The National Archaeological Museum in Athens is the largest archaeological museum in Greece and a must-see while visiting Athens.
As one of the world’s most important museums devoted to ancient Greek art, the National Archaeological Museum in Athens showcases centuries of ancient Greek history.
You’ll find artifacts from the earliest inhabitants to the Romans displayed in several large rooms. Information about each exhibit is provided in both English and Greek.
Orientation to the National Archaeological Museum in Athens
The National Archeological Museum (#1 on the map below) is about a twenty-minute walk or a short taxi ride from the center of Athens where you’ll likely be spending most of your time. Here’s a map showing the location of the museum along with other Athens landmarks.
Don’t be tempted to skip the National Archaeological Museum in favor of the more modern Acropolis Museum. Both museums offer different takes on the ancient world and both are well worth your time. If possible, schedule your visits on different days so you don’t get over-loaded!
In this post, I feature my favorite pieces from the Prehistoric Antiquities and Sculpture collections. Take your time wandering through the Archaeological Museum. It’s large, but not overwhelming. Many of the rooms are quite spacious and, at least when I was there in September, not crowded.
Prehistoric Antiquities at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens
Your first stop after entering the museum is the area featuring unique works of art from the major civilizations that flourished in Greece and the Aegean Sea area from the 7th millennium (that’sa long time ago) to around 1050 BC.
Discover works from the Neolithic period and the Bronze Age. Some of the most significant artifacts come from the royal tombs of Mycenae. You’ll also view evocative Cycladic marble figurines and the astonishingly well-preserved wall paintings from Thera (aka Santorini).
Mycenean Collection
Two of the many show-stoppers in the Mycenean collection are gold masks dating from the 16th century BC. The mask on the left is known as the mask of Agamemnon.
Having already visited Mycenae (see my post on the two days I spent in Nafplio during which I took a semi-private tour to Mycenae), I enjoyed seeing even more of the artifacts from that period. The Mycenaean civilization flourished between 1600 and 1100 BC, and was a wealthy and very influential culture. The beauty and intricacy of the objects, many rendered in gold, is astonishing.
Cycladic Antiquities
I’m glad I chose to visit the Archaeological Museum of Athens at the end of my trip around Greece. I had more context for understanding what I was looking at. During my visit to the Cyclades (Santorini and Naxos), I visited several small museums featuring Cycladic art and already knew a little bit about it.
I especially loved the almost alien-looking marble sculptures with their smooth surfaces and blank eyes. This little guy is playing a double flute and dates from 2800 to 2300 BC.
Antiquities of Thera
Thera is the proper name for Santorini, which was the first stop on my trip to Greece. While there, I visited the archaeological site at Akrotiri (check out my post on Santorini) where many of the artifacts in the National Archeological Museum come from.
Before it was destroyed in a volcanic eruption, Akrotiri included public spaces and three-story houses decorated with wall paintings, many of which have survived in remarkably good condition. Here are two of them. The stylization, color combinations, and sheer delicate beauty of the paintings took my breath away.
Also featured in the collection at the National Archaeological Museum are some amazing pots, my favorites being these two. It’s hard to believe that these were painted in the 16th century BC. They look so modern!
Sculpture Collection at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens
The sculpture collection occupies several rooms at the museum and presents the evolution of ancient Greek sculpture from 700 BC to the 5th century AD. The collection includes over 16,000 sculptures from archaeological sites all over Greece, not all of which are on display. Four periods are represented: Archaic, Classical, Hellenistic, and Roman.
Archaic Sculptures
My faves are the sculptures from the Archaic Period. While I appreciate the much more realistic sculptures from later periods, there’s something about the stiff, upright, far-seeing Kouros statues that just gets to me. They are over life-size and not realistic, but then they don’t pretend to be. This one is made of Naxian marble and was a votive offering to Poseidon.
Classical Sculptures
The sculptures from the classical period date from the 5th century BC. Democracy had been established in Athens and various military victories at the battles of Marathon and Plataea had resulted in an era of intellectual creativity, material prosperity, and democratic consolidation. Artists flocked to the city, and by the peak of the century, sculptors were drawing their inspiration from the idealized human body.
You’ll find a great many wonderful sculptures from the classical period to check out. One of the most famous is the statue of Poseidon. He dominates one of the rooms with his great set of abs and one arm poised to throw his trident into the waves. This imposing statue was found at the bottom of the sea in 460 BC.
Hellenistic Sculptures
The Hellenistic period runs from the late 4th to the early 1st century BC. Figures were rendered realistically, rather than in the idealized way they tended to be in the Classical period.
I was drawn to the theater masks made from marble. This one dates from the 2nd century BC and is modeled after masks used in comedy.
This grouping from 340 BC is pretty amazing, and one of several similar sculptures that were created as grave reliefs. Look at the details in the hair and beard, and the expressions on the faces!
Roman Sculptures
I got the impression while traveling around Greece that the Greeks are still none too happy that the Romans invaded their country back in the day. Occasionally, a guide would disparagingly note that a particular ruin was Roman, and they didn’t mean it as a compliment. From the 2nd century BC onwards, Greece was gradually conquered by the Romans until their eventual dominance in 31 BC.
Many of the artistic treasures of Greece were taken to Rome, which probably didn’t go over too well with the locals. Eventually, new local workshops were established to satisfy the demand for copies of Classical and Hellenistic works and by the 2nd century AD, Athens was again an artistic center.
Here are two of the many Roman sculptures in the museum. On the left is an intriguing bronze portrait statue of the empress Julia Aquilia Severa (AD 220). She doesn’t look particularly happy. On the right is a rather fine statue of the goddess Hygieia dating from AD 200 that was found at the sanctuary of Asklepios at Epidauros which we visited while staying in Nafplion.
The Jockey
One of the most famous pieces in the National Archaeological Museum in Athens is known as The Artemision Jockey. This bronze statue of a horse and jockey dates from around 140 BC, and was retrieved in pieces between 1928 and 1937 from the sea floor off Cape Artemision. Check out the boy’s expression. He’s so focused on handling his massive steed. This huge piece takes pride of place in the museum and no wonder. It’s truly remarkable.
Other Collections at the Archaeological Museum in Athens
The museum also includes a wonderful collection of metalwork, with its Bronze collection reputed to be one of the finest in the world. In addition, you’ll find an extensive collection of vases, many with the distinctive black and gold coloring.
I never get tired of studying these ancient vases with their intricately drawn scenes. If I ever decide to write a novel set in ancient Greece, I can see myself spending a lot of time studying the imagery on the vases to learn what people wore and how they lived.
Check out this vase depicting a man placing a child on a swing. Sweet or what?
And just in case you haven’t yet slaked your appetite for looking at antiquities, check out the Egyptian and Cypriot collections, both world renowned.
Practical Information
From November 1 to March 31, the National Archaeological Museum in Athens is open from Wednesday to Monday from 8:30 am to 3:30 pm and on Tuesdays from 1:00 pm to 8:00 pm. From April 1 to October 31, the museum is open from Wednesday to Monday from 8:30 am to 8:00 pm and on Tuesdays from 1:00 pm to 8:00 pm. The museum is closed on December 25 – 26, January 1, March 25, May 1 and Orthodox Easter Sunday. Admission costs 12€ from April 1 to October 31 and 6€ from November 1 to March 31.
Where to Stay in Athens
On our recent trip to Athens, we stayed in two places: a holiday apartment for two nights and a hotel for one night. I highly recommend both, which are in neighborhoods convenient for sightseeing in Athens.
Karma Apartments
Steps from the lively Plaka district on a quiet side street, Karma Apartments is a real find in Athens. The one-bedroom apartment on the top floor of a building containing other holiday lets includes a large terrace with a peekaboo view of the Acropolis.
Hotel Lozenge
On our last night in Greece, we stayed at the Hotel Lozenge in the upscale Kolonaki neighbourhood. This is a great choice for a business-style hotel with comfortable rooms, an attached restaurant, and very helpful staff.
Athens is more than its antiquities, but wow, they sure do have incredible antiquities! Take the time to wander through the rooms at the National Archaeological Museum to marvel at the some of the most beautiful sculptures and other objects ever made by human hands. And then when you’re done, go enjoy a tasty Greek meal (every meal I had was tasty!) and relax.
You’re in Athens and life is good. Here are more posts about travels in Greece:
Ah, the Acropolis of Athens! It is the pinnacle of Greek culture and a mecca for cultural travel. It’s both a graceful monument to the old gods and a tourist attraction famed for the number of visitors willing to risk heatstroke to see it in all its rubble-strewn glory.
Of all the many archaeological site scattered across Greece, the most famous by far are the imposing collection of temples perched atop the hill in the middle of the busy city of Athens.
The hill is called the Acropolis and the big temple in the middle is called the Parthenon, but people often use the two terms interchangeably.
A UNESCO World Heritage site, the Acropolis inspires millions of visitors every year to make the long trek from the ticket office to the temples, puffing up stone steps that go on forever (or at least feel like they do). There is no shade; for several months of the year, the sun can be life threatening; and you make the trek with thousands of fellow visitors.
Unless you’re visiting in the depths of winter, forget romantic thoughts of strolling up the steps in solitary communion with the ancient Greeks.
I’m actually surprised so many people visit the Acropolis. And yet they do. Thousands upon thousands of them visit every day—young and not so young, fit and definitely not fit, and from all over the world. The Acropolis is the must-see hit of Athens.
You can’t go to Athens and not climb to the Acropolis. Not to do so is probably illegal.
Read on for more about my experience and my recommendations for comfortably visiting the Acropolis and the must-see Acropolis Museum.
When It’s Too Hot to Visit the Acropolis
Officials sometimes close the Acropolis on summer afternoons when temperatures soar to the high forties Celsius. I can’t even imagine how hot that must feel. With no shade on the way up, such high temperatures plus bare rocks equal a searing experience.
If you’re visiting on a particularly hot and crowded day in the summer, I recommend just admiring the Acropolis from afar. Why risk heat stroke?
Instead, visit the wonderful (and air conditioned) Acropolis Museum and/or the National Archaeological Museum (check out my suggestions for touring!), enjoy a leisurely lunch, do some shopping, do some people-watching of the modern Athenians, and maybe take a peek at some of the lesser-known and much less crowded archaeological sites. You’ll still see the Acropolis from just about anywhere you walk in central Athens. Let that be enough.
Here are some tours from Tiqets.com that don’t include the Acropolis!
Visiting the Acropolis of Athens in the Late Afternoon
When the heat is manageable, consider visiting the Acropolis in the late afternoon. The crowds start to thin out, the temperature starts to cool, and sunset is imminent.
Here’s what I did during a visit with my daughter in mid-September.
My Visit to the Acropolis in September
We arrive at the ticket area near the main entrance to the Acropolis site at 4:30 pm to find that tickets for the 4:45 time slot are sold out, with the next available time slot being 5:45 pm.
If you go in the late afternoon, you may be lucky, like we are, and only wait an hour to get in. If, however, you are visiting at other times of the day or during the summer, buy your tickets online several days before your visit.
To Combo or Not to Combo?
Your big decision when buying your ticket to the Acropolis is whether you should buy a single or a combo ticket. The single ticket costs €20 and the combo ticket costs €30.
The single ticket only gets you into the Acropolis & Slopes within a 30-minute time frame from 15 minutes before to 15 minutes after your selected time slot.
The combo ticket gets you into the Acropolis & Slopes at your appointed time and into the Ancient Agora, Hadrian’s Library, Kerameikos, Aristotle’s School [Lyceum], Olympieion, and the Roman Agora anytime within five days of the ticket date. That’s a lotta ruins!
With only a day and a half in Athens, we decide to throw caution to the wind and buy the combo tickets. I figure that for the extra €10, we’re bound to visit at least one of the other sites. Most of them cost around €10, so we only have to visit one additional site to get our money’s worth.
We visit the Ancient Agora the day after our visit to the Acropolis, so for us, the combo ticket paid for itself, just. Here’s some advice on How to Spend a Perfect Artsy Traveler Day in Athens that includes a visit to the Ancient Agora.
Here’s the fabulous Temple of Hephaestus in the Agora.
I recommend you buy the combo ticket if you think you’ll have time to explore other sites. The Ancient Agora is definitely worth a visit.
After buying combo tickets, we go in search of a café to have a drink while we wait. My daughter, Julia, chooses a donut that looks like it will be a tasty, if indulgent, treat.
Unfortunately, it’s drier than a vat of pixie dust. We should complain and get our €3.50 back. But I don’t have the heart since the server was so cheery when she seated us. We leave the donut virtually untouched and return to the ticket office.
NOTE: Avoid the string of cafés a few steps from the entrance to the Acropolis. There are many better places to eat in the nearby Plaka district.
Joining the Line to the Acropolis of Athens
We arrive back at the line at 5:30 and join the queue. There are quite a few people, but not so many that we feel overwhelmed. Precisely at 5:45, the turnstiles open and the line moves with surprising briskness.
Soon we’re through and ready to begin the long climb up to one of the world’s most iconic sites.
OMG! I’m at the Acropolis! Socrates walked here. Plato pontificated here. Thousands of believers made their way across these very slick stones to climb to the temples and worship the gods.
It’s one of those “pinch me” moments that make travel worthwhile.
Have you been to the Acropolis in Athens?
Oh yes. It was marvelous.
Fortunately, most people move quite slowly, what with stopping every two meters to snap pictures, so the climb feels less strenuous than it would be if the place were empty. Every few steps, we get to pause, admire the view, and catch our breath.
I listen to a Rick Steves audio commentary as I climb and learn all sorts of interesting things about what I’m seeing. I recommend Rick’s commentaries—they’re fun, informative, and not boring.
The Odeon of Herodes Atticus
On the way up to the Acropolis, we pass the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. It’s a superb open-air theater with seating for 5,000 spectators that is still used for performances. Built in 161 AD, the Odeon of Herodes Atticus has hosted stars such as Elton John, Pavarotti, Frank Sinatra, and Sting.
Caption: Odeon of Herodes Atticus on the Acropolis Slopes
Slowly, slowly we climb up and up Acropolis hill until we face the monumental entrance to the Acropolis—enormous pillars soaring into the cloud-studded Athenian sky. I am suitably awed and snap away happily along with a few hundred of my fellow climbers.
Approaching the entrance to the Acropolis in Athens
What’s Up Top at the Acropolis of Athens?
When, finally, we make it to the top, all of Athens is laid at our feet which is pretty danged spectacular. We’re also standing in the shadow of the mighty Parthenon which, despite the scaffolding and the missing columns, is magnificent.
It’s the very definition of iconic.
People are everywhere, but it’s not difficult to crop them out of pictures, and everyone is in good spirits. After all, they’re in the midst of crossing a major experience off their bucket lists. Also, the temperature at around 28 C degrees with a nice breeze and the sun fast setting is just about perfect.
The front façade of the Acropolis
Warning: No Disrespecting Allowed
Resist the temptation to engage in any shenanigans while snapping pictures of the monuments of the Acropolis. Guards patrol the perimeter on the lookout for anyone daring to make light of Greece’s national treasures. They frown on people mugging for the camera with excessively silly poses or acting in any way disrespectfully.
Temple ofErechtheion at the Acropolis of Athens
The beautiful temple of Erechtheion with its columns made from the figures of women is a highlight of the Acropolis. The original statues are in the Acropolis Museum, which I talk about later in this post. The statues you’ve climbed up to see are reproductions.
But the temple is still wonderful! Who cares that most of it was rebuilt in modern times?
The Temple of Erechtheion on the Acropolis
The Parthenon
The main activity at the top of the Acropolis is walking around the Parthenon and snapping pictures of the Parthenon along with the other temples and the view of Athens from every angle.
You can eavesdrop on tour groups or listen to an audio guide to learn more about the site, or you can just look and enjoy.
The attraction of the place is its hold over our collective imaginations. The Acropolis of Athens symbolizes much of what is good in western culture as defined by the ancient Greeks. Their contributions to medicine, theater, literature, language, architecture, sculpture, and a whole lot of other useful pursuits have lasted millennia.
The world owes a lot to the Greeks, and the Acropolis of Athens stands proud witness to that debt.
We circle the Parthenon, admiring its perfect dimensions and lamenting its sorry state of disrepair. Over the millennia, it was bombed by the Venetians, had a mosque built inside of it by the Ottomans, and had bits of it removed by a certain British lord whose name begins with E.
Many Greeks are not happy that their “Elgin” marbles were removed from the Acropolis back in the day and are still in the British Museum. I hope they get them back so they can be installed in the gorgeous new Acropolis Museum that we visit next.
Temple of Athena Nike
Athena, goddess of wisdom, crafting, and victory, is one of my favorite goddesses. Perched at the edge of a cliff, the temple dedicated to the goddess Athena is the smallest temple at the Acropolis. It was built in the Iconic order (my favorite of the three orders) in 420 BC.
Sunset Over Athens
The sun is starting to sink over Athens and the guards start ushering people towards the exit. Although the Acropolis is supposed to stay open until 8 PM, that’s not exactly the case. I suppose they want everyone off before darkness falls which, considering the roughness of some of the steps, is a good idea.
The journey back down the slopes of the Acropolis is much easier than the journey up. Before long, we’re back in front of the Acropolis Museum.
Because it’s a Friday, the museum is open until 10 PM. Visiting it after an early evening climb to the Acropolis makes a perfect ending to an Acropolis outing.
Accessing the Acropolis via Elevator
If you are not able to climb the many, many steps to the Acropolis, you may be able to use the elevator. Thank you to a commenter on this post for reminding me that an elevator is available.
Note that access is strictly controlled. You need to prove you are disabled, and should call ahead to check availability. The number is +30 210 3214172 or +30 210 9238470
The ride up takes just 32 seconds!
Visiting the Acropolis Museum
This museum is an Athens must-see. It’s brand new and gorgeous and is equally awesome whether visited before or after climbing to the Acropolis. And if the weather and crowds prevent you from making the climb, the Acropolis Museum is a fine consolation prize.
Entrance to the Acropolis Museum in Athens
The three floors of the museum are large and airy with beautifully curated displays of artifacts from the Acropolis of Athens. In addition, informative videos, and lots of information in English, bring Greek history to life.
Allow at least two hours to tour the museum.
A highlight for me are the original statues from the Temple of Erechtheion. The details in the robes and hair of the women are astonishing.
On the top floor, you can see great views of the Acropolis. Since we are visiting in the evening, the floodlit ruins appear to float in the night sky.
Also on the top floor is the glass-encased “Parthenon Gallery” on which the relief sculptures of the Parthenon frieze are exhibited in continuous sequence around all four sides, mimicking the real Parthenon.
While most of the sculptures were long ago plundered by Lord Elgin, enough remain to give an idea of the splendor of the original building.
Plenty of information is provided to help visitors visualize the original friezes as well as understand the significance of the sculpted figures. It’s a pretty cool experience to walk around the four sides of the massive structure on the top floor, occasionally glancing out the window to see the real Parthenon rising into an indigo sky from the moonlit Acropolis.
On the ground floor, wide expanses of glass that you can walk over allow you to view the active archaeological dig below ground.
When to Visit the Acropolis Museum in Athens
I highly recommend visiting the Acropolis Museum in the evening, if possible. We pretty much had the place to ourselves for the entire visit. Earlier in the day, the museum can get very crowded because people often go to the Acropolis first and then visit the museum.
Here are some options for purchasing tickets to the Acropolis and the Acropolis Museum.
Where to Stay in Athens
On my recent trip to Athens, I stayed in two places–a holiday apartment for two nights and a hotel for one night. I can highly recommend both places.
Karma Athens: Located on a quiet street just around the corner from the lively Plaka district, Karma Apartments was the perfect place to stay in Athens. Our one-bedroom apartment included a private terrace that featured a peek-a-boo view of the Acropolis.
The building contains only holiday lets so it’s more like a hotel, but without a reception. However, there was an attendant there when we arrived early who kindly stored our luggage until the apartment was ready and then carried it up to our apartment on the top floor. The stairs were steep but the climb was worth it.
Hotel Lozenge: This business hotel located in the high-end Kolonaki area of Athens, and within easy walking distance of most of what you’d want to see in Athens, is clean and modern with a friendly staff and an attached bar-restaurant.
We stayed one night before flying home the next morning, and it was an excellent end-of-trip choice.
Conclusion
The Acropolis of Athens is a definite must-see if you can avoid risking heatstroke or standing in long lines for hours on end. Go late in the afternoon, if possible, scheduling your visit to the Acropolis Museum for when the museum is open late, and take your time.
It’s likely you’ll only make the climb up to the Acropolis once or twice in your life. Make sure the experience is one you look back on with fondness, remembering the thrill of treading in the footsteps of the ancients rather than the tedium of inching painfully across sun-baked stones.
Have you visited the Acropolis in Athens? Share your experience and recommendations in the Comments below.
Take a private guided tour to Mycenae, Corinth and Epidaurus
Stay at 99 Dream Vacations, a reasonably-priced apartment in the center of old Nafplio
Overview of Nafplio
Compared to Santorini, Nafplio feels deserted. One reason is that the large cruise ships don’t come here. As a result, most visitors either pop in for a quick visit on a tour from Athens, or stay a night or two. Many use the town as a home base to explore nearby ancient sites.
In this post, I share my suggestions for things to do in Nafplio and how to allocate your time. I suggest spending three nights and two days, with one day devoted to a tour of Mycenae, Corinth, and Epidaurus.
History of Napflio
Nafplio, also known as Nafplion and Nafplia, was the first capital of Greece from 1828 to 1834 following the Greek War of Independence.
The history of Nafplio is fascinating. Back in the 15th century, Venice conquered the region and left behind three formidable fortresses—one high atop an imposing cliff that looms over the town, one on a peninsula not visible from the town, and one out in the harbor.
Floodlit at night, the two fortresses visible from the seafront add a romantic touch to this elegant little town.
Getting to Nafplio
After a three-hour ferry ride from Naxos to Piraeus (check out my post about our three nights on beautiful Naxos), we take a private transfer to the charming city of Nafplio, a two-hour drive on a mostly empty highway.
The cost of the private transfer is about $250 and while not inexpensive, it was a much more convenient way to get to Nafplio from Piraeus. The alternative would taking a taxi into Athens and then catching a bus to Nafplio or renting a car.
When you are on a fairly tight itinerary, spending extra to save time makes good sense.
You could visit Nafplio on a day trip from Athens, but don’t! As mentioned above, Nafplio is worth at least two nights and preferably three or four.
Arrival in Nafplio
The driver drops us off in the little square in the middle of Nafplio old town a few meters above our place and points down a narrow alleyway.
Your apartment is down there.
Okay…
We trundle down the narrow street to another narrow street flanked with souvenir stores and look around hopefully. Julia spies the name of the apartment high up on a wall: 99 Dream Vacations. Now all we need to do is get in.
Staying in Nafplio
I text our host and, to my relief, she rounds the corner into our street minutes later and lets us into a beautiful apartment complete with high wood-beamed ceilings, a comfortable living room and two bedrooms.
The kitchen is stocked with provisions for breakfast—tubs of creamy Greek yogurt, along with eggs, fruit, bread, and enough coffee pods to keep me well caffeinated for the entire stay.
I highly recommend 99 Dream Vacations if you’re looking for a centrally located and reasonably-priced apartment. Here are photos of the living room and adjacent dining room.
Getting to Know Nafplio
On our first evening, we stroll around the cute streets of the old town of Nafplio, all brightly lit until late in the evening, and share a very tasty pizza at a café overlooking the Bourtzi fortress in the harbor. The fortress is one of three built by the Venetians.
As usual, the service is efficient and friendly. During our entire 16-day trip in Greece, we never once experienced poor service.
After dinner, we treat ourselves to an Italian gelato at a gelateria reputed to serve the best gelato in Greece. The server greets us in Italian, and the gelato is indeed excellent. Several hundred years of Venetian occupation have left their mark on Nafplio.
Day 1 in Nafplio – Exploring the Town
Our first full day is a semi-down day with very little planned beyond taking a cooking class at 5 pm. Nafplio is a charming and walkable town, but it’s fairly low on sights.
I recommend checking out the Archeological Museum and the Venetian Fortress of Palamidi (also known as Palamidi Castle) perched high above the town, and then spending the rest of the day relaxing, shopping, eating, and strolling (not necessarily in that order).
Archeological Museum of Nafplio
After breakfast at an outdoor cafe in Nafplio’s old town, we head to the Archeological Museum to learn all about the early inhabitants of the area—some dating back 30,000 years. This is a very old part of the world!
The Archeological Museum in Nafplio is well organized and compact and definitely worth a visit if you are interested in ancient history (and hey, you’re in Greece!).
The permanent collection includes artifacts dating from the Paleolithic period to Roman times. The most important exhibits are associated with the Mycenaean centers of the region.
All the exhibits include informative English captions. I particularly like the collections of pots, including a well-preserved Octopus pot.
A highlight of the museum is a suit of bronze armor that was found in a chamber tomb dating fthe 15th century BC. Check out the boar tooth helmet. Imagine how many boars gave their lives to make that helmet.
I also snap a picture of three reconstructed theatrical masks. As a former theater major (back in the day, I got my Master’s in theatre from the University of Toronto), I have a soft spot for Greek theater and am looking forward to our visit to the ancient Greek theater at Epidaurus.
Tourist Train in Nafplio
With the clouds threatening rain, we set off after our visit to the museum to find the hop- on-hop-off tour bus that will, according to the guidebook, take us up to the fort.
We could climb the 999 steps from the town to the top, but we won’t.
Fortress of Palamidi seen from Nafplion
At the bus stop, we discover a little tourist train next to a sign advertising a 20-minute meander around the town. With 30 minutes to spare before the hop-on-hop-off bus arrives, we decide to give the tourist train a whirl.
Feeling like toddlers on a day trip, we clamber into the train which sets off at a painfully sedate pace. My great-grandma could walk faster.
The English commentary is not particularly compelling and the only charming streets we putter down are ones we’ve already walked along.
Tourist train in Nafplion
At one point, we squeeze past the café where we had breakfast. We want to sink through the floor as the server catches our eye and kind of smirks as if to say, Really? You fell for the tourist train tour? Don’t you know it sucks?
She is right. For the next twenty minutes, we chug along, often stuck for several minutes in traffic with nothing to see either side but graffiti-scrawled walls and kids playing volleyball at the local high school.
The train circles through the modern part of the town which doesn’t have much to recommend it, with some vistas appallingly ugly.
Not all of Nafplio is charming
Finally, excruciatingly, we arrive back at the parking area only to discover that the bus has already left. So much for that plan! But no matter; the skies have been steadily darkening and we feel a few raindrops.
Rather than go up to the fort where the main attraction is views of the sea, we decide to head back to our lovely two-bedroom apartment for some R & R.
I write for a while, nap for a while, and around three o’clock, the skies clear and we venture out again.
Fortress of Palamidi
We have two hours before we need to be at our cooking class, so we catch a taxi up to the fort. The driver says he’ll return for us in one hour and that we can pay him then.
I’d read that the taxi ride from the town to the fortress should cost about 10 euros so I figure that I may as well give him my 20 euros for a round trip rather than take my chances that a taxi will be available when we emerge from the fort.
We wave a cheery good-bye to the driver and set off to explore the Venetian fort. There’s not much left of the fort itself, but the views are jaw-droppingly stunning.
We clamber and climb over the remains of the ancient fortifications, snapping picture after picture of views Nafplio that go on forever. It’s a wonderful place to visit—a Nafplio must-see for sure.
After much climbing and snapping photos of views of Nafplio, we enjoy a drink at the tiny concession inside the Palamidi Fortress.
We exit the fort precisely one hour after we arrived and find our driver waiting.
After a few wrong turns, he drops us off at Savor Nafplio Cooking School a few minutes before 5 pm. He also charges us 40 euros for a round trip that should have cost 20 euros. But what to do? I hand over the cash and chalk it up to one of the few times we are ripped off in Greece.
The cooking class is a must-do! See my post all about it.
Day 2 in Nafplio – Tour of Ancient Sites
We’re up early on our second full day in Nafplio to take a guided tour of the major archeological sites in the area: Mycenae, Corinth and Epidaurus.
I’ve read about these places for decades and seen pictures, so I’m beyond excited to finally see them in real life, especially the ancient theater of Epidaurus.
If you have a car, you can take day trips from Nafplio to visit the ancient sites. We did all three in one day, which felt very doable.
A few minutes before 9 am, we walk into the small square near our apartment and meet our driver, George. To our delight, we’re in a small van rather than a bus and traveling with just two other people—a honeymooning couple from New York.
George inches the van down a very narrow street lined with stone houses on one side and restaurant tables and chairs on the other. He makes it to the end of the road unscathed and then negotiates several tiny maneuvers to coax the van around a very tight corner hemmed in on two sides by parked cars that he passes with centimeters to spare.
It’s an impressive display of driving skill, and I feel we are in good hands.
George sets off towards the ancient city of Mycenae. He is very enthusiastic about the Mycenaeans, a still-mysterious culture that thrived around 3000 to 1700 BC, after the Minoans, but well before the Athenians (500 to 300 BC).
Mycenae
Around 1600 to 1200 BC, the city of Mycenae ruled its mighty empire from atop a hill now littered with evocative ruins and some truly marvelous tombs. Historians don’t know all that much about the Mycenaeans—who they were, where they came from, and what happened to them.
We do know that around 1200 BC, the Mycenaeans defeated Troy and became the rulers of the Aegean before mysteriously disappearing from the ancient map.
Tomb of Agamemnon
Our first stop is known colloquially as the Tomb of Agamemnon. It is very likely not Agamemnon’s tomb, but calling it the Tomb of Agamemnon is better than calling it the Tomb of Some Bronze Age Dude We Don’t Know.
Its other name is the Treasury of Atreus, which isn’t nearly as romantic nor as descriptive since the site is, definitely, a tomb. Or was.
We are the only people at the site until the honeymooners catch up with us, and I am thoroughly verklempt. Here’s the entrance to what is called a beehive tomb.
The interior of the tomb is massive, its high stone ceiling a testament to Bronze Age architectural know-how. The walls of horizontal stone blocks rise up and up to a height of more than 13 meters, decreasing in diameter the higher they go until the dome is closed.
I breathe in the smell of ancient stone and let my imagination soar to the height of the tomb. This place is almost 4000 years old. It was already ancient history when Plato walked the earth.
Try to arrive as early as possible, preferably just after the site opens to avoid the crowds. I am so grateful I was able to see the tomb on my own rather than with five dozen people all crammed together and simultaneously snapping photos. Talk about an imagination killer.
The honeymooning couple take our picture all alone in front of the tomb. Very soon, taking this same shot with no one else in it would be impossible.
In the five minutes it takes for George to drive from this site to the main site of the Mycenae Acropolis, five tour buses have pulled in. The early visitor definitely gets the best shots.
Palace of Mycenae
The sparse ruins of the palace high on a hill overlooking a spectacular view are pretty much all that’s left of a great and powerful empire. But one element is a show-stopper—and that’s the famous Lion’s Gate that dates from around 1300 BC.
I remember seeing pictures of it back when I first studied art history. It was touted as an incredible engineering achievement, considering its age. In fact, the relief of the lions is the oldest monumental relief in Europe.
The stone lintel upon which the carving of two headless lions sits weighs over 18 tons.
The Lion’s Gate at Mycenae
Awestruck, I pass through the gate and then start the climb to the top of the site. Those ancient Mycenaeans must have been in great shape. The climb is steep but worth the effort.
At the top, I take this panoramic video that shows the beauty of the surrounding countryside.
I’m captivated by an area of the ruined palace called the Artisan Quarter. This was once an extensive building complex that consisted of two stories (although only the foundations survive). Based on finds such as ivory objects, gold leaf, and remnants of semi-precious stones, archaeologists believe the buildings must have contained artists’ workshops.
Hmm, a novel about a Mycenaean jewelry maker? Maybe he’s kidnapped by the Sea People (Sardinian pirates, some think) who allegedly are responsible for conquering and destroying Mycenae? Maybe he’d taken on board a ship and rowed to Sardinia?
Contemplating the glimmerings of a plot keep me entertained when we’re back on the road driving to our next stop.
Archeological Museum at Mycenae
As with every ancient site I visited in Greece, Mycenae includes a small archaeological museum. I am particularly taken by the extensive collection of carved figurines and an intriguing ceramic snake.
Ancient Corinth
Our next step is the ancient city of Corinth. In around 400 BC during Greece’s Golden Age, the city was one of the country’s largest and most important cities, with a population of 90,000. And then the Romans swept in during 146 BC, demolished the city as they were often wont to do, and built a new city in its place in 44 BC.
As a result, most of the ruins and the artifacts in the museum are Roman, not Greek.
Nevertheless, the site is pretty darned evocative. With the sky studded with interesting clouds, I snap some good photos of the remains of a Doric temple.
Corinth is famous with Christians because of the two letters that Paul wrote in the New Testament. Several tours led by Christian clerics were prowling the site while we were there, some even gathered in circles and singing and/or praying.
The ruins are quite extensive and worth visiting. The museum also merits a look. It contains a courtyard full of Roman statues along with other artifacts, including this well-preserved mosaic.
After wandering around the ruins for a while and visiting the museum, we enjoyed a tasty and reasonably-priced traditional Greek lunch at a small nearby piazza ringed with restaurants and souvenir shops.
Corinth Canal
Nowadays, most cruise ships and freighters can’t squeeze through the Corinth Canal, but it’s still a marvel of engineering. From a vantage point on a bridge high above the canal, it’s hard to believe the canal is 24.6 meters wide and 6.4 kilometers long. From the bridge, the canal looks a lot narrower and shorter.
As far back as the 7th century BC, engineers dreamed of building a canal to connect the Gulf of Corinth in the Ionian Sea with the Saronic Gulf in the Aegean Sea. Even Nero had a go. He actually broke the ground with a pickaxe and removed the first basket load of soil in 67 AD.
But then he died and the project was abandoned. It wasn’t until 1893 that the canal was finally built.
The Theater at Epidaurus
For me, the ancient theater at Epidaurus (a UNESCO World Heritage site and rightly so) is the highlight of the day. I’ve read about it and seen pictures, but nothing prepared me for its sheer size and grandeur.
Regarded as the best-preserved ancient theater in Greece, the theater was constructed in the late 4th century BC and is still used for performances.
Our guide, George, tells us that he saw a performance of Oedipus Rex in the theater when he was five and cried loudly when Oedipus died, thinking it was all real. He still comes to performances and brings his own children, assuring them it’s all make-believe.
Arrival at the Theater
The pathway from the entrance to the theater ends at the stage with the rows and rows of seats fanning upwards in a half-shell.
From the stage, the theater doesn’t look that big and I’m just a tad disappointed.
Climbing up the Theater
But then I start to climb—up, up, up with my heart pumping and my sore knees screaming. I count each step, pausing occasionally to catch my breath and note how much farther I have to go (far!).
Finally, I make it to the top and look down. A wave of vertigo makes me clutch the nearest railing. Yikes, I’m high.
The magnificent theater spreads out before me, perfectly engineered and harmoniously constructed. It’s like a poem in stone.
Waaaaay down on the stage, I hear people testing the famous acoustics that allegedly allow all 15,000 spectators to hear a pin drop.
I recommend you make the trek up the stairs to the top of theater if at all possible. You really can’t appreciate the breadth of this marvel until you see the whole theater spread before you with the hills and sky beyond.
Around the Theater
The theater is situated near the ancient sanctuary of Asklepios, which was a celebrated healing center in ancient times and dedicated to Asklepios, the god of healing.
After visiting the theater, we wander through the extensive archaeological site dotted with columns and various and sundry ruins.
It’s an extremely pleasant place in which to imagine ancient people streaming along the walkways to see a performance by that new guy, Euripedes.
Back to Nafplio
It’s been a good, long day of sightseeing. Just as we pull away from the site, the heavens open. George slogs valiantly through a violent rainstorm, but fortunately, before we have time to worry about flooding, the sun bursts out and all is well with the world for the rest of the trip back.
We spend our last evening cruising around the picturesque streets, enjoying yet another tasty Greek meal (they’re all tasty), soaking up the atmosphere in lovely Syntagma Square, and picking up a few souvenirs.
Here’s the main plaza at night.
Tours Around Nafplio
GetYourGuide offers tours of the ancient sites on the Peloponnese Peninsular that are easily accessible from Nafplio. Many more tours depart from Athens, but then you’re faced with a much longer drive each way and may not find as many small group tours.
Here’s an option for a private guided tour to the archaeological sites:
If possible, see the ancient wonders of Mycenae, Corinth and Epidaurus from your home base of Nafplio. You’ll have more time to tour the archaeological sites as well as spend some quality time in Nafplio.
Win-win.
Conclusion
Have you visited Nafplio? Share your suggestions for artsy travelers in the Comments below.
Are you planning a trip to Naxos and you’re not sure what to do?
Spending two or three days on the beautiful Greek island of Naxos gives you a taste of this lovely island and definitely leaves you wanting more!
I visited Naxos after spending four days on uber-touristy Santorini, and it was a relaxing revelation. Naxos feels like a Greek island where Greek people actually live.
Plenty of visitors bask on the beaches and eat in the many harborside restaurants, but the place doesn’t feel inundated. Part of the appeal of Naxos is that cruise ships do not come here. Let’s hope that doesn’t change!
During the evening, stroll along the waterfront and through the labyrinthine lanes of the old town (called, fittingly, the labyrinth), mingle with the locals, and watch the children play in the largely car-free streets. Everyone seems to be in a good mood.
And why not? The air on a September evening is warm but not stifling, the sunset over the Aegean is magnificent, the food well prepared (and cheaper than Santorini), and the general atmosphere easy going.
In this 3-night and 2 full-day Naxos itinerary, I cover what you need to know about planning a short trip to Naxos: including where to stay, how to get around, and what to do.
I suggest you spent one day relaxing on one of the many gorgeous beaches in Naxos and one day touring the island, either on an organized tour or on your own in a rental car.
Map of Naxos: Locations Visited
Naxos is the largest island in the Cyclades and a popular destination. The map of Naxos below shows the locations I visited.
I stayed at Giorgios Beach (#1), a short walk from the main town of Chora (#2) and the ferry dock. Click a number to read more about each location.
Since Naxos is an island, you have only two choices for how you get there (unless you have your own boat or are a very strong swimmer).
While most people take the ferry from Athens or another island, you can also fly to Naxos.
If you’re island hopping, you’ll probably take the ferry. On my trip to the Greek islands, I flew from London to Santorini and then took the ferry from there to Naxos and then from Naxos to Athens.
Following is my experience of the ferry trip to Naxos.
My Experience: Leaving Santorini
We bid farewell to Aethrio Sunset Village and take a taxi to the ferry port. Unlike the old port that services the cruise ships, the ferry port is accessible by car and bus down a very steep series of switchbacks.
When our ferry arrives, we join the throngs of suitcase-toting visitors for the mad dash up the gangplank and into the cavernous hold.
The loading and unloading of a Greek ferry is the very definition of organized chaos.
The ferry workers blow whistles and gesture for us to form two orderly lines (fat chance). It doesn’t seem possible that all the people waiting with us on the dock will fit on the boat. But within a surprisingly short time, we’re all aboard.
Before we’ve even found the place to stash our luggage, the gangplank comes up and the voyage is underway.
It’s a windy day and the ferry is rocking, but we manage to locate the luggage area marked “Naxos” and leave our luggage before mounting the stairs to the passenger lounge.
We used Ferry Hopper to book our two ferry trips in the Greek Islands—Santorini to Naxos and Naxos to Athens. The online ticketing went smoothly, and the app was easy to use. When we boarded the ferry, we showed the tickets on the app to the attendant who scanned them and waved us through.
Traveling to Naxos
To get to Naxos from Santorini takes about 90 minutes. My daughter Julia knocks herself out with a piece of Gravol gum and I settle in to write while occasionally glancing out at the white-capped sea.
The ferry docks briefly at the island of Ios and then Naxos is next. As soon as we hear the island announced, we leap out of our seats and clatter down the stairs to the hold.
At Ios, I saw how little time is allowed for loading and unloading and I’m terrified of being left behind!
Arrival on Naxos – Stay at Kalergis Studios
We are among the first visitors off the ferry, where we find the taxi rank and are soon on our way to Kalergis Studios on Plaka Giorgios.
For our three night stay in Naxos, the small studio is perfect. It contains two beds, a tiny kitchen, a bathroom, and a balcony overlooking one of the most famous beaches in Naxos.
The reasonably-priced place (three nights cost the same as one night in Oia!) is located right on the beach and just a ten-minute stroll to Chora.
View from our suite in Kalergis Studios
Our first order of business is to enjoy a late lunch at Yannis, the beachside café adjacent to Kalergis Studios that also manages a fleet of sunbeds. The portions are enormous!
Here is the most massive hamburger Julia has ever eaten and my traditional Greek Dakos salad., a delectable combination of super fresh tomatoes, olives, onions, feta cheese and crunchy dried bread. It’s also so large that I enjoy the rest of it for lunch the next day.
Although groaningly full after our lunches, we have to jump into the Aegean Sea. Apart from our bobbing swim in the hot springs cove on the boat trip on Santorini, we’ve not yet swum from a proper Greek beach.
Agios Georgios Beach (#1 on the map above) is sandy, and the water is just the right temperature to be refreshing. It’s also very shallow, requiring a long wade out before the water’s deep enough to dive into.
We bob happily for a while before returning to our room and getting ready to check out the Naxos sunset.
Sunset on Naxos
Sunsets really are a thing in Greece! On Naxos, the most popular place from which to watch the sunset is the Portera (#2) near the old town.
Also known as the Temple of Apollo, the Portera is a huge marble gate and all that remains of the temple of Apollo that was built, but never finished, in 530 BC.
We stroll toward the Portera, but my knee is aching, so I opt to sit on a bench overlooking the boats bobbing in the harbor while Julia runs on ahead to catch the sunset from the Portera.
Here are two of her amazing shots.
The Naxos sunset just keeps on giving. Long after the sun sets, the sky continues to change in one of the most dramatic displays I’ve seen in a while.
After finally tearing our eyes from the sky, we settle on dinner at one of the many places lining the harbor in Chora, the main town on the island.
The Greek food is hearty and tasty, and the ambiance can’t be beat.
Day 1 on Naxos – Relax!
On our first of two full days in Naxos, we decide to enjoy a beach day—our only one of the entire 16-day visit to Greece.
If you have the time and you love beaches, stay longer in Naxos and explore some of its many gorgeous beaches. See the map at the end of this post with suggested options.
After breakfast, we walk only about ten feet from the café below our window to our sun loungers for the day. At a cost of 25 euros, the loungers are a bargain compared to what I’ve paid in France.
And with a breakfast like this to start the day, how can we go wrong?
We seriously do nothing for the entire day. The air is breezy and warm, the sun hot but not unbearable, the view of the sparkling blue Aegean sea restful, and the occasional swim restorative.
It’s the perfect way to relax!
And then before we know it, the sun is starting to set again and it’s time to think about an evening walk and dinner.
Schedule at least one down day during your trip. Even the most avid sightseer needs time to recharge and restore. And what better place to do it than on a balmy beach in Naxos!
Exploring Chora
Thoroughly sun-warmed and relaxed, we follow the sunset back to Chora and stroll up to the top of the town to see the view.
The town’s narrow lanes, colorful door frames and prowling cats charm at every turn. We are virtually alone as we wander around, occasionally checking out a souvenir store or snapping a picture of one of the cats.
Cycladic Village Architecture
We learn later when we go to Athens that the tight architecture of the villages in the Cyclades Islands owes a lot to pirates. Over the millennia, pirates (the so-called Sea People) have been a constant thorn in the side of peaceful occupants of islands such as Naxos.
To protect themselves, people built their villages with houses very close together and clustered around narrow, serpentine lanes that wind around and through the villages with seemingly no logic. If a pirate manages to get to such a village, they can be more easily repelled.
At least that’s what our tour guide in Athens tells us a few days later and who am I to contradict?
The result of all this pirate repelling are villages that to our modern eyes are irresistibly charming and achingly picturesque. Every turn brings into focus another angle for another photo.
Cobbled lanes and slippery steps lead up, up, up to the Venetian castle of Naxos between houses so close they can be touched with outstretched hands.
Cats in Chora
And everywhere there are cats—lounging across the tops of thick walls, tails swishing lazily in the heat, stalking around corners, skittering across the cobblestones. At one corner in Naxos’s old town of Chora, we count eleven cats in various attitudes of total relaxation.
Cats are a thing in Greece, we are discovering. They are everywhere! Most look sleek and well fed, although I think they are feral.
Their presence is a constant source of pleasure for photo-snapping tourists, us included.
Dinner in Chora
After our wandering and picture-snapping, we go in search of a well-reviewed restaurant in the labyrinth.
Google’s restaurant reviews have not failed us yet. With its 4.8 rating, Restaurant Doukato looks like a good bet—and it is.
After being seated under a huge tree in an airy courtyard, we order chicken souvlaki for two. While we wait, we watch in awe as the black-clad waiters literally run from table to table.
Julia at Restaurant Doukato
I’ve never seen servers work so hard! One young man actually sprints, while holding aloft plates of food. When our souvlaki comes, he plunks it down and rushes off, only to return seconds later to offer to help us de-skewer the chicken.
A lot of chicken souvlaki at Restaurant Doukato
The meal is plentiful and tasty. We take home what we can’t eat (the portions are HUGE in Greece) and enjoy it for dinner the next night after our tour of Naxos.
Day 2 on Naxos – Tour the Island
On our second of two full days on Naxos, we’ve booked an all-day tour that will take us inland to exlore some of the villages of Naxos.
If you don’t have a rental car, then I highly recommend taking a tour, preferably a small group one or even a private tour. But if your budget is limited or you can’t find a suitable tour, taking a big bus tour at least gives you a taste of this spectacular island.
We end up on a big bus tour, which is not our preference, but we couldn’t find a small group tour on the day we are in Naxos.
The plus is that the price is startlingly reasonable—just 30 Euros each for an eight-hour guided tour that takes us all over this big island. Here are a few tours to consider.
Starting on the Tour
As two of the last people to be picked up, we settle into our seats in the second to last row and prepare to enjoy ourselves. Unfortunately, my ability to hear the guide’s commentary (and I do love a good commentary) is marred by the incessant chattering of the two women behind me.
I don’t want to be that person by asking them to be quiet, but all my attempts at subtle body language cues such as glancing back, cupping my hand around my ear, leaning forward and so on fail to produce the desired quietude.
And since they are speaking French, I can’t even eavesdrop.
Other than putting up with their rudeness (and to add insult to injury, they are fellow Canadians!), the tour is an admittedly efficient way to see the highlights of Naxos with minimal effort.
What to See on Naxos
On our 8-hour bus tour, we explore several villages on the island along with other must-see sites. If you have your own wheels, you can see these sites over more than one day and take your time.
But I found that a bus tour, while “touristy” was worthwhile, and gave me a good overview of the island’s fascinating history dating back millenia. Here are the places we visited, with details about each following:
Demeter’s Temple
Damalas
Chalki
Apiranthos
Apollonas
Colossus of Dionysius
Demeter’s Temple
We leave the town of Chora and head up into the hills. Right away, we see that Naxos is very different from Santorini.
As the largest of the Cyclades Islands, Naxos’s ecosystem is very different from desert-like Santorini. Although dry, the landscape is much more verdant with plenty of greenery and high mountains framing views of the ever-blue Aegean.
There is a great deal of agriculture here, including olive oil production, which explains the delectable freshness of the food. We’re told that Naxos grows most of the food consumed on the island.
It’s no wonder the tomatoes taste like they’ve just been twisted from the vine because they probably have.
Our first stop is the temple of Demeter (#3) which we’re told dates from 530 BC. Over the centuries, the temple suffered attacks and repurposing, including the building of a small Christian basilica in its center.
As is the case throughout Greece, the marble and other materials from ancient temples were frequently used to build Christian churches. I learn that the impressive looking ruins were rebuilt in 1977.
Temple of Demeter in Naxos
The Temple of Demeter doesn’t take long to explore and includes a small museum that we pop into.
If you go, try timing your visit for first thing in the morning or later in the afternoon when the tour buses are all gone. You’ll have the evocative ruins all to yourself.
Pottery Workshop in Damalas
We stop in the village of Damalas (#4) to watch a pottery demonstration. The potter throws a pot with impressive speed and accuracy.
I’ve dabbled in pottery a bit and recognize expertise when I see it. His pot comes out perfectly.
Pottery demonstration in the village of Damalas on Naxos
The small store adjacent to the workshop sells an impressive array of plates, jugs, platters, and figurines. I purchase a bowl and resolve that it will be my one pottery purchase of the trip.
I have a soft spot for buying pottery while traveling, but I have only a carry-on this trip and must make hard choices.
Chalki
The tour progresses at a brisk rate with frequent stops, the next being the charming village of Chalki (#5) where we have forty minutes to wander the picturesque alleys and sample olive oil and citron liqueur.
I buy a can of olive oil and a small bottle of the liqueur because, well, why not?
The town also contains an ancient Byzantine church called Panagia Drosiani that dates from the 4th to 6th centuries AD. We tale a quick look inside; the frescoes are impressive.
Apiranthos
The village of Apiranthos (#6) is billed as the most famous village in Naxos because of its marble cobbled streets (slippery when wet), narrow lanes, and panoramic views.
It is definitely charming, and we enjoy a stroll around.
A strip of cafés cater to the tour bus people, but we do our best to escape and walk up into the village in the short time allocated.
Alleyway in the village of Apiranthos
Apollonas
Between Apiranthos and the seaside village of Apollonas (#7) lies some seriously twisty-wisty mountain roads. Our driver takes us around sharp curves and up steep slopes that would be challenging to negotiate in a small car, never mind a bus the size of a whale on wheels.
I’m very, very glad I decided not to rent a car on Naxos. If you really don’t like tours, then a car is your only option, but make sure you have nerves of steel!
The views are stunning in this remote area of the island. Our guide tells us about some of the tiny villages we lumber through. Historically, life was very harsh and populations are decreasing.
Finally, we reach the seaside and our final major stop of the day.
It’s almost 3 pm and well past time for lunch. The village of Apollonas clusters alongside a white sand beach. Several inviting cafés await the influx of the tour buses.
We find a table right at the edge of the water and order the best lunch of our entire trip (which is saying something).
View from our lunch spot in Apollonas
Tzatziki is one of our favorite Greek dips and we eat it several times, but nothing tops the flavor, texture, and garlic content of the tzatziki at the little café in Apollonas.
We devour it along with a massive Greek salad and an order of saganaki (Greek fried cheese).
Kourus Statue – AKA the Colossus of Dionysius
Our last short stop is to admire a prone, large, and unfinished marble statue that is over 10 meters in height, weighs 80 tonnes, and dates to the 8th century BC.
Because the statue wears a long cloak and has long hair and a beard, most researchers think it depicts Dionysius, but some disagree and favor Apollo. I don’t suppose they’ll ever know for sure.
Verdict on the Big Bus Tour
Taking the bus tour did at least allow us to see a lot of Naxos. If it’s your only option, then definitely take a big bus tour rather than miss out on seeing the stunning Naxos countryside.
But if possible, opt for a small group tour or a private tour. Yes, you’ll pay more, but you’ll also avoid long waits getting on and off the bus and chatty people who talk over the commentary.
You’ll also likely go on smaller roads that the big buses can’t access, and you won’t feel quite so much like a tourist!
Last Night in Chora
We arrive back in Chora (AKA Naxos town) around 5 pm and return to Kalergis Suites for one last swim in the Aegean before the sun sets.
For dinner, we eat leftovers from our souvlaki dinner the night before. It tastes even better the second night—and the price can’t be beat!
In the evening, we stroll the fifteen minutes back to Chora to poke through the many souvenir stores and enjoy the relaxed ambience, very different from bustling Santorini.
I will definitely return to Naxos for a longer stay.
Leaving Naxos
Bright and early, we bid farewell to Kalergis Suites and take a taxi back to the port. More or less on time, the ferry churns in.
Along with 500 of our new friends, we surge up the gangway and stash our luggage. Before we’re halfway up the stairs to the passenger lounge, the ferry is pulling away from the port and we’re off.
The Joys of Upgrading
We find and settle into two very tight seats with no view and no leg room in tourist class. The voyage takes almost four hours, and Julia decides to check on upgrading to business class.
Off she goes to inquire, returning ten minutes later with upgraded tickets (25 euros each). We mount the interior staircase to business class where we discover that the extra cost is well worth the increased comfort of much wider seats and a view of the passing sea.
I’m all for saving money, but more and more, I opt for comfort over budget whenever I can.
With more room, I’m able to work on my computer when I’m not enjoying the view.
Practical Information for Your Naxos Itinerary
First off, do I think 2 days on the island of Naxos is enough? No, I can’t say that I do, but if it’s all you have, you can still get a good feel for this lovely island.
I think a trip to Naxos–the biggest island in the Cyclades–belongs in any Greek island-hopping itinerary that includes the Cyclades.
To save time, you can fly to Naxos from Athens and then from there do some Greek island hopping, perhaps to nearby Paros which is much smaller and with fewer visitors.
Paros is so close that you can home base on Naxos and do a quick day trip to Paros.
Should Your Rent a Car on Naxos?
You can rent a car on Naxos, but the roads in the interior are very narrow and steep. Unless you’re staying on the island for at least a week and need a car to get from your accommodation to stores and restaurants, I wouldn’t bother.
You can see the island on a day tour like we did, and then stay near Chora so you can easily walk to where the action is.
Best Beaches in Naxos
If you don’t have a car, the best beach for you is the one closest to your accommodation. We stayed on Agios Georgios Beach (#1), and I can recommend it for its sandy beach and warm water. The water is also very shallow and so a good choice for travelers with families.
Here are some other options, all located on the west coast of Naxos as shown on the map:
Agios Prokopios Beach (#2) is considered one of the most beautiful beaches on Naxos with its long stretch of golden sand. You’ll find lots of amenities including sun beds to rent and tavernas to drink in.
Plaka Beach (#3) is known as a windsurfer’s dream and is backed by beautiful cedar trees that provide welcome shade on super hot days.
Alyko Beach (#4) is very picturesque with its sand dunes and rocky cliffs, and is a bit more secluded.
Mikri Vigla Beach (#5) boasts dramatic rock formations and is very secluded; a good choice if you’re looking for a unique landscape.
Kastraki Beach (#6) is known for its calm water which makes it a good choice for families. You’ll find several beachside tavernas with stunning views.
Pyragki Beach (#7) is another secluded cove with dramatic rock formations and good snorkeling.
Our trip to Greece included only two islands—Santorini and Naxos. I wish we’d had time to visit more, but as first-time visitors, we chose the best-for-us Greek island combo.
Santorini has the stupendous views, and Naxos has the laid-back atmosphere and rugged interior.
We stayed four nights on Santorini and three nights on Naxos, which worked well. Although I prefer Naxos for its relaxed Greek vibe, I’d still recommend giving Santorini a bit more time because there is a great deal to see.
Also, the longer you have to enjoy the views of the caldera on Santorini at many different times of day, from sunset to sunrise, the better.
But on my next trip to Greece, I’ll stay a full week on Naxos or another less-visited island and skip Santorini.
Have you visited Naxos? Share your comments and suggestions in the comments below.
The Roman Baths in Bath, England, is the city’s foremost must-see attraction.
If you only have time to visit one historic site in the city of Bath, make it the Roman Baths.
It’s small enough to enjoy in about an hour, includes an excellent audio guide, and is enlivened by numerous projections of Roman-clad people going about their bathing business.
I’ve visited the Roman baths three times over the past ten years and each time, I discover something new.
Roman Baths at a Glance
Enjoy views of Bath Abbey from the museum terrace
Discover the ancient history of the sacred spring
Explore fascinating displays and costumed recreations that bring ancient Aquae Sulis to life
Consider a guided tour to get the most out of your visit
The Roman Baths are located next to the Pump Room in the center of Bath. It’s a short walk from the train station.
When you arrive, you may find quite a crowd gathered and signs indicating which time slot is currently being accommodated.
If you didn’t get tickets in advance, ask the person marshaling the crowd if you can still get in. I did this on a recent visit and the attendant promptly stood aside and motioned for me to walk right in, bypassing the long line. I didn’t stop to question my good fortune.
That said, I wouldn’t count on getting in without buying your ticket in advance. You can purchase tickets online from the official website or choose a tour.
Audio Guide
The price includes an audio guide with two tracks in twelve languages. The regular track provides the usual historical context in short and interesting installments.
The children’s track includes first-person accounts by the many characters that wander across screens projected throughout the museum. I alternate between the adult and children’s tracks. Both are excellent.
Touring the Baths
The clearly signposted route starts on the terrace, which consists of a walkway surrounding the baths.
This structure and the statues of various Roman bigwigs are Victorian additions that were built atop the Roman ruins to house the museum when it opened in the late 19th century.
The terrace is a delightful space surrounded by warm Bath stone and with the façade of Bath Abbey looming in the background. Below are the deep green waters of the main pool. Bath has been a mecca for health-seekers for two millennia.
View of the main pool from the top walkwayView of Bath Abbey from the top walkway
Hot Springs History
While touring the museum, you’ll learn that Bath is the only place in the entire country that has hot springs—three of them. No wonder people have been coming here for millennia.
Before the Romans arrived, the local Dobunni tribe worshipped the goddess Sulis at the sacred spring. In those days, the heated natural spring was a bubbling, steaming pool surrounded by a thick swamp.
When the Romans arrived, they incorporated worship of Sulis into their own pantheon and so transformed her into Sulis Minerva and called the settlement Aquae Sulis.
The Romans were generally “equal opportunity” when it came to accommodating other religions, so long as the people practicing them rendered unto Caesar the necessary taxes.
In Roman Britain, the legionnaires who first conquered the area must have been very happy to have found a place where they could soak their weary bones in warm water in the midst of a Great Britain winter.
In the 17th and 18th centuries, Bath developed into one of the world’s most fashionable watering holes. Everyone who was anyone came here to take the waters. Jane Austen herself bathed here.
Museum Exhibits
The tour leads back indoors and descends through several rooms full of artfully displayed exhibits about the Romans.
Enlivening the experience are screens projecting a selection of Roman bathers who would have frequented the baths back in the day. It’s a clever way to bring history to life and makes you feel like you’re witnessing it firsthand.
You can listen to a blacksmith on the audio guide while watching a screen showing him hard at work making armor.
Projection of a Roman blacksmith
The Baths
The exhibits give way to a series of walkways leading across the archaeological remains of the various rooms in the Roman Baths.
The Romans took their health seriously. There are rooms for getting massaged and plucked (apparently, the Romans weren’t keen on body hair), rooms for bathing in various water temperatures, and even a gymnasium where Romans got good and sweaty in humid air that still smells of sulfur.
Projection of Roman woman preparing to bathe
The ruins themselves don’t photograph particularly well. Here’s one room showing the bricks that would have been under the floor to supply the heating.
The audio commentary provides details about the impressive heating and cooling mechanisms. The Romans certainly knew how to engineer.
Ruins of the heating system
Minerva Sulis
One of the most striking artifacts on display is the gilt bronze head of the goddess Sulis Minerva. It’s a rare and beautiful example of ancient craftsmanship.
Bust of the goddess Sulis Minerva
Outside next to the large pool sits a Roman-clad guide. She acknowledges me with a regal nod when I take her picture. I’m unsure if she’s meant to speak or if her job is to sit by the pool all day and have her picture taken.
A Roman watches the crowds go by
Bath Tours
Bath is unique in that it has two inscriptions as a UNESCO World Heritage site. In the 1980s, the town was inscribed for its Hot Springs, Roman archaeology, Georgian buildings and natural landscape setting.
And then just a few years ago in 2021, it was awarded a second inscription as one of the Great Spa Towns of Europe.
The best way to explore Bath is through a walking tour. GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides.
Tours and Tickets
If you’re a Bridgerton fan, you may find this tour fun:
Ruins can be challenging to enjoy because they are, well, ruins. The Roman Baths manages to bring the stony vestiges of a once great Roman hangout to life with its thoughtful use of projections and audio commentary.
As you exit the museum, you can enjoy a cupful of the medicinal waters to give you energy for more Bath sightseeing.
The Roman Baths are open from 9 am to 10 pm from July 20 to August 31, and from 9 am to 6 pm from September 1 to December 31. Buy your tickets online from the museum’s website.
Have you visited the Roman Baths? Share your comments and suggestions in the comments below.
I’ve visited Pompeii twice before my most recent trip, and both times, I never managed to visit the Naples National Archaeological Museum. I came close when visiting with my family back in the nineties. We took a taxi from our hotel to the museum on our way to Pompeii only to find it closed.
In those pre-Google days, I’d neglected to read the guide book.
So on my latest trip I was determined to finally see the museum because it houses the vast majority of the art excavated from ancient Pompeii and Herculaneum and is considered one of the best archeological museums in the world.
In this post, I share what I consider the top things to see in this incredible museum.
The National Archaeological Museum of Naples (MANN) is the best place to see the art of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Its top highlights include the Alexander Mosaic, the Farnese sculptures, the Secret Cabinet, vibrant Roman frescoes, fascinating everyday objects that bring the life of the people of Pompeii and Herculaneum to life, and exquisite mosaics from the House of the Faun and other elite villas. It’s a must-visit for anyone who wants to go beyond the ruins to see the towns the way they looked before Vesuvius exploded and buried them for centuries.
See the National Archaeological Museum of Naples First!
Now that I’ve toured the National Archaeological Museum, I can without hesitation recommend that you go there first and then tour the ruins of Pompeii and/or Herculaneum. Both cities were buried in the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 CE, with excavations starting at far back as the 16th century.
As you’ll discover, Pompeii and Herculaneum are pretty much all ruins (quel surprise!) with the vast majority of the finest frescoes, mosaics, and statues long ago removed to the National Archaeological Museum in Naples.
You’ll see and learn so much more about ancient Pompeii and Herculaneum at the museum than you will at the archeological sites.
Also, to be honest, wandering around Pompeii in the heat (I visited in late April and it was 30 degrees) with thousands of other visitors is not as comfortable an experience as strolling through the thoughtfully air-conditioned National Archaeological Museum of Naples.
Consider a guided tour of the museum to make sure you don’t miss any of the many highlights:
Overview of the National Archaeological Museum in Naples
In this post, I’ll share some of my favorite parts of the National Archaeological Museum in Naples (MANN) with the proviso that the museum is chock-a-block with amazing objects from antiquity.
I’ve rarely seen such a beautifully appointed museum where just about every item in it is worth a stop and a good long look.
You can easily visit the National Archaeological Museum in about two to three hours, depending on your energy level. You’ll also find a good cafe where you can take a break for refueling after touring a floor or two.
I did, and it made all the difference to my enjoyment of the museum. This is a big museum; pace yourself!
Exterior of the National Archaeological Museum of Naples
Getting Tickets
When I toured MANN in late April, the crowds were light (unlike the next day in Pompeii!) and I waited only a few minutes at the entrance to buy tickets.
In busier times of the year, you may want to skip the ticket line by buying your tickets online from the museum’s website or through resellers such as Get Your Guide.
Plan of Attack
The museum is organized according to type of art, so you’ll find rooms full of artifacts from Pompeii, including sculptures, mosaics, everyday objects, frescoes, and coins.
I saw most of what was on display in the sculpture, mosaic, everyday objects, and fresco areas. The quality of the work is awe-inspiring.
I suggest starting with the sculptures on the ground floor and then going to the top floor and working your way down. Doing so minimizes stair climbs (there’s an elevator to whisk you to the second floor) and conserves energy.
Ground Floor – Monumental Sculpture and the Farnese Collection
Begin your visit among the museum’s most imposing masterpieces. The ground floor houses the legendary Farnese sculptures, a collection of Roman-era copies of Greek originals that set the tone for the grandeur of MANN.
Here you’ll find colossal works like the Farnese Hercules and the Farnese Bull, displayed in airy halls that allow their dramatic scale to shine.
Sculptures
Wowza! They are stunning. I didn’t expect to see so many really large sculptures that looked like they were chiseled yesterday when in fact they are almost 2000 years old.
Here’s a selection of my favorites.
Hercules at Rest
Even big guys like Hercules can use some time off now and again. This massive sculpture of old Herc shows him leaning on his club. The sculpture is a Roman copy from the end of the 2nd/beginning of the 3rd Century CE of a Greek statue from the second half of the 4th century BCE.
The subject of Hercules at rest is a very popular one. It shows him exhausted and pensive after having undertaken yet another labor for his cousin Eurytheus.
While the top half of Hercules sags with fatigue, his legs and feet still look dynamic, as if he was ready to spring into action (yet again) at any moment. His exaggerated musculature and weary pose epitomize the heroic ideal in Roman art.
The sheer size of the statue took my breath away–and it’s just one of many dozens of sculptures in MANN.
Hercules is part of the Farnese Collection, which was one of the first collections of artistic items from Greco-Roman antiquity.
It was started by Cardinal Alessandro Farnese (he later became Pope Paul III) back in the 16th century when collecting antiquities started being all the rage.
Farnese Bull
The largest surviving ancient sculpture group, the Farnese Bull captures the myth of Dirce, dramatically carved with twisting bodies and swirling drapery. Its sheer scale and technical ambition make it a showpiece of the museum’s classical collection.
Naples National Archaeological Museum, CC BY 2.5 , via Wikimedia Commons
Dog Sculptures
Large sculptures dominate the sculpture collection, but they are by no means the only sculptures worth admiring at MANN.
Here are three incredibly charming sculptures of Roman pooches. They look like they could come to life at any minute and run toward you, tails wagging.
Athena
Athena is the Goddess of Wisdom, along with warfare and handicrafts. The next time you pick up a knitting project, call on Athena for some extra guidance!
This sculpture (bigger than can possibly be portrayed in a photo) really shows off Athena’s robes in all their pleated glory.
Bust of a Woman
I don’t know who this is but I love her hair!
She looks a bit careworn, perhaps from having to cope with all those corkscrew locks every day. I also loved the black stone, which is an interesting break from the predominantly cream-colored marble that was used to create most of the other sculptures in MANN.
It’s hard to believe this sculpture dates back two millennia. Like most of the sculptures in MANN, the bust is in near perfect shape.
Petite Figure
This small statuette of a child is one of several equally adorable pieces. You can understand how the artists who are descended from the ones who sculpted these pieces came up with cupids!
The pieces look incredibly lifelike.
Second Floor – Daily Life & Frescoes
The second floor brings you close to the vibrant visual culture of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Everyday objects and frescoes reveal how ancient Romans decorated their homes, dined, groomed, worshipped, and lived. Highlights include the extensive rooms of wall paintings, along with jewelry, silverwork, and domestic tools that reconstruct life before 79 CE.
Everyday Objects
After checking out the sculptures, take the elevator directly to the second floor to tour the collection of everyday objects salvaged from Pompeii and Herculaneum and
For me, a highlight of the MANN collection is the vast array of household and everyday objects that were salvaged from Pompeii during excavations that began in the late 18th century. Many of the objects were remarkably preserved, including pots, glassware, small statues of household gods, combs, jewelry, and cooking utensils.
The ancient Roman versions of pretty much everything humans need to cook, clean, and live in houses is on display.
It turns out that Romans aren’t all that different from us when it comes to the stuff they had in their houses. Take away our electronics and indoor plumbing, and we’re left with similar objects to those used by the average Pompeii resident: wine bottles, cooking pots, jewelry, cups, combs, chairs, and the like.
Here are some particularly fine examples of the household objects salvaged from the ruins of both Herculaneum and Pompeii.
Terracotta Frog
Is this little guy not the sweetest thing? It’s a statuette of a frog made from lead-glazed terracotta. I’m not sure what he was used for, but he sure caught my eye.
And he was just one of many, many such objects artfully displayed in room after well-lit room at MANN.
Deep Wine Cup
Look at the handiwork on this lead-glazed terracotta wine cup! It’s decorated with vegetable motifs and doves. Imagine drinking your wine out of that.
Cosmetic Jar
Ladies in Pompeii wore cosmetics just like women do today. But with plastic rather lacking in those days, they stored their cosmetics in glass containers such as the one shown below.
Again, it looks brand new! The jar is described as free-blown glass from the 1st century CE.
Blue Glass Pitcher
And last but not least, I have to include this perfect example of a free-blown glass pitcher. Look at the color! There were also many, many more examples of pitchers blown in darker tones as well as clear glass.
I still can’t get over how they survived the blast, but I guess the ash buried things so thoroughly that they were preserved during the 1800 odd years they lay undisturbed. Remarkable!
Portraits
MANN includes several portraits of Romans in its collection. One of the most famous is the portrait of the baker Therentius Neo and his wife. Don’t they look contemporary?
Walking along the streets of Naples after visiting MANN brought us face to face with several of their descendants!
Here is another very famous portrait, this one of the poet Sappho, or at least that’s how it’s billed. The truth is that we don’t know if the portrait is actually of Sappho. It’s rather a “typological” representation of a young woman holding a stylus and a wax tablet, two things the real poet Sappho would likely have had.
Anyway, it’s nice to think the portrait really is of Sappho which is probably why the image is everywhere in the gift shop, including on the fridge magnet I bought.
Could This be My Next Character?
And finally, I came across this lovely mosaic portrait of a young woman. According to the description, the mosaic dates to the Julian-Claudian era (27 BCE to 68 CE) in Pompeii. She’s likely pretty high born (check out the necklace).
I love how she looks directly out at the viewer. If I do decide to write a novel set in ancient Rome (and I am toying with some ideas), then this mosaic could be the image of my main character!
Pompeii Frescoes Galleries
Frescoes and paintings galore! You won’t believe how many paintings and frescoes you’ll find at MANN. This is because the Romans lavishly painted the inside walls of their villas and added painted embellishments just about anywhere there was a blank wall.
That so many of these paintings survived the eruption of Vesuvius is truly astonishing.
The Romans were unbelievably good painters. They’d mastered perspective and realism 1500 years before the Renaissance. So many of the paintings in MANN look like they could have been painted in the past few hundred years, particularly the gorgeous still lifes.
Here’s my best picks at MANN.
Isis & Snakes
Snakes are quite a recurring theme in the paintings in MANN. I’m not sure why that is; perhaps sea serpents were bigger and more threatening back in the day.
For whatever reason, you’ll see snakes depicted in mosaics and frescoes, and included as details on pots, urns, and other objects.
This fresco, which had once graced the wall of a villa in Pompeii, shows Isis hauling the boat with the body of Osiris along the Nile accompanied by snakes lurking below the surface. Cheerful.
Still Lifes
I couldn’t believe the quality and quantity of still life paintings at MANN. The realism truly is incredible. I have a soft spot for still lifes. See my post about the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam where some of my fave still lifes are exhibited.
I never knew that the ancient Romans were so adept at creating them. Here are two still lifes–one of dead birds and mushrooms, and the other of a bunny with onions.
First Floor – Mosaics, Masterpieces, and the Secret Cabinet
The first floor is devoted to some of the museum’s most beautiful and unforgettable works. The celebrated Alexander Mosaic and the dazzling Pompeii mosaic galleries showcase intricate craftsmanship and elite taste. Nearby, the Secret Cabinet presents a curated collection of Roman erotic art that was once hidden from public viewing and is now one of the museum’s most fascinating highlights.
Mosaics
The people of Pompeii and Herculaneum sure liked their mosaics. The floors of many houses, particularly those belonging to rich people (of which there were quite a few in Pompeii), were decorated with mosaics.
The mosaics in MANN give just a taste of just how opulent the homes must have been. The intricacy of the designs really is breathtaking.
Zootopia Mosaic
Here is a series of three mosaics, displayed in horizontal format, but shown here in three parts to better check out the imagery. Each of these mosaics includes a bevy of wild animals, from hippos to snakes to ducks to crocodiles. What a tour de force!
Dog Mosaic
The Romans definitely liked dogs! Here’s another depiction of a dog, this time in mosaic form. This image is very popular; it’s on various products sold in the gift shop, including bags, fridge magnets, and mouse pads.
I did buy a fridge magnet at the MANN gift shop, but of Sappho (see above) not the dog!
Sea Creatures
Can you imagine the imagination that concocted this delectable cornucopia of sea creatures? Wow! I particularly like the giant octopus in the middle. The mosaic also reminds me of the kinds of displays you’d see in 19th century natural history museums.
Secret Cabinet (Gabinetto Segreto)
Don’t miss the Secret Cabinet if you’re inclined to view the museum’s extensive collection of erotic and sexually-themed objects and paintings salvaged from Pompeii and Herculaneum.
The room was finally re-opened in 2000 with a display that organizes objects according to their, ah, function and material.
It’s a bit of an eye-opener, but definitely interesting and proving there is nothing new under the sun!
Alexander Mosaic
This spectacular floor mosaic—made of over a million tiny tesserae—shows Alexander the Great charging at King Darius. Its energy, shading, and drama reveal the sophistication of Hellenistic art and the extraordinary taste of Pompeii’s elite.
Practical Information for Visiting MANN
Location
The museum is located at Piazza Museo 19 in Naples, which is just north of the historic center and is easily reached by Metro Line 1 (Museo stop) or Line 2 (Cavour stop). Take a taxi if you can, if only to experience driving in Naples traffic without having to drive yourself. It’s wild!
Opening Hours
Open daily except Tuesdays, when the museum is closed. Hours are generally 9:00–19:30, with last entry about an hour before closing. Check the official site before you go, as special exhibitions may affect schedules.
Tickets
You can buy tickets at the entrance, but advance booking is recommended on weekends, holidays, and high season (April–October). Combination tickets that include temporary exhibitions may also be available.
Arrive right at opening for the quietest experience. The crowds tend to gather mid-morning in the Farnese galleries and again in the fresco and mosaic rooms.
Bag Storage & Security
Check large bags and backpacks at the free cloakroom. Standard security screening is required at the entrance.
Photography
Photography is generally allowed without flash. Some temporary exhibitions may have restrictions.
Accessibility
Elevators connect all major floors, and most galleries are fully accessible. If you have mobility concerns, ask staff for the recommended accessible route, as the museum’s layout can feel labyrinthine.
Facilities
There is a small café and bookshop on the ground floor. Restrooms are available on multiple levels, although not always near the main galleries.
Naples Archeological Museum FAQs
Here are some of the questions I’ve been asked about visiting the Naples Archeological Museum.
What are the must-see highlights at the Naples Archaeological Museum?
The top highlights include the Alexander Mosaic, Farnese Hercules, Farnese Bull, Pompeii frescoes, mosaics from elite villas, the Secret Cabinet, and the poignant everyday objects used by the people of Pompeii and Herculaneum.
Is the best Pompeii art in Naples or at Pompeii itself?
Most of the finest art—including mosaics, frescoes, and luxury objects—was moved to Naples for protection. The ruins show the context; Naples shows the masterpieces. On a hot day, the museum is a far superior experience to the often over-crowded and sun-blasted ruins.
How long do I need to see the Naples Archaeological Museum?
Plan 1 hour for essentials and 2–3 hours for a full highlights visit. The museum is large and best enjoyed at a relaxed pace. Take breaks in the museum cafe.
Do I need to book tickets in advance?
Booking ahead is recommended during high season and weekends, although day-of tickets are often available.
Is the Secret Cabinet open to all visitors?
Yes. The formerly restricted cabinet is now open to all adults. It’s small but packed with an eye-popping selection of Roman erotic art and objects from Pompeii and Herculaneum.
Can I see everything from the Villa of the Mysteries here?
No, the frescoes remain in Pompeii, but related stylistic examples and other major frescoes from elite villas are displayed at MANN. While the Villa of the Mysteries is interesting to visit, you’ll get a better fresco experience and see a lot more variety at MANN.
Tour Options in the Naples Area
Here are some Get Your Guide and Tiqets.com tickets and tours you may wish to consider while in the Naples area. I frequently purchase tours and tickets from Get Your Guide and Tiqets.com and have yet to be disappointed. The tours they include on their website are, in my experience, reasonably priced and interesting.
If you enjoy walking tours, then you can’t go wrong with GuruWalks. Check out their tours in Naples.
Where to Stay in Naples
Here are the two places I’ve stayed in Naples:
The Hotel Paradiso is located on Posillipo Hill and has a commanding view across the Bay of Naples to Mount Vesuvius. Relax on the terrace and enjoy! The hotel is comfortable and reasonably priced.
The Palazzorefici is a stylish apartment deep in the heart of Naples on a tiny side street. It’s close to a main street where you can easily get taxis to where you want to go in Naples.
Conclusion
In this post, I’ve just scratched the surface of the collection at the National Archaeological Museum of Naples. I recommend you make time in your itinerary to visit, preferably as I said earlier, before you visit Pompeii.
In fact, if I had to choose between visiting Pompeii and visiting the museum, I’d choose the museum. Yes, I know that the ruins are way more famous, and they are pretty impressive. However, they truly are mobbed with visitors.
And they are BIG! If you can, visit very early in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid the heat. Alternatively, visit at a time of year when temperatures are less ferocious. There is virtually no shade anywhere.
Have you visited the National Archaeological Museum in Naples? What were some of your favorite objects? Share in the comments below.
Here are some more posts to give you a taste of Italy or check Visiting Italy to see the full list of posts about Italy.
