Colorful historic buildings and boats along Nyhavn harbor in Copenhagen, Denmark
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Visiting Denmark: My Best Tips for Artsy & Independent Travelers

I'm Carol Cram, novelist and arts travel writer, and founder of Art In Fiction, a curated database of 2,700+ novels inspired by the arts. Artsy Traveler contains affiliate links for products and services I personally use and recommend. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Please read the Disclosure for more information.

If I were thirty years younger, I’d seriously consider living in Denmark. It’s just so, I don’t know, Danish.

Denmark delivers on every front for artsy and independent travelers: intriguing museums, a laid-back vibe, excellent food, and people who speak flawless Englishโ€”at least the ones I met did.

Travel in Denmark is especially rewarding for those who value good design, cultural experiences, music, and highly walkable cities. So far, my travels in Denmark have focused on the Copenhagen Capital Region, but this compact and efficiently run country offers plenty more to explore.

Itโ€™s also worth saying upfront that Denmark is not an inexpensive country to visit. Youโ€™ll pay a pretty penny for accommodations and food, but youโ€™ll also get excellent value for your money.

We’ve spent more on a very ho-hum hotel in the center of Amsterdam than on our fabulously stylish apartment in Copenhagen. Neither stay was cheap, but the Copenhagen apartment was hands down the better deal in terms of comfort, location, and overall value. Check out my review.

This post is part of my Visiting Europe series, where I share my best tips for artsy and independent travelers exploring Europe’s most culturally rich destinations. You can find the full series here.



Denmark Highlights at a Glance

These highlights showcase why artsy and independent travel in Denmark is so rewarding, especially for travelers who prefer culture over crowds.


My Relationship to Denmark

On my trip to Europe in 1970 with my mom, Copenhagen was our favorite city. We loved the food and the shopping (so many cool souvenirs to buy!), and marveled at Europe’s first pedestrian street. Now such streets are commonplace, but back then, a street completely closed off to cars was a novelty.

Called Strรธget, Copenhagen’s main shopping street is still going strong and is, in fact, one of Europe’s longest pedestrian streets. It’s still fun to stroll.

Several decades later, I spent a week in Copenhagen blissfully sightseeing while my husband, Gregg Simpson, held an exhibition of his paintings at a gallery near Nyhavn, the gorgeous old harbor area where we also stayed.

Here are pictures of the exhibition:


Favorite Places in Denmark

The map below pinpoints some recommended places in Denmark.

If youโ€™re planning a trip to Denmark, consider adding these places to your itinerary. I suggest spending about a week in Copenhagen (with day trips, there’s a lot to see), and then traveling out to Roskilde to see the Viking Museum and to Odense to see Hans Christian Andersen’s home. If you’re traveling with children, consider a stop at Legoland.

Exploring Outside Copenhagen

All of the posts about Denmark on Artsy Traveler are about Copenhagen and the adjacent area. Here are a few other places you may want to explore if you’re traveling around Denmark:

Roskilde Viking Ship Museum

This place is a must-see for Viking fans! The museum is built around the five original Viking ships and is part of a global story about ships, people and things on voyages. Roskilde is close to Copenhagen and perfect for a day trip (covered by the Copenhagen Card). Here’s more information about what to see at the museum.

Hans Christian Andersen’s House in Odense

Odense is about a two-hour drive west from Copenhagen. Famed fairy tale author Hans Christian Andersen was born here and his legacy has become one of the city’s big attractions. The newly built H. C. Andersen House in the historic quarter, close to Mรธntergรฅrden and the Odeon Concert Hall, houses a children’s cultural center and an underground museum that intertwines with a surrounding magical garden. The little yellow corner house known as H. C. Andersen’s Childhood Home is part of the museum. Check the website for more information.

Legoland Billund Resort

And why not?! For the young and young-at-heart, Legoland is a great place to spend a day reveling in one of Denmark’s most famous exports. It’s a good three-hour drive from Copenhagen, too far for a day trip, but if you’re exploring the Danish countryside, you might want to put it on your list. Here’s the website.


Practical Tips for Artsy & Independent Travel in Denmark

Here’s where I cover some of the basics of visiting Denmark: when to visit, checking events, transportation (including how to get there), accommodations, and food.

When to Visit Denmark

First off, decide when you want to visit Denmark. If you are hoping to enjoy cultural delights such as operas, festivals, and music events, then visit between September and May.

I’ve visited Denmark in July and in September and apart from the occasional day of rain, the weather was perfect for touring. During the summer months, the days are long, but in the winter, they’re considerably shorter, with lots more rain and cold temperatures. Even in September, we needed jackets and hats.

Check Events and Exhibitions

Before you visit Denmark, check online for exhibitions and performances. Also be on the lookout for local festivals.

Check what concerts are on while you’re in Copenhagen. Good venues for classical music fans include the DR Koncerhuset and the Royal Danish Opera. Also check Concerts in Copenhagen where you can filter by music type.

Symphony hall in Copenhagen

We got tickets for a classical music concert at the DR Koncerthuset when we visited Copenhagen in 2022. The hall itself is fabulous and easily accessible by the Copenhagen Metro.

The concert was also first-rate and featured a piano concerto by Rachmaninoff. Spine-tingling!


Getting Around Denmark

Denmark is a compact country and easy to travel around by car or train. You’ll definitely want to have a car if you’re exploring the countryside, but you won’t need one in Copenhagen. We took local trains to visit sites around Copenhagen (see my post on Three Recommended Day Trips from Copenhagen) and parked at the airport.

Driving to Denmark

We entered and left Copenhagen by way of the ferry from Germany, but you can also drive. Both routes take about the same amount of time.

Choose from 11 ferry crossings from 16 ports to get to Denmark from Germany, Norway and Sweden. We were driving from Lรผbeck in Germany and caught the ferry from Puttgarden in Germany to Rodby in Denmark.

The ferry crossing took about 45 minutes. You can book in advance on the Direct Ferries website.

Parking in Copenhagen

Parking in downtown Copenhagen is very expensive, so park at the airport and take a taxi into the center of the city. We did that for our week-long stay, and the cost was extremely reasonable compared to parking in the city. Here’s the website to check rates and to book.

Public Transit

Public transit in and around Copenhagen is included on the Copenhagen Card. This card is a true bargain, which is not something I can say about every city discount card. I took three day trips outside the city and metros around the city, and never had to bother buying tickets (which are not particularly cheap).

Buy the Copenhagen Card

If you’re going to be in Copenhagen for longer than a day, consider purchasing a Copenhagen Card. You can buy it for varying lengths. I purchased the five-day pass and it was well worth the money. You’ll save time, you’ll definitely save money, and you’ll end up seeing a lot more of Copenhagen and the surrounding areas because just about every attraction you’d want to see is included.

Click the image below to purchase the Copenhagen Card.


Small-Group Tours

One of the most convenient ways to see some of the attractions such as Kronberg Castle and Fredericksberg Castle is to take a small-group tour from Copenhagen. Here’s an option that also includes Roskilde.

Powered by GetYourGuide


Where to Stay for an Arts-Focused Denmark Trip

On both my trips to Denmark, I stayed only in Copenhagen so I can’t speak to the rest of Denmark.

For our wonderful apartment, we paid about โ‚ฌ300 a night. You could possibly save money by staying on the outskirts of Copenhagen and taking transit into the center, but I don’t recommend doing so. In my experience, that strategy rarely works out. Often you end up in a dreary area and waste half your day commuting.

Spend the extra money to get a hotel or apartment near the center of the city. We stayed in Nyhavn, the old harbor area that has been beautifully renovated and is now a major tourist hub.

Click on the map below to find places to stay in Copenhagen and also check out my post.


Eating Well in Denmark: Smรธrrebrรธd!

The magic word in Denmark is smรธrrebrรธd. Take one piece of buttered dense, dark brown bread and top it with a dizzying array of cold cuts, cheese, veggies, fish…you name it. That’s smรธrrebrรธd and it is delicious.

Traditional toppings include pickled herrings (plain, spiced or curried), thinly sliced cheeses, hard-boiled eggs, pork-liver paste, cured and processed meats, smoked fish, shrimp and a whole lot more. You’ll usually find smรธrrebrรธd served at lunch in cafรฉs around Denmark. Often, a selection of smรธrrebrรธd will be presented at a counter. Walk up and make your choices, but don’t get too many at once! They are surprisingly filling.

And, of course, there are the famous Danish pastries. Go easy!

Selection of Smรธrrebrรธd, Danish open-faced sandwiches
Smรธrrebrรธd enjoyed at Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen
selection of danish pastries
Danish pastries

Why Denmark Belongs on Every Artsy Travelerโ€™s Itinerary

Here are three posts to help you plan your Denmark trip:

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Carol Cram
About Carol

Carol M. Cram writes novels inspired by the arts; runs Artsy Traveler, an arts-focused travel blog, and Art In Fiction, a curated database of 2,700+ novels inspired by the arts; and hosts The Art In Fiction Podcast. She has also authored 60+ textbooks on computer applications and taught at Capilano University for over two decades. Carol lives with her husband, artist Gregg Simpson, on beautiful Bowen Island near Vancouver, BC.

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