Sunrise over Chiang Mai in Thailand

Why I Got Up at 4:30 AM in Chiang Mai (And Why You Should Too)

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On top of a mountain, inside a gold-domed Buddhist temple, with the sound of ancient chants soft on the dawn air, I feel like nothing external matters, that to just be, without struggle, is enough.

I’m here with my daughter Julia, a young French couple, and Non, our guide and a former monk. We’re on the Amazing Chiang Mai Sunrise Temple Tour offered by Untouched Thailand, and I can attest right at the start that the experience is mind-expanding.

Yes, you need to get up at 4:30 AM and be ready for pick up by 5, which is an ungodly hour in my books. Aren’t I supposed to be on vacation?

But when I heard my footsteps echoing softly on the shiny-floored and deserted walkways while early birds chirped and bells from the temples softly chimed, I knew I’d hit the cultural travel jackpot.

In this post, I share my experience on the Amazing Sunrise Tour. If you’re looking for a meaningful experience while visiting Chiang Mai, this is it.



Sunrise Temple Tour (The Original) Quick Facts

This is one of those experiences that sounds slightly unreasonable when you book it and reveals itself as essential once you’re living it.

  • Provider: Untouched Thailand Tour code: C.003
  • Price: 1,950 Baht per person (discounts available for groups of 3-9)
  • Pickup: 5 AM from your hotel lobby
  • Duration: Approximately 4.5 hours, back to your accommodation by 9:30 AM
  • Group size: Small
  • Transportation: Air-conditioned SUV for 5-7 people or van for larger groups
  • What’s included: Hotel pickup and drop-off, English-speaking licensed guide, breakfast, all admission fees, drinking water, accident insurance
  • What to wear: Long pants or skirt covering the knees, and shoulders covered; remove shoes at temples
  • What to bring: Camera, mosquito repellent, sunglasses, and a light sweater (January mornings on top of the mountain can be cool)
  • Book via: Untouched Thailand website or Trip Advisor

Leaving Chiang Mai Before Dawn

Chiang Mai is dark and quiet when Julia and I step out of our hotel at 4:50 AM. I’m not an early riser (more of a 7:30 kind of gal), so 4:30 feels, well, early.

Right on the dot of five, a late model SUV pulls up and out jumps Non, our guide for the day. We join a young couple from France and set off up the mountain.

Non is a personable and well-spoken guide who jokes that his name means sexy. He’s also very eager to share his knowledge of Buddhist practice.

He tells us that he was a monk at Doi Suthep temple for nine years, leaving in his mid-twenties to care for his parents. He now has a three-year-old son and leads this tour several times a week. His knowledge of Buddhist practice is deep and generous and he shares it freely throughout the morning.

The road up is steep with numerous sharp turns. Non checks more than once whether anyone feels carsick. I’m glad I don’t, because the curves are relentless. He tells us that the temple was built entirely from materials carried up the mountain by human hands, back when there was no road at all.

Non tells us that the oldest temple in the complex dates from the 14th century.

Arriving at the Temple

After about thirty minutes we reach the base of the stairs leading up to the temple. We have a choice—walk up 300 stairs or take the funicular. No prizes for correctly guessing which option I chose.

Julia and the French couple take the stairs. Non scoops up one of the many dogs clustered around him, a very plump fellow who clearly knows and loves him, and we ride the funicular together.

At the top, the complex is quiet and almost deserted. Untouched Thailand’s early start is deliberate: almost no other tours arrive this early, which means we have the place largely to ourselves.

Khom Khwaen Lanterns

Above us sway hundreds of colored lanterns.

Non explains that the lanterns come in seven colors, one for each day of the week. Your color is determined by the day you were born. I was born on a Sunday and my color is red, which pleases me enormously. Julia, born on a Tuesday, gets pink. The other colors are yellow (Monday), Green (Wednesday), Orange (Thursday), Blue (Friday), and Purple (Saturday).

You’ll see these colored lanterns all over Thailand, a constant reminder of the country’s Buddhist faith.

For more about the role that color plays in Thailand’s traditions, check out this post on a fellow travel blogger’s site.

I take a lot of photographs as the morning sky begins to lighten. With few people around to break the spell, the place feels magical.

I’m glad we’ve chosen to come so early rather than wait and join the throngs that must converge daily on the area judging from the number of food and souvenir stalls we pass, currently shuttered.

Meditating in the Temple

Non tells us we have about 90 minutes before sunrise and that we’ll spend the time learning about and participating in Buddhist practice.

First up is a visit to the main temple, where monks ranging in age from around 8 to well past 80 are already chanting. We are instructed to sit cross-legged or with legs to the side, and never to point our feet toward the Buddha.

Sitting either way defeats me these days. I ask Non for a chair, and he thoughtfully brings a low plastic chair that raises me just a few inches above the floor, feet safely tucked away, dignity intact.

I fold my hands palms up as instructed and give myself over to the chanting. It is hypnotic and deeply soothing. My mind scurries and somersaults, but I bring it back with breath and with eyes closed. I imagine starting every day this way and vow to start meditating when I get home.

After about twenty minutes we move outside. The sky is now a deep velvet blue, tinged at the edges with the first pale streaks of dawn.

Circling the Temple

Non leads us three times around the temple, each of us holding a lotus flower. The slow pace is a gift. It lets you actually look at the exquisite detail of the temple architecture rather than rushing past it.

Doi Suthep Temple at dawn

Near one of the buildings, a monk who has long since seen the back end of 80 sits cross-legged in perfect stillness. Non brings us over and asks us to kneel or bow before him. Kneeling isn’t in the cards for me, but the monk doesn’t mind. I hold out my hands, and he drops in a red thread bracelet set with five white beads.

Non explains that the beads represent the Five Perfections:

  • Gratitude
  • Kindness
  • Compassion
  • Patience
  • Wisdom

The monk asks me where I’m from, smiles, and gives me his blessing. I feel a remarkable sense of calm emanating from him, the kind that smooths away the jagged anxieties of ordinary Western life.

After ten days in Thailand, I already feel considerably less stressed and work-obsessed than when I arrived. This moment with the monk deepens it further.

I hope to carry some of that peace home to my routine: to stop working without needing to justify, to listen without needing to hear, and to look without needing to see. I am not what I produce but rather what I hold in my heart.

Non tells us that Buddhism is about fixing yourself rather than always trying to change the external world. True change comes from within.

With my heart full of Buddhist peace, I follow Non to the outlook to await the sunrise.

Sunrise Over Chiang Mai

Several dozen people have gathered at the viewing platform, but it’s by no means crowded. The morning air is cool and still. The sky to the east shifts slowly from deep blue to pale pink to orange.

And then, as it has done every dawn for countless millennia, the sun rises above the horizon, a perfect fiery orb. Cameras record the moment. People pose for pictures. I breathe a sigh of relief.

Another day to walk the earth, another day to feel grateful for.

Carol at Sunrise over Chiang Mai

I can’t get enough of the lanterns! Here’s a video taken on the terrace just after sunrise.

Giving Alms to the Monks

Non gathers us and hands each person a plate of leaf-wrapped packages of sticky rice to offer to the monks.

We line up alongside about two dozen other early risers, each also holding a plate of food provided by their guides.

The single file of monks moves past, youngest first, then the older monks. Each carries a large bowl. One by one we place our packages of rice inside. The line moves with quiet efficiency.

As I offer each package I bow slightly. Each monk gives a solemn nod in return. Non videos the whole thing, which I appreciate enormously.


Breakfast and Two More Temples

We descend by funicular, say goodbye to the French couple heading off to a cooking class, and Non takes us to breakfast: Khao Soi, the famous Chiang Mai noodle dish, alongside sticky rice and Thai-style fried chicken. At 7 AM I’m not especially hungry, but do manage to taste some Khao Soi, which is excellent.

We’re joined by a woman from Brazil and head back down the mountain to visit two more temples.

Wat Phalat

Wat Phalat is Non’s favorite temple, and after visiting I understand completely. It’s set within the forest beside a river tumbling over rocks, the sound of the water amplifying the already considerable peacefulness of the place.

The architecture reflects a mixture of Lanna (northern Thai) and Myanmar Buddhist traditions, distinctive and beautiful in a way that feels quite different from Doi Suthep.

Dogs follow us around the grounds. The forest presses in on all sides. It’s the kind of place you want to linger in for much longer than your itinerary allows.

Wat Umong

The final temple of the morning is Wat Umong, known for its striking snake-themed statues.

By this point, ten days into the trip and managing a sprained wrist that we suspect may be broken, I’m beginning to fade.

But the grounds are tranquil and the statues are unlike anything I’ve seen elsewhere in Thailand.

Non tells us a little about his family and shows us a picture of his little boy who had fallen the day before at school and has a bruised cheek. It’s a small, human moment that rounds out a morning full of them.

We’re back at our hotel in the old town by 9:30. I return to bed for a well-earned rest.


Is the Chiang Mai Sunrise Temple Tour Worth It?

Without hesitation, yes. This is the single experience from my time in Chiang Mai that I find myself returning to most often in my mind. The combination of the early light, the near-solitude, Non’s knowledge and warmth, the meditation, the alms-giving, and that brief encounter with an elderly monk handing me a bracelet of the five perfections added up to something genuinely meaningful.

If you’re visiting Chiang Mai and wondering whether to set the alarm for 4:30 AM, set it. You won’t regret it.


Practical Tips

Book directly through the Untouched Thailand website or TripAdvisor.

The tour runs daily. January mornings are cool, so bring a light sweater. Also, make sure you dress modestly, with knees and shoulders covered.

If you have any mobility limitations, don’t hesitate to ask for accommodations. Non produced my chair without a moment’s hesitation and without making me feel awkward about it.


Where to Stay in Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai has accommodation from budget to luxury. We stayed at Be Phrasingh Hotel for five nights and then The Rim Chiang Mai on our last night before flying south to Khao Sok.

Both accommodations were excellent. Located in the Old Town, Be Phrasingh Hotel is a modern four-story building on a quiet courtyard. We had a two-bedroom suite that included a private rooftop terrace complete with small jacuzzi and a view over Chiang Mai. Staff were friendly and helpful.

The Rim Chiang Mai was our last-night splurge after touring northern Thailand. Located just outside the Old Town, the place had an old understated charm with attentive staff and attractive public areas.

Here are more options for accommodations in Chiang Mai:


Sunrise Temple Tour FAQs

What temples do you visit on the Amazing Sunrise Tour?

Three: Wat Phra That Doi Suthep (the main sunrise temple on the mountain), Wat Phalat (the hidden jungle temple), and Wat Umong (known for its snake statues)

What is Doi Suthep?

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is Chiang Mai’s most sacred temple, built in the 14th century on the peak of Doi Suthep mountain about 15 kilometers from the city center. It’s considered the spiritual heart of Chiang Mai and one of the most important Buddhist sites in northern Thailand.

Do I need to be physically fit for this tour?

The main choice at Doi Suthep is between climbing 300 stairs or taking the funicular, so no, you don’t need to be particularly fit. Wat Phalat and Wat Umong involve gentle walking on mostly flat ground. I did the tour with a badly sprained wrist and managed comfortably.

What should I wear?

Long pants or a skirt covering the knees, and a top covering the shoulders. Bring a light jacket for the early morning. It can be surprisingly cool, especially in the mountain air.

How much does the tour cost?

1,950 Baht per person (approximately $55 USD at current rates). Groups of 3-9 receive an automatic discount. Everything is included: guide, transport, breakfast, admission fees, and water.

Should I book ahead?

It’s worth booking at least a day or two ahead, particularly in high season, to secure your spot and give the company time to arrange pickup.

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