Camino of Santiago and excerpts from her journal in A Camino Journal: Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela.

Best Tips for Walking the Camino of Santiago

Cultural Experiences, Spain Artsy Traveler 4 Comments on Best Tips for Walking the Camino of Santiago

Last updated on December 1st, 2025 at 07:19 pm

Everyone I know who has walked the Camino of Santiago (the Way) to Santiago de Compostela in northwest Spain raves about the experience.

My friend and guest poster Elizabeth Petrie is no exception. She and her friend, Cheri, walked the Camino from Pamplona to Burgos and from Sarria to Santiago, with train travel between Burgos, León, and Sarria.

Elizabeth shares her experiences and recommendations in three posts on Artsy Traveler. In this post, learn her top tips for enjoying the Camino of Santiago. To find out how Elizabeth and Cheri organized their walk, read A Camino Journal: Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela. Elizabeth’s recommendations for Burgos and León are included in Exploring Burgos and León.

Pinterest graphic with the text Top tips for walking the camino of santiago over a picture of a person carrying a backpack and walking along a path on the camino of santiago

Guest Poster Elizabeth Petrie

Retirement brings new opportunities, and one of my most cherished is having the chance to travel. New places, unique experiences, wonderful memories—what could be more enticing? 

For a long time, walking across northern Spain on the Camino has topped my “bucket list.” My friend, Cheri, shared the same interest, so we decided to make plans to walk the Camino together.

Guest poster Elizabeth Petrie on the Camino of Santiago

Here are tips for helping you plan an awesome experience on the Camino of Santiago.

Prepare for the Camino of Santiago

Distance walking was new to me, so I started training about a year before leaving for Spain. Cheri and I began with modest treks of six to eight kilometers twice a week and worked up to walks of ten to twelve kilometers. By the time we left for Spain, we could comfortably walk about fourteen kilometers with our backpacks partially full.

Plan Your Itinerary

The Camino of Santiago extends across several countries and hundreds of kilometers. Start in France on the Camino Francés or complete all or a portion of the Camino del Norte like we did.

We put together an itinerary that included stays in four-star hotels in the cities we’d pass through: Pamplona, Burgos, León, and our final destination, Santiago de Compostela. We knew we’d appreciate a bit of luxury after days of slogging along and nights spent in the dormitory-like albergues.

An albergue is a hostel that provides accommodation only for pilgrims walking the Camino of Santiago. To stay in an albergue, you need to have a Pilgrims Passport.

Obtain a Pilgrims Passport

The Pilgrims Passport contains spaces for the sellos (stamps) that prove you’ve walked that day and are entitled to stay in one of the state-run albergues.

If you start the Camino from St. Jean in France or from Pamplona, like we did, you need to get one stamp per day. If you walk only the last 100 kilometers from Sarria, you need to get two stamps each day.

So long as you have sufficient stamps and you state at the Pilgrims Office in Santiago de Compostela that you’ve completed the Camino for religious or spiritual reasons, you’ll receive the Compostela at the end of the journey in Santiago.

If you state other reasons for completing the Camino, you receive a different certificate to commemorate your journey.

You can also get a passport at some albergues and pilgrims’ offices along the Way.

However, to save time, I recommend you obtain your Pilgrims Passport before you leave. To do so, connect with the Pilgrims’ Association in your home country.

Camino Websites for the UK and the United States

For other organizations, search online for Pilgrims’ Association and the name of your country.

Choose When to Go

Consider walking the Camino in May or September. The weather from June to August is too hot, the hotel prices are higher, and the Way is much more crowded.

We found that May was perfect with regard to both the weather and the crowds (or lack of!). While you definitely won’t run into crowds in the winter months, be aware that many of the smaller albergues are closed from mid-October to mid-April.

Purchase a Guidebook

I recommend A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino de Santiago (Camino Francés): St. Jean – Roncesvalles – Santiago by John Brierley. The book includes all the information you’ll need: route and town maps, and the location of coffee shops, restaurants, and albergues. The book also lists telephone numbers of the albergues so that you can book ahead.

Plan Your Daily Walk Duration

Plan to walk no more than 15 to 18 kilometers in a day (about five hours), depending on the terrain.

This distance is long enough to give you a reasonable goal, time to stop for sightseeing and meals, and the best chance of finding accommodations. Also, we found that blisters started forming if we attempted to walk more than 22 kilometers in one day.

On most days, we left the albergue around 8 am and arrived at our next albergue in the mid-afternoon. The earlier you get to the albergue you plan to stay in, the better your chances of finding accommodations. Many albergues do not take reservations, although sometimes you can speak with the hospitalero and ask them to call ahead for you.

Book Accommodations for the Final 100 Kilometers

While you do not need to book accommodations along the early stretches of the Way (and often you cannot), you should book places to stay along the last 100 kilometers.

The Way becomes increasingly crowded the closer you get to Santiago. We used booking.com to book small hotels along the last stretch of the Way and were glad we did. Each place we booked was clean and conveniently located.



Booking.com

Walk the Camino of Santiago

Here are some tips for helping you enjoy your time on the Camino.

Use the Send-Ahead Pack Service

Send your main pack ahead and hike with just a day pack. The send-ahead service was well worth the few extra euros (usually €3 to €5 per pack). You can send your pack from any Camino albergue in the morning to the albergue at your next stopping point. Call ahead to make sure the albergue you plan on staying at has available beds and will be open when the van arrives with your pack.

Take a Day Pack

Pack the following items in your day pack:

  • A full first-aid pack, complete with Compeed*and blister treatment, a needle and cotton thread, antibiotic ointment, Band-Aids, antiseptic spray, antihistamines, Afterbite, an elastic bandage, and sunscreen. You’ll find plenty of pharmacies along the Way in case you run out of anything.
  • A liter of water. If you sweat a lot, you will occasionally need to supplement your water with a local version of Gatorade.
  • A change of socks. Sweaty socks can bring on blisters. 
  • A change of shirt and rain gear if rain threatens.
  • Fresh or dried fruit, nuts, protein, etc. Depending on your route for the day, you’ll usually find small coffee bars and restaurants along the Way where you can purchase lunch.
  • Your passport, credit cards, and other essential documents. Also, carry a day’s worth of currency and never flash around large amounts of cash.

*Compeed is a miracle blister treatment available in Spanish farmacias.

I suggest stocking up on Compeed before you leave by buying it online. As soon as you feel a friction blister coming on, put the clear plastic Compeed over it and leave it on. You’ll never have another blister!

Limit Technology

On the Way, consider forgoing technology as much as possible. If you take a SmartPhone to check weather reports and make hotel bookings, particularly in the last 100 kilometers, purchase a cell phone package for Europe from your service provider or pick up a SIM card at a local provider such as Vodafone or Orange.

Use your phone to take pictures instead of carrying a heavy, expensive camera. Also, I suggest not wearing earbuds while you’re walking or you’ll miss the bird song and conversation.

One of my lasting memories on the Way is the sound of an amazing variety of bird songs.

Enjoy the Pilgrim’s Dinner

Have the pilgrim’s dinner when it’s offered at the albergues. You’ll get a cheap and tasty meal that includes soup or salad, a fish or pork entrée, dessert, and a glass of local wine. The local soups are delicious and filling.

Use Other Transportation as Needed

Consider occasionally taking a taxi or public transit when you get tired rather than risking injury. Walking the Camino in short stages will help conserve your energy.

Take Good Footwear

Wear hiking boots that are well broken in. Also, pack a pair of lighter shoes, such as Teva sandals, to occasionally give your feet a rest. Wear flip flops in the shower and around the albergue at the end of the day.

Marker along the Camino of Santiago with a running shoe
Some markers are decorated imaginatively.

Enjoy Meeting New People on the Camino

A highlight of walking the Way is meeting many wonderful and interesting people. People in the albergues and elsewhere along the Camino could not do enough for us. We always left our packs closed, and they were never disturbed, even when we left them in dormitories to go sightseeing. 

Slow Down

My best advice for walking the Camino is to slow down and savor the experience. In other words, stop and smell the roses!

Check out as many churches, shrines, historical sites, and civic plazas as you can. You’ll be amazed at the unexpected beauty and fascinating art and architecture.

Sign on the Santiago of Compostela
Sign on the Camino de Santiago

Northern Spain has been home to human beings for tens of thousands of years, from Neanderthal times to the present. You can hardly take a step without passing a fascinating site of historical significance.

For example, on some sections of the Way, you’ll be following, if not actually walking on, the original Roman roads. And in some of the smaller villages where the Spanish Civil War was fought in the 1930s, you’ll still see bullet holes in the walls of old barns and houses.

Suggested Itinerary

For a detailed breakdown of our itinerary that started in Pamplona, Spain and included stops in Burgos and León,along with a few train journeys, see the post A Camino Journey: Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela.

I can’t imagine how our trip could have been any better. We enjoyed pretty much perfect weather, and we both kept well and healthy. In addition, we met interesting people, enjoyed delicious and reasonably-priced meals, and soaked up some of the rich history and culture of Navarra, La Rioja, and Galicia.

We also appreciated the spiritual nature of our journey to Santiago, taking time every day to reflect with humble gratitude upon our many blessings. Our trip was a pilgrimage in many senses of the word.

Do I recommend walking the Camino? Absolutely!

¡Vaya con Dios!

Walking the Way from Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela: A Camino Journal

Cultural Experiences, Spain Artsy Traveler 1 Comment on Walking the Way from Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela: A Camino Journal

Last updated on December 1st, 2025 at 07:19 pm

Is walking the Camino (walking the way) across northern Spain to Santiago de Compostela on your travel wish list?

Artsy Travelers who Walk the Way will view countless treasures, including the portrait of Mary Magdalene by Leonardo da Vinci in Burgos, tiny medieval churches steeped in history, and soaring architectural wonders, such as the cathedral at León.

Elizabeth Petrie, my friend and an Artsy Traveler guest poster, walked the Camino with her friend, Cheri, and shares her experiences and insights.

A promotional image for the Camino de Santiago journal, reading 'Walking the Way: Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela' overlaid on a path and stone marker with the scallop shell symbol.

Overview of Walking the Way from Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela Camino Route

Elizabeth and Cheri walked first from Pamplona to Burgos. After a few days sightseeing in Burgos, they took the train to León and then to Lugos.

From Lugos, they rejoined the Way at Sarria and walked the last 120 kilometers to Santiago de Compostela.

Elizabeth shares her experiences and recommendations in three posts on Artsy Traveler.

A smiling person standing next to a Camino de Santiago marker with a scallop shell symbol, wearing a blue hiking outfit and hat.
Guest poster Elizabeth Petrie on the Camino of Santiago

This post includes excerpts from the detailed journal that Elizabeth kept while walking the Way. If you’re interested in walking the Way yourself, read Elizabeth’s recommendations in Top Tips for Walking the Camino to Santiago de Compostela. And for suggestions about what to see and do in beautiful Burgos and León, read Exploring Burgos and León along the Camino of Santiago.

Elizabeth’s lively description of her journey is excerpted from the journal she kept while walking the Way between May 3 and June 1, 2017.

Part 1: Walking the Camino from Pamplona to Burgos

Welcome to Pamplona

The capital of Navarra, Pamplona charms us with its pretty streets, attractive green spaces, and many historical buildings. From our window at the NH Pamplona Hotel, we enjoy a southeast view of a nearby quarry that glows in the evening sun. 

A short stroll along the main boulevard brings us to La Cittadella, an old, star-shaped fortress with huge, thick walls. The fortress is situated in a large park through which the Camino passes.

On the day we start our Camino journey, we’ll only need to walk a short distance from our hotel to pick up the trail.

What to See in Pamplona

The central Plaza del Castillo is an attractive public square surrounded by beautiful old buildings. Pamplona is full of monuments, typical in a country with thousands of years of history. All the statues and monuments are well signed and beautifully maintained.

Especially interesting is the large bronze statue depicting the famous “running of the bulls” (el encierro de toros). The portrayal of some unfortunates being trampled or gored by the bulls looks very realistic.

There’s not enough money in the world to convince me to do it, which is just as well since women typically don’t participate.

Monument depicting the Running of the Bulls in Pamplona, Spain, featuring bronze sculptures of bulls and runners in a dramatic chase scene.
Running of the Bulls Monument in Pamplona, Spain

Walking Tour of Pamplona

Consider taking a free walking tour with Free Walking Tour Pamplona.  You’ll explore the old town and visit the Gothic Cathedral of Santa Maria, the Plaza del Castillo, and the impressive fortifications that once protected the city. There’s a lot to see in Pamplona!

We’re On Our Way!

At the pilgrims’ albergue in front of the Gothic cathedral, we get our first stamp (estampilla) in our pilgrims’ passports (pasaportes de peregrinos).

We have officially begun walking the way from Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela! 

Day 1: Walking the Way from Pamplona to Puente la Reina: 27 kilometers

After three nights in lovely Pamplona, we’re feeling well rested and ready to begin walking the way on our first stretch of the Camino.

Starting Out

As the sun rises in a clear blue sky, we walk through the beautiful grounds of the Universidad de Navarra and out into lovely rolling countryside. Wild poppies are scattered among fields of newly planted crops. We hear birds singing in the fields and hedgerows.

Hikers hiking along a gravel path surrounded by green fields and trees near Pamplona, Spain, on the Camino de Santiago trail.
Setting off on the Way, west of Pamplona

We stop to get a stamp at a private albergue next to the 12th-century Iglesia de San Miguel. The fortified tower of the church was part of the Monasterio de los Hospitalarios de San Juan de Jerusalén.

The knights of the Hospitallers eventually became the Knights of St. John of Malta from which we get the St. John Ambulance service today. 

Our First Steep Section

The Alto del Perdón—the first steep section we encounter on the trail—is described in our guidebook as “not as difficult as you will have heard” and is estimated to take “only a half-hour”.

Wrong on both counts!

The trail climbs pretty much straight up—the hardest ascent along the whole Camino. Whenever we start feeling weary, we chant “Alto del Perdón, Alto del Perdón! Nothing is as hard as Alto del Perdón” in rhythm with our steps.

Eventually, we make it to the top where the views are spectacular. Both nearby and in the distance we see one of the many wind farms that take advantage of the strong breezes coming from the Atlantic Ocean and the Bay of Biscay.

Modern metal cut-outs describe the various methods that pilgrims used over the centuries to travel the Camino. One of the inscriptions reads, “where the road of the winds crosses the road of the stars.” 

Silhouette metal sculptures of pilgrims and animals on the summit of Alto del Perdón, Camino de Santiago, with a vast mountainous landscape in the background.
Cut-outs and view at the summit of the Alto del Perdón

Albergue de Santiago Apóstel in Puente la Reina

At our first albergue, we’re assigned two upper bunks (no ladders!) in a four-bunk room. After a hot shower, we enjoy a pilgrim’s dinner of salad, fish, water, and yogurt, all for just €20, including accommodation.

We’re gratified to have virtually no injuries or aches other than a couple of small blisters. I decide to alternate boots with shoes to avoid putting too much pressure on any one spot on my feet. 

The medieval Puente la Reina bridge in Navarre, Spain, reflecting perfectly on the calm waters of the river below.
Bridge leading into Puente la Reina

Day 2: Puente la Reina to Ayeguí: 20 kilometers

The next morning, the owner kindly calls ahead to book beds at the albergue in Ayeguí. He also confirms transportation of our packs for only €5 each. Normally, albergues do not take advance reservations. I wonder whether the fact that I speak Spanish helped!

The second day of walking the way is much easier than the first, even with a few strenuous uphill stretches. (Altos del Perdón, Altos del Perdón…). The countryside continues to amaze us with its many crops, flowers, and birdsong. Small lizards sun themselves on the stone walls that mark the route.

Lorca

We stop for coffee in Lorca, a medieval hill town with a wonderful view of the surrounding valley. The route out of Lorca drops very steeply down what is little more than a slippery, rocky gully. After a few more hours of walking, I feel a blister starting on my heel. We decide to take a taxi the rest of the way to Ayeguí.

I recommend making occasional use of taxis and public transport to save your feet. A small blister can become a large one very quickly and make walking agony.

Day 3: Ayeguí to Torres del Río: 27 kilometers

Our third day walking the way is a long one! We take a break in Irache, where a fountain with a dual spigot offers both water and wine. We fill our water bottles from one and take a sip from the other.

The sign on the fountain reads Pilgrim! If you wish to arrive in Santiago full of strength and vigour, just take a drop of this great wine and jump for joy. Another sign notes We invite you to enjoy in moderation; if you wish to take some wine along, you will have to buy it!

The Camino winds past numerous churches and historical buildings—too many to count and, unfortunately, too many to visit. Many are Romanesque in style, reminding us again of the extent of the Roman Empire at its height. 

Sometimes, we walk at the side of the local highway and at other times on gravel paths dating from ancient times. The Way between Villamayor de Monjardín and Los Arcos typifies the Camino.

It’s a long, narrow road stretching into the distance between open fields, with very little shade and no place to fill our water bottles. 

Los Arcos

Arriving in Los Arcos is a relief for our feet and our thirsty throats. It’s a beautiful old town that has been inhabited since Roman times. The Iglesia de Santa María has a mixture of architectural styles (Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque), and the series of arches along the walls of the original cloisters gives the town its name. 

Los Arcos is a popular stopping point, but we decide to continue another six kilometers to Torres del Río. Hmm…perhaps not the best idea, as it turns out! The weather has warmed considerably, and there’s not a breath of wind. We sing, make lists of places we’d like to go someday, and generally distract ourselves from the trudge. 

A Camino de Santiago marker featuring a yellow scallop shell and arrow, topped with a hiking shoe and wildflowers, set against a green field
Some of the markers along the Way have been decorated by passing pilgrims

Finally, we arrive at the delightful little town of Sansol and take a taxi to Albergue La Pata de Oca at Torres del Río. What a treat! The main building is hundreds of years old, with thick stone walls and solid beams in the ceilings, all covered with plaster.

Our private room is upstairs under the rafters. The ceiling slopes so much that we have to stoop to open the window. The patio is lovely, with lots of flower pots filled with bright red geraniums.

We enjoy a delicious dinner of bean and chorizo soup, chicken, flan, and wine. After a long, hot day, we collapse into bed about 9:15.

Day 4: Torres del Río to Ventosa: 4 kilometers

We decide to take it easy after yesterday’s long walk and opt for a later start and a shorter walk with a taxi ride in between.

While relaxing over breakfast on the terrace, we meet Ian from Ireland. He tells us that he’s a former addict who has been clean for 26 years and has adopted his nephews (one of whom is on the autism spectrum) after the death of their parents.

Encounters with people like Ian and others from all over the world and with a variety of backgrounds is one of the most enjoyable aspects of our journey.

Before starting our walk, we visit the Romanesque Church of the Holy Sepulchre across the street from the albergue. Dating from the 12th century, the small, octagon-shaped church was founded by the Knights Templar during the time of the Crusades.

The dome’s ribbing forms the outline of an eight-sided star, typical of Moorish Spain. The 13th-century crucifix depicts Christ’s feet separately rather than crossed one over the other as is typical.

Day 5: Logroño to Ventosa: 21 kilometers

We stop for lunch in Navarrete, an attractive hill town with narrow cobblestoned streets leading to the town plaza. A small church–La Iglesia de la Asunción–doesn’t look particularly special from the outside. We almost don’t go in. Luckily, we did and found one of the most amazing Baroque retablos (altarpieces) in all of Spain. 

Our albergue in the tiny village of Ventosa has a typical set-up, with ten bunks to the room, plenty of hot water and many modern conveniences. Again, our pilgrims’ meal is delicious and very reasonably priced. For €10, we dine on paella with chorizo along with salad and a beer.

Day 6: Ventosa to Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada: 5 kilometers

Cheri’s blister and ankle are acting up, so we take a taxi and then a local bus to Santo Domingo where we stop for the night.

A rooster motif is everywhere in Santo Domingo, reflecting the legend of how a young man had been wrongly accused and executed for theft.

One version recounts that his parents had seen a vision of St. Dominic holding their son up alive. When they rushed to the magistrate to report this miracle, the judge laughed and said that the boy was as dead as the rooster and chicken on his plate. At that, the birds came alive and fluttered about the room, thereby “proving” that the young man was innocent.

To this day, a pen inside the cathedral holds a rooster and a hen (different ones every two weeks). It’s a sign of good luck if you hear the rooster crow.

Day 7: Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado: 21 kilometers

On a day of mixed sun and cloud, we pass through the town of Viloria de Rioja, the birthplace of St. Dominic and from there into the province of Castilla y León. 

At the albergue in the evening, we enjoy our €10 pilgrims’ dinner of two courses and wine and chat with Marcelo from Argentina and David from San Sebastián. Our pleasant conversation covers everything from politics, to films, to the various people we’ve met on the Way, to our common love of travel and adventure.

Day 8: Belorado to Cardeñuelo Río Pico: 9 kilometers

We carry our big packs today and find that after more than a week of walking the way on the Camino, we’re getting stronger.

The Albergue Santa Fe in Cardiñuela where we stop for the night has just one double room left, complete with a private bath, towels, soap and shower gel, and a television. With the pilgrims’ dinner included, the cost is about €55 each—another example of the excellent travel bargains to be found on the Camino.

Day 9: Cardeñuela Río Pico to Burgos: 17 kilometers

A strong, cool breeze in the morning makes for good walking weather. As we approach Burgos, we pass through several prosperous-looking neighbourhoods which likely are bedroom communities of the city itself. 

The Camino enters Burgos via a pretty walk along the river. When we finally reach the center of town, we take a taxi to the AC Hotel which is perfectly situated about two blocks from the central plaza and the cathedral.

We enjoy tapas at one of the outdoor cafés in the colonnaded central plaza.

Part Two: Walking the Way from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela

Days 10 to 14: For the next several days, Elizabeth and Cheri tour Burgos and then León. Read Elizabeth’s suggestions about what to see there in the post Exploring Burgos and León.

Day 15: Samos to Sarria: 21 kilometers

After several days exploring Burgos, León , and Lugos (see Exploring Burgos and León ), we take the train to Sarria, drop off our packs at the albergue La Casona de Sarria and then take a taxi to Samos to explore the Benedictine Monastery.

Wow! The Benedictine monastery at Samos is stunning, with some sections dating back to the 6th century.

Currently, only eight monks and two novices are in residence, with some of the original monks’ cells now serving as simple accommodations for people participating in organized religious retreats.

Benedictine Monastery of San Julián de Samos in Galicia, Spain, surrounded by lush greenery and a reflective stream under a cloudy sky.
Benedictine monastery of San Julian de Samos located in Samos, Lugo, Galicia

The interior cloister at the monastery is the largest in Spain, and some of the walls display original frescoes.

Back on the Camino: Samos to Sarria

After a quick lunch, we resume walking after our days off for sightseeing in Burgos, León , and Lugo. We set off back to Sarria, a walk of about twelve kilometers and one of the most beautiful stages of our journey.

The route starts behind the monastery, winds past the kitchen gardens and along cool shaded paths alongside a small river, with some ascents and some descents but few signs of modern habitation. We pass a couple of 12th-century wayside chapels, small abandoned houses, wooden bridges, and old slate drystone walls.

You can almost imagine yourself a thousand miles from any center of population and thousands of years back in time.

One farmer is repairing his drystone slate wall and lets us fill our water bottles from his well. We stop a bit farther on for a cold drink in a typical taberna do Camino.

Day 16: Sarria to Portomarín: 24 kilometers

We start our day by crossing the old Roman bridge just down from the albergue. The stela marker informs us that we are 113 kilometers from Santiago.

At this point of our walk, we’re encountering many more people on the Camino, particularly Europeans taking a week to do the minimum journey (100 kilometers).

To receive the completion compostela in Santiago, pilgrims must present their passports bearing at least two stamps per day for the final 100 kilometers.

As we’ve come to expect, the countryside is absolutely beautiful, with rolling hills, manageable ascents, and plenty of lush vegetation providing shade in the increasingly hot weather.

This region is quite well watered by rain, and there are lots more dairy cattle and other livestock grazing in green pastures. 

Scenic view of the San Estevo water reservoir near Portomarín, Galicia, Spain, with a vibrant green valley, river, and rolling hills under a cloud-streaked sky.
Countryside along the Way in Galicia

At one short rest stop, we listen to a piper in Galician dress—a reminder of the strong Celtic influence in this part of Spain. Much of the day’s route follows the old Roman road, with some of the original Roman stone walls still marking out different pastures. 

A very old church marks the beginning of the final 100 kilometers to Santiago.  

Day 17: Portomarín to Palas de Rei: 26 kilometers

Today’s route includes ups and downs through rolling and beautiful countryside. We’re starting to become blasé about the medieval churches. Ho hum, 14th century.

We find a fair bit of traffic along the Camino and several small tour groups.

Part of the Camino passes through thick stands of eucalyptus trees, originally imported from Australia. The scent of the leaves that have fallen to the ground and crushed by passing feet is delightful. 

Day 18: Palas de Rei to Melide to Arzúa: 17 kilometers

Despite the heat, we enjoy a good night’s sleep followed by an excellent breakfast.

In a small chapel along the route, I’m fascinated by a poster of a stunning Madonna and Child (Mater Divinae Providentiae) painted by Scipione Pulzone da Gaeta in the mid-16th century.

I’ve never seen a Madonna which so tenderly expresses the love of mother for child. How different from the usual dreamy, remote images of Mary and the baby Jesus. This one is all about maternal love and one of the loveliest I’ve ever seen. I’ve never heard of this artist, and I plan to learn more about him.

The Camino from Melide to Arzúa is not a difficult stage, but it does have ascents and descents virtually the entire way. Fortunately, the many groves of fragrant conifers and eucalyptus trees along the path are very pleasant and make the steeper inclines much more manageable.

The official markers remind us that we’re getting closer to our final destination. 

Later this afternoon, I suffer the only mishap of the entire trip when I stumble into a patch of nettles. Ouch! But Cheri quickly pulls out the antihistamine tablets and After Bite lotion, and, almost immediately, the rash subsides and the itch disappears.

Day 19: Arzúa to Pedrouzo: 22 kilometers

Our water and energy drinks at the ready, we set off early before the heat sets in and make pretty good time, even on the up and down stretches. The crowds are certainly growing. 

At one stop, we purchase coffee, bananas, and small concha patches sold on the honor system/por donativo. Next to the building is a “wall of wisdom” (muro de la sabiduría) containing interesting quotes and reflections on travel.

I’m sure the quotes keep conversation going among the pilgrims as they near the end of a long journey. 

An interesting feature of the places we pass are the corn cribs—large covered storage areas on stilts. The walls are perforated to allow air circulation but not rodents, and their height prevents livestock from investigating too closely and knocking them over.

Day 20: Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela: 22 kilometers

Our last day of walking the Camino!

We’re up and away before sunrise on what promises to be another warm day. The crowds have become thick, and we sometimes have to jostle for room to manoeuvre around groups. 

Approaching Santiago de Compostela, the Camino skirts the northern end of the airport, which is clean and modern. We encounter a couple more steep spots, and then, suddenly, we’ve reached the official city limits of Santiago.

To enter the city proper, we cross a rickety plank footbridge into a semi-residential area and up into the original medieval town. We descend a flight of stairs, walk through a large portal set into very thick stone walls, and enter the central plaza of Santiago de Compostela.

The scaffold-covered cathedral looms into the rapidly clouding sky. We’ve made it!

We head to the new tourist center to get our official completion credential. There’s a long queue, and for a while we wait outside in the patio area.

Almost immediately after we enter the building, a big thunderstorm breaks, rain teeming down on the poor folks still out walking on the Camino or waiting outside to get their final stamp.

Arrival in Santiago de Compostela

We celebrate our achievement with an empanada and beer in the restaurant of the Santiago Parador—a former hospital founded by Ferdinand and Isabella in the 1490s.

We enjoy a deep, restful sleep, despite the thunderstorms. By mid-morning, the weather has cleared, and we return to the cathedral and tour the adjacent museum, timing it so that we can enter the cathedral itself from the cloister.

Visit to the Cathedral of Santiago

The entrance to the cathedral closes at 11:45 in preparation for the Pilgrims’ Mass, and by 11:15, it’s already filling up. We snag a spot on a small ledge at the base of one of the huge pillars near the back and have a reasonably good view. 

Facade of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, Spain, showing intricate Baroque architecture and two towering spires against a deep blue sky
The Cathedral at Santiago de Compostela

The service starts, and the nun leading the chants and responses has the most glorious voice. We recognize many of the service prayers, even though they are in Spanish: the collect, the Lord’s Prayer, the reading from the Old and New Testaments (Corinthians and John), the general confession, and so on.  

The highlight of the service, and the reason that many people are there, is the swinging of the enormous censer across the transept.

At least five or six deacons or lay brothers manoeuvre it into place and set it swinging, and the sweep of its pendulum action gets higher and higher. Ropes and pulleys are affixed to the ceiling, and the angle of the swing is maybe 120° or more. 

After the service, people line up behind the main altar to hug a plaster statue of St. James. Meanwhile, there are practically no people lined up to descend to the crypt to see St. James’ ossuary, an amazing chest of embossed silver.

If the bones of the saint are really contained within, it’s interesting to think that here was someone who actually knew Christ. 

Back at the hotel after a bit of shopping, we calculate the distance we’ve walked. From our first day of walking on May 6 to our final day in Santiago de Compostela on May 26, we logged 338 kilometers!

Conclusion

Would I do the Camino again? Absolutely! Do I recommend it to anyone who is reasonably fit and looking for an adventure? Of course!

Something magical happens when you slow down to tread in the footsteps of the thousands of pilgrims who have walked the Way.

You hear birdsong, feel the sun warm your face, view stunning landscapes steeped in history, enjoy wonderful food, and meet people from all over the world.

The Camino beckoned and I’m very glad I followed.

For more on the Camino, read Elizabeth’s recommendations in Top Tips for Walking the Camino to Santiago de Compostela. And for suggestions about what to see and do in beautiful Burgos and León, read Exploring Burgos and León along the Camino of Santiago.