Destinations

Carol Cram at Museum Ludwig with Cologne Cathedral in the background

Cologne’s Museum Ludwig: Best Bet for Modern Art Lovers

Arts & Culture, Destinations, Europe, Germany, Museums Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on Cologne’s Museum Ludwig: Best Bet for Modern Art Lovers

Last updated on October 9th, 2025 at 06:06 pm

If you’re looking for a modern art fix while traveling down the Rhine, make your way to Museum Ludwig in Cologne, Germany.

This museum of modern art close to Cologne Cathedral houses one of Europe’s most significant collections of modern and contemporary art.

The early 20th century collection at Museum Ludwig is particularly fabulous, with paintings and artists organized into movements—expressionism, cubism, abstraction, surrealism, and so on. You’ll find masterpieces by pretty much every big name in 20th century art including Picasso, Ernst, and Dali, along with some superb examples of German expressionism.

Also notable is how many of the artworks were created by women. In recent years, I’ve noticed many more women artists represented in major art galleries, something that was a rarity not so long ago.

At the Ludwig Museum, I discovered some old favorites and some new-to-me gems. Here’s a curated tour featuring some of the many pieces I admired.

Niki de Saint Phalle – Black Nana, 1968/69

You’re greeted in the foyer of Museum Ludwig by one of Niki de Saint Phalle’s voluptuously joyous figures from her Nana series. Nana’s exuberant curves and playful patterns feel like art giving you a high-five.

Note: Niki de Saint Phalle’s work is being featured a lot these days. In 2025, I saw two special exhibitions of her work—one in Quebec City and the other at the Caumont in Aix-en-Provence. If you’re headed to Italy, check out Giardino Tarocchi (Tarot Garden) near Grossetto about 2 hours north or Rome.

Black Nana sculpture by Niki de Saint Phalle at Museum Ludwig in Cologne, Germany

Natalia Gontscharowa – Rusalka (Water Nymph), 1980

The work of Natalia Gontscharowa is new to me and wow! She was one of the leading figures in the Russian avant-garde, living in Russia until 1921 when she moved to Paris. She also became a member of Der Blaue Reiter group in Germany.

This wonderful nude is a rebellious take on Slavic folklore. The woman looks straight at us, uncowed and strong.

Water Nymph by Natalia Gontscharowa at Museum Ludwig in Cologne, Germany

Sonia Delaunay-Terk – Colour Rhythm, 1968

Sonia Delaunay-Terk turns geometry into a dance with this presentation of colourful circles and rectangles. The abstract energy in her work makes me smile.

Colour Rhythm by Sonia Delaunay-Terk at Museum Ludwig in Cologne, Germany

Ursula -The Trees, 1985

Several works by Ursula are featured in one of the rooms at Museum Ludwig.

A self-taught artist, Ursula resists categorization into a particular style. Her work is based on observations of everyday life and on stories or myths, and reflects her own emotional states. Describing her work, Ursula wrote: “I impose my visions on reality—I’m completely artificial.”

All the works in the room are strangely compelling, some even fantastical. I particularly liked The Trees for the way it depicts strange, cactus-like foliage and how she uses contrasting colours.

The Trees by Ursula at Museum Ludwig in Cologne, Germany

Francis Picabia – The Bride, 1929

I’m pretty new to the work of Picabia, but I’m liking what I see. He was a French avant-garde painter, writer, filmmaker, publisher, and poet, and was closely associated with the Dada movement.

His work has been described as “shape-shifting” or “kaleidoscopic”, both elements I clearly see in The Bride. The more you look at it, the more you see new shapes that seem to morph and shift before your eyes.

The Bride by Francis Picabia at Museum Ludwig in Cologne, Germany

Paul Klee – Highway and Byways, 1929

I’m a big Paul Klee fan and this piece is a beauty. Check out how the linear paths trace both detours and destinations. The piece is like a poetic map of introspection. There is much detail to fixate on.

Highway and Byways by Paul Klee at Museum Ludwig in Cologne, Germany

On my artsy traveler list of museums to visit in Europe is Zentrum Paul Klee in Bern, Switzerland.

Piet Mondrian – Painting II, 1921

No serious collection of 20th century art would be complete without one of Mondrian’s iconic minimalist abstracts. His work is still the very definition of modernism.

Paiting II by Piet Mondrian at Museum Ludwig in Cologne, Germany

René Magritte – The Giantess, 1929-1931

I’d not seen this Magritte before, although Gregg (husband and also visual artist) tells me it a very famous one.

The giantess is so perfectly giant in the way she effortlessly dominates the room, with the tiny man in the corner looking lost. What an imagination Magritte had!

The Giantess by Rene Magritte at Museum Ludwig in Cologne, Germany

Richard Oelze – Growing Silence, 1961

There’s so much to look at in this painting, which combines elements of both the ancient and the modern.

I see echoes of Bosch in the weird figures and the tones Oelze uses, but also of Max Ernst, one of my favorite surrealists.

Known as the forgotten German surrealist, Oelze’s work is gaining more recognition in recent years with his inclusion in several major surrealist exhibitions.

Growing Silence by Richard Oelze at Museum Ludwig in Cologne, Germany

Max Ernst – Song of the Cicadas to the Moon, 1954

Museum Ludwig includes several excellent paintings by Max Ernst in its collection. I like this one because it’s an example of his use of decalcomania and frottage to create the complex and detailed patterns that swirl through the green and blue foreground.

Song of the cicadas to the Moon by Max Ernst at Museum Ludwig in Cologne, Germany

Fernand Léger – ThePicnic, 1954

Léger’s the master when it comes to creating paintings that are both whimsical and bold. His work is so marvelously distinctive.

This piece uses a greater variety of colours than I’ve been used to seeing in his work. I’m loving his weird trees!

The Picnic by Fernand Leger at Museum Ludwig in Cologne, Germany

Ljubow Popowa – Portrait of a Woman, 1915

Ljubow Popowa is another new-to-me avant-garde artist from Russia. She was one of the first pioneers of cubo-futurism in a style she called painterly architectonics, which I think perfectly describes this work.

Portrait of a woman by Ljubow Popowa at Museum Ludwig in Cologne, Germany

André Derain – View of Saint‑Paul‑de‑Vence, 1910

Derain’s fauvist palette energizes this view of the charming village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence in the south of France.

View of Saint-Paul-de-Vence by Andre Derain at Museum Ludwig in Cologne, Germany

August Macke – Lady in a Green Jacket, 1913

It’s Macke’s use of vivid colour that is so compelling in this lovely painting. I find it both calm and exciting at the same time.

Lady in a Green Jacket by August Macke at Museum Ludwig in Cologne, Germany

David Hockney – Sunbather, 1966

I’m a big fan of the work of David Hockney, particularly his later landscapes. This painting from the 1960s is emblematic of his earlier style, and feels very nostalgic.

The Sunbather by David Hockney at Museum Ludwig in Cologne, Germany

Gerhard Richter – War (Abstract No.  484), 1981

This vibrant abstract by Gerhard Richter practically jumped off the wall. I was drawn to it immediately.

War (Abstract No. 484) by Gerhard Richter at Museum Ludwig in Cologne, Germany

Willem de Kooning – Untitled VII, 1984

The fierce, gestural strokes captures so much movements with a colour palette and spaciousness that I don’t associate with de Kooning, but that I really like.

Untitled VII by Willem de Kooning at Museum Ludwig in Cologne, Germany

More Collections

On the bottom floor of the building are several rooms housing the latest exhibitions of contemporary art. I made a quick tour through, but this time didn’t see anything that intrigued me.

Museum Ludwig also has some lovely rooms full of sculptures, and the museum itself feels light and airy. Don’t miss stepping out on the terrace to view Cologne Cathedral where the picture at the top of this post was taken.

Interior of Museum Ludwig, a modern art museum in Cologne, Germany

Practical Information

  • Location: Right next to the Cologne Cathedral—easy to find and impossible to miss.
  • What to expect: A sprawling, dynamic museum featuring an extensive collection of works in most 20th century styles, including expressionism, surrealism, cubism, and abstraction, with a good representation of female artists.
  • Tip: Go slow. This collection rewards time—each canvas is its own story.
  • Hours: Tuesday – Sunday (including public holidays): 10 am – 6 pm and opening from 10 am to 10 pm on every 1st Thursday. The museum is closed on Mondays.
  • Ticket price:  € 11,00.

Visiting the City of Cologne

Cologne makes a great home base for exploring the region. Check out the massive Cologne Cathedral and then take a stroll along the Rhine. Consider staying at one of the hotels overlooking the river.

Hotels along the Rhine River in Cologne

Another excellent museum that I’ve visited in Cologne is the Romano-Germanic Museum, which is next door to the Ludwig Museum. At present, the museum is closed for renovations, so the collection is on display at Belgian House at Cäcilienstraße 46 (near Neumarkt).

While staying in Cologne, you can also take a train south to Bonn to tour the Beethoven-Haus museum.

Here are some other activities on GetYourGuide:

Staying in Cologne

Choose one of the hotels facing the Rhine River and close to the major sites including Museum Ludwig and Cologne Cathedral.

Here are some options:

Conclusion

I’d rank Museum Ludwig right up there with the top modern art museums in Europe including the Tate Modern in London and the Pompidou in Paris. Have you visited? Share your recommendations for other artsy travelers in the comments below.

Here are some more posts about art museums in Europe:

Choose Murano For a Unique Venetian Experience

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Last updated on October 13th, 2025 at 04:31 am

The laid-back island of Murano is the perfect getaway if you’re pining for a relaxing day or two away from the seething masses clogging the narrow streets of Venice.

I’ve stayed in Venice several times over the years and with every trip, the crowds and the prices increase. It’s all becoming just a bit much.

So, if you’re visiting Venice for several days, consider spending at least one or two nights on Murano. Or, if you’ve visited Venice before, why not bypass its expensive hotels and rip-off restaurants altogether and stay only on Murano?

You can easily zip into Venice for a stroll and a visit to some of the major sites.

Day Trip Instead?

Yes, you can go to Murano a day trip, but you’ll find the center of Murano crowded during the day with people browsing the numerous glass shops. When you stay the night, you’ll have the streets all to yourself in the evening and morning.

Tranquil canal in Murano at sunset

What I Did

On my latest trip to Venice, I stayed for two nights and one full day on Murano. I took the vaporetto into Venice for the afternoon and evening of the first night.

I highly recommend the experience!

Getting to Murano from the Airport

Murano is one of the easiest Venetian islands to reach directly from Venice Marco Polo Airport. After deplaning, take what feels like an endless number of moving sidewalks to the dock (just follow the signs).

From there, buy a ticket from one of the machines and then hop on the Alilaguna Blue Line waterbus. In about 30–35 minutes, you’ll be stepping off at Colosseo, one of the waterbus stops on Murano.

Where to Stay

I stayed at the Hyatt Centric Murano Venice, and it was an excellent choice. Located on the waterfront at the Museo vaporetto stop, the Hyatt Centric combines modern comfort with easy access to the rest of the island.

Another plus? The hotel offers a shuttle boat to and from Marco Polo Airport for a reasonable price (much cheaper than a water taxi). Contact the hotel a few days before your stay to reserve your spot on one of their scheduled runs.

My Experience: Because our flight into Venice was to arrive three hours before the first available shuttle time, we took the Alilaguna Blue Line water bus to the Colosseo stop on Murano. The Murano Hyatt Centric is located opposite the Museo stop, a good twenty minutes walk along cobbled streets (not great for dragging suitcases!).

On the way back to the airport, we wisely took the shuttle, which picked us up at the dock in front of the hotel and zoomed us across the lagoon, spray flying. An exhilarating experience!

View from the stern of a water taxi whizzing across the lagoon in venice

Here are some other options for staying on Murano:

Evening in Venice

After settling into your hotel on Murano, hop on Vaporetto Line 4.1 or 4.2, and in about 15 minutes you’ll be at Fondamente Nove, ready to wander the city in the golden twilight.

Evenings in Venice are magical. The streets are much less crowded with all the day-trippers gone back to their cruise ships. Stroll through quiet campos, linger over cicchetti (Venetian tapas) in a bacaro, and then enjoy a romantic dinner alongside a canal.

Here are some pictures I snapped of our early evening stroll through Venice.

Venice Bell tower and Piazza Sna Macro in Venice
Tranquil side canal in Venice
Closeup of bridge and tranquil canal in Venice
View of the facade of the Duomo in Venice
The lagoon in Venice with gondolas

Returning to Murano from Venice

Catch Vaporetto Line 4.1 or 4.2 from Fondamente Nove for the return trip. You’ll pass by Isola di San Michele that contains Venice’s principal cemetery glowing eerily in the setting sun. Several famous people are buried there, including composer Igor Stravinsky and poet Ezra Pound.

View of Isola di San Michele in the venice lagoon at sunset

Full Day on Murano

We opted to spend the entire day on Murano rather than going back into Venice. Good choice! I thoroughly enjoyed the opportunity to soak up Murano’s more tranquil, small-town rhythm, and explore some out-of-the-way areas where the only sounds were the wind in the trees and the sound of the cicadas.

Morning: Glass-Blowing Demonstration

I suggest attending a glass-blowing demonstration as soon as one of the many furnaces offering them opens. You’ll beat the crowds and get a great view of a master glassmaker work his magic with molten globs of glass.

Here are some options with GetYourGuide.

At the end of the short demo, you’ll be directed into the shop where you can admire some incredible pieces that would cost a fortune to ship home, and probably purchase some items that you can take with you. I picked up two necklaces!

Man doing a glass blowing demonstration at a furnace in Murano

More Shopping for Glass

Murano is full of glass shops—both those attached to furnaces offering demos and the many shops lining the two principal canals. You can’t miss them!

Avoid the “five-for-€10” trinket stands that sell imported, not genuine Murano glass.

Good choices are Venini for contemporary art glass, Wave Murano Glass for bold and colorful designs, and NasonMoretti for sleek tableware. Even if you’re not in the market for a chandelier, you’ll leave with a deeper appreciation for the craftsmanship.

Elegant, large glass flamingos at a shop in Murano
Colorful glass vases at a glass shop in Murano

Lunch Next to the Canal

Stop for lunch at Osteria al Duomo, tucked just behind Murano’s main street. Their seafood pasta is fresh and flavorful, and the garden seating is a leafy oasis in warm weather.

Afternoon: Explore the Island

Spend the afternoon wandering Murano’s quieter backstreets. Peek into the Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato, famous for its Byzantine mosaics and the curious row of dragon bones hanging behind the altar.

Visit Murano Glass Museum

Make sure you allow time to visit the Murano Glass Museum (Museo del Vetro) to learn more about the island’s glass-making history and see exquisite historical pieces.

After entering the museum (a former palace), check out the tranquil gardens and then watch a film about glass making. A wide variety of techniques are described and demonstrated. I was riveted!

After the film, check out the archaeological section on the ground floor that contains Roman works dating from the 1st to the 3rd century AD. Then, mount the stairs to the first floor to view the largest historical collection of Murano glass in the world.

glass chandelier hanging from elaborately painting ceiling in a palazzo housing the glass Museum on Murano
Selection of glass objects from Roman times displayed at the glass museum in Muranbo

Take a Walk

Murano is small—you can walk across it in about 20 minutes. Take your time and veer off the main canals to explore areas where only locals go.

I walked to the far end of the island to find quiet canals, abundant greenery and a handful of local people working on their boats.

Tranquil sidew canal in Murano with just a few boats and no people and plenty of trees

Evening: Dinner on Murano

For dinner, try B Restaurant alla Vecchia Pescheria, a cozy spot right on the canal with excellent Venetian classics and a good wine list.

Afterward, stroll alongside the lagoon to enjoy a spectacular sunset (weather permitting).

Beautiful sunset seen from the island of Murano in the Venetian lagoon

An Art Opening on Murano

One of the reasons I stayed on Murano during my most recent trip to Venice was that I was attending an art opening that featured Gregg Simpson’s work. (Gregg’s my husband and a visual artist; we often travel to his exhibitions).

The opening was at the municipal museum which featured Gregg’s work in addition to displays about the history of Murano. Housed in the Palazzo da Mula, entrance is free and well worth a quick look both to view whatever art exhibitions are on and to see the history displays.

Palazzo Mula in Venice

Murano: Two Nights & One Full Day – At a Glance

Arrival & Evening in Venice

  • From the airport: Take the Alilaguna Blue Line waterbus (30–35 min) straight to Murano.
  • Check in: Hyatt Centric Murano Venice – spacious rooms, canal views, and airport shuttles.
  • Evening: Vaporetto to Venice for cicchetti, a relaxed dinner, and post-sunset strolling. Return to Murano under the stars.

Full Day on Murano

  • Morning: Glass-blowing demo at a local furnace – arrive early before tour groups.
  • Shopping: Skip the cheap imports; head for Venini, Wave Murano Glass, or NasonMoretti for authentic art glass.
  • Lunch: Osteria al Duomo – seafood pasta in a shady garden.
  • Afternoon:
    • Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato – Byzantine mosaics & “dragon bones”
    • Murano Glass Museum – centuries of glass history
    • Stroll the Fondamenta dei Vetrai and back alleys.
  • Evening: Dinner at B Restaurant alla Vecchia Pescheria, canal-side with Venetian classics.

Departure

  • Enjoy a peaceful early-morning walk along the canals before catching your vaporetto or water taxi back to Venice or the airport.

Top Tips for Visiting Murano

  • Buy wisely: Look for the “Vetro Artistico® Murano” certification sticker to ensure authenticity.
  • Ship it: If buying a larger piece, most reputable shops will pack and ship it securely—worth the cost to avoid heartbreak in your suitcase.
  • Timing is everything: Stay overnight to enjoy Murano’s peaceful mornings and evenings, when the day-trippers are gone.
  • Hydrate & shade: Glass furnaces get hot—visit in the morning and bring water.
  • Ask questions: Artisans love to explain their techniques; showing interest can lead to extra demos or discounts.

Conclusion

By staying overnight, you experience Murano at its best—quiet mornings when you’re the only person strolling along the canals, evenings when the water reflects only the soft glow of lamplight, and a sense of living within a working Venetian island rather than visiting a stage set. You still get easy access to Venice, but you also enjoy space, calm, and the unique character of Murano itself.

A couple of nights here is a tonic after the chaos of Venice—and who knows, you might even leave with a carefully wrapped piece of glass art that will forever remind you of your time on the island.

Have you stayed on Murano? Share you recommendations for other artsy travelers in the comments below.

Here are some more posts about off-the-beaten-track destinations in Europe:

How to Spend Two Nights & One Day in Luxembourg City

Europe, Destinations Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on How to Spend Two Nights & One Day in Luxembourg City

Last updated on October 13th, 2025 at 04:31 am

Luxembourg City makes a great choice for a laid-back two-night stay. While it may be short on blockbuster sights, it’s long on understated charm.

I didn’t feel the pressure to do Luxembourg the way I might Amsterdam or Rome to Paris. Instead, I could just hang out, explore, and soak up the relaxed, Luxembourgish vibe.

Yes—Luxembourgish is a real language! It’s one of Luxembourg’s three official languages, along with French and German.

Locals use the term “Luxembourg” to refer to both the capital (Luxembourg City) and the country itself—the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, the world’s only remaining grand duchy. In this post, I focus on the city, but if you have time, venture further into this small, history-steeped nation.

At a Glance

Map of Sightseeing Options in Luxembourg City

How Long to Stay in Luxembourg?

My visit included two nights and one full day, which felt just right. You can do Luxembourg on a day trip from Belgium or Germany, but I recommend staying at least one night to enjoy its quiet elegance and gorgeous architecture.

Where to Stay in Luxembourg City

I stayed at Pétrusse Élite Suites (#1 on the map), a small aparthotel tucked away on a side street in the embassy district—a pleasant 15-minute walk to the city center.

It turned out to be an excellent choice. The neighborhood was blissfully tourist-free, with convenient parking at Parking Martyrs (#2). Our suite was clean, modern, spacious, and quiet.

A unique touch: the elevator opened directly into our suite! Each floor houses one suite, and we were given an elevator key for direct access. Very James Bond.

While you could stay closer to the center in a large hotel, you’ll pay for the privilege. Even Pétrusse Élite Suites was around €200 per night. However, it included a small kitchen, and there was a shared lounge and full kitchen on the ground floor.

Here are some other options for staying in Luxembourg City:

Strolling into Town: Architecture and Bridges

After settling into our comfy digs, we walked toward the old town via the Adolphe Bridge (#3), also known as the New Bridge (built in 1903). It spans the lush Pétrusse Valley, while the Old Bridge (called La Passerelle and built in 1859 – #4) runs parallel to it.

Adolphe Bridge in Luxembourg city

From both bridges, you might glimpse the Pétrusse Creek which flows into the Alzette River winding picturesquely through the Grund, one of the most photogenic areas in the city.

Despite their relative youth (by European standards), both bridges are lovely examples of late 19th-century/early 20th-century engineering and design.

Free Public Transport

One of Luxembourg’s delights? All public transportation is free—busses, trams, and even trains within the country.

This makes it easy to use Luxembourg City as a home base for exploring the rest of the country without needing a car.

One of many electric busses in Luxembourg city. Busses are brightly painted and are free.

Exploring the Ville Haute (Upper Town)

Luxembourg’s Ville Haute (#5) is full of pedestrianized streets, wide plazas, fountains, and outdoor cafés. We strolled as far as Place d’Armes (#15), people-watched, and enjoyed the relaxed energy.

With the day winding down and with us recovering after a tiring car ride from Cologne about three hours to the north, we found a sidewalk café. As we’ve learned to do over many trips to Europe, we ordered an appetizer and main course to “partager”. Almost always that’s enough food for us, particularly if followed either by a dessert at the restaurant or a gelato while strolling back to our hotel.

After dinner, we descended below the road to walk a while in the valley. Sylvan paths beckoned in the twilight and we were alone apart from a few locals also out strolling or jogging. So far, we’d barely seen anyone who looks like a tourist.

Petrusse valley pathway in Luxembourg City - a very beautiful area to walk in below the upper town.

Suggested One-Day Itinerary in Luxembourg City

If you are spending two nights in Luxembourg City with one full day for sightseeing, here’s how I recommend spending your day:

Morning

  • Option 1: Tour the Casemates—underground fortifications dating to the 1600s (UNESCO site).
  • Option 2: Visit a museum like MUDAM (contemporary art) or MNAHA (national art & history).

Lunch

  • Bazaar Bar and Restaurant (#6) on Place Guillaume (#7) for excellent Lebanese cuisine. If you’re lucky, you’ll get Jean-Paul as your server. He was friendly and let us stumble along in French, only helping out when we faltered.

Afternoon

  • Take a guided walking tour of the city.

Evening:

  • Descend to the Grund via the free public elevator, enjoy the views, then return to Upper Town for dinner.
  • Try to get a table at Café-Restaurant Um Dierfgen (#21) for authentic Luxembourgish cuisine (reserve in advance!).

My (Less-Than-Ideal) Morning

Full disclosure: I didn’t get to the casemates or museums. I spent the morning tracking down a new laptop charger after leaving mine in Cologne (thank you, MediaMarkt near Luxembourg Station (#8).

Fortunately, the friendly English-speaking staff helped me out. Assuming you’re not in need of emergency electronics, here’s what you should do.

The Casemates

The Bock Casemates (#9) and Pétrusse Casemates (#10) are an essential part of Luxembourg’s military history and a major draw for history buffs. Originally carved in the 17th century by the Spanish, the tunnels helped earn Luxembourg the nickname “Gibraltar of the North.”

  • Bock Casemates offer spectacular views over the Grund.
  • Entrance: €8 (adults) / €4 (children, students)
  • Hours: Daily from 10 AM to 5 PM, April through November
View of tunnels in the Casemates of Luxembourg. The tunnels are part of fortifications built 400 years ago.

MUDAM: Contemporary Art in a Stunning Building

Designed by famed architect I. M. Pei (who designed the Louvre pyramid), The Musée d’Art Moderne Grand-Duc Jean (MUDAM – #11) features a variety of contemporary art exhibitions.

As if often the case with contemporary art museums, the building is just as interesting (sometimes more so) as the exhibitions. If you enjoy contemporary art, put MUDAM on your list.

  • Hours: Tuesday–Sunday, 10 AM–6 PM (open until 9 PM on Wednesday)
  • Located on the Kirchberg Plateau, easily reached by tram or bus.
View of MUDAM in Luxembourg, the modern art museum designed by architect I. M. Pei

MNAHA: National Museum of History and Art

Located in the old town, MNAHA (#12) displays works and artefacts from all epochs of Luxembourg history. You’ll find a mosaic from the Roman villa at Vichten dating back to 240 AD, a fine collection of objects from medieval Luxembourg, Art Deco items from the porcelain manufacturer Villeroy & Boch, and lots more.

Also nearby:

  • Luxembourg City History Museum (#12)
  • Natural History Museum (in the Grund – #13)

Walking Tour Highlights

I joined a two-hour walking tour starting at the statue of Guillaume II in Place Guillaume (#7). Gregg stayed in the hotel doing what he loves to do best, which is drawing, since he’s a visual artist. He doesn’t do walking tours!

Our small group was multi-lingual, and the guide delivered each stop in English and German.

Some Luxembourg Facts

The guide provided us with many stories related to Luxembourg’s long history and traditions. We learned that Luxembourg is one of the capitals of the European Union, together with Strasbourg and Brussels,m and that several EU are based here, including the Secretariat of the European Parliament and the Court of Justice of the European Union.

Fun fact: Only 30% of Luxembourg’s population are native Luxembourgers. The rest hail from all over the world—reflected in the multicultural streets, restaurants, and languages heard everywhere.

Notre-Dame de Luxembourg

We ducked into Notre-Dame de Luxembourg (#16), a pleasingly well-proportioned cathedral built in 1603 in the late Gothic style.

Columns and stained glass in the interior of the Notre Dame Cathedral in Luxembourg

Grand Ducal Palace

We then entered the old town and walked past the Grand Ducal Palace (#17). The guide showed us pictures of the current Grand Duke and his family and told us that on October 2, the Grand Duke will abdicate in favor of his eldest son. 

Exterior of the grand ducal palace in Luxembourg

Pope Francis Anecdote

While walking past a café, she related the charming story of when Pope Francis visited Luxembourg several years ago. While progressing down the narrow street in his pope mobile with his entourage and body guards, Pope Francis apparently asked to stop so he could get an estrpesso at the café. Inside, he found a young couple, the woman pregnant with her first child. Being the pope, he blessed the unborn child and a few months later the Luxembourg papers were full of news about the birth of their son. No prizes for guessing that they named him!

Chemin de la Corniche

From the ducal palace, we emerged onto the famous Chemin de la Corniche (#18) and enjoyed panoramic views of Luxembourg with the Grund district below and the skyscrapers of modern Luxembourg in the distance. 

View of the Grund from the Chemin de la corniche in Luxembourg
View of the Grund from the Chemin de la corniche in Luxembourg
View of the Grund from the Chemin de la corniche in Luxembourg

Here was where I encountered tour groups for the first time in the 24 hours since coming to Luxembourg. I’m wondering if tour busses sweep in, park, take the walk along the corniche to admire the view, and then sweep out again. I didn’t see any tour groups anywhere else!

No matter. I snapped photos along with everyone else and learned about the history of the Grund. Back in the day, the houses bordering the river in the deep valley were home to artisans and were considered a very poor area. Now, apartments in the Grund are epensive and the area is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

I was relieved when the guide informed us that the easiest way to get down to the Grund was to take the free elevator. Otherwise, it is a steep walk down—and back up.

Sampling Madelaines

At the end of the tour, the guide took us to a small pastry shop called Alegria (#19), where we were each given a fresh-baked madeleine. Perfectly crunchy on the outside and soft and chewy inside, the madeleines were baked under the supervision of Carole Lesquer, a famous chef who retired and opened the patisserie shop in her native Luxembourg.

Visiting the Grund

Later in the day, Gregg and I returned to the Grund (#20)—this time taking the scenic Old Bridge and the elevator down.

We walked along the Alzette River, admiring the medieval architecture and quiet vibe. There aren’t many restaurants, but you’ll find a few bars, pizzerias, and one Michelin-starred spot (beyond our budget).

We came in the late afternoon, and the golden light made for gorgeous photos. Highly recommend timing your visit for sunset.

Scenic view of the river running through the Grund region in Luxembourg

Final Impressions of Luxembourg City

Luxembourg is clean, well-ordered, and architecturally lovely—a mix of French and German traditions, but with its own unique flair.

It reminded me a bit of Genovia from The Princess Diaries—a tiny, wealthy kingdom with immaculate streets, designer shops, and fairy-tale charm.

But it’s not all polished perfection. I was panhandled multiple times in just 24 hours—unusual for Western Europe.

Still, it’s a lovely place to spend a couple of nights, especially if you’re looking for something quieter and less touristed than major European capitals. Here are some other tours to consider with GetYourGuide:

Conclusion

Have you visited Luxembourg City? Share your recommendations for other artsy travelers in the comments below.

Here are some other posts about European destinations such as Luxembourg that are not thronged with tourists.

Carol cram next to a bust of Ludgwig Van Beethoven at Beathoven House Museum in Bonn

Best Tips for Visiting Beethoven House in Bonn

Arts & Culture, Destinations, Europe, Germany, Museums Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on Best Tips for Visiting Beethoven House in Bonn

Last updated on October 13th, 2025 at 04:38 am

Beethoven House Museum (known as Beethoven-Haus) in Bonn, Germany, is the place for fans of classical music (like me!) The museum is housed in the birthplace of Ludwig van Beethoven.

As one of the most popular museums in Germany, Beethoven House (Beethoven-Haus) provides music-lovers with three three floors of displays in one of the few remaining Baroque townhouses in Bonn.

While staying in Cologne, I did a day trip to Bonn, where I visited Beethoven’s birthplace, strolled through the car-free center of Bonn, and enjoyed a walk alongside the Rhine River to admire the passing boats. If you have time, you can even take a boat tour down the Rhine.

At a Glance

  • Taking a boat tour from Bonn to Konigswinter
  • Exploring Beethoven-Haus Museum and communing with Beethoven
  • Strolling along the Rhine on the wide promenade
  • Discovering the old town of Bonn
  • Staying in Cologne at a hotel overlooking the Rhine

Getting to Bonn

I advise staying in Cologne, where there is lots to do, and then taking the train or the metro to Bonn. The trip takes about 30 minutes on the train and 50 minutes by metro, depending on where in Cologne you are staying.

I took the train from Cologne to Bonn and then the metro back. The metro is about 1/4 the price of the train, and not that much slower. Also, the train, which I took from the Koln Sud station (but you could also catch from the main station in Cologne) was extremely crowded with no place to sit.

By contrast, the ride on the metro was very poeasant, with quite a bit of the journey skirting the Rhine with beautiful views.

A few years ago, I drove to Bonn and ended up in a major traffic jam, and then couldn’t find a parking lot with space. I had to reluctantly abandon my plan to visit Beethoven-Haus on that trip.. The train is your safest bet.

Once in Bonn, stroll from the train station down to the Rhine to enjoy the view and maybe stop for a drink at one of the riverside cafes. Here’s the view of boats playing the Rhine that we enjoyed while sipping a ginger lemonade:

cafe in bonn overlooking the rhine

From the Rhine, walk back into the main part of Bonn and head for Beethoven-Haus at Bonngasse 20 (und 24-26).

Selection of Red directional signs in a pedestrian area of Bonn, Germany. One sign points to Beethoven-=Haus

Starting Your Visit at Beethoven-Haus in Bonn

Across the street from the house where Beethoven was born is a building housing the gift shop and ticket office. Go there first to buy your tickets.

If you’ve already bought them online (recommended), verify that you’re entering at the right time and date.

TIP: The museum is small, so to avoid disappointment, buy your tickets in advance for a specific time slot.

In the gift shop is a massive seated figure representing Beethoven at work. Like legions of Beethoven lovers before me, I had my picture taken standing next to him.

Carol Cram next to a larger than lifesize seated statue of Ludwig Van Beethoven in the gift shop at the Beethoven Museum in Bonn, Germany

I then crossed the street to the house in which Beethoven was born on December 17th (or possibly December 16th) in 1770, and spent the first three years of his life. 

Get the AudioGuide

At the entrance to Beethoven Haus, the attendant handed me a sheet with a QR code to scan to download the audio guide. While you can enjoy the displays spread across three floors without the audioguide, it does provide you with more in depth information about what you’re looking at.

The first thing you’ll learn by listening to the audioguide is that the house is the only one of the houses in Bonn in which the Beethoven family lived that has survived.

When the house was for sale in 1889, a group of wealthy businessmen purchased it and established the Beethoven House Association that to this day manages the site.

Touring Beethoven-Haus

Ground Floor

The first room you enter on the ground floor contains several of the many portraits and sculptures done of Beethoven during his lifetime. The most famous portrait of the great composer is by Joseph Stieler. It’s highly romanticized and idealized, and the only portrait showing Beethoven at work.

Famous portrait of Ludwig van Beethoven by Joseph Stieler showing the Maestro towards the end of his career. He is holding a pen as if he is about to compose.

At the back of the house on the ground floor are displays from Beethoven’s childhood including the record of his christening. Historians don’t know if he was born on December 16th or 17th, only that he was christened on December 17th.

One of the displays is Beethoven’s viola, which he started playing at the age of 19 when he became a court musician. Up until that time, he was most known as a pianist, performing in his first public concert when he was just seven years old.

Viola in a case--the one Bewethoven played as a young man and exhibited at the Beethoven-Haus Museum in Bonn, Germany

First Floor

Climb the narrow staircase to the first floor where you’ll find displays about Beethoven’s life and work. I was intrigued by the receipt from Beethoven’s publisher that records payment for five works, including the Fifth Symphony.

Beethoven made a lot of his money selling the rights to publish his pieces in countries all over Europe.

I was also surprised to see his eyeglasses and learn that Beethoven was short-sighted. None of the portraits showed him wearing glasses.

Also on this floor are displays related to some of Beethoven’s friends, mostly in Vienna where he lived after leaving Bonn as a young man.

Second Floor

This was my favorite floor because it focused primarily on Beethoven and his work. Included is one of his pianos along with many of his manuscripts written in his characteristically illegible scrawl.

I couldn’t begin to decipher the notes and marveled at the patience of the publishers who managed to do in order to produce the music I’ve been playing since I was about twelve and could manage an octave!

A piano featured at the Beethoven-Haus museum in Bonn, Germany

The floor also includes displays related to Beethoven’s tragic hearing loss beginning in his early thirties when he was at the height of his fame. The display of ear trumpets is particularly poignant as is this replica of Beethoven’s death mask.

Death mas of Beethoven exhibited at the Beethoven-Haus museum in Bonn, Germany

And finally, I was pleased to see a reproduction of a painting depicting Beethoven’s funeral on March 27, 1826. Between 10,000 and 30,000 people turned turned out to watch Beethoven’s casket pass by. Beethoven was very famous and a good chunk of Vienna wanted to pay tribute to the maestro.

My second novel, A Woman of Note, about a female composer in 1830s Vienna, opens with a description of Beethoven’s funeral. I looked at this painting many times during my research to get a sense of what the procession may have looked like.

Painting of the funeral of Beethoven in Vienna on March 27, 1826.

Courtyard

After touring the house, go back downstairs and out into the tranquil courtyard. If you’re lucky, as I was, you’ll find it deserted. Snap a picture of yourself with a bust of Beethoven and then settle onto a bench to enjoy the quiet.

Courtyard of hte Beethoven-Haus in bonn, Germany

Music Room at the Beethoven-Haus

To finish your visit, make sure you enter the adjacent building. Here, you can sit and enjoy a performance of the Moonlight Sonata. The manuscript that Beethoven wrote—with all its spikes and crossings-out—is projected onto the wall and a light follows the notes as they are played.

I’ve played this sonata many times and so was thrilled to hear it played while looking at the actual notes that Beethoven wrote.

Gift Shop

After communing with the maestro in his house and listening to The Moonlight Sonata, your very last stop is, naturally, the gift shop. Here, you’ll find plenty of Beethoven-themed schlock that is perfect for the Beethoven lover in your life.

I resisted everything only to be seduced by the tackiest item in the shop—a Beethoven duckie. He sits on my desk as I write. His quill is poised, his hair wild and his orange beak opened  just a touch as if ready to tell you all about his latest masterpiece.

Plastic ruber duckie representing Bewethoven with wild white hair and holding a quill and a pad of paper

Practical Information

The Beethoven-Haus (Bonngasse 20 and 24-26) is situated on the edge of the pedestrian zone within easy walking distance of the main station.

Opening hours are Wednesday to Monday from 10 am to 6 pm (open only to pre-booked groups on Tuesdays). Cost is €14 for adults and €7 for children.

Other Music Museums Worth Visiting

While I enjoyed visiting Beethoven Haus and communing with the spirit of the young Beethoven, I was even more excited by the Beethoven museums in Vienna. Here, you can visit some of the apartments in which Beethoven lived and worked, and gain a much deeper undrestanding of his music.

Vienna is also home to museums dedicated to Hadyn, Mozart, Schubert, and Strauss, among others. Read more in my post A Music Lover’s Guide to Vienna.

Also check out the Bach Museum in Leipzig, which for me, is the best music museum I’ve ever visited. Read more here.

Staying in Cologne

As mentioned earlier, consider staying in Cologne rather than in Bonn. Cologne as a lot to offer with its museums, cathedral, and lively riverfront area. Here you can watch the locals go by while enjoying a great meal. Don’t forget to sample a glass (or two) of Kölsch, a local beer brewed only in Cologne. It goes down very easy.

Conclusion

Have you visited the Beethoven-Haus Museum? What did you think? Share your recommendations fir other artsy travelres in the comments below.

Carol Cram on Dufferin Terrace overlooking St. Lawrence River in Quebec City

Top Ten Excellent Things to Do in Québec City for the Artsy Traveler

North America, Canada, Destinations Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on Top Ten Excellent Things to Do in Québec City for the Artsy Traveler

Last updated on October 13th, 2025 at 04:35 am

As many North American travelers have said before me, visiting Québec City is like going to Europe—without the jet lag.

This cobblestoned throwback to the 17th century oozes charm, charisma, and, yes, crowds.

But don’t let its popularity deter you. With thoughtful timing, you can experience the quieter side of the city, especially in its delightful, often uncrowded museums and winding alleyways full of art, history, and fabulous food.

Highlights at a Glance

  • Taking a walking tour of Old Québec
  • Exploring the Musée national des beaux-arts du Québec
  • Going on a bike excursion to Wendake to learn about indigenous culture
  • Staying in a boutique hotel like the highly-rated Auberge Saint-Antoine in Old Québec
  • Choosing a food tour to sample unique cuisine

Why Visit Québec City?

Québec City is one of the oldest continuously occupied cities in North America. As I learned way back in Grade 4 Social Studies, Samuel de Champlain showed up in 1608 and established the first settlement, claiming it for France.

In 1759, the British clashed with the French at the Plains of Abraham (which you can visit). Unfortunately for the French, the British won, thereby sparking almost four centuries of friction between English Canada and French Canada that still shows little sign of abating.

Follow Canadian politics for awhile and you’ll see what I mean.

Modern Québec City is proud, artsy, and unmistakably Québécois—with a distinctly European flair that’s hard to resist.

Language Barrier? Not Really.

Don’t worry if you’re an Anglophone. Québec City is a tourist town, and most people will speak English to you and be nice about it, particularly if you throw out the occasional bonjour and merci.

I received many tolerant, albeit occasionally weary smiles, every time I tried speaking my schoolgirl French. I excused my ineptitude by telling people I’m from the west coast of Canada, to which most sagely nodded in understanding.

My First Visit—and How Things Have Changed

I first visited Québec City in 1967 when I was eleven years old on a trip “back east” to visit Expo 67 in Montreal.

I remembered being surprised not only by how old Québec City was (unlike Vancouver, which was established in 1871), but also how poor.

Back then, Québec City was not the tourist mecca it has become.

In 1967, the area called Old Québec or Vieux Québec, where the tourists now flock, was run down and depressing.

Thankfully, all that’s changed in favor of a faux 17th century, vaguely manufactured vibe. Yes, it’s touristy but it still manages to be charming enough to have you snapping pictures at every turn.

The ancient buildings are spruced up with colorful shutters and chi chi shops, while souvenir emporiums and excellent restaurants abound. There’s even a place that only sells popcorn (it’s really good, btw).

Within a few hours of arriving in Québec City, you’ll naturally slow down and let the culture seep into your bones. It’s that kind of place.

Map of Québec City

The sites described in this post are shown on the map below. The numbers correspond to the order of sites in the top ten list.

1. Immerse Yourself at Immersion Québec

Located in the vaults of the Historic Maison Chevalier at the base of Old Québec, this 360 immersive experience (#1 on the map) catapults you into the history of Québec City.

Yes, it’s super cheesy—and I loved it!

I popped into the last showing of the day and was the only customer, which suited me fine. The friendly attendant cheerfully helped me don a 3D headset and then got me settled to enjoy the show.

Seconds later, I was paddling a canoe along the Saint Lawrence River and communing with the local indigenous people—the Wendat (more on them later!).

I thoroughly enjoyed the entire experience, even if the digitization was sometimes less than stellar. But hey, I learned a lot about Québec history, which was a big selling point for me.

You’ll get a more in-depth and serious view of history at the nearby Museum of Civilization (see #5), but if you’re looking for a quick intro, check out Immersion Québec.

The presentation is available in French, English, Spanish and Mandarin.

👉 Insider Tip: Go later in the afternoon to avoid crowds. Reserve online during peak times. Website here

👉 “Looking for a fun way to start your visit? Book a 2‑hour Grand Walking Tour of Old Quebec City that ties in beautifully with Immersion Québec’s themes.

2. Wander Through Vieux-Québec (Old Québec)

Old Québec (#2) is sometimes the only part of Québec City that visitors spending an afternoon will see, which is a shame. But if you’re short of time, make the warren of cobbled streets that make up OId Québec your main stop.

This compact and walkable UNESCO World Heritage Site is basically a few streets lined with shops and cafes. Take your time and stop into some of the many galleries and gift shops.

Check Out the Murals

One of my favorite sites is this massive mural painting on the side of one of the old buildings.

mural in old quebec

On a hot summer day, you’re shaded by colorful umbrellas floating overhead.

Colorful umbrellas suspended between two buildings in Old Quebec City

For the energetically inclined, climb the stairs to Dufferin Terrace to enjoy the wide boardwalk and sweeping views of the St. Lawrence River. For those who prefer not to climb a lot of stairs, take the funicular (see below!).

Dufferin Terrace

If you’re visiting Québec City for several days (highly recommended!), stroll Dufferin Terrace at various times of day to enjoy the varying views of the river and the Chateau Frontenac.

Imagine standing here four hundred years ago and looking down at the river crowded with sailing ships and canoes.

View of the St. Lawrence river and Old Quebec from Dufferin Terrace in Quebec City

Ride the Funicular

You can also choose to take the short funicular ride up the cliff face to Dufferin Terrace. Be warned that you need cash. If you don’t have it (who has cash these days?), there is an ATM in the kiosk at the bottom of the funicular.

View of the funicular tracks going up from Old Quebec to Duffering Terrace

When you exit from the funicular, you’ll see the iconic Château Frontenac directly in front of you.

Built in 1893, the castle-like hotel is one of several established across Canada by the Canadian Pacific Railways. These iconic hotels have been taken over by Fairmont and are pretty much the last word in luxury (and price!).

If you have the budget, book a room and enjoy the views and the elegant service. If your budget is more modest, go into Château Frontenac anyway to admire the beautiful lobby, snap some photos, and browse the fancy shops.

The Château Frontenac is probably one of the most photographed hotels in Canada.

Chateau Frontenac in Quebec City

After strolling Dufferin Terrace,, check out Rue du Trésor to the right of Château Frontenac as you face it with your back to the river. Here, you’ll find plenty of stalls selling arts and crafts by local artists.

Also wander along Rue Saint Anne to check out several good restaurants and boutique hotels. I stayed at the Auberge Place d’Armes on Rue Saint Anne.

For Québec City, the room was quite reasonable and charmingly old.

Bedroom in Auberge Place d'Armes in Quebec City

3. Join a Themed Walking Tour

I recommend wandering Old Québec on your own for awhile and then booking a walking tour that focuses on a specific topic that interests you.

The Québec City website lists a variety of walking tours ranging from exploring with Louise Penny’s Inspector Gamache to seeing Old Québec through the eyes of a 17th century Fille du Roi (King’s Daughter).

Who is a Fille du Roi, you ask? Take the tour and find out!

I took a walking tour with Cicerone Tours. Led by a costumed guide who was an architecture buff, the tour provided a good overview of Québec history that was off-the-beaten track.

Two tour guides dressed in 17th century garb on Dufferin Terrace in Quebec City

👉 Here are some walking tour options with GetYourGuide:

4. Visit the Saint-Louis Forts and Châteaux Historic Site

On my previous visits to Québec City, I’d not toured this gem of historical sightseeing (#4) because it didn’t yet exist. Well, the old fort existed—its ruins date from 1620—but it had yet to be excavated and opened to the public.

I highly recommend signing up for the 45-minute tour run by enthusiastic Parks Canada guides. You’ll descend beneath Dufferin Terrace in front of the Château Frontenac to explore the only archaeological crypt in North America.

How cool is that?

You’ll see the archaeological vestiges of the official residence of the French and British governors, which was also the seat of power for the former colony, between 1620 and 1834.

You’ll also view the remnants of the four forts and two chateaux (governor’s residences) erected on the site over the years, as well as the nearby outbuildings.

Interior of archeological site under Dufferin Terrace in Old Quebec City

5.Bring Culture to Life at the Museum of Civilization (Musée de la civilisation)

I do love a Museum of Civilization and the one in Québec City is a good’un (#5).

Wander through several interactive exhibits and beautifully curated displays to learn about the history of Québec—both human and natural, including exhibitions featuring Québec’s indigenous peoples and global pop culture.

Plan to spend at least an hour. The museum is located right in the Old Port, so after your visit, stroll along the waterfront and back into Old Québec to enjoy a drink (or two).

🧡 Lunch Tip: Try Le Lapin Sauté nearby for rabbit dishes and charming terrace seating.

6. Get Inspired at the Musée national des beaux-arts du Québec (MNBAQ)

The Musée national des beaux-arts du Québec (#6) was the highlight of my five-day visit to Québec City.

MNBAQ blends old and new architectural styles and is a must-see for art lovers visiting Québec City.

Four spacious floors of well-organized exhibition space provide visitors with a good overview of art by Québec artists, including one whole floor dedicated to Inuit and indigenous art.

Special Exhibition – Niki de Saint Phalle

The special exhibition showcased the art and career of Niki de Saint Phalle, an artist who I have admired for decades. Her whimsical, brightly-colored sculptures are impossible to look at without smiling.

Sculpture of snakes by Nikki de Sainte Phael at the musee des beaux arts in Quebec City

The comprehensive exhibition included work from Saint Phalle’s long career, starting with photographs of the rifle paintings that brought her to the attention of the art work in the 1950s.

Several rooms are devoted to Niki de Saint Phalle’s masterwork—the Il Giardino dei Tarocchi (Tarot Garden) in Italy, which I’d visited several years earlier.

I included the garden in my post Art Masterpieces in Tuscany You Don’t Want to Miss. Niki spent twenty years building the garden, which features sculptures that represent characters from the Tarot.

Niki’s fascination with serpentine forms and snakes is delightfully acknowledged in the exhibition with several animated snakes slithering across the floor. I spent several minutes watching them slide under walls and over feet.

The gorgeously curated and beautifully displayed exhibition will captivate both children and adults.

Contemporary Quebec Art

After touring the special exhibition at the Musée des Beaux Arts, head up the bright and airy stairwell to the second floor where you’ll find several rooms full of art by Québec artists.

For me, the highlight is the paintings by Riopelle, one of my favorite Canadian abstract artists from the 1950s and 60s.

Piece by Ripelle featured at the Musee des beaux-arts in Quebec City

Inuit and Indigenous Art

Exhibited on the top floor is a marvelous collection of sculptures by Inuit and Indigenous artists from all over Québec. Informative explanations are provided in both English and French

After touring the top floor, step out onto the rooftop terrace to enjoy a view of Québec City.

The Musée national des beaux-arts du Québec is located about 30 minutes from the main action in Old Québec and from most of the hotels.

7. Relive History at the Plains of Abraham

I learned all about the battle of the Plains of Abraham (#7) back in Grade 4.

In British Columbia, where I grew up and still live in, the British were the heroes. So when I first visited the Plains of Abraham in 1967, I was surprised to discover two things. First, the people in Québec were not happy that the British won and second, the Plains of Abraham isn’t really a plain.

It’s a lovely landscaped park-like area that looks nothing what I’d envisioned. I guess I thought there’s still be dead bodies littering the dusty ground.

A visit to the Plains of Abraham combines history and nature. The site of the pivotal 1759 battle is part of Battlefields Park and stretches over 100 hectares. You’ll enjoy sweeping views of the St. Lawrence River, tree-lined walking paths, gardens, and wide-open green spaces.

For a good history hit, explore the Plains of Abraham Museum, where interactive exhibits and multimedia presentations recount the famous battle and colonial life.

You can easily walk to the park from Old Québec. In summer, visitors can also enjoy concerts, guided historical tours, and reenactments.

8. Walk the Ramparts

Did you know that Québec City is the only fortified city in North America outside of Mexico? How cool is that! The Fortifications of Québec stretch nearly 4.6 kilometers and encircle much of Old Québec, with towers, gates, and stone walls that date back to the 17th century.

For a relaxing, history-soaked experience, take an hour or two to walk along the ramparts—especially from St. Louis Gate (#8) to the Citadelle. Along the way, you’ll get plenty of great views of the St. Lawrence River and Old Québec.

If you’re into military history, stop off at La Citadelle de Québec, which is an active military base and the largest British-built fortress in North America. In summer, you can watch the Changing of the Guard ceremony at 10 am.

9. Visit the Huron-Wendat Museum in Wendake

If you have a car, drive about twenty minutes outside the city core to Wendake, a Huron-Wendat Nation community. Here, you can enjoy the marvelous Huron-Wendat Museum (#9).

I had the museum almost to myself, which was awesome because there was so much to see and read and interact with. You’ll learn a lot about the art, history, and spiritual life of the Wendat people.

The first thing I learned was that I grew up mislabeling the Wendat people as the Huron—the name given to the nation by the colonists. I’m glad to have learned differently and also to have discovered such a rich culture.

Exhibits at the museum include intricate beadwork, traditional crafts, and powerful storytelling offering a new perspective on colonial narratives.

Time it right and you might catch a traditional dance performance or artisan workshop. It’s immersive, respectful, and deeply enriching.

10. Soak in Local Flavor (Literally) in Québec’s Food Scene

You don’t have to go far to enjoy excellent food in Québec! From traditional French dishes such as onion soup and escargots to more adventurous fare that incorporates indigenous flavors, you’ll find lots to enjoy.

Here’s an escargot dish I ate at one of the charming restaurants on rue Saint-Anne.

escargot dish

Venture outside Old Québec to explore some of the upscale restaurants along Grande Allée Est and some funkier choices along Rue Saint-Jean. I had the best crepe of my life (and I’ve eaten crepes in France many times) in a little bistro called Le Billig on Rue Saint-Jean.

Be sure to try local cheeses, maple treats, and the iconic tourtière. For an artsy twist, check out Le Monastère des Augustines, where the cuisine is both health-focused and beautifully plated.

🧡 My favorites:

  • Le Billig (#10) on Rue Saint-Jean: Best crepe of my life.
  • Le Monastère des Augustines: Artistic, healthy, and serene.
  • Grande Allée Est: Elegant fine dining.
  • Rue Sainte-Anne: Quirky, cozy, and cool.

Don’t miss tourtière, local cheeses, and anything maple.

Bonus Artsy Stops

  • Galerie d’Art Inuit Brousseau – Stunning Indigenous art
  • Palais Montcalm – Jazz and classical concerts in a gorgeous Art Deco venue
  • Carnaval de Québec (winter) – Ice, lights, street theater, and giant Bonhomme

Where to Stay: Artsy & Authentic

HotelVibe & Highlights
Auberge Saint-AntoineRelais & Châteaux gem with archaeological artifacts, artful decor, and great dining.
Le Manoir d’AuteuilFrench Art Deco elegance inside the city walls—intimate and creative.
Hôtel NomadBoutique chic—each room tells a story, infused with character and charm.
Fairmont Le Château FrontenacIconic castle hotel—grand, historic, and perfectly placed.
Le Germain Hotel / Hotel 71Sleek, stylish, and centrally located with strong art-focused design.

Conclusion

Québec City’s long and fascinating history—both indigenous and colonial—makes it one of the most compelling places to visit in North America. The people of Québec are serious about preserving their culture while still welcoming the world.

Enjoy the history and the art, but also take the time to relax, sample the excellent food, and experience a bit of the joie de vivre that is uniquely Québécois.

Have you visited Québec City? Share your recommendations for other artsy travelers in the comments below.

Carol Cram in the floating lantern room at the Arte Museum in Las Vegas

Best Bets in Las Vegas: Neon Museum and Arte Museum

Arts & Culture, Museums, North America, United States Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on Best Bets in Las Vegas: Neon Museum and Arte Museum

Last updated on August 11th, 2025 at 01:15 pm

The Neon Museum and the new Arte Museum in Las Vegas are two of the most compelling attractions in a city replete with attractions.  

One brings the history of this unique city to life; the other is cutting-edge state of the art wowza.

On my recent trip to glitzy, ritzy Vegas, I visited both the Neon Museum and the Arte Museum. If you’re looking to feel inspired, surprised, and delighted, I recommend visiting both.

Pro Tip

Visit the Neon Museum as late in the evening as you can to enjoy the lights. When the weather outside is hot (which in Vegas, it very often is!), enjoy the air-conditioned, indoor Arte Museum.

I was in Vegas at the end of June when temperatures soared to 41 degrees (106 Fahrenheit). My visit to the Neon Museum, where I took the guided tour, was warm at 9:00 pm, but definitely doable, and just below the 105-degree threshold that requires the museum to close.

Find great Las Vegas Hotels
Book a Tour Outside Las Vegas

The Neon Museum: A Graveyard of Glorious Signs

Neon and Vegas go together like, well, neon and Vegas. The Las Vegas strip is ablaze 24/7 and all that glitters in Vegas is definitely not gold. It’s neon! Lots and lots of neon, much of it pulsating.

The Neon Museum was established as a non-profit learning institution back in 1996. Its mandate is to use iconic neon signs to share the art, culture, and history of Las Vegas.

Located near Fremont Street, the Neon Museum campus includes the Neon Boneyard Main Collection that is open to the public, the North Gallery, which houses additional rescued signs, and a Visitors’ Center housed inside the former La Concha Motel lobby.

In the Neon Boneyard, you’ll find more than 250 unrestored signs which are illuminated with ground lighting in addition to 26 restored signs which are on all the time.

Types of Signs

The stars of the boneyard are iconic signs from the Stardust and Sahara—flashy throwbacks to mid-century glamor! They are wonderfully photogenic.

Illuminated Stardust sign at the Neon Museum in Las Vegas

You’ll see several old motel, restaurant, and even laundromat signs that invoke the forties, fifties, and sixties. I particularly love this neon sign from the Yucca Motel because it reminded me of the motels I used to stay in traveling around the western States with my parents when I was a little girl.

Neon sign for the Yucca hotel on display at the Neon Museum in Las Vegas

Also check out some of the more whimsical signs such as the guitar from the Hard Rock Café and the giant duck.

Illuminated giant neon duck at the Neon Museum in Las Vegas
Illuminated giant guitar for the hard Rock Cave sign at the Neon Museum in Las Vegas

Take the Guided Tour

This is a must-do! You can walk through the boneyard on your own during daylight hours, but you won’t get particularly great pictures, or learn much of the fascinating history. Plaques with information are strategically located around the circuit, but they are no substitute for a guided tour.

I highly recommend the guided tour. I’ve taken it twice on two separate trips to Las Vegas, and I learned something new each time. The guides are funny, informative, and clearly passionate about Vegas history.

Three guided tours in English are offered:

  • Illuminating Las Vegas: focus on the history of illuminations in Las Vegas
  • Viva Las Vegas! Movies: view the signs in the context of the part their played as iconic backdrops in movies over the last century.
  • Stories from Las Vegas: The origins of Vegas, its designers, and the Neon Boneyard.

Spanish speakers can take the Historia. Sacado a la luz tour.

The tour lasts about 45 minutes and costs around $28 for adults, which I found to be excellent value considering the wealth of stories and the photo ops.

Night tours sell out fast, so book ahead if you want to see the glowing signs in their full technicolor glory.

And for more lights, check out this GetYourGuide tour of Las Vegas at night.

Arte Museum: Immerse Your Senses

The Neon Museum joyfully preserves the past, while the Arte Museum is all about welcoming in the future. Stepping int this multi-room, multi-sensory digital art space is like stepping into a dream.

I’ve seen a few digital immersion exhibits in my time, but the one at the Arte Museum is at a whole new level. It’s a high-res, surround-sound, motion-sensitive, jaw-droppingly gorgeous experience that truly will knock your socks off.

Except this is Vegas and if it’s 106 Fahrenheit outside like it was the day I visited, you won’t be wearing socks.

Exploring the Rooms

The Arte Museum is made up of themed immersive spaces that rotate between works of digital art, soundscapes, and optical illusion.

Here are a few of my favorites:

Nature Rooms

Waves crash in slow motion under the Northern Lights, projected floor-to-ceiling with such realism that you feel the chill in the air. I also really liked the Forest where spirit guides from the four elements–Earth, Wind, Fire, and Air and the four seasons come alive. Here’s the stag (Earth) for Spring.

This photo captures the stag in mid-stride. It stalks gracefully through the forest backdrop, its hide shedding petals.

Digitized stag covering in flowers in a forest at the Arte Museum in las Vegas

Several artists are featured in a series of projections. Van Gogh’s Starry Night swirls around you before morphing into paintings of Brittany and the South Pacific by Paul Gauguin, followed by a stunning procession of portraits by Gustav Klimt (he of The Kiss fame).

Take a seat on one of the thoughtfully provided benches and just give yourself over to enjoyment. I must have sat there for at least thirty minutes, loving every moment of the experience.

Giant representation of a Gauguin painting of Brittany at the Arte Museum in Las Vegas
Giant representation of a Van Gogh painting of a starry night at the Arte Museum in Las Vegas

Lantern Room

Walk right into this room full of floating lanterns. They shimmer and change color over the course of several minutes. It’s truly magical.

Other rooms are more interactive, with mirrors, lights, and unexpected animations that make you feel like part of the art itself. It’s like walking through a living canvas.

Why It’s So Compelling

What sets Arte Museum apart is how seamlessly it blends technology and storytelling. The projections are crisp, the rooms respond to movement, and the music matches the imagery in a variety of fascinating ways.

The experience truly is mesmerizing and meditative. I found myself standing for long periods in the middle of one of the animations such as the crashing waves and just imagining myself inside the waves.

You’ll want to spend at least 90 minutes to two hours in the Arte Museum.

Great for All Ages (Yes, Even Kids!)

The Arte Museum is an awesome place to go with kids. I can’t imagine them getting bored with so much to look at and interact with. There is even a room in which you can color in an animal and then watch it lumber across the screen along with other people’s drawings.

I colored in a blue elephant and put my initials on him so I could track his progress.

The creators of the Arte Museum are a South Korean collective known for blending AI with design and light. The tech behind the scenes is top-tier, but it never overwhelms the art—it enhances it.

Click below to check availablity and purchase tickets for Arte Museum through GetYourGuide:

Final Thoughts: Two Museums, One Enchanting Day

If you want to escape the slot machines for a bit and soak up some seriously dazzling art and history, pair the Neon Museum with the Arte Museum for a day that’s cultural and unforgettable.

I suggest doing the Arte Museum in the afternoon—to avoid the crowds—and ending your evening with a twilight tour of the Neon Museum when the signs flicker to life. Make sure you book the Neon Museum tour in advance.

Here are some other Las Vegas tours to consider with GetYourGuide:

Have you visited the Neon Museum and/or the Arte Museum? Share your recommendations and tips for other artsy travelers in the comments below.

Carol Cram in front of the formal gardens at Villandry in the Loire Valley with the chateaux in the background.

Six of the Best Loire Valley Châteaux You Should Explore

France, Destinations Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on Six of the Best Loire Valley Châteaux You Should Explore

Last updated on October 13th, 2025 at 04:44 am

The Loire Valley, with its fabulous châteaux, gently pretty countryside, and great food, is worth several days of your time.

Yes, you could do a quick day trip from Paris to visit two or three of the biggies (Chambord and Chenonceau are the most popular), but if at all possible, home base in one of the Loire Valley’s many lovely towns and see a châteaux a day for at least five days.

That’s what I did during a trip to the Loire Valley in April of 2025. I stayed for four days in an apartment in Chinon (highly recommended) and toured five of the six châteaux I describe in this post.

My Favorite Châteaux

Here’s my very brief take on each of these châteaux (well, one is a castle, but whatever):

  • Chambord (#1 on the map below): touristy, crowded huge, lots to see and do, great for families
  • Azay-le-Rideau (#2): stunningly gorgeous; a photographer’s dream
  • Chinon (#3): excellent castle experience, also great for families
  • Villandry (#4): spectacular gardens are the big draw here
  • Ussé (#5): definitely the stuff of fairy tales with a great Sleeping Beauty exhibit that children will enjoy (as did I!)
  • Chenonceau (#6): one of the most famous châteaux and therefore crowded, touristy, and still magnificent

Here’s a map of the châteaux I recommend. Apart from Chambord, all are pretty close to each other, with Chinon making an excellent home base.

Map courtesy of Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

So, ready to dive in? I’ll start first with a quick overview of châteaux in the Loire Valley and then talk about my experience visiting each of the five châteaux and one castle.

Also included are some recommendations for where to stay in the Loire Valley and some suggested tours with GetYourGuide.

Overview

Did you know that France has over 45,000 châteaux? That’s a lot of châteaux! Of course, most are modestly-sized family homes or converted hotels. The major chateaux—the ones that people go out of their way to visit—are mostly located in the fabled Loire Valley about two hours southwest of Paris.

Back in the day, rich folks journeyed from Paris to summer cottages that consisted of multi-turreted architectural wonders that to this day command gasps of wonder from visitors.

I’ve always had a bit of a soft spot for châteaux, ever since I first visited the Loire Valley back in the 1980s on my first of many driving trips around France.

In those days, most of the châteaux I visited were pretty much empty shells, with Cheverny being the only one richly furnished. The majority had been stripped of their furnishings during the French revolution and then during World War II and had not, at least in 1981, been restored.

Fast forward forty years to the spring of 2025, and I discovered that a lot had changed! Each of the châteaux I visited was interesting both inside and outside.

One thing you’ll quickly realize is that most châteaux (particularly the ones I recommend visiting) are incredibly photogenic! It’s almost impossible not to just keep snapping and snapping photos of both the exteriors and the interiors.

Find great Loire Valley Hotels
Rent an Apartment in the Loire Valley
Book a Tour in the Loire Valley

Make Chinon Your Home Base

I stayed in an apartment overlooking the Vienne River in the charming and uncrowded town of Chinon. If you have a car, Chinon makes a perfect home base. Here are some more options for hotels and apartments in Chinon.

Chambord

Chambord is the largest and most visited château in the Loire Valley. Its location, only about 90 minutes from Paris makes it an easy day tour if you don’t have your own wheels.

I visited Chambord on my way driving from Paris to Chinon where I stayed for four nights.

Getting Tickets to Chambord

You can purchase your tickets online before your visit or purchase tickets at Chambord. I visited in April and, while I did purchase tickets in advance, I didn’t need to. However, during the busy summer months, you should probably get your tickets before your visit to avoid line-ups.

If you don’t have your own wheels, consider taking a day trip to Chambord from Paris. This tour with GetYourGuide includes the three big C’s: Chambord, Chenonceau, and Cheverny—the Loire Valley stars. It’s a long day, but you’ll at least get to see the highlights.

Arriving at Chambord

If you’re arriving at Chambord by car, you’ll arrive first at the very large car park—an indication of just how popular this major château is with visitors. From the parking lot, stroll toward the château. It’s pretty hard to miss!

Carol Cram on the bridge leading to the chateau of Chambord with its multitude of turrets.

On your way, you’ll pass a kiosk where you can rent a bike, a golf cart, a boat, or even a pedal car. If you have lots of time to spare, choose one of these options to explore the vast grounds and waterways of the Chambord estate.

If you’re only coming for a short visit (as I was), you don’t need to rent a conveyance to take you the short distance over the bridge and to the château.

What’s at Chambord

Chambord is kind of like a Château Disneyland. Its website bristles with opportunities for family fun. Apart from visiting the château itself (a must-do), you can visit the gardens, watch a horse show, attend a concert, view an art show, sample local products and more. Check the website for details.

If you’re traveling with children, you’ll find all sorts of activities designed to engage them.

But I had only about two hours to spare and so my visit to Chambord consisted of touring the château and then enjoying a quick snack at the outdoor café.

Touring the Château

The Château Chambord is HUGE! Its architecture is also unusual compared to other châteaux. When you enter, you’ll find four wide vestibules forming a Greek cross plan with the center of the cross occupied by the famous double-spiral staircase.

A stunning view of the double-helix staircase inside Château de Chambord, one of the most iconic Loire Valley chateaux, showcasing intricate Renaissance stonework and graceful spirals.

The cross-shaped plan results in four similarly sized living quarters on each floor of the keep—the central part of the château. In addition, there are two wings—the royal wing to the east and the chapel to the west. You access these wings either from the courtyard or from galleries on the upper floors.

Start on the ground floor and wander form room to room in each of the four parts of the cross, then ascend the double-spiral staircase and keep exploring two more floors and the wings. There is a LOT to see.

In addition to several richly furnished quarters, highlights for me included Molière’s theater, the art exhibit by Korean artist Kim En Joong, lots of cool stuffed animals, and a fascinating exhibition about how art was stored at the château in WWII.

Molière’s Theater

As a theater buff (my third novel A Muse of Fire is set at Covent Garden Theatre in 1809), I always get excited when I see old theatres. At Chambord, the premiere of Molière’s comedy-ballet Le Bourgeois gentilhomme was played in front of King Louis XIV in 1670. Molière’s Theatre is on the ground floor across from the staircase.

The theatre you see today was recreated 350 years after the premiere.

Proscenium arched small stage of Moliere's theater located in Chambord chateau in the Loire Valley

Art Exhibition

When I visited Chambord, a spectacular exhibition of work by Korean stained-glass artist Kim En Joong was featured. The exhibition runs until the end of August, 2025. Several rooms on the second floor of the château are devoted to exhibiting Kim En Joong’s work, which includes stained-glass pieces, ceramics, and paintings.

Stained glass windows by Kim En Joong featured at Chambord in the Loire Valley.
Flower-shaped stained glass window by Korean artist Kim En Joong featured at Chambord in the Loire Valley.
four-paneled stained glass window by Korean artist Kim En Joong featured at Chambord in the Loire Valley.

Local Flora and Fauna

Several rooms included displays of the critters that roam the estate—from bucks to boars to bunnies. I was particularly taken by the boar.

Stuffed boar in a display at Chambord chateau in the Loire Valley

World War II Exhibition

During WWII, precious artwork from the Louvre was brought to Chambord to protect it from bombing and from being stolen by the Nazis. The exhibition of how the artworks were transported and stored fascinated me because I’d just read The Stolen Lady by Laura Morelli, who I also interviewed on my podcast (The Art In Fiction Podcast—check it out!).

If you’re interested in art and WWII, you won’t want to miss this exhibition.

Crates containing art salvaged from the Louvre during Wolrd War II as part of an exhibition at Chambord chateau in the Loire Valley

Farewell to Chambord

In two hours, I barely scratched the surface of everything there is to see at Chambord.

While you can definitely see the highlights in two hours, consider spending the whole day there. That will give you time to roam around the grounds, maybe take in a horse show, and spend even more time exploring the 60 rooms in the château that are open to the public.

If you’re already staying in the Loire Valley, and would like a guided tour of Chambord, here are two good options from GetYourGuide.

Villandry

If you love gardens, then put the Château Villandry on your must-see châteaux list. Unlike Chambord, the château itself is quite compact (for a château) and the gardens can be toured at a leisurely pace in about an hour.

You won’t exhaust yourself visiting Villandry!

Interior of Villandry

Various richly decorated rooms give you a sense of how the upper crust lived back in the day. I find that, after a while, one gorgeously appointed room looks pretty much like the next.

For me, the highlight is the beautifully staged kitchen. There is so much attention to detail, including a bevy of stuffed bunnies (more bunnies!) gamboling through a woodland centerpiece on the table.

Lifelike mannequins depict a royal medieval court scene, possibly from Château d’Ussé, said to inspire Sleeping Beauty—one of the fairytale Loire Valley chateaux.

I also enjoyed the exhibition of paintings by a local artist that was mounted on the upper floor.

Gardens of Villandry

The highlight of Villandry—and why people visit—is the sumptuous gardens, reputed to be among the best of all the Loire châteaux (which is saying something).

If you’re lucky enough to visit on a sunny day (as I was), you’ll find lots of fabulous angles to snap—some including the château, and others focusing on the gardens.

I appreciated that the gardens, while extensive, are easily walkable and also uncrowded. You can see by the pictures that we had the place almost to ourselves.

Formal gardens at Villandry chateau in the Loire valley featuring a topiary three-tiered tree in the foreground.
Formal gardens at Villandry chateau in the Loire valley featuring a long passageway flanked either side by pruned trees that are just beginning to show lewaves.
Formal gardens at Villandry chateau in the Loire valley featuring part of the chateau in the background.
Panoramic view of the chateau at Villandry with a gnarled tree in the foreground.

Azay-le-Rideau

For good reason, Azay-le-Rideau is touted as one of the most beautiful chateaux in the whole of the Loire Valley, if not France. Its symmetrical architecture and location surrounded by water make it ridiculously photogenic.

I dare you to walk around it and not take photos!

View of Azay-le-Rideau chateau in the Loire Valley with white and purple tulips in the foreground.

When visiting Azay-le-Rideau, you can choose to enter just the grounds for free between 5 and 6 pm. This is what I did. I didn’t feel like touring the interior of the chateau after already touring Chinon, Chambord, and Villandry, and so opted to only view it from the outside.

View of Azay-le-Rideau chateau in the Loire Valley perfectly reflected in the formal lake

If you choose to go inside, you’ll pay €16 and see the usual assortment of sumptuously furnished rooms. You’ll also learn more about the history of the chateau. Check out the website for more details.

An hour is sufficient to circumnavigate the château and snap a ton of pictures. During my visit, the late afternoon light made the walls of the château positively glow.

View of Azay-le-Rideau chateau in the Loire Valley perfectly reflected in the formal lake

Morning Tour of Azay-le-Rideau and Villandry

If you don’t have your own wheels, consider this GetYourGuide guided tour that takes in both Azay-le-Rideau and Villandry.

Chinon Castle

I chose to home-base in a two-bedroom apartment overlooking the Vienne River in Chinon. It turned out to be the perfect location for exploring chateaux in the area.

Three of the six châteaux I visited were within a 20-minute drive: Villandry, Azay-le-Rideau, and Ussé, and the castle at Chinon was within walking distance. From Chinon, you could reach Chenonceau, along with many other worthy châteaux such as Ambroise and Blois in under an hour, with Chambord being about 90 minutes away.

Why Chinon?

Chinon has one of the Loire Valley’s most interesting medieval castles. While many of the châteaux date from the middle ages, quite a few were extensively renovated in the Renaissance and later. Any vestiges of the original fortresses are long gone.

Not so Chinon. It still looks like a “real” castle, complete with battlements, towers, and plenty of severe stone-walled rooms.

A round stone tower overlooks the verdant Loire Valley countryside from the grounds of Château de Chinon, capturing the serene beauty of this historic château.

Getting to the Castle

You can walk up to the castle from anywhere in the town of Chinon which meanders picturesquely alongside the Vienne River. That’s what I did—and it’s a stiff walk, albeit with stunning views.

Or, you can be smarter than I was and walk through the main square at Chinon and take the thoughtfully provided elevator up to the fortress. Your legs will thank you.

Touring the Castle

I really enjoyed Chinon Castle because it was different from the fancy dancy châteaux. This was a castle that meant business back in the day. In fact, it’s called the fortress of Chinon, and was the last refuge of Henry II of England, and also hosted such luminaries as Eleanor of Aquitaine, Joan of Arc, and Charles VII.

The fortress is actually three castles for the price of one! There’s plenty to see with lots of explanations about the history and its many famous inhabitants. I was quite taken with this massive bed.

A visitor stands beside a four-poster canopy bed draped in red fabric at Château de Chinon, a Loire Valley château steeped in royal history and medieval charm.

Get the Histopad

I suggest picking up a histopad when you buy your tickets. Histopads were also available at Chambord, and I must say they provide a clever way to enjoy all that a site has to offer.

The histopad virtually reconstructs nine rooms in the castle to show you a 360° view of what they looked like in their heyday, complete with sound effects. Here’s how the histopad depicted the kitchen.

Medieval kitchen at Chinon castle with a histopad showing the kitchen on a screen in the foreground.

Enjoying the Views

A highlight of a visit to Chinon are the stunning views over the town of Chinon and the Loire countryside. This area of France really is ridiculously photogenic!

Panormaic view over the picturesque town of Chinon and the Vienne River seen from the ramparts of Chinon castle.
A round stone tower overlooks the verdant Loire Valley countryside from the grounds of Château de Chinon, capturing the serene beauty of this historic château.

Staying in Chinon

I stayed in an apartment in Chinon that was very reasonably priced and included a balcony and a stunning view of the Vienne River. During my four days there, I never tired of watching the light change the river, depending on the time of day. Here’s a selection of photos I took of our view.

View of the Vienne river from an apartment in chinon in the Loire Valley in the late afternoon
View of the Vienne river from an apartment in chinon in the Loire Valley at sunset
View of the Vienne river from an apartment in chinon in the Loire Valley on a sunny afternoon with lots of fluffy white clouds
View of the Vienne river from an apartment in chinon in the Loire Valley at sunset
View of the Vienne river from an apartment in chinon in the Loire Valley in the afternoon on a beautiful sunny day

Ussé Château

The château of Ussé is often called the Sleeping Beauty Castle or, in French, La Belle du Bois Dormant. It certainly has that vibe.

Surrounded by peaceful countryside and a bit off the tourist track, Ussé is an excellent choice if you’re looking for a quick and easy château visit—and you’re a fan of Sleeping Beauty (and who isn’t?).

Fairytale architecture of Château d’Ussé with turrets and spires rising above manicured gardens, embodying the romantic allure of Loire Valley chateaux.

Sleeping Beauty Tower

The main part of the château has a few nicely furnished rooms, but the real attraction is the Sleeping Beauty turret. Yeah, it’s a wee bit cheesy, but I enjoyed it!

You climb up a narrow spiral staircase (warning: it’s pretty narrow so you need to be quite spry) and view various rooms depicting events in the sleeping beauty story. I thoroughly enjoyed it!

Diorama at Château d’Ussé features an elderly woman spinning thread while a princess stands nearby, recreating the Sleeping Beauty tale in this magical Loire Valley château.
Lifelike mannequins depict a royal medieval court scene, possibly from Château d’Ussé, said to inspire Sleeping Beauty—one of the fairytale Loire Valley chateaux.
Geometric French formal gardens in full bloom at Château d’Ussé, with circular flower beds and elegant paths, exemplifying classic Loire Valley château landscaping.

Around the Château

A pleasingly laid out formal garden overlooks the Ussé River, and you can also check out the chapel, the stables, and the cellars. Afterwards, relax in the outdoor café near the entrance to the château. The food’s not gourmet, but you can’t beat the view.

Chenonceau

It’s a toss-up which château—Chenonceau or Chambord is more famous and more beautiful. My money’s on Chenonceau. While Chambord is remarkable, Chenonceau is classy. It sits regally on the edge of the Indre River with a large gallery that extends across the river.

It’s also very popular! If you’re traveling there in high season, get your tickets in advance.

Full disclosure: I did not visit Chenonceau on my most recent trip to the Loire Valley in April 2025, but I have been twice before and I do think it deserves a place on any château-hopper’s itinerary.

Here are a few pics to inspire you:

Four views of Chenincou chateau in the Loire Valley including a show to the chateau on the River Indre, the interior showing an elaborate bed, the exterior featuring the gardens with the chateau in the background and an aerial view of the chateau spanning the Indre River.

Specialty Loire Valley Experience

If I had an unlimited budget, I may consider taking this balloon tour of the Loire Valley with GetYourGuide. If you’ve participated in something like this, let us know your experience in the comments below!

Conclusion

If possible, stay awhile in the Loire Valley so you can tour at least three or four châteaux without rushing. Also take time to sample the great local wines, take walks in the beautiful countryside and just hang out.

Have you visited the Loire Valley? Share your thoughts and recommendations in the comments below.

Other Great Destinations in France

Caorl Cram in front of the Seine with the Notre Dame in the evening light in the distance

Visit Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris & Don’t Line Up

Destinations, France Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on Visit Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris & Don’t Line Up

Last updated on October 13th, 2025 at 04:46 am

Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris has—literally—risen from the ashes and is again open to the public.

If you’re visiting Paris, carve out an hour or so to go inside the recently reopened Notre-Dame de Paris and admire what surely must be the most incredible restoration job in modern history.

In this post, I describe my recent visit to the newly opened Notre-Dame Cathedral. 

If you’re visiting Paris, go. You won’t regret it.

Notre-Dame Cathedral Tickets: Make a Reservation

But before you charge off to the historic center of Paris–the first arrondisement on the Île de cité–make a reservation. Entrance to the cathedral is free, but if you make a reservation, you skip the long lineup of people who did not.

I couldn’t figure out why anyone would visit without making a reservation because doing so was so simple. A few hours before visiting the cathedral, I went to the official website and was given the choice of a 4 pm entry.

Check Your Reservation Time

The reservation is good for just twenty minutes past the allotted time. I arrived at 4:10 and walked straight through the main entrance with zero waiting. 

To my left was a very, very long line snaking around several loops filled with people who hadn’t made a reservation. Maybe I was just lucky to have gotten a same-day one. The website noted that it releases reservations throughout the day. As a result, you may need to check back frequently.

Line up of people waiting to go into Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris

A Miracle of Gothic Architecture

Once inside the cathedral, prepare to be amazed. Seriously amazed. I’ve visited Notre-Dame Cathedral many times since my first trip to Paris way back in 1970, and I’ve always enjoyed it.

But on this visit, I was jaw-droppingly blown away.

To think that only five years earlier in April 2019, the nave was a smoking ruin with portions of the ceiling caved in and the spire collapsed. 

And now? The restored stone is so blindingly white that it looks brand new—which of course it kind of is!

Nave of Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris after the restoration

A Brand New Cathedral

Gone is the gravitas imparted by stone columns that have soared to the vaulted ceiling for a thousand years. The new Notre-Dame Cathedral no longer feels ancient.

But, surprisingly, that doesn’t matter as much as I thought it would. I’m so impressed by the skill employed to rebuild the cathedral in less than five years, that I didn’t mind the newness.

Finding Your Way Around the Cathedral

The first challenge upon entering the cathedral is jockeying for position at the start of the nave to snap a picture without heads in the way. Everyone is holding a phone aloft to take the same picture, and of course I do too.

Once the first pictures are taken, it’s time to being the slow shuffle up the left aisle to the front of the cathedral and back down the other side. It’s slow going with plenty of bottlenecks, but whatever. That just provides more time for more snapping of photos of the columns and arches from every angle.

Columns and arches of the interior of Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris

In the side chapels on the left aisle are hung several modern works, most notably one by Matisse. Another highlight are the beautiful stained glass windows. I can’t even being to imagine how they were salvaged and then restored.

At the transept are the two giant rose windows. Both glow with restored vigor, their colors dancing off the white pillars.

Interior of Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris including one of the rose windows

What’s That Smell?

As I make the slow progress around the perimeter of the cathedral, I become aware of a lingering scent of burning. Usually, cathedrals smell of old stone.

The “new” Notre-Dame Cathedral smells of fire, a fitting reminder of its trauma.

Restoration Project Displays

After touring the cathedral, take a stroll along the street immediately to the left of the cathedral as you face it. Giant billboards document the restoration work with pictures and enough startling stats to keep you in awe. It’s heartening to witness the results of hundreds of skilled workers coming together with a common purpose.

The “new” Notre-Dame Cathedral restored my faith in humanity’s ability to accomplish great things with astonishing skill and dedication.

Tours of Notre-Dame Cathedral

If you’re not lucky like I was and can’t get last-minute tickets to enter Notre-Dame without lining up, consider one of these GetYourGuide guided tours. You’ll learn all about the history of this iconic cathedral along with information about the terrible fire and the remarkable restoration.

Powered by GetYourGuide

Staying in Paris

My latest go-to place to stay in Paris is the Citadines Saint-Germain-des-Prés Paris. You can’t beat the location right on the Seine and steps from Boulevard Saint-Michel.

The rooms are almost spacious (by Parisian standards) and include a tiny kitchen and a work area. Free coffee is available 24/7 in the lobby which is staffed with helpful people.

Conclusion

Have you visited Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris since its restoration and re-opening? Drop your suggestions for other travelers in the Comments below.

Love cathedrals? Check out my post on the Best Cathedrals in Europe to Delight the Artsy Traveler.

Mauritshuis in the Hague with skyscrapers behind it

The Hague’s Best Museums: Mauritshuis and Escher in the Palace

Museums, Arts & Culture, Destinations, Netherlands Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on The Hague’s Best Museums: Mauritshuis and Escher in the Palace

Last updated on October 13th, 2025 at 04:49 am

lf you love art, visit The Hague to tour two excellent museums—the Mauritshuis and M. C. Escher in the Palace. The museums are within a few minutes’ walk of each other and easily toured in an afternoon.

Drop into The Hague for a quick visit en route to elsewhere in The Netherlands, or stay the night. I chose to spend the night, which gave me the chance to wander around the mostly deserted (but safe) streets after dark.

This post describes some of my favorite exhibits in the two museums and includes recommendations for places to stay in The Hague and tours to nearby attractions.

The Hague Overview

The Hague (AKA Den Haag) is not a heavily touristed city, certainly not on the level of Amsterdam with its canals and gift shops and hordes of visitors. Instead, The Hague consists of ultra-modern skyscrapers and a compact oldish section with a smattering of outdoor cafés and an attractive wide canal that features a fountain.

On your way to the two museums, you’ll stroll through the park that lines the canal across from which is a palace. Most of the people you’ll encounter will be locals, many relaxing on the benches and enjoying the sunshine on clear days.

I visited in early April when the air was chilly enough to need a scarf and the planters bristled with daffodils and tulips, but the sky was blue and the vibe very relaxed.

At the end of the canal sits the lovely Mauritshuis, an exquisite example of Dutch architecture. To the left of the Mauritshuis, a short stroll through the park, is Escher in the Palace.

Mauritshuis

The Mauritshuis in The Hague is truly world-class. I’d go so far as to say its collection of Dutch and Flemish masterpieces is even more compelling than that of the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam. The collections are certainly a lot more accessible and easier to enjoy.

I love the Rijksmuseum, but its Gallery of Honor, where the most famous paintings are located, is so crowded that you sometimes need to wait for quite a while before you can get close enough to admire a particular masterpiece.

Not so at the Mauritshuis. The elegant building dates from the 17th century and was once the home of Count Johan Maurits of Nassau-Siegen who was the governor of the Dutch colony in Brazil. The museum’s name, “Mauritshuis”, translates to “Maurits’s house.” The building was established as a museum in 1822, and then extensively renovated and expanded over the years.

Entering the Mauritshuis Museum

You realize the Mauritshuis is special from the moment you enter. Descend a staircase (or take the elevator) from street level to emerge into a large and airy foyer complete with gift shop (of course) and ticket office.

The museum has recently undergone a face lift, and you get the feeling that everything is state-of-the-art. The museum’s website (https://www.mauritshuis.nl/en) bears this out; it’s a wonderful resource to accompany your visit to the museum.

Getting Tickets to Mauritshuis

I’d purchased a ticket in advance and I recommend you do as well. When I arrived about half an hour before the time on my ticket, there was no lineup to buy on-the-day tickets, but by the time I left, the lineup was quite long. To be on the safe side, go with tickets.

You can purchase tickets directly from the museum’s website or through GetYourGuide. Here’s an option:

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Favorite Works at Mauritshuis

With ticket in hand, mount the stairs from the below-street-level foyer to the ground floor of the museum, which features exhibits related to the first owner. The house itself has been beautifully renovated, so you feel like you’re not only checking out an awesome collection from the Golden Age of Flemish masterpieces, but also getting an idea of what a 17th-century Dutch mansion looked like inside.

Interior of the Mauritshuis Museum in The Hague
Interior of the Mauritshuis Museum in The Hague

You then begin a joyful stroll through a world-class collection featuring some of the best of Dutch painting from the 16th and 17th centuries.

Here are some of my favorite pieces.

Still Life with Cheeses, Almonds and Pretzels by Clara Peeters

Still Life with Cheeses, Almonds and Pretzels by Clara Peeters exhibted in the Mauritshuis in the Hague
Still Life with Cheeses, Almonds and Pretzels, Clara Peeters, c. 1615

I’ve recently discovered the work of Flemish artist Clara Peeters, and I am smitten. She takes the still life genre to a whole new level with her stunning depictions of objects and food. From Antwerp, Peeters is one of the best-known female Flemish artists working professionally in the 17th century. She was well known for the depictions of still-life paintings with food.

The Mauritshuis exhibits at least two of her paintings. This one features bread and cheese, pretzels and almonds rendered with a precision and warmth that is mind boggling. And if you look really, really closely at the pewter rim of the jug, you’ll see a reflection of Clara’s face. How cool is that?

Check out the cracks in the large slab of cheese that dominates the picture and marvel at how she depicts the shine on the glass goblet. There is an elegance to Peeters’ work that is rare, even among the many still life painters of the period.

In a room full of other still life paintings, her work stands out by a mile.

Homer Dictating his Verses by Rembrandt

Homer Dictating his Verses, Rembrandt, 1663 exhibted in the Mauritshuis in the Hague
Homer Dictating his Verses, Rembrandt, 1663

One entire room in the Mauritshuis is dedicated to displaying the work of Rembrandt, probably the most famous Dutch painter from the period. I was drawn to this painting as an excellent example of how Rembrandt excelled in the depiction of light and shadow.

The expression on Homer’s face is almost desperate, as if he knows he’s on his last legs and wants to dictate his stories before it’s too late. The way paint is so thickly applied to depict the folds and furrows of his face is almost modern. I’m strangely reminded of the work of Lucien Freud.

The room also features the large painting entitled Anatomy Lessons of Dr. Nicolaes, which is quite a bit more famous than the Homer one judging by the tour groups clustered in front of it.

Girl with a Pearl Earring by Johannes Vermeer

Meisje met de parel
Johannes Vermeer, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The Mauritshuis is home to one of the most famous paintings from the Dutch Golden Age: Girl With a Pearl Earring by Johannes Vermeer. She is undoubtedly the star of the show, and no wonder.

According to the Mauritshuis website, the painting is not a portrait, but a ‘tronie’, which is a painting of an imaginary figure or certain type of character. The girl is dressed exotically and wears a large (probably too large?) pearl in her ear. She looks over her shoulder at us, alluring and innocent at the same time.

I’ve been a Vermeer fan for years. He has quite the knack for capturing a moment in time that is poignant and also celebratory of the ordinary.

I’ve seen pictures of Girl with a Pearl Earring for decades (and read Tracey Chevalier’s marvelous novel) and wondered if seeing the real thing would be worth the trek to The Hague.

The answer? Absolutely! The “real thing” glows with a kind of internal power that cannot be duplicated. The color is more intense and yet more subtle than any reproduction. No wonder it’s mobbed!

Crowds of people in front of Girl with a Pearl Earring in the Mauritshius in the Hague

Man Offering Money to a Young Woman by Judith Leyster

Man Offering Money to a Young Woman, Judith Leyster, 1631 exhi bited in the Mauritshuis in the Hague
Man Offering Money to a Young Woman, Judith Leyster, 1631

Judith Leyster is another female artist from the period who is finally gaining the renown she deserves. The man is trying to buy her attention, but the woman works on, oblivious to his charms as she concentrates solely on her work.

The broad brushstrokes used by Leyster are very like those used by her most famous compatriot, Franz Hals. There is a looseness to her work that feels almost modern and very alive.

Kitchen Interior by David Teniers the Younger

Kitchen Interior by David Teniers the Younger, 1644 exhibited in the Mauritshuis in the Hague
Kitchen Interior by David Teniers the Younger, 1644

Some of my favorite paintings in the Mauritshuis are those depicting everyday life during the period. As an historical novelist, I really value these paintings as source material that give me a glimpse into what life was like back in the day.

This kitchen scene is replete with cool details, from the dead hare below the swan, the bowl of fruit, the mom looking exhausted as she peels apples, the boy holding the plate to receive the peeled apples and the dog in the middle of it all.

The various foods in the painting represent the four elements: the fish in the bottom right for water, the roasts in the background for fire, the game below the swan pie for earth, and the birds hanging above the woman for air.

Other Works in the Mauristhuis

Several other very famous works are included in the collection, including works by still life artist Rachael Ruysch (another one of my faves), Franz Hals, Peter Paul Rubens, and Jacob van Ruisdael, to name just a few.

You’ll also find The Goldfinch by Carel Fabritius.

As mentioned, one of the best things about this lovely gem of a museum is its compact size. While it’s chock-a-block full of great art, it doesn’t feel overwhelming. The rooms are small, the crowds very manageable, and there’s enough variety and famous images to keep you thoroughly engaged.

M. C. Escher in the Palace

Escher in the Palace is the second must-see museum in the Hague, especially for fans of the work of Maurits Corenlis Escher (AKA M. C. Escher), a 20th century master of perspective and illusion.

Never heard of Escher? Go the museum anyway! It’s very safe to say that anyone even remotely interested in art will be captivated by both the palace and its extensive collection of work by M. C. Escher.

It’s also a great place for kids, with some interactive displays and artwork that is sure to fascinate young minds.

Escher in the Palace facade in the Hague

Overview of Escher in The Palace

Housed in the former palace of Queen Emma, the Queen Mother to Queen Wilhelmina, the museum is really a two-for-the-price-of-one attraction. Not only do you tour several rooms on three floors filled with Escher’s works, but you also get an insight into opulent royal life. On the Escher in the Palace website, you can take a virtual tour of the museum.

M. C. Escher’s works give new meaning to the term “optical illusion”. They are astonishing and very well known. You’re likely to have seen such masterpieces as Belvedere and Hand with Reflecting Sphere (see below), both of which have been extensively reproduced.

If you went to college in the 1970s or 1980s, you probably saw Escher prints on a dorm wall or two.

Mano con sfera riflettente

Getting Tickets for Escher in the Palace

You shouldn’t have any trouble just walking into the palace and purchasing tickets, but if you like to plan ahead, here’s an option from GetYourGuide:

https://www.getyourguide.com/the-hague-l1267/entrance-ticket-escher-in-het-paleis-t29651/

Favorite Works at Escher in the Palace

Following is an overview of a few of my favorite works in the collection. These are just the tip of the iceberg. You’ll find over 120 Escher prints in Escher in the Palace, enough to keep you fascinated for a good hour or more.

Belvedere

The Belvedere by M. C. Escher at Escher in the palace in the Hague, the Netherlands
Belvedere, lithograph by M. C. Escher, 1958

I once made the mistake of buying a jigsaw puzzle of this piece. It did not go well. Although the image looks like it would be easy to put together, it was not. I ended up doing something I almost never do: abandoning the puzzle and then giving it away.

Belvedere is one of the most famous examples of an Escher work showing a three-dimensional building that is drawn on a flat surface but cannot exist in real life. As you look at it, you’re challenged to figure out what is possible and what is not. You could spend a lot of time looking at this image and trying to trace your way up or down a staircase. Good luck!

Convex and Concave

Convex and Concave by M. C. Escher at Escher in the palace in the Hague, the Netherlands
Convex and Concave, lithograph by M. C. Escher, 1955

Here’s another eye twister that will keep you up at night. The image is Escher’s depiction of daily life in a Mediterranean town (never seen a town like this!).

On the left side, you look down on the life and on the right, you look up from below. It’s an impossible space, but it’s really hard to stop looking at it and trying to trace a way through.

Lizards

Lizards by M. C. Escher at Escher in the palace in the Hague, the Netherlands
Regular division drawing with lizards, no. 25 by M. C. Escher, 1939

While I love Escher’s weird scenes and buildings, it’s Escher’s drawings of critters (particularly lizards) that really intrigue me. I could look at them for hours. The precision with which he renders the lizards and the way they overlap and interact is astonishing. You’ll also find plenty of other animal drawings, particularly of birds and insects.

Metamorphosis

Don’t miss the rooms containing some of Escher’s famous metamorphosis works. In these, Escher created a series of changing shapes, using many of his favorite forms such as reptiles, fish, insects, and birds.

A highlight is this large round piece in the center of one of the rooms. Walk around and around it to get the full effect and marvel at how Escher makes the transitions between forms so that you barely realize there is a transition until suddenly you’re looking at a fish when moments before you were looking at a horse.

Remarkable!

Metamorphosis by M. C. Escher at Escher in the palace in the Hague, the Netherlands
Large Metamorphosis piece by M. C. Escher

After you’ve toured Escher in the Palace, stop into the stylish gift shop. The attendants there were really friendly and helpful. I bought a gorgeous cashmere scarf, which I needed in the chilly April air. Note that the Netherlands is not particularly warm in the spring!

Carol Cram wearing a new scarf purchased at Escher in the Palace in the Hague

Staying in the Hague

I suggest staying in the city centre as close to the two museums as possible. I stayed at the Boutique Hotel Corona which was in an excellent location, although the room was a bit on the small side.

Other Attractions in the Hague

If you’re traveling with children, I highly recommend you go to Madurodam. I first visited way back in 1970s on my epic trip to Europe with my mom. We spent hours wandering around the miniature worlds. In the 1990s, I returned with my then-eight-year-old daughter who adored the place. The park has grown a lot since then with plenty of attractions to keep you engaged.

Here are a few tour options in The Hague from GetYourGuide:

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Conclusion

Have you visited the Mauritshuis and Escher in the Palace in The Hague? What were some of the highlights for you? Please share in the comments below.

Here are more posts about awesome museums to visit in Europe:

canal in Amsterdam

Exploring Amsterdam’s Anne Frank House and Begijnhof

Netherlands, Europe Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment on Exploring Amsterdam’s Anne Frank House and Begijnhof

Last updated on October 13th, 2025 at 04:50 am

The Anne Frank House in Amsterdam attracts visitors from all over the world, and for good reason. A visit to the secret hiding place where Anne Frank and six other people hid for two years from the Nazis is both sobering and inspiring.

With authoritarianism on the rise in too many countries around the world, Anne’s ordeal and tragic end are more relevant than ever.

Before or after your visit to the Anne Frank House, give yourself a sightseeing break by taking a stroll into the Begijnhof (#3 on the map below). In this tranquil courtyard in the middle of bustling Amsterdam, you can “set a spell” and enjoy a calming break. It’s the perfect place to either prepare for your visit to Anne Frank House or to quietly recover.

In this post, I describe my visit to Anne Frank House and share photos of the Begijnhof on a breezy, sunny day in April.

Trip map created with Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

Visiting Anne Frank House

Anne Frank House (#2 on the map above) is located on Prinsengracht Canal at Prinsengracht 263-267 in Amsterdam. It’s about a twenty-minute easy walk from where I’m staying at the Clayton House Hotel American (4) on the Singelgracht.

The entrance to the museum is around the corner, at Westermarkt 20. Tickets cost €16 for adults.

Getting Tickets for Anne Frank House

You can only visit Anne Frank House with a ticket you’ve bought online from the official website. Every Tuesday at 10 am CET all tickets become available for a visit six weeks later.

When I went online to purchase my ticket six weeks before my visit, only a handful of spots were still available. This was likely because I live in the Pacific time zone and many hundreds of people were out of bed earlier than I was and snagged tickets.

As it turned out, I got the date wrong, but more on that in a sec.

Entering Anne Frank House

At precisely ten minutes before the time I thought I’d booked, I arrive at Anne Frank’s house on Prinsengracht Canal in Amsterdam. I open my phone, check my eticket and discover, to my horror, that the date on the ticket is April 3 not April 8.

How did that happen? I’d marked the date on my calendar on which I could order my ticket months prior, and then somehow nabbed a 4 pm time slot on the wrong date.

Sigh.

Instead of turning away in defeat, I join the queue of people entering for the 3:45 slot and show my ticket to the attendant. With pleading eyes and my best I’m-a-stupid-tourist, self-deprecating smile, I tell him I got the date wrong.

He squints at my ticket, shakes his head, and then asks me how many people I am. I tell him one. He looks relieved and tells me to wait. He talks into his walkie talkie in rapid Dutch and looks concerned. Just as I am about to lose hope, he tells me to wait a bit longer while he scans in the rest of the people in the group.

After another hurried Dutch convo, he nods and says he’ll let me in. I thank him profusely, then enter the ground floor of the warehouse that houses the annex on the top floor where Anne and six other people lived for two years.

Previous Visit to Anne Frank House

I’ve visited the Anne Frank house once before—in 1970 when I was fourteen years old and almost the same age as Anne. I remember being profoundly affected by the experience, which was my first contact with the horrors of war.

I’d read The Diary of Anne Frank the year before, and like most young girls at that time, I’d identified with Anne.

Navigating the Displays

The Anne Frank House provides the visitor with a thoughtfully organized experience. After checking my coat, I pick up an audio guide and am instructed to point it at a digital access point in the wall in every room I enter.

Along with about a dozen other visitors allowed in, I enter each room, pause to listen to the commentary and then move on.

With everyone in my group listening to their own audioguides, the visit is eerily quiet. Also, visitors are not allowed to take photos, which contributes to a more relaxed and respectful experience. 

As I progress from room to room and floor to floor, the audio tour tells the heartbreaking story of Anne Frank and the other people in hiding, including her father, Otto, her mother, and her sister, Margot; the people who helped the seven people survive in their hiding place for two years; and plenty of context about how Germany invaded the Netherlands and mandated the persecution of the Jews.

Learning Anne’s Story

The first thing that hits me as I start listening to Anne Frank’s story is that Anne was only two years younger than my mom. When she went into hiding in 1942, she was 13 years old when my mom, living halfway across the world in a small town in British Columbia, Canada, was 15.

My mother led a long and very productive life, dying at the age of 93 a few years ago, whereas young Anne died in 1944. The stark contrast between Anne’s life and my mom’s really hit home. Anne should have been able to live a long life like my mother had.

Progressing from Room to Room

The rooms are dimly lit and feature displays about life in Amsterdam at the beginning of the war and the ever more onerous constraints put on Jews as the Nazi occupation continued. Quotes from Anne’s writings are used in most of the commentaries.

Several displays chronicle the preparations that Anne’s father, Otto, makes to take his family and the family of one of his employees into hiding.

The feeling as I progress through each room is one of increasing desperation and urgency. If not for Otto’s foresight and the help of people in his company, the Frank family would not have survived as long as they had.

Like so many Amsterdam houses, the building is tall. I climb several flights of steep stairs, pausing at each level to listen to more commentary.

Note that if you have mobility issues or trouble climbing steep stairs in very narrow stairwells, you may need to give Anne Frank House a miss.

Entering the Annex

Finally, I reach the bookcase that for two years hid the secret annex. 

The commentary now stops so people can climb the last flight of steep stairs behind the bookcase to the handful of tiny rooms shared by seven people for two years.

The rooms are completely bare now and for a few moments, it’s tempting to think they aren’t that small. Then the photographs on the walls showing them furnished with cots and chairs and a table bring home just how terribly cramped life in these rooms must have been.

During the day, the inhabitants couldn’t talk above a whisper and had to walk very carefully to avoid being heard by people working in the warehouse on the floors below.

It’s sobering, to say the least.

Ending the Tour

After touring the rooms, I descend to view more displays about what happened to Anne and her family after the Gestapo discovered the annex and shipped everyone off to concentration camps.

Anne and her sister and mother died in Bergen-Belsen Concentration camp, with only Otto Frank surviving.

I learn that Anne’s diaries were found by one of the women who had helped them survive while in hiding. One of the displays shows the diary (or a facsimile, more likely) with Anne’s handwriting.

In addition to describing the two-year ordeal, Anne wrote short stories and even started writing a novel. She wanted to be a writer and indeed is now celebrated as one of the Netherlands’ most famous authors.

Warning about Fradulent Ticket Providers

Here’s a warning on the Anne Frank House official website about fraudulent ticket providers:

Please note that there are fraudulent websites with URLs similar to the one used by the Anne Frank House. These sites are aimed at credit card fraud or the sale of invalid tickets. Tickets for the Anne Frank House can only be purchased through this website. Commercial parties offering Anne Frank House tours do not provide access to the Anne Frank House. 

The best a commercial tour can do is take you around areas of Amsterdam on an Anne Frank walking tour. Here’s one from GetYourGuide, billed as an introspective walking tour through Anne Frank’s life. Explore the Jewish history of Amsterdam and the horrors of German occupation during World War II with a local guide.

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Begijnhof

Either before or after your visit to Anne Frank House, check out the Begijnhof. It’s located about a ten-minute walk from Anne Frank House and well worth a detour.

The Begijnhof is a tranquil inner courtyard that is surrounded by 164 dwellings dating back to the 14th century and owned by the Beguines, a female Roman Catholic religious order. For centuries and up to the present day, only single women lived, and continue to live, in the houses bordering the courtyard.

The Beguines were women who dedicated their lives to helping the needy even though they did not belong to a church order. However, they took a vow of chastity and renounced their private lives.

The women who still live in Begijnhof must put up with tourists entering their courtyard to snap pictures. Fortunately, signs caution visitors to stay quiet and respectful and presumably the courtyard is closed to visitors at night.

Tranquil courtyard of old Amsterdam houses in the Begijnhof
A view of a row of tranquil old Amsterdam houses in the Begijnhof

House number 34 is a wooden house reputed to be the oldest house in Amsterdam, built during the 16th century. Informative plaques provide information about the inhabitants of the Begijnhof back in the day, and you can enter the two churches.

The 15th-century Engelse Kerk (English Church) was where the Beguines attended mass until the Protestant takeover in the 16th century when the church was transformed into the English Reformed Church. You can also enter the Catholic Houten Huys.

The Begijnhof is not what I’d call an attraction in Amsterdam. It’s more of an oasis, a serene respite from the crowded sidewalks and whizzing bikes in Amsterdam’s lively Centrum.

Taking time out of a busy sightseeing day to sit quietly on a bench overlooking the green lawn surrounded by beautifully preserved 17th-and 18th-century Amsterdam narrow houses is one of the best ways I know to get off the beaten path and just relax.

You can enter the Begijnhof for free between 8 am to 5 pm every day.

Staying in Amsterdam

I recommend the Clayton Hotel Amsterdam American (#4), a venerable old hotel with a gorgeous art deco restaurant, friendly staff, and comfy rooms. The location, about a ten-minute walk from the Rijksmuseum (#1) and overlooking the Singelgracht, can’t be beat.

Another great choice is Mokum Suites (#5) on a very picturesque stretch of the Herengracht and close to the lively Rembrandtplein. From your suite, you can watch the canal boats slide past.

The architecture of Amsterdam and its iconic canals

Conclusion

Have you visited Anne Frank House and/or Begijnhof? Share your experiences and recommendations in the Comments below. Here are more posts about Amsterdam, one of my favorite cities in Europe.