Carol Cram at the top of the Sea to Sky Gondola near Squamish en route to Whistler

Sea to Sky Highway: The Ultimate Artsy Traveler Getaway from Vancouver

Drive up the Sea to Sky Highway from Vancouver to Squamish and Whistler and you’ll quickly understand why this route is considered one of Canada’s most spectacular.

While many people are in search of outdoor adventure, if you’re looking for a weekend getaway that combines arts and culture with jaw-dropping scenery, you’ll be amply rewarded.

On an artsy traveler weekend trip up the Sea to Sky Highway, you’ll ride a gondola up the side of a mountain, visit three extraordinary museums, create your very own soapstone carving, take a night walk in the woods you won’t quickly forget, and explore Squamish Canyon, the area’s newest attraction.

I first drove up Highway 99 before it was re-branded the Sea to Sky Highway when rock slides were tragically common. In those days, the road often crept past sheer cliffs on one side and sheer drops on the other with not a lot of room for error.

This was the 1970s, and Whistler consisted of little more than a gondola, a handful of chairlifts, and too many black diamond runs for a novice skier like me. Whistler was also party central back then, but the less said about that the better.

Fifty years on, Whistler is a world-class, year-round resort with enough jewelry shops, fancy restaurants, art galleries, and shopping to keep the non-skiing, non-mountain-biking artsy traveler happy for days. Squamish is also holding its own as a mecca for outdoor adventure enthusiasts and nature lovers.

On a sunny weekend in May, I drove up the fabled Sea to Sky Highway to Squamish and Whistler for a two-day getaway with my daughter and frequent travel companion, Julia. Our goal was to experience and then recommend a weekend’s worth of cool things to do for travelers who both love the arts and want to get out in nature.

This post covers exactly what we did, and admittedly it was a lot. An unseasonably sunny weekend in May called for everything we could give it.

If you’re headed to the west coast of Canada, put a drive up the Sea to Sky Highway from Vancouver to Squamish and Whistler on your itinerary, even if you don’t ski or bike or climb mountains.

You’ll find plenty to keep you entertained without ever breaking a sweat.



Sea to Sky and Whistler at a Glance

Location

The Sea to Sky Highway (Highway 99) stretches from West Vancouver along Howe Sound to Squamish and Whistler, and is one of the most dramatic drives in North America. Driving from Vancouver takes about an hour to Squamish and another hour from Squamish to Whistler. About 14,000 people call Whistler home and the resort welcomes around 3 million visitors annually.

Reputation

Whistler Blackcomb is consistently ranked the top ski resort in North America. Whistler and Blackcomb mountains are connected by the PEAK 2 PEAK Gondola, which holds two world records: longest unsupported span and highest point above ground for a gondola.

Squamish has grown to be a premier destination for thrill seekers and outdoor adventure. Attractions such as the Sea to Sky Gondola, Shannon Falls, and the new Squamish Canyon are perfect for visitors looking for tamer but still worthwhile options.

Winter Visits

Winter activities include skiing, snowboarding, snowshoeing, heli-skiing, ice skating, sleigh rides, and the Whistler Sliding Centre, which was built for the 2010 Vancouver Olympics and is the only public luge/bobsled/skeleton track in North America. Ski season lasts from early December to mid-May.

Summer and Shoulder Season Visits

Energetic activities include mountain biking on the trails and in the Whistler Mountain Bike Park, arguably one of the best facilities of its kind in the world, along with hiking, ziplining, whitewater rafting, rock climbing, and golf. Festivals also crowd the calendar, many perfect for the Artsy Traveler such as the Whistler Writers Festival in November.

Squamish Town Centre

Squamish makes a good stop either en route to Whistler or on your way back to Vancouver. The main street is lined with cute shops and some great eateries. Looming high above the town is the famous Stawamous Chief, a massive granite rock face you’ll get a close up view of when you ride the Sea to Sky Gondola.

Whistler Village

Whistler Village is car-free and walkable, with a lively restaurant and bar scene, good shopping, and a very international crowd. Nobody seems to be in a hurry, which is refreshing in a resort town.

Arts & Culture

All three of my suggested arts and culture activities are in Whistler, but you’ll also find things to do in Squamish including the Railway Museum. Also, en route to Squamish from Vancouver, you can make my suggested stop at the Britannia Mine Museum.

The Audain Art Museum in Whistler is worth the trip from Vancouver on its own. Opened in 2016, it holds a significant collection of works by Emily Carr and other BC artists, along with an remarkable collection of Northwest Coast Indigenous art.

The Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre celebrates the two Indigenous nations on whose traditional territory Whistler sits with informative exhibits and guided tours.

Vallea Lumina is a multimedia night walk through old-growth forest created by Montreal studio Moment Factory.

2010 Winter Olympics

Whistler hosted the alpine, Nordic, sliding, and biathlon events. The Olympic legacy is still very visible in the venues, the sliding center, and the infrastructure of the village.


Overview of Our Artsy Traveler Weekend

Here’s how we packed two days full of activities while still finding  time to relax and have an ice cream cone at Cows (a must-do).

We set off from North Vancouver at 9 am, stopping first at the Britannia Mine Museum before continuing to the Sea to Sky Gondola just south of Squamish for breathtaking views and an excellent brunch. We then drove another hour north to Whistler, parked at the Hilton, and set off for an Artsy Traveler afternoon that included a visit to the Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre, a private guided tour of the Audain Art Museum, and a two-hour soapstone carving class at Fathom Stone Art in the lobby of the Whistler Westin.

Dinner at 21 Steps (good value) was followed by visit to Vallea Lumina, a multimedia night walk about fifteen minutes north of Whistler that will have you puffing on the way up and oohing and aahing at the lights on the way down.

Sunday morning brought a leisurely breakfast, a stroll through the village, and a drive to Green Lake for a panorama of Whistler and Blackcomb mountains. Then it was time to head south. En route we stopped at Squamish Canyon, one of the area’s newest attractions that features a walk through rainforest to dramatic viewpoints above churning rapids and the spectacular falls of the Mamquam River.

Following are more detailed descriptions of each phase of our two-day Artsy Traveler weekend away in Whistler.

Here is a map of the first leg of the journey from Britannia Beach to Squamish.

This map was made with Wanderlog, for making itineraries on iOS and Android

Here are the places mentioned in this post that are located in Whistler:

This map was made with Wanderlog, a road trip planner app on iOS and Android

Britannia Mine Museum

When I was young, the hulking, rusting building containing the old Britannia Mine, which was shut in 1974, was an eyesore rising forlornly alongside Highway 99 before it was rebranded the Sea to Sky Highway. I remember feeling sad every time I passed the old place and wondering why it hadn’t been torn down.

The Britannia Mine Museum was established in 1975, but it wasn’t until quite recently that it became the spruced-up, multimedia experience it is today.

Start in the museum with the short film about the history of mining at Britannia. I particularly enjoyed the old footage from the heyday of the mine in the 1930s and 1940s when hundreds of workers with their families lived in the area.

My mother grew up in Trail, BC, a mining town in the interior of British Columbia, during the 1930s when much of the footage was shot. It made me nostalgic for her stories.

The film also addresses the environmental toll of mining and shares information about the successful clean-up efforts undertaken in recent years.

You can take the Underground Experience tour inside the old mill, where you’ll don a hardhat, ride a train, and learn more about mining operations. Julia has taken the tour a few times and reports that it is worthwhile. On our Artsy Traveler weekend to Whistler, we had time only for the museum, but we’ll be back. I’ve always wanted to take the tour.

Britannia Mine Practical Information

  • Britannia Mine Museum is located at 150 Copper Drive, Britannia Beach, BC. You drive right past it on the Sea to Sky Highway (it’s impossible to miss).
  • Open daily, 9:00 am to 4:30 pm.
  • Admission (plus GST): Adult (18+) $42.95, Youth (13-17) $32.95, Child (5-12) $24.95, Child under 5 free, Senior (65+) $36.95.
  • Reservations are highly recommended: book online up to 12 hours prior to arrival: britanniamine.ca
  • For same-day bookings call 604.896.2233.
  • Allow 1.5 to 3 hours for your visit. Parking is free.

Britannia Mine Museum, Highway 99, Britannia Beach.


Sea to Sky Gondola

Just south of the town of Squamish, the Sea to Sky Gondola sweeps you straight up the side of the mountain in an eight-person cabin, revealing one of the most spectacular views in British Columbia (which is saying something).

Below you, Howe Sound sparkles bright blue in the sunlight while to the north, snow-capped peaks march across the horizon.

View from the Sea to Sky Gondola of Howe Sound and the Sea to Sky Highway

To your left as you ride up the gondola rises the Stawamus Chief, one of the largest granite monoliths in the world and a mecca for people who enjoy dangling from ropes over sheer drops. I’ve done a bit of rock climbing in my day, but the Chief will forever be beyond my wildest dreams.

At the top, the restaurant terrace boasts incredible views. We ate an excellent breakfast sandwich before heading out to explore. A suspension bridge wobbles across a small canyon to a short forest loop trail. More ambitious trails are available for serious hikers.

The gondola is pricey at around $80 per person, but on a clear day it delivers a worthwhile experience. Book online in advance for a modest discount and to guarantee your spot on busy weekends.

Sea to Sky Gondola Practical Information

  • The gondola is located at 36800 Highway 99, just 2 km south of Squamish, about an hour’s drive from downtown Vancouver.
  • The Sea to Sky Gondola operates year-round, open from 9:00 am to 5:00 pm daily. Check the website for seasonal variations before you visit: seatoskygondola.com.
  • Admission prices vary by season; book online in advance to save and to guarantee your spot, particularly on weekends and sunny days when it fills up quickly.
  • Each gondola run has limited capacity, so booking ahead means you walk straight on rather than waiting in line.
  • Paid parking is available at the basecamp.
  • The gondola is wheelchair accessible.

I’ll leave you with the vertiginous view from the gondola as it descends back to the valley.

Guided Tour from Vancouver

If you’re visiting Vancouver and don’t have a car, here’s a day trip from Vancouver with GetYourGuide that includes the Sea to Sky Gondola and a visit to spectacular Shannon Falls right next door.

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Squamish Lil’Wat Cultural Centre

Our first stop after arriving in Whistler and checking in to the Hilton, was to stroll out of the village to the Squamish Lil’Wat Culture Centre. I’ve visited here a few times, and always enjoy the soaring main hall, the informative displays, and the friendly guides.

Main hall at the Squamish Lil-wat cultural centre in Whistler, BC. contains totel poles and large canoes.

Whistler sits on the shared traditional territory of two Indigenous nations: the Squamish, a Coastal Salish people, and the Lil’wat, a mountain community from the Interior. The two nations have coexisted peacefully for thousands of years, passing their cultures forward through generations of storytellers.

The Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre, which opened in 2008, is their joint gift to visitors, and an invitation to see Whistler through an Indigenous lens.

The building is designed to blend a traditional Squamish longhouse with a Lil’wat Istken pit house. Admire canoes, totem poles, basketwork, and other traditional crafts.

Don’t miss the large wooden discs, called spindle whorls, mounted above the entrance way. These represent the Squamish and Lil’wat Nations.

Traditionally, a spindle whorl was used by both nations to spin mountain goal wool for weaving. Their placement at the entrance to the Centre symbolizes the partnership of the two Nations and celebrates the ancient art of weaving and the importance of preserving traditional crafts.

Outside the main museum, you can explore a traditional Squamish longhouse and a Lil’wat pit house, and in summer take the Salish Forest Walk.

The Thunderbird Café serves Indigenous-inspired food with a modern twist: bannock salmon paninis and venison bannock tacos are among the offerings worth trying. If you’ve never tasted bannock, I highly recommend it.

Guided tours are offered on the hour, and are well worth your time. I took one on a previous trip and learned a lot about the two Nations.

Here is one of my favorite displays at the Centre that pictures people from both Nations.

Display showing people dressed in the traditional clothing of the Squamnish nation to the left and the Lil'Wat nation to the right.

Another highlight is the gift shop that carries authentic First Nations art, jewelry, and crafts.

Squamish Lil’wat Culture Centre Practical Information

  • Located at 4584 Blackcomb Way, a short walk from Whistler Village.
  • Open Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00 am to 5:00 pm in the slow season, and daily from 9:30 am to 5:00 pm in summer.
  • Adult admission is $25. The price is the same for seniors and students. Children ages 6 to 18 are $12.
  • Admission includes a Signature Guided Tour, a Forest Walk, and full access to all exhibits. Guided tours run hourly from 10:00 am, with the last tour at 4:00 pm.
  • Check Whistler. slcc.ca for more information.

The Audain Art Museum

The Audain Art Museum is reason enough on its own to make the trip to Whistler. Housed in a striking building by architect John Patkau that seems to float above the forest floor on steel columns, it holds one of the finest collections of BC art anywhere.

I was fortunate to enjoy a private tour of the collection with Elyse Feaver, the museum’s Engagement Manager. What follows are the highlights.

For a more in depth look, check out my dedicated post on the Audain Art Museum.

The Haida Dance Screen

You begin in the room housing founder Michael Audain’s extraordinary collection of Haida art. The centerpiece is an enormous dance screen that Audain originally commissioned for his boathouse.

Master carver Jim Hart’s vision outgrew the brief entirely, so when Audain decided to build his museum in Whistler, he made the screen its heart.

Jim Hart worked on the screen for three years alongside four other carvers, including his own son.

Eagle, bear, orca, and salmon representing sky, land, sea and river are each featured in a single composition.

At the center, a hidden doorway opens to allow dancers to pass through, thereby stepping symbolically from the spirit world into ours. When the museum opened in 2016, Haida dancers emerged through that doorway to perform.

The Mask Collection

The collection of Northwest Coast Indigenous masks, some 200 to 250 years old, rewards serious lingering and careful looking.

The craftsmanship, history and spiritual significance of these masks to the people who made them are a permanent reminder of the contribution to world art made by BC First Nations people.

Many of the masks have been acquired from private collections around the world and brought back to BC permanently.

Elyse’s favorite piece is a headdress rather than a mask. She pointed out the ermine pelts around the base that were caught in winter when the fur turns white, the most prized color. The abalone shell on the front was traded up from California.

At the top, sea lion whiskers rise in a crown. When worn, the inside of the headdress would have been filled with eagle feathers that floated out as the chief moved and were a symbol of peace.

The Emily Carr Collection

The Audain Art Museum holds the largest permanent public display of Emily Carr works anywhere. You’ll find more in one room than you will typically see at the Vancouver Art Gallery.

Carr’s works on paper were painted on brown paper bags with gasoline-thinned paint.

For me, Emily Carr is one of the few artists who managed to capture the brooding essence of the west coast rainforest, particularly on a rainy winter day when mists rise and water drips from every cedar bough.

You could spend a lot of time just in the Emily Carr room. Here are two that really stood out for me. On the left is Forest Light painted in 1931 and on the right is Survival painted in 1940.

Other Highlights of the Collection

Other notable works include pieces by EJ Hughes, Frederick Varley, Jack Shadbolt, Gordon Smith, and Lawren Harris.

Here’s one of his works from his later period when his paintings became more abstract. It’s the period that I like best. Called Abstraction 119, the work was painted in 1945.

Abstraction 199 by Lawren Harris featured at the Audain Art Museum in Whistler, BC

Another highlight for me was the large, detailed aerial photograph of the Black Tusk by Edward Burtynsky. The tusk is a volcanic plug that slices the sky in nearby Garibaldi Park, which is also accessible from the Sea to Sky Highway

I had to tell Elyse how, way back in my considerably more energetic youth, I climbed it. The tiny figures of climbers visible in the photograph give a vertiginous sense of its scale.

You’ll also see some contemporary works by BC artists.

For me, the most interesting is a remarkable piece by Brian Jungen made from unstitched and restitched golf bags and arranged in two vertical sculptures. Faces emerge from the seams like figures on a totem pole. The piece offers commentary on Indigenous land swallowed by golf courses.

An art work consisting of two totem-like pillars made from golf bags and titled "golf bags, cardboard tubes" by Brian Jungen at the Audain Art Museum in Whistler, BC

The Audain Museum deserves to be much more widely known for what really is a world-class collection of Indigenous and BC art.

Audain Art Museum Practical Information

  • Located at 4350 Blackcomb Way, just a short walk from Whistler Village.
  • Open Thursday to Monday from 11:00 am to 6:00 pm, and closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Check the website before visiting on statutory holidays as hours may vary: www.audainartmuseum.com.
  • Children 18 and under are free.
  • Adult admission prices are listed on the museum website; check audainartmuseum.com for current rates as these change periodically.
  • Allow about two hours to tour the permanent collection. Backpacks are not permitted inside the galleries; lockers are provided.

Soapstone Carving Class at Fathom Stone Art

I wanted to include a hands-on creative experience in our Artsy Traveler Sea to Sky getaway and so I connected with Fathom Stone Art and booked a two-hour session to make a soapstone carving.

John Fathom, owner of Fathom Stone Art and a master carver himself, greeted us warmly at his shop in the lobby of the Whistler Westin.

Outside the shop, tables are set up with the tools of the trade: files, rasps, drills, and sandpaper along with blocks of soapstone waiting to become someone’s new treasure.

Both children and adults are welcome.

John explained that on the hardness scale diamond is the hardest at 10 and soapstone is the softest at 1. Within minutes of picking up my block and starting to file, I discovered exactly what that meant. Soapstone yields surprisingly quickly to the tools. The challenge isn’t the material. It’s the vision.

I quickly discovered that carving a chunk of soapstone into something recognizable was both difficult and rewarding. For two solid hours I barely moved, so intent was I on turning my little block into a bear. Did I succeed? You be the judge.

Julia carved an orca that she decided looked more like a salmon. We both very much enjoyed the challenge of working with soapstone. For more about our experience, check out my dedicated post about Fathom Stone Art.

Even if carving isn’t your thing, visit Fathom Stone’s gallery to browse a stunning collection of finished sculptures in soapstone, jade, serpentine, and argillite.

Fathom Stone Art Practical Information

  • Fathom Stone Art is located in the lobby of the Westin Whistler at 4090 Whistler Way.
  • Instructors guide you step by step as you choose your BC soapstone, sketch your design, carve, sand, and polish your piece.
  • Classes run by appointment from 9:00 am to 7:00 pm daily.
  • To book call (604) 962-7722, email gallery@fathomstone.com or book online at www.fathomstone.com

For a more in-depth description of my experience at Fathom Stone Art, check my post Fathom Stone Art: A Unique Hands-On Experience in Whistler.


Vallea Lumina

Drive fifteen minutes north of Whistler, or book the shuttle, to embark on a nighttime walk in the woods with a twist.

Billed as a multimedia night walk in pursuit of hidden wonders, Vallea Lumina is an immersive experience through old-growth forest that combines dramatic lighting effects and soundscapes with interactive storytelling.

Vallea Lumina runs year-round starting after sunset, so start times vary considerably by season.

I visited in early May, the start of the summer season when the walk is much longer than in winter, and, I’ll be honest, quite the hike.

The trails are lit only by widely spaced, low-to-the-ground lights, so watch your step. There are more stairs on the way up than I bargained for, and some very nifty sound and light effects toward the end of the hour-long walk.

Should you go?

Honestly? Maybe.

I don’t recommend the experience if you’re not prepared to, able to, or want to climb a lot of stairs, walk in the dark (flashlights are not allowed), and see a fair number of flashing lights synced with music from speakers tied high in the trees.

If you aren’t deterred by an energetic nighttime walk (at least in summer when the course is longer), the illuminations towards the end of the walk are stunning. The word “magical” is used to describe the experience, and while I’m not sure I’d go that far, the lights are certainly beautifully staged.

Book tickets in advance, especially on weekends. The shuttle from Whistler Village is a better option than driving because parking is limited.

Vallea Lumina Practical Information

  • Vallea Lumina runs year-round and starts after sunset. In summer, the first tour can start as late as 10:00 pm.
  • The summer course runs May to October, covers 1.5 km, and takes approximately 45 to 60 minutes. Tickets for the summer show are between $50 and $60 for adults and youth respectively.
  • Children under 5 are free.
  • Book non-refundable tickets in advance online: www.vallea-lumina.com
  • A complimentary shuttle runs between Whistler Village Gateway Bus Loop and the Cougar Mountain basecamp.
  • Wear closed-toe shoes and dress for the weather. No flashlights or umbrellas are permitted.

Sunday Morning Brunch and Stroll

We took our time getting going on Sunday morning, opting for a leisurely stroll through Whistler Village and brunch at Lorette. The food was tasty and plentiful, although I was amused by the complaints of the guy next to me about his soggy waffle, so maybe don’t order that. My scrambled eggs on avocado toast were delicious.

Whistler Village on a Sunday morning is a pleasure with plenty of places to eat, good shopping, and a laid back vibe. Nobody seems to be in a hurry to get anywhere, which is perhaps not surprising in a resort town, but it is refreshing.

I also made a new friend.


Green Lake Viewpoint

After checking out of the Hilton Whistler Resort & Spa, we drove a short distance up the highway to take in the panorama of Whistler and Blackcomb mountains from the Green Lake viewpoint.

I’ve visited Whistler many times over the years, almost always in rain or snow. On a clear day in early May with snow still on the peaks, the vista sparkled.


Squamish Canyon

The newest attraction on the Sea to Sky is Squamish Canyon, located just south of Squamish not far from the Sea to Sky Gondola.

This place is a keeper.

Cleverly designed, environmentally friendly wooden walkways lead you down, down, down to the very edge of the Mamquam River, where the canyon narrows and the falls churn.

Along the way, interpretive signs explain the rainforest ecosystem and the geology of the canyon. Every bend in the boardwalk reveals a new angle on the water, the rock, and the ancient trees.

The entrance fee is $40 per person, which is not cheap for a walk in the woods, but this is no ordinary walk. The infrastructure is beautifully done, the environmental storytelling is thoughtful, and the views of the rushing river justify the climb down and back up.

One honest caveat: if stairs are not your thing, you’ll need to give Squamish Canyon a hard pass. The boardwalk involves a significant number of steps both down and up. Fortunately, the risers are low and manageable for most reasonably fit visitors.

Book tickets online in advance for a modest discount.

Squamish Canyon Practical Information

  • Squamish Canyon is open daily year-round. Hours from April to June are 9:00 am to 4:00 pm with last entry at 3:00 pm.
  • From July and August hours extend to 9:00 am to 6:00 pm with last entry at 5:00 pm.
  • Adult tickets are approximately $34 per person. Parking is free.
  • The boardwalk includes approximately 80 steps and is not wheelchair accessible and strollers are not recommended.
  • You can purchase tickets online in advance or at the kiosk on arrival. www.squamishcanyon.com
  • The access road is gravel so drive slowly. From Highway 99, turn onto Mamquam Forest Service Road and follow signs.


Where to Stay in Whistler

Finding the right home base is key to enjoying everything Whistler has to offer. Whether you want to be steps from the gondolas in the heart of the Village or prefer the quieter, mountain-lodge feel of Upper Village, there is a perfect spot for every traveler.

Don’t expect budget lodgings in Whistler. Prices are steep. You’ll find several world-class luxury resorts, cozy boutique hotels, and suites in apartment complexes.

Here are three of the places I’ve stayed in Whistler and can recommend.

Hilton Whistler Resort & Spa

 On this Artsy Traveler weekend, Julia and I stayed in a double room at the Hilton Whistler Resort & Spa. Its location right next to the Whistler gondola is very convenient for exploring the village.

Rooms are comfortable and staff friendly and efficient. When I needed a bath plug at 10:30 pm, a cheerful young Aussie appeared at my door ten minutes after I called the front desk, new plug in hand.

Delta Hotels by Marriott Whistler Village Suites

I’ve stayed a few times at the Whistler Delta and appreciate their spacious suites and excellent restaurant. Its location in the center of the village is even more convenient than the Hilton.

Sundial Hotel

I love the suites at the Sundial Hotel, and once stayed in one during the off season in November for several days to work on one of my novels. Like the Hilton, it’s just steps from the Whistler Village Gondola and all the shops.

Here are some more options for places to stay in Whistler:


Where to Eat in Whistler

Whistler has become a mecca for foodies with many high end restaurants. For a good meal that won’t break your wallet too much, I recommend 21 Steps and the Brickworks Public House. I’ve enjoyed excellent meals at both.

If you’re a gin lover, the Brickworks Public House should be your first choice. They have a huge selection of gins, which isn’t a selling point for me. Fortunately, their food is also excellent with prices similar to 21 Steps.


Tours in Whistler

Whistler is a major international resort and as such has tours available for both winter and summer activities. Here are three tours appropriate for the summer months. The bear tour in particular looks amazing.

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Whistler: Know Before You Go

To make your trip to as smooth as possible, keep these practical tips in mind:

  • Walkable Village: Once you arrive, you likely won’t need a car. The Village Stroll is a pedestrian-only center, making it easy to walk between your hotel, favorite restaurants, and the gondolas.
  • Parking Tips: If you do drive, the Whistler Village Day Lots (Lots 1–5) are convenient for day trips. Keep in mind that overnight parking is prohibited in these lots during the winter months (November to March) to allow for snow clearing. You’ll likely need pay extra to park at your hotel.
  • Seasonal Gear: If you’re driving up in the winter, you are required by law to equip your car with winter tires or chains from October through March.
  • Reserve in Advance: Whistler is a popular spot year-round. To secure your preferred dates at top-tier hotels or a table at the best restaurants, book several months in advance, especially for the peak winter and summer seasons.
  • Wildlife Awareness: You are in bear country! Always maintain a safe distance (about 100 meters) from a bear, and never leave food in your vehicle.

Whistler FAQs

Do I need a car in Whistler?

Not necessarily. Whistler Village is a pedestrian-only center, and most major attractions are within walking distance. For longer trips, you can use the Whistler Village Shuttles or the Valley Trail system.

What is the best way to get from Vancouver to Whistler?

The drive takes about two to two and a half hours along the scenic Sea to Sky Highway. If you prefer not to drive, shuttle services run regularly from Vancouver International Airport (YVR) and downtown Vancouver.

What should I wear?

Whistler is very casual. Even at upscale restaurants, “smart-casual” is the norm. The most important thing is to dress in layers, as mountain weather can change quickly even in summer.

Is Whistler expensive?

Yes, particularly in high season. Expect to pay about $300 a night minimum for a comfortable hotel. You won’t find many budget options in Whistler.


Conclusion

Whistler is much more than just a world-class resort; it is a place where modern adventure and deep-rooted heritage live side by side.

Adrenaline junkies, nature enthusiasts, and art lovers can all find plenty to keep them occupied for a weekend or a week.

I like to lean into the cultural side of Whistler at both the Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Center and the Audain Art Museum while also reveling in the stunning natural beauty.

Top off your time in Whistler with a gourmet meal following by an ice cream cone and an evening stroll through the village, and you’ll see why people from all over the world have made Whistler a premier BC destination.

Keep Exploring Canada with Artsy Traveler

Fathom Stone Art: A Unique Hands-On Experience in Whistler

Whistler, BC, has so much to offer outdoor enthusiasts, but did you know you can also indulge your artsy side? Take a class at Fathom Stone Art and learn how to carve soapstone, a substance I found myself falling in love with.

On a recent Sea to Sky getaway to Whistler, I wanted to include a hands-on creative experience in our busy weekend, so I connected with Fathom Stone Art and booked a soapstone carving class for my daughter Julia and me.

It turned out to be one of the most absorbing two hours of the entire weekend.

Full Disclosure: I was given a free class in exchange for an honest review.



Finding Fathom Stone

Fathom Stone Art is located in the lobby of the Whistler Westin, one of Whistler’s many upscale hotels.

John Fathom, the owner and a master carver himself, has created a welcoming space that feels both professional and approachable. Outside the shop, tables are set up with the tools of the trade: files, rasps, drills, and sandpaper, along with blocks of soapstone in various sizes waiting to become someone’s next treasure.

Both children and adults are welcome. During my visit, several children were busy at the next table. John told me that it’s about a 60/40 split between adults and children (the 60 being adults). He also mentioned that children are great fun to work with since they are fearless. Adults are often too worried they’ll make a mistake.

I could relate! At first, I felt daunted by the block of soapstone I’d chosen. How could I even start? I’m not Michelangelo; I’m not even Italian.


Why Soapstone?

John explained that on the hardness scale, diamond is the hardest at 10 and soapstone is the softest at 1.

Within minutes of picking up my block and starting to file, I discovered exactly what that meant. Soapstone yields surprisingly quickly to the tools.

After several minutes of filing, I began to see that transforming my block into a bear might just be possible.

Choosing What to Carve

Because we were short on time, we chose the mini sculpture class in which we’d create (or try to) a small fish, animal, or abstract form in about two hours.

Longer classes (up to four hours and more) are also available. If you have the time, I recommend taking a longer class and carving something larger than a mini.

Guests who take longer classes can return to work on their project over multiple sessions. This is a great option if you’re staying in Whistler for several days. Fathom Stone Art is open late so you can ski all day and carve in the late afternoon.

John told me that during the busy ski season in the winter, the classes are full to bursting.

Several finished carvings are available to help you decide what to make. I decided to carve a bear, which as it turned out was a bit ambitious but definitely worthwhile.

Julia chose an orca that later became a salmon.


Carving Soapstone

After you’ve chosen what you want to carve, John and one other instructor guides you through the process of sketching your design and then working through the stages of carving, sanding, and polishing.

Their guidance is patient and practical without being prescriptive. They don’t do the carving for you, although occasionally I found myself hoping John would just pick up my little bear and turn it into a piece of art.

But no, the carving is all mine, which of course is the point. Here’s Julia working hard on her orca/salmon:

Julia working on the orca/salmon at Fathom Stone Art in Whistler, BC

I was riveted for the entire two hours. I actually can’t remember being so absorbed with a hands-on activity. I barely looked up from my little bear so intent was I on filing and carving.

At one point, John handed over a box full of power tools which I found really fun to work with.

Unfortunately, I got a bit too enthusiastic with one of the tools and sliced off my bear’s snout. Oh no!

But John just said “there’s no crying in soapstone carving” and quickly glued the snout back on so perfectly that no crack is visible.

When we were finished and I was lining up the salmon and bear for a photo shoot, I accidentally dropped Julia’s salmon on the tile floor, breaking off the tail.

Again I heard no crying in soapstone carving and moments later the salmon’s tail was glued back on and all was well.


The Results

So, did I succeed in turning my block of soapstone into something resembling a bear?

Maybe not, but I love him. He will stand guard on my desk, reminding me daily of a very enjoyable two-hour experience.

A soapstone carving of a bear created during a class  at Fathom Stone Art in Whistler, BC

Even if carving is not your thing, the Fathom Stone Art gallery is worth a visit. The stunning collection of finished sculptures in soapstone, jade, serpentine, and argillite will make you wish for a larger bank account, although some of the smaller pieces are affordable.

Work by several very accomplished First Nations and local artists is featured. You’ll find animal sculptures and abstract pieces (my favorites).

View of the gallery of beautiful carvings at Fathom Stone Art in Whistler, BC


Practical Information

Fathom Stone Art is located in the lobby of the Westin Whistler at 4090 Whistler Way, Whistler BC.

Instructors guide you step by step as you choose your BC soapstone, sketch your design, carve, sand, and polish your piece. Classes run by appointment from 9:00 am to 7:00 pm daily.

Here’s the pricing line to add to the Practical Information section:


Fathom Stone Art offers classes at several price points to suit different budgets and time commitments:

  • Pendant carving class (1 hour, ages 5 and up) is $75 per person.
  • Mini carving class (2 hours) is the one I took with Julia and costs $100.
  • Small sculpture class (3 hours, ages 8 and up) is $200 per person
  • Medium sculpture (4 to 6 hours, ages 10 and up) is $300 per person
  • Large sculpture (6 or more hours, ages 14 and up) is $400 per person. Larger sculpture classes can be completed over multiple sessions.

Check www.fathomstone.com for current pricing as rates may change.

To book, call (604) 962-7722, email gallery@fathomstone.com, or book online at fathomstone.com.


Fathom Stone Art FAQs

Where is Fathom Stone Art in Whistler?

Fathom Stone Art is located in the lobby of the Westin Whistler at 4090 Whistler Way, a short walk from Whistler Village.

How long does a soapstone carving class at Fathom Stone Art take?

Classes run for two to four hours, depending on the size of carving you decide to make. That sounds like plenty of time but once you get started, the time goes fast. I could have easily spent a third hour working on my little bear. Guests who choose to create larger pieces can work on them over multiple sessions.

Do I need any experience to take a soapstone carving class?

No experience is needed. Instructors guide you through every step of the process, from choosing your stone and sketching your design to carving, sanding, and polishing your finished piece.

Is soapstone carving suitable for children?

Yes. Both children and adults are welcome at Fathom Stone Art. It is an excellent family-friendly activity.

What can I make in a soapstone carving class?

You choose your own design. Animals are popular, particularly bears, orcas, and Inukshuk. Your instructor will help you find a design that is achievable in two hours.

How hard is soapstone to carve?

Soapstone rates 1 on the Mohs hardness scale, making it the softest natural carving material available. It yields quickly to files and rasps, which means you can see your design taking shape almost immediately.

What do I take home from a soapstone carving class?

You take home the piece you carve, sanded and polished to a smooth finish. It makes a meaningful souvenir since you made it yourself from BC stone.

How do I book a soapstone carving class at Fathom Stone Art?

Classes run by appointment from 9:00 am to 7:00 pm daily. To book, call (604) 962-7722, email gallery@fathomstone.com, or book online at fathomstone.com.

Is there a gallery at Fathom Stone Art?

Yes. The Fathom Stone gallery features a collection of finished sculptures in soapstone, jade, serpentine, and argillite by accomplished First Nations and local artists, ranging from small affordable pieces to significant works.


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Carol Cram next to a cylindrical First Nations sculpture outside the Audain Art Museum in Whistler, BC

Why the Audain Art Museum is Whistler’s Best Kept Secret

The Audain Art Museum is reason enough on its own to make a trip to Whistler.

It was certainly first on my list of must-sees on a trip up the Sea to Sky Highway on a sunny weekend in May. With ski season winding down and the summer season about to start, May is a great time to put art at the center of a Whistler weekend.

I was fortunate to enjoy a private tour of the collection with Elyse Feaver, the museum’s Engagement Manager. Her enthusiasm and in-depth knowledge of the work on display added considerably to my appreciation of the Audain Art Museum.

Tip: If a guided tour is being offered during your visit, take it. You’ll learn a lot and come away with a deeper understanding of one of the finest collections of BC art in the province.

In this post, I share some of the many highlights of the permanent collection. When you go, check if a special exhibition is on. During my visit, preparations were underway to launch a special exhibition of the work of Takao Tanabe.



Audain Art Museum Quick Facts

  • Location: 4350 Blackcomb Way, Whistler, BC (short walk from Whistler Village)
  • Hours: Thursday to Monday, 11:00 am to 6:00 pm. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday. Hours may vary on statutory holidays; check the website before visiting.
  • Admission: Children 18 and under free. Adult prices vary; check www.audainartmuseum.com for current rates.
  • How long to allow: Minimum two hours for the permanent collection. More if a special exhibition is on.
  • Guided tours: Public Guided tours are available on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays and are included with the cost of admission. Book a private guided tour of the Audain Art Museum in advance.
  • Accessibility: Wheelchair accessible via the Blackcomb Way street-level entrance. Wheelchairs available on request.
  • Backpacks: Not permitted in the galleries. Lockers provided at the entrance.
  • Website: www.audainartmuseum.com
Exterior of the Audain Art Museum in Whistler, BC

Arriving at the Audain Art Museum

Located a few minutes’ walk from Whistler Village, the Audain Art Museum is housed in a striking building by Patkau Architects that seems to float above the forest floor on steel columns.

The museum was opened in 2016 to showcase the stunning collection of BC art owned by Michael Audain. Over 200 works of art, some dating back to the 18th century are on display.

At the entrance, stop to admire the large sculpture.


The First Nations Collection

The first large room you enter at the museum features an extraordinary collection of masks with the Haida Dance Screen as the centerpiece.

You’ll want to spend a lot of time in this room, walking from mask to mask and admiring the magnificent dance screen.

The Haida Dance Screen: Where the Spirit World Meets Ours

James Hart (Haida Chief 7idansuu) worked on The Dance Screen (The Scream Too) for three years alongside four other carvers, including his own son. Eagle, bear, orca, and salmon, representing sky, land, sea, and river, are each featured in a single composition.

At the center, a hidden doorway opens to allow dancers to pass through, stepping symbolically from the spirit world into ours. When the museum opened in 2016, Haida dancers emerged through that doorway to perform.

Haida Dance screen by James Hart at the Audain Art Museum in Whistler, BC

Elyse explained that this is a dance screen, like a stage or a curtain for the storytelling to begin. Hart’s lineage as an artist traces back to Charles Edenshaw, whose works are held in the Art Gallery of Ontario and other major institutions. The passing of knowledge from generation to generation is built into the piece itself.

Air, land, and sea: the whole world is represented in one carving.

The Mask Collection: 250 Years of Ceremony

The collection of Northwest Coast Indigenous masks, some 200 to 250 years old, rewards serious lingering and careful looking.

The craftsmanship, history, and spiritual significance of these masks to the people who made them are a permanent reminder of the contribution to world art made by BC First Nations people.

Many of the masks have been acquired from private collections around the world and brought back to BC permanently.

I asked Elyse what her favorite piece is and she led me to a piece that is a headdress rather than a mask from the Tlingit Nation that dates from 1840.

She pointed out the ermine pelts around the base. These were caught in winter when the fur turns white, which is the most prized color. The abalone shell on the front was traded up from California. At the top, sea lion whiskers rise in a crown. When worn, the inside of the headdress would have been filled with eagle feathers that floated out as the chief moved, a symbol of peace.

Haida headress with ermine pelts, abalone and sea whiskers with a carving of a bear head at Audain Art Museum in Whistler, BC

Other masks in the room span nations and styles. Several feature articulating pieces designed to open and close as the dancer moved.

One prompted both of us to remark on how Asian it appeared. The art of the Northwest Coast did not develop in isolation, and the visual echoes across the Pacific should not be surprising.


Emily Carr: The Largest Permanent Display Anywhere

The Audain Art Museum holds the largest permanent public display of Emily Carr works anywhere. You’ll find more in one room than you will typically see at the Vancouver Art Gallery.

Carr’s works on paper were painted on brown paper bags with gasoline-thinned paint.

For me, Emily Carr is one of the few artists who managed to capture the brooding essence of the west coast rainforest, particularly on a rainy winter day when mists rise and water drips from every cedar bough.

The forest paintings she made in her final years look exactly like what I see from my window on Bowen Island on a grey November morning.

You could spend a lot of time just in the Emily Carr room. Two works that really stood out for me: Forest Light, painted in 1931, and Survival, painted in 1940.

What the collection does particularly well is show the full arc of Carr’s development. In the 1920s, when she moved toward Impressionism, she became unpopular and her confidence faltered. She turned to other activities, including teaching, raising animals, and running a boarding house.

Then the Group of Seven discovered her, Lawren Harris, in particular, encouraged her which I was pleased to hear since Lawren Harris is my favorite Group of Seven Artist. Apparently, Harris told her she was one of them, and she came back to painting with renewed confidence.

The influence is visible in the geometric, dramatically lit forest compositions of her mature period.


Other Highlights of the Collection

The spacious rooms of the Audain Art Museum hold a great many notable works. Here are some that stood out for me.

Taylor Bay, Gabriola Island, BC, 1952 by Edward John (E. J. Hughes)

As someone who lives on an island off the west coast of British Columbia, I found this painting of Gabriola Island resonated. E. J. Hughes captures the way the clouds can suddenly part on a dull day to reveal a swathe of blue and flood the marine scene with warmth and lights. This painting captures that moment.

Taylor Bay, Gabriola Island, BC by E. J. Hughes at the Audain Art Museum in Whistler, BC

Winterscape, 1991, by Gordon Smith

This large abstract was apparently the artist’s favorite and once hung in Audain’s dining room. It is a spectacular piece that captures the white and gray, black and brown messiness of a winter day on the west coast.

Winterscape by Gordon Smith, a large abstract featured at the Audain Art Museum in Whistler, BC

Comment on Horseshoe Bay, 1949 by Bertram Charles (B. C.) Binning

This piece by B. C. Binning caught my eye. I am often in Horseshoe Bay in West Vancouver to catch the ferry to Bowen Island. Binning captures something of the marine chaos of a narrow bay in which three ferries come and go.

Comment on Horseshoe by B. C. Binning at the Audain Art Museum in Whistler, BC

Abstraction 119, 1945 by Lawren Harris

I was delighted to see that the collection included a work from Harris’s later, more abstract period. He’s known for his landscapes, which are wonderful, but for me, it’s these metaphysical abstracts that capture the essence of modernism.

Abstraction 119 by Lawren Harris at the Audain Art Museum in Whistler, BC

Coast Mountains #3, The Black Tusk, British Columbia, 2023, 2024 by Edward Burtynsky

Another highlight for me was this large aerial photograph of Black Tusk. The tusk is a volcanic plug that slices the sky in nearby Garibaldi Provincial Park, also accessible from the Sea to Sky Highway. The tiny figures of climbers visible in the photograph give a vertiginous sense of its scale.

I had to tell Elyse how, way back in my considerably more energetic youth, I climbed the tusk on a hot day in July and got a terrible sunburn (sunscreen being something we rarely used in those days).

Photograph of Black Tusk by Edward Burtynsky at the Audain Art Museum in Whistler, BC

First Nations Sculptures and Masks

Throughout all the galleries, several sculptures by First Nations artists are featured. This bronze sculpture with jade green patina by celebrated Haida artist Bill Reid depicts Sghaana Jaad, a supernatural female figure from Haida mythology.

Reid (1920-1998) is one of Canada’s most important First Nations artists, best known for The Spirit of Haida Gwaii, versions of which stand at the Canadian Embassy in Washington DC and at Vancouver International Airport.

Contemporary Works

The collection includes several rooms featuring works by contemporary artists, many of which are photo-based.

One standout for me is a remarkable piece by Brian Jungen, made from unstitched and restitched golf bags arranged in two vertical sculptures. Faces emerge from the seams like figures on a totem pole, a commentary on how Indigenous land is being swallowed by golf courses.

Totems by Brian Jungen at Audain Art Museum

Why Visit the Audain Art Museum

The museum reminds me of many of the smaller museums I’ve visited in Europe such as the Fondation Maeght near Nice and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection in Venice. In fact, Audain visited many of these museums in Europe as he was developing the concept for his museum in Whistler.

Like those European gems, the Audain is not trying to be encyclopedic. The museum presents one person’s collection that reflects his preferences in airy, uncluttered spaces that give each piece its due.

Both the building itself and its world-class collection of Indigenous and BC art are well worth an hour or two of your time. Do yourself a favor and go.


Audain Art Museum FAQs

Is the Audain Art Museum worth visiting in Whistler?

Yes. The Audain holds a world-class collection of BC art including Northwest Coast Indigenous masks and ceremonial objects, the largest permanent display of Emily Carr works anywhere, and significant works by EJ Hughes, Lawren Harris, and other major BC artists. It is worth a trip to Whistler on its own merits.

Are guided tours available at the Audain Art Museum?

Yes. Public guided tours are offered on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays and are included with the cost of admission. Private guided tours can be booked in advance through the museum website.

When is the Audain Art Museum Open?

The museum is open Thursday to Monday from 11:00 am to 6:00 pm and is closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Hours may vary on statutory holidays so check the website before visiting.

How do I get to the Audain Art Museum from Whistler Village?

The museum is a short walk from Whistler Village along the Valley Trail at 4350 Blackcomb Way. Free parking is available on site if you are driving.

Does the Audain Art Museum have a gift shop?

Yes. A small gift shop in the lobby features work by local BC artists, including some lovely pieces of First Nations jewelry


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