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How to Spend Three Fabulous Days in Venice

Destinations, Arts & Culture, Italy Artsy Traveler 2 Comments

Last updated on October 6th, 2025 at 07:12 pm

A three-day visit to Venice gives you a flavorful taste of this float-on-water, impossibly beautiful city.

I love Venice and go there as often as I can. In three days, you won’t see everything, but you’ll see a fair bit and, most importantly, you’ll whet your appetite (forgive the pun!) to return.

My suggestions for three days in Venice include plenty of time for slowing down and enjoying yourself. You can’t see everything, so don’t even try. Instead, focus on my suggested artsy highlights and still have plenty of energy left over for wandering.

A promotional graphic for a travel guide titled "3 Days in Venice," featuring San Giorgio Maggiore’s silhouette at night.

Best of Venice at a Glance

Getting lost, especially at night
Touring the Peggy Guggenheim Foundation
Enjoying an evening concert (Vivaldi’s the home town boy here)
Taking a gondola ride
Staying at the San Teodoro Palace
Taking an Art & Culture Tour of the Dosodoro

Venice is probably the most “wanderable” city I’ve ever visited.

Definitely avoid popping into Venice for a day, or worse, an afternoon. It’s better not to visit at all than to end up being jostled around Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) with thousands of other sweaty, rushed tourists.

You’ll come away with a negative view of Venice, and that would be a terrible shame!

I’ve met people who visited Venice for an afternoon from a cruise ship and couldn’t say anything good about the place, calling it hot, crowded, rude, and over-hyped. That makes me want to weep!

Venice is so much more than over-priced coffees on the St. Mark’s Square and gondola traffic jams on the Grand Canal.

It’s wandering dark calles late at night when the only sounds are your footsteps on the cobblestones and the swish of water against stone.
It’s early morning strolls to take photos of the peculiar Venetian light glinting off bobbing gondolas.
It’s a bar hop to sample bàcari and cicchetti and maybe even meet a few Venetians.
It’s quiet canals gleaming in the late afternoon sun with nary another human soul in site.
And it’s full of wonderful, heart-breakingly lovely art.

Why I Love Venice

Of all the cities I’ve been to, Venice is my favorite. The first time I visited, I couldn’t stop laughing for the first fifteen minutes of our ride on the vaporetto (water bus) from the train station along the Grand Canal to our hotel.

I just couldn’t believe that such a place existed on Earth, that Venice was real.

But Venice is real, and Venice is special.

Quiet side canals glimmer in the luminous Adriatic light, buildings with exotic facades slowly sink into the mud, world-class museums and art galleries abound, peaceful piazzas and bustling piazzas beckon, gondolas glide and water taxis and water busses churn up and down the Grand Canal, and the music of Vivaldi wafts into the night air.

A tranquil Venice canal with charming bridges and cafes, offering a glimpse into the romantic side of the city. — A quiet side canal in Venice

When to Visit Venice

In recent years, my favorite city was become horribly overcrowded. Massive cruise ships dock within sight of the Grand Canal and the cafés on the Piazza San Marco take rip-offs to a whole new level.

That said, go to Venice. Just be strategic about how and when you visit.

Floods in winter are often a serious problem, and summers can be hot and crowded.

I’ve stayed in Venice in both spring and autumn and recommend both seasons. You’ll still encounter crowds, but the weather will be bearable. Just bring lots of mosquito repellent!

A Three-Day Venice Itinerary

Here’s how I suggest you spend your time as an Artsy Traveler with two full days and three nights in Venice.

Day 1 in Venice

Arrival in Venice

Arrive around lunchtime and make your way to your hotel. If you’re driving, park in the Tronchetto Car Park. The rates are fairly reasonable and the car park has a station on the Venice People Mover, an automated tramway that takes you quickly into Venice.

The futuristic glass architecture of the Murano Glass Museum, a must-visit spot to explore Venice's renowned glass artistry. — People Mover station near Tronchetto Car Park in Venice

I wouldn’t waste time parking on the mainland. You’ll save a bit of money, but you’ll also waste a fair bit of time getting into Venice itself. Save your energy for sightseeing! Here’s a comprehensive overview of parking options in Venice.

If you’re taking the train, you’ll arrive at the train station and then, depending on where your hotel is located, hop on a vaporetto–the Venice version of a bus.

Getting Around Venice

The two main ways to get around Venice is by riding the vaporetto–a quintessentially Venetian experience–and walking. You could also take water taxis, but they are super expensive.

I’ve only taken one once from my place near the Grand Canal back to the Tronchetto Car Park at the end of a week in Venice to attend one of Gregg’s art exhibitions. We had a large box of his paintings in addition to our luggage and did not want to wrangle everything on to and off the people mover.

A classic wooden speedboat glides through Venice's waterways, highlighting the city's unique transportation. — A sleek and stylish water taxi may be worth the splurge if you have lots of luggage

Sometimes, saving your legs and your sanity is worth the extra cost of a water taxi. But most of the time, you’ll get everywhere you need to go in Venice either by walking or by taking the vaporetto. Also, even when it’s packed to the gunnels, a ride on the vaporetto is fun!

Buy Tickets in Advance for the Vaporetto

A single ride on a vaporetto costs €9.5! That’s waterway robbery. Fortunately, you can buy a City Pass from the Venezia Unica website CityPass website that includes public transit and entrance to various Venice sites or you can just buy a transit pass for one, two, three, or seven days.

A Vaporetto water taxi cruises along the Grand Canal, passing historic Venetian buildings under a sunny blue sky. — A *vaporetto* on the Grand Canal in Venice

I suggest buying the three-day pass and using it on Days 1, 2, and 3. On the morning of Day 4 when you’re making your way back to your car, either walk, depending on where you’re staying, or splash out for a single ticket.

I bought a seven-day travel card for €60. Since my apartment was close to the Grand Canal, I used the vaporetto several times a day to get around and to travel to Burano and Murano. Buy the Venice Travel Card at the ticket-vending machines located at the largest vaporetto stops or online before you arrive (most convenient).

And depending where you’re staying in Venice, you may not even need to ride the vaporetto. On my latest trip, I stayed at the San Teodoro Palace right next to the Rialto Bridge, which is about as central a location as you can get. I was able to walk everywhere I wanted to go.

Areas to Stay in Venice

I suggest you stay in the Dosoduro area across the Grand Canal from Piazza San Marco or the area between the Rialto Bridge and the train station. I’ll talk more about hotels later. For now, drop your bags if your room isn’t ready and set out for your first stop.

Activities on Day 1 in Venice

Here’s what you’ll have time to do on your first afternoon and evening in Venice:

Visit the Peggy Guggenheim Museum
Walk to and cross the Rialto Bridge
Visit Piazza San Marco as the sun is setting and the crowds have thinned
Take a traghetto back across the Grand Canal
Dine at a small trattoria near your hotel

Here are the details!

Visit the Peggy Guggenheim Museum

I seriously love this museum. Located right on the Grand Canal and accessed from the Dosoduro district, the P eggy Guggenheim Museum is a must-see for modern art lovers. Peggy Guggenheim was quite the gal in her day. She knew just about every famous modern artist in Europe in the 1930s and 1940s and amassed an amazing collection of their art.

You’ll find works by Picasso, Kandinsky, Miró, Braque, Giacometti, Klee, Magritte, Dali, Pollock, de Chirico, Brancusi, Braque, Duchamp, and Mondrian.

The museum is located in Peggy’s renovated Venetian palazzo. Wander the cool halls to revel in the fabulous collection and then go outside to enjoy a stunning panoramic view of the Grand Canal.

On your first day in Venice, this really is the place to come to get your first Venetian hit.

A visitor smiles beside a modern art sculpture outside the Peggy Guggenheim Museum in Venice, a hub for art enthusiasts. — In front of the Peggy Guggenheim Museum in Venice

You can buy advance tickets (recommended in peak season) here.

Cross the Rialto Bridge

The Rialto Bridge is one of Venice’s most iconic sites and as such it is often heaving with tourists. Avoid crossing it during the day, but definitely cross it at least once or twice during your visit to Venice.

Since it’s one of the very few bridges across the Grand Canal, you can’t miss it!

Venice's famous Rialto Bridge over the turquoise Grand Canal, surrounded by vibrant buildings and gondolas, teeming with visitors. — The Rialto Bridge over the Grand Canal is often very crowded

Visit Piazza San Marco

Take your time and wait until the sun is setting and the crowds have dissipated, and then make your way to Piazza San Marco. Called the drawing room of Europe by Napoleon, the Piazza San Marco lives up to the hype, even when seething with tourists.

But it’s better when it’s not too crowded.

Another option is to visit it very early in the morning (see my suggestions for Day 3) or late at night after dinner to really see and appreciate it.

In the evening, you can dance to the music coming from the posh cafés that line both sides of the piazza. Scare away a few pigeons and enjoy.

I have occasionally splurged on a cup of coffee at one of the cafés (the prices are truly eye-watering), but the people-watching is worth the price and hey, you’re in Venice.

Piazza San Marco in Venice, illuminated at night with its iconic bell tower and grand architecture reflected on the wet square after rain. — Piazza San Marco on a rainy evening

Take a Traghetto Back Across the Grand Canal

You have to ride a traghetto at least once while you’re in Venice. These fairly large and plain gondolas ferry people across the Grand Canal from various points.

One option is to catch it from the Santa Sofia boat pier not far from Piazza San Marco and go across to the Rialto Fish Market. The ride is fast, cheap, and great fun.

It’s not exactly a replacement for a “real” gondola ride, but it’s a great budget option, and at least you can say you rode in a gondola.

On the other hand, I do suggest you splurge on a gondola ride (see Day 3 suggestions).

Dine at a Small Trattoria

Check restaurant reviews and find a small restaurant near where you are staying. Avoid the more touristy restaurants at or near Piazza San Marco.

My most memorable meal in Venice was at La Zucca, a small osteria on a side canal on the Dorsoduro side of the Grand Canal. Get reservations in advance (advisable everywhere in Venice) and enjoy!

Day 2 in Venice

On your first of two full days in Venice, use your morning energy for sightseeing (fewer crowds) and then spend the afternoon on Murano. Here’s what I suggest:

Visit the Accademia Gallery
Visit Murano for a glass-blowing demonstration and to shop for glass
Go to a concert of baroque music in the evening

Here are the details!

Activities on Day 2 in Venice

Visit the Accademia Gallery

You’ll find plenty of Renaissance and Baroque biggies in the Accademia in Venice (Gallerie Accademia). Works by such masters as Veronese, Tiepolo, Bellini, and Titian grace the walls of this very walkable and enjoyable museum. It’s not too big and in my experience isn’t usually that crowded.

That said, get tickets in advance to avoid line-ups, just in case. Check the gallery’s website for details. Or consider a private art & culture tour in the Dosodoru. Here’s an option from GetYourGuide:

Take the Vaporetto to Murano

Using your vaporetto pass, hop on the vaporetto for a trip across the lagoon to the lovely island of Murano. It’s quite a long voyage and the lagoon can be choppy.

If you can, snag a seat outside to guard against seasickness.

Murano is the glass-blowing island and allegedly the best place to buy the distinctive Venetian blown glass. There are certainly plenty of shops there and the prices do seem to be a bit more reasonable than the prices at the tourist joints in Venice itself.

Enjoy a Glass-blowing Demonstration

Upon arrival, head for a glass-blowing demonstration. It’s put on for the tourists, and our hand-scarred guy looked kind of bored as he dutifully blew, rotated, heated, and smashed a variety of glass ornaments.

But I enjoyed the demonstration and recommend it to see how glass blowing is done.

A skilled artisan shapes molten Murano glass into a unique creation over a flame, showcasing the intricate craft of Venetian glassmaking. — Glass blowing is big business on the Venetian island of Murano

Browse the Shops

Make your way down some fairly nondescript streets to the main shopping street bisected with a small, straight canal arched over with several small bridges. On both sides of the canal, shop after shop after shop marched a good three blocks in both directions—each one crammed to the ceiling with glass.

A lively canal in Venice, Italy, lined with colorful buildings, small boats, and bustling tourists enjoying the vibrant scenery. Perfect for exploring Venetian culture. — Colorful main drag on the island of Murano

Dozens of storefronts twinkle with heaps of glittering, glaring, glinting glass—swoopy vases and finely spun figures, paperweights, pendants, chandeliers, glasses, earrings, pitchers, plates, bowls, beads.

Every store advertised that their glass is authentic, made on Murano, not in China like 80% of all the other glass for sale in Venice.

Enjoy Lunch Along the Canal in Murano

After shopping, enjoy a leisurely lunch at one of the canalside restaurants in Murano and then hop back on the vaporetto to return to Venice.

After your trip to Murano, either relax in or near your hotel for the afternoon or just keep wandering. Venice is endlessly fascinating.

I love strolling alongside the canals, never knowing what’s around the next corner. Sometimes, I find a bustling street, at other times, nothing is moving except a cat stretching on a boat moored in the canal.

Gregg loved our visit to Murano and created several pieces inspired by glass blowing. Here’s my favorite (also featured in our collaboration Pastel & Pen: Travels in Europe):

A modern abstract painting featuring a dynamic swirl of rainbow colors, bold black lines, and soft pastel accents. — “Murano” inspired by Murano blown glass by Gregg Simpson

Attend a Concert of Italian Baroque Music

A highlight of a trip to Venice is attending a concert of Italian baroque music. Vivaldi is the hometown boy here and you shouldn’t have much trouble finding a concert featuring his Four Seasons. by Italian baroque

One concert we attended was held in a baroque church with a ceiling painted by Tiepolo.

Look online for concert schedules and purchase tickets in advance if you can. Afterwards, float out into the warm Venetian evening (depending on the time of year!) and find another small trattoria for dinner.

I attended this concert, and it was marvelous.

Get Lost in Venice After Dark

And after dinner, keep wandering. Getting lost after dark in Venice is one of Europe’s best travel experiences.

In fact, I put getting lost in Venice at the top of my list of must-do activities because first, getting lost is unavoidable (even with GPS on your phone), and second, you’ll never be lost for long.

Some of my fondest Venice memories are of strolling alongside dark canals in the evening, not knowing if I was going in the right direction and not caring.

A close-up of a yellow directional sign with bold black text and an arrow pointing toward St. Mark's Square in Venice. — Sign pointing to San Marco in Venice

Venice is an island; you can’t fall off. With the world asleep and the crowds long gone, Venice at night is one of the most magical places on Earth.

Walk until you come to one of the ubiquitous signs pointing to San Marco or Rialto or Ferrovia (train station) and get your bearings. You could also ask someone for directions, but chances are they’re tourists and also lost.

Day 3 in Venice

Get going bright and early to take in two of the most iconic sites of Venice, again before the crowds start to gather. Here’s an overview of Day 3:

Tour the Duomo and the Doge’s Palace
Wander and get lost some more
Take a gondola ride after dark

Activities on Day 3 in Venice

Tour the Duomo and Doge’s Palace

Both are crowded, and both are must-sees. Get your tickets ahead of time and go early or late. Several times I’ve bypassed long lines of hot and tired tourists waiting to get into the Doge’s Palace.

Breeze past them with your pre-purchased ticket.

The sumptuous public rooms of the Doge’s Palace will show you just how powerful Venice was back in the day.

A more sobering attraction are the dungeons reached by crossing the Bridge of Sighs, so called because prisoners who crossed it got their last glimpse of the world before being shut away and usually executed. Cheerful stuff.

The iconic Bridge of Sighs illuminated in golden light against a dusky blue Venetian canal, creating a romantic and serene atmosphere. — Bridge of Sighs at night in Venice, Italy.

Leave Piazza San Marco before it gets too crowded and spend the afternoon wandering the back streets. Shop for souvenirs if you haven’t already bought your quota in Murano, relax at a sidewalk cafe in a small piazza, watch the people go by, and enjoy life.

What’s the hurry? You’re in Venice!

Take a Gondola Ride at Dusk

Yes, it’s expensive and kinda touristy but it’s also super romantic and relaxing. You’ll be taken into canals you may not have seen from the street, and if you’re lucky, you’ll hear a few gondoliers break into song.

Occasionally, I’ve seen gondola traffic jams. To avoid them (not at all romantic!), go later.

A row of traditional blue-topped gondolas moored in a Venetian lagoon during a colorful sunset, with San Giorgio Maggiore in the background. — Gondolas bobbing on the Grand Canal in Venice

At the time of writing, a daytime gondola ride costs 80 Euros for 40 minutes. After dark, the price rises to 100 euros, but in my opinion, going at night is the best.

Six people fit in a gondola so you could share, depending on who you are with and whether romance is on the cards!

Here is Gregg and me on one of two gondola rides we’ve taken during our trips to Venice. We loved every minute of it!

A couple smiling while seated in a luxurious gondola, gliding through the picturesque canals of Venice surrounded by historic architecture.

Tours of Venice

Here’s a selection of artsy sightseeing options in Venice with links to fast-track tickets.

Walking Tours of Venice with GuruWalks

How about a walking tour of Venice? GuruWalks has some good options:

Staying in Venice

Venice deserves at least three nights and preferably more so you can settle in and enjoy being a temporary Venetian. If time allows, rent an apartment and stay for a week.

My most cherished memories of Venice are the ten days I spent there a few years back while Gregg had an exhibition of his paintings in a gallery overlooking the Grand Canal.

A framed exhibition poster reading "Venezia 2015 Gregg Simpson" with colorful abstract artwork and event details for an art show on the Grand Canal. — Poster for exhibition of Gregg Simpson’s work in Venice

A wall displaying vibrant abstract paintings with bold, colorful shapes and patterns, showcased in an art gallery setting. — Paintings featured in the exhibition by Gregg Simpson

I spent hours just wandering the city, staying well clear of the heaving masses in Piazza San Marco and taking my time getting to know this most extraordinary city.

For the apartment stay, I chose a place just off the Grand Canal about a five-minute walk from the train station. The neighborhood was quiet and close to a piazza that every evening spilled over with local Venetians enjoying the air and watching their children play.

If you have the time, rent an apartment in Venice and stay for a week. Live like a local, not that you’ll see many locals these days. Venetians are moving out of the city at an alarming rate. But at least you’ll experience shopping in tiny local grocery stores and get to know your way around a neighborhood.

As mentioned earlier, consider staying in the Dorsoduro district across the Grand Canal from the Piazza San Marco. I recommend you avoid the area immediately adjacent to Piazza San Marco. Hotels there can be expensive, and the tiny streets in the area are wall-to-wall tourists during the day.

Accommodation Suggestions

Here are suggestions I’ve stayed in Venice.

San Teodoro Palace: This one-bedroom apartment is huge by Venice standards and located steps from the Rialto Bridge in a very lively and touristy area.

Ca’ Mirò: Settle into this two-floor apartment in a quiet area of Venice not far from the train station and become a temporary Venetian. It’s gorgeous.

Hotel Canaletto: We stayed there a few years ago and loved it. The rooms were small, but that’s par for the course in Venice. The location, just 200 meters from Rialto Bridge, was fantastic as was its situation on a charming side canal.

Hotel Messner is a more modest option, located in the Dorsoduro neighborhood close to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. It was quiet, and the area was peaceful and uncrowded, particularly at night.

For other options in Venice, check the map below. Resist the temptation to stay on the mainland. The savings will be minimal once you take into account train fares and your time.

Stay in the middle of Venice and enjoy this unique city.

Booking.com

Conclusion

Include Venice in your trip to Italy if at all possible. With a bit of planning and some strategic dodging, you can easily avoid the crowds and find plenty of peaceful areas to enjoy.

Venice is a city for dreaming. Give her time and she’ll reward you.

Looking to travel elsewhere in Italy? Here are some more posts to check out:

Amazing Artsy Sightseeing Choices in Italy for the Independent Traveler

Destinations, Arts & Culture, Italy Artsy Traveler 1 Comment

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 09:29 pm

Where to begin when it comes to artsy sightseeing in Italy? Italy feels at times like one giant art gallery! There’s so much to see that even after numerous trips, I know I have many more wonders in store for me on future trips.

In this post I’ve described some of my favorites in eight historical periods: Greek, Etruscan, Roman, Byzantine, Medieval, Renaissance, Baroque, and 20th Century.

Read about my artsy sightseeing highlights and then follow links to more detailed recommendations. Seriously, you could very easily spend years in Italy and not run out of art to admire.

Pinterest graphic with the text Artsy Sightseeing in Italy. Above the text is a picture of the skyline of Siena in Tuscany. Below the text is a picture of the Rialto Bridge in Venice.

Map of Italy: Suggested Artsy Sightseeing Choices

The map below shows the locations of the artsy sightseeing options mentioned in this post. Click a number to read more about the location.

Map from Wanderlog, a trip planner app on iOS and Android

Greek Ruins

Three of the best preserved Greek temples in the world are located in Italy!

Ever since I first saw pictures of the magnificent Doric temples at Paestum (#1) in southern Italy, I’ve wanted to visit them–and finally I have!

The ruins are well worth the effort to get to them. Pictures give some idea of the beauty of the temples, but they cannot give a sense of the sheer size and splendor of the columns.

The temples are thought to be dedicated to the city’s namesake Poseidon (known to the Romans as Neptune), Hera and Ceres. The oldest temple dedicated to Hera dates from 550 BC.

Here are some options for touring Paestum with GetYourGuide.

Staying In Paestum

If you have a car, stay at the Savoy Beach Hotel. It’s on the Mediterranean and includes a beach club with loungers and people to bring you drinks! The hotel is luxurious, but the price is surprisingly reasonable.

Etruscan Art

I’ve grown very fond of Etruscan art. It’s different from Roman art in that it’s less monumental and more personal.

The Etruscans pre-date the Romans and were based around Florence and throughout Tuscany as far south as Tarquinia, about 50 kilometers north of Rome. The Etruscans were a fascinating society in which women held much more power than they did in Roman society.

I mention Volterra in the section on Tuscany. The Etruscan Guarnacci Museum is the place to see Etruscan artifacts.

Here are two other great options for enjoying Etruscan art while artsy sightseeing in Italy.

Tarquinia

All around Tarquinia are the ruins of Etruscan tombs, many with fabulous paintings. Visit the Necropolis of Tarquinia (#2) to see some of the most famous paintings including the Tomb of the Leopards which dates from 473 BC. The colors are remarkably well preserved.

Visit the museum in Tarquinia to see more Etruscan art. Fascinating.

National Etruscan Museum in Rome

We loved this place! The Museo Nazionale Etrusco (#3), housed in the lovely Villa Giulia, was virtually empty when we were there, which was a treat after visiting other museums in Rome. We wandered happily through room after room of Etruscan treasures including the famous Sarcophagus of the Spouses from the late 6th century BC.

Although we didn’t find the museum crowded, play it safe – skip the line and buy your tickets online.

Sculpture of a married couple in the Etruscan Museum in Rome; the musuem is high on my list of artsy sightseeing options in Italy — One of the most famous sculptures in the Museo Nationale Etrusco – skip the line to buy tickets

I also enjoyed the urns and household goods, even little statues of animals. The Etruscan style is very modern-looking.

Ancient Roman

In addition to visiting the Roman sites in Rome and Pompeii, you don’t need to go far to find Roman ruins in Italy. Here are a few artsy sightseeing suggestions related to Roman art and architecture.

Hadrian’s Villa

Hadrian’s Villa (#4) is a massive archeological complex near Tivoli outside Rome. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the site is a must-see for fans of ancient Rome.

Be prepared to walk–the complex is vast, containing over 30 buildings and covering 250 acres, making it larger than the city of Pompeii. Stroll past the remains of fountains, pools, and gardens surrounding what must have been one heck of a pleasure palace back in the day.

View of columns at Hadrian's villa in Italy--a highlight of artsy sightseeing in Italy — Hadrian’s Villa in Italy

Hadrian constructed the villa as a retreat from the tough work of emperor-ing during the second and third decades of the 2nd century AD. We first discovered the villa on our family trip to Italy in 1994. Since then, much more of the site has been excavated with more ruins yet to be uncovered.

TIP: A good strategy is to visit Hadrian’s Villa (also called Villa Adriana) and the Renaissance Villa d’Este on a day tour. Here’s an option.

Ostia Antica

Rome’s original seaport is 30 minutes from Rome by train. Ostia Antica (#5) is like a mini Pompeii but without all the tourists. If you’re not planning to go south, take an afternoon from your Roman sightseeing to check out the atmospheric ruins at Ostia Antica.

You’ll find a well-preserved Roman theatre, the Baths of Neptune, remains of the military camp, temples to ancient deities, the forum and even Ostia Synagogue, the oldest known synagogue site in Europe.

Baths of Caracalla

This complex of ancient public baths close to Rome is worth a visit. Several towering walls remain along with impressive black and white mosaics. Descend below ground to view the well-preserved tunnels where slaves worked to keep the baths operating and the water hot.

Buy tickets for the Baths of Caracalla (#6).

Archeological Museum of Naples

This museum is a relevation–and one of the best museums showcasing Roman-era art that I’ve every visited. The Archeological Museum of Naples contains much of the art–paintings, frescoes, objects, mosaics–recovered from Pompeii.

If you’re pressed for time and trying to decide whether to visit the Pompeii ruins or the archeological museum, my vote is the archeological museum. The ruins may be far more popular (and very crowded), but to get a comprehensive view of what life was like in Pompeii, the museum has it all.

Read my detailed post about the Archeological Museum of Naples (#7): How to See the Art of Pompeii at the National Archaeological Museum in Naples.

Staying in Rome

Here are two great options for staying in Rome:

Sant-Angelo Apartments: located deep in the Jewish Ghetto, you’re within steps of most of the major sites in ancient Rome.
Viam 6B located near the Spanish Steps and the Piazza del Popolo, this very stylish apartment is staffed, with some units including a lovely outdoor terrace.

Early Christian and Byzantine Art

Ravenna (#8) is the place in Italy to see the best Byzantine and early Christian mosaics. I wasn’t prepared for how incredibly new the mosaics looked. Despite dating from 400 to 600 AD, they looked like they were created yesterday.

I was taken with how the figures were depicted. Large eyes stare right at you, flowing robes glint with gold, the figures look like they could step from their perches on the walls high above you and join you for a glass of wine.

Be warned that many of the fabulous mosaics are located high up which means after a day of touring the UNESCO sites, you come away with a stiff neck.

It’s worth it! Artsy sightseeing doesn’t get much better than visiting the mosaics in Ravenna.

Gold mosaic showing a religious scene in Ravenna, Italy; Ravenna's mosaics are a must-do for the artsy sightseer — Sumptuous mosaic in Ravenna, Italy

Here are some options for touring Ravenna with Get Your Guide.

Staying in Ravenna

If you’re driving, avoid the narrow Ravenna streets and stay a little ways outside the city. The Grand Hotel Mattei is a modern and comfy choice.

Medieval Era

If you’re an artsy traveler with a love of the medieval, you just need to look out the window in Italy. Okay, that’s not quite true, but if you stay in any hill town, you’ll be surrounded by buildings that date from the 1300s, if not earlier.

These are some of my favorite medieval artworks I seek out when sightseeing in Italy.

Frescoes by Ambrogio Lorenzetti and Simone Martini in the Palazzo Pubblico (#9) in Siena
The Maestà altarpiece by Duccio di Buoninsegna in the museum at the Siena Cathedral (#10)
“The Annunciation” by Simone Martini in the Uffizi (#11) in Florence
Frescoes by Giotto in the Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi (#12)
Frescoes by Giotto at the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua (#13)
Frescoes by Memmo di Filippuccio in the Camera del Podestà in the Palazzo Comunale in San Gimignano (#14) showing domestic scenes including a couple taking a bath and getting into bed

For more details about seeing medieval art in Italy, read Ten Must-See Masterpieces in Tuscany.

San Gimignano 1300

And before I leave medieval art, I must put in a plug for San Gimignano 1300 (#15). This scale model of what San Gimignano looked like in 1300 is located near the Palazzo Comunale and the Torre Grosso in the center of San Gimignano. The display is free and well worth seeing to give you an idea of how the city of towers looked with 72 towers instead of its current 17.

And while you’re there, pick up a copy of The Towers of Tuscany.

At San Gimignano 1300 with a copy of The Towers of Tuscany and the museum director — At San Gimignano 1300 with a copy of *The Towers of Tuscany* and the museum director

Here are some options for touring San Gimignano and the area with Get Your Guide.

Staying in San Gimignano

My favorite place (perfect if you have a car) is the Hotel Pescille on the outskirts of San Gimignano and overlooking the towers. The Cappuccina Country Resort also overlooking the city is another good choice.

Renaissance Era

The Renaissance was born in Florence with an explosion of amazing art by artists such as Michelangelo, Botticelli, and Leonardo da Vinci. You’ll see a fair whack of the best stuff at the Uffizi.

TIP: If you go to the Uffizi, you must buy your tickets ahead of time, preferably a few days or weeks before you arrive, especially if traveling in peak season. Here’s a link to buy your tickets to the Uffizi and skip the line.

Here are some of my favorite Renaissance pieces (it’s just a partial list–I could go on and on!):

Primavera and Birth of Venus by Sandro Botticelli in the Uffizi in Florence
David statue by Michelangelo at the Academia (#16) in Florence
David statue by Donatello at the Bargello (#17) museum in Florence
Expulsion from the Garden of Eden by Masaccio at the Brancacci chapel (#18) in Florence
The Medici chapels in Florence
Sistine Chapel frescoes by Michelangelo at the Vatican (#19) in Rome
Paintings by Sofonisba Anguissola, one of the few female painters from the period, in Siena and at the Uffizi in Florence.

For more artsy sightseeing in Florence, here are suggested tours and skip-the-line ticket options.

Staying in Florence

I highly recommend the Serristori Palace Residence. It’s right on the Arno River and slightly off the beaten track.

Baroque Era

Of all the art periods, the Baroque (roughly the 17th century) is my least favorite. I find the style too florid. However, the Baroque style is everywhere in Italy, from churches to museums. You can’t escape it.

Big names in Baroque art include Caravaggio, Tiepolo, Titian, Bernini, and Artemisia Gentileschi. Although Baroque art isn’t my cup of tea, I do love Artemisia’s work.

You can see her masterpiece, Judith Slaying Holofernes, completed in 1610, in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.

Modern Art in Italy

Italy has produced several noted modern artists including Giacometti, Modigliani, and Futurists such as Severini, Marinetti, and Balla. Following are three places to see wonderful modern art in Italy (and again, there are many more).

Peggy Guggenheim Museum

Located right smack on the Grand Canal in the Dorsoduro district of magical Venice between Santa Maria della Salute and the Gallerie dell’Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim Museum (#20) just makes me smile. I can’t visit it often enough!

The museum houses Peggy Guggenheim’s personal collection of 20th- century art including masterpieces of cubism, surrealism and abstract expressionism. Artists in the permanent collection include Picasso, Kandinsky, Miró, Braque, Giacometti, Klee, Magritte, Dali, Pollock, de Chirico, Brancusi, Braque, Duchamp, and Mondrian. It is an embarrassment of 20th-century riches.

If you’re in Venice, take a break from the Renaissance and cross the canal to visit the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. Wander the cool halls of her renovated palazzo to view the paintings and sculptures and then descend the steps to the edge of the canal and watch the boats go by.

I include the Peggy Guggenheim museum in my post about the Top Ten Modern Art Museums in Europe. Buy advance tickets (recommended in peak season) here.

National Museum of Modern Art in Rome

Also included in Top Ten Modern Art Museums in Europe is Rome’s National Museum of Modern Art (Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna (#21). The museum is conveniently located on the edge of the Villa Borghese so you can see it before or after you visit the Galleria Borghese

Read my description in Ten Great Ways to Enjoy Bella Roma.

The museum features an excellent collection of 20^th-century Italian painters including Giorgio de Chirico, Amedeo Modigliani, Antonio Canova, Giacomo Balla, and Giorgio Morandi, along with works by Rodin, Degas, van Gogh, Monet, Duchamp, Man Ray, and Pollock.

Unlike the Vatican and the other Renaissance and Ancient Roman attractions of Rome, the museum is sparsely attended and, therefore, extremely pleasant.

Tarot Garden: Sculptures by Niki de Saint Phalle

Located near the coast in the province of Grosseto in Tuscany, the Tarot Garden (Il Giardino dei Tarocchi – #21) is a collection of sculptures created by the French artist Niki de Saint Phalle.

If you’re traveling through Italy by car, carve out time to visit this wonderful place. For a great, although long, day trip from Rome, catch the train from Rome Termini to Orbetello Stazione (about 90 minutes) and from there take a taxi or a bus.

For a detailed description of how to get from Rome to Il Giardino dei Tarocchi, check out this post on The Spotted Cloth website.

Pictures of Il Giardino dei Tarocchi don’t do the sculptures justice. If you love quirky, whimsical modern art, you have to go and see the sculptures for yourself. You can walk around them, touch them, even go inside some of them.

Carol Cram in Il Giardino dei Tarocchi, a highlight of any artsy sightseeing trip to Italy. — Sitting on a sculpture at the Il Giardino dei Tarocchi

Il Giardino dei Tarocchi is far enough off the beaten path to be uncrowded and totally delightful.

The garden is open every afternoon from 2:30 pm to 7:30 pm from April 1 to October 15. In November, December, January and March, the garden is open on the first Saturday of the month from 9 am to 1 pm. If the Saturday falls on a public holiday, the park opens the following Saturday.

Sculpture of lovers in the Il Giardino dei Tarocchi

Quirky foundation in the Il Giardino dei Tarocchi

Check the website for more information and directions.

Exploring the Area

Here are some GetYourGuide tours in Italy.

Conclusion

Have you visited any of the places described in this post? If so, let other artsy travelers know what you think.

Here are some more posts on Italy to help you plan your next trip–or just to indulge in some armchair travel.

Favorite Regions in Italy for the Artsy Traveler

Italy, Arts & Culture Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 09:24 pm

My favorite regions in Italy range from Milan and the Dolomites in the north to Naples in the south. Unless you have several months to spare, you can’t really “do” all of Italy in one trip.

You’ll spend far too much time traveling and far too little time enjoying. Pick one or two regions and spent a week or two in each.

As Rick Steves says, “travel like you plan to return.”

Pinterst graphic with the text Favorite Regions in Itlay for the Artsy Traveler over two pictures. The top picture is of Milan Cathedral and the bottom picture is of the Grand Canal in Venice.

Map of Favorite Regions in Italy

The map below shows approximate locations of the main regions in Italy that I recommend you explore. I’ve visited all of them except for Sicily (coming soon!).

Map of Italy showing major tourist areas including Rome, Tuscany, and Venice

I’m going to start in the north and move south because we often drive to Italy, so that’s the direction we enter the country from.

Here are the five regions of Italy I suggest you explore:

Northern Italy: Turin, Lake Como, Milan, Dolomites
Venice and Ravenna
Tuscany and Umbria
Rome
Compania: Naples, Pompeii, Amalfi Coast

In this post, I give a brief overview of these areas and provide links to more in-depth posts.

Northern Italy

You could spend at least a week traveling through the regions of northern Italy.

Milan Cathedral at sunset — Milan Cathedral

From east to west, I recommend Turin, Lake Como, Milan, and the Dolomites. Spend at least a week in the north (not counting Venice which deserves at least three days on its own). You won’t run out of things to do!

Highlights of Northern Italy

Here are some of my favorite artsy highlights (a by no means an exhaustive list) in northern Italy:

Turin: The Egyptian Museum – Museo Egizio is first-rate. It houses one of the oldest collections of Ancient Egyptian artifacts in the world. Even if you’re only moderately interested in ancient Egypt, put it on your list.
Milan: The Duomo, Da Vinci’s Last Supper, and La Scala just for starters. There’s lots to see in Milan and it has a very different vibe (calmer in my opinion) than Rome.
Italian Lake District: Spend several days exploring small towns such as Sirmione on Lake Garda, the various lakes; gorgeous views, great food, lots of history.
The Dolomites: Drive as far up as you can and then take a chairlift or gondola even higher. The alpine culture is very different from the rest of Italy.
Bolzano: The South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology

For more details about these and other artsy sightseeing in northern Italy, check out Recommended Places to Travel in Northern Italy.

Venice

Don’t stint on the time you allocate to visiting Venice. The city is worth at least three days (preferably longer). You could choose to spend a week in the area–three or four nights in Venice, a night in the Veneto to visit Vicenza and Padua, and then head south to spend two nights in glorious Ravenna (more on Ravenna in a minute).

Rialto Bridge — Rialto bridge in stunning Venice

You don’t need a car in Venice and you can reach the other towns in the area by train.

Highlights of Venice

Peggy Guggenheim Museum – one of my very favorite small modern art museums in Europe (read more in 12 Modern Art Museums in Europe.
Piazza San Marco late at night when the crowds have thinned
Accademia Gallery – great selection of Renaissance and Baroque artists in a lovely, old building
Island of Murano to watch glass-blowing and buy glass souvenirs
Duomo and Doge’s Palace: must-see attractions, but go early or late and get reservations to avoid crowds
Enjoying a Vivaldi concert and getting lost in the dark on the way back to your hotel

For more details about these and other sightseeing options and to plan your trip to Venice, read Venice in Three Days for the Artsy Traveler.

Ravenna

Ravenna is a delightful small city south of Venice, most famous for the mosaics in the eight Christian monuments on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

While many of these sites, particularly the most famous mosaics in the Church of San Vitale, attract the tour busses, the rest of Ravenna is wonderfully non-touristy. Relax in the main square and watch the world go by. Ravenna has a subtle charm that made me want to write a novel set there just so I could go and stay for a good long while.

Piazza del Popolo in the evening, Ravenna, Emilia-Romagna, Italy

While we were in Ravenna, we watched a bride and groom emerge from a church and get into a red Ferrari, stopped into an art opening and drank white wine with the two Italian artists who were exhibiting their paintings, and enjoyed one of the best meals we’ve ever had in Italy at Ristorante Alexander. Check out the website and make a reservation! The food was to die for and the prices very reasonable.

TIP: When dining in Italy, make use of review apps and websites to find good restaurants. Every time we’ve taken the time to search out well-rated restaurants and to make reservations, we’ve been amply rewarded by fabulous meals.

Highlights of Ravenna: Touring the UNESCO World Heritage Sites

The mosaics in the early Christian monuments are the big draw in Ravenna, as noted earlier.

TIP: Buy your combination ticket for the six UNESCO sites in central Ravenna at any of these locations: the Basilica San Vitale, Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo, Neonian Baptistery, and the Archbishop’s Chapel.

The sixth site–the Arian Baptistery–is free and worth a visit to view the well-preserved domed mosaic, dating from the early 6th century AD, that shows Christ being baptized by John the Baptist.

At just €9.50 for entrance to all these sites, the Ravenna Mosaics combo ticket has to be one of Europe’s best artsy bargains. In addition to the six sites in central Ravenna, don’t miss the remaining two UNESCO sites. The mausoleum of Theodoric is a short walk from the town center, and the Church of Sant’Apollinare in Classe is an 8-kilometer drive towards the Adriatic coast.

Mosaic in Ravenna featuring the Empress Theodora

Staying in Ravenna

We were driving when we visited Ravenna, and so, as usual, we stayed in a hotel on the outskirts. We then took taxis into the city and from there walked to seven of the eight UNESCO sites in the center of Ravenna. On our last morning in Ravenna, we drove to the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare in Classe.

For my hotel recommendations in Ravenna, read Where to Stay in Italy: My Best Picks.

Tuscany and Umbria

Toscana! The very name evokes warmth and good living and beauty while at the same time associated with a deliciously turbulent history.

All those towers and walls and fortifications in towns such as San Gimignano and Siena and Lucca were not built back in the Middle Ages because life was easy. The architecture of Tuscan hill towns screams strife.

Fortress of Montalcino in Tuscany — The Fortress of Montalcino, a hill town in Tuscany

At the same time, the museums and churches of Tuscany burst at the seams with art–much of it created between 1300 and 1600, from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance.

We’ve been visiting Tuscany for years and plan to return. We’ve only recently “discovered” Umbria and were taken with its less touristy, more authentic atmosphere. While I love Tuscany, it can get overrun with visitors, particularly in Florence.

TIP: I recommend allocating at least a week to exploring Tuscany and another week for Umbria. Spend a few days in Florence to see the highlights and then if you have a car, find a house or an agriturismo property to rent for several days or a week in or near one of the medieval towns in Tuscany. Take day trips to other towns, bearing in mind that driving in Tuscany can be slow going on the twisty, narrow roads.

In a typical week, reserve a few days for just staying put and enjoying bella Toscana.

If you don’t have a car, you can still stay in the country, but choose a place that provides some assistance with transportation. You can join local tours such as wine tours (highly recommended!). Some properties offer cooking classes and painting classes.

After your week in Tuscany, spend a week in Umbria. The areas around Perugia or Assisi are good choices.

You won’t run out of things to see. I guarantee it!

For plenty of recommendations and suggestions, read Exploring Tuscany, Umbria and La Dolce Vita and Exploring San Gimignano in Tuscany. Also check out Art Masterpieces in Tuscany Who Don’t Want to Miss.

Rome

The Eternal City takes hold of your psyche with the weight of its 2,000-plus-year history and the central role it has played in the development of western culture.

Rome will not be denied.

I’ve visited Rome several times since my first trip there with my parents in 1974. During our most recent trip, Gregg and I spent ten days enjoying the city during Gregg’s exhibition of his paintings at a gallery near the Vatican. We lived like locals in an apartment in the same area and set aside time every day to explore new areas of Rome.

Read my Rome recommendations and a suggested itinerary for a three-day visit in The Best of Rome in Three Days.

Here are additional suggestions for what to see in Rome, including tours.

Naples and the Compania

Naples is kind of crazy–or at least it was when I visited a few years ago. We keep meaning to get down there again to see how or if it’s changed. I rather hoped it hasn’t.

I have a vivid memory of being driven in a taxi through downtown Naples and noticing how the driver barely slowed down at stop signs caked with dirt. Apparently, obeying them was optional. The driver pulled up in front of the National Archeological Museum in Naples, reputed to be one of the best museums in Italy for Roman antiquities. He then turned around and announced chiuso. Closed.

Oh. Those were the days before the Internet took the guesswork out of travel planning. Our only day in Naples was also the only day of the week when the museum was always closed.

That mistake wouldn’t happen nowadays which is a good thing although sometimes I miss the serendipity of the “olden” days when plans could so easily be derailed.

View of the Bay of Naples, the city of Naples, and Vesuvius in the distance

Read my recommendations and a suggested itinerary for a Week in the Campania.

Conclusion

I have a lot of posts on Italy for you to explore. Here again are some of the ones I’ve already mentioned along with a few more.

Why do I Love Italy?

Destinations, Arts & Culture, Italy Artsy Traveler Leave a Comment

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 05:55 pm

Let me count the ways!

First, the landscape is varied and stunning. From the rolling hills of Tuscany to the rugged cliffs of the Amalfi coast and the dreamy canals of Venice, Italy has so much to offer travelers. We are constantly discovering new regions to explore. Our latest favorite is Umbria after spending two weeks there in 2018 during an exhibition of Gregg’s paintings in the charming town of Galdo Tardino.

Pinterest graphic with the text Why I Love Italy over an Italian flag.

When I’m not admiring the landscape of Italy, I’m immersed in its history. Between the Etruscans and the Romans, Italy is brimming with ancient sites. Every town and village traces its roots to at least Roman times and all have a central medieval core. The Middle Ages is my preferred historical period, and Italy brings both the medieval and the Renaissance periods to life every day, sometimes literally.

I don’t think I’ve ever visited Italy and not seen people dressed in medieval garb at one of the many festivals and demonstrations of medieval life.

Food is another big draw in Italy. Tuck into steaming plates of pasta swimming in amazing sauces, eat your plate-sized paper-thin pizza with a knife and fork like the locals do, enjoy exquisitely prepared main courses, and finish off with desserts to die for. Italy is a gastronomic paradise.

And finally, there’s the art. From the Etruscans to the moderns, art is everywhere in Italy. Some of the most beautiful artworks in the western world were created in Italy and are still there to be admired, which is excellent news for the Artsy Traveler.

For more about what to see in Italy art-wise, check out these posts:

Siena Cathedral in Siena in Top Cathedrals in Europe – My Best Picks
The Peggy Guggenheim Collection in Venice and the National Gallery of Modern Art in Rome in Top Ten Modern Art Museums in Europe
The incredible variety of art in Tuscany in Tuscany Art

Also, take a look at posts for individual regions:

Here is one of my favorite artworks in Itlay, the fresco featuring the Empress Theodora in Ravenna.

Stunning Byzantine art in Ravenna of Empress Theodora and her serving maids — Stunning Byzantine art in Ravenna

Novels Set in Italy Perfect for the Artsy Traveler

Destinations, Arts & Culture, Artsy Novels, Italy, Novels Artsy Traveler 1 Comment

Last updated on October 6th, 2025 at 07:17 pm

A promotional image combining several book covers, framed with a red background and text highlighting "12 Compelling Novels Set in Italy," complemented by the Italian flag at the bottom.

The Night Portrait by Laura Morelli

A thrilling dual-time historical novel set in 1492 and World War II about the creation of one of da Vinci’s most famous paintings.

Blood Water Paint by Joy McCullough

Artemisia Gentileschi was one of the most talented painters of the Baroque era and one of the most famous female painters of all time. Her story is riveting.

A bold and artistic cover with rich, textured brushstrokes blending shades of blue, gold, and red, evoking the themes of art and emotion.

The Art of Traveling Strangers by Zoe Disigny

One woman’s journey of self-discovery and personal empowerment inspired by the great art masterpieces of Milan, Venice, Ravenna, Florence, Siena, Rome, and Paris.

A vibrant and colorful cover resembling a vintage travel poster, featuring illustrations of Italian landmarks and a stylish woman in a hat and sunglasses.

The Towers of Tuscany by Carol M. Cram

Set in 14th-century San Gimignano and Siena, the novel follows the journey of a woman painter who risks everything to do what she loves.

The cover showcases a striking image of a medieval Tuscan town with its prominent towers, overlaid by a woman's contemplative face in soft, muted tones.

Vivaldi’s Virgins by Barbara Quick

A fascinating glimpse inside the source of Vivaldi’s musical legacy, combined with the captivating story of an exceptional young woman’s coming of age in a deliciously reminiscent place and time.

A serene cover depicting a young woman in period attire holding a flute, set against a backdrop of Venice with its famous waterways and historical architecture.

Oil and Ma rble by Stephanie Storey

Stephanie Storey brings early 16th-century Florence alive, entering with extraordinary empathy into the minds and souls of two Renaissance masters–Michelangelo and da Vinci to create a stunning art history thriller.

Featuring a warm, textured background with ornate architectural details of Renaissance Italy, this cover sets an artistic tone with the title prominently displayed in white serif font.

The Wedding Shroud by Elisabeth Storrs

The first in the richly-imagined Tales of Ancient Rome trilogy set in the time of the Etruscans.

The cover depicts a woman in a dramatic red dress, her back turned to the viewer as she faces a dark background, suggesting intrigue and romance.

Lady in Ermine by Donna DiGiuseppe

An historical biographical novel that tells the fascinating story of Renaissance artist Sofonisba Anguissola.

The cover shows a Renaissance-style portrait of a young woman with a subtle, reserved smile, wearing a black dress with a white collar, set against a dark backdrop.

The Most Beautiful Woman in Florence by Alyssa Palombo

A lush and sensual interpretation of Medici Florence, artist Sandro Botticelli, and the muse that inspired them all.

A book cover featuring a woman with long, flowing auburn hair gazing downward, set against a pink and orange background of Florence's skyline with its iconic Duomo.

Juliet by Anne Fortier

A young American woman discovers that her family’s origins reach all the way back to literature’s greatest star-crossed lovers.

A book cover featuring a dramatic red rose in close-up with a historical Italian cityscape in the background. The title, "Juliet," is elegantly displayed at the top, evoking themes of romance and mystery.

The Serpent of Venice by Christopher Moore

A gleeful mashup of Shakespeare’s The Merchant of Venice and Othello: Greed, revenge, deception, lust, and a giant (but lovable) sea monster combine to create another hilarious and bawdy tale from modern comic genius, Christopher Moore.

A vibrant blue book cover showcasing a whimsical gondola scene with a masked character standing against a moonlit background. The title, "The Serpent of Venice," is written in bold, stylized font.

Midnight at the Tuscany Hotel by James Markert

A story of memories lost and found that explores the mysteries of the mind, the truth behind lore, and the miracle of inspiration.

A colorful book cover featuring a mosaic-style design with the title "Midnight at the Tuscany Hotel" in bold red and yellow letters. A small clock is incorporated within the title, set against a background reminiscent of Italian tilework.

Have you read a novel set in Italy, particularly an arts-inspired one? Do you have a favorite guidebook? Share your recommendations with other Artsy Travelers in the Comments below.

Here are some more posts to enjoy as you plan your adventures in Italy:

A Hidden Gem: The Church of Santa Maria del Popolo in Rome

Destinations, Italy Artsy Traveler 2 Comments

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 09:33 pm

By Guest Poster Andie Easton, author of the Clued In Travel Books –

The walnut tree is the reason the Church of Santa Maria del Popolo was built.

Every Roman citizen knew about the tree and the large number of black crows–an unnatural number–that clung to its branches every day. And it was common knowledge that the tree had everything to do with the Emperor Nero.

Pinterest graphic with the text "Hidden Gem: Santa Maria del Popolo in Rome" over pictures of the interior and exterior of the church.

They were convinced that the shiny, black, rustling tree caused bad luck. Mishaps on their various journeys only confirmed this. They became so fearful of the evil that inhabited the area that they finally demanded the Church fathers do something about it.

In the Renaissance, people wondered why the crows always flocked to that particular tree. It was unnerving, especially to the merchants and officials who used the Flaminia roadway which led north out of Rome. They had to pass right by the tree because the city’s walled gate was next to it. They were convinced that the shiny, black, rustling tree caused bad luck. Mishaps on their various journeys only confirmed this. They became so fearful of the evil that inhabited the area that they finally demanded the Church fathers do something about it.

Origins of Santa Maria del Popolo

There are many reasons why the churches in Rome were built and many reasons for their chosen locations. The church of Santa Maria del Popolo is located on the site of the walnut tree that grew over the very spot where the despised Nero’s body had been unceremoniously buried some 1500 years earlier. Nero obviously now haunted the place; people had seen him there. Only a church built on that spot would calm the populace. And it needed to be made important. If the Pope recognized the church, it would become a Basilica.

The order eventually came down from Pope Paschal II. The situation had become a social scandal, and this was his official solution. Important artists must be commissioned to decorate its side chapels and ceiling. The artistic works created for it would need to spring from such important themes that even God would notice it.

For the project, the Church recruited renowned artists Caravaggio, Raphael, and Bernini, who all enjoyed fame during their lifetimes. (Well, Caravaggio was definitely known, but not necessarily for his art.) If you’re unfamiliar with these gentlemen artists of the 16^th century, I must tell you that they are very famous in the art world. Legendary, even.

What’s Special about Santa Maria del Popolo

In situ is Latin for “in place” and is the term given for paintings, mosaics, frescoes, and sculptures that are still in the exact spot for which they were commissioned, for where they were designed to be. It is always special when one views something in situ, especially a major work.

And that is why I love Santa Maria del Popolo. It lays claim to two Caravaggio paintings, sculptures by Bernini, and a mosaic ceiling designed by Raphael. These creations have remained undisturbed in their precise positions. They could have easily been moved to some world-class museum or other, to bolster their daily visitation numbers and be celebrated at members-only cocktail events that the press would cover with uneducated glee. But something even more amazing happened: the works stayed where they were and as a result are almost unknown.

Location of Santa Maria del Popolo on the Piazza del Popolo

Located a bit out of the way at the north end of Piazza del Popolo, Santa Maria del Popolo sits quietly, without banners or signs. One would never know that it displays mind-boggling, priceless art. The masterpieces are not featured in any special way. You must actually go looking for them.

Church of Santa Maria del Popolo, Pufui PcPifpef, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

In the Chigi Chapel, you’ll find products of the genius of both Raphael and Bernini. Raphael obviously based his mosaic ceiling on the most important theme he could think of, The Creation of the World. It is so incredible that even as you are staring at it, your eyes tell you that it’s a painting, not a mosaic.

Statues by Bernini

All the amazing statues in this chapel are by Bernini. If you’re not familiar with Bernini, you’ll want to check out more of his beautiful statues, mostly notably those in the Borghese Gallery in the lovely Borghese Gardens in Rome.

Peter1936F, CC BY-SA 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

In the Cherasi chapel, you’ll find the two astounding canvas paintings by Caravaggio positioned directly opposite one another—the sensual Conversion on the Way to Damascus and the gut-wrenching Crucifixion of Saint Peter.

*Conversion on the Way to Damascus*, Caravaggio, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

The theme of Peter (as in the apostle Peter of Vatican fame) being crucified upside down in Rome as the Bible describes is not a theme that many artists favor. Perhaps that’s because it is simply too horrific. Caravaggio was not afraid of much, it appears, and clearly threw caution to the wind.

*Crucifixion of Saint Peter*, Caravaggio, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Visiting Santa Maria del Popolo

You’ll be surprised at the lack of visitors inside the Basilica; you may well be the only one. The reason is simply that most people don’t know about the place or what makes it special, even after being featured in Dan Brown’s Angels and Demons.

The Church of Santa Maria del Popolo is located at 12 Piazza del Popolo, next to the north stone gate and is free to enter. It’s open daily with sporadic hours; check their website for the days of your visit: rome.net/santa-maria-del-popolo. Avoid visiting on a Sunday during Holy Mass because you won’t be allowed to freely wander. Phone: Intl. calling: (011) 39-06-631-0836 / Local calling: 06-631-0836

Happy travels,

Andie Easton

Read about Andie Easton and her wonderful series of books!

Exploring the Area

Here are some GetYourGuide tours in Rome.

Rome Walking Tours

GuruWalk lists pay-what-you-please walking tours that connect tourists with tour guides all around the world. Check out their tours of Rome!

Exploring the Best of San Gimignano in Tuscany in One Day

Destinations, Italy Artsy Traveler 4 Comments

Last updated on October 17th, 2025 at 01:09 am

Known as the City of Towers, the medieval town of San Gimignano is an entrancing place that I never tire of exploring.

Yes, plenty of crowds surge through the town, especially on hot summer days. You’ll also find loads of tourist dreck in the shops.

But unlike some of Italy’s most visited cities (think Florence!), San Gimignano manages to retain its medieval charm.

I’ve visited the town numerous times and even set my first novel there (The Towers of Tuscany).

I’ve nowhere near stopped loving it!

Pinterest graphic with the text "Exploring San Gimignano in Tuscany" over a picture of the towers of San Gimignano in Tuscany, Italy.

San Gimignano at a Glance

Visit San Gimignano 1300 and find out what the town looked like in the 14th Century
View the marvelous frescoes in the Museo Civico and the Duomo
Climb the Torre Grossa to see stunning views of the Tuscan countryside
Spend an evening in the town at one of the many gourmet restaurants
Stay in a place outside the city with the view of the towers: the Hotel Pescille is a good bet

San Gimignano Snapshot

Even if you visit San Gimignano on the most tourist-heavy days, you need only walk a few paces away from the main thoroughfare (Via San Giovanni) to find yourself virtually alone in a quiet back street.

Hear birds twittering and watch local sweeping her front stoop.

The small side streets in San Gimignano are quiet and crowd-free.

The heaving, sweating, shopping masses of humanity packing the piazzas and dripping gelato on the cobblestones are a distant memory.

Map of San Gimignano

Here’s a map of San Gimignano. It’s a very small and walkable city. You can cross it from gate to gate in about fifteen minutes. Also included on the map are the location of my three recommended hotels.

Trip map created using Wanderlog, a road trip planner app on iOS and Android

Welcome to the 14th Century

You’re in the 14th century! Your long gown swishes around your legs and you listen for the bells that divide your days and regulate your life.

If you’re a woman, you might be on your way to the baker for a loaf of fresh bread or to the church to make confession. If you’re a man, you could be meeting a kinsman to settle a festering vendetta or to chat with a fellow guild member about the crocus trade.

In the Middle Ages, much of San Gimignano’s wealth came from the cultivation of saffron from the stamens of crocuses. Also lucrative was textile manufacturing and the production of Vernaccia, a lovely white wine still produced today (it’s very good!).

Walk up to the ruined fortezza. There, you’ll enjoy this stunning view of the towers.

View of the city of San Gimignano, Italy

When you walk the back streets of San Gimignano in the 21st century, you’re only an ounce of imagination away from the Middle Ages.

The Towers of San Gimignano

San Gimignano is famous for its towers. In fact, the town is often referred to as the Tuscan city of towers because 14 medieval towers are still standing. In its heyday in the 14th century, over 72 towers dominated its skyline.

But even with only 14 towers, San Gimignano is one of the most beautiful medieval towns in all of Italy.

Why So Many Towers?

Every medieval city had towers back in the day, but San Gimignano is unique because so many of its towers remain.

Why so many towers? We can safely assume that the medieval merchants didn’t build them to give 21st-century tourists something to point their iPhones at.

Wealthy citizens frequently competed with each other to build the tallest towers above their homes. In fact, the Podesta passed a law prohibiting any private citizen from building a tower higher than the Torre Grossa, the municipal hall which survives to this day.

The citizens of San Gimignano were a bellicose lot who sometimes attacked and destroyed towers belonging to their rivals.

The family feuds that form the basis of the Romeo and Juliet story were definitely not fiction. Vendetta and its accompanying violence were all-too-common ways to resolve differences.

History of San Gimignano

The Etruscans first settled San Gimignano in the 4th century BC, but significant growth did not occur until 1000 to 1200. Thanks to its proximity to the Via Francigena, a major route across Italy, San Gimignano was an important stopover for travelers, pilgrims, and merchants.

The town became steadily more prosperous until it declared itself a free Commune in 1199.

In 1300, the poet Dante Alighieri came to San Gimignano, and in 1317 the famous painter Lippo Memmi opened a workshop. With his father, Lippo Memmi painted a fresco cycle in the town hall that you can see today.

I include the frescoes in my post on Art Masterpieces in Tuscany You Don’t Want to Miss and below.

San Gimignano grew and prospered until the mid-14th century. Then, in 1348, the town was devastated by the plague, also known as the Black Death. More than half of the population died in a six-month period.

Following the pestilence that also ravaged most of western Europe, San Gimignano never recovered its former glory and at the end of the 14th century was finally obliged to submit to Florentine rule.

The town’s website provides an excellent overview of San Gimignano’s rise and fall over the centuries. The town is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

How to Get to San Gimignano

San Gimignano is about a 45 minute drive or a two-hour bus ride from Florence. Touring Tuscany by car is probably the best way to see the countryside.

When you arrive, park in one of the parking lots at the base of the town. As you enter San Gimignano, you’ll see electronic signs telling you which parking lots have space. The town is well prepared for the daily onslaught of visitors.

From the parking lots, take the elevator up as far as it goes (not far) and then take the short walk into the historic centre of San Gimignano.

What To See in San Gimignano

San Gimignano’s main attraction is the town itself–the cobbled streets, the towers, the Tuscan ambience.

But you’ll also find several worthwhile attractions to explore, including my favorite, San Gimignano 1300.

San Gimignano 1300

The San Gimignano 1300 (#1) museum contains an amazing scale model of San Gimignano as it appeared in the year 1300 with its 72 towers intact.

Not long after I started my novel, The Towers of Tuscany, about a woman painter in the 14th century, I came across the website for San Gimignano 1300.

I could not believe my luck! Someone had very thoughtfully recreated the entire city in which much of the novel’s action takes place.

I had to see it! A few months after I found San Gimignano 1300 on the web, I was there in person. Few things get in the way of an historical novelist on a research warpath!

A portion of the scale model of San Gimignano at San Gimignano 1300

San Gimignano 1300 moved to a smaller venue a few years after I first saw it. The model is now divided into two sections, but you still get a good sense of how the city must have looked in 1300.

The staff at San Gimignano 1300 are lovely. I’ve returned several times in the last few years to replenish their supply of The Towers of Tuscany.

With the manager of San Gimignano 1300 where The Towers of Tuscany is available — With the manager of San Gimignano 1300 where *The Towers of Tuscany* is available

Frescoes, Frescoes, and More Frescoes

Unlike many Italian towns, San Gimignano is stuck in a medieval time warp. Most of the best art was created during the Middle Ages rather than the Renaissance.

I’m a medieval girl at heart and prefer the flatter, more stylized work of the medieval painters to the florid, somewhat over-produced paintings of the Renaissance.

Museo Civico

The first stop for art lovers should be the frescoes in the Museo Civico. Painted by Memmo de Filippuccio and his son Lippo Memmi in 1317, the frescoes portray scenes of everyday life.

Such scenes were a rarity at a time when the vast majority of frescoes and paintings depicted religious subjects.

I like best the two scenes showing a newly married couple first enjoying a communal bath together (ooh la la) and then climbing into bed.

Detail from a fresco by Memmo de Filippuccio & Lippo Memmi in the Museo Civico in San Gimignano

The scene depicting the couple getting into bed shows them as naked. While researching The Towers of Tuscany, I learned that people often slept naked to get a break from the wee beasties that infested their heavy gowns. Also, I imagine that summers in San Gimignano were as hot in the 14th century as they are today.

Tip: Always get a hotel with air conditioning between May and October.

Another fabulous fresco in the Museo Civico is The Maestà by Lippo Memmi. Commissioned in 1317, the fresco is said to have been inspired by Simone Martini’s Maestà from the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena.

The fresco shows Mary seated on a throne surrounded by adoring saints and angels.

Frescoes in the Cathedral of San Gimignano

Other frescoes worth seeing in San Gimignano cover the walls of the cathedral (the Duomo – #2) in the Piazza Duomo in the town center.

One set, painted by Bartolo di Fredi in 1356, depicts scenes from the Old Testament. I particularly like the figure of Noah lying drunk on the ground, his gown open to reveal that he is definitely not wearing his boxer shorts. There’s nothing new under the sun!

Another set of frescoes depicting Hell was painted by Benozzo Gozzoli in 1465. The frescoes are terrifyingly realistic. You might want to avoid them if you’re traveling with children.

Torre Grossa

The tallest tower in San Gimignano, at 54 meters (178 feet), is the Torre Grossa (#3), part of the Palazzo Comunale where the Museo Civico is housed.

It’s worth the effort to climb to the top and see the stunning view. If it’s a fine day, go early or late to avoid the crowds.

Torre Grossa in San Gimignano, Tuscany, Italy

Here’s an option for tickets to the Torre Grossa and the Duomo:

San Gimignano at Night

Ahhhh….! The tour buses have puffed their way down the hill, the shops are shuttered, and peace descends.

Thanks to floodlit towers, the darkness never gets close to the black intensity of the olden days, but your imagination can still get a workout.

You’ll find plenty of good places to eat in San Gimignano. In recent years, the town has become something of a mecca for gourmets. But wherever you decide to eat, make sure you order a glass or two of the delightfully white vernaccia di San Gimignano wine.

Afterwards, walk off the dinner and wine with a stroll through the fast emptying piazzas. The later it gets, the quieter the streets become.

And, unlike in the 14th century, walking the streets of San Gimignano after dark is not dangerous. No assassins are intent on revenging a vendetta; no watchmen are standing by to clamp into irons people ignoring curfews.

Piazza della Cisterna in San Gimignano at night

When to Visit

The best times for a visit to San Gimignano are late spring when the surrounding countryside is drenched in the freshest greens imaginable and in September/October when golden light and crisp days make sightseeing a pleasure.

Just remember to take along a rain jacket and a sweater.

Where to Stay in San Gimignano

In your Tuscany itinerary, allocate at least one night and preferably two nights to staying near San Gimignano. Most bus tours pop in and out for a few hours, staying just long enough for people to sip a cappuccino, climb a tower, and shop.

If you really want to experience this lovely town, stay a while, preferably at one of the lovely hotels in the gorgeous countryside.

Here are three options, all of which I’ve stayed in and can heartily recommend.

Cappuccina Country Resort is situated north of San Gimignano and commands a wonderful view of the towers from its swimming pool
Also north of San Gimignano is the lovely Villa Ducci with friendly staff and rooms overlooking the towers.
Hotel Pescille is on the opposite side of San Gimignano and is my favorite (I’ve stayed there three times). Ask for a room that overlooks the valley with the towers of San Gimignano beyond.

Here are some more options for places to stay in San Gimignano:

Tours to San Gimignano

One way to see San Gimignano if you don’t have a car is on a day trip from Florence. If you’re short on time, then taking a tour that drops you at the gates of this enchanting city is certainly better than not visiting at all! Here’s an option with GetYourGuide that includes Siena and a wine tour.

Conclusion

Have you visited San Gimignano? Share your tips and suggestions for other artsy travelers in the Comments below.

Here are some more posts about traveling in Tuscany:

Recommended Places to Stay in Italy That Will Make Great Memories

Destinations, Hotel Reviews, Italy, Travel Smart Artsy Traveler 1 Comment

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 09:37 pm

I’ve had great luck finding marvelous places to stay in Italy.

Hotel proprietors are friendly, and these days almost all of them speak English.

In this post, I provide general tips about accommodations in Italy and list hotels I recommend.

Pinterest graphic with the text Recommended Places to Stay in Italy That will make great memories over an old wall with a hotel sign.

Choosing a Room

To Book or Not to Book?

I book almost all the hotels on my itinerary before I leave home so I know I’ll have places to stay in every location. While traveling, I sometimes change bookings to follow a new route or in response to hearing about a cool location I hadn’t known about.

TIP: Stay flexible when you travel. You never know when you might meet someone who recommends a festival or event or exhibition. More than once, I’ve altered an itinerary to attend a special exhibition or visit a new attraction.

Choose a hotel booking site that allows you to book and then cancel hotel reservations as your itinerary changes. Most sites offer you a no-cancellation option at a lower price. I never choose the no-cancellation price unless I’m 100% sure I’ll be staying at the hotel. For example, I’ll select the no-cancellation price for hotels I’m staying at in the cities I fly into and depart from because I know those locations won’t change.

But overall, stay flexible. I’ve learned from experience that sticking to a rigid itinerary with no-cancellation accommodations can end up costing you more money than you save.

Breakfasts – Prima Colazione

Breakfasts in Italy usually consist of scrumptious pastries, fresh fruit, dry cereal, cold meats and cheeses, and coffee. I only eat the hotel breakfast if it’s included in the room rate or if I didn’t get a chance to buy food before checking in.

If hotel breakfasts cost extra (and the cost can be exorbitant), I buy yogurt and fruit at a local grocery store and then go to a bar or café for my morning cappuccino.

Location

In Italy in particular, I only stay in the center of a town or city if I’m not driving. As I’ve mentioned elsewhere, driving into medieval hill towns can be a nightmare, and driving into cities like Rome is definitely not recommended!

A great advantage of traveling in Italy by public transit is that you can choose to stay in picturesque and historic town centers (centros). Grab a taxi from the train station and let your driver negotiate the tiny cobbled alleyways while you enjoy watching the passing throngs and imagining yourself back in the Middle Ages.

Tips for Drivers in Italy

When driving in Italy, I book places on the outskirts of the town or city and then take trams or taxis into the centro for sightseeing. In rural areas, like Tuscany and Umbria, I always book places located in the gorgeous countryside so I can take walks and, if it’s hot, enjoy a dip in the pool.

When selecting a hotel outside a city, I usually opt for a modern business hotel that includes free parking. Chains such as NH, Blu, and Best Western are generally reliable.

TIP: For a taste of la dolce vita, consider booking an agriturismo property for a week or more in a rural area. Attached to a working farm or vineyard, these properties provide you with opportunities to meet local families and to sample local food.

Star Rating

Over the years, I’ve stayed in many clean and well-run budget hotels in Italy, but these days I favor three- or four-star properties because I appreciate amenities such as elevators, air conditioning, parking, bathtubs, and in-room WIFI.

I also like larger rooms. Check the square meterage of the room. Anything under 15 square meters will be small, with a child-size shower stall and barely enough room to wedge your suitcase against the wall.

Reviews – Should You Care?

Yes, I pay attention to reviews. If a property’s aggregate review is under 8.0 out of a possible 10, I usually pass. Sometimes the difference between a property with a 9.6 review and one with an 8.2 review is only a few euros, and yet the quality of the higher-rated property makes the extra money worth spending.

You have to take reviews with a grain of salt, however. Just because a property has a score of 9.8 doesn’t meant it’s five-star luxury. Check the star rating, remember that a 9.8 score for a two-star hotel is not the same as a 9.8 for a four-star, and proceed accordingly.

TIP: Read reviews on a few sites, such as booking.com and TripAdvisor. I take my time when booking accommodations in Italy and elsewhere to make sure I’m getting the best value for my travel dollar.

Accommodation Options by Region

To help you plan your Italy getaway, here are my recommendations. For each destination, I describe properties I’ve stayed in along and suggest alternate properties that look good.

You can click the link to the hotel to make a reservation with booking.com.

Northern Italy

Turin

The Parco Hotel Sassi, located 4 kilometers from Turin, worked well for us when we were driving from France to Italy. We checked the pictures of the hotel and noted it was surrounded by the greenery of the Po Natural Park. When booking hotels on the outskirts of a town, make sure you don’t end up in a dreary suburb. Parco Hotel Sassi is situated in an attractive area outside of Turin.

We appreciated the large rooms, beautiful grounds, and proximity to a family restaurant that served one of the best meals we’ve had in Italy. We left the car in the free car park and hopped the tram to get into Turin.

On another trip to Turin, we stayed in an apartment in the heart of the city. This was a great choice because we were staying in Turin for ten days and wanted to be able to walk everywhere. We parked our car in an underground lot nearby.

Called the Casa Vittoria, the two-0bedroom, well-appointed apartment was great value and in an excellent location for exploring lovely Turin.

Milan

I can’t recommend the nondescript 3-star hotel we stayed in while visiting Milan a few years ago. It was located near the train station and was a bit on the dark and small side. I don’t recommend getting places too close to the train station in big cities. In my experience, such hotels tend to be rather soul-less!

I’ve provided two options located in the lively center of Milan for travelers who are not traveling by car (take a taxi from the train station). If you are traveling by car, check the maps and select a hotel located near the main highway of your route into the city. Note that Milan is not as crazy to drive in as, say, Rome. However, it is a big city, and, as a rule, steering clear of big cities is the less stressful option. After all, you’re on vacation!

I once stayed in a teeny tiny room in a business hotel near Malpensa airport, but I can’t recommend it unless you have an early flight to catch.

In central Milan, Antica Locanda Dei Mercanti looks like an excellent, relatively high-end choice located close to the Sforza Castle and featuring terraces and views. The reviews are excellent, and the rooms appear quite spacious. The hotel includes an airport shuttle, but parking is €38 a day so probably not the best choice for drivers.

Also in central Milan, Hotel Gran Duca Di York is a three-star hotel in an excellent location near the Duomo. Ratings are good, although room sizes are not specified for all room types, and some look small. However, the price is reasonable, considering it’s Milan..

Have a look at the map below for additional accommodation options in Milan.

Booking.com

Bolzano

The Hotel Magdalener-Hof, high on a hill above Bolzano, was a perfect stop for us when we were en route to Venice after crossing into Italy through the Brenner Pass from Austria. We had a dip in the pool overlooking the view and then caught the local bus into Bolzano to wander its colorful streets before enjoying dinner at a restaurant on the town square. At the end of the evening, we grabbed a taxi back to the hotel for about €5–much easier and less stressful than driving into town and looking for parking.

Dolomites

We drove up into the Dolomites to the picturesque Alpine village of Seis and stayed in the Parc Hotel Florian. The view from our balcony of needle-sharp Mount Schlern looming above the village was fabulous–exactly the view of the Dolomites I’d hoped for. The hotel included a hearty dinner, which was great because restaurant options in the area were limited. The hotel makes a good home base if you plan to spend a few days in the area and take lifts up to the Alpe di Siusi to go hiking.

Venice and Ravenna

Venice

If you’re staying in Venice for two or three days, consider the Dorsoduro district across the Grand Canal from the Piazza San Marco. I recommend you avoid the area immediately adjacent to Piazza San Marco. Hotels there can be expensive, and the tiny streets in the area are wall-to-wall tourists during the day.

Here are suggestions for hotels that we have stayed in–one in the Dorsoduro and one near the Rialto Bridge.

Hotel Messner is a more modest option, located in the Dorsoduro neighborhood close to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. It was quiet, and the area was peaceful and uncrowded, particularly at night.

For other options in Venice, check the map below. Resist the temptation to stay on the mainland. The savings will be minimal once you take into account train fares and your time. Stay in the middle of Venice and enjoy this unique city.

Booking.com

Ravenna

We were driving when we visited Ravenna, so we stayed at the Grand Hotel Mattei, about a ten-minute taxi ride from the center of Ravenna. The hotel was large and modern and included free parking–a perfect choice! When we’re driving in Italy, convenience usually wins out over charm.

The map below shows more options in and around Ravenna.

Booking.com

Tuscany

We’ve stayed in marvelous hotels and bed-and-breakfasts in Tuscany–some in the countryside and some in the towns. You’ll find amazing villa properties in Tuscany and pay equally amazing prices. Most of my suggestions are in the modest €80-150 per night range.

Florence

One of the best weeks I spent in Florence was at a rented house high above the city, near Fiesole. While swimming in the pool, we could see the Duomo shimmering in the distance. If you have the time and a car, consider renting a house a few kilometers outside Florence. You can then drive to one of the parking lots on the perimeter of the city and catch a bus into the centro.

Here are two suggestions for hotels I’ve stayed at in central Florence.

Hotel Pitti Palace at Ponte Vecchio is a great choice because it’s across the Ponte Vecchio in the atmospheric and marginally less crowded San Giovanni district. I stayed there on a solo trip to Florence and was especially taken by the views from the rooftop bar. Highly recommended.

View from the rooftop bar at the Hotel Pitti Palace in Florence

The Hotel Alba Palace is an elegant property in a good location near Santa Maria Novella Basilica.

If you’re driving, you do not want to drive into central Florence. Instead, find a place on the outskirts and take a bus. Here are two places we’ve stayed in that I recommend.

The Hotel Ungherese is a two-star, budget option that includes a statue-filled garden, views over Florence, spacious rooms, and easy parking. It’s a good bargain and not far from Florence on the local bus. The Hilton Garden Hotel Florence Novoli is a four-star, reasonably-priced property a 15-minute bus ride from the center of Florence. The hotel is slick and modern and lacking in charm. However, it’s easy to find, and parking is underground and secure.

For other accommodation options in Florence, check the map below.

Booking.com

San Gimignano

I heartily recommend three places outside the walls of San Gimignano that I’ve stayed in over the years. My favorite is the Hotel Pescille which I’ve stayed in at least four times since we discovered it back in 1999!

Hotel Pescille: This three-star establishment has a killer view over the valley to the towers of San Gimignano. I keep returning to the Hotel Pescille for its simple but comfortable rooms, its fabulous location in the Tuscan countryside, and the rustic furnishings. The walls in the common areas are decorated with farm implements, and ceramic pumpkins adorn niches and stairwells. The Hotel Pescille is located about a five-minute drive south of San Gimignano.

On our most recent trip, we took several walks near the hotel to admire the view. Here’s a shot of San Gimignano from a vantage point close to the Hotel Pescille. Look at those clouds!

San Gimignano, Tuscany, Italy — I give you San Gimignano!

Relais Cappuccina: On the north side of San Gimignano, the Relais Cappuccina affords a different–and equally stunning–panoramic view of San Gimignano than that of the Hotel Pescille. The pool at this hotel is lovely, thanks to its situation overlooking San Gimignano. Our room was spacious and bright and included a terrace.

The swimming pool at the Relais Cappuccina with San Gimignano in the distance

Villa Ducci: I stayed here on my own while researching my novel, The Towers of Tuscany, and loved it. The staff were friendly and helpful. They even allowed me to view the cellar with its 14th-century foundations that later played a role in the novel. The Villa Ducci, like the Relais Cappuccina, is located on the north side of San Gimignano. Here’s a sunrise view of the town I snapped one morning.

Sunrise over San Gimignano seen from my balcony at the Villa Ducci

The map below shows more options for staying in or near San Gimignano. If you’re traveling without a car, consider one of the hotels in the center of the town so you can enjoy moonlit strolls around the medieval streets before turning in.

Booking.com

Siena

Palazzo Masi: This small bed-and-breakfast in the center of Siena is steps from the Campo and located in a building that dates from the 14th century. I stayed here while researching The Towers of Tuscany. It’s a great choice if you’re not driving in Siena.

Athena Hotel: This is a wonderful choice if you’re driving because it’s located just inside the city walls and easily accessible. The rooms are large and the views over the countryside spectacular. We’ll stay there again, for sure.

Check the map for more accommodation options in Siena. If you’re driving, choose properties at or near the city walls rather than in the center of the city where access is tight and parking at a premium.

Booking.com

Tarquinia

Casale Dinelli: This is a lovely agriturismo property near Tarquinia, consisting of two small guest cottages set in beautiful grounds that included vegetable gardens we were welcome to raid.

Charming cottage accommodations at the Casale Dinelli

Breakfast food supplied; strawberries fresh from the garden

Umbria

We stayed for ten days in Umbria in an amazing apartment attached to the gallery where Gregg had an exhibition. Located outside the lovely little town of Gualdo Tadino, the place made a wonderful home base for exploring the principal towns of Umbria.

Because we chose a homestay for our Umbria visit in 2018, most of my recommendations for these towns are based on user reviews rather than personal experience. We did, however, stay in the Hotel Valentino in Orvieto the first time we visited Umbria.

Assisi

The Vico del Poeta looks like an excellent, medieval bed-and- breakfast in Assisi. Reviews are good, and free parking is included (always a bonus!).

Grand Hotel Assisi: I like the look of this place–panoramic views, a swimming pool, and a reasonable price.

Orvieto

Hotel Valentino is situated in the centro storico (the historical center) of Orvieto but is accessible by car. We loved being in the middle of the medieval action here–able to stroll the cobbled streets after all the crowds were gone. The hotel itself is old and rather dark but comfortable and clean. A solid choice.

Hotel Palazzo Piccolomini has great ratings and looks pretty posh but with a reasonable price.

Agriturismo Podere Pescara is located in the countryside near Orvieto. The surroundings look amazing! Very Tuscan.

Perugia

Sangallo Palace includes balconies, views, and what looks to be a lovely ambiance near Perugia.

Marche

I have to put in a plug for the Hotel Emilia, high on a cliff overlooking the Adriatic Sea on the east coast of Italy. If you drive east through Umbria, you’ll likely end up in the Marche, the biggest city being Ancona on the coast. Once a bit off the tourist track, the region is getting more popular and for good reason.

The Hotel Emilia is wonderful; stunning views and fabulous modern sculptures and paintings decorate the grounds and public rooms. We stayed for two nights, relaxing in the gardens overlooking the misty view of the legend-shrouded Adriatic, taking long walks along the cliff top, and enjoying a beachside dinner in the village of Portonovo a few minutes’ drive down the hill. We were there in May, which is still the off-season. I gather that in the summer, the beach is mobbed!

View over Portonovo from the Hotel Emilia

Rome

We tend to favor apartments when staying in Rome. Our favorite location is in the tiny streets leading into the Piazza Navona. One year we had an apartment that included a rooftop terrace! Hotels are plentiful but not budget-friendly in Rome. Here are two hotels and one apartment I’ve stayed in that I recommend.

Deko Rome is a small bed-and-breakfast located close to the Borghese Gardens in a lovely residential area of Rome. I stayed there when I traveled to Rome on my own and found it comfortable and budget-friendly.

Hotel Paba is a small, two-star hotel that occupies the second floor of a residential building conveniently located on the Via Cavour, not far from the Colosseum. In fact, you can see the Colosseum from the street. The decor is old-fashioned and cosy and the price reasonable, considering the central location.

Viam 16B Suites is probably my very favorite suite hotel I’ve stayed in anywhere in Europe. It’s stylish, includes a private terrace, and is located in a great area of Rome – close to the Piazza Popolo and the Spanish Steps.

Check the map for more accommodation options in Rome. I suggest the area around the Piazza Navona or the less touristy Trastevere.

Booking.com

Campania

Naples

We stayed in the Hotel Paradiso. Located on Posillipo Hill, the hotel has a commanding view across the Bay of Naples to Mount Vesuvius. Relax on the terrace and enjoy! The hotel is comfortable and reasonably priced.

Sorrento

The Hotel Eden has a central location in Sorrento, with rooms on the upper floors overlooking the stunning view of the Bay of Naples. Lush gardens and a pool provide a welcome oasis. This is a good choice for Sorrento, although not budget-friendly.

Positano

We didn’t stay in Positano, so my recommendations are based on what I think looks good. Prices are high in this holiday mecca, so if Positano is above your price range, consider staying longer in Sorrento and taking a day tour down the Amalfi coast.

In Positano, the über posh Sirenuse Hotel is über expensive, but if you’re budget runs to it – wowee! Scenes from Only You were filmed there.

A more budget-friendly option is the Villa Antonietta that still has sea views but is much more modestly appointed.

Paestum

The Hotel Savoy, steps from the beach near Paestum is an awesome place to stay. It’s super luxurious and yet surprisingly affordable.

Tours & Tickets in Italy

Here are some options to explore through GetYourGuide and Tiqets.com, both companies I’ve booked with several times, and had good experiences.

Do you have accommodation recommendations to share? Please let me know in the Comments section. I’m always on the lookout for new places to stay in Italy. I’m always on the lookout for new places to stay in Italy.

Here are some more posts to enjoy while you’re planning your trip to Italy:

The Best of Rome in Three Days

Destinations, Italy Artsy Traveler 1 Comment

Last updated on January 17th, 2025 at 09:28 pm

Rome wasn’t built in a day so don’t try to see all of it in a day. You’ll exhaust yourself and come away feeling ripped off.

The Eternal City demands your time. Even three full days doesn’t come close to doing justice to Bella Roma, but it’s better than one.

This post presents my suggestions for how to spend three full days in the eternal city.

Pinterest graphic with the text Best of Rome in Three Days. The picture above the text is of the Roman Forum and the picture below the text is of a quaint street with flowers in Rome.

Best of Rome at a Glance

Staying in Sant Angelo Apartments in the Jewish Ghetto
Exploring the Trastavere
Checking out Domus Aurea
Visiting the Borghese Gardens
Getting out of town to explore the Appian Way

Day 1: Ancient Rome

You could easily spend several days just focusing your sightseeing energies on ancient Roman sites. They’re everywhere! But top of the list are the Colosseum and the Forum, the Domus Aurea (if you’re in Rome on a Saturday or Sunday), and the Pantheon.

Colosseum and Forum

Start your day with an early visit to the Colosseum followed by a wander through the Forum. Of the two Roman sites, the Colosseum gets the most crowded, so be sure to see it first. Alternatively, tour the Colosseum and Forum later in the day when the crowds may be less.

Also known as the Flavian Amphitheatre, the iconic Colosseum has become the symbol of Rome. Construction of the Colosseum began in AD 72 by order of the Emperor Vespasian and was completed in AD 80. It was the largest colosseum in the world with a capacity of 50,000 spectators.

Seeing it now, you’ll be hard-pressed to believe that it held that many people.

I was a bit underwhelmed the first time I saw the interior of the Colosseum. My imagination couldn’t quite conjure the scenes of wild animals tormenting terrified Christians, which is probably just as well.

That said, put the Colosseum at the top of your Rome sightseeing list. Just make sure to buy your tickets in advance for both the Colosseum and the Forum.

Another option is to book a nighttime tour of the Colosseum that takes you to the Colosseum’s underground corridors, the arena, and the first ring of the seating area. I haven’t taken this tour, but it sounds intriguing and crowd-free (always a selling point for me).

Stone tunnels underneath the Colosseum in Rome. — Visit the Colosseum on a n ighttime tour!

Purchase tickets here for the Colosseum Nighttime tour.

Domus Aurea

The Domus Aurea is in the vicinity of the Forum and Colosseum. We visited the Domus Aurea in 2001, not long after it opened in 1999 when we were able to wander freely around the massive excavated rooms. The site was closed in 2005 and reopened in 2007, with more galleries added in 2015. The number of visitors is now restricted, with everyone required to wear a helmet.

Built by the Emperor Nero in 64 AD, the Domus Aurea had 300 rooms and occupied about 50 hectares–and was used exclusively for parties. That Nero was some kind of party animal.

Visit the Domus Aurea by guided tour and only on Saturdays and Sundays. If you can get tickets, go. The guided tour consists of a twelve-stage itinerary that includes a virtual reality installation in the Sala della Volta Dorata. Visitors are purportedly transported to an ancient, rich, and magical world.

A group of tourists wearing helmets and preparing to tour a vast vaulted corridor in the Domus Aurea in Rome. — Visit the Domus Aurea on a guided tour.

Pantheon

The area around the Pantheon in central Rome is always hopping. Visit later in the day when the crowds are thinning.

The Pantheon is remarkable for its dome–still the world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome, which is amazing, considering the Pantheon was built 2,000 years ago. Thanks to continuous use for two millennia, the Pantheon is one of the best-preserved buildings from ancient Rome. Originally a temple, the Pantheon is now a church.

See the Pantheon on your own or, for a few euros more, take a guided tour.

The Pantheon in Rome and the piazza in front of it. — Consider a guided tour of the Pantheon

After touring the Pantheon, treat yourself to a gelato and watch the world go by from one of the cafés bordering the piazza in front of the Pantheon. I still remember fondly the fig gelato I sampled while visiting the area.

Spend the evening getting lost in the maze of streets leading from the Pantheon to the Piazza Navona and then find a place for dinner. Choose small restaurants on side streets that are filled with locals.

The area around the Piazza Navona is my favorite part of Rome.

Day 2: Catholic Rome

Rome bristles with churches, some dating back to Roman times and most containing priceless works of art, particularly from the Renaissance and Baroque eras. You can’t see all the churches in one day, nor should you try!

Focus first on St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Museum and then go back across the Tiber to visit San Pietro di Vincoli and the Basilica of San Clemente.

St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Museum

A visit to St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Museum requires stamina. Line-ups are inevitable even with advance tickets. You can’t avoid the long, sweaty trek through room after room of the Vatican Museum before finally arriving in the Sistine Chapel.

But the trek is worth it. Just make sure you buy your tickets for the Vatican Museum well in advance.

Sistine Chapel

The Sistine Chapel heaves with tourists. There’s no escaping them (and you are one of them!) so just tilt your head back and admire Michelangelo’s ceiling. My favorite memory of the Sistine Chapel is when, on my first visit at the age of 18, I heard a woman behind me say to her companion, “Do y’all think it was done by hand?” I resisted the temptation to turn around and tell her it was paint by numbers.

The Sistine Chapel was restored by Pope Sixtus IV, famous for his patronage of the arts. He also makes an appearance in the TV series Medici, which I write about in a post over on my sister website, Art In Fiction. Pope Julius II is responsible for commissioning Michelangelo to cover the ceiling with his magnificent frescoes between 1508 and 1512.

St. Peter’s Basilica is a must-see because it is humongous. My favorite part is viewing the size of various world cathedrals marked in the nave. Washington’s National Cathedral is marked at 139 meters, which is about half the length of St. Peter’s nave.

The last time I visited St. Peter’s, the organ was at full volume and wow! Transfixing, for sure.

I love the exterior of St. Peter’s. A gorgeous double sweep of Bernini columns embraces two sides of the square.

A section of the Bernini columns at St. Peter's Basilica — A section of the Bernini columns at St. Peter’s Basilica

Castel Sant-Angelo

On your way back over the Tiber to central Rome, you’ll pass by the Castel Sant’Angelo. Also known as the Mausoleum of Hadrian, the site technically belongs with the ancient Rome Day 1 itinerary. However, its location near St. Peter’s and the Vatican makes it a good stop on Day 2.

Originally built to be the mausoleum for the Roman Emperor Hadrian and his family, the structure was later used by the popes as a fortress and castle and is now the Museo Nazionale di Castel Sant’Angelo.

Castel Sant'Angelo in Rome — Castel Sant’Angelo in Rome

The museum is a worthwhile stop, primarily because of the view of Rome seen from the top. Go at sunset for some great photo ops. The area around Castel Sant’Angelo teems with tourists, so a view like the one below is virtually impossible!

Cross the bridge from the Castel Sant’Angelo and plunge back into medieval Rome. Stay around the Piazza Navona for the rest of the day, enjoying gelatos and people-watching, or continue your Catholic Rome wanderings by visiting two more churches.

Take a bus or a taxi back towards the Colosseum area to find San Pietro in Vincoli.

TIP: To get around Rome, consider taking taxis and busses. Taxi drivers skillfully weave through the dense traffic–better them than me! Prices are reasonable and worth it to save your feet. Busses in Rome are also a good bet. Use your phone to familiarize yourself with the bus routes. I prefer riding the bus to riding the metro (which has limited routes) because then I can watch Rome go by.

San Pietro in Vincoli

Not far from the Colosseum are a few churches worth visiting, particularly San Pietro in Vincoli (Saint Peter in Chains) where Michelangelo’s statue of Moses dominates the side altar.

Whenever I’ve visited this church, it’s been quiet and uncrowded. I love standing in front of the Moses statue and admiring the way Michelangelo sculpted Moses’s hands. Truly remarkable.

Marble statue of Moses sculpted by Michelangelo in the San Pietro in Vincoli church in Rome

Basilica of San Clemente

Located not far from the Colosseum, the Basilica of San Clemente appeals to me because it was built on the site of a house containing a shrine of the Roman god Mithras. An underground passage leads to the excavated foundations of the 2nd-century Roman house. A relief on the altar shows the Persian sun god, Mithras, killing a bull.

The underground area is super dark and creepy, providing great scope for the imagination.

Day 3: Pastoral Rome

Rome is not all churches and ruins. It also has the marvelous Borghese Gardens, the atmospheric Trastevere region, and the achingly pastoral Appian Way, several metro stops from the center of the city.

See the Galleria Borghese and the Borghese Gardens in the morning, zip out to the Appian Way for lunch and a lovely afternoon stroll, then end your day with dinner in the Trastevere neighborhood across the Tiber from central Rome.

Borghese Gardens and the Galleria Borghese

Head to the Borghese Gardens and tour the Galleria Borghese. You must get tickets ahead of time. This stunning gallery reopened recently after being renovated. You’ll see some of the masterpieces of the Baroque age, including works by Caravaggio and the famous sculpture of Apollo and Daphne and The Rape of Proserpina by Bernini.

I first saw Bernini’s sculptures when I visited Rome in 1974. Works of that quality were thin on the ground in the Vancouver suburb where I’d grown up, so I was understandably impressed. Check out the way Pluto’s fingers press into Proserpina’s flesh and then remember that you’re looking at marble.

*The Rape of Proserpina* by Bernini in the Galleria Borghese: Buy tickets in advance

Amazing!

After partaking of the Baroque delights at the Galleria Borghese, spare an hour or so to wander around the gardens of the Villa Borghese. On a solo trip to Rome a few years ago, I stayed in a bed-and-breakfast about a block from the park and enjoyed early-morning strolls alongside Roman joggers.

Appian Way

In the afternoon, depending on the weather and your energy level, consider taking the metro out to the Appian Way (Via Appia Antica).

You’re transported from noisy modern Rome to an Arcadian landscape of plane trees and cypresses lining the original Roman road. Rent a bike or just stroll along the stone roadbed, imagining Roman chariots rumbling past.

Gregg and I spent a magical afternoon there, communing with the ghosts of the Roman rich people whose tombs line the road. The peace and quiet soothed nerves that can get a bit overstimulated by the hustle and traffic of downtown Rome.

The beautifully pastoral and peaceful Appian Way outside Rome

Trastevere

Spend an evening strolling the quiet streets of the Trastevere neighborhood. The working-class area still feels authentic and Roman. Find a small restaurant overlooking one of the piazzas and settle in for dinner.

Trastevere is located on the same side of the Tiber as St. Peter’s Basilica, about a ten-minute bus ride alongside the river.

Cobbled street in the charming Trastevere area of Rome

Here’s a good article about what to do and see in Trastevere.

Tours in Rome

Here are some tours offered by Tiqets.com:

And here are some tours offered through GetYourGuide:

Fancy a walking tour? The tours offered through GuruWalks are a good bet. Here are their tours in Rome.

Where to Stay in Rome

If you’re staying in Rome for more than two or three nights, consider renting an apartment. I’ve had good luck with VRBO and booking.com. When you stay in an apartment, you live like a temporary local, buying food from the local markets, and getting to know neighborhood restaurants and cafés.

Here are some good options:

The Sant’Angelo Apartments in the Jewish Ghetto area of Rome, very close to a lot of Roman ruins in addition to the Capitoline Museum and the Piazza Venezia, site of the Victor Emmanuel monument. The apartment was quite spacious and the location can’t be beat for exploring ancient Rome.

I also recommend Viam 6B located between the Spanish Steps and the Piazza Popolo–a very upscale and chi-chi part of Rome with lots of designer stores. The apartment was very modern and comfortable and included a beautiful outdoor terrace.

For more accommodation suggestions in Rome, see Recommended Plays to Stay in Italy That Will Make Great Memories.

Conclusion

Here are some more posts to give you a taste of Italy:

Best of Venice at a Glance

Why I Love Venice

When to Visit Venice

A Three-Day Venice Itinerary

Day 1 in Venice

Arrival in Venice

Getting Around Venice

Buy Tickets in Advance for the Vaporetto

Areas to Stay in Venice

Activities on Day 1 in Venice

Visit the Peggy Guggenheim Museum

Cross the Rialto Bridge

Visit Piazza San Marco

Take a Traghetto Back Across the Grand Canal

Dine at a Small Trattoria

Day 2 in Venice

Activities on Day 2 in Venice

Visit the Accademia Gallery

Take the Vaporetto to Murano

Enjoy a Glass-blowing Demonstration

Browse the Shops

Enjoy Lunch Along the Canal in Murano

Attend a Concert of Italian Baroque Music

Get Lost in Venice After Dark

Day 3 in Venice

Activities on Day 3 in Venice

Tour the Duomo and Doge’s Palace

Take a Gondola Ride at Dusk

Tours of Venice

Walking Tours of Venice with GuruWalks

Staying in Venice

Accommodation Suggestions

Conclusion

England

Entertaining Mr Pepys by Deborah Swift

The Lost Book of the Grail by Charlie Lovett

France

Drawing Lessons by Patricia Sands

The Paris Hours by Alex George

Germany

And After the Fire by Lauren Belfer

Chasing the Wind by C. C. Humphreys

Italy

Raphael, Painter in Rome by Stephanie Storey

Netherlands

Girl with a Pearl Earring by Tracy Chevalier

Spain

The Return by Victoria Hislop

The Miramonde Trilogy by Amy Maroney

Map of Italy: Suggested Artsy Sightseeing Choices

Greek Ruins

Staying In Paestum

Etruscan Art

Tarquinia

National Etruscan Museum in Rome

Ancient Roman

Hadrian’s Villa

Ostia Antica

Baths of Caracalla

Archeological Museum of Naples

Staying in Rome

Early Christian and Byzantine Art

Staying in Ravenna

Medieval Era

San Gimignano 1300

Staying in San Gimignano

Renaissance Era

Staying in Florence

Baroque Era

Modern Art in Italy

Peggy Guggenheim Museum

National Museum of Modern Art in Rome

Tarot Garden: Sculptures by Niki de Saint Phalle

Exploring the Area

Conclusion

Map of Favorite Regions in Italy

Northern Italy

Highlights of Northern Italy

Venice

Highlights of Venice

Oil and Ma rble by Stephanie Storey