Seeing a concert that features opera and classical music ranks right up there as one of my top unique things to do in Rome.
When traveling in Europe, I love slipping into local concerts—often on a whim. A poster in a hotel lobby or a flyer on a lamppost is all it takes. Most of the time, it’s worth every euro.
That was certainly the case with the Great Opera Arias Concert by Opera Lirica di Roma at the historic Palazzo Poli. Located right behind the Trevi Fountain, this concert will delight you with an hour of pure music magic.
See the concert at 7:30 pm, throw your coin in the Trevi Fountatin at 9 pm when the crowds have thinned, and then waft into the Roman night to enjoy a gourmet dinner on a moonlit piazza. Now that’s what I call a quintessential Rome experience!
🎟 Full disclosure: I received a complimentary ticket to the Great Opera Arias Concert in Rome in exchange for this post on Artsy Traveler. Spoiler: I’d happily pay for this experience.
The Venue: Palazzo Poli
The opera in Rome concert takes place inside the Palazzo Poli, the grand building that forms the backdrop to Rome’s iconic Trevi Fountain.
The concert hall in the Palazzo Poli is high-ceilinged, air conditioned, and spacious with plenty of leg room between the rows. This is by no means a trivial benefit!
Over the years, I’ve attended more than a few of these kinds of concerts held in venues that were less than stellar. A few weeks prior to attending the concert at Palazzo Poli, I went to a concert in a tiny church in France where the pews were so close together, I had to sit sideways and the temperature was well over 40 degrees. Although excellent, the music couldn’t compensate for the discomfort and I left at the interval.
Be assured that you’ll experience the Great Opera Arias Concert in complete comfort. Another plus is the inclusion of several modern tapestry art pieces hanging from the ceiling in addition to a magnificent modern chandelier.
Here’s something special: the palazzo’s balcony offers a rare bird’s-eye view of the Trevi Fountain. Before or after the performance, step outside and watch the crowds from above—it’s one of Rome’s most unforgettable perspectives.
I guarantee you’ll not be the only audience member posing for a selfie before the concert begins. Here’s mine!
The Quartet: Pure Joy
The string quartet is led by one of the most enthusiastic first violinists I’ve ever had the pleasure of watching. At the beginning of the concert, she practically bounds onto the stage along with the second violinist, violist, and cellist.
Throughout the performance, her love of the music is amply evident. She conducts with such joy, her face often lit with a radiant smile. Her enjoyment is contagious and adds materially to my own enjoyment of the music.
Highlights include:
Marcello’s Adagio in D-minor, a calming opener after the bustle outside
Excerpts from Vivaldi’s Four Seasons, always refreshing in an Italian setting
A rousing Rossini William Tell Overture (Galop) that had the audience grinning (especially those of us who remember The Lone Ranger).
The Voices: Soprano & Tenor
The program features a soprano and a tenor, and both are delightful. Their voices beautifully fill the space and the cries of bravo and brava after each song attest to the quality of their performances.
The tenor’s performance of Nessun dorma from Turandot is particularly spine-tingling. I doubt there is a dry eye in the house by the time he hits the final heart wrenching note.
The Repertoire: Familiar Yet Fresh
What I appreciate most is the balance:
Beloved arias such as Nessun dorma and Bella figlia dell’amore
Lesser-known gems that expand my opera horizons
A welcome absence of overplayed staples like O sole mio and Figaro
The alternating structure—quartet-only pieces interwoven with vocal performances—keep the hour varied and interesting.
The Audience: Engaged & Enthusiastic
Tourist concerts sometimes risk being background entertainment, but not this one.
During the encore, I angle myself to watch people’s expressions as they listen to the music. Every face is rapt with concentration and enjoyment, and at the end of the piece, the standing ovation is genuine and heart felt.
Practical Details
Venue: Palazzo Poli, Via Poli 54, Rome
Length: About 1 hour starting at 7:30 pm
Booking: Reserve online; limited tickets may be available at the door
Tip: Arrive early to enjoy the Trevi Fountain balcony view before the music starts
If you’re looking to elevate your photography skills and truly capture the grandeur of Jasper, Alberta, treat yourself to a Jasper Photo Tour.
Guided by professional photographers Mike and Beth Gere, these small-group tours offer everything from wildlife and night-sky photography to early-morning “golden light” excursions.
Whether you’re a beginner with a smartphone or a pro with a DSLR, you’ll come away inspired — and with better photos than you thought possible.
We were lucky — we had him all to ourselves, which meant a session perfectly tailored to our interests and skill levels.
Julia, a crochet artist, wanted to photograph the miniature train she had crocheted against the sweeping backdrop of Jasper’s peaks. Mike happily accommodated, offering tips on staging, depth of field, and composition for her Nikon SLR.
Here’s how our luminous morning unfolded.
Lake Beauvert
Mike picked us up at our hotel, Lobstick Lodge, right at 8 a.m. and drove to a quiet vantage point overlooking Lake Beauvert, with views across the still water toward the super swanky Jasper Park Lodge.
He began by giving Julia a quick refresher on focal lengths and exposure settings while I wandered the shoreline, iPhone in hand, chasing reflections and texture.
One of my favorite captures from that morning was this twisty tree silhouetted against the mirror flat lake, mountains rising beyond like a watercolor wash.
After her refresher lesson, Julia worked on taking pictures of her crochet train in front of the view.
River Views
We hopped back into Mike’s SUV and wound our way toward a bridge over a rushing stream, stopping often to scout compositions. Although the morning was overcast, the moody light lent itself well to dramatic shots.
Mike showed me how to use my iPhone to blur the rushing water in the photo below.
Burnscapes and Renewal
Many of our stops took us through haunting burnscapes — blackened trunks from the July 2024 wildfire standing stark against a bruised sky.
Mike told us about his experience during the terrible fire that wiped out many homes and businesses in Jasper.
On a positive note, the residents of Jasper are rebuilding. Just over a year later, you’ll see evidence of the fire everywhere in the form of burned trees and vacant lots, but you’ll also see a lot of rebuilding, with almost all hotels and restaurants again welcoming visitors.
Wildlife Encounter
On the way back toward Jasper, Mike’s eagle eyes spotted elk grazing in a river valley. He parked and led us down a narrow path bordered by burned trunks, and pointed out a safe vantage point from which to watch a female elk pick her way across the river, her reflection shimmering in the current.
I snap a few photos with my iPhone zoomed to the max, but the results are just okay compared to the shots below that Mike took with his professional camera and large zoom lens. Beautiful!
Elk taken October 4, 2025, Mike GereElk taken October 4, 2025, Mike Gere
Looking at Mike’s photos makes me think about taking up photography with a decent camera again! Perhaps one day.
What We Learned (and What You Will, Too)
Even a short two-hour tour left us with a surprising amount of new knowledge — and confidence.
I finally learned how to use Live Mode on my iPhone to photograph flowing water, then apply loop, bounce, or blur effects.
Mike showed me how to dial in scene brightness before pressing the shutter — a small trick that makes a big difference.
Julia’s understanding of exposure, composition, and creative framing sharpened significantly during our session.
Even as a so-called “non-photographer,” I was given thoughtful pointers on framing and lighting. Mike has a gift for meeting people exactly where they are.
Tours on Offer at Jasper Photo Tours
On their website, Mike and Beth offer a well-rounded lineup of photographic experiences, suited to all levels and interests. Here’s a sampling of available tours:
Tour Type
Duration & Price*
What You’ll Do
Intro to Photography (2 hrs)
CA$210
A beginner-focused workshop covering fundamentals — ideal for newcomers
Night Photography Tour (2 hrs)
CA$210
Shoot in Jasper’s Dark Sky Preserve, learn long exposures, star trails, aurora opportunities
Wildlife Photography Tour (3 hrs)
CA$315
Head to prime wildlife zones, with more time to wait, stalk, and capture animal moments
8-Hour Icefields Tour
All day
Venture along the Icefields Parkway, glacier views, sweeping landscapes
* Prices as listed on Jasper Photo Tours’ “Book a Tour” page in Canadian dollars.
Mike and Beth keep groups intimate — no more than three photographers per tour, ensuring personalized instruction. And non-photographer companions can tag along for free.
Our Evening: Night Skies & Jasper SkyTram
Inspired by Mike’s encouragement, Julia and I decided to continue our photo adventure that evening by signing up for the Jasper SkyTram Night Sky Experience.
Jasper SkyTram offers special night-sky excursions on Saturday evenings in September and Friday/Saturday evenings in October — timed perfectly for sunset and stargazing.
As the sun dipped, the peaks blushed gold and pink. We walked around the boardwalk encircling the restaurant at the top of the SkyTram to capture dozens of shots of the spectacular view. Here are just a few.
Once darkness fell, we joined astronomers from the Jasper Planetarium, who had set up telescopes along the boardwalk. We gazed at the moon, stars, and almost glimpsed Saturn before clouds rolled in.
Inside the tram-top restaurant where we retreated to warm up with hot chocolates, I noticed several large night-sky and aurora images taken by Mike Gere.
In Jasper, everyone seems to know everyone. When we mentioned to one of the astronomers that we’d taken a photography tour that morning, he smiled knowingly — “Ah, with Mike? He’s up here shooting right now.” He pointed to the icy path leading away from the boardwalk and around the side of the mountain.
Why I Recommend Jasper Photo Tours
Tailored instruction – Small groups mean lessons match your pace and interests.
Access to hidden gems – Explore early-morning and off-the-beaten-path locations.
Creative learning – You’ll deepen both technique and storytelling through your lens.
Welcoming to non-photographers – Companions are free to join and still learn.
Dark Sky advantage – Jasper’s pristine night skies make for stunning astrophotography.
If you’re visiting Jasper, whether as a dedicated photographer or a curious traveler, I can’t recommend Jasper Photo Tours enough. You’ll leave not only with better pictures, but with a deeper appreciation for the rhythm of light, landscape, and creativity itself.
Best Season: May–October for landscapes; October for Dark Sky stargazing
Book Early: Spots fill quickly during fall foliage and aurora season
Final Reflection
As someone who usually points and shoots with an iPhone, I didn’t expect to come away from a morning photo tour in the mountains feeling so creatively charged.
But that’s the beauty of Jasper Photo Tours — they meet you where you are and help you see and appreciate the world in front of you.
For more about photography tours, check out my post about the photography tour I enjoyed in Rome a few weeks before traveling to Jasper:
Moms and daughters can make excellent travel companions. If you’re looking for a special way to celebrate your relationship with your mom or your daughter, consider a rail journey with Rocky Mountaineer.
Away from your daily lives, you can relax and enjoy each other’s company while you gaze at the spectacular scenery sliding past your window, explore interesting locations together, and soak up new experiences.
My Daughter and Me
Since my daughter Julia was five years old, I’ve taken trips just with her—from two-day visits to nearby Victoria, BC, when she was little to exploring England when she was 14, riding the rails around Japan when she was 18, and in recent years, exploring Costa Rica, Greece, and Iceland.
One of our most delightful mother-daughter bonding experiences has been the two journeys we’ve taken on the iconic Rocky Mountaineer:
Two-day Journey Through the Clouds from Vancouver to Jasper via Kamloops (2023)
Three-day Rainforest to Gold Rush from Vancouver to Quesnel to Jasper (2025)
In this post, I share my experience on the three-day Rainforest to Gold Rush journey I recently enjoyed on the Rocky Mountaineer.
At 8:30 am, we board the Rocky Mountaineer from a nondescript railyard in North Vancouver, not far from Julia’s apartment. Day 1 is short with just three hours on the train to cover about 90 miles. But it’s packed full of breathtaking scenic beauty.
We settle into our roomy GoldLeaf dome seats and start exploring the various comfort buttons. The massive glass windows arch high overhead, so as soon as the train gets underway, I feel like I’m floating through the trees.
West Vancouver
Within minutes, we leave behind the industrial rail yards and skirt Ambleside Beach in West Vancouver, one of Canada’s wealthiest neighborhoods. Moss-draped trees frame glimpses of ocean and gorgeous homes clinging to the cliffs.
We pass Bowen Island where I live (pictured below) brooding under the leaden clouds.
There’s so much to look at that I spend most of my time snapping photos and oohing and aahing at the spectacular beauty of this corner of the world.
I’m entranced—and I live here!
Along the Sea to Sky Highway
Even in a drizzly west coast rain, the route along the Sea to Sky Highway is stunning. To the left as we head north is the glassy expanse of Howe Sound and to the right rise sheer cliffs.
Food on the Rocky Mountaineer
The Rocky Mountaineer is justifiably famous for its food and hospitality. Two meals are provided on full days and one on the shorter first day. Each carriage divides its 70 guests into two sittings. On the first day, we are scheduled for the later breakfast. The next day, we’ll be in the first seating.
While we wait, we’re served hot drinks (the coffee is excellent) along with warm cranberry bread drizzled with lemon sauce. Around 10:30 am, the cheerful hosts invite us down to the dining car, where choices include eggs benedict, smoked salmon avocado toast, pancakes, and chia pudding (my favorite, pictured below).
Practical tip:
GoldLeaf service includes all meals, drinks, and snacks. Dietary restrictions can be accommodated if noted at booking.
Arriving in Whistler
By noon, we’re pulling into Whistler Creekside. I wax nostalgic with my daughter (part of the mother-daughter bonding experience) about my first visit back in the 1970s, when Whistler was barely ten years old.
In those days, we skied in blue jeans no matter how cold the weather got, and a day pass cost $7. Nowadays, a day pass costs around $300. Mind you, skiers now get access to dozens of runs on two mountains (Whistler and Blackcomb) instead of only the handful of runs available on Whistler at the time, so comparatively speaking, it’s probably still a bargain.
The sleek Creekside area looks much different with its modern condos, cafés, and shops. In 1973, I remember a gas station, a pub, the hostel where I stayed, and that’s about it.
Staying in Whistler
A fleet of buses whisks us to our accommodations. We’re staying at the Delta Hotels by Marriott Whistler Villages Suites, centrally located in the village. (Luggage is delivered directly to your room—a helpful touch.)
We drop our day packs and head out to explore. The sun bursts forth to burnish the fall colors of the beautifully landscaped Whistler village.
Whistler VillageFirst Nations SculptureUpper Village
Exploring Whistler
I’d hoped to visit the Audain Art Gallery but alas, it’s closed on Wednesdays. Instead, we explore the Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre in the Upper Village. The informative film and guided tour introduce us to cedar canoe traditions, animal pelts (the ferret one is unbelievably soft!), and the rich culture of the First Nations people who have lived here for millennia.
Squamish-Lil’wat CentreJulia & a Mounain GoatTwo Bears
We stroll back through the village to shop to pick up souvenirs for my great-niece and brand new great-nephew before checking in to the hotel. Our spacious suite includes a separate bedroom, along with a full kitchen and cozy living area.
Guided Activities in Whistler
If you have time while in Whistler, consider one of these activities. I did the zip lining adventure on another trip to Whistler with my daughter and can highly recommend it for those craving a bit of excitement. It was definitely a good mother-daughter bonding experience!
We enjoy dinner at Brickworks, conveniently located in our hotel. Since it’s off season, a dinner deal is offered—three generous courses for $45.
I start with mussels from Prince Edward Island swimming in a cream broth so good I want to lick the bowl. Next is perfectly cooked duck breast with potatoes and salad. It’s a lot of food and I struggle valiantly to at least finish the duck. Julia orders the chicken and is defeated halfway through her dinner.
Brickworks is known for its gin, though I opt for rum-based cocktails since gin is my least favorite spirit.
The server helpfully suggests we get our desserts to go since we are both full to bursting. I order the carrot cake; Julia orders the chocolate cake. They arrive conveniently boxed up and we return to our room.
With a six a.m. wake-up call pending, we get to bed early, although the excitement of the day keeps me awake until the wee hours.
Day 2: Whistler to Quesnel
We’re in the lobby at 6:30 am, and then out into the teeming rain to catch the bus. A 35-minute drive in the dark takes us to Pemberton where the train awaits.
As the sky begins to lighten, we see a group of schoolchildren waving us off, as they apparently do every week during the season. It’s a small, heartwarming ritual that feels very Canadian.
The train sets off and we prepare for a 12-hour day of gliding through some of BC’s most spectacular scenery. I’ve never traveled through the region north of Whistler so I’m excited to explore a new-to-me part of my province.
Lakes, Lakes, and More Lakes
We skirt the edge of Anderson Lake for several kilometers. To our left are craggy slabs of granite so close they threaten to scrape the dome as we pass. Trees sprout at unlikely angles, their silhouettes stark against the sky .
To our right the gleaming waters of Anderson Lake stretch to phalanxes of forested peaks disappearing into the mist. Occasionally, the sun breaks through to kiss the craggy summits.
Slowly, the dense rainforest gives way to dry, tawny hills.
Into the Desert
From green glacier lakes and dark green trees, the landscape transforms. Grey-green sagebrush tumbles down hillsides painted in twenty shades of brown—from light beige to rust red.
We are entering the great interior desert—an ecosystem that stretches from British Columbia to Mexico.
Every so often, I descend to the outdoor viewing platform on the first level of the two-level train. We are fortunate to be seated in the last car and so have a clear view of the rails speeding off into the distance.
Over the three days, I snap a lot of photos of receding tracks.
The Cariboo Plateau
By early afternoon, we reach the Cariboo Plateau. For the rest of the day, we’ll traverse this stunning region of rolling hills and big skies. We are taking the journey in early October, so the predominant colors are sizzling yellows and oranges, punctuated occasionally by pops of flame red.
One of the hosts tells us he never tires of this view because it changes constantly—from snow-capped spring to flower-bright summer to blazing fall.
Lunch today is a highlight: salmon with a glass of crisp Sauvignon Blanc for me, pork tenderloin for Julia, followed by lavender lemon posset and blueberry cheesecake.
Somewhere near Williams Lake, I doze off, rocked by the rhythm of the rails.
North to Quesnel
Golden aspens flash by as the sun dips low. Near Soda Creek, we pass through an area that in 2017 was the epicenter of a massive forest fire, one of the biggest in BC history at the time.
There is something immensely soothing about riding at a sedate pace along tracks so high they skim the tops of the trees. The views in the golden evening light are breathtaking.
Although I’ve been on the train now since 8 am and it’s now almost 6 pm, I don’t feel bored or particularly hankering to get off. What with getting up frequently to snap photos from the outdoor viewing platform and just relaxing and enjoying the view, the time passes pleasantly.
We’re told that our arrival in Quesnel will be slightly delayed so a dinner service is offered to those who wish it. We say yes, of course.
Sunset descends over the Caribou Plateau; the shimmering light providing plenty of opportunities for spectacular photos.
Overnight in Quesnel
We pull into Quesnel and see people waving. Our host tells us how generous and welcoming the people of Quesnel have consistently been during the twenty-five years that the Rainforest to Goldrush route has been running.
After disembarking, we hop on the bus for the fifteen minute drive to the Sandman Hotel. It’s located out on the highway so there’s not much around except chain restaurants, a 7-11, and a Walmart. We head out for a much-needed walk.
It’s to bed early again in preparation for a 6:45 am departure on day 3.
Day 3: Quesnel to Jasper
Morning brings mist, marshes, and forests glowing with golden fall colors.
The landscape inspires me to wax nostalgic (more mother-daughter bonding) about the year I spent in Mackenzie, a pulp mill town located about a hundred miles north of Prince George, which is on our route.
This forest is similar to the landscape I remember from that year. It was my first year of teaching high school back in 1979. I wasn’t cut out for life in the North and relocated to Vancouver to teach for two more years before quitting to seek my fortune in Toronto.
The rain blurs the windows, but the beauty outside still shines through.
Marshes, Beavers, and Quiet Contemplation
We spot beaver dams, shimmering lakes, and evergreens punctuated by bright aspens. Our hosts—Naomi from Ireland and Avi from Vancouver—share stories about the region’s history and wildlife.
Commentary is light, informative, amusing, and never intrusive. There’s ample time just to be and watch the world go by.
Drinks & Snacks
Between meals, the hosts circulate with drinks and snacks. I stick mostly to mocktails and soda water, although I try one Caesar (verdict: not for me).
Meals on Day 3
Breakfast is chia pudding again and lunch is melt-in-your-mouth beef short rib. Every dish is prepared fresh onboard by the carriage’s own chef—an impressive feat considering the train’s gentle sway.
Mount Robson and Arrival in Jasper
Late afternoon brings us to Mount Robson, the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies. As usual, a portion of its summit hides behind clouds, but the mountain is majestic nonetheless.
As we near Jasper and the end of our journey, the chef comes upstairs and serves us a freshly-baked cookie still warm from the oven.
For most of the journey, Julia has been crocheting a blue and gold train. She finishes it just in time for one of the hosts to show it off to the rest of the guests.
Time in Jasper
We bid farewell to the wonderful Rocky Mountaineer crew and head to our hotel, the Lobstick Lodge. The lodge is a good choice if you’re on a budget (like we are), but if you really want to splash out, check into the luxurious Jasper Park Lodge.
If you take the Rocky Mountaineer to Jasper, I recommend spending at least one full day exploring the town and surroundings.
On our last trip in 2023, Julia and I took a tour to Maligne Lake and Maligne Canyon. Unfortunately, Maligne Canyon is currently closed while Parks Canada assesses the fire damage resulting from the devastating fire of 2024 that destroyed half the town of Jasper.
Fortunately, Maligne Lake and the boat tours are still operating. Here is an option from GetYourGuide:
On this trip, we opted to take a morning photography tour with Jasper Photo Tours and then in the late afternoon took the Jasper SkyTram to the top of the mountain. We were blown away by stupendous views of the surrounding peaks glowing in the setting sun.
🌲 Top Five Reasons to Take the Rainforest to Gold Rush
Ever-Changing Landscapes – From misty rainforests to desert canyons to alpine peaks, this route is a moving art gallery of British Columbia’s wild beauty.
Unparalleled Comfort – GoldLeaf Service offers panoramic dome windows, gourmet meals, and hosts who remember your name and your favorite drink.
Slow Travel at Its Finest – No rush, no stress—just the rhythmic lull of rails and the joy of watching the world go by at a sedate pace.
Deep Connection – Whether you’re traveling with a parent, partner, or friend, uninterrupted time together fosters real conversation and memory-making.
Photography Heaven – The outdoor viewing platform and shifting light offer endless opportunities for iconic shots.
Practical Information
Route: Vancouver → Whistler → Quesnel → Jasper
Duration: 3 days / 2 nights
Season: Runs from late April through early October
Included: Meals, drinks, snacks, hotels in Whistler and Quesnel, luggage transfer
Dress Code: Casual layers; bring a light rain jacket for West Coast weather
Booking: Reserve at least 6 months ahead, especially for GoldLeaf class in peak season
Final Thoughts
If you’re on the fence about taking this journey with your daughter, your son, your spouse, or a friend—jump off the fence and book. You won’t regret it.
The Rocky Mountaineer isn’t just a train; it’s a slow, luxurious ribbon tying together nature, nostalgia, and meaningful connection.
Here are some more posts about my home country of Canada:
Rome, with its sumptuous churches, lively street scenes, and evocative Roman ruins, is a photographer’s dream destination. If you’re looking for a unique thing to do in Rome, consider booking a photography tour with Rome Photo Fun Tours.
With professional photographer Giulio d’Ercole of Rome Photo Fun Tours, you’ll learn how to take images that are well-framed, beautifully lit, and truly memorable.
Giulio offers some of the best photo tours in Rome, from half-day and full-day city walks to multi-day photography adventures across Italy. His group tours are kept intentionally small (no more than four people), or you can opt for a private tour, which I did. Giulio’s stunning photo of Castel Sant’Angelo in Rome is at the top of this post.
Giulio’s tours are open to everyone—from amateurs with a smartphone to serious photographers with professional gear. His tours are energetic, comprehensive, and packed full of valuable tips.
I recently joined Giulio on his Rome Churches, Angels, and Art Photo Tour, a 4-hour exploration that took me through seven of the city’s most photogenic churches and hidden corners. Armed only with my iPhone, I came away with sharper skills, a camera roll full of artistic shots, and a fresh perspective on Rome.
Full disclosure: While I paid for my tour with Giulio (money well spent!), I do receive a small commission if you click on any link to Giulio’s tour site and purchase a tour. Thank you!
📸 Photography Tour Itinerary: Rome Churches, Angels & Art Tour
Santa Maria Maggiore – Golden ceilings, pilgrims, and basilica grandeur
Santa Prassede – Byzantine mosaics
San Pietro in Vincoli – Michelangelo’s Moses
Santi Apostoli – Underground frescoes and hidden Christian history
Street Scenes & Ruins – Cobblestone alleys, ivy-draped balconies, and a taste of ancient Rome
Sant’Ignazio – Trompe l’oeil ceiling illusions and a year-round nativity scene
San Luigi dei Francesi – Caravaggio’s masterpieces
Sant’Agnese in Agone – Baroque ceilings on Piazza Navona
Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers – Sculptural storytelling
Why Take a Photography Tour in Rome?
A Rome photography tour is the perfect way to see the Eternal City through a new lens—literally. Instead of rushing from one monument to the next, you slow down, observe details, and learn techniques from a professional.
Here’s how my morning with Giulio played out, starting at 8:30 am in front of the church of Santa Maria Maggiore.
Santa Maria Maggiore
The crowds are already starting to swell at the security checkpoint when I arrive and meet up with Giulio d’Ercole, owner of Rome Photo Fun Tours.
It’s Jubilee year and a Saturday, so busloads of pilgrims have arrived from all around Italy. Many wear matching scarves printed with the name of their diocese.
Giulio leads me into the massive basilica and quickly gets down to business. He starts by showing me how to take a good picture of the stunning ceilings.
Giulio shares that he likes taking pictures of people and points out some church-related subject ideas such as pictures of people in the confessionals.
I’ve generally avoided taking pictures of people, so Giulio’s perspective is new to me. He tells me not to be shy, and over the course of the morning, I get bolder and snap a few candid shots of my own.
👉 Tip I Learned:Don’t be afraid to include people in your photos. Candid moments often bring a story to life.
Santa Prassede
We go next to Santa Prassade, a church that features several amazing Byzantine mosaics (my favorite kind!).
This church is less crowded, giving us more opportunities to compose pictures without jostling for position.
I learn “not to be lazy” and walk closer to a subject to take a picture of it rather than depending on the camera’s zoom feature to get a shot that lacks resolution.
Here are a few of my shots of the mosaics at Santa Prassade.
👉 Tip I Learned:Zoom with your feet. Walk closer to the subject for sharper, more detailed images.
San Pietro in Vincoli
We hop into Giulio’s car and drive over to San Pietro in Vincoli to see Michelangelo’s statue of Moses. Giulio explains how it was sculpted from one piece of marble and positioned to catch the light.
He talks about telling a story of a subject that takes the viewer from the whole subject to a series of closeups.
👉 Tip I Learned:Tell a visual story by moving from wide shots to close-ups. Create a narrative, not just a snapshot.
Outside the church, Giulio stops at one of Rome’s many water fountains called nasoni. I’ve heard of these, but never used them. He demonstrates how to get a drink and tells me how the city began installing them in the 1870s to provide a free and public water supply.
Here’s Giulio demonstrating how to get a drink from a nasoni.
Santimissimi Apostoli
This church is my favorite of the seven churches we visit. It is built over an early Christian church that includes many remarkable Roman-style frescoes. We descend below the altar and have the shadowy hallways and chapels of the early church to ourselves.
While I take pictures of the Roman-era paintings, I enjoy listening to the orchestra that is rehearsing in the main church above us.
Thanks to Giulio’s example, I am learning how to look for new and different perspectives, and so snap this photo of the cello cases lined up alongside the pews.
👉 Tip I Learned:Look for unusual perspectives and contrasts—details often tell the most powerful stories.
Street Scenes and Roman Ruins
On our way between churches, we veer down some lovely cobbled streets that hint at what Rome used to be like before so many of the buildings were turned into tourist apartments.
Giulio shares how Rome now is very different from the Rome he knew growing up in the 1970s.
Meanwhile, I’m learning to ‘not be shy’ and snap a candid photo of a priest walking down the street.
Millions of visitors are taking a toll on Rome’s communities. Many businesses have closed over the years and families moved out to make way for short term rental apartments, souvenir stores, and restaurants. Even so, Rome’s side streets are still magical. One minute you can be part of a throng of tourists streaming across the cobblestones, and the next you’re completely alone on a narrow street that looks like it hasn’t changed in centuries.
We pause to take pictures of buildings draped in greenery.
👉 Tip I Learned:Don’t just shoot monuments. Capture the everyday street details that give a city its soul.
We emerge on to the Via dei Fori Imperiali and while we walk past Roman ruins, Giulio shares his extensive knowledge of Roman history, particularly the rise (and fall) of fascism in the 20th century and Mussolini’s attempts to bring Rome’s glorious past into the present.
Sant’Ignazio
Giulio sets a brisk pace and soon we’re off again to the next church—Sant Ignazio. This is one of Rome’s more popular churches and is therefore quite crowded.
One of the attractions is the remarkable Baroque ceiling. Giulio points out the trompe l’oeil effects and explains how the black dome that looks like a dome at the beginning of the nave is shown to be flat-painted when we move to the center of the church.
We retreat to the quieter side chapels where Giulio encourages me to explore how light hits statues and to focus on only one or two elements.
San Luigi dei Francesi
I am looking forward to checking out the famous trio of Caravaggio paintings in San Luigi dei Francesi. With the morning well advanced, the crowds have increased considerably and I need to wait my turn to get a shot.
The light is too glaring on the central figure, but I manage to take a few photos, including this one. which is my favorite of the three paintings.
I’ve seen quite a few Caravaggios during my visits to Rome (most notably at the Museo Borghese) and have grown to appreciate Caravaggio’s use of light, the movement he imbues his figures with, and his depiction of everyday people instead of idealized figures.
Sant’Agnese in Agone & Piazza Navona
Our final stop is Sant’Agnese in Agone, where Giulio once again has me look up to capture the magnificent ceiling details.
We end a wonderful (and packed) morning by circumnavigating Bernini’s famous Four Rivers fountain in Piazza Navona. Giulio stops at each of the four statues and unravels the many clues that Bernini sculpted into the statues to indicate which river each statue represents. I learn that only the statue representing Europe has its face turned to the viewer.
I snap pictures of the blinding white marble against a very blue Roman sky.
Practical Details for Your Rome Photography Tour
Here’s what to expect when you take a photography tour with Rome Photo Fun Tours.
Length: 4 hours
Pace: Brisk—expect thousands of steps
Group size: Max 4 people
Skill level: Beginners to advanced
Equipment: DSLR, mirrorless, or smartphone all welcome
Insider tip: Don’t zoom—step closer to your subject for clarity
Final Thoughts
My Rome photography tour with Giulio was intense, inspiring, and absolutely worth it. I walked thousands of steps, took dozens of photos, and most importantly, learned how to see Rome differently.
Whether you’re a serious photographer with advanced gear or an iPhone shooter like me, this is one of the best photography experiences in Rome and a refreshingly unique thing to do in one of Europe’s most heavily touristed cities, Giulio adapts his instructions to every skill level and makes sure you leave with sharper skills and memorable images.
✨ If you’re planning a trip to Rome, don’t just take photos—learn how to make them unforgettable. Book a photography tour in Rome and capture the Eternal City through an artist’s lens.
Looking for a creative retreat in Tuscany where you can focus on your art or writing in peace? Then consider booking a week’s stay at Casale di Clio, an 18th century village house located in tiny Vetteglia, about an hour’s drive north of Lucca.
Here, you’ll find stunning views, cozy rooms, and inspiring spaces designed to inspire writers, painters, and poets.
I spent a week at Casale di Clio working on my novel while my husband, artist Gregg Simpson, painted in the “art barn.” The peaceful, jaw-droppingly gorgeous surroundings are exceedingly conducive to contemplative creative work.
We both left feeling energized, productive, and deeply inspired by this magical corner of Italy. And no wonder! Look at the view I gazed at while writing in my top floor room.
Highlights: My Stay at Casale di Clio
The Setting – Casale di Clio
In the charming village of Vetteglia—founded in Roman times—Casale di Clio offers breathtaking views of valleys and mountains. The retreat is run by Adrian, from Devon, and his Italian wife Tiziana (Tizi), who live in part of their thoughtfully renovated stone house.
Four guest rooms, each with a desk, are reserved for artists and writers. Three of these have their own ensuite facilities, and a fourth uses a bathroom a short way along the corridor. Guests also share a kitchen, dining room, library, balcony and terrace, plus the newly renovated “art barn” and are welcome to use the garden, where chairs and a sunshade are available.
Daily Rhythm
My week was a productive mix of writing, walking, and soaking in the atmosphere. Mornings at my desk with a view of the Tuscan hills stretching out before me led to some productive writing stints.
Afternoons meant terrace breaks, library time, and woodland walks to nearby villages. Gregg worked happily in the art barn, spreading out his supplies in a space designed for creating art.
Meals were a pleasure: cooking with ingredients from Tizi’s garden and the village shop, or joining Adrian and Tizi for homemade dinners. We also enjoyed excursions to Bagni di Lucca—once a favorite spa town of Mary and Percy Bysshe Shelley, Byron, and the Brownings.
The Experience
The week wasn’t just about word counts—although I did manage to write over 10,000 words. It was about reconnecting with my work in progress, finding clarity, and even weathering a rainy-day writing crisis with the misty Tuscan hills for company. Gregg declared the art barn the best studio he’s ever had, and I found myself more focused and inspired than at any other point in our European travels.
Final Thoughts
Casale di Clio is not a vacation spot—it’s a creative retreat designed to give writers, painters, and poets the space to work in extraordinary surroundings.
If you’re looking to escape distractions, breathe in mountain air, and invite the muse to visit, this Tuscan haven may be exactly what you need.
Full Journal: Day by Day at Casale di Clio
Saturday, September 6, 2025
After a twisty, turny drive up to the village of Vetteglia, we veer down a narrow road and park near an ancient chapel below Casale di Clio. Adrian bounds down the hill to greet us, then cheerfully hauls our luggage up to the house in a wheelbarrow.
Here’s the view up from where we parked the car to the Casale di Clio. My room’s the middle one.
Casale di Clio does not accommodate couples in one room, preferring to rent rooms to individuals. Gregg is in the Galileo room and I’m next door in Hildegard. Each room has a desk, cupboard, double bed, and small ensuite bathroom with a shower and toilet. Just steps away is another bathroom equipped with a large bath.
But we are not confined to our rooms! Retreat guests also have the run of the ground floor, which includes a kitchen, dining room, living room, library, and terrace. There are lots of places to work.
Living roomLibraryKitchenDining room
Gregg and I get settled, and then Adrian takes me and the other guest for a walk around Vetteglia and the surrounding countryside. Adrian tells us the village is home to about fifty people, including a few expats, some holiday homes, an Airbnb, and several Italian families with young children.
Here’s the view from the main square, which is actually just an overlook with space for a few cars to park.
We descend below the village to Adrian and Tizi’s large vegetable plot, enclosed by a mildly electrified fence to stop wild boars. Apparently, it doesn’t stop porcupines, which manage to do some damage.
Adrian and Tizi grow squash, cabbages, tomatoes, potatoes, and other crops. I sample a handful of cherry tomatoes the next morning—delicious.
Below the plot is a hillside that’s also part of the property and available as a place to bring a chair and commune with nature while writing, painting, or just thinking. The views are spectacular!
After our walk, I set up my computer and get to work. By the time Adrian calls us to a welcome aperitif before dinner, I’ve knocked out 900 words—a big win for me!
For most of the five weeks we’ve been in Europe in the fall of 2025, I’ve been lucky to manage 300 words in a day. I’m determined to buckle down this week at Casale di Clio and get a solid 10,000 words written.
I’m working on the first draft of a new novel, which is always the most challenging part of the writing process for me. Like many writers (perhaps most!), I don’t particularly love writing—but I love having written.
Gregg and I meet Adrian and Tizi on the terrace for a festive glass of prosecco and some nibblies. The third guest is tired and chooses not to join us.
We launch into a lively conversation and quickly discover common ground. Adrian shares his love of sports cars with Gregg, a fellow enthusiast, and tells me about the historical novel he’s planning to write. Who knew that the host of this writing/art retreat is also a historical novelist?
Tizi serves a tasty lasagna dinner followed by homemade fig pie with ice cream.
The welcome dinner is included in the seven-day retreat price. For the rest of the week, we have full access to the well-equipped kitchen and can also pay extra to have dinner cooked for us. I tell Tizi we’ll eat with them on Wednesday.
After dinner, Gregg returns to the art barn while I pound out a few more words and attend to email. The Wi-Fi is thankfully strong throughout the house—a relief after four days near Lake Garda at a place without Wi-Fi in our room.
Sunday, September 7, 2025
I wake early on our first full day at Casale di Clio, make myself a coffee, and settle on the terrace for a phone call with our daughter back in Canada. By 8:30 am, I’m back in my room and at my desk.
My goal is to write 2,000 words in one day—a lot for me. I’ve heard of writers cranking out many more, but I’ve learned to let go of envy. Writing is deeply personal: what works for one writer doesn’t work for another.
By eleven, the sun pouring into my room is too hot for me to continue. I pull the wooden shutters closed and go outside for a short walk. At every turn is a new vista, a new photograph, a new idea. I can see why Adrian and Tizi chose this place to live in and share as a retreat.
I make myself an early lunch and spend the afternoon roaming from room to room, terrace to terrace—writing, reading, and thinking. By mid-afternoon, I’ve passed the 1,000 word mark.
In the small library, I spread out research books on Van Gogh and his time in Arles. The first part of my novel is set in 1888 in Arles and features both Van Gogh and Gauguin, although the story is not about them.
By 6 pm, I venture out for a longer walk. Paths wind through the forest and across the hills. The afternoon light casts deep shadows across the Tuscan landscape, and I give myself over to the magic of this stunning area.
A brisk 20-minute walk takes me to a crossroads. I choose the far-left road and eventually end up in San Gemignano, the closest town to Vetteglia, where we’ll shop on Monday. Vetteglia itself doesn’t have any stores.
Back at Casale di Clio, I cook lemon-buffalo stuffed pasta with cacio e pepe sauce, plus a salad and tomatoes from Tizi’s garden. After dinner, I return to my desk and finally hit my 2,000-word goal.
Monday, September 8, 2025
I’m at my desk by 8:30 am and manage 1,000 words before breaking at 11 to walk with Tizi to San Gemignano.
She takes me through the woods along a track that likely dates back to Roman times. Tizi explains that Vetteglia was founded by a retired centurion who was given the land as payment for his military service. The path is steep and rocky but beautiful and very peaceful.
At the village shop, I stock up on food, including sausages for dinner. I walk back along the road. It’s a less charming route, but easier when laden with groceries.
The afternoon is low-key—reading, resting, and research—but by 4 pm, I’m back to work and produce another 1,000 words.
Gregg is equally happy: the art barn gives him space to spread out and work.
Tuesday, September 9, 2025
Rain and thunder roll in overnight. A rainy day for a writer is the best kind—but instead of cranking out more words, I waste the morning tumbling into research rabbit holes and existential doubt.
I at least take a break to film the cacophony of swallows swirling through the sky in front of my window. I learn later that they are having one last swoop through the village before winging off to Africa for the winter.
By day’s end, I’ve written zero words. Instead of beating myself up, I publish an Artsy Traveler blog post, answer emails, and Zoom with a potential publicist for my next novel, The Choir (coming February 2026).
Days like this happen despite the best of intentions. At least if I must have a writing crisis, Casale di Clio is a beautiful place to have one.
Wednesday, September 10, 2025
The rain lingers, but I’m refreshed. I spend the morning rethinking my novel’s plot and purpose. It’s hard work but necessary.
At noon, Gregg and I drive down to Bagni di Lucca, once a fashionable spa town. Mary Shelley edited Frankenstein here, and later the Brownings stayed by the river, where Robert proposed to Elizabeth. Literary history lives in these hills.
Back at Casale di Clio, Tizi serves us a dinner of risotto with courgettes and freshly foraged porcini mushrooms. I’ve never tasted mushrooms so good.
Thursday, September 11, 2025
The morning is productive, but our attempt at finding lunch in San Cassiano goes awry. We can’t find a restaurant, so we keep driving. The SatNav goes out, but fortunately the road winds down into the valley and back to Bagni di Lucca.
We settle at an outdoor cafe for lunch, where we’re joined by a busload of Yorkshire tourists. I enjoy listening to their accents (The Choir is set in Yorkshire in the 1890s). After drinking a cappuccino and buying a few groceries, we head back up the narrow, hair-raising road to Vetteglia.
We spend the rest of the day in our respective work spaces. I make more progress with my novel and feel like I just might see a few glimmers of light at the end of the tunnel. Can I sustain it? I hope!
Friday, September 12, 2025
I fill my last full day with writing and blogging. At noon, I walk to San Gemingnano and buy fresh porcini mushrooms from the village shop. Cooked in butter and olive oil and accompanied by a slice of fresh focaccia, they make a divine lunch.
In the evening, Adrian and Tizi drive us down to Bagni di Lucca for a farewell celebration—aperitifs at Café Italia followed by pizza. Thankfully, Tizi drives us safely back up the twisting road in the dark.
Here’s an admittedly doctored shot of Adrian and Tizi that I snapped in Bagni di Lucca and then put in front of a view of the Tuscan countryside.
Saturday, September 13, 2025
Final clean-up, final check for belongings, heartfelt goodbyes—and we’re off to the next adventure.
If you’re looking for a place to tune out the world and focus on a creative project in spectacular surroundings, Casale di Clio may be just the thing. Find out more information on their website.
Conclusion
Have you participated in a writing or art retreat? Share your experiences with other artsy travelers in the comments below. Here is a post I wrote about an art workshop with Italiana Tours:
For a truly delightful—and delightfully colorful—museum experience far from the crowds, check out the Ôkhra Écomusée de l’Ocre just outside the village of Roussillon in the gorgeous Luberon region of Provence.
Here, you’ll learn how ochre was mined and processed, stroll through a magical slice of Provençal countryside, and maybe even leave with your own stash of ochre pastels or paints from the well-stocked shop.
What is Ochre?
Ochre is nature’s paintbox: a clay earth pigment composed primarily of iron oxide, tinged with sand and clay. Its hues shimmer from soft golden yellows to fiery oranges and deep earthy reds. For centuries, artists and artisans have ground ochre into powders and pastes to color walls, ceramics, textiles, and, of course, paintings.
Look around Roussillon and you’ll see ochre’s fingerprints everywhere—the warm red, amber, and saffron facades of the village glow in the Provençal sun thanks to this mineral pigment.
The Origins of Ôkhra
Ôkhra grew from the ruins of the Mathieu factory, which shut down in 1963. In its place, the Conservatoire des Ocres was born, with a mission to preserve the region’s unique heritage and celebrate the alchemy of color.
Step inside and you can watch demonstrations, try your hand with ochre paints and pastels in the workshops, or even take a course in pigment techniques.
A Visit to Ôkhra
Located at 570 route d’Apt, Ôkhra is only 2 km from the village of Roussillon. The museum is open 7 days a week from April to October. Check the website for other opening times and for available workshops, tours, and demonstrations.
In the museum, you’ll wander past old machinery once used to crush, wash, and sift ochre. There’s something wonderfully tactile about seeing the story of color embedded in these hulking gears and troughs.
Afterward, head outside for a slow stroll through the grounds—part Provençal forest, part open-air gallery. When I last visited, a marvelous exhibition of photographs by local artists was scattered through the landscape, and the quality was astonishing.
Playing with Ochre
Back inside, the real fun begins. Long tables invite you to pick up brushes and pastels and play with color to your heart’s content.
An attendant is on duty, ready to share tips on technique or explain how ochre is transformed from humble earth to luminous pigment.
Shopping for Ochre
Ôkhra’s shop is irresistible—shelves stacked with every shade of ochre, as well as books (including a few in English) and artist-quality supplies. My husband, Gregg, a painter, couldn’t resist stocking up on jars of ochre pigment to take home.
Staying in the Roussillon Area
Roussillon is officially listed as one of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France—and for good reason. The ochre-hued houses climb the hill in a patchwork of reds and yellows, framed by narrow lanes and shaded terraces. Yes, it can get crowded, but if you stay overnight you’ll enjoy the quieter early mornings and the golden hour after the tour buses depart.
Hotels I Recommend:
Les Sables d’Ocre has been my go-to for decades. A leafy oasis within walking distance of both Ôkhra and the village, with a turquoise pool framed by pines and a generous Provençal breakfast.
Other options include:
La Maison des Ocres – Perched just at the edge of the village, this charming hotel boasts panoramic views of the ochre cliffs and the Luberon valley beyond.
Hotel Les Ambres – Located 1.5 km from the village of Roussillon and features an outdoor swimming pool and a tennis court.
Dining in Roussillon
Roussillon may be tiny, but it punches above its weight in culinary charm. A few standouts:
Restaurant David – Elegant Provençal dining with a terrace that looks out across the valley. Try the seasonal tasting menu if you can.
Le Piquebaure – More casual, with hearty fare and sweeping views from its terrace. Perfect for a sunset dinner.
La Grappe de Raisin – A cozy spot for traditional Provençal dishes, from lamb with herbs to lavender-scented desserts.
For a quick stop, grab a coffee and pastry at a café in the main square, and watch the swirl of village life pass by.
Things to Do Beyond Ôkhra
Le Sentier des Ocres – A must-do! This marked walking path winds through the ochre cliffs just outside the village of Roussillon. The colors—burnt orange, crimson, and golden yellow—glow especially vividly in the afternoon light.
Gordes & the Abbey of Sénanque – Just a short drive away, Gordes is another jewel of the Luberon, and the nearby abbey is surrounded by lavender fields in summer.
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue – Known as the Venice of Provence, this town is perfect for a day trip, especially on Sunday when its antique market fills the streets.
Wine tasting in the Luberon – Many nearby vineyards welcome visitors; look for rosés and reds that pair beautifully with Provençal cuisine.
My History with Roussillon
I first came to Roussillon in 1995 with my nine-year-old daughter. Back then, it was possible to scramble right up to the ochre cliffs (and yes, she rolled down them more than once). Her sneakers were permanently stained red—ochre souvenirs that even the washing machine couldn’t erase.
Today, access is more restricted, but the cliffs are still dazzling. With the right light and a camera in hand, you’ll come away with photographs that look almost unreal—glowing natural sculptures in shades of flame and gold.
Roussillon is a village of color and memory. Combine it with a visit to Ôkhra, and you’ll leave Provence not only with photos, but with the pigments of history under your fingernails.
Conclusion
Have you visited Roussillon? Share your experience with other artsy travelers in the comments below. Here are more posts on unique small museums in Europe:
Thirteen people gather under the Italian sun for a week of drawing, painting, and soaking up the beauty of Le Marche—a drop-dead gorgeous and under-touristed region that invites exploration and jump-starts the imagination.
I’ve been invited to sit in for a day at the Italian Sketchbook Retreat, run by Italiana Tours.
Under the direction of Australian artist Rod Moore, I hope to flex my drawing muscles—and maybe even conquer my fear of the blank page.
I can’t wait!
Arrival at Il Parco Ducale
I arrive a few hours before the rest of the group and settle in at Il Parco Ducale, the retreat’s base. This beautiful old palazzo boasts brick arches, foot-thick walls, and heavy wooden beams. There’s also a swimming pool, and the town of Urbania, with its charming medieval center, is just a short walk away.
The palazzo is next door to the summer residence of the Duke of Urbino, built in the late 15th century. The magnificent Renaissance palace provides a dramatic backdrop for the art classes, while the surrounding landscape looks as though it’s been lifted straight out of a Renaissance painting. Add a few robed figures in the foreground, and you’d swear that time has stood still.
What is Italiana Tours?
Italiana Tours was founded about ten years ago by Piero and Katie Pagliardini to offer custom art tours and retreats, primarily in Le Marche and Puglia. Piero, a local expert, grew up in Le Marche, where he developed a passion for nature, hospitality and art workshops in Italy. Together with the travel coordinator, Alex, they have been crafting tours all over Italy.
Each retreat is led by a renowned artist. The retreat I’m sitting in on is led by Rod Moore, the star of two Australian TV programs—Plein Air Painting TV and Yes, You Can Paint—and founder of the online Learn To Paint Academy.
Our First Evening
By six o’clock, the group has arrived. Together, we ride into Urbania for a wine tasting and pizza dinner.
At a cozy trattoria, we gather at one long table. The noise level quickly rises as people swap “Where are you froms?”
We’re a truly international mix, with participants from Australia, Belgium, the U.S., India, and me from Canada.
We sample three local wines—a sparkling, a white, and a red—all from Le Marche region. Afterward, we stroll through the quiet town, past arcaded buildings, to a pizzeria.
My All’Amatriciana pizza is spicy and delicious, paired with another red wine. Dessert brings four digestifs, including the ever-popular limoncello, served ice-cold.
Piero Pagliardini, host of Italiana Tours
My Day at the Italian Sketchbook Retreat
After breakfast the next morning, we assemble in the large breakfast room where tables are arranged in a U-shape. Rod leads us through warm-up exercises to prepare us for sketching en plein air later in the day.
I lose myself in drawing lines, experimenting with cross-hatching and stippling (new to me!), and studying values from dark to light.
Rod introduces us to the Rule of 6—breaking any scene into six basic shapes to capture the “big picture” before layering in details.
So we can practice breaking scenes into six parts, Rod has provided us with hundreds of reference photos on Dropbox. He also encourages us to use our own photos if we wish.
I flip through my photos and choose a quiet canal scene that I took on a recent trip to Venice to break into six shapes. It’s surprisingly challenging, and I quickly realize why the exercise is a valuable one for developing drawing skills.
The atmosphere is both relaxed and productive. Rod circulates, offering encouragement and practical suggestions. His teaching style is warm and approachable.
Afternoon Excursion
After lunch, we hop on the bus into Urbania for a visit to the Chiesa dei Morti. Excursions are part of the daily rhythm here. During the week, participants will visit the market in Urbania and Raphael’s childhood home in Urbino, and take a cooking class at a 12th-century mill.
I won’t spoil the surprise of what we found in the crypt of the Chiesa dei Morti—but trust me, it’s unforgettable.
While in Urbania, we stop to admire a view of the palace where the Duke of Urbino stayed when he was in town. Later in the week, the group will go to this location to do some plein air painting.
The Retreat Participants
Our group is a mix of retirees and mid-career professionals, some returning for their fifth retreat with Italiana Tours. That loyalty says a lot about the value of these retreats.
Some participants are Rod’s students, both in-person or online, while others are newcomers eager to learn. The retreat welcomes both painters and non-painters, with special outings for those not attending the classes. Here are some of the participants I got to know:
Tim and Carol, from North Carolina, are seasoned travelers. While Tim paints, Carol joins the non-painting excursions.
Rohit, from New Delhi, is one of Rod’s online students and has come for his first in-person workshop.
Marie is on her fifth Italiana Tours retreat, having attended in both Le Marche and Puglia.
Charles, a fellow novelist, is attending his fifth retreat as well, though it’s his first time painting.
Beeb from Australia is attending the retreat after spending five months in Europe, during which she walked the 900-kilometer Camino di Santiago.
Hans from Belgium is attending for the first time, hoping to develop his painting skills as he moves into retirement.
Several more of the participants tell me they’ve come because they know Rod’s work The group bonds quickly over shared meals, travel stories, and artistic discoveries.
Plein Air Sketching
In the afternoon, I attempt my first plein air sketch. Nervous at first, I watch as Rod demonstrates, sketching the six “big shapes” of a building at Il Parco Ducale with confident pen strokes, and then filling details.
When it’s my turn, my first drawing of the ducal palace flops. But with Rod’s good-humored encouragement, I try again, this time choosing a simpler subject.
To my surprise—I love it. The act of sketching outdoors, surrounded by such a timeless landscape, rekindles my long-lost interest in drawing. After just one day, I feel inspired to keep sketching (and maybe even start painting again).
Looking Ahead: Upcoming Italiana Tours
Piero and his team host around ten workshops a year, divided between Le Marche, Puglia, and Sicily. The retreats fill quickly, so if you’re looking for an artsy traveler’s dream week of creativity, food, and exploration, check out the Italiana Tours website.
Four of our thirteen participants came as non-artists, happily joining Piero’s curated outings—proof that these tours truly offer something for everyone.
✨ Takeaway: One day at the Italian Sketchbook Retreat was enough to fire up my creativity, reconnect me with my love of drawing, and remind me that sometimes the best artsy traveler souvenirs are the ones you sketch yourself.
Here are some more posts about artsy activities you can explore while traveling:
Arles is one of those fascinating little cities that rewards lingering. Sure, you can tick off the Roman arena and a few Van Gogh sites in an afternoon, but if you stay a few days, you’ll uncover so much more.
On my recent three-night, two-and-a-half-day stay, I discovered three wonderful museums in Arles. None of them are connected to Van Gogh (much as I adore him!), and each in itself is worth the trip.
If you love history, art, and culture, make time for:
Musée Départemental Arles Antique (Museum of Ancient Arles and Provence)
Musée de la Mode et du Costume
Museon Arlaten
Each of these museums provides you with a unique perspective on the fascinating (and very old) city of Arles.
And bonus: At the end of this post, I mention two art sites related to Van Gogh. If you’re looking for a museum containing actual paintings by Van Gogh, you won’t find one in Arles. Check out the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam and the Musee d’Orsay in Paris instead.
Tours in Arles
In addition to checking out the museums that I recommend in this post, here are some tours from GetYourGuide that take you deeper into this lovely city and beyond.
If you have the time, I particularly recommend the tour to the Camargue, so long as the weather isn’t too hot. I’ve toured the area several times, and had my best experience in October when I saw lots of flamingos with no crowds and no mosquitoes!
Musée Départemental Arles Antique (Museum of Ancient Arles and Provence)
This sleek, modern museum, a 20-minute walk from the center of Arles, was a revelation. I went expecting a dusty little collection of artifacts and instead found a world-class museum.
Roman Arles in Context
Arles was a Roman colony from the 1st century BC, and its position at the mouth of the Rhône made it both strategic and prosperous. Roman veterans retired here, trade flourished, and ambitious construction projects transformed the city. Many of the monuments—like the arena and theater—still dominate Arles today.
Museum of Ancient Arles and Provence Highlights
The Roman Barge
This spectacular 30-meter-long river vessel was discovered in 2004 in the Rhône and painstakingly reconstructed after three years of conservation work in Grenoble.
Seeing it reassembled—complete with the limestone slabs it was transporting when it sank—is breathtaking. A short film (with English subtitles) explains the recovery process.
Roman Artifacts
Thousands of artifacts have been recovered from the Rhône and are displayed in the airy, well-lit galleries.
Browse cases containing delicate glassware, household items, pots that look like they just came out of the kiln, and more.
Statues & Mosaics
The collection of Roman statues, including a bust of Julius Caesar, rivals collections I’ve seen in museums I’ve visited in Rome.
Most are in incredible shape, many having been preserved under the silt of the Rhône for centuries. The middle bust below is of Julius Caesar.
Several parts of the large mosaic currently being restored are completely intact. I have a soft spot for Roman mosaics, and this one didn’t disappoint.
The Museum of Ancient Arles and Provence is the kind of museum that makes the Roman world come alive.
Museum of Ancient Arles and Provence Practical Information
Location: Presqu’île du Cirque Romain, Arles (next to the remains of the Roman circus).
Tickets: Around €8; free for under-18s. Check if there are renovations—sometimes entry is discounted or free.
Tip: Combine your visit with a stroll through the leafy park that surrounds the old circus site.
Musée de la Mode et du Costume
Arles’ newest museum is a delight Housed in the elegant 18th-century Hôtel Bouchaud de Bussy in the heart of Arles, the museum opened only a month before my visit in summer 2025.
A Fashionable History
This is the seventh cultural museum opened by Fragonard Parfumier to showcase local traditions through perfume, jewelry, and costume. The Arles museum draws on the extraordinary collection of historians Odile and Magali Pascal.
Musée de la Mode et du Costume Highlights
Historic Costumes
Start your tour of the museum by viewing the exquisitely curated displays of clothing from the 18th to the 19th centuries The workmanship and detail are simply stunning.
The Arlésienne Costume
Several display cases feature mannequins wearing Arlésienne dress and show how it’s evolved over the past few hundred years. View the elaborate updos and lace or ribbon headdresses that women in Arles still wear during local festivals.
One of my reasons for visiting Arles is to conduct research for a novel set there in the 19th century. Many of my characters would be wearing traditional Arlésienne dress. Between the Costume museum and the Museon Arletan, I accumulated a wealth of information!
Here are some of the Arlésienne costumes featured at the Musée de la Mode et du Costume.
Contemporary Installation
Nine contemporary women don traditional costumes on screen, reminding visitors that these aren’t relics—they’re still part of living culture. I sat in the darkened room in front of the screen and watched the film loop three times–it was that fascinating!
Musée de la Mode et du Costume Practical Information
Location: 7 rue de la République, Arles (near the Place de la République).
Hours: Closed Monday. Open Tuesday–Sunday, 10 a.m.–6 p.m.
Tickets: Around €6.50; free for children under 18.
Tip: Pair your visit with a coffee on nearby Place de la République—you’ll be walking through the heart of historic Arles.
Museon Arlaten
If you’re curious about daily life in Provence, this museum is pure joy.
Founded by Nobel Prize-winning Provençal poet Frédéric Mistral in 1899, the Museon Arlaten was completely renovated and reopened in 2021.
Today, it’s a modern, interactive ethnographic museum spread over four floors of a grand 16th-century mansion that includes the ruins of the Roman forum.
Museon Arlaten Highlights
From Mistral’s original vision to today’s Provence, the exhibits trace how folk traditions have evolved.
Dioramas
Beautifully detailed scenes of traditional Provençal life are brought to life with interactive screens in three languages (including English). You can click on a number on screen that corresponds with an object in the diorama to learn more information.
Costumes & Textiles
Complementing the fashion museum’s displays, the extensive costume and textile displays focus more on everyday wear and work clothes, showing how locals dressed across centuries. I particularly appreciated this example of the distinctive Arlésienne hair dressing with embossed ribbons.
Music & Objects
You’ll find an excellent collection of musical instruments, with audio samples so you can hear their sounds, alongside tools, furniture, and crafts from daily life. Here’s the screen I brought up to explain the Serpent instrument.
This museum feels immersive, like stepping into a time capsule of Provence.
Museon Arlaten Practical Information
Location: 29 rue de la République, Arles.
Hours: Closed Monday. Open Tuesday–Sunday, 10 a.m.–6 p.m.
Tickets: Around €8; reduced price if combined with other city museums.
Tip: Don’t rush—there are over 3,500 objects to explore. Plan at least two hours.
A 2-Day Artsy Itinerary for Arles
If you’re staying in Arles for a couple of days, here’s how to organize your time so you can take in all the best museums, with plenty of pauses for food, coffee, and atmosphere.
Day 1: Romans & Van Gogh
Morning: Musée Départemental Arles Antique
Start your day with a 20-minute walk from the center of Arles to the Museum of Ancient Arles and Provence. Arrive when it opens (10 a.m.) so you can enjoy the galleries before they get busy.
Plan to spend about two hours exploring the Roman barge, mosaics, and the museum’s remarkable artifacts, and watching the fascinating film about how the barge was recovered from the river and restored.
☕ Coffee Tip: If you need a caffeine fix on the way, grab one at Le Café Georges (along Boulevard Clemenceau)—a local favorite.
Lunch
Head back toward the center and stop for lunch at Le Jardin de la Muette, a leafy spot not far from the arena that serves Provençal cuisine with a modern touch.
Afternoon: Fondation Vincent van Gogh Arles
Although Arles doesn’t have any Van Gogh originals, the Fondation Van Gogh celebrates his spirit through exhibitions that pair his works with contemporary artists inspired by him.
The building itself—a beautifully restored 15th-century mansion—is worth a visit. Exhibits rotate regularly, so you’ll always find something fresh. Expect to spend about 1.5–2 hours.
Van Gogh Walking Tour
Download an audioguide to take a self-guided walking tour of Van Gogh sites (the Place du Forum café, the Espace Van Gogh garden, and more).
I purchased the walking tour called In the Footsteps of Van Gogh: An Arles Audio Guide from Context Travel, which I recommend. Or, you can download a free auioguide at the Tourist Information Office. While you’re there, pick up their handy paper map.
Day 2: Fashion, Folk Traditions & Futuristic Art
Morning: Musée de la Mode et du Costume
Begin in the heart of Arles at the Musée de la Mode et du Costume. Spend 1–1.5 hours admiring the curated historic costumes and the beautiful Hôtel Bouchaud de Bussy.
Don’t miss the film showing contemporary women dressing in traditional costume—a lovely bridge between past and present.
☕ Coffee Break: Have a mid-morning espresso at Café Van Gogh on Place du Forum. Yes, it’s touristy, but sitting under the yellow awning that inspired his famous café painting is a must-do.
Late Morning to Lunch: Museon Arlaten
Just down the street is the Museon Arlaten, a perfect companion to the costume museum. Plan at least 2 hours to enjoy the dioramas, costumes, musical instruments, and thousands of everyday objects.
It’s immersive, interactive, and gives you an insider’s view of Provençal culture.
🥗 Lunch Tip: Stop at Chez Hélène, a casual Provençal café near Place de la République, for a simple but delicious lunch.
Afternoon: Luma Arles
End your Arles museum tour with something completely different: the Luma Arles contemporary art complex, located in the Parc des Ateliers (about a 10-minute walk south of the center).
You can’t miss Frank Gehry’s dazzling, twisting metal tower—the centerpiece of Luma. Inside are rotating contemporary art exhibitions, installations, and immersive multimedia experiences.
Surrounding the tower are landscaped gardens, exhibition halls, and a vibrant café scene.
Expect to spend at least 2–3 hours, especially if you enjoy contemporary art or photography.
🍹 Dinner & Evening: Stay in the Luma neighborhood and enjoy a relaxed dinner at La Chassagnette, a Michelin-starred restaurant with a focus on seasonal, locally grown produce. Or, head back into town for something more casual like Bistrot Arlésien.
Notes & Tips
Tickets: Some Arles museums offer combined tickets—worth asking if you plan multiple visits.
Timing: Most museums open at 10 a.m. and close around 6 p.m., with last entry around 5:15 p.m. Mondays and Tuesdays are common closing days—plan accordingly.
Walking: Arles is compact—everything except the Roman museum and Luma is within a 5–10 minute walk. Wear comfortable shoes for cobblestones!
✨ With this itinerary, you’ll cover Romans, Van Gogh, Provençal life, historic costumes, and cutting-edge contemporary art—all in two days. Arles truly offers a museum experience like no other in Provence.
Where to Stay in Arles
I stayed at the Mercure Arles Centre Arenes, a chain hotel with comfortable rooms, easy parking, and mostly importantly, a very convenient location. The hotel even has a teeny swimming pool on the roof with views over Arles.
Several times a day, I crossed the street from the hotel, passed the Tourist Information Center, and entered the narrow streets of central Arles. Nothing is more than a 10 to 15 minute walk from the hotel, including Luna and the Archeological Museum.
Here’s a map showing other options for staying in Arles.
https://stay22.com/embed/68b0be7f1d7732c5a6147a48
Conclusion
Arles offers so much more than Roman ruins and Van Gogh trails. These three museums—ancient history, local costume, and Provençal life—together provide a rich, layered portrait of the city and its people.
If you’re an artsy traveler like me, block out a couple of days to dive deep into Arles’ museums. You’ll come away with a much richer appreciation for this little city at the mouth of the Rhône, where history, art, and tradition flow together as seamlessly as the river itself.
Have you visited Arles? Share your suggestions for other artsy travelers in the Comments below.
The Ardèche Gorge in France is famous for its rugged cliffs, its tranquil river dotted with sets of gentle rapids perfect for kayaking, and its world-renowned prehistoric caves.
The natural beauty of the Ardèche gorge attracts visitors from all over the world.
If you love the outdoors, you’ll find plenty to do at the Ardèche Gorge—hiking, cycling, kayaking, and rappelling are just the beginning.
Even if you’re not into adventure sports, you can enjoy highlights such as the iconic Pont d’Arc rock formation and the spectacular Grotte Chauvet 2 (reservations essential).
In this post, I focus on how to spend a relaxing day in the Ardèche gorge that combines some sightseeing, a visit to the Grotte Chauvet 2, and time for swimming and sunbathing.
Getting to the Ardèche Gorge in France
Getting to the Ardèche gorge is relatively easy, as it is located about an hour west of the main motorway that whisks visitors from Paris to the south of France.
We started in Dijon, which according to Google Maps is about a four-hour drive from our destination—the Prehistoric Lodge near Vallon d’Arc. But since it was August and all of France (plus a good proportion of the Netherlands judging from the many NL plates we spotted) was on the move south, traffic on the Autoroute du Soleil slowed to a crawl.
Places to Stay
Here are some other places to stay in the Ardèche region. If you’re traveling in the summer, I advise finding a place that either has a swimming pool or easy access to a river or lake.
Staying at the Prehistoric Lodge near the Ardèche Gorge
After some wrong turns courtesy of a rogue GPS that directed us to a gated pathway, we finally pulled up to the Prehistoric Lodge just past 6 pm, only an hour before the reception closed.
We entered the gate code, drove through, and were immediately captivated by both the stunning view of the Ardèche gorge and the friendly attendant who greeteds us. After we parked, she loaded our suitcases into a golf cart and tootled down the dirt road to our “tent” for the next two nights.
Our tent reminded me of safari lodges I’ve seen in travel magazines. It’s outfitted with a sturdy wooden frame, a camp bed for our bags, a wooden bathtub, a surprisingly comfortable double bed, and even a flush toilet (tucked behind a less-than-private wooden screen).
There’s no air conditioning, but a fan did its best to move the hot August air.
Swimming in the Ardèche River
The best thing about Prehistoric Lodge is its unbeatable location right on the river.
After settling in, we pulled bathing suits over our sweaty, road-weary bodies and headed into the water.
Heaven!
I waded right in and was over my head within seconds. The current was mild so no worries about being swept into the rapids burbling away about fifty meters downstream.
Dinner at the Lodge
After our swim, we dried off just in time for dinner at 7:30 pm on the terrace of the Prehistoric Lodge overlooking the Ardèche gorge.
The food is excellent and beautifully presented: burrata and tomatoes followed by chicken curry for Gregg, while I enjoyed tempura prawns with salad and beef carpaccio smothered in thin slabs of fresh parmesan. We declined dessert but could easily have been tempted.
Our first night passed reasonably well despite the heat. With daytime highs of 38 degrees, the tent didn’t cool until around 4:30 am—just in time for me to pull a light blanket over myself.
Full Day in the Ardèche Gorge
Breakfast
With only one full day in the Ardèche, we decided to keep things relaxed. Breakfast on the terrace—coffee, orange juice, and a giant croissant—fueled us for our morning outing.
See Pont d’Arc Early or Late
We drove a few kiloemters further up the gorge to the famous Pont d’Arc, a natural rock arch carved by the Ardèche River. Arriving just before 10 am turned out to be a smart move; the parking lot still had 69 spaces.
The arch was impressive even in morning shadow, and the tiny beach beneath it was already crowded with families staking out spots for the day.
We drove to another lookout farther up the gorge to admire the classic sunlit view of the arch. Interpretive plaques explain how, for centuries, Pont d’Arc was the only river crossing, until Louis XIII ordered part of it destroyed to block enemy troops.
By the time we passed back by the main lot, the “Complet” sign was lit. If you don’t come early, park in Vallon d’Arc and take the shuttle bus instead.
Shuttle Bus from Vallon d’Arc
If you plan to visit the arch after mid-morning, I suggest parking in Vallon d’Arc and taking the handy shuttle bus. You can also rent an e-bike, although it wouldn’t be my first choice.
While the road is smooth, it is also narrow with a rock face on one side and a sheer drop on the other. And there is a lot of vehicular traffic, including large busses. More than a few times, I watched cyclists being passed with centimeters to spare. Made me shudder!
Ardèche Foefw Tours and Activities
Here are a few from GetYourGuide you could check out if you have the time and inclination.
Relaxing on the Ardèche River
Back “home” at Prehistoric Lodge, I changed into my bathing suit and settled under a tent erected on the riverside plage. Nearby was a truck selling snacks and drinks. The river itself was clogged with colorful kayaks heading downstream from Vallon d’Arc to the arch. It looks like a tranquil way to see the river.
Across the river people are rappelling from a cave at the top of the cliff to the riverbank.
Afternoon at Grotte Chauvet 2 near the Ardèche Gorge
To share its treasures, France built Chauvet 2, an exact replica down to the contours of the walls, mineral deposits, and every brushstroke, making it a must-see for anyone visiting the Ardèche gorge.
Afternoon at Grotte Chauvet 2
I go out of my way to visit caves containing art done by our distant forebears. On Artsy Traveler, you’ll find lots of information about my visit to the Caves of Lascaux, the granddaddy of cave art sites. I’ve also visited Altamira in northern Spain to view a replica of the Altamira Cave near Santillana del Mar.
The Grotte Chauvet 2 is just as important to visit, and of the three, is the hands down winner when it comes to how it organizes its visitors.
We booked tickets months in advance—absolutely essential!—for the 7 pm slot, but we arrive around 4:30 to explore. The drive up winds through dramatic gorges, and the site itself is modern, spacious, and well organized.
History of the Cave
The original Chauvet Cave was discovered in December 1994 by three local spelunkers—Jean-Marie Chauvet, Éliette Brunel, and Christian Hillaire. Inside, archaeologists uncovered a breathtaking collection of cave paintings dating back 36,000 years, making them the oldest known figurative art in the world.
If you’re an art lover, the cave art at Grotte Chauvet 2 nearby is a fascinating link to the region’s prehistoric past.
Over 1,000 images have been identified—horses, lions, rhinos, bears, and owls—rendered with surprising sophistication. The artists used shading, perspective, and movement in ways that feel astonishingly modern.
Because of the tragic lessons of Lascaux, where carbon dioxide, mold, and algae from tourism irreparably damaged the art, Chauvet was sealed immediately after its discovery. Scientists may only enter under strict conditions.
Exploring Chauvet 2
Before entering the cave, we explored the Aurignacien Gallery, which is a museum dedicated to life in the Paleolithic within the context of the Ardèche gorge.
Life-sized models of lions, mammoths, cave bears, and woolly rhinos stalk through the space, giving you an idea of the animals depicted inside the cave—and the world our ancestors inhabited.
Inside the cave replica itself, photography is forbidden, but the experience is unforgettable. Our English-language headsets automatically synced with our location, so we could wander the chambers at our own pace without missing a word of commentary.
The highlights?
A breathtaking panel of horses, with four animals in motion, their manes flying.
A striking pride of lions, the only known cave depiction of predators in action.
Huge sweeping scenes of mammoths and rhinos that seem to move across the walls.
Haunting handprints—direct connections to individuals who lived 36 millennia ago.
Here are some images from the cave included in the book I purchased in the very extensive gift shop. You can buy images from the cave on everything from tea towels to fridge magnets, and get stuffed versions of many of the animals.
As you explore, keep an eye out for local wildlife; the Ardèche Gorge is home to diverse species.
Touring Grotte Chauvet 2 is a remarkable experience not to be missed.
Practical Information for Visiting Grotte Chauvet 2
Location: Grotte Chauvet 2 is about 15 minutes by car from Vallon d’Arc.
Opening hours: Daily, but hours vary by season—typically 9 am–7 pm in summer.
Tickets: €18 per adult, €9.50 for children 10–17 (under 10 free). Family passes are available. Advance booking online is essential, especially in summer. Hint: If you arrive early, check to see if you can change the time of your cave tour. We arrived at 4:30 for a 7 pm slot and were given the 5:30 pm slot which suited us perfectly.
Other facilities: A café for snacks and light meals, gift shop, picnic areas, and the excellent museum. Plan 3–4 hours to fully enjoy everything.
Wrapping Up
On our way back to Prehistoric Lodge after our cave tour, we stop at a pizzeria just outside Vallon d’Arc and enjoyed an excellent pizza and two cold beers.
It’s dusk by the time we return, and the river is quiet. There’s time for one last swim before the sun disappears. We sink gratefully into the cool water, then spend time chatting with a young couple from the Netherlands.
If You Go: Ardèche Essentials
Best Time to Visit: Spring (May–June) and early fall (September) for pleasant temperatures and fewer crowds. July–August is lively but very hot and crowded.
Where to Stay: Prehistoric Lodge (rustic luxury tents right on the river, 5 minutes from Pont d’Arc). Book early in summer.
Getting There: Vallon d’Arc is about 2.5 hours from Lyon, 3.5 hours from Marseille, and 4 hours from Dijon. You’ll need a car to explore.
What to Pack: Swimsuit, water shoes for river swimming, light layers for hot days and cool nights, sunhat, refillable water bottle, and sturdy shoes if you plan to hike.
Don’t Miss:
Morning or late-afternoon visit to Pont d’Arc before parking fills.
A lazy swim or kayak trip on the Ardèche River.
Afternoon tour at Grotte Chauvet 2 (book months in advance).
Pont d’Arc: Parking €10/day in summer; shuttle bus from Vallon d’Arc if lots are full.
Conclusion
If you have just two nights and a day in the Ardèche, combine river swims and views of Pont d’Arc with an afternoon and early evening at Chauvet 2. It’s the perfect blend of natural wonder, outdoor adventure, and deep cultural history.
Have you visited the Ardèche region? What are your recommendations for other artsy travelers? Please share them in the Comments below.
Here are some more Artsy Traveler posts about natural wonders I’ve enjoyed visiting in Europe:
If you’re looking for a modern art fix while traveling down the Rhine, make your way to Museum Ludwig in Cologne, Germany.
This museum of modern art close to Cologne Cathedral houses one of Europe’s most significant collections of modern and contemporary art.
The early 20th century collection at Museum Ludwig is particularly fabulous, with paintings and artists organized into movements—expressionism, cubism, abstraction, surrealism, and so on. You’ll find masterpieces by pretty much every big name in 20th century art including Picasso, Ernst, and Dali, along with some superb examples of German expressionism.
Also notable is how many of the artworks were created by women. In recent years, I’ve noticed many more women artists represented in major art galleries, something that was a rarity not so long ago.
At the Ludwig Museum, I discovered some old favorites and some new-to-me gems. Here’s a curated tour featuring some of the many pieces I admired.
Niki de Saint Phalle – Black Nana, 1968/69
You’re greeted in the foyer of Museum Ludwig by one of Niki de Saint Phalle’s voluptuously joyous figures from her Nana series. Nana’s exuberant curves and playful patterns feel like art giving you a high-five.
Note: Niki de Saint Phalle’s work is being featured a lot these days. In 2025, I saw two special exhibitions of her work—one in Quebec City and the other at the Caumont in Aix-en-Provence. If you’re headed to Italy, check out Giardino Tarocchi (Tarot Garden) near Grossetto about 2 hours north or Rome.
The work of Natalia Gontscharowa is new to me and wow! She was one of the leading figures in the Russian avant-garde, living in Russia until 1921 when she moved to Paris. She also became a member of Der Blaue Reiter group in Germany.
This wonderful nude is a rebellious take on Slavic folklore. The woman looks straight at us, uncowed and strong.
Sonia Delaunay-Terk – Colour Rhythm, 1968
Sonia Delaunay-Terk turns geometry into a dance with this presentation of colourful circles and rectangles. The abstract energy in her work makes me smile.
Ursula -The Trees, 1985
Several works by Ursula are featured in one of the rooms at Museum Ludwig.
A self-taught artist, Ursula resists categorization into a particular style. Her work is based on observations of everyday life and on stories or myths, and reflects her own emotional states. Describing her work, Ursula wrote: “I impose my visions on reality—I’m completely artificial.”
All the works in the room are strangely compelling, some even fantastical. I particularly liked The Trees for the way it depicts strange, cactus-like foliage and how she uses contrasting colours.
Francis Picabia – The Bride, 1929
I’m pretty new to the work of Picabia, but I’m liking what I see. He was a French avant-garde painter, writer, filmmaker, publisher, and poet, and was closely associated with the Dada movement.
His work has been described as “shape-shifting” or “kaleidoscopic”, both elements I clearly see in The Bride. The more you look at it, the more you see new shapes that seem to morph and shift before your eyes.
Paul Klee – Highway and Byways, 1929
I’m a big Paul Klee fan and this piece is a beauty. Check out how the linear paths trace both detours and destinations. The piece is like a poetic map of introspection. There is much detail to fixate on.
On my artsy traveler list of museums to visit in Europe is Zentrum Paul Klee in Bern, Switzerland.
Piet Mondrian – Painting II, 1921
No serious collection of 20th century art would be complete without one of Mondrian’s iconic minimalist abstracts. His work is still the very definition of modernism.
René Magritte – The Giantess, 1929-1931
I’d not seen this Magritte before, although Gregg (husband and also visual artist) tells me it a very famous one.
The giantess is so perfectly giant in the way she effortlessly dominates the room, with the tiny man in the corner looking lost. What an imagination Magritte had!
Richard Oelze – Growing Silence, 1961
There’s so much to look at in this painting, which combines elements of both the ancient and the modern.
I see echoes of Bosch in the weird figures and the tones Oelze uses, but also of Max Ernst, one of my favorite surrealists.
Known as the forgotten German surrealist, Oelze’s work is gaining more recognition in recent years with his inclusion in several major surrealist exhibitions.
Max Ernst – Song of the Cicadas to the Moon, 1954
Museum Ludwig includes several excellent paintings by Max Ernst in its collection. I like this one because it’s an example of his use of decalcomania and frottage to create the complex and detailed patterns that swirl through the green and blue foreground.
Fernand Léger – ThePicnic, 1954
Léger’s the master when it comes to creating paintings that are both whimsical and bold. His work is so marvelously distinctive.
This piece uses a greater variety of colours than I’ve been used to seeing in his work. I’m loving his weird trees!
Ljubow Popowa – Portrait of a Woman, 1915
Ljubow Popowa is another new-to-me avant-garde artist from Russia. She was one of the first pioneers of cubo-futurism in a style she called painterly architectonics, which I think perfectly describes this work.
André Derain – View of Saint‑Paul‑de‑Vence, 1910
Derain’s fauvist palette energizes this view of the charming village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence in the south of France.
August Macke – Lady in a Green Jacket, 1913
It’s Macke’s use of vivid colour that is so compelling in this lovely painting. I find it both calm and exciting at the same time.
David Hockney – Sunbather, 1966
I’m a big fan of the work of David Hockney, particularly his later landscapes. This painting from the 1960s is emblematic of his earlier style, and feels very nostalgic.
Gerhard Richter – War (Abstract No. 484), 1981
This vibrant abstract by Gerhard Richter practically jumped off the wall. I was drawn to it immediately.
Willem de Kooning – Untitled VII, 1984
The fierce, gestural strokes captures so much movements with a colour palette and spaciousness that I don’t associate with de Kooning, but that I really like.
More Collections
On the bottom floor of the building are several rooms housing the latest exhibitions of contemporary art. I made a quick tour through, but this time didn’t see anything that intrigued me.
Museum Ludwig also has some lovely rooms full of sculptures, and the museum itself feels light and airy. Don’t miss stepping out on the terrace to view Cologne Cathedral where the picture at the top of this post was taken.
Practical Information
Location: Right next to the Cologne Cathedral—easy to find and impossible to miss.
What to expect: A sprawling, dynamic museum featuring an extensive collection of works in most 20th century styles, including expressionism, surrealism, cubism, and abstraction, with a good representation of female artists.
Tip: Go slow. This collection rewards time—each canvas is its own story.
Hours: Tuesday – Sunday (including public holidays): 10 am – 6 pm and opening from 10 am to 10 pm on every 1st Thursday. The museum is closed on Mondays.
Ticket price: € 11,00.
Visiting the City of Cologne
Cologne makes a great home base for exploring the region. Check out the massive Cologne Cathedral and then take a stroll along the Rhine. Consider staying at one of the hotels overlooking the river.
Another excellent museum that I’ve visited in Cologne is the Romano-Germanic Museum, which is next door to the Ludwig Museum. At present, the museum is closed for renovations, so the collection is on display at Belgian House at Cäcilienstraße 46 (near Neumarkt).
While staying in Cologne, you can also take a train south to Bonn to tour the Beethoven-Haus museum.
Here are some other activities on GetYourGuide:
Staying in Cologne
Choose one of the hotels facing the Rhine River and close to the major sites including Museum Ludwig and Cologne Cathedral.
Here are some options:
Conclusion
I’d rank Museum Ludwig right up there with the top modern art museums in Europe including the Tate Modern in London and the Pompidou in Paris. Have you visited? Share your recommendations for other artsy travelers in the comments below.
Here are some more posts about art museums in Europe:
