England is so full of artsy sites and experiences that you’d need a lifetime to explore them all!
Visit the many sites dedicated to great writers such as Shakespeare, Jane Austen, and Wordsworth; tour fabulous stately homes steeped in history; visit some of the world’s loveliest gardens, and of course check out world-class theater in London.
And that’s just scratching the surface of all that England has to offer. This page provides a short introduction to one of my favorite countries.
See a performance at the Royal Shakespeare Company (RSC) in Stratford-upon-Avon
Visit Durham Cathedral in northern England, still my favorite cathedral ever
Stay in the heart of London and see a musical at a west end theater
My Relationship to England
England has played a major role in my life since I first visited in 1970 on my epic European trip with my mom.
Four years later, at the age of eighteen, I returned to England with two friends and circumnavigated it by train–traveling from London up the east coast to Scotland and down the west coast to Wales and all the way to Land’s End in Cornwall.
We stayed in youth hostels and cheap B&Bs and had a marvelous time!
On Dover Hill in the Cotswolds
My love affair with England was only beginning. I stayed in England for four years–earning my B.A. in English Literature from Reading University and then completing an education certification at Durham University. During those years and on subsequent trips, I saw a great deal of England.
In recent years, I’ve returned several times to England and always find new things to see and to write about.
Favorite Places in England
The map below pinpoints my top ten favorite places in England.
If you’re planning a trip to England, consider including these places in your itinerary. I suggest focusing on the south and southwest in Dorset, Devon, and Cornwall, then visiting Oxford, Stratford-upon-Avon and the Cotswolds before heading north to spend time in York, Durham, and the Lake District (Keswick makes a good home base).
This map was made with Wanderlog, a road trip planner app on iOS and Android
Practical Tips for Travel in England
Here’s where I cover some of the basics of visiting England–when to visit, checking events, transportation, accommodations, and food.
When to Visit England
English weather does not have a great reputation. For much of the year, it’s rainy, grey, and kind of chilly. But even on the wettest days, I’ve discovered that England’s weather can surprise and delight.
Many times I’ve set off in the rain in the morning and spent the afternoon in glorious sunshine (and vice versa). Take an umbrella and dress in layers and England’s weather shouldn’t slow you down.
That said, the best times to visit England are in the late spring, summer and early fall. Darkness falls quite early in the winter and often attractions are closed or have limited hours.
Lately, summers have been uncharacteristically hot which is a problem because most places in England are not air conditioned.
Check Events and Exhibitions
Before you visit England, check online for exhibitions and performances. Also be on the lookout for local festivals.
You’ll definitely want to check what’s playing in the West End while you’re in London. Find listings on websites such as London Theatre Direct and London Theatre, and then book directly with the theatre.
A revival of My Fair Lady in London was first-rate
I almost always get better seats at more reasonable prices when I book with the theatre than if I go through one of the big resellers. But checking the big websites is the best way to figure out what you want to see.
On one of my recent trips to England, I saw four performances in three days: My Fair Lady, Six: The Musical, and Jersey Boys in London, and Richard III performed by the Royal Shakespeare Company in Stratford-upon-Avon. Each performance was first-rate and worth every penny.
And speaking of money, theatre performances in London are remarkably reasonable compared to their counterparts in New York. I paid on average about £50 to £80 for excellent seats at each performance. If you want to be “up in the clouds,” you will pay a lot less.
And while you’re in London, visit Shakespeare’s Globe. If you can’t get tickets for a performance (recommended), at least take one of the guided tours of the theater. I’ve taken them twice and learned a lot!
England is not a large country and it’s easy to travel around by public transit, although not quite as easy as it was back in 1974! Many train routes have been closed over the years, particularly those in rural areas. But getting from city to city by train is still fast, efficient, and relatively inexpensive.
Take the Train!
If you’re 60 or older, consider purchasing a Senior Railcard. You get a considerable discount on train journeys; the cost of the railcard easily pays for itself with just a few trips. Check the UK Railcard website for information about the senior and other cards.
Driving in England? Maybe not.
When I lived in England back in the 1970s, I drove everywhere and was perfectly fine. However, first, I was young and intrepid, and second, the traffic was a LOT less insane back then.
I really don’t recommend driving in England. There are just too many cars on the road; the number and complexity of routes and roads are mind-boggling, and let’s face it, if you’re a North American, driving on the left is challenging, to say the least.
Now, if you’re visiting Scotland or Ireland, then I say go for it. Driving in those countries (with the exception of Dublin–don’t even think about it) is a pleasure.
A good strategy when visiting England is to fly to London, enjoy one of the world’s great cities for at least three days (and preferably more), and then take the train west to Oxford, Stratford-upon-Avon, and Bath, and north to York, Durham, and the Lake District.
Trains in the UK are generally efficient and relatively inexpensive
In London, take cabs, Ubers, the Underground, or busses!
Small Group Tours
Consider home basing in cities such as Bath and York, and then taking small group tours to explore the countryside.
I took a small group tour of the Cotswolds from Stratford-upon-Avon and had a lovely, relaxing day. If I’d tried to explore the area on my own by car, I don’t think I’d have seen half as much, and certainly my blood pressure would have suffered. Here’s Go Cotswolds tour to consider:
England is a safe country to travel in. I’ve traveled solo several times in England and never worried. Just use common sense, and if you feel worried, take an Uber. They are all over the UK!
Staying in England
England, and London in particular, is not an inexpensive place to travel. However, you do get good value for your money, in my experience.
Expect to pay £250-300 or more for a centrally located, good-quality hotel room in London. I suggest you resist the temptation to choose cheap accommodation outside the city center. You’ll waste time and money traveling into London, and probably see more of the Underground than is conducive to interesting travel.
London
Here are good bets in central London:
Wilde Aparthotel in Covent Garden could not be more central–five minutes from Trafalgar Square, five minutes from the theaters (and some were just across the street), five minutes from Covent Garden, and short bus rides from just about everything you’d want to see in London.
The Park Plaza Victoria London Hotel is well-located just across the street from Victoria Station and excellent deal for a modern, four-star hotel in the heart of London.
The Cavendish near Green Park is in a posh area and close to just about everything.
The ParkCity in Kensington is convenient to London’s awesome museums.
Click on the map below to find more hotels in London.
In the rest of England, I tend to favor small hotels or B & B’s. Here are some places I’ve stayed in and recommend:
Pen and Parchment in Stratford-upon-Avon: Close to the RSC, comfortable rooms, great food in the pub
Malmaison in Reading: Stylish and very close to the station in the center of Reading
Cotswold Lodge Hotel in Oxford: Country hotel, fairly central, and with good dining rom
Jorvik House in York: on a quiet street in an interesting old building
The Lerryn in Falmouth in Cornwall: Room with a view and a wonderful breakfast
Eating in England
Two words describe food in England–surprisingly excellent.
How times have changed! For decades, England was maligned for its tasteless, overcooked food. Now, great restaurants are everywhere, featuring food from all over the world.
You won’t go hungry in England anymore.
One of my favorite meals was an upscale version of the old ploughman’s lunch that I used to love when I lived in England in the 1970s. The one I ordered in York was beyond amazing! A pork pie, thick slices of ham, apples, hard-boiled eggs, crusty white bread, salad, pickles galore, fresh Yorkshire butter (and lots of it) and two very hefty slabs of cheese. I was in heaven!
You can also choose from a wide range of world cuisines pretty much anywhere in England. When I was in York, I opted one evening for a curry. The highly-rated Taas restaurant close to the Botham Gate leading into the old city of York served up a delicious Nepalese meal. A good choice!
Charcuterie and local cheeses at a pub in Yorkshire
Conclusion
Have you traveled to England? Share your experiences and recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.
Here are three posts to read next to help you plan your England trip:
Author Zoe Disigny (The Art of Traveling Strangers) has made her dream of owning a house in France come true! Read about her experience in this guest post for Artsy Traveler.
Vive la Différence
We bought a house in France! I know, I can’t believe it either!
I’ve fantasized about living in France since my first high school French class, and now, over fifty years later, that dream has come true four months out of the year. And although I’m new to this, I’d like to share some preliminary observations about living in rural Southern France versus urban Southern California.
A road outside my home in Southern California vs a road outside my home in Southern France
History is Everywhere
The first thing I always notice about France is the palpable presence of history, and my little village is no different. I’m drawn to the textures of the old buildings, with their peeling layers of plaster, red tile roofs, and decorative eaves looking like the pinched edges of pie crusts.
And I love how the village houses still cluster around medieval churches. In Southern California, the buildings would be sleek condos surrounding a shopping center.
Views of our village in the south of France
For Whom the Bell Tolls
A sturdy bell tower crowns the 12th-century church in the center of our village. Its ancient bell tolls daily at seven in the morning, noon, and seven at night, calling the faithful to pray the Angelus—a prayer dating back to the 11th century. The clanging bell is far from melodious, but it fills me with inexplicable joy.
Nothing in Southern California compares.
Beautiful Details
It’s not just the weathered façades of old French homes that reel me in but also their traditional wooden shutters with black iron hardware. The iron fasteners that hold our window shutters open take the shape of tiny female busts and are called arrêts bergère (shepherdess stops). I love their hats and how proper these ladies look. They clearly take their job seriously!
Against the stone façade of our house, our door shutters with their multiple iron bars remind me of a medieval fortress. And the six-step process to close and latch them each night feels just as archaic—an inefficiency that would not go over well in the U.S. but appeals to my romantic soul.
I’m also charmed by the delicate lace curtains placed flat against the inside of the windows. They soften the darkness of the closed shutters and filter the light when the shutters are open—an old-fashioned window treatment that would look entirely out of place in my home in California.
Navigating French Bureaucracy
The English word bureaucracy comes from the French word bureaucratie coined in the 18th century to describe a cumbersome government of multiple bureaus or offices. It’s fitting that the French invented this word because France is notorious for it.
Case in point: Our cash offer for our French house was accepted on May 16, 2022. Even though there were no contingencies, the sale was not approved until Aug. 30—three and a half months later!
In California, if all goes well, cash buyers can close a sale in as little as seven days.
Getting from Here to There
Driving in France (not Paris) is a pleasure, as long as you’re good at navigating endless rond points (roundabouts) and realize you won’t get stopped for speeding. Instead, if you’re caught on a speed camera, you’ll get a ticket in the mail. Surprise!
Of course, there’s often no need to drive because the trains go everywhere and are comfortable, clean, and inexpensive for short hops. It only takes twelve minutes and costs three euros for us to train to Narbonne (fourteen miles away on the Mediterranean).
And one of the best things about traveling around France . . . no billboards!
A highway in France
The Pause that Refreshes
In my part of France, most stores (except grocery stores) close from noon to 2 (unless it’s Sunday when nothing is open—again, except grocery stores, but they’re only available until noon). Got it?
Our home improvement store, Bricomarche, is very strict about its midday closure. As the noon witching hour approaches, staff members circulate the store, barring customers from selecting more items and shooing us toward the checkout counter.
Stop a client from buying? That would never happen in the U.S.
As the stores shut down for lunch, the restaurants open—but only from noon to 2 (or sometimes 1:30). If you miss that window, they don’t open again until 5 (at the earliest).
Dining in France
The tradeoff for this narrow timeframe is the delicious, artfully presented food! Other compensations include no loud music or distracting TVs (making mealtime more favorable for conversation, savoring, and digestion).
Tipping is strictly voluntary. With a government-required service charge added to the bill, a 5-10% tip is generous.
Artfully presented and delicious food in France
Another dining difference in France—the pace of the meal. Not only does it usually take a little longer to get your food, but it takes a lot longer to get your bill. This is not great if you’re in a hurry, but at least they won’t whisk your plate away while you’re still chewing your last bite!
And take heed, no “doggie bags.” I mean, you could ask for one, but it’s not normally done. So eat up!
Bonjour, Madame
Perhaps it’s just my little village and the towns near mine, but everyone passing by says “bonjour.” The delivery man, dog walker, shoppers, children. No one passes anyone without a friendly “bonjour.” And most of the time, the greeting is even more polite. “Bonjour, Madame,” “Bonjour Monsieur.” Or if you’re in mixed company, “Bonjour messieurs-dames.” It’s just so respectful and, well . . . French!
So, there you have it, a few of my early impressions on the differences between living in the U.S. and France.
Vive la différence!
Read about Zoe Disigny on the Artsy Traveler Guest Posters page.
For most travelers, taking photgraphs is an integral part of exploring new destinations. Some people snap quick photos with their SmartPhones while others travel with several cameras and apply their training and a good eye to taking memorable, even exhibition-worthy photographs. Guest poster Julie H. Ferguson falls into the latter category.
Julie describes how she discovered her love of photography and shares her travel photography tips to help the Artsy Traveler take great pictures.
The cover photo for this post, previously exhibited, shows an iceberg in Baffin Bay, where Julie sailed on an expedition ship in the summer of 2022.
How I Got Started with Travel Photography
I believe photography is an art form, while travel is an addiction. Together, they make a magical combination.
My father was an accomplished painter in oils and watercolors who took me to all the great museums and galleries in the UK and some in Europe. A serious amateur, he was good enough to exhibit in the Royal Academy. He also tried hard to get me drawing and painting from an early age. However, I didn’t have his talent and got frustrated when I couldn’t reproduce what I was seeing. And then, when I was ten, Dad had a brainwave and bought me a Kodak Brownie camera. Finally, I found a way to reproduce what I was seeing! Since then, I always have a camera in my hand.
Guest poster Julie H. Ferguson in Croker Bay on an expedition to Canada’s High Arctic (Nunavut) in 2022 (Courtesy: Susan Dixon)
My Photography Passion Expands
For years, I employed what my father taught me about composition, color, and light, especially after I acquired my first single lens reflex camera. I bought my first digital camera in 1999 and was hooked. I joined a camera club in 2005, practised a lot, and learned how to edit my images on a computer.
Now, I own four cameras — two Nikons and lenses, one small but mighty Lumix that fits in my pocket when I’m doing active things like riding camels, and an old GoPro. I have about 50,000 images in the Cloud and have not stopped practising.
Julie’s cameras go everywhere with her when she travels
Exhibiting My Travel Photography
Our visual, connected world has seen an explosion in photography recently but, oddly enough, not much of an increase in photography exhibitions. Go to any small or large gallery, and you will rarely see photographs on display. I try to find photography exhibitions wherever I am in the world and am not always successful, but at least I can enjoy the world’s best travel photographers’ work online. Here are two of my favorite websites:
The excellent art gallery near where I live in Penticton, BC, asked my camera club, the Penticton Photography Club, to mount a small exhibition in collaboration with fibre artists in 2021. This was the first photography exhibit the gallery had mounted in its ninety-nine-year existence. I sold my first image at this exhibition — a thrilling moment for me after over twelve years of exhibiting. It was validating, and I felt I had honored my father’s long ago training sessions.
Julie next to the first photograph (R) she sold at an exhibition of the Naramata Inn near Penticton, BC (Courtesy: Merle Kindred)
What Kind of Camera Should You Use?
The best camera you have is the one in your hand is an old saying but it’s spot on! Today, the newer phone cameras are exceptional, and I use mine when I’m stuck without one of my cameras. It takes very sharp images with true colors, and manages low light quite well. The video is good too, although I prefer taking stills because I enjoy the challenge.
My Travel Photography Tips
Do you, like me, view photography as more than a snapshot? Perhaps even art? If so, here are some simple travel photography tips to up your game for taking great travel shots.
Travel Photography Tip 1: Keep it straight
Here’s how to avoid shooting wonky horizons and leaning buildings
Line up the horizon to be parallel with the top or bottom of the screen; line up the side of buildings with the side of the screen.
Don’t tip your camera up or down—keep it parallel to the ground.
Keeping the horizon line straight and focusing on the foreground
Travel Photography Tip 2: Avoid fuzzy images
Fuzzy images are generally caused by camera shake or poor focussing. Here’s how to fix:
Camera shake (everything is fuzzy): Never hold your camera or phone at arm’s length as it bounces when you click the shutter down. Wedge it against something or fix your elbows on a wall, your chest, or your knees before pressing the shutter.
Out of focus (the subject is fuzzy): Press the shutter halfway down and wait for the camera to focus on the subject. If using a phone, tap the screen over the subject. When shooting people or animals focus on the eye closest to you.
Travel Photography Tip 3: Find great light
Don’t shoot into the sun. The best light is during the golden hour after sunrise and before sunset.
Travel Photography Tip 4: Take great people shots
Light people effectively: Take portraits in the shade or on an overcast day to avoid ugly shadows on faces and squinty eyes in bright sunlight. Dark or silhouetted portraits are caused by bright light behind them from skies, sun, sea, or snow.
An example of a portrait that demonstrates harsh shadows under the nose, deep wrinkles, and squinty eyes in bright midday sun.
Put your focus point on the subject by holding down the shutter halfway while the camera focuses. If your camera has an interactive screen, tap over the subject, or tap the subject on your phone’s screen.
In 2018 at the Pushkar Camel Fair, two chiefs haggle good-naturedly over the price of one camel.
If you’re shooting inside and using flash, move your subjects away from the walls by at least a metre to avoid unsightly shadows behind them.
Travel Photography Tip 5: Apply effective composition principles
Avoid placing your subject (focus point) in the middle of the frame. Use the “Rule of Thirds” and put your subject in the area of one of the red dots in the diagram — it’s more pleasing to the eye.
This photograph of an Inuk elder in Canada’s Arctic demonstrates the Rule of Thirds and the need for space in front of her.
Travel Photograph Tip 6: Avoid shooting where you are standing
Walk around your subject if possible; move right and left, forward and back, and up and down to find the best angle for your shot.
Making this huge rock the focal point using the Rule of Thirds with leading lines in this shot of the Ziz Gorge in Morocco
Travel Photography Tip 7: Practise often!
It’s digital, so you can take as many photos as you like, and your “eye” will begin to improve, and the above tips will become more automatic.
Avoid taking a new camera on vacation without taking 2001+ photographs before you go!
Editing Your Photographs
I always endeavour to get the picture I want right in the camera, but I do appreciate the creativity that the digital darkroom affords. In fact, I love the editing as much as taking the photographs. This is where the magic happens for me.
Once you start getting comfortable with your camera, you might want to take the next step and get an editing app for your phone or computer. There’s plenty of suggestions online or from camera club members to get you started . For example, my favourites are Adobe Photoshop and the Nik Collection, the first of which has a steep learning curve (check out this guide to learning Photoshop). Other apps are effective and easy to use.
Upping your photography game when travelling takes some practice and thought. It’s well worth the effort both for personal satisfaction and as a means of preserving your memories.
Small group tours, whether for a half-day or several weeks, have myriad benefits. The most profound is access to local expert guides who are able to customize the tour according to the interests of the participants. These experts heighten focussed travel experiences and almost always deliver a memorable experience.
Guest Poster Julie H. Ferguson shares her take on why small groups tours are the way to go, particularly for solo and older travelers.
The cover photo for this post shows the participants of Julie’s small group tour of Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe, with “favorite uncle” Thulani in front. Participants were from Australia, Switzerland, France, Holland, and Germany, with Julie being the sole Canadian (fourth from left).
Why I Recommend Small Group Tours
Many years ago, I went on a couple of regular sightseeing tours of local sites, which meant thirty-plus tourists. It was hopeless! Often, I couldn’t hear the guide or get close enough to the exhibits or even ask questions.
Small group tours are very different! I recommend them in these circumstances:
When you visit art museums and historic sites
When you have limited time in a location and want to see the highlights
When you travel in countries for an extended time where renting a car is unwise or destinations are unsafe to explore alone
Exploring Art Museums and Historic Sites
I learned the benefits of taking small group or private tours in art museums and historic sites the hard way. When my husband was alive, we toured Notre Dame in Paris in twenty minutes. This was not enough time for me, but he didn’t want to join any type of guided tour. As a result, we missed a lot!
Memorable Tours
A decade after that visit to Paris, I was eager to explore the Vatican Museums and told James how much we would gain from having a private guide. He finally agreed to try it mainly because we could jump the tedious entry lines. For five hours, our Italian guide from The Metropolitan Museum in New York thrilled us. James had to admit it was an incredible way to get the most out of the visit! After that, we often hired private guides and took many small-group day tours.
At the Prado in Madrid, we were two of five guests of a PhD in art history. At the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, one of only four mosques open to non-Muslims, a committee member who managed the building project showed my group around.
In Casablanca, Morocco, the Hassan II Mosque was built out over the Atlantic. The floor of the prayer hall is glass so the faithful can see the waves.
I also gained much from a hands-on photography workshop on the Isle of Arran with a professional. One of my favorite solo experiences was a one-on-one, day-long cooking school with an international chef in Fez, Morocco, that cost less than $80 CAD.
After shopping for ingredients in the food souk in the medina of Fez, I cooked a lunch with the chef’s help for four in a tiny kitchen in a riad or guest house.
When I arrive with or without a car in a safe city for the first time, I often take a small group tour to get orientated.
On a free day in Windhoek, the capital of Namibia, I spent a morning with a local university student visiting health clinics and schools.
While on a recent trip to Portugal, I took a ten-hour private tour of the Douro Valley that included port tastings, a three-course lunch in a chateau, and a short boat cruise. My driver frequently stopped so I could take photos. He also passed me over to the experts at each location and told me about the region as he drove.
The Douro Valley in northern Portugal is where the port grapes grow on terraced mountainsides. The raw wine is taken down river in casks to Porto to be made into port, matured, and shipped around the world.
Where to Find Small Group Day Tours
I seek tours that focus on history, art, and photography run by reputable companies. Sometimes, I find tours by researching online or by asking the advice of hotel concierges. When I wanted to visit textile factories in Delhi, the concierge wove all three of my interests into one marvelous day.
Yes, I pay a premium to enjoy these private or small group tours, but the value they provide is enormously worth the cost. They quadruple my enjoyment of art museums, castles, cathedrals, and cuisine.
I see much more than I could alone, my understanding and appreciation of the location soars, and I support the local economy.
Taking Extended Small Group Tours
Although I was an experienced solo traveler, after James died, I wanted to dig deeper into my A-list which included remoter regions where solo travel was challenging or downright unsafe.
I suspected that extended small group tours with twelve or fewer tourists would work for me, but I had concerns. Would I like my travel companions? Would I be the oldest? Would I get enough vital alone-time?
My First Extended Small Group Tour
My first experience on an extended small group tour was on a Majestic Line cruise of the Scottish Inner Hebrides. A micro-cruise in a converted Irish trawler meant I was trapped with twelve passengers for a week. I needn’t have worried. Everyone was respectful of others’ time, the captain listened to our pleas for unscheduled adventures, and the gourmet food was divine. Small vessels can reach places that bigger ships cannot, which meant I enjoyed wonderful shore excursions accompanied by a local expert.
Cruising the Inner Hebrides of Scotland on the Glen Tarsen, visiting Mull, Iona, and Staffa and exploring castles, remote bays, sea lochs, and enjoying a wildlife safari on land.
Favorite Benefits of Small Group Tours
Who takes small group tours? What is the transportation? What about transfers and baggage? These are all good questions, and the answers provide more reasons why I prefer small group tours.
Small Group Tour Participants
I find people who travel with extended small-group tours are well-educated, gracious, helpful, and fun. Almost all are well traveled, with the majority being retirees, often from different countries. Sixty to eighty percent are solo and most are female. I’m still in contact with friends I’ve made from around the world.
Transportation on Small Group Tours
Every extended tour I’ve done has used modern Mercedes Sprinter vans with fourteen seats. These vehicles have good air-conditioning, coolers for water (and gin!), and USB ports for charging cameras and laptops. In Africa, the all-terrain Sprinters easily handle the bad roads and trails in game parks.
During my last three-week safari, our Sprinter had two flat tires and a fuel leak (not unusual) that were all repaired on site by our amazing tour leader who was also our guide, expert ranger, driver, navigator, picnic chef, and favorite uncle.
The Mercedes Sprinter in Namibia as we prepared our daily picnic lunch in a remote spot; the trailer carried all our baggage, picnic kit, a folding table and camp chairs.
Access to Help
A significant bonus of taking a small group tour is access to help and on-call problem solving whenever I need it. I also appreciate having my baggage transported, my airport transfers organized, and accommodation in clean, well-run hotels.
Recommended Small Group Tour Companies
My two recommended tour companies are Explore! in the UK and Bestway Tours in Canada, which have focussed inventories of worldwide trips, often categorized into activity levels. These tour companies choose locally owned and regularly assessed hotels. I have visited China, India, and sub-Saharan African countries, among others, with them on many long tours and safaris.
Conclusion
If you’re not sure you’ll enjoy small group tours, I suggest trying a couple of half-day or full-day tours to see if you gain pleasure from them. I’m certain you will. While you likely won’t experience in an hour or two the friendships that accrue from longer tours, you’ll get a good idea if small group tours are for you. Then, perhaps, you’ll decide to take some extended tours.
Read about Julie H. Ferguson on the Artsy Traveler Guest Posters page.
I’m a big fan of small group tours and have enjoyed them in New Zealand, Australia, and Iceland. Here is a post about my small group tour around Iceland:
When it comes to experiencing memorable concerts & performances in Europe, you are spoiled for choice.
Europe is like a chocolate box brimming over with artsy flavors. Venues in every city and town showcase a wide range of musical styles, from classical to traditional to rock.
In addition to music concerts, you’ll find plenty of theater and dance performances, along with festivals and special events.
Some of my favorite memories are of performances we stumbled across, often as a result of chatting with local artists and fellow travelers, noticing posters and flyers, and checking out “What’s On” pages on local websites.
In this post, I present my favorite venues and performances in fourteen European cities: Amsterdam, Barcelona, Berlin, Cologne, Hamburg, Leipzig, Lisbon, London, Paris, Seville, Stratford-upon-Avon, Venice, Verona, and Vienna.
Overview – Planning Ahead
While I’m always open to serendipity when it comes to choosing performances and concerts, I also believe in planning ahead.
I suggest that as soon as you know the dates of your trip, go online and search for concerts, performances, festivals and other live events that will be on while you’re traveling.
A search for “musicals in London”, “classical concerts in Paris”, or “dance performances, Seville” should yield good results.
You can also use generic searches such as “what’s on in Berlin” or “concerts in Vienna” and then narrow down the choices to focus on the music genres that interest you.
Classical Concerts in Amsterdam
One of Europe’s most beautiful concert halls is Amsterdam’s Concertgebouw, located across from the Museumplein. Free lunchtime concerts are held on Wednesdays in the small concert hall adjacent to the main hall.
On a recent visit to Amsterdam, we enjoyed a lively performance by two vibraphonists. Check the website to find out what’s on when you’re in Amsterdam.
You’ll join locals and very few other tourists for a marvelous (and free!) musical experience.
The Concertgebouw in Amsterdam
Where to Stay in Amsterdam
Here are two of my recommended places to stay in Amsterdam.
Clayton Hotel Amsterdam American: This place is located within walking distance of the Concertgebouw and close to where you can hop onto a canal cruise. It’s stylish, comfortable, and excellent value in this expensive city.
Mokum Suites overlooking the Herengracht canal and near the Rembrandtplein is one of my favorite places to stay in Amsterdam. From your suite, watch the canal boats slide past.
If you’re even remotely interested in what’s playing, get tickets! Attending a concert at the astonishly exquisite Palau de la Música will quite simply blow your mind!
I saw a Ópera y Flamenco performance there that transported me.
The magnificent stained glass at the Palau de la Música Catalana
Built between 1905 and 1908 by the modernist architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner, the Palau de la Música Catalana is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
If you can’t get tickets to a performance, you can still take a tour of the building. I’ve also done this and can recommend the experience. You’ll learn a lot, and get plenty of time sitting in the hall and gazing up at the incredible stained glass.
Where to Stay in Barcelona
Here are two of my recommended places to stay in Barcelona.
I loved staying at the Cram Hotel in the Eixample district for obvious reasons! I told the attendant that my last name was Cram, but unfortunately, I didn’t get a discount! Apparently the name “Cram” comes from spelling the name of the owner’s son (Marc) backwards. This is a truly lovely hotel with a rooftop pool.
I also recommend the Casp 74 Apartments near the Eixample district. The apartment hotel includes kitchens and an underground parking garage.
Concerts at the Berlin Philharmonic
If you’re a classical music fan, check out what’s on at the impressive home of the Berlin Philharmonic (Berlin Philharmoniker).
The building itself is fabulous with wonderful acoustics and worth touring even if you can’t see a concert there. I enjoyed an awe-inspiring performance of Stravinsky’s Rite of Spring performed by the Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin.
The Berlin Philharmoniker
Check out the concert calendar and buy tickets from the Berlin Philharmoniker website.
While we usually book tickets well in advance, we’re always open to attending concerts on the spur of the moment. One such memorable concert was at the Kölner Philharmonie, a magnificent concert hall a stone’s throw from Cologne’s famous cathedral and in the same complex as the wonderful Ludwig Museum.
We had just finished visiting the Romano-Germanic-Museum (a must-see!) and were walking past the Kölner Philharmonie when we noticed a poster for the evening’s concert. The programme appealed to us and so we inquired at the box office about tickets. The very friendly, English-speaking attendant told us that tickets were available and at a price we considered incredibly reasonable, at least compared to what we were accustomed to paying in Vancouver.
Two hours later, we took our seats in one of the most dazzling modern concert halls I’d ever been in. Built in 1986, the Kölner Philharmonie is constructed like an amphitheatre and provides near-perfect acoustics. Even the size and padding of the seats have been selected to ensure constant acoustics regardless of whether the seat is occupied.
Select one of the hotels overlooking the Rhine and within walking distance of the cathedral and the concert hall. I recommend the Hotel Drei Kronen.
Elbphilharmonie in Hamburg
In Hamburg, get tickets to see a performance at the ultra-modern Elbphilharmonie, one of the world’s most stunning concert halls.
I saw a classical concert here that was inspiring, not least because of the beauty of the venue itself. You’ll climb up, up, up (elevators are available) and enjoy stunning views over Hamburg before and after the concert.
Where to Stay in Hamburg
Here are two recommendations for where to stay in Hamburg:
Radisson Blue Hotel Hamburg: I find the Radisson Blu hotels consistently good in Europe (I also recommend one in Leipzig).
Hotel Wedina an der Alster: The room was small, but the breakfast area was spacious and the food excellent.
Gewandhaus in Leipzig
Marvelous Leipzig is a must-visit for classical music lovers, particularly if you adore (like I do!) the music of Johann Sebastian Bach. Read my post about our visit to the Bach Museum (I still swoon when I think of it!).
While in Leipzig, we attended a wonderful concert at the famed Gewandhaus where the young Clara Wieck (who became Clara Schumann and the inspiration for my second novel, A Woman of Note) debuted as a solo pianist in 1828.
Many other famous musicians have played at Gewandhaus and for that reason I was curious to see a performance there.
Gewandhaus concert hall in Leipzig, Germany
The ultra-modern Gewandhaus concert hall is nothing like the venue Clara played in, and is, in fact, the third concert hall to bear the name Gewandhaus, the first being built in 1781, the second in 1884 (designed by famed architect Martin Gropius), and the current hall in 1981.
We snagged tickets to a solo piano concert of music by Mozart and Chopin. What a treat, and, at less than $30CDN per ticket, probably the best value for a concert I’ve ever enjoyed.
At the interval, we thought the concert was over. The pianist had played for so long that we couldn’t imagine he’d be able to perform any longer. As we prepared to leave, a local woman came up to us and told us in careful English that it was only the break and that we needed to stay for the second half.
Gratefully, we returned to the concert hall to enjoy another ninety minutes of jaw-dropping music performed by the very hard-working pianist.
When you’re visiting Lisbon, make time for a fado performance (or two). We favor the smaller clubs with intimate performances over the more touristy offerings.
Our favorite place for fado in Lisbon is Restaurante Canto do Camões on Travessa da Espera in the Bairro Alto. Sadly, Restaurante Canto do Camões is now closed permanently; however, you’ll find other small restaurants that feature fado in the Bairro Alto and the Alfama. Walk around and listen!
Another option is to book a Fado performance. Here is an option with GetYourGuide:
You can also see fado performances in Porto and Coimbra. In Porto, we loved the performance at the Casa da Guitarra, which also included a glass of port. In Coimbra, fado is only sung by men.
We saw a troupe of men who sing wearing traditional costumes at À Capella, a 14th-century chapel that includes a bar and tapas with the live fado serenades.
Coimbra is a charming town and a great place to enjoy fado
Where to Stay in Lisbon
I suggest staying in the central Baixa area. From there, you can walk just about everywhere. I highly recommend Vincci Baixa. It’s stylish and with excellent service.
Theater in London
The first thing I do after booking a trip to London is check out what’s playing in the West End and what’s on at the National Theater and the Globe.
I’ve enjoyed so many memorable performances in London, starting in the 1970s when I was a student at Reading University, a 40-minute train ride from the bright lights of the West End. In those days, performances in London were so reasonably priced that even a student could afford them!
Even now, I find that prices for musicals in the West End are far below what I’ve paid in New York.
London’s busy West End has plenty of great theaters
Go to the London Theatre website, see what’s on and get tickets well in advance. You can also take your chances during your trip and purchase last-minute tickets, often at a reduced rate. However, I don’t recommend doing this for a performance that you really want to see.
If you are flexible and open to seeing what’s playing, you could well get lucky. On a recent trip to London, I got a ticket for Mamma Mia on the day of the performance for just 40 GBP.
Before going to the theater, enjoy an early dinner at one of the many restaurants in the West End advertising pre-theatre menus.
And while planning your entertainment options in London, don’t forget to check out what’s on at venues such as the Albert Hall and the Barbican Centre.
Another option is the lunchtime and evening concerts at the achingly lovely St Martin-in-the-Fields near Trafalgar Square.
Saint Martins-in-the-Fields next to Trafalgar Square in London hosts classical music concerts
Here are some more options for concerts in London:
Where to Stay in London
I visit London frequently, and here are two of my favorite places to stay:
The Wilde ApartHotel just off the Strand is also a wonderful choice. I loved its very central location within walking distance of Trafalgar Square and most of the West End theaters.
Opera & Classical Music in Paris
We love going to concerts in Paris. Spectacular venues such as the Opéra Bastille, the Paris Philharmonie and Sainte-Chapelle enhance the musical experiences, and the quality of the performances is always first-rate. Here are just a few of the venues to check out, particularly if you are a classical music lover.
Opéra Bastille
Seeing an opera in Paris is definitely a cool experience, and one that we hope to repeat as restrictions continue to lift. One of our most memorable opera experiences was seeing Götterdämmerung at the Opéra Bastille. Talk about mind-exploding!
Opéra Bastille in Paris
The Opéra national de Paris presents operas at two venues—the ultra chic and modern Opéra Bastille and the sumptuously decorated and historic Opéra Garnier. Check the website for the Opéra national de Paris.
Paris Philharmonie
The Philharmonie de Paris is just breathtaking! Located in Parc de la Villette in the northeast of Paris, the Philharmonie is a complex of buildings that also house exhibition spaces and rehearsal rooms. We attended a performance in the symphonic concert hall—a 2,400-seat über-modern venue designed by Jean Nouvel and opened in January 2015. It was a stunning experience.
Interior of the Paris Philharmonie
Check the website for upcoming performances and events.
Piano Concerts at Église Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre
Located just across the Seine from Notre-Dame Cathedral in the 5th arrondissement, the Église Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre is one of the oldest churches in Paris. Concerts featuring either solo piano or duos (e.g., violin and piano or cello and piano) are frequently held there—and they are well worth attending. We’ve been to several. Tickets are reasonably priced, the venue is deliciously ancient and atmospheric, and the quality of the playing is first-rate.
Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre is just across the Seine from Notre-Dame Cathedral
Check the website for upcoming concerts and keep an eye out for posters in the area (that’s how we discovered what was on).
Sainte-Chapelle Concerts
Fancy spending an hour or two staring up at sublimely beautiful stained glass supported by impossibly slender columns while listening to sublimely beautiful classical music? Then check out the website for Sainte-Chapelle’s concerts and purchase tickets for a performance. You won’t be disappointed!
Imagine listening to music surrounded by this view!
We’ve enjoyed several concerts at Sainte-Chapelle and have always been transported into ever higher planes of awesomeness. A favorite evening out is to enjoy the performance at 7 pm and then to wander starry-eyed through the cobbled streets of Île de la Cité to Île Saint-Louis and dine at one of the many small bistros in the area. Artsy traveling doesn’t get much better!
Where to Stay in Paris
I favor hotels and apartments on the Left Bank in Paris. Here are two of my favorites:
Hotel de L’Universite: in the heart of Saint-Germain, this boutique hotels is a bit removed from the crowds
We’re firm fans of flamenco. See my post describing the flamenco performance we enjoyed on our first visit to Seville. In Seville, you can see flamenco at several venues. I recommend two.
A flamenco performance will captivate you!
Flamenco Museum
From the website, purchase the combo ticket that includes the museum and a late afternoon flamenco performance that will leave you breathless.
Los Gallos
Situated in a charming little courtyard in the heart of Seville, Los Gallos is an intimate venue with world-class talent. Sip the Sangria included in the ticket price and prepare to be blasted into the stratosphere.
Where to Stay in Seville
I recommend the Hotel Amadeus Sevilla deep in the old town in Seville. If you’re driving, park your car on the outskirts and take a taxi into the city.
Theater in Stratford-upon-Avon
Every time I visit England, I do my best to squeeze in a trip to Stratford-upon-Avon to see a performance by the Royal Shakespeare Company. I have been fortunate to see many wondrous performances there, including productions of Romeo and Juliet and Hamlet that both starred the incomparable David Tennant.
Main theatre at Stratford-upon-Avon
When I was a student at Reading University, a two-hour drive southeast of Stratford-upon-Avon, I frequently made the trek to see a performance. I was studying for a degree in English Literature so taking in as many Shakespeare productions as possible was almost mandatory.
You can see Shakespeare productions at the Globe in London and the experience is highly recommended. However, I must admit that I prefer the productions at Stratford-upon-Avon. The seating is more comfortable, and the quality is top-notch. I liken seeing a production by the Royal Shakespeare Company as the auditory equivalent of looking at high-quality cut crystal. Every word and gesture is crisp and perfect.
When you go up to Stratford-upon-Avon to slake your Shakespeare yen, you also get the bonus of having time to wander the charming streets of Stratford. Sure, it’s a bit touristy, but so what? I love touring Shakespeare’s birthplace, paying my respects at his grave in the church, and watching the swans glide by on the River Avon.
Shakespeare’s birthplace in Stratford-upon-Avon
Visit the RSC’s website for details about upcoming productions in Stratford-upon-Avon and London. Here are some other options:
Where to Stay in Stratford-upon-Avon
I recommend the Pen and Parchment Inn. The location is convenient to the theater and the breakfast was first-rate.
Vivaldi in Venice
On one visit to Venice, we were strolling through the quiet streets after dark when we noticed a young man dressed in 18th-century garb and carrying a violin case hurry past. We caught up to him and asked if he was a musician. He told us he was on his way to play a concert of 17th- and 18th-century music in a church. Did we like music like that?
Is Vivaldi Venetian?
Yes!
We followed him to the church and half an hour later were sitting beneath a mural painted by Titian and listening to a selection of Venetian classical music favorites. Bliss! The orchestra was clad in 18th-century garb and the performance was obviously aimed at tourists, but that didn’t affect the quality of the musicianship or the depth of our enjoyment.
Hearing Baroque music in Venice just makes sense!
After the concert, we floated out into a warm evening to find ourselves moments later at the edge of the Grand Canal. A barge filled with another group of musicians in period dress slid past, the music wafting through the balmy air like the rustling of silk stockings.
Magical!
In Venice, several venues feature classical music concerts. Check out the Music in Venice website for programs and dates.
Where to Stay in Venice
Here are two of the places I’ve stayed in Venice.
San Teodoro Palace: This one-bedroom apartment is huge by Venice standards and located steps from the Rialto Bridge in a very lively and touristy area.
Ca’ Mirò: Settle into this two-floor apartment in a quiet area of Venice not far from the train station and become a temporary Venetian. It’s gorgeous.
Opera in Verona
The Arena di Verona, the Roman amphitheatre in Verona, Italy, periodically presents operas to hundreds of fans who are mostly perched on the edge of very hard, very ancient Roman stone steps. We know because several years ago, we were such fans. To read about an evening that has become synonymous with disaster in our family, check out Meltdown in Verona.
Our experience aside, attending a performance at the Roman arena in Verona could be the magical experience we’d expected.
The detailed RM Europa Tickets website contains information about all the opera festivals in Europe in a given year. You’ll find opera festivals in almost all European countries, along with a detailed list of venues and schedules, including the Arena di Verona.
Arena di Verona
Where to Stay in Verona
Check out Hotel Torcolo, located a few steps from the arena in the heart of the old town.
Classical Concerts in Vienna
You can’t walk two feet in Vienna’s Stephansplatz without tripping over a bewigged young person trying to sell you tickets to a performance of Strauss, Mozart, or both. Vienna has several venues featuring tourist-oriented shows designed to showcase the oldie goldies of several of its most famous composers, particularly Johann Strauss.
The last time I visited Vienna, traveling solo, I attended a delightful string quartet concert at the gorgeous Sala Terrena, an intimate and heavily decorated venue in the center of the city. Mozart allegedly lived in the building in which the Sala Terrena is housed when he first came to Vienna as a young man. While you wait for the concert to begin, feast your eyes on the riotous Baroque frescoes and look out especially for the leopard! For more about my experience at the Sala Terrena concert, check out my post on Music in Vienna.
Some of the frescoes at the Sala Terrena in Vienna
On the same trip to Vienna, I took the tram and then a bus out to Schloss Laudon (Water Palace) in the bucolic countryside surrounding Vienna to attend a concert that was part of the five-day Schloss Laudon festival.
I discovered the festival while planning my trip to Vienna and was very glad I managed to snag a ticket for a performance that featured an early Beethoven piano trio in the style of Haydn and a marvelous rendition of Tchaikovsky’s piano trio.
Where to Stay in Vienna
Here are some hotels in the center of Vienna with +9 ratings on booking.com that offer good value:
Before you travel, check websites for venues and performance times and budget as much money as you can spare for live entertainment. You’ll be making memories that last a lifetime.
And keep a lookout for local folk performances that are often free, with some even encouraging participation. You’ll typically find these advertised in flyers and on posters.
Watch a flag-waving demonstration by young people dressed in medieval garb in Siena, dance the Sardana in front of Barcelona Cathedral along with hundreds of locals and tourists, watch a concert featuring ancient instruments in a tiny chapel in Les Baux de Provence, and more!
Keep your eyes and ears open; you never know what’s around the next corner.
Statue commemorating the Sardana in Barcelona
Have you attended concerts while traveling in Europe? Share your experiences and recommendations in the Comments below. Here are some more posts that feature information about concert-going in Europe:
Meltdown in Verona is included in Pastel & Pen: Travels in Europe, a non-collaborative collaboration between Gregg Simpson and me. Gregg supplies the artwork, and I write the stories. I wrote this piece after one of the most fraught afternoons and evenings in my family’s travel history. Many years later, we can laugh about it, but at the time, our “Meltdown in Verona” threatened to tear us apart.
Two households, both alike in dignity / In fair Verona where we lay our scene. — Romeo & Juliet, William Shakespeare
Almost encircled by a river, its buildings low and ancient, Verona looked as it had looked when Romeo rode hence to Mantua, when Juliet’s funeral procession snaked through the city gates, when the Montague boys crashed the Capulet banquet.
Fair Verona.
Yes, indeed it was. The tops of its brown weathered buildings shone warmly in the afternoon sun, a slight haze rose from the river, and a pale blue sky straight out of a Renaissance painting arched high overhead.
Several months earlier, an Internet search revealed that the Roman arena in Verona hosted an opera series. Although life-long music lovers, my husband, Gregg, and I had only recently discovered opera after attending a performance of Verdi’s La Traviata in an indoor theater with comfy seats and decent acoustics.
Imagine how much better, how much more authentic it would be to see a real opera performed in a real Roman amphitheater in a real Italian town! Could cultural tourism get any better?
I penetrated the clunky online ordering system and snagged the cheapest tickets for seats on unnumbered 2,000-year-old concrete steps. All that remained was to announce to friends who loved classical music that we were seeing Aida in the Roman arena at Verona and then to sit back and watch them turn green with envy.
At noon on a hot day in August, we drove into Verona and checked into our hotel. The opera wouldn’t start for nine hours, so our first stop had to be Juliet’s house. Juliet Capulet, that is. Her house, complete with balcony, gift shop, and statue with one bare breast glistening in the summer sun (don’t ask), must rank alongside the Green Gables of Anne fame on Canada’s Prince Edward Island as one of the most absurd, but lucrative, tourist attractions on Earth.
Romeo and Juliet had been my favorite play since I was a young teen like my daughter, and now it was hers. Gregg stayed behind at the hotel to watch the final hours of the Tour de France, and Julia and I set off for the Casa di Giulietta. Once there, we cheerfully handed over the entrance fee to visit a house belonging to a fictional character who, by definition, was a figment of someone’s imagination—a paper girl brought to life by a guy with a better than average knack for poetry.
Soon, we were climbing the stairs to the famous balcony and waiting while people took turns throwing out their O Romeo, Romeos. When our turn came, we stepped out onto the balcony and into the blinding flash of a camera.
The photographer gesticulated at me to nod, wave, and/or otherwise acknowledge that I’d buy the picture he’d taken. I decided to play it cool. Maybe, just maybe, I’d buy it, but I wasn’t letting him know that. No, Signor. If the picture flattered my good side, I’d consider parting with the cash. Otherwise, ciao baby.
I shrugged and turned away.
We wandered at leisure through the bare rooms of Juliet’s house. The brochure said that the house was genuinely old and had, allegedly, belonged to the Capello family who were the prototypes for the Capulets. There was also evidence that the building had served as a brothel, although the brochure didn’t indicate what evidence.
We descended to the courtyard and approached the photographer. By this time, we’d realized that the photos taken of people on Juliet’s balcony were printed onto white china mugs. Now there was a souvenir worth flying ten hours in cargo class to get. We loved tacky souvenirs on principle, and this was a souvenir that put the tack in tacky.
In vain, I searched for “our” mug, but alas, ‘twas not to be. When I asked the photographer, he looked surprised.
“I didn’t think you wanted it!”
Since I doubt that I’ll ever again stand on Ms. Capulet’s balcony, I must live my life to its conclusion unaccompanied by the photographic proof of my presence in Verona on that sultry afternoon in August.
Our visit to Verona that had started with such promise thus began a slow crawl to its ultimate destiny as a synonym for disaster in my family’s collective memory.
I soon cheered myself up with a bright idea. Why not walk over to the Roman arena and pick up our tickets for the opera? We could then return to the hotel, pick up Gregg, and enjoy a leisurely dinner at a quaint Veronese trattoria without needing to worry about queuing. Since it was 4 pm and the performance didn’t start until 9:15, the arena area would be deserted.
We arrived at the arena to find hundreds of people, most armed with cushions and newspapers, already stationed outside the various entrances. Fear twisted my stomach. We didn’t have numbered seats, which meant that we had to get in line right away or else …
After circumnavigating the arena (and it’s a big one), we found the ticket area. Not having anticipated that I’d be picking up the tickets early, I didn’t have my confirmation number.
“I need the number, Signora.”
“It’s at the hotel. But look, here’s the Visa I used to book the tickets.”
Grave headshakes, multiple keys pressed on the computer, soulful murmurings in rapid Italian.
“Please! People are already starting to line up!”
More key pressing, more murmurings, then a sharp intake of breath. It wasn’t looking good. The attendant squinted at me. “Name?”
I resisted the urge to tell her it was printed on the Visa and instead meekly spelled it out for her—all four letters.
Grimacing, she shook her head as if I’d gotten it wrong. I spelled it again.
A flurry of key pressing, murmurings rising in volume, another headshake.
“Please!”
Finally, with a sigh audible to everyone shuffling impatiently in the queue behind me, the attendant passed the tickets through the wicket and into my sweating palms.
“Where should we go?” I asked.
“Right now, go to entrance 65.”
“But my husband is at the hotel!”
“Get him right away,” she barked, as if I were short a few brain cells, which, as events transpired, was not an unreasonable assumption. “You must line up now to get a good seat.”
“Now?”
“Si. Don’t wait another minute!”
Oh. My. God.
Clutching $150 worth of unnumbered seats on 2,000-year-old arena steps in one hand and Julia in the other, I hailed a taxi. I could see the crowds around the arena expanding exponentially. By the time we returned, who knew how far back in line we’d be? Would we see anything at all?
We found Gregg lounging happily on the bed in the air-conditioned hotel room watching Tour de France cyclists roar down the Champs-Élysées toward victory.
“We’ve got to go right now!”
“What?”
“Now! The lady at the ticket booth said we needed to line up.”
“It’s not even 5 o’clock. And I’m watching the Tour de France!”
“We don’t have time! We have got to get in line! We can take turns going out for food.”
You’d have thought we were rushing to catch the last flight out before the Revolution.
With what seemed like agonizing slowness, Gregg got himself ready for the Great Experience to come. While his mood was not what I’d call enthusiastic, he was nevertheless moving. After all, we’d anticipated this evening for months. I knew he was as excited as I was to see a real opera in a real Roman arena in a real Italian town.
Less than an hour after I’d left the ticket booth and with the attendant’s exhortations sending poisoned darts into my brain, we arrived back at the arena. I led my family to Gate 65.
You have to visualize a Roman arena and its placement with relation to the pavement to understand the situation in which we found ourselves. Over the centuries, the base of the arena had sunk while the pavement had risen with the accumulated debris of the ages. Gregg peered over the railing into the ten-foot-deep trough.
“It looks like the pit of hell!”
“The ticket lady said we must get in line now.”
“I’m not spending the next four hours down there.”
“But…”
“Are you crazy?”
I looked down at the tops of heads bent over newspapers or chatting volubly with neighbors. The noise level would make a soprano wince, the temperature had to be in the mid-forties Celsius, and the space between bodies was a few inches at best. I tried to imagine standing down there with nothing to do, nothing to read, and nothing to eat for the next four hours.
Perhaps Gregg had a point.
“How about I get in line while you and Julia get something to eat?”
“That’ll take all of an hour and then what?”
“Well, you and Julia can get in line and I’ll get something to eat. We can take turns!”
Even to my ears, my Mister Rogers jollity sounded forced. To Gregg, it sounded insane.
What followed was not pretty and not for repeating. For the next four hours, the argument raged and cooled, flared, calmed, and raged again fanned by hunger and frustration until every hidden pocket of our relationship lay bare and exposed. After a month in Europe with barely a cross word, the strain had become too much. In one not-so-glorious eruption, we made up for it—and then some.
But as all arguments eventually do, ours petered out and with grim determination, we resolved to see the opera—and to enjoy it.
We staggered back to the arena to find that only the very worst of the cheap seats were still available. No matter. We’d paid for them and now fought for them and we were damn well going to love them.
After forking out the equivalent of $15 to rent three rock-hard cushions, we climbed and climbed and climbed up, up, up to the very brink of Roman heaven to find a meter’s worth of space ten rows from the top. While we were not exactly behind the stage, we had what could best be described as a sideways backside view.
A food vendor sold us drinks and desiccated ham sandwiches, and a libretto vendor sold us Aida Cliff notes packaged in a hot pink booklet with all the words in English, Italian, German, Dutch, and French. I settled down to read the synopsis. For those who don’t know, the gist of the opera is that Aida, a slave girl in ancient Egypt, falls in love and ends up willingly burying herself alive with her lover.
And we thought our relationship had its rough spots.
As the sky darkened to deep indigo, people-squashers (seriously) waded into the crowd and directed latecomers into two-inch wide spaces, exhorting the rest of us to squeeze together. At one point, a portly German tourist fell on top of Gregg and would have bounced all the way to the bottom of the arena if Gregg hadn’t grabbed his arm and hauled him upright.
Over the course of the final twenty minutes, a voice who spoke five languages informed us that the performance would begin in twenty minutes, fifteen minutes, ten minutes, five minutes, two minutes, one minute. The orchestra struck chords, the stage lights snapped off, and the entire arena burst into flame.
Almost every member of the 20,000-plus audience set fire to the wick of a birthday candle and then held it carefully aloft so the wax wouldn’t drip down the necks of the people in front. I didn’t want to appear rude by looking behind me, but the back of my neck prickled in anticipation.
The effect of so many thousands of candles flickering in the soft evening breeze was breathtaking. For a few moments, I felt transported. Here was a lifetime experience, one to share forever at dinner parties, to cherish with secret contented smiles in the years ahead. I looked over at Gregg and grinned, our argument forgotten in the magic of the moment.
And then the music began. At least I think it did. Aida, minuscule in a gold lamé halter top (I’m not kidding), appeared on stage, and we heard a thin stream of high notes and the faint whirring of violins. I strained forward and tried to look entranced.
The opera progressed as operas do. One person sang, another person sang, they sang together, one person stomped off, another entered, etc. Every so often, chorus members clad in floor-length blue and silver robes and with faces caked in bright blue makeup drifted on to the stage and sang.
The production designer was obviously heavily influenced by mid-1970s Olympics opening ceremonies.
At one point, several cast members leapt into canoes and paddled across a pool of water. Canoes? In Italy? Our Canadian souls appreciated the gesture, but really? Meanwhile, other cast members cavorted up and down the stage waving what looked like giant wedges of aluminum foil. I couldn’t quite get the connection with ancient Egypt, but I’m not too sophisticated in these matters.
Occasionally, the acoustics improved, and we’d hear a snippet of an aria. At this point, the two women behind us started singing. Now, I have no objection to anyone expressing themselves in their own country and in their own language, but it’s difficult to retain benevolence for people who drown out the professionals with voices that, to be charitable, were really, really bad.
Who knew that outdoor opera in Italy was a participation sport? It was sort of like soccer without the sweat.
By the end of the first act, our cramped muscles and concrete-hardened butts were screaming.
“My back’s really sore!” Gregg moaned.
“I know,” I replied tightly. “Let’s go.”
“Really?” Julia looked up from the libretto. “I like it!”
Now, there was a surprise. Despite our best efforts, Julia had resisted the lure of classical music, and opera in particular. She’d consented, grudgingly, to see Aida but had vowed not to enjoy it, yet here she was asking to stay while we could hardly wait to leave. I wavered for a few seconds, not wanting to nip this new-found interest in the bud.
But then I looked at the agonized set of Gregg’s jaw. He had a pathological hatred of crowds and, as a very tall person, dreaded being cramped.
The row went on forever. I trampled toes, elicited angry gasps, felt my face burn with embarrassment. We got to the end of the row only to find…nothing. There was no way out. No aisle. Nothing. Just row upon row upon row of tightly packed opera lovers all watching the stage.
The stage? Oh no! The lights came up and the performance began again. What we thought had been the start of intermission had only been a two-minute pause.
We reached our cushions and sank down to the accompaniment of various disapproving clucks and whispered Italian curses.
Act II was excruciating, but at least it ended with the famous triumphal march loud enough to drown out the singing women behind us. The lights went up and the five-language voice promised a 30-minute intermission. From out of nowhere emerged coolers, wine glasses, and even little tablecloths as audience members settled down for a good half-time opera supper.
We resolved on escape. But to do so, we’d have to step in the tiny gaps between people from row to row in a near vertical descent.
One English woman seated next to a side railing that we—and others before us—had decided denoted a thoroughfare, hit her breaking point just as I reached her. As I gently tried to squeeze between her and the railing, she shifted her considerable bulk and left me with two equally dire choices.
I could stand still and never see my family again or I could step on the woman’s thigh. I chose the latter.
“Do you mind?” she squawked.
And then she punched me. Hard. The woman could have tried out for England’s national boxing team—heavyweight division.
“I’m doing my best!” I wailed, as my other foot landed on her ankle. I heard bone crunch and then I was free and running, expecting at any moment to be tackled to the dirt. I rounded the corner into the stairwell and almost collided with an attendant. He motioned toward my hand with his stamp. “Returning?”
He’s lucky I didn’t kill him.
Outside in the cool, uncrowded evening air, we walked past an open tent being used as a dressing room for the male chorus. Most of the men were naked except for tight blue leotards stripped to the waist and in some cases knees and leaving nothing to the imagination.
Cigarettes hung from bright blue faces, bare bottoms and sweat-slicked thighs glinted in the dusk, eyes stared with gloomy resignation.
Gregg wrapped one arm around my shoulders, I took Julia’s hand, and together we walked away from the arena and into the floodlit streets of fair Verona.
Fin de Tour de France by Gregg Simpson
About the artwork: Gregg had just finished creating Fin du Tour de France when Julia and I burst into the hotel room and dragged him out to the Verona arena and the start of an evening that became a family legend—and not in a good way, although we laugh about it now. The pastel celebrates the race to the finish line on the Champs-Élysées in Paris, French flags flying.
Enjoyed Meltdown in Verona? Download Pastel & Pen: Travels in Europe for more of my stories inspired by travels in Europe and by the pastel drawings created by Gregg Simpson.
Most of the world-class art exhibitions that were scheduled to open in galleries and museums in Europe in 2020 were postponed to later in 2021 or 2022.
The following list of art exhibitions in Europe in 2021 doubles as my personal wish list. If I’m lucky enough to return to Europe this fall, I plan to take in at least a few of them. And if not, 2022 here I come.
My list of art exhibitions in Europe includes all the exhibitions that I’d go out of my way to see, which means it reflects my interests and preferences. I hope you also find some exhibitions that pique your interest and that you are able to get to. But if not, reading about them may be the next best thing. My list also includes arts-inspired novels related to the subjects of the exhibitions. For more artsy novels, check out Art In Fiction, the sister website to Artsy Traveler.
Basel
Sophie Taeuber-Arp: Living Abstraction at the Kunstmuseum Basel
The Swiss artist Sophie Taeuber-Arp “pioneered a form of abstraction that fused elements of Dadaism, avant-garde experimentalism, and her technical training as a teacher of applied art.” Until recently, Sophie Taeuber-Arp was over-shadowed by her better-known husband, Jean Arp, but she and her work were very influential. Also, her paintings are delightful. This exhibition is the first to present a comprehensive retrospective of Sophie Taeuber-Arp’s work to an international audience.
Following its exhibition in Basel, which runs from March 20 to June 20, Sophie Taeuber-Arp: Living Abstraction travels to the Tate Modern in London (July 15 to October 17) and then to the Museum of Modern Art in New York (November 21 to March 12, 2022).
Vermeer: On Reflection at the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister
One of Vermeer’s most famous works–Girl Reading a Letter at an Open Window–has been a feature of the collection at the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister in Dresden since 1742. This masterpiece–and its stunning restoration–will be the centerpiece of the exhibition that includes nine other paintings by Vermeer along with over 50 works of Dutch genre painting from the second half of the 17th century A segment of the exhibition will also feature Vermeer’s painting technique and the recent restoration of the Girl Reading a Letter at an Open Window.
The exhibition is scheduled to run from April 6 to December 9. For more information and to purchase tickets, check the website.
Suggested Reading
Girl with a Peal Earring by Tracy Chevalier from the Visual Arts category on Art In Fiction transports readers to a bygone time and place in a richly-imagined portrait of the young woman who inspired one of Vermeer’s most celebrated paintings.
The Vermeer Deception by Jennifer S. Alderson from the Visual Arts category on Art In Fiction is a fun mystery set in Munich, Heidelberg, and Amsterdam in which an art historian finds–and then loses–a portrait by Johannes Vermeer.
London
Epic Iran at the Victoria & Albert Museum
This massive exhibition explores over 5,000 years of art, design, and culture in Iran. The Victoria & Albert is one of my favorite museums in London, and in my experience, their special exhibitions are first rate. The monumental Epic Iranexhibition includes both ancient and modern works. Here are some of the highlights:
Horoscope of Iskander Sultan from 1411
Jewelry, such as an armlet from 500-330 BC found in present-day Afghanistan
Pottery, such as a bottle and bowl with poetry from 1180-1220
Costumes, such as a woman’s jacket, blouse, and skirt from 1800
Contemporary paintings and sculptures
The exhibition is set to open on May 29. Check the website for up-to-date information.
Victoria & Albert Museum, Cromwell Road, London
Suggested Reading
The Blood of Flowers by Anita Amirrezvani from the Decorative Arts category on Art In Fiction is an historical novel set in 17th-century Persia.
The Stationery Shop by Marjan Kamali from the Literature category on Art In Fiction is an historical novel set during a time of political upheaval in Tehran in 1953.
Jean Dubuffet: Brutal Beauty at the Barbican Art Gallery
I’ve long been a fan of the work of Jean Dubuffet. Many years ago, we drove to the village of Périgny-sur-Yerres about fifteen miles southeast of Paris in search of the Fondation Dubuffet, but alas, we arrived to find it closed. Those were in the days before smartphones on which access to museum websites is now a finger swipe away. We did get to peek through the fence to see a portion of Dubuffet’s distinctive white and black sculptures. Fortunately, a few years ago we were able to clamber around Jardin d’émail (the “garden of enamel”) installed in the expansive sculpture garden surrounding the marvelous Kröller-Müller Museum near Arnhem.
The Brutal Beauty exhibition at the Barbican Gallery is scheduled from May 17 to August 22. The exhibition is the first major survey of Dubuffet’s work for over 50 years and showcases four decades of his career, including his whimsical statues, butterfly assemblages, and giant canvases.
The exhibition also includes Dubuffet’s personal collection of Art Brut works. The term Art Brut, coined by Dubuffet, translates as “raw art”.
Check the Barbican Gallery website for more information.
Dürer’s Journey: Travels of a Renaissance Artist at the National Gallery
First off, I love any excuse to visit the National Gallery in London. Its collection of masterpieces takes my breath away–from Turner to Monet to Botticelli to Artemisia and so many more. Almost every room contains a painting that I recognize. Check out this overview of the collection highlights and you’ll see what I mean.
The exhibition of work by Albrecht Dürer is scheduled to run from November 20 to February 27, 2022 and it looks amazing. Ever since visiting Dürer’s home in Nuremberg, I’ve been a firm fan. Actually, I admired his work for many years before that, but visiting his home and watching a demonstration of how he made his famous woodcuts really cemented my opinions.
Dürer’s home and museum in Nuremberg
Dürer’s woodcut of a rhinocerous
The National Gallery exhibition follows Dürer’s travels across Europe through his paintings, drawings, prints, and letters. From the exhibition description: Charting his journeys to the Alps, Italy, Venice and the Netherlands, the exhibition will explore how Dürer’s travels sparked an exchange of ideas with Netherlandish and Italian Renaissance artists, fuelled his curiosity and creativity, and increased his fame and influence across Europe.
Check the National Gallery website for more information and to get tickets. Or join the National Gallery and go for free.
Suggested Reading
The Relic Master by Christopher Buckley from the Decorative Arts category on Art In Fiction is an “hilarious, bawdy, and irreverent …tale” about a 16th-century relic hunter and artist Albrecht Dürer who conspire to fabricate Christ’s burial shroud.
Drifts by Kate Zambreno from the Literature category on Art In Fiction is a story of artistic ambition, personal crisis, and the possibilities and failure of literature in which a woman’s love for the work of Albrecht Dürer plays a role.
Madrid
Georgia O’Keeffe at the Thyssen-Bornemisza
This major retrospective of the work of Georgia O’Keeffe is the first in Spain and is a complete survey of O’Keeffe’s career from 1910 to her death in 1986. I think the exhibition may be similar to the one I saw at the Tate Modern a few years ago. If so, it’s a must-see–one of the most beautifully curated and informative special exhibitions I’ve ever seen.
If you’re lucky enough to be in Madrid between April 20 and August 8, make a beeline for the Thyssen-Bornemisza, which in itself is worth an extended visit. The permanent collection includes an awesome collection of medieval art along with major works, from the Renaissance to the 20th century.
Georgia by Dawn Tripp from the Visual Arts category on Art In Fiction is a dazzling work of historical fiction that brings to life Georgia O’Keeffe, her love affair with photographer Alfred Stieglitz, and her quest to become an independent artist.
Queen of the Owls by Barbara Linn Probst from the Photography category on Art In Fiction is the powerful story of a woman’s search for wholeness, framed around the art and life of iconic American painter Georgia O’Keeffe.
Paris
Botticelli at the Musée Jacquemart-André
Oh, how I hope I can see this exhibition! It’s scheduled to run from September 10 to January 24, 2022 which means if my planned trip to Europe in September happens, I’ll get to see it. Botticelli is one of my favorite Renaissance artists. I love the clarity of his figures, the subtle ways in which he uses color, and his depiction of draped material, not to mention the way he paints curly locks of red hair in masterpieces such as The Birth of Venus.
The exhibition at the Musée Jacquemart-André is being touted as a major survey of Botticelli’s works. Forty works by Botticelli will be on display along with several paintings by contemporaries who were influenced by him.
Botticelli is a popular subject for authors. Several novels listed on Art In Fiction are inspired by his life and work. Here are two:
Botticelli’s Muse by Dorah Blume from the Visual Arts category on Art In Fiction is a provocative historical novel about Botticelli and his conflicts with Florence’s Medici family, and the woman at the heart of his paintings.
The Most Beautiful Woman in Florence by Alyssa Palombo from the Visual Arts category on Art In Fiction is a lush and sensual interpretation of Medici Florence, artist Sandro Botticelli, and the muse that inspired them all.
Saint-Paul-de-Vence, France
The Giacometti: A Family of Creators, Fondation Maeght
The Fondation Maeght is one of my favorite museums in France and is included in my post on the Top Ten Modern Art Museums in Europe. Whenever we’re traveling in the south of France, we always stop into the Fondation Maeght to see what’s on.
Gregg at the Fondation Maeght
The Giacometti: A Family of Creators exhibition highlights the Giacometti family of artists, starting with Alberto Giacometti, its most famous member. Many of his sculptures are already permanent features in the gardens at the Fondation Maeght. Also exhibited is work by his father Giovanni, and his cousin Augusto, both painters, as well as his brothers Diego, the middle brother, sculptor and designer, and Bruno, the youngest brother and architect.
If you are able to make it to any of these exhibitions, please share your experience in the comments below.
Cathedrals are pretty thick on the ground in Europe compared to where I come from. In fact, massive stone edifices with slender columns soaring heavenward and sparkling stained glass are pretty must non-existent.
We have our fair share of churches but nothing like the ancient piles that rise from the piazzas and town squares of every major city in Europe—and plenty of not-so-major ones.
Map of the Best Cathedrals in Europe
The map below shows the locations of the Best Cathedrals in Europe mentioned in this post. Click a number to read more about the location.
I visit cathedrals to revel in the history and the art and to imagine the incredible skill and dedication required to build them so long ago. When I study just how complex these ancient structures are, I marvel anew at the ingenuity of humanity.
For this post, I’ve chosen my 8 favorite cathedrals in Europe. To be clear, not all of them are actually cathedrals, which is a specific ecclesiastical term. I’ve thrown in a basilica, a couple of abbeys, and one plain old chapel (which is anything but plain!).
I’ve left out several of the biggies, like St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome and Cologne Cathedral in Germany, that you might expect to see on a list of best cathedrals in Europe. But my aim here is to share the places that over the years have touched me the most and that I revisit every chance I get.
My choices are located in England, France, Spain, and Italy.
Durham Cathedral in Durham, England
I’ll start with my favorite cathedral in the world–the queen of all cathedrals, in my opinion. Durham Cathedral (#1) is a massive Norman pile situated on top of a bluff overlooking the River Wear.
Durham Cathedral and River Wear in Durham, United Kingdom
Unlike most cathedrals in northern Europe built in the Gothic style, Durham Cathedral dates from Norman times. Instead of slender columns and vaulted ceilings, Durham Cathedral has massive round columns and solid round arches and is one of the world’s foremost examples of Norman architecture.
Why I Love Durham Cathedral
I adore Durham Cathedral!
In fact, I love it so much that back in the mists of my past, I chose to go to Durham University for a year simply because I wanted to live in the shadow of its cathedral. I have many fond memories of visiting the cathedral, sitting quietly in the nave, and sometimes hearing the organ soar.
Interior of Durham Cathedral
Good times!
I’m not alone in considering Durham Cathedral a must-see. Bill Bryson, one of my favorite travel writers, also loves Durham Cathedral. For a time, he was even a Chancellor of Durham University.
“Why, it’s wonderful – a perfect little city – and I kept thinking: ‘Why did no-one tell me about this?’ I knew, of course, that it had a fine Norman cathedral but I had no idea that it was so splendid. I couldn’t believe that not once in twenty years had anyone said to me, ‘You’ve never been to Durham? Good God, man, you must go at once! Please – take my car’.”
Durham Cathedral Highlights
The Anglo-Saxon cathedral on the site dates from 995. However, construction of Durham Cathedral as we know it today began in 1093, making it one of England’s oldest cathedrals. Highlights of the cathedral include:
Norman Pillars
These massive carved pillars (6.6 meters round and 6.6 meters high) are one of my favorite things about Durham Cathedral. They hold up the gorgeous round arches that mark Durham Cathedral as a Norman cathedral rather than a Gothic cathedral like most of the other cathedrals in England, including York Minster and Westminster Abbey.
Shrine of St. Cuthbert
The best loved saint in the north of England is St. Cuthbert. He lived as a monk, a bishop, and finally a hermit on Lindisfarne and was proclaimed a saint in 698. His shrine is located within the cathedral.
Tomb of the Venerable Bede
The Venerable Bede was a monk who lived in the 7th and 8th centuries and is regarded as the greatest Anglo-Saxon scholar. He was declared “venerable” in 836 and canonized in 1899. His bones were brought to Durham in 1022 and eventually entombed in the Galilee Chapel in Durham Cathedral.
Open Treasure Exhibition
Various exhibitions showcasing medieval art and artifacts are featured. Check the website for up-to-date information.
Stained Glass
Enjoy the number and variety of stained-glass windows in Durham Cathedral–from medieval to modern, the most recent installed in 2010.
You’ll find plenty of things to enjoy at Durham Cathedral. After touring it, stroll down to the River Wear so you can admire the iconic view of the cathedral. When I was a student at Durham University, I spent many hours walking alongside the river and admiring views of the cathedral.
For more information about opening times, check the Durham Cathedral website.
Practical Information for Visiting Durham
Durham is located between York and Newcastle in the northeast of England. You can see it from the train. In fact, my first glimpse of Durham Cathedral was from the train when we passed it on my epic BritRail journey around Britain when I was eighteen. I knew then that I had to return!
I recommend staying a day or two in Durham to enjoy the cathedral and the lovely town of Durham and to explore the surrounding countryside. Click below for accommodation options in Durham.
The spire of Salisbury Cathedral (#2) rising above the bucolic Wiltshire countryside is the quintessential English view. Stay a night to also enjoy the charming town of Salisbury. It makes a great home base for exploring the area that includes Stonehenge just 9 miles to the north.
Salisbury Cathedral in the town of Salisbury in Wiltshire, England
Salisbury Cathedral Highlights
The ornate 13th-century cathedral built in the Gothic style is not as old as Durham Cathedral and includes a graceful 123-meter spire and a 14th- century clock that still works. Apart from the beauty of the cathedral itself, the big draw for history buffs is the display of an original copy of the Magna Carta from 1215.
After touring the cathedral, linger in the 80-acre Cathedral Close–the largest in Britain. Notable highlights include:.
Arundells
The home of former Prime Minister Sir Edward Heath houses collections of his sailing and musical memorabilia in addition to oriental and European ceramics, paintings, political cartoons, and more.
Mompresson House
This National Trust property is an 18th-century townhouse in the heart of Cathedral Close. Check out the notable plaster work, an elegant carved oak staircase, period furniture, and even a collection of 18th-century drinking glasses.
Front facade of the historic Mompesson House in Salisbury, Wiltshire
The Salisbury Museum
This fine museum houses archeological collections from the region, including the Stonehenge Gallery and displays of pre-historic, Roman, Saxon, and medieval artifacts.
Practical Information for Visiting Salisbury
Salisbury is located in Wiltshire about 100 kilometers southwest of London. The train journey from Waterloo Station takes about 90 minutes.
I recommend staying at least one night in Salisbury so you can enjoy the town and explore nearby Stonehenge and Old Sarum to the north. The bus to Stonehenge takes 30 minutes from Salisbury, or you can take a tour from London. Here are options.
Click below for accommodation options in Salisbury. We stayed in a bed-and-breakfast within walking distance of the Cathedral–a good choice if you’re not traveling by car.
It’s crowded, you must buy the audio tour, and you can only go in one direction when you tour the abbey, but OMG, it’s worth it. I never tire of visiting Westminster Abbey (#3). The history of this place coupled with the always fascinating Poet’s Corner make it a must-see every time I visit London, which is as often as I can manage!
Westminster Abbey, London
The last time I visited Westminster Abbey, I was extremely fortunate to be taken into a chapel not accessible to the public to view the tombs of John Philip Kemble and Sarah Siddons. They were the two greatest actors of the early 19th century who also make an appearance in my 3rd novel, The Muse of Fire.
I asked an attendant where the tombs were when I couldn’t find them in Poet’s Corner. She directed me to one of the abbey’s clerics who took me to the side chapel where women were arranging flowers. I could look at the 2 tombs, both decorated with large marble sculptures of the famous actors. However, I wasn’t allowed to take pictures. Still, it was a thrill to pay my respects to 2 people with whom I’d spent a lot of time while writing The Muse of Fire.
One very good thing about having to tour Westminster Abbey with the audio guide clamped to your ear is that the noise level is very low. People are too busy listening to the audioguide to talk. As a result, even with the abbey heaving with people, you still feel something of the spiritual atmosphere of a church that has played an outsized role in British history since 1066.
Before you visit, take a virtual tour to get your bearings.
Westminster Abbey Highlights
The audio tour is extremely thorough so you’ll get a lot of information about what you’re seeing as you shuffle around the abbey.
Coronation Chair
View where the kings and queens of England have been crowned for over 700 years. Under the chair is the Stone of Scone brought by Kind Edward I from Scotland to Westminster Abbey in 1295. The stone was stolen on Christmas Day in 1950. For an entertaining movie about the theft, see The Stone of Destiny.
Pyx Chamber
One of the oldest surviving parts of Westminster Abbey, the Pyx Chamber is a low vaulted room off the East Cloister that was built about 1070. You really get a feel for the incredible antiquity of the abbey in this chamber.
Royal Tombs
Westminster Abbey contains the mortal remains of 30 kings and queens, starting with King Edward the Confessor. As you tour the abbey, you’ll pass the tombs of such major figures as Edward I, Richard II, Henry VII, Queen Elizabeth I, and Charles II. Walking around the tombs is like taking a trip through English history.
Cloisters
I always enjoy walking around cloisters at cathedrals. The ones at Westminster Abbey enclose a green space with a central fountain commemorating Capability Brown, the famous landscape gardener and architect from the 18th century.
Cloisters at Westminster Abbey, London
Poet’s Corner
This area is a must-visit for artsy travelers. I could spend all day here looking for the tombs of over 100 of England’s greatest writers and poets, including Jane Austen, Charles Dickens, Thomas Hardy, Geoffrey Chaucer, C. S. Lewis, and composers such as George Frederick Handel.
Other Tombs and Memorials
Over 3,300 tombs and memorials are scattered throughout Westminster Abbey. If you’re looking for a particular person and can’t find them on the regular tour (and you know a memorial to them exists in the abbey), ask an attendant. If the tomb is accessible, you may be allowed to view it even if it is not in an area open to the public.
Check out the Westminster Abbey website to buy tickets.
Practical Information for Visiting London
London is enormous, so allocate at least 5 days to visit it and preferably a week. You won’t run out of things to see and do in London.
Sunset over Big Ben, the Parliament buildings and the Thames River in London
Here are London-based tours to consider, particularly if you are short on time.
When I visit London, I choose the most central accommodation I can find. Yes, you can find cheaper (and drearier) accommodation farther from the center, but you’ll spend more time and money commuting.
The last time I was in London, I stayed at the Cavendish Hotel near Green Park and within walking distance of the theaters in London’s West End. The location was perfect. I very rarely needed to take a tube, mostly relying on either busses or walking.
Click below for accommodation options in central London.
If you have not yet visited Sainte-Chapelle (#4) in Paris, put it at the top of your list. It’s truly one of the city’s marvels–which is saying something in Paris. Every time I visit the City of Light, I make make time to pop into Sainte- Chapelle.
What’s So Special About Sainte-Chapelle?
Two words: stained glass. The walls enclosing the top floor of the 2-storey chapel are virtually all glass. Very slender columns separate the soaring stained glass windows.
Stained glass windows of Sainte-Chapelle in Paris
Pictures can’t capture the incredible light and beauty of Sainte-Chapelle. Arranged across 15 windows, each 15 metres high, the stained-glass panes depict 1,113 scenes from the Old and New Testaments.
The chapel was built over a period of just 7 years–an incredibly fast pace for the time and why the chapel’s architecture is so harmonious.
For information about opening times, check the Sainte-Chapelle website.
Attend a Concert at Sainte-Chapelle
One of the best ways to enjoy Sainte-Chapelle is to attend a concert there. We’ve done so several times and have always been transported. It’s a wonderful artsy experience to listen to Bach, Vivaldi, and other 18th- century masters while bathed in the colored light filtering through the stained glass.
Lean your head back and look up at the star-spangled ceiling.
Ceiling of Sainte-Chapelle in Paris
Purchase tickets in advance for concerts at Sainte-Chapelle. The ClassicTic website is a reliable place to find tickets.
Practical Information for Visiting Sainte- Chapelle
Sainte-Chapelle is located on the Île de la Cité in the heart of Paris. Since the chapel is located within the precincts of the Palais de Justice, you need to go through a security screening before you can enter Sainte-Chapelle. Visit early in the day or wait until the evening and combine your visit with a concert.
While on the Île de la Cité, you’ll pass by Notre Dame Cathedral–a heartbreaking site as a result of the fire that devastated it in 2019. Repairs are underway, so hopefully one day you’ll be able to tour it again.
Here’s the Île de la Cité showing Notre Dame Cathedral before the fire. The spire in the center of the picture is Sainte-Chapelle.
Île de la Cité and the Pont des Arts at sunrise
Paris deserves at least 4 days to tour and preferably a week. I’ve stayed a month at a time and have never run out of things to see and do.
Here are Paris-based tours to consider, particularly if you are short on time.
Staying in Paris
When I visit Paris, I choose the most central accommodation I can find. Cheaper accommodation is available on the Périphérique, but the neighborhoods can be souless, and you’ll spend more time commuting to central Paris.
See my suggestions about where to stay in Paris or click below for other accommodation options in central Paris.
Chartres makes a great day trip from Paris or a stop on the way to tour the Loire Valley.
Considered one of the most beautiful in France, Chartres Cathedral (#5) is also one of the finest examples of French Gothic architecture. The cathedral dominates the delightful small town of Chartres.
The south view of Cathedral of Our Lady of Chartres, France
Chartres Cathedral has it all: graceful spires, pointed arches, flying buttresses, and magnificent 12th- and 13th-century stained-glass windows. The intensity of your visit is heightened by the fact that no direct light enters the building. All light is filtered through the stained glass, so your enjoyment of the remarkable interior of the cathedral has an other-worldly feel.
Stained-glass windows in Chartres Cathedral, France
At the center of the cathedral is a maze of 290 meters that the faithful used to follow on their knees. Ouch.
Read more about the cathedral on the Chartres Cathedral website, including information about opening times and history.
Practical Information for Visiting Chartres
Chartres is located about an hour’s drive or train ride southwest of Paris. If you decide to make Chartres an overnight stop on the way farther west to visit the châteaux in the Loire Valley, here are accommodation options:
I confess that I did not visit the Sagrada Familia (#6) until my 3rd and most recent trip to Barcelona. The first time I was 21 and intimidated by seeing phalanxes of helmeted soldiers close in around me in the Plaza Catalunya. This was during the Franco years in the 1970s. On my second visit, I’d failed to get tickets ahead of time. The line of people who did not have the foresight to book ahead stretched around the building, and so I passed.
Finally, 3rd time lucky! I purchased my ticket to the Sagrada Familia online and well in advance of my visit and happily breezed past the long line-ups of very hot tourists on a day when the temperature hovered around a very humid 35 degrees.
Sagrada Familia Cathedral, Barcelona
Even with a ticket, make sure you arrive at least 30 minutes prior to your entry time. You’ll still queue but not for as long as will the poor souls who didn’t plan ahead. When I visited at 3 pm, people were being told that the next entrance time was at 6.
The Sagrada Familia was started in the 1880s and is not yet finished. Cranes arch across the towers, and you’ll hear hammers pounding. After visiting the interior, take a leisurely walk around the building to admire the intricate sculptures encrusting the walls like artsy barnacles.
What’s Special About the Sagrada Familia?
At your scheduled time, if you’re not taking a tour, join the hordes trudging around the perimeter of the basilica to the entrance for ticket holders, and pick up an audio guide (included in the ticket price and very informative) as you enter.
Then prepare to be blown away!
The interior of the Sagrada Familia is like nowhere else on earth. Abstract patterns in blues, golds, greens, and reds bounce the Barcelona sun across faces, walls, t-shirts, and floors.
High above, star-shaped openings punch the roof to let the sun stream in like bolts of pure light.
Take your time exploring the Sagrada Familia. I suggest grabbing a pew and just sitting, listening to the audio guide and letting the beauty of the place soak in.
Regardless of your religious convictions, you can’t help but appreciate the magnificence of the architecture as a fitting celebration of spirit. You may never want to leave.
To book tickets, go directly to the Sagrada Familia website.
Practical Information for Visiting Barcelona
For more information about what to do and see in Barcelona, check out my post on Two Packed & Fabulous Days in Trendy Barcelona. In addition to my suggestions, here are tours to consider.
I recommend staying at least 2 days and 3 nights in Barcelona. Check out my suggestions for where to stay in Barcelona.
Basilica of San Vitale in Ravenna, Italy
I singled out the Basilica of San Vitale (#7) in Ravenna for this post, but when you go to Ravenna, you definitely want to visit all the churches and mausoleums containing the Byzantine mosaics dating from the 5th and 6th centuries.
Basilica di San Vitale, Ravenna, Italy
Start at the Basilica of San Vitale, which contains the most famous mosaics, including those showing the Emperor Justinian and Empress Theodora.
Byzantine mosaic representing the Empress Theodora and her court in the Basilica San Vitale, Ravenna, Italy
When you arrive at the Basilica San Vitale, buy your combination ticket for all 6 UNESCO World Heritage sites in central Ravenna.
The combination ticket is also available at a few other locations, including the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo, the Neonian Baptistry, and the Archbishop’s Chapel. Basically, buy your ticket at the first site you visit.
The sites are almost all within walking distance of each other and you’ll need a full day to see them all, with a long break to enjoy lunch in the lovely Piazza del Popolo in the center of Ravenna.
What’s Special about Basilica San Vitale
I’ve known about the Byzantine mosaics in Ravenna, particularly the ones in San Vitale, ever since I studied art history at university.
Seeing pictures of the mosaics in books was impressive enough, but the real mosaics take your breath away. You’ll also end up with a sore neck within a few minutes of entering San Vitale. Be warned and pace yourself. When you visit San Vitale, and indeed all the Byzantine sites in Ravenna, you spend a lot of time looking up.
But the pain is worth it. Built in 525, the Basilica San Vitale is by far the oldest of the cathedrals presented in this post and one of the oldest in Christendom. And yet its mosaics look like they were made yesterday. It’s almost impossible to believe they are getting on for 1,500 years old.
What also struck me was the modernity of many of the decorative elements surrounding the figurative mosaics. You’ll also see many details from the natural world, such as birds, flowers, and small animals.
Exquisite detail of the Byzantine mosaic in the mausoleum of Galla Placidia in Ravenna, Italy
Practical Information for Visiting Ravenna
Ravenna is located about 145 kilometers (a 2-hour drive) south of Venice and 85 kilometers due east of Bologna on the Adriatic Sea. The city makes a great stop either on your way to or from Venice.
I recommend staying at least a night in Ravenna so you have plenty of time to tour both the Basilica San Vitale and the other World Heritage sites containing Byzantine mosaics. Check out my suggestions for where to stay in Ravenna.
Siena Cathedral in Siena, Italy
Siena Cathedral (Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta) (#8) has so much to offer that you’ll need the better part of a day to explore and appreciate it and the adjacent museum.
Chock full of fabulous art, much of it from the 14th century (my favorite century for art!), Siena Cathedral is my top pick for best medieval cathedral in Italy.
Overlooking Siena Cathedral after a bit of a stiff climb
To start with, the exterior of the cathedral is stunning, with its black and white striped tower and super ornate facade. Dating from the 12th century, the cathedral is a masterpiece of Romanesque and Gothic architecture.
Siena Cathedral
Siena Cathedral Highlights
The interior of the cathedral is just as stunning (maybe even more so) than its exterior. Here are the highlights of Siena Cathedral and the adjoining museum.
Cathedral Floor
You’ll spend a lot of time looking down when you’re inside Siena Cathedral. In fact, its floor is the most interesting floor I’ve ever seen in a cathedral. Giorgio Vasari, who wrote the famous round-up of artists called Lives of the Most Excellent Painters, Sculptors, and Architects in the 16th century, considered the floor in Siena Cathedral the “most beautiful…, largest and most magnificent floor ever made.”
He got that right. The floor consists of 56 inlay panels created between the 14th and 19th centuries. All of the artists who worked on the floor were Sienese, except for Pinturicchio who was from Umbria. The panels represent the sibyls, scenes from the Old Testament, allegories, and virtues, and remarkably, most are still in their original state.
A panel in Siena Cathedral’s floor showing the She-Wolf of Siena dating from 1373
Piccolomini Library
I confess that I had not heard of the Piccolomini Library, which is a sad admission for a lover of medieval and Renaisannce art. But there you go, and I’ve now discovered the error of my ways.
The library is to the left of the nave when you enter the cathedral. You might need to line up to get in.
Between 1503 and 1508, Pinturicchio covered the walls and ceiling of the library with scenes celebrating the life and work of Pope Pius II. You’ll be amazed by the atmospheric landscapes, the splendid costumes of the figures, and the rich, enamelled palette. The colors look like they were applied yesterday. The frescoes truly are a wonder.
Gate of Heaven
Recently, the cathedral began to allow people to tour a series of rooms at the top of the cathedral. You can walk above the nave to admire views both inside and outside the cathedral. It looks pretty cool (I haven’t done it yet!).
Museo dell’Opera
Not all museums attached to cathedrals are worth visiting, but the Museo dell’Opera is. The museum houses numerous masterpieces. My favorite (and the biggest draw) is the Maestà altarpiece by Duccio di Buoninsegna (usually referred to as Duccio).
Duccio painted Mary and Jesus (Maestà means a madonna and child) in the early 14th century for the cathedral’s altarpiece. He is considered one of the greatest Italian painters of the late medieval period and is credited with created the paintings styles of the Sienese school.
The Duccio altarpiece is housed is quite a large room, suitably darkened and climate controlled and equipped with chairs so you can sit and contemplate this miraculous work for as long as you want.
Duccio’s Maestà altarpiece in the Museo dell’Opera at Siena Cathedral Source: Creative Commons
Duccio’s altarpiece is close to my heart because I feature it in my novel The Towers of Tuscanyabout a fictional woman painter in 14th century Italy who spent some time in Siena.
The museum also includes sculptures by Donatello, Pisano, and Jacopo della Quercia, a treasury that exhibits fabulous works by goldsmiths and jewelers, and a very rare collection of illuminated manuscripts.
I was in 7th heaven in this museum.
Practical Information for Visiting Siena
Siena is located about an hour south of Florence and 2 hours north of Rome in beautiful Tuscany. To read more about Tuscany (one of my all-time favorite places to visit in Italy), see my post on Tuscany and Umbria.
Here are other tour options in Siena and the surrounding countryside.
I recommend staying at least 2 nights in Siena to give you ample time to explore this wonderful city and to just relax in the Campo. Check out my suggestions for where to stay in Siena.
Summary
You can’t go far in Europe without coming across cathedrals and churches with historical significance. Every village has a stone church, its steeple rising above the surrounding countryside, the style changing from region to region.
If you enjoy learning about the building of the great Gothic cathedrals in Europe, then pick up copies of Ken Follett’s Kingsbridge Series. The three extraordinary novels chart the course of the fictional Kingsbridge Cathedral through four centuries. A prequel to The Pillars of the Earth is coming in September, 2020.
Do you have a favorite European cathedral or church you’d like to share with other Artsy Travelers?
Do you enjoy visiting prehistory sites when you’re traveling around Europe?
You’ll soon discover that prehistory sites abound thanks to much of Europe having been inhabited by humans for tens of thousands of years.
I love prehistory sites and go out of my way to visit them–the older the better.
You’ll find breathtaking cave paintings, soaring menhirs, mysterious dolmens, logic-defying stone alignments, and compelling archeological museums.
I get a kick out of visiting prehistoric sites built by fellow humans thousands of years before recorded history. Peering at shapes drawn on cave walls by artists who lived and loved so long ago gives me a peculiar thrill. I feel connected to the creative spirit that makes us human.
For this post, I’ve chosen seven of my favorite prehistoric sites, but these are by no means the only ones. You’ll find hundreds more scattered around the British Isles and western Europe, particularly the western edges of Brittany and the Dordogne in France, southern Spain, and the Alentejo region of Portugal.
Location of Prehistory Sites
I’ve presented the prehistoric sites from north to south and west to east. Start at Newgrange in Ireland, head south to Portugal and Spain, go north again through the Dordogne in France, and end in Brittany.
I barely scratch the surface, but that’s great news if you can’t get enough of wandering around these ancient sites.
Here’s a map of Europe showing the seven prehistory sites featured in this post. The number assigned to each site corresponds with the number on the map below.
A visit to Newgrange (#1 on the map) in the Boyne Valley in Ireland is a must for prehistory lovers.
Located about 40 minutes north of Dublin near the town of Drogheda, Newgrange is a revelation. At over 5,200 years old, it predates Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids.
Classified as a passage tomb, Newgrange is considered a place of “astrological, spiritual, religious, and ceremonial importance.”
I was blown away. Even crowded with tourists, the place exuded an energetic and spiritual pull.
Newgrange in Ireland, with a double rainbow
Who were the people who conceived and built the tomb all those millennia ago? As a result of its precise construction, a beam of light at dawn at the winter solstice penetrates the roof-box above the passage entrance and travels up the 19-meter passage to dramatically illuminate the central chamber.
Each year, people enter a lottery to witness the sunrise one morning from December 18 to December 23rd. Wouldn’t it be amazing to be chosen?
Visiting the Newgrange Prehistory Site
When you visit Newgrange, go first to the Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre to pick up your tickets (book in advance). The excellent exhibits explore the seasonal nature of Stone Age society, the monument building process, and the significance of the ceremonies associated with the monuments.
From the Visitor Centre, a shuttle bus transports you to the Newgrange and Knowth monuments. You can’t enter Knowth, but at Newgrange you’re led into the tomb on a tour. When I visited, we filed into the central chamber through the narrow passageway. The lights were doused for several seconds. In the total darkness of the enclosed space, I easily imagined myself shivering in the pre-dawn chill 5000 years ago as I waited for the sun to return at the winter solstice.
Built over five thousand years ago, Newgrange is a megalithic passage tomb. View over the entrance stone with the famous ‘Triple Spiral’ and ‘Diamonds’.
Then, light meant to represent the rising sun shone through the roof-box. For a few glorious minutes, I witnessed the magic of the light slowly extending from the floor at the base of the roof-box along the passageway to the rear of the chamber.
More Information about Newgrange
Check the Newgrange website for information about pre-purchasing tickets for the full tour that includes the Newgrange chamber. Walk-in tickets are limited, so them online as soon as you know your travel plans.
Here’s a tour that includes Newgrange, the Battle of The Boyne Visitor Centre and Monasterboice.
Newgrange is easily reached from Dublin on a day trip. I suggest homebasing in Dublin, which is such a vibrant, fun city. Don’t miss a walking tour of Dublin’s literary highlights and a visit to the Museum of Literature Ireland.
Consider staying in The Fleet, a centrally located hotel with great ratings.
#2: Avebury, England
I first visited Avebury (#2) when I was eighteen and attending Reading University in Berkshire, about an hour’s drive east toward London.
Located in Wiltshire in southwest England, Avebury consists of a massive bank and ditch enclosing an area of 28.5 acres.
Within its boundaries is the largest stone circle in Britain. At one time consisting of 100 stones, the large circle in turn encloses two smaller stone circles.
Standing stones at Avebury
The stones encircle an area that includes part of Avebury village. The site was built and altered over several centuries from 2850 BC and 2200 BC.
I like visiting Avebury because, unlike at Stonehenge, you can wander freely around the stones. While the stones themselves are not as large and impressive as those of Stonehenge, Avebury’s location in the bucolic English countryside provides much more scope for the imagination.
Visiting Avebury
Managed by the National Trust, Avebury is open during daylight hours. While you’re there, pay a visit to Avebury Manor which dates from the 12th century and in the 1930s was the home of Alexander Keiller, an archeologist who did extensive work on the Avebury Stone Circle. The Alexander Keiller Museum includes prehistoric finds from Avebury and other monuments in the area.
Here are some tours to Stonehenge that also take you through the beautiful Wiltshire countryside.
Staying in Avebury
Settle into a comfy B&B in Avebury and slow down for a while. Enjoy some country walks, hearty breakfasts, and lots of access to the Avebury stones. The B&B Dorwyn Manor is a good choice.
Other Prehistoric Sites in Southern England
This area of southern England includes many wonderful prehistoric sites, including Stonehenge and Silbury Hill. One of my other favorite places is White Horse Hill near Uffington in Oxfordshire. The white horse is one of several figures cut by Bronze Age people into the chalk downs of the area.
White Horse of Uffington – Source: Wikipedia
#3: Almendres Cromlech near Évora, Portugal
The Alentejo region of Portugal, notably around Évora, is a treasure trove of megalithic sites. In fact, the area is considered the most important area for megaliths on the Iberian Peninsula.
Most of the megaliths are standing stones that date from the Early Neolithic period (5500-4500 BC).
Megaliths abound in the fields around Évora: more than 10 megalithic enclosures, 100 isolated menhirs, 800 dolmens and 450 megalithic settlements. Wow!
Head west from Évora to the Almendres Cromlech (Cromeleque dos Almendres), a megalithic complex reputed to be one of the world’s oldest—over 2,000 years older than Stonehenge.
Almendres Cromlech near Évora
More than 100 standing stones bristle down a hillside. Wander among them at will, take pictures, and commune with the ancestral forces.
When I visited, the place was virtually deserted.
Visiting Almendres Cromlech
Follow the road signs to the site from the small village of Nossa Senhora de Guadalupe. Not far from the Almendres megaliths is the Almendres Menhir which was erected to mark the sunrise in the summer solstice
Getting up close and personal with the Almendres Menhir
Spend an afternoon driving around the area to see evidence of a civilization that flourished millenia ago.
The Almendres megalithic enclosure is the largest megalithic monument in the Iberian Peninsula and one of the oldest in the world.
Where to Stay in Évora
Delightful Évora makes a great home base for exploring the prehistory sites in the area. I loved staying in the Albergaria Do Calvário, a stylish, comfortable hotel within walking distance of the sites of Evora.
#4: Cueva de la Pileta near Ronda, Spain
The Cueva de la Pileta is definitely worth a visit if you’re traveling near Ronda and you have a car. I learned about the caves from the owner of the beautiful little hotel we stayed at in the countryside near Ronda (see below).
Gregg waiting at the entrance to the cave
The hour-long tour in the dimly lit cave took us past paintings and drawings that are at least 30,000 years old. None of the paintings is as colorful and fully formed as you’ll see in Lascaux in France, but their incredible antiquity is awesome.
The tour group is small, the footing rough, and the experience very authentic. Our guide conducted the tour in Spanish and English.
Visiting Cueva de La Pileta
You must get reservations before you visit the cave. Check the website for more information. To make reservations, call 666 74 17 75. After parking along the road, you walk up a steep, rough pathway to the cave entrance. Bring warm clothes to wear inside the cave even if the weather is hot outside. After an hour inside the cave, you’ll be chilly.
The charming town of Ronda in fabulous Andalusia is not far from the caves. Stop here for a meal and to enjoy the sunset over the surrounding countryside.
Town of Ronda at sunset
These tours take you to Ronda and around the gorgeous White Towns of Andalusia.
Where to Stay Near Ronda
I stayed in the enchanting Hotel Cortijo Las Piletas. It’s out in the countryside and so you need a car, but it’s such a relaxing place to stay with its comfortable rooms and gorgeous grounds.
#5: Lascaux, Dordogne, France
Probably the most famous prehistoric site in Europe, if not the world, is the Cave of Lascaux near the town of Montignac in the Dordogne region of France.
You can’t visit the original cave, but you can visit Lascaux IV, which is a replica of 90% of the paintings found in the original cave.
Until we visited, we thought that seeing a replica wouldn’t be worth the trip. We were wrong!
The 40-minute guided tour was wonderful and highly recommended. The unparalleled energy and beauty of the paintings is awe-inspiring.
Visiting Lascaux
For more information about visiting Lascaux, check out my post about visiting and enjoying spectacular Lascaux IV. Here’s a full-day tour that takes you to Lascaux IV from Sarlat-la-Canéda:
The area around Lascaux is teeming with prehistory. South of Montignac is Les-Eyzie-de-Tabac, where you’ll find the wonderful Musée National de Préhistoire. Start your exploration here to discover the rich paleolithic heritage of the Vézère Valley, also known as the European “Valley of Man.”
Musée National de Préhistoire in Les Eyzies
Not far from Les Eyzies is the Grotte de Font-de-Gaume where you can view over 800 engravings and drawings of prehistoric horses, bison, aurochs, lions, reindeer, and more.
The Font-de-Gaume is one of the few extensive prehistoric caves still open to the public. Check online for information and to buy tickets. Admission is limited so make sure to buy tickets well in advance.
A virtual tour of the Font-de-Gaume is also available.
Where to Stay Near Lascaux IV
You’re spoiled for choice in the Dordogne region of France. Here’s a place I’ve stayed and can recommend. It’s in Les-Eyzies-de-Tabac, location of the prehistory museum mentioned above and within easy driving distance of Lascaux IV:
The Comtesse de Dordogne in Les Eyzies-de-Tabac includes comfortable one-bedroom cottages at a reasonable price. The setting is stunning! Here’s a view of a portion of the grounds.
Known as the island of ancient stones, tiny Gavrinis is located in the Gulf of Morbihan, renowned as one of the largest and most beautiful bodies of water in France.
In an area brimming with ancient burial sites, stone alignments, and other Neolithic sites, the burial chamber at Gavrinis is considered one of the most interesting.
Aerial view of the island of Gavrinis in the Gulf of Morbihan
The Neolithic structure on the island of Gavrinis consists of a tumulus (earth mound) that covers a cairn (stone mound) that in turn covers a dolmen within which is the stone burial chamber.
At Winter Solstice, the sun shines down the passageway and hits the back wall.
What makes Gavrinis unique are the swirling patterns and symbols cut deep into 23 of the 29 rock slabs that form the 24-meter passageway leading to the burial chamber. The designs were cut into the stone over 5,500 years ago (3,500 BC) by some very artistic and amazing people.
Replica of part of the Gavrinis Passage in the Bougon Museum – Source: Wikipedia
Who were the artists who created these carvings and why did they make them? You’ll find out on the 90-minute guided tour (including the boat trip) required to view the burial chamber.
The carved patterns are startling in their modernity—zigzag lines, swirls, lozenges, and circles. Some of the shapes appear to be non-abstract objects, such as axes and horns.
Visiting Gavrinis
The island is accessible by a guided tour from the small town of Larmor-Baden. The boat trip across the sparkling waters of the Gulf of Morbihan makes the 90-minute tour especially enjoyable.
Boat trip across the Gulf of Morbihan to the island of Gavrinis
Check the Brittany Tourism site for more information about touring Gavrinis.
#7: Carnac, Brittany
After visiting Gavrinis, head a little farther north to enjoy one of the most remarkable–and largest–stone alignments in Europe. Over 3,000 standing stones march across the fields near Carnac.
Gregg still remembers fondly the morning a friendly farmer opened a gate to let him wander at will through a section of the stone alignments. Gregg didn’t know at the time that the farmer was doing him a favor and that normally, the area is off limits to tourists.
Megalithic alignments at Carnac
Visiting Carnac
Because it’s famous, Carnac can get crowded and attracts tour busses. Fortunately, you’ll find many other standing stones, tumuli, and dolmen throughout Brittany. Most of the time, these sites are deserted so you can commune in solitude with the spirits of the ancients.
Where to Stay in Carnac
You’ll find lots of choice in Carnac, which is a popular holiday destination for Europeans. On one trip I stayed at the Hotel Restaurant Spa du Tumulus Carnac which is quite posh, but it’s also out in the country and away from the sometimes frenetic scene near Carnac Plage (the beach area of Carnac).
Touring to Carnac
If you’re staying in Rennes and don’t have your own wheels, consider a guided tour. Here’s one with GetYourGuide:
Other prehistory highlights in the area include Barnenez, one of the oldest man-made structures in the world, and the megaliths at Locmariaquer.
Barnenez in BrittanyGrand menhir at Locmariaquer in Brittany
Conclusion
I never tire of seeking out prehistory sites and marveling at the intelligence that created them. So little is known about the why and the how of these incredible iterations of the creativity and drive of early humans.
As I mentioned, my list only barely scratches the surface of all the prehistoric sites scattered around Europe. As you travel, be on the lookout for stone circles, ancient caves, dolmens, and ancient burial sites.
I’ve often discovered new prehistoric sites when I wasn’t even looking for them. Check at the local tourist offices and ask your bed-and-breakfast hosts about local sites. We’d never heard of the Cueva de la Pileta until told about it by the host of the Hotel Cortijo-las-Piletas where we were staying.
I also remember stumbling across the Castlerigg Stone Circle near Keswick in England’s Lake District because I saw a sign pointing to it and, on a whim, followed it. What a magical place!
Castlerigg Ancient Stone Circle, near Keswick Town, Lake District National Park, Cumbria County, England, UK
I’ll leave you with a picture of a site that is high on my list of next-sees–the standing stones of Callanish on the Isle of Lewis in the far north of Scotland.
Callanish henge on Isle of Lewis, Scotland
Conclusion
Do you have ancient sites you’d like to tell other Artsy Travelers about? Please leave comments below and let us know about them.
Here are some more posts on Artsy Traveler about recommended sightseeing in Europe:
I originally wrote this post during lockdown in the spring of 2020! Fortunately, those dark days are behind us. However, that doesn’t mean the content in this post can’t still be relevant. No matter how much you love traveling, you may not be able to do it all the time. I know I still have long stretches of home time!
So what to do when you can’t travel? Well, you can relax, reflect, and travel from your couch or armchair or chaise lounge–whatever.
In this post, I share three ways you can get your travel fix, each made possible by the Internet.
Catch Up on Your Reading
You can always enjoy a good book and indulge your love of travel at the same time–whether you’re couch bound or plane bound.
My reading suggestions fall into three categories: travel blogs, novels, and memoirs.
Travel Blogs
One of my not-so-secret-pleasures is monthly library visits to check out an armload of travel guides about my next destination. Reading travel blogs also help you scratch the travel itch. You could spend every waking minute until the next millennium scrolling through travel blogs and still not read them all.
Narrow the field by searching for blogs about travel experiences that match your travel interests. I like the arts and so I gravitate to bloggers who, like me, showcase artsy sightseeing options and travel tips.
On Google and social media, search for your travel interests (for example, “art museums in Europe” or “traveling to Iceland”).
Several travel blogs focus on Europe and the arts (like Artsy Traveler!). Here’s a selection to get you started:
Culture Tourist: This clearly-laid-out blog by an Amsterdam-based blogger includes several virtual art museum tours.
Context Travel: This website promotes “scholarly tours for curious travelers” and includes an excellent blog. Also access “Context Conversations”, a selection of live Zoom seminars conducted by art history experts created to help them continue connecting with and educating travelers.
Culture Passport: Designated as a premier online destination for design-minded travelers, the blog features European destinations and articles about recommended art museums.
Cultural Travel: This website belongs to a UK-based travel company that no longer runs culture tours in Europe. However, the blog includes some wonderful articles about European art and culture.
Novels Set in Interesting Locations
I love reading novels set in locations I’ve either visited or want to visit. A few years ago, I traveled in Iceland and since then often indulge my Iceland fascination by reading novels that are set there.
Many novels set in Iceland are thrillers, some darker than others. I recently read and enjoyed the Reykjavik Noir Trilogy by Lilja Sigurdardóttir.
Do you have a favorite travel destination or one that you’re longing to explore? When you read novels set in places you’ve visited or want to visit, you satisfy your wanderlust while also enjoying a good story. And who doesn’t love a good story?
Trip Fiction
An awesome resource for armchair travelers is the Trip Fiction website. Here, you’ll find thousands of novels categorized by location. Select a location and view a list of novels set there.
Trip Fiction Website
Novels Set in Europe
Here’s a selection of recommended novels set in places I’ve traveled to in Europe:
300 Days of Sun by Deborah Lawrenson: A contemporary novel set in Faro in the sunny Algarve region of southern Portugal. “A deeply satisfying novel, a rich story with a strong feeling for time and place and the expert pacing of the best thrillers. Readers will appreciate Lawrenson’s ability to combine stunning atmosphere with a fascinating historical backstory.” (Booklist, starred review)
The Little French Bistro by Nina George: A contemporary novel of self-discovery and new beginnings set on the stunning coast of Brittany in northwest France. “George beautifully evokes Brittany with its rocky shores, crustacean-rich waters and Celtic origins… It’s no spoiler to say this novel offers a happy ending — and a satisfying one as well.” —The Washington Post
Brandenburg Gate by Henry Porter: A thriller set in East Berlin in the late 1980s as East Germany collapses. Winner of the CWA Ian Fleming Steel Dagger Award. “An elegant spy thriller that, I believe, John le Carré himself would be pleased to have attributed to him.” –The Guardian
Rome is Where the Heart Isby Tilly Tennant: An uplifting romance set in Rome. ”I’ve been a fan of this writer for some time now and she never fails to delight. Tilly really does have a way of captivating her readers and taking them to the settings of her stories.…Five stars!’ – The Reading Shed
Arts-Inspired Novels
My sister website to Artsy Traveler is Art In Fiction where you’ll find over 1700 novels (and counting) inspired by the arts. Many of these arts-inspired novels are set in Europe. When I want to combine my yen for travel with my love of the arts and Europe, I choose one of these novels.
I recommend you check out these arts-inspired novels set in Europe.
The Towers of Tuscany by Carol M. Cram (yes, that’s me!) tells the story of a female painter in 14th-century Tuscany. Winner of the Chaucer Grand Prize Ribbon for Historical Fiction Pre-1750s. “The Towers of Tuscany is a delightful escape to the Siena we all love. Carol Cram has crafted a delicious story about a strong woman torn between her secret past, her love of painting, and the forbidden charms of her rich patron. Hard to resist and highly recommended!” —Anne Fortier, author of the New York Times bestseller Juliet and The Lost Sisterhood
Museby Mary Novik is a fascinating historical novel set in 14th-century Provence about the woman who was the inspiration behind Petrarch’s sublime love poetry. “With Muse, Novik has crafted a heroine who pushes against the constraints of her time and station, placing her in a richly imagined world that thrums with life.” —The Globe and Mail
Jane and the Madness of Lord Byron by Stephanie Barron is a delightful mystery starring famous novelist-turned-sleuth Jane Austen and set in Brighton in the early 1800s. “Barron does a wonderful job of bringing the Regency era to life. I was fascinated with the thoroughness of her research and her grasp of the nuances of social strata, fashions, and manners of the time. ” – Art In Fiction Review
And After the Fire by Lauren Belfer is a must-read if you’re traveling to Germany and you love the music of Johann Sebastian Bach. National Jewish Book Award Winner. “Blending the gorgeousness of Bach and the horror of anti-Semitism over several centuries should make for unsettling contemplation, and readers of Belfer’s . . . know that the author will be meticulous with both fact and fiction.” – Library Journal
The Return by Victoria Hislop is a remarkable dual-time novel set in Granada during the Spanish Civil War and the present day. If you love history, flamenco, and Spain, you’ll adore this novel. “Hislop marries an epic family saga with meticulous historical research, and it’s a captivating partnership.” – Easy Living
Oil and Marble: A Novel of Leonardo and Michelangelo by Stephanie Storey brings 16th-century Florence alive in this story of the two Renaissance masters. “The artistic process can be one of self-doubt, struggle, and sheer physical exertion, and Storey depicts the drama here with truth and insight. A rewarding read for art aficionados and fans of historical fiction.”– Booklist
Travel Memoirs
The travel memoir genre has been around for centuries. When you think about it, Homer’s Odyssey is a travel memoir!
The urge to document one’s travels did not start with the invention of the blog, that’s for sure. An online search for “travel memoir” yields thousands of titles. Narrow them down by specifying a location and even a time period.
For example, a search for “travel memoir England 18th century” will uncover The Journal of a Tour to the Hebrides (1786) by James Boswell. Okay, that might be a bit obscure, but the point is that you can choose from thousands of travel memoirs, both old and new.
One of my favorite memoirs from the 19th century is Innocents Abroad by Mark Twain. He is such a delicious curmudgeon. If you’ve never read it, check it out. The Project Gutenberg version is free and illustrated. Scroll through to find places you’ve visited yourself and then read what Mark Twain had to say about them. You’ll find a lot to laugh about, I guarantee it.
Here are some good travel memoirs and travel stories to check out.
Neither Here Nor There: Travels in Europe by Bill Bryson is a laugh-out-loud-funny tour through Europe from northern Norway to Rome, and taking in Paris, Amsterdam, Cologne, and Austria among many other destinations. I’m a big fan of all Bill Bryson’s books, but this is still one of my favorites.
Driving Over Lemons: An Optimist in Spain by Chris Stewart is about the trials and tribulations of owning a sheep farm without running water and electricity in the Alpujarra Mountains in southern Spain. “Take half a cup of Bill Bryson, mix with three tablespoons of Peter Mayle, then add just a pinch of Monty Python, and what you get is Driving Over Lemons.”- Chicago Tribune
A Year in Provence by Peter Mayle is a good read and responsible for introducing millions of people to the delights of the Luberon in the south of France. I credit it with piquing my own interest in the region that has since become a firm favorite. “Engaging, funny and richly appreciative.” —The New York Times Book Review
You’ll find a lot of online chatter these days about substituting a visit to an art museum with a virtual tour. I’m not going to pretend that viewing online exhibits is as satisfying as experiencing the museums in real life. On the other hand, your feet won’t get sore and you won’t need to jostle for viewing room with thousands of other tourists.
Two virtual options are available for the art-starved traveler: Take a Virtual Tour and Explore Collections.
Virtual Museum Tours
Most of the famous museums in Europe offer excellent virtual tours of their collections, generally designed to mimic walking through the museum. Use your mouse to get a 360-degree view of a room, then zoom in on particular pieces.
Art Museums with Virtual Tours
The Google Arts & Culture website is an excellent source for virtual tours of major European art museums and artworks. Also explore the virtual tours offered by the museum websites. Here are tours of some of my favorite art museums in Europe.
Rijksmuseum From Home: Watch short videos of curators talking about the collection, take the Grand Rijksmuseum Pub Quiz, and check out the masterpieces up close and online in Amsterdam’s grandest museum.
Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam
Louvre Online: Visit the museum’s exhibition rooms and galleries and contemplate the façades of the Louvre in Paris.
Pyramid of the Louvre Museum in Paris
Centre Pompidou: Find a large collection of guided audio tours through the exhibitions and permanent collections of one of my favorite modern art museums.
Centre Pompidou in Paris
Musée d’Orsay, Paris: Take a virtual walk through galleries containing works by artists such as van Gogh, Monet, and Cézanne, among others.
Musée d’Orsay in Paris
Pergamon Museum, Berlin: The Google Arts and Culture site also includes virtual tours through the collections at the Pergamon in Berlin, perfect for fans of ancient art from the Middle East.
Museum island on Spree River in Berlin where the Pergamon Museum is located
Uffizi Gallery, Florence: The Uffizi’s sumptuous website provides detailed information and beautiful photographs of many of the major works in the museum. Read more about must-see artworks in Tuscany.
Uffizi Gallery from Ponte Vecchio, Florence, Italy
Online Museum Collections
Many of the smaller art museums in Europe include comprehensive listings of the pieces in their collections. I like zeroing in on a particular work of art or exhibit and reading about it on the museum’s website.
Museum Websites
Here are websites of some of my favorite museums in Europe.
Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna: The website includes close-up views and information about a wide range of objects and paintings from the museum’s massive collection.
Musée du quai Branly-Jacques Chirac: I love this Paris museum showcasing the arts of cultures from around the globe. Their website includes pictures and information of thousands of the objects in the collection.
Kröller-Müller Museum in the Netherlands: The collections in this wonderful museum are showcased online on the museum’s website. Make sure you pay a visit to the Sculpture Garden.
Read more about museums to visit both virtually and in person, in these posts:
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Walkabout Videos
One of my favorite thing to do while I’m working on the computer is to take virtual walks or aerial tours through places I want to visit. Like many people who work in the digital world, I have two screens set up on my desk. I do my work on one screen and load a walking tour or landscape video on my second screen.
Out of the corner of my eye, I catch glimpses of gorgeous landscapes, historic city centers, and interesting sights.
On YouTube, search for the place you want to go to along with the word “walking” or “aerial” and you’ll find plenty of options.
My favorite walking tours are videos made by fellow travelers that focus on a specific city or even neighborhood. For example, you can find numerous neighborhood walk-throughs in Paris. Watching them feels almost as good as being there as the camera glides past people enjoying outdoor cafes and relaxing in parks.
Recommended Walkabout Videos
Here’s a selection of videos to enjoy when you’re hankering for a stroll through European cities.
Paris Walkabouts: These videos generally run between 20 and 40 minutes and provide restful, walking-pace explorations of Paris neighborhoods. Explore the Marais, the Left Bank (my fave!), Luxembourg Gardens and Notre Dame after the fire, and a nice, long, 3-hour, 12-mile (19 kilometer) walk through the streets of Paris including the Louvre, Notre Dame (before the fire), the Champs-Élysées, Arc de Triomphe, and Eiffel Tower.
Walking through the Latin Quarter on the Left Bank in Paris
Florence: Take a 3-hour walking tour through the streets of Florence.
A Walking Tour through Florence
Amsterdam: You’ll find lots of walking videos in this wonderfully walkable city. This walkabout video runs about 40 minutes.
A Walking Tour of Amsterdam
Venice: Take a walking tour of fabulous Venice. I loved re-experiencing the tiny back streets of one of the most enchanting cities in the world.
Walking Tour Around Venice
Flyover Videos
Sometimes, I just want to immerse myself in amazing landscapes. Fortunately, hundreds of flyover videos are a click away. Feel like soaring over the Alps? Exploring Tuscany from the air? Cycling through tulip fields in the Netherlands? You’ll find a video on YouTube that fits the bill.
TIP: To filter out the hundreds of super-short videos, many of which are tour ads, click Filter at the top of the list of search results. Choose Long for the duration. Here are some of my favorites.
Iceland from Above: A one-hour drone flight above wonderful Iceland. Oh, how I long to return!
Cinque Terre, Italy: A flyover of the Cinque Terre coast in western Italy. Stunning scenery and gorgeous towns last for almost an hour.
Amalfi Coast, Italy: Two hours of fabulous footage of the towns on the Amalfi coast: Positano, Amalfi, Sorrento, and the coast by sea.
Lavender Fields in Provence: Oh yeah, I could watch this all day. The drone video lasts for about 20 minutes and includes magnificent vistas of lavender fields. All that’s missing is the buzz of the bees and the smell of lavender.
Germany and Austria: One hour of flyover footage featuring lots of cute towns, soaring Alps, and pretty countryside. Turn off the sound to avoid the cloying lounge music soundtrack.
Andalusia in Spain: Includes Seville, Granada, and Corboda. The shots of the Alhambra in Granada are particularly lovely.
Algarve in Portugal: Twenty-plus minutes of fabulous views of red cliffs, white-washed villages, and gorgeous blue ocean.
Watch Documentaries
I adore documentaries, particularly those about travel and the arts.
Between YouTube, Netflix and assorted other streaming services, you’ll find plenty of documentaries to keep you binge-watching for months.
Travel Documentaries
Of course, the King of travel documentaries is Rick Steves. He has recorded over 1800 hours (yes, you read that right) of travel shows. I never tire of listening to Rick extol the virtues of hiking in England’s Lake District or touring the Vatican Museums or enjoying a meal in a French bistro.
On YouTube, search for “Rick Steves” and the name of the destination; for example, “Rick Steves, Paris” and you’ll be spoiled for choice. You can also find all his videos on his website.
But Rick’s not the only game in town. Some other favorites include:
Venice, Island Treasure with Pierre Brouwers: A documentary from 2016 that goes behind the scenes of the canals, gondolas, and sumptuous palaces to explore the real city, with its inhabitants and lifestyle organized to meet the site’s geographical limitations.
Francesco’s Mediterranean Voyage: This 12-part documentary about a sailing voyage from Venice to Istanbul is hosted by the super charming Francesco da Mosto from Venice. It’s not easy to find online. Check DailyMotion to find each episode. Here is Episode 1.
Passport to Europe with Samantha Brown is an entertaining series with bubbly host Samantha Brown who offers practical travel tips and introduces viewers to “A-list” experts who share the best their cities have to offer. Find it on Amazon.
Art Documentaries
You are spoiled for choice when it comes to art documentaries. Gregg and I love art documentaries and over the years have probably watched hundreds of them. These favorites all focus on art in Europe. Find dozens more by searching keywords on YouTube and on streaming services.
Waldemar Januszczak hosts wonderful documentaries about European art, some available on YouTube, like this one on the Dark Ages in Europe. It’s very easy to get hooked on Waldemar’s pithy and often hilarious commentary. And he really knows his stuff!
Mary Beard‘s documentary on Rome: Empire Without Limit is a recent find that I highly recommend. She travels from Spain to Iran, Egypt to Scotland, and Tunisia to Greece to explore the creation, achievements, and legacy of the Roman Empire.
If you are a fan of Cézanne, this PBS video on YouTube called Cézanne in Provence will appeal.
More Resources
Check out these posts highlighting some of my favorite pieces in three art museums:
